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From Saveur Magazine Jan/Feb 2005
Downstairs at the Dublin Writers Museum is an extraordinary restaurant called Chapter One. The dining room, with its granite walls and sash windows, is understated and elegant, and Irish chef Ross Lewis cooks with real finesse. The influence of France may be felt in many of his dishes, but where in France would we encounter perfect plaice filets served on a bed of minted mushy peas, with a cylinder of mashed-together potato salad and aioli on the side, or smoked haddock with a rarebit crust? And where else would we find an Irish charcuterie assortment offering salami, chorizo, cured smoked lamb, cured venison loin - and Lewis's own game terrine and pig's foot sausage?