I'll agree with the assessments of Sonny Bryan's, but my understanding is that it used to be much better. I didn't eat at the original Inwood location until the late 90's, and was disappointed, but maybe it really was much better back in the 60's? In any case, the article called it "iconic", not "great", and was talking about "most of the twentieth century".

You can disagree with some of the specifics, but I do think the general points he's making are hard to dispute: that there's been a recent a statewide resurgence in places serving great BBQ, and that the new great places are much more likely to be found in high-population areas compared to decades past.