I need some help in trying to make up my mind on whether to visit Fez or Marrakech. We will arrive in Tangiers and by all accounts this not seem to be the place to spend 4 days.

Things that don't particularly interest us are bars, nightclubs, fancy restaurants. We may buy a thing or two but shopping will not be our focus either.

We do enjoy trying to get a feel of the local culture, what makes people tick, understand the history, appreciate the architecture, taste authentic local food (ideally in the places the Morrocans would frequent).

I am not fond of self-imposed tourist guides but I guess I'll find these in both places. I can speak intermediate French and my wife knows some Arabic so I would not be afraid of going off the beaten track.

Any advice?

You should be fine anywhere. I would do a couple days in Fez, then maybe head out near the desert in Ouarzazate. That would be pretty interesting. I would stay away from the cities since you will be targeted by anyone trying to sell something. It's hard as a tourist in North Africa to get to know the people.

Tangier is not bad. I guess that your tastes will best be fulfilled in Fez. Ouarzazate is not bad either. Marrakech may be too crowded and touristy for you, but a visit to Djemaa el Fnaa is a must.

I would highly recommend hiring a 4x4 and driving yourself. Morocco is one of the best countries in the world for overlanding.

Tangier: We stayed in the El Minzeh Hotel a couple of years ago and it was nice, even if a bit too much patina. There may be better hotels now.

Fez: The best hotel in Fez is the Sofitel Palais Jamai. Wonderful old town right behind the hotel.

Er-Rachidiya: Beautiful desert area. Two very nice hotels, rather desert camps. Forgot the names, but easy to find.

Ouarzazate: Maybe the Mercure is even better than the Berbere Palace, especially given the price difference.

If you have a 4x4 you should really drive to Ait Benhaddou and then over the Tizi n'Tichka mountain pass (not the asphalted one) to Marrakech. Fantastic!

Marrakech: I already loved the old La Mamounia Hotel and I guess the new renovation by Jacques Garcia will make it Top 5 in the world.

Agadir: Beach location. The Sofitel is rather young, hip, lounge-style therefore you may prefer the Palais des Roses.

Thanks for the advice.

Anyone stayed at Riad Fes Baraka? Tripadvisor reports seem quite glowing and location appears to be convenient.

Though both Fes and Marrakech are awesome places to visit, my suggestion (if you have to pick one) is to stick with Fes. Marrakech has a decided tourist feel to it.

Moroccans are generally warm people, though you will probably remain a tourist in their eyes. This won't be a problem, but it will be a barrier to getting a true feel for the culture. A good way to counter that is to park yourself in a cafe, enjoy a good waterpipe, and try to make friends.

The past couple of visits I have made to Fes, I stayed at the Riad Boujloud. Recommended.

Right. My experiences as a tourist and when I go on business are completely different in terms of how I am received by the locals. On business I am treated as an equal. As a tourist, something less so.

I will probably not make friends with what I say, but: "Do you dress in the same way when you are a tourist?"

I do (shirt with collar, jacket, even hankie - no tie of course).

In addition, I have the same spending pattern (good hotel, taxi, tips, etc.).

That's why I believe I don't get any difference in treatment as a "tourist traveller" compared to a "business traveller".

P.S.: That strategy works in particular in the more difficult parts of the world, such as African border crossings.

Dressing right is important of course, but there are other clues, subtle or not, that give away a tourist. Cameras, burnt red skin, gaggle of children in tow, and most important, your general bearing and attitude.

But as a business-person you are exposed to a set of locals who actually want to meet you and talk. And in Arabic cultures, one doesn't rush into business. You talk about lots of other things first. That is how I get to know a people and place much better than I could ever hope to as a tourist.

Both Fez and Marrakech are nice. Fez feels a bit more old / bazaar-like than Marrakech. Marrakech has zillions of palm trees in certain parts.

Outside of Fez, there are a few places you could go on a day trip: Volubilis (really nice Roman ruins), Mouley Iddriss (sp), and a city right door to Fez.