I brought a group of 12, with 3 beginners (first time ever) and 3 beginner-intermediated and 6 experienced skiers.
we can cover the entire place in morning easily and be mostly done with it.
the intermediated had fun over about 3 piste days and the beginners really stuck to the lifts.
your read of the map is correct, you need to use the gondola or ropeway to get up. The link lift gets you between the resorts but coming back is FLAT. Not fun for boarders but pretty doable with some skating.
its a nice place, I like it as a base with lots of restaurants and real shops if needed.
english ski lessons and hire are now readily available from multiple shops though need to be booked in advance nowadays/at peak times.