Monte Albán and Crafts Villages loop west and southwest
Monte Albán is 5 mi / 9 km west of Oaxaca on a mountain offering great views of Oaxaca and the valley. There’s a fair amount of walking, but it’s mostly on flat land and this is a “can’t miss” site. An early Mesoamerican city, Monte Albán was the “pre-eminent Zapotec socio-political and economic center for close to a thousand years”.
Link.
Monte Albán can be done as a half day tour, possibly best starting in the morning. There’s little shade, it can get warm in the dry season of rainy in the afternoon in the wet season.
Arrazola (San Antonio Arrazola), village of alebrijes (oll-eh-BREE-Hays), mythical colorful creatures of copal wood. See more in the video and in the description of San Martín Tilcajete, below.
Zaachilá 4 mi / 6 km from Oaxaca, has a noted archaeological site, the last preColombian Zapotec city. Some crafts, mostky clothing are sold here as well. “The last Monday of July, the Zaachila community meets in the archaeological site, better known as "el cerrito," to honor the Corn Goddess (Pitao Ko Shuub), in traditional
Laanii Roo Xten Daan Zaadxil.” Colorful dances make this a joyous and colorful tradition to attend.
Link Like many celebrations, late afternoons can get crowded and some who get intoxicated can be obnoxious.
San Bartolo Coyotepec, village of black pottery and hime / factory of famed potter and artisan
Doña Rosa Real Mateo de Nieto‘s family. The family’s black pottery (don’t be fooled by pottery blackened with shoe polish in some shops!) is renowned and inexpensive compared to other places you might find it. (I had the honor and pleasure of knowing Doña Rosa Real Mateo de Nieto and her son Don Valente Nieto when they lived, and it gratifies me the family tradition continues with her grandchildren and even the following generation.) see them here:
A worthwhile stop is the
Museo Estatal de Arte Popular de Oaxaca / Oaxaca State Museum of Popular Arts, which displays pottery art dating to preColombian Times, owned by renowned Potter Carlomagno Pedro Martínez makes black pottery creatures and figurines, also quite collectible.
San Martín Tilcajete, village of mythical alebrije creatures carved of wood. “The three towns most closely associated with alebrije production in Oaxaca - Arrazola and San Martín are covered on this day trip - have produced a number of notable artisans such as Manuel Jiménez, Jacobo Angeles, Martin Sandiego, Julia Fuentes and Miguel Santiago.” These artists’ alebrijes can be found in art museums and collections worldwide.
Ocotlán de Morelos is at the southern end of this route. Ocotlán is known for its famous potter Aguilar family, who make realistic clay impressions of people etc. Angel Aguilar also has a workshop; he is renowned for making knives, swords, machetes etc. with 16th century techniques. The tranquil Temple and Ex-convent of Santo Domingo de Guzmán, now a museum that includes work by local renowned late painter Rodolfo Morales.
From here it’s just under 25 mi / 40 km back to Oaxaca on Highway 175. If you’re interested in crafts and traditional arts you’ll easily take the day to do this trip.