I tried one of these pizzerias a few days ago and had mixed feelings about it. The place in question was one of the three Coccuito branches in Milan, namely the one called Pizzeria Porta Venezia in via Lazzaro Spallanzoni, which is walkable in about 20 minutes from Stazione Centrale.
Entering the restaurant, which is rather soulless and of the metal and glass design style, I almost walked straight out again. The girl was so unfriendly it seemed to me that they didn't need any customers. However, I stuck it out and it got a bit better as we went on. The pizzas cost in the €12-15 range, which is expensive for a basic dish such as pizza IMO. Everything else came with a pretty price tag too and the beers were in the €5-6 range, again a bit steep (again, somebody has to pay for all the glass and metal, appearances being everything these days.). However, the pizzas were excellent, with fine ingredients and a quality base that for once didn't leave me burping and thinking I must have somehow ingested cement. The quality of cheese and tomato was far superior to anything you get in normal pizzerias. The only thing I didn't like was that there was rather a lot of base, which was puffed up around the edges of the pizza (I think it is a particular style of this pizza maker), which meant quite a lot of the pizza base was cut off and left lying on the plate. I won't be going back, but it was interesting. Maybe one of the two other branches of Cocciuto would be better?
That same night, we had a pizza again (I can't believe myself!) when we reached Domodossola, in the café Regina opposite the station and while it certainly wasn't the same quality, it more resembled what I expect a pizza to be: a nice thin base, good moist toppings and decent flavour, all for 5 Euros! I write all this while not being a fan of pizzas at all, because I can barely digest them, but I sure enjoy a good one when I get it!
I will be in Milan next Monday and maybe I will try Marghe, which is further down the list.