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Trip Report: Dar Ahlam & Amanjena (Morocco)

Trip Report: Dar Ahlam & Amanjena (Morocco)

Old Jun 11, 2011, 6:31 am
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Trip Report: Dar Ahlam & Amanjena (Morocco)

As Star Alliance fliers, we found there was no easy way to get to Morocco from the US. LH flew into CMN but it involved very long layovers. After exploring our options, this is what we ended up doing, but it’s not for the faint of heart. We flew biz class on a 747 and an A321. LH is one of the “angled-flat” holdouts on their long-haul product, but we found if we kept the seat in more of a recliner position, we were able to control the wedgie-effect. On LH’s new intra-Europe business class cabin, we weren’t as pleased. The refurbished A321s still used coach seats up front (they justify the added expense by blocking the middle seat) and the new seats were hard and thin with no additional leg room. This meant we could now better feel the knees of the person seated behind us.

For our long layovers, we opted for a dayroom at the onsite FRA Sheraton rather than the LH-discounted Kempinski. We found it was easier to walk the few steps to the hotel rather than call for the Kempinski shuttle. Our Sheraton room was fine, the property was good for catching up on sleep and it had very nice workout facilities. We also gained an appreciation for the new LH Welcome Lounge in FRA that biz passengers may use during morning transit. It wasn’t as glamorous as the F terminal, and we had to leave security and go through passport control to get to it, but we loved the hot breakfast, readily available showers and quiet room for napping.

Once in Morocco we had all of our transfers done by car. The Royal Air Maroc flight schedules weren’t convenient for us and the private plane/helicopter transfers were prohibitively expensive…probably due in part to the weak US dollar. As Americans, we are used to driving longer distances, so we settled for car rides of 2, 5, and even 7 hours. We booked all our drivers through our hotels and found their vehicles and English to be very pleasant. Most of the scenery was lovely….mountains, waterfalls, shepherds and their flocks, etc…and made the trips feel shorter.
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Old Jun 11, 2011, 6:31 am
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Hyatt Regency Casablanca

The Hyatt gathered us from the airport in a very nice Mercedes S-class for our first night in Morocco. They were definitely positioning themselves as the luxury hotel in Casablanca. Managers checked with us to make sure everything was going smoothly, handing out business cards, etc. The public areas and rooms were filled with lacquered wood, marble and granite, and the open concept lobby held a nice breakfast buffet in the morning that felt a bit like the hip “place to be seen”. Our standard king room had a large bathroom with a deep soaking tub and separate shower, but the carpet was stained and a bit worn. Since our stay was so short, we did not concern ourselves with the view, but we understand certain rooms look out toward the Great Hassan II Mosque.
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Old Jun 11, 2011, 6:33 am
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Dar Ahlam

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Dar Ahlam

Douar Oulad Cheik Ali Skoura, MA 00000

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Dar Ahlam

Dar Ahlam is located in Skoura, whose claim to fame is its river-fed oasis and its long line of Kasbahs in various states of repair (and disrepair). The Kasbahs here truly made us feel like we were in Morocco, as did the fact that the hotel was located within the heart of a village (ala Amandari). The sounds of the frogs, roosters, and the comical hee-haw of the donkey next door charmed us from the very beginning of our stay. This small Relais and Chateaux property was everything authentic, set in one of the very Kasbahs that made this area famous with adobe walls, antique local doors, a labyrinth of dark passageways, and narrow ironclad windows. There were secret nooks to lounge in, a small library, a large lovely pool and extensive formal gardens full of flowers and produce.

The property normally books on an all-inclusive basis with meals, activities, massages, etc. Due to the short duration of our stay, we booked under the discovery rate which meant that we were paying for everything except breakfast, ala carte. It was nice to have this option but now that we have been to the hotel we would recommend at least a day or two under the all-inclusive plan since the local area was very special and we’re sure they put together some wonderful, private excursions.

Dar Ahlam

Chabnam Suite

Each of the rooms at Dar Ahlam was different. We stayed in the suite named Chabnam which had the only private, walled-in terrace in the house with room for two loungers and a billowy awning above. The suite had a living room with a wood-burning fireplace, a very large Moroccan-tiled bathroom / dressing area with a deep soaking tub and an open-concept shower, and a bedroom with the firmest mattress we have ever slept on. The narrow Kasbah windows and resulting darkness gave the room a comfortable, home-like feeling.

Dining

There was no menu at Dar Ahlam. We were simply asked at check-in if there were any foods we didn’t like. Also, there was no restaurant and no set meal times. Meals were served in private, unique locations throughout the property and the dinners in particular were “events”. On our first night they served us dinner in one of the candlelit three-story Kasbah towers. On our second night they served our dinner in front of the outdoor fireplace in view of dozens of lanterns. Breakfast and lunch were served by the pool or in the gardens and always well away from others. Food was mostly authentic Moroccan with a modern twist and was very good.

Service

The service here was excellent. Fabian, the manager, checked in with us a few times each day and seemed to always be making things happen. On the last day of our stay, he arranged complimentary massages for us so that we could experience the spa (which like every other room in the Kasbah was tucked away in a secret, lovely little nook). On our departure, the staff arranged a little snack basket free of charge, and our driver went out of his way for us to see the world heritage site, Ait Ben Haddou. We also have to applaud Dar Ahlam’s attention to detail including the homemade soaps, the delicious smelling almond milk shampoo and body lotion, the antique coffee pots and silverware, and the rose petals scattered across our bed and bathroom counters. 

Sahara Overnight

Our main draw to Dar Ahlam was their Sahara dune encampment, which they refer to as El Khiam Ahlam. We left at approximately 11am with our driver and guide. Along the way, they arranged a romantic oasis picnic lunch on a quiet river bank under the shade of palm trees. The bottle of French wine made it even more special. We stopped later in the drive to observe the plentiful marine(!) fossils in the desert. Eventually, the bone-jarring rocky desert turned to dunes and we found ourselves at our private tent in the Sahara. There were approximately 5 staff members working there on our behalf.

Our once white tent was more than a little sandy on the outside and the accommodations were pretty rustic (chemical toilet, no shower). But the candlelight, copper wash basin and draped-cotton room partitions were very romantic. 

When the wind picked up and blew sand directly into our faces we understood the “real” desert. Days later, we were still finding sand in the folds of our ears. To be sure, this trip was for the truly adventurous. The thick clouds robbed us of any sort of sunset (yes, weather is a factor even in the desert). But the wind died down in time for us to have a romantic dinner under the stars. We lost count of the number of lanterns they lit for us that night…going from our tent to our dinner spot and 360 degrees along the dune stadium that surrounded our table. The silence was pretty amazing. The next morning we experienced a pleasant sunrise and inspected the tracks left by the tiny midnight marauders before we had breakfast atop one of the dunes. We took our last few pictures of the pink dunes and the scarab beetles, and headed back to Dar Ahlam.

On the ride back to the hotel, we stopped at a women’s cooperative for Berber carpets. We were able to learn a few things about wool, the natural dyes they use (indigo, saffron, etc.) and observe the knot-tying process before deciding we had to bring a carpet home. 

Pool

Pool

You gotta rub me the right way

Details, details

Oasis picnic setting

Location

Very sandy, very private

Breakfast in the dunes

Scarab beetle

Ait Benhaddou

Opportunities for Improvement

Our room’s bathroom was dark. How dark?....darker than an Aman bathroom. Luckily, we’re not too bothered by these things but someone more concerned with hair and makeup might be. 

There was no phone in the room so if we wanted anything, we needed to go downstairs to the main lobby. In hindsight, this wasn’t so much a problem as it was a betrayal of our unnecessary addiction to modern conveniences. We could probably use the exercise.

Also, we had booked and reconfirmed a guide for our desert adventure. As we were getting ready to depart, there was no guide there. Luckily Fabian was with us when we pointed it out. Without any word to there being a problem, he asked us to wait in the car. Not three minutes later, he returned with a smirk on his face and told us we would be picking up our guide en route. When we picked up our guide, he was packed for the overnight, spoke excellent English and turned out to be very good at his job. Fabian obviously had many of these guys on speed dial. Nice save.

Dar Ahlam

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Last edited by IBgkim; Nov 13, 2014 at 4:59 pm
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Old Jun 11, 2011, 6:35 am
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Amanjena

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Amanjena

Route de Ouarzazate Kilometer 12 Marrakesh, MA

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Amanjena

If Dar Ahlam was authentic, Amanjena was fantasy. This glamorous property was Ed Tuttle at his finest with dramatic larger than life spaces, several manmade bodies of water in a nod to “oasis”, Moorish arch after Moorish arch, green tiled roofs and various other green fish-scale tiles, and pink stucco walls made to look like adobe. Even the lanterns here were larger than life. In short, it was gorgeous. The resort was located in a wealthy golf course community about 20 minutes from Marrakesh. Being away from the medina allowed them to grow pretty olive, lemon and orange trees and attract lots of birds.

While we were there, we were assisted by Livio Ranza who introduced himself as the property’s Assistant Manager. The General Manager was Miguel De Susa whom we met on a few occasions, but we got the impression he was offsite more than he was on. He was from Portugal, so perhaps…well, we’d better not start any rumors. 

We booked a pavilion piscine under the aggressive summer oasis package which included a guaranteed upgrade (bassin to piscine) and three meals a day. 

Amanjena at night

Pavilion Piscine entrance

Pavilion Piscine

In advance of our stay, I had requested a pavilion piscine with consideration for privacy and had been assigned the unit closest to the main lobby. As it turns out, that was not the room we were taken to and I just assumed they had found more privacy for us elsewhere in the resort. More on that later. The suite itself was everything lovely. The central bedroom/sitting room had a very high domed ceiling and was accented by large electric lanterns. There was green tiled flooring throughout and a very large bathroom and dressing area with Moroccan green marble, Berber carpets, a deep soaking tub and a spacious separate shower. The faucets and other fixtures, considering their age, were in very good shape. The real heart of the suite though, was the plentiful outdoor space where a two-storied gazebo shaded a cushioned lounge area and small dining table. Separate from that, there was a small fountain, a generous Moorish arch-themed plunge pool, an umbrella and 4 lounge chairs, each with tidy folded towels and complimentary sun hats. This large courtyard was surrounded by an approximately 7-foot high wall…a true walled oasis.

Dining

Food at Amanjena was varied and delicious. Thanks to the lovely weather, dinners were served in front of the manmade lake with live local music every night. The menus included Moroccan, Mediterranean, Italian and Thai food. We opted to eat picnic-style on the outdoor padded bar loungers since we eat at tables often enough at home. The setting, with the musicians, elaborate lanterns and candlelight, felt very “1001 nights”. One evening, Livio (also a chef) was kind enough to cook a special meal for us of lobster risotto. We also often ordered room service to enjoy our outdoor courtyard, and each meal was perfection…nothing forgotten, beautiful presentation, and candles in the evening. For one nighttime meal we requested help with the fireplace and they sent the resident fire-starter. Blazing!  

Service

Service here was definitely up to Aman standard with Livio leading the charge. Many of the management staff seemed to make a point to check in on us…all very proactive and personal. The usual nightly gifts were there, along with a bouquet of dozens of pink roses, and we also enjoyed the welcome bottle of Moroccan red wine. The room had a bottomless supply of hazelnuts, almonds, and sweet local dates nearly the size of my fist. Before our departure, Livio prepared a package of Jena hats and shirts for us and included some argan oil as he had overheard me saying how much I enjoyed it. We wore some of our other Aman gear while there so Livio no doubt wanted us to add Amanjena to our wardrobe.  

Spa

For our first trip to the spa, we booked the Moroccan Bloom which was a traditional Moroccan hammam experience (gorgeous steam room, black soap, exfoliation, scented clay mask) followed by a one hour massage. The treatment left us baby soft and we enjoyed the massage so much we went back later in the week for more. Pierre, the spa manager, was especially attentive and spoke to us in depth before and after each treatment. He took steps to truly customize our experience. The fitness center was small but complete with very nice amenities like TVs at every station, cool water, towels, etc.

Pavilion Piscine courtyard and pool

Roses everywhere

Medina Tour

Of course, the medina was what we had really come to Marrakech for. We had researched the experience in advance and were surprised at the number of folks on tripadviser who felt harassed there. We learned a few basic terms like La Shukran (no thank you), kept a smile on our face and found that all of our interactions were pleasant ones. Of course, our guide might have helped! While in the souks, we purchased a pair of babouches (Moroccan slippers) and the shopkeeper invited us to take our picture with him in his shop which tells us we probably overpaid. LOL. Mr. Ericka purchased a museum quality dagger (there are expensive shops in the souks as well). We also visited the ancient merchant trading houses and the Jemaa El Fna square to see the traditional storytellers, dance troupes and crowded food stalls. It was my idea to visit the Majorelle Gardens, but in hindsight I wouldn’t recommend that stop unless someone is a fan of Yves Saint Laurent.

Juicy details

Spices in the souks

Village life

Parking lot

L’Arbaa Tighdouine

We wanted to spend at least one day exploring the Atlas Mountains and Amanjena recommended we have lunch with a Berber family in L’Arbaa Tighdouine. We were accompanied by two staff members who drove us the hour from Marrakech. At the base of the village, we were met by our host. Goods were transferred from the vehicle to the gentleman’s donkey and while they started up the hill to begin preparing lunch, we proceeded to the local country market. The produce there was larger and fresher than what we see in our American grocery stores. And the barber/dentists (one man, two jobs) were especially amusing. We were the only tourists in sight. After visiting the market, we hiked the 20 minutes up to our host’s home. Three generations of the family were there to give us a tour (with a translator) but of course the activity in the dirt-floored kitchen was the most interesting. We enjoyed beef and chicken tagines, couscous, homemade bread and a light fruit dessert prepared by Amanjena. The best part of the day was having our host teach us how to pour a proper Moroccan mint tea and erupting into laughter as we all took turns taking silly photos. The view from the house over the mountains was lovely and we were amazed to learn that the family has lived there for 525 years.  

Opportunities for Improvement

About a month before our stay, we contacted the property to arrange a one-way 2.5 hour CMN transfer. We were surprised to learn that we would be charged for this, since the last time we checked the website, these transfers were complimentary for people staying longer than three nights. It turns out the website had since been changed to say that CMN transfers would be charged for people booked with packages. To be fair, we planned this trip a year ahead, so who knows how long it had been since we looked at the website. We emailed back and forth with a sales manager (Miguel wasn’t available) trying to relay our disappointment in having to cough up the $450++ USD, but they informed us that due to the aggressive nature of our package there was no room for negotiation. Instead, they offered us a very late checkout which made us happy, but the situation left us wondering if there was such a thing as “too good of a deal”…where the resort doesn’t have the financial wiggle room to correct issues like this. We honestly expected them to just say “yes, the language on the website used to be different so we’ll give you the transfer for free”.

Our second issue was related to our lovely pavilion piscine. As mentioned earlier, we were not in the unit that was originally assigned to us based on our desire for privacy. We can’t say whether the original room would have been any better…we’re starting to suspect not…but it turns out we uncovered a design flaw in Mr. Tuttle’s masterpiece. The rooms were lined up very closely to one another with no true barriers for sound, making it very different from the traditional Aman freestanding bungalow concept. For our first few days, we listened to two small children really, really enjoy their pool. Management offered to either downgrade us to a quiet non-pool room on the other side of the resort, or speak to the family. We declined both offers. After all, they were just being happy kids. The family would be checking out soon enough and they had a right to enjoy their room.

A few days later, we came back to our room after an evening in the medina expecting to kick back and enjoy a room service dinner by the pool. It turns out there was a party going on next door…this time on the opposite side. Since the room’s sound system had no outdoor speakers, we have to assume the people brought out a portable boom box to play their loud rock music. Not local, ambient type of stuff. Rock. What followed was a flurry of managers (from Miguel on down) trying to find us an alternate pool room. Staff were literally at our door with valet carts ready to pack our bags, until Livio saved the day by asking our neighbors to “turn it down”. And just like that, it was over. We didn’t end up moving, but the staff graciously opened up the now vacant room on the other side of us just in case the noise started up again. 

As it relates to privacy, we have to assume Amanjena’s hands were tied because everyone booked the same upgrade to the pool pavilion, and those rooms happen to all be lined up together. To be clear, we loved Amanjena. We would go back there again and would definitely recommend it to others. But future guests may want to consider a quieter time to go, when not so many rooms are booked. Or perhaps spring for a maison (PinPin, did you hear any of your neighbors from your maison courtyard? We know not all of them are end units so sound may still carry).

Amanjena

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Last edited by IBgkim; Nov 13, 2014 at 5:03 pm
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Old Jun 11, 2011, 6:36 am
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Other Notes

In Morocco, there were a few etiquette “rules” we had to learn, like not taking someone’s photo without permission, or being prepared to tip for the privilege. We also learned that negotiating in Morocco is an art form. A gentleman at one of the Atlas Mountain shops we stopped at taught us how it was done. He told us, “I will say a price too high, and you will say a price too low.” After some light banter which included the phrases “how many camels for your wife” and “artisan” in reference to a very obvious chip in the piece of pottery we were buying, we walked away amused (and satisfied) customers.

There was also a lot of poverty in Morocco which ultimately trickled down to the animals. Our research turned up an organization called Spana. They are a UK-based operation with strong roots in Morocco that ensures donkeys, horses and mules are healthy and people are aware of the importance of animal welfare. They rightly believe if an animal falls sick or is injured, then the family it supports may go hungry and fall deeper into poverty. The many hardworking, non-complaining, sweet donkey faces we encountered on our trip reinforced that this was the right charity to donate to.

We would be remiss if we didn’t mention the time we spent with PinPin. She invited us to their Amanjena maison one night for drinks (and cigars). It was our first flyertalk meet-up and we enjoyed getting to know her friends and family, chatting about Amans and touring the lovely room. Many thanks to PinPin and friends for the kind hospitality!
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Old Jun 11, 2011, 10:10 am
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amazing as always. detailed logistics info is really helpful. ^

cigars speaking of which - considering zecha, do many aman sell them?
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Old Jun 11, 2011, 10:52 am
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Excellent Report!

A great trip report, as always. Thanks, Ericka.
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Old Jun 11, 2011, 10:55 am
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Thanks, Ericka, for this extremely detailed and helpful review.
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Old Jun 11, 2011, 10:57 am
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Wonderful read as always! Thank you. Questions? What was the temp. like during your stay and the difference from day to night time? What time was check in and check out at Amanjena ie the offer for a generous late check out? Since it seemed like everyone was staying in pool suites did you use the main pool at all, and about how many people did you see around the pool? How did you find the shop at the hotel? Did you spend anytime in the Library? Sorry for all the questions but thinking about July 4th weekend coming up and it seems to be working out for 4 nights at Amanjena, lucky me!
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Old Jun 11, 2011, 12:05 pm
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Thanks for the hotel reviews. I may try them out. Except for the Hyatt. I can tell you all the upscale hotels in Casa have the same level of service, but I prefer the Le Meridien Royal Mansour for its authenticity and above all the Hamman.

Also I would tell anyone to take AT (Air Maroc) over any Euro carrier. Take the Star Alliance to Europe if you must, but then transfer to AT in business class as it is better than anything you will get from LH, BA, AF, etc.

And I prefer driving myself in Morocco. It's quite easy as long as you be sure to obey the speed limits. The police are looking for any excuse to get a $10 bribe.
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Old Jun 11, 2011, 12:11 pm
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You provide such great and helpful details--thanks so much for this report. I will definitely need to give Amanjena a try (I'd worried that it might be tired and dated, but it certainly does not sound as if that's the case). And I'm relieved that you had a good experience at Dar Ahlam; with the right expectations regarding the rustic nature of the tents in the dunes, it can be a really magical experience, particularly all those dinners in and around the kasbah.
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Old Jun 11, 2011, 12:27 pm
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Originally Posted by Ericka
There was no phone in the room so if we wanted anything, we needed to go downstairs to the main lobby. In hindsight, this wasn’t so much a problem as it was a betrayal of our unnecessary addiction to modern conveniences. We could probably use the exercise.
I love this feature! I've wondered about this so many times when staying in a very nice authentic historic hotel in an equally historic room, which is very rudely interrupted by a phone and TV. Give me the modern lamp and plumbing for sure, but leave out the rest of the technology please! I go to a hotel like this to get away from modern life.
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Old Jun 11, 2011, 3:31 pm
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Thanks Ericka for such a detailed report....makes me want to go back again! You are quite adventurous which makes me look forward to your reports all the more.

Livio Ranza is fantastic and seems to be something of a roving manager at the moment having been at Sveti Stefan(Milocer) and Amangiri recently.IIRC he was the last manager at Bora Bora.
Miguel Guedes de Sousa previously managed Amanpulo and is indeed Portuguese so.....

Last edited by paul2; Jun 11, 2011 at 5:38 pm Reason: additional info.
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Old Jun 11, 2011, 8:06 pm
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Thanks for a wonderful report. We'll be at the Amanjena in just under a month, I can't wait.
How long is the drive from Casablanca to Dar Ahlam?
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Old Jun 12, 2011, 5:59 am
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Originally Posted by zigzag
Wonderful read as always! Thank you. Questions? What was the temp. like during your stay and the difference from day to night time? What time was check in and check out at Amanjena ie the offer for a generous late check out? Since it seemed like everyone was staying in pool suites did you use the main pool at all, and about how many people did you see around the pool? How did you find the shop at the hotel? Did you spend anytime in the Library? Sorry for all the questions but thinking about July 4th weekend coming up and it seems to be working out for 4 nights at Amanjena, lucky me!
At Jena, it was in the high 80s during the day and 70 at night. It will be hotter in July but I guess that's what the pools are for!
Check out was at 12 and we left at 8:30 but keep in mind that was a gift based on a separate issue.
We did not use the main pool but it was nice and big. There were always a handful of people there, mostly families.
The shop was great. Very large with items in many different price ranges.
We went to the library a few times to pick up and drop off books. There were computers to get online and a small sitting area upstairs. Look for the personal Mac photo book one family donated sharing their adventures at the resort....too cute!

Go for it!
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