Ericka

Introduction <img alt="" src="http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/members/ericka-albums-morocco-picture3105-dar-ahlam.jpg">Dar AhlamThe property normally books on an all-inclusive basis with meals, activities, massages, etc. Due to the short duration of our stay, we booked under the discovery rate which meant that we were paying for everything except breakfast, ala carte. It was nice to have this option but now that we have been to the hotel we would recommend at least a day or two under the all-inclusive plan since the local area was very special and we’re sure they put together some wonderful, private excursions.Dar Ahlam is located in Skoura, whose claim to fame is its river-fed oasis and its long line of Kasbahs in various states of repair (and disrepair). The Kasbahs here truly made us feel like we were in Morocco, as did the fact that the hotel was located within the heart of a village (ala Amandari). The sounds of the frogs, roosters, and the comical hee-haw of the donkey next door charmed us from the very beginning of our stay. This small Relais and Chateaux property was everything authentic, set in one of the very Kasbahs that made this area famous with adobe walls, antique local doors, a labyrinth of dark passageways, and narrow ironclad windows. There were secret nooks to lounge in, a small library, a large lovely pool and extensive formal gardens full of flowers and produce. Chabnam Suite Each of the rooms at Dar Ahlam was different. We stayed in the suite named Chabnam which had the only private, walled-in terrace in the house with room for two loungers and a billowy awning above. The suite had a living room with a wood-burning fireplace, a very large Moroccan-tiled bathroom / dressing area with a deep soaking tub and an open-concept shower, and a bedroom with the firmest mattress we have ever slept on. The narrow Kasbah windows and resulting darkness gave the room a comfortable, home-like feeling. Dining There was no menu at Dar Ahlam. We were simply asked at check-in if there were any foods we didn’t like. Also, there was no restaurant and no set meal times. Meals were served in private, unique locations throughout the property and the dinners in particular were “events”. On our first night they served us dinner in one of the candlelit three-story Kasbah towers. On our second night they served our dinner in front of the outdoor fireplace in view of dozens of lanterns. Breakfast and lunch were served by the pool or in the gardens and always well away from others. Food was mostly authentic Moroccan with a modern twist and was very good. Service The service here was excellent. Fabian, the manager, checked in with us a few times each day and seemed to always be making things happen. On the last day of our stay, he arranged complimentary massages for us so that we could experience the spa (which like every other room in the Kasbah was tucked away in a secret, lovely little nook). On our departure, the staff arranged a little snack basket free of charge, and our driver went out of his way for us to see the world heritage site, Ait Ben Haddou. We also have to applaud Dar Ahlam’s attention to detail including the homemade soaps, the delicious smelling almond milk shampoo and body lotion, the antique coffee pots and silverware, and the rose petals scattered across our bed and bathroom counters.&nbsp; Sahara Overnight On the ride back to the hotel, we stopped at a women’s cooperative for Berber carpets. We were able to learn a few things about wool, the natural dyes they use (indigo, saffron, etc.) and observe the knot-tying process before deciding we had to bring a carpet home.&nbsp;When the wind picked up and blew sand directly into our faces we understood the “real” desert. Days later, we were still finding sand in the folds of our ears. To be sure, this trip was for the truly adventurous. The thick clouds robbed us of any sort of sunset (yes, weather is a factor even in the desert). But the wind died down in time for us to have a romantic dinner under the stars. We lost count of the number of lanterns they lit for us that night…going from our tent to our dinner spot and 360 degrees along the dune stadium that surrounded our table. The silence was pretty amazing. The next morning we experienced a pleasant sunrise and inspected the tracks left by the tiny midnight marauders before we had breakfast atop one of the dunes. We took our last few pictures of the pink dunes and the scarab beetles, and headed back to Dar Ahlam.Our once white tent was more than a little sandy on the outside and the accommodations were pretty rustic (chemical toilet, no shower). But the candlelight, copper wash basin and draped-cotton room partitions were very romantic.&nbsp;Our main draw to Dar Ahlam was their Sahara dune encampment, which they refer to as El Khiam Ahlam. We left at approximately 11am with our driver and guide. Along the way, they arranged a romantic oasis picnic lunch on a quiet river bank under the shade of palm trees. The bottle of French wine made it even more special. We stopped later in the drive to observe the plentiful marine(!) fossils in the desert. Eventually, the bone-jarring rocky desert turned to dunes and we found ourselves at our private tent in the Sahara. There were approximately 5 staff members working there on our behalf. Pool <img alt="" src="http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/members/ericka-albums-morocco-picture3100-oasis-picnic-setting.jpg">Oasis picnic setting<img alt="" src="http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/members/ericka-albums-morocco-picture3103-details-details.jpg">Details, details<img alt="" src="http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/members/ericka-albums-morocco-picture3104-you-gotta-rub-me-right-way.jpg">You gotta rub me the right way<img alt="" src="http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/members/ericka-albums-morocco-picture3106-pool.jpg">Pool Location <img alt="" src="http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/members/ericka-albums-morocco-picture3101-ait-benhaddou.jpg">Ait Benhaddou<img alt="" src="http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/members/ericka-albums-morocco-picture3107-scarab-beetle.jpg">Scarab beetle<img alt="" src="http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/members/ericka-albums-morocco-picture3110-breakfast-dunes.jpg">Breakfast in the dunes<img alt="" src="http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/members/ericka-albums-morocco-picture3109-very-sandy-very-private.jpg">Very sandy, very private Opportunities for Improvement Also, we had booked and reconfirmed a guide for our desert adventure. As we were getting ready to depart, there was no guide there. Luckily Fabian was with us when we pointed it out. Without any word to there being a problem, he asked us to wait in the car. Not three minutes later, he returned with a smirk on his face and told us we would be picking up our guide en route. When we picked up our guide, he was packed for the overnight, spoke excellent English and turned out to be very good at his job. Fabian obviously had many of these guys on speed dial. Nice save.There was no phone in the room so if we wanted anything, we needed to go downstairs to the main lobby. In hindsight, this wasn’t so much a problem as it was a betrayal of our unnecessary addiction to modern conveniences. We could probably use the exercise.Our room’s bathroom was dark. How dark?....darker than an Aman bathroom. Luckily, we’re not too bothered by these things but someone more concerned with hair and makeup might be.&nbsp;