Spent New Years at Amansara and was very pleased with the experience. Was a bit worried initially how it would be after Sally's departure (big shoes to fill, surely). Astrid K is now GM here (well deserved) and she couldn't have been more accommodating. She cleared space for us so we could stay four nights over New Years and was the perfect host.
It would be perfectly natural for the staff to be a bit lost after the departure of their mentor, Sally, but I found their attitude and spirit perfectly fine. Such a magical place! Due to the influx of Chinese travelers, especially after building these two monstrosities of 700 room+ Sokha Hotels, it is becoming increasingly difficult for Amansara to live up to the expectations we all have. I feel incredibly fortunate to have been able to visit Siem Reap again, as I do believe it won't be like this for much longer. The numbers of (group) tourists are on the rise and the lovely temples are so crowded these days, especially in high season now. In our case we had to get up at 4.30 AM in the morning repeatedly for most of our stay, which meant that after 3 days we were so tired, we cancelled the outings and just went in the afternoon to less frequented areas -- which worked perfectly fine. Although on the flipside, the light and daily Khmer life in the early morning was just magical... seeing kids pass the gates of Angkor Thom in the morning while the fog lifts from the moats -- priceless! Usually early morning outings were followed by a second leisurely breakfast and a nap by the perfect private pool.
For New Years Eve, the hotel had organized one of their famed temple dinners in true Aman style... hundreds, if not thousands of candles illuminated the venue. Canapes and cocktails were offered while they had dancers, acrobats and more entertainment during dinner. Most of the team was on hand to look after every detail (Astrid, Mungo and Zsuzsa). The temple dinner was classic Aman, as standards were upheld perfectly and it was such an elegant affair... even in the middle of the jungle everyone was escorted everywhere, food intolerances and preferences were respected at all times and even cold and hot towels offered frequently. Very civilized affair. The pricey cost of the temple dinner (15,000 USD before taxes and service charge was split amongst everyone in attendance which brought it down to a very low price, considering what was on offer). Back at the hotel, we wrote down our wishes and floated them down the river before midnight came and Astrid offered Champagne, compliments of Amansara.
Couldn't have been happier about the whole experience -- was the right Aman at the right time. I have very high hopes for the resort and if they develop the leisure aspect a bit more (Astrid is working on it), I can see myself staying over and over again. The best thing about Sara is having a leisurely dinner in the dining room after a long day of temples and spa, served by the very kind souls there (still remembering Phanet). They are the true Amansara.
Some observations:
- There is no in-room dining menu currently in the suites. I am not sure if this is a new thing or not. I was brought a menu to order, without problem, but would have been nice to place one in the suite
- The private pool was just the right temperature, not too cold, not too warm
- All the details in the suite have been perfected, it is the best set-up I ever found at any Aman worldwide... so many little touches
- Cudos to Sally in this regard for handing over such a well-maintained and smooth machine... everything is so thought-through and just perfection
- Suite was refreshed several times throughout the day
- Loved the cuisine! While the menu is very limited, everything is so high quality and I ordered 'off-piste' several times without any problem. Fantastic chef.
Room for improvement:
- In-room dining trays were left outside the suite for extended periods of time. Not just an hour, but think breakfast tray still sitting in front of the suite when we returned from lunch... housekeeping covered the leftovers with the napkins, but why not take it away? Was a bit afraid it might start walking away...
- They need to build a gym at some point, especially if they want more leisure guests
- No housekeeping at all on the day of check-out, which is a bit problematic at 2,000 $ a night -- did not expect a full service, but would have been nice if they had set up the loungers for the private pool
- Everyone goes to bed early here due to the extreme schedule, but on the night of New Years Eve, a certain standard should be in place in terms of service. Everyone gathered by the pool to welcome the New Year, so we were having drinks there with friends and good conversation. After Astrid left around 00.30 am, everyone just vanished... which meant no service at all. Couldn't even get water, let alone a drink. This is probably the only night in the year this shouldn't happen! We had a good laugh how everyone disappeared right after Astrid. I accidentally left my key to the suite somewhere and it took the night shift person several calls to find someone to help.
- Spa is as good as ever, although I am worried as they are replacing Sodashi. We shall see what follows. Why replace the best products in the world with something lesser? Zsuzsa was very cryptic about it.
- I don't understand the tipping policy. There is a service charge, but you are still advised to tip guide and driver 30$ and 10$ each day respectively. The tipping I don't mind so much, but knowing myself I rarely have cash on me and it really adds a layer of complication to the stay that I am not used to (I know, I know). Just add the 40$ each day to the bill, but please don't let us deal with this every day. We spoke to other guests who just thought the same -- either do a service charge or don't. I do understand that guides and tour drivers are not directly employed by the hotel, but just simplify the organizational details of it. Tipping should not be part of the experience.
- General note: This stay was right after The Siam... and Amansara really struggled to keep up with it in terms of service... so is Sara bad? No... but it goes to show how excellent The Siam really is, especially now under Nick Downing. It is one in a million, easily. I was at a loss of words when I stayed this time around.
Was very happy and will likely visit Astrid and the team again to see how things are! Astrid is a very nice person and good fit for the property. Let me know if you have any questions.
