Wound up eating at Cool River, had their chipotle burger which was OK but not great (and USD 11.25 plus tax and tip, so USD 15 total). Nice decor, if you like the kind of hunting lodge that serves water with a wedge of lemon in the glass (and antlers on display). Their wine prices are absurdly high (Jordan cab for USD 118 a bottle, for example).
Went for a walk around terminal D after eating, and next time the Irish pub by D20 will be my choice ... the food smells good, and more importantly they have a dozen Irish and Belgian beers on tap.