I don't think she implies that lounge food is better than Plane Food. More that in order to tempt the velvet-rope brigade out of their nice little sealed lounges and back into the main terminal where they'll rub shoulders with the plebs, the food really would need to be particularly special.
Personally, it's unlikely I'd use it. If I'm flying J/C I'd rather just enjoy the largish meal after take off. It probably won't be as good, but it's included in the ticket price so you might as well. In any case I'm unlikely to want to be in the airport long enough to enjoy a long meal - like most other frequent travellers I try and minimise the time I spend hanging around airports.
The only time when I could see myself using a place like this is if I was stuck in the airport with a good amount of time to kill (eg: a long delay), so I could sit down and enjoy it properly. The setting is key here for me though... if it feels separate from the main terminal with a lounge-like feel, where you can get away from the hustle and enjoy your food in a nice setting, that's good. If it's part of a large open-plan design where you sit eating whilst the masses wander past peering in and gawking, then no thanks.