I think he means heavily 'promoted' brands such as those featuring overly-skinny super-models who should be having a nutrient rich meal rather than alcohol and that other stuff Kate Moss allegedly enjoys.

The sort of brands included would be thosethat are generally found at airport duty free eg Moet, Veuve, Piper-Heidseick etc They are not bad products however being large volume production does mean that they are more likely to vary in consistency, and this is certainly my experience - as NVs are from multiple vintages, if you are drinking NV champagne on the tail-end of successive decent vintages the NV are likely to be stronger - don't believe all that hog-wash about NV Champagne being entirely consistent - champagne producers would like you to believe that.

Charles heidseick has a mis en cave date (somewhat confusing) on its NV to indicate the cellar release date, which allows you to ascertain which batch its from. So that if you like a release you know next time you are buying it from the same batch or not.