Day 8.
Cornflakes, orange juice, bread, cheese and eggs for breakfast on the morning of our last full day in Iraq.
We went out to explore some of the sighs of Basra. At our first stop, the Basra old town. With the city's location on the
Shatt al-Arab and its many canals, Basra was once known as the "Venice of the East".
Outside a beautiful old Ottoman era building.
The building was built by a Jewish merchant around the start of the 20th century.
In 1911 there were an estimated
4000 Jews and perhaps 6000 Christians living in Basra.
Looking down on a neighbouring school.
A short walk away in the old town was a gallery filled with art by local artists.
As well as more classical pieces there was more contemporary art too.
A colourful piece with a woman playing a
ney
An interesting piece with a woman breaking bread in the
Mesopotamian Marshes.
And Charlie shaking hands with the gallery director after buying one of the paintings.
Inside the Union of Basrah Writers, where people would gather to recite and listen to poetry and other work.
No Parking.
Meeting with some members of the local old town preservation society. The gentlemen on the far right had spent many years living in Germany and chatted in fluent German with Andreas and Danny.
Posing for a group photo.
We then drove out to the outskirts of the city to the
Old Mosque of Basra. The mosque was the first to be built in Iraq following the Arab conquest in 636 AD. Only part of the minaret remains from the original mosque however.
A more modern mosque is now situated beside the old minaret.
After removing our shoes we ventured inside. On the left was a high wooden partition to separate men and women.
Copies of the Koran sitting on the shelf.
Prayer beads.
After the visit to the mosque we headed to
Basra Sports City Stadium.
Construction first started in July 2009 and it was completed four years later in October 2013.
The stadium is the home stadium of the Iraq national football team and held its first international match with a friendly against Jordan in June 2017, with Iraq winning 1 - 0.
With an official capacity of 65,227 there would definitely be a raucous atmosphere during a live football game!
Posing for a photo with the policeman escorting us for our visit. He was very friendly, played bass guitar in a local band and had a good chat with Charlie on Led Zeppelin and the Doors.
Kenya, Saudi Arabia, Qatar and Syria have since played games against Iraq in the stadium and it is perhaps a tentative sign that safety security in the country is approaching a relative level of normalcy.
After driving back into the Basra we went for an afternoon walk through the city centre.
Stopping for a bite to eat at a Falafel shop.
Stuffed into a pita bread with some spicy sauce.
A great way to fill the gap until dinner.
Crossing a pedestrian bridge lined with stalls over the canal.
Fresh fruit juice at Al-Maghaiz Market.
Colourful and rhinestone covered dresses for sale.
Militia supplies.
Some sweet
Basbousa for a sugar fix.
The late afternoon sun as we head towards the
Shatt al-Arab.
We then boarded a small motorboat for a cruise along the river.
Passing by the Basra fairground as we head upstream.
Shortly after setting off we came across the wreck of the
Al Mansur ('The Victor').
The
Al Mansur in better days. The 120-metre / 7,539 tonne superyacht was designed by Knud E Hansen in Denmark, built by the Wärtsila Shipyard in Finland and was delivered in 1983 for Saddam Hussein. The yacht had many features including a James-Bond-esque secret escape route descending down from the Presidential room into a
submarine launch pod (Photo source:
KnudEHansen.com).
The eight-deck-tall yacht was for a long time the
largest vessel in the Iraqi Navy, despite having no military use.
The boat was permanently staffed by 120 military crew pulled from the ranks of Saddam's personal bodyguard force, the Special Republican Guard, who worked 24-hour standby shifts in case the leader himself decided to pay a visit.
On March 27, 2003 during the US-led invasion two
Grumman F-14 Tomcats from the
USS Constellation attacked the ship.
The yacht
had already been hit by a Maverick missle shot by a S-3B Viking but was missed by two laser guided bombs released by a pair of F/A-18 Hornets.
The two F-14's successfully hit the ship multiple times, but as the bombs were designed with fuses intended for ground support, they exploded before hitting, resulting in severe damage but not being able to sink the ship.
The hull of the ship now lies on its side in the
Shatt al-Arab.
We then headed ~8 kilometres upstream before turning around and heading back downstream. Passing by the abandoned
Ibn Khaldoon, that was once
stormed by U.S. sailors in 1990 near Oman after it was chartered by women from several Arab countries, Italy, China, the United States and Japan to deliver aid to Iraq during the U.N. embargo before the first Gulf war.
Approaching the
Basra Breeze, sister ship of the
Al Mansur.
About to pass under a new Italian designed suspension bridge that opened recently in August 2017.
Looking over the Presidential Palaces Compound, where Raad jokingly said that Saddam could sometimes be seen fishing from.
Two British Army Lynx helicopters flying over the compound. The compound was the main base for the British during the Iraq war from 2003 until September 3rd, 2007 when they
retreated under the cover of darkness to their airport base and abandoned Basra city to the Shi'ite militias. (Photo by Ian Jones, Daily Telegraph).
We were eyed suspiciously by some militiamen as we cruised past snapping photo's. One of the palaces in the compound has recently been refurbished and is now home to the
Basra Museum and is being used to showcase the region's historical treasures.
Back onshore we headed to the same restaurant for dinner as the night before. More tasty mezze to start.
Half-chicken and chips for the main.
And walking past the brightly coloured ferris wheel at Basra fairground and back to our hotel at the end of day 8.
With the trip coming to a close, it was good to reflect on the memorable and fascinating sights and experiences we had enjoyed throughout, and to travel with a great and interesting group of people.