Last time I was in Burgundy (2009) the restaurant I dined in (fabulous meal though heavy in the Burgundian style) sold cleanskin Corton from their own vineyard for circa EUR 50 a bottle. Great quality, no doubt in my mind that it was genuine Corton, but not labeled and "sold out the back of a truck" . My impression was that this was typical, and how they keep the locals supplied with wine for a fraction of the world price, without compromising the export market prices.