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Old Aug 29, 2018 | 10:22 pm
  #15  
DanielW
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Dubai
Posts: 3,300

Jamal said that the pilgrims were walking ~600 kilometres over 15 days.


A father carrying his daughter aloft as they head west.


Our next stop was at Makli Necropolis in the town of Maklia near the city of Thatta. Makli has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1981.


Outside the tomb of Mirza Jani and Mirza Ghazi Baig.


Covering an area of more than 10 square kilometres, Makli is one of the world’s largest necropolises and is the final resting place of more than half a million people, including kings, queens, saints and scholars.

Miraz Baig was the last Tarkhan ruler of Thatta.


Despite being an Islamic tomb there were Swasitikas carved into the tomb walls.


The rule of Mirza Jani Baig Tarkhan came to an end when he was forced to submit to the invincible army of the great Mughal Emperor Akbar in 1591.


A verse from the Quran on the tomb mihrab.


The main cluster of monuments belonged to the Arghun, Tarkhan and Mughal dynasties. The rulers of these invading dynasties were Turko-Mongol people and brought northern, central and western Eurasian influences, such as delicate floral patterns and geometric designs to Makli.


The tomb of Baqi Baig Uzbek. The Uzbeks took refuge in Thatta after the defeat from Mughal Emperor Akhbar.


Looking up at the red and blue ceiling dome. Baqi Baig Uzbek died in 1640 and was known as a particular brutal ruler in Sindh.


Outside the very grand tomb of Isa Khan Hussain II, a magnificent 2 story building surrounded by a courtyard.


The beautiful and intricate building more closely resembled a palace rather than a tomb.


Isa Khan II was a governor of the area under Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan and died in 1644 at the ripe old age of 90.


The carvings on the Islamic tomb were especially interesting (top-left) and featured the Christian cross (top-right), Swasitikas (bottom-right) and the Star of David (bottom-left).


Jamal said that at the time adherence to and interpretation of Islam was less strict and hence the mixing of the different religious symbols in tomb carvings.

Some locals coming to pay their respects to some of the Sufi saints that are buried here.


A snake charmer plying his trade as we made our way back to the entrance.


And gingerly getting close to take a photo of the dancing cobra.


We then headed to the nearby city of Thatta to visit the Shah Jahan Mosque. It was outside of prayer time however and unfortunately the mosque was not open.


We walked to a nearby madrassa to try and find the Imam to get access to the mosque but he was unfortunately away in a nearby town and wouldn't be back for another hour.


Stopping at a goat market on our way to lunch.


Two gentlemen with a newly purchased lamb on the motorbike.


Jamal said people were buying young goats to fatten up before sacrifice in August at the start of Eid Al Adha.


A gentleman wearing a turban and a large bushy beard from the Pakistan province of Balochistan.


And a few ladies who were keen for a photo too.


For lunch we headed to a roadside restaurant on the outskirts of Thatta.


A very full truck parked just outside. Jamal said that it was loaded with wheat stalks which were relatively light.


And enjoying some fish, okra, rice and bread for lunch. The total cost including bottled water was 720 rupees ($6.20) so very reasonable for a meal for three.


Over lunch Jamal said that my flight at 6pm to Lahore on Pakistan International Airlines had been delayed to 8:30pm, and based on his experience, would likely be cancelled. To make matters worse, the airspace around Lahore was due to be closed tomorrow for an air display as part of Pakistan Day.

He had checked if any overnight sleeper train tickets for the ~18 hour journey were still available but they were unfortunately soldout. He said he was working on other options and promised me everything would work out.

We then headed back to Shah Jahan Mosque which was thankfully now open for the midday prayer.


Looking up at the intricate tiled ceiling. The mosque is considered to have the most elaborate display of tile work in South Asia.


The mosque was completed in 1659 in a mixture of Mughal, Safavid, Timurid architectural styles.


Built by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, the mosques design is influenced by Central Asian architecture, a reflection of Shah Jahan's campaigns near Samarkand in now present day Uzbekistan.


The Christian Cross visible in the details of the brickwork.


The mosque ceiling with one of the 93 domes.


The mosque has been on the UNESCO World Heritage tentative list since 1993.


The beautiful and slightly dizzying circles on the ceiling.


Men performing the Zuhr prayer after midday.


After the very interesting visit to the mosque we started the drive back to Karachi.

Following another very overloaded truck.


Stopping to refuel with CNG again. Jamal said he had finally been able to secure a seat on another airline, and I would hopefully make it to Lahore after all.


A bottle of red anaar (pomegranate) juice to rehydrate.


Buffalo.


At the entrance to Jinnah International Airport where they were using 'magic wand' fake bomb detectors to screen cars for explosives. I had seen the discredited devices at Kufa mosque during my trip to Iraq and was surprised to see them in use at a major international airport.


I said farewell to Salim while Jamal went to the Shaheen Air office to get a copy of my freshly purchased ticket.


And thanking Jamal for the very interesting last two days and for managing to pull off a minor miracle with the last minute flight booking to Lahore.


I then headed through to check in for my flight 40 minutes before the 5pm scheduled departure. The terminal was built in 1992 and I really liked the slightly-retro and stylish architecture.


Airside with my boarding pass. As Jamal had bought the ticket over the phone the spelling of my name wasn't 100% correct but luckily there were no issues.


Our Airbus A320 waiting at the gate.


The Flight Attendant about to give the safety demonstration. The plane was 100% full with not a spare seat to be seen.


Sandwich and cake served on the ~90 minute flight.


And some hot coffee.


Being met on arrival with my driver from the Best Western Hotel.


Making our way across the city. The most direct way to the hotel went through a military area prohibited to foreigners so we took a slightly indirect way instead. Interestingly the route chosen by Google Maps avoided the military area too.


Family of three.


And my room at the Best Western Hotel for the next two nights in Lahore.


After checking into the hotel I went out for a walk in search for something to eat for dinner.


And treating myself to a burger and fries at a street stall for 260 rupees ($2.20) at the end of day two.




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