Bali Trip Report - LONG (Couples, Friends or Honeymoon)
May 12, 2007, 2:55 pm
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Bali Trip Report - LONG (Couples, Friends or Honeymoon)
Bali
The true beauty of Bali is not only the landscape. It is in the expression of each visitor to this land.
Although I arrived a day earlier, the journey began just after 1:00pm the following day when an exhausted and incredibly beautiful woman exited customs to the heat, crowds and adventure. Her first words were a request; no, a demand for rest. Who am I to refuse . . .
Departing the airport, a friend had recommended a stop at Body Works in Seminyak to refresh while our villa is prepared. The facility features individual treatment rooms and refreshment bar. With a full range of treatments available, we selected a one hour massage performed Balinese style. Please feel free to request alternate forms of massage based on your preference. The massage was followed with a relaxing bath and opportunity to catch up on our absence. The experience was very enjoyable.
Bali is not the place for most to drive. For many reasons, it is recommended to hire a driver. Several are recommended on such travel sites as Trip Advisor or FlyerTalk. I choose to retain Dewa Marco. He is friendly, very knowledgeable, provides excellent service and well versed in English. Dewa can be reached by email: [email protected]
The first night I secured accommodations at The Ahimsa Beach Resort in Jimbaran Bay. The property features individual villa style accommodations with one and two bedroom units available. The previous day I toured the Ahimsa Estate property in Seminyak. Each has individual appeal and location. For nightlife, I prefer the Ahimsa Estate, located adjacent to the Oberoi and Ku De Ta. The Ahimsa Beach features a far peaceful appeal and excellent beach access.
The expression on Amelie’s face as she walked into our villa was priceless. “Daddy did Good” would be a common theme throughout the journey. The accommodation features a private plunge pool with cascading waterfall, outdoor living area and kitchen, air conditioned bedroom quarters; and, outdoor bathroom. A very private and intimate setting with modern design and traditional accents. Not long after our host concluded the brief tour we were in the pool.
We enjoyed dinner at Teba Café on Jimbaran Beach less than 2km from the hotel. In the evening, each restaurant places tables on the beach. We chose a waterside location and relaxed while the sun set and airplanes landed in the distance. The dinner routine involves heading to the kitchen, selecting live catch and negotiating the price. The staff will ask where you are staying and each property seems to have a separate menu and pricing. The lobster and king prawn arrive quickly and simply. The head, tail and just about everything remain, simply grilled and split open to enjoy the meat which was delicious. Great conversation and meal, this was a truly memorable and magnificent experience. Sleep comes quickly this evening.
The following morning I rise far too early, take a quick run along the beach, jump into the pool and relax to music as the sun rises. The staff arrives promptly at 8:30 to prepare breakfast in our villa which would feature Nasi Goering, immediately becoming a favorite. We discuss plans for the day and set sights to the north and Ubud.
The Ahimsa Beach was impressive and I consider it a good value in the villa segment. The staff is very courteous, knowledgeable and helpful. The experience is very much in line with your expectations. If you desire peace, tranquility and a modern appeal, the Ahimsa Beach is your destination. It is difficult to categorize the property as a hidden gem due to the high price point; but, a value within the mid-luxury villa segment.
Dewa arrived on-time and we began the pattern of being late. Jimbaran Bay is located south of the airport on the bottom “fin” of Bali. The island when viewed on a map has the look of a fish. We drive north through Denpasar, east to Sanur and north once again towards Ubud. Amelie is just awestruck at the beauty and diversity of this land. The architecture, traffic, people, scenery, noise, smells are all so alien and exciting. The street sales, motorcycles racing around with little regard to lane, direction or signal. The western stains on the land are left behind as we continue onward.
The day included a few temple stops and gazing into the distant rice fields. We enjoy an excellent lunch at 3 Monkeys in Ubud and followed by a journey to the Ubud Monkey Forest.
The sanctuary is a nice reprieve from the heat of the day and we enjoy the walk throughout the grounds. We explore several trails always in pursuit of something new and excellent photo opportunities. The monkeys were enjoyable with one just insistent on getting into Amelie’s pack. Harmless in large part, the local inhabitants will pursue bananas and many sweets which are available for purchase at the main entrance. It is recommended to stow loose items such as sunglasses, hats and keep packs and purses closed so you can enjoy the activity and scenery with less worry.
Monkey Forest Sanctuary - Officially Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana, the jungle area is home to three temples: The Pura Prajapati is used for cremation ceremony for the deceased; Holy Bathing Temple at the nearby stream; and, Pura Dalem Agung is a local temple for the village of Padangtegal. The Monkey Forest is inhabited by troupes of Balinese macaques.
Next we prepare for the Ubud market is where I affectionately refer to my beautiful companion as a cow. I reference her market entrance as, “the oblivious cow entering a sea of piranhas”. The Ubud Market is a consolidation of shops throughout a two floor building and courtyard. Just about any local handicraft can be acquired and negotiation is essential. The price will jump substantially and frenzy will ensue when a westerner approaches. I laughed out loud when I learn of my friend’s attempt at negotiation. I cannot imagine a greater affection for her at that moment when I see her smile. I am not quite sure if you depart the market or escape. In either context it is worth the experience.
The rule in Bali is that everything is negotiable. But, use common sense and decency. Understand and accept that you will pay more than a local would and set a reasonable standard. In essence, do not haggle over 10,000IDR. This represents a dollar and matters far more to the merchant. Take a moment to understand the scope of the situation and enjoy the vacation.
Following the market we drove through Ubud and passed along the artist district. En-route to our accommodations for the evening we stopped at a gallery which featured a restaurant upstairs for a tour and a snack. The accommodations for the evening were at Alam Shanti located just 15 minutes from central Ubud. Dark upon arrival we admired the traditional beauty of our room and once again sleep arrived quickly.
When the sun rose, the grounds of the Alam Shanti were amazing. We occupied the “Narmada” room which featured a large veranda and accommodations. The property offered an infinity style pool, café near the registration desk and a wonderful breakfast served on our veranda. We spent the morning touring the grounds and nearby fields, dodging bees the size of Boeings; and, racing to avoid being late again for Dewa, unsuccessfully.
The Alam Shanti truly represents a “hidden gem” and superior value. The property is spectacular and peaceful with incredible staff. In Ubud, I have stayed at Tegal Sari previously and would recommend strong consideration of each property.
Following discussion whether to head east or west, we decide west towards Tabanan, Negara and on to West Bali National Park for the evening. The day was spent driving with frequent stops for photo opportunities, playing on the black sand beaches outside Pekutatan and lunch in Negara. We never did find the restaurant recommended in the Lonely Planet and with both of us starving, we settle for what we found and the company of an odd and very entertaining fish.
Following lunch we continued north, stopping at a war memorial which commemorated the landing of forces on Bali in 1945 to liberate Bali from Dutch rule. We enjoyed a very nice tour of the monument and were soon on our way through West Bali National Park and beautiful mangrove forests. It was not long before we arrived at the Gawana Novus Resort.
The resort sits right on Menjangan Bay with outstanding views of the bay and mountains from all points. The property offers Suites of unique and traditional design providing fantastic views. We selected the Mangrove Suite which featured beautiful mangrove views with a huge outdoor bathroom with private soak tub. The Gawana Novus also presents a large infinity pool, full-service restaurant, boat dock, assistance with tours and activities; and, complimentary driver housing.
The evening we spent in the pool, sipping cocktails and watching a distant lightning storm followed by a light private supper on the dock overlooking the Bay. I enjoyed watching Amelie and her many attempts at catching the storm on film, swimming across the pool with camera held high above the water and her performance of drinking without hands. I do not mention her success rate of storm photos at risk of bodily harm.
The middle of the night we woke to the sound of something scratching. Not immune to strange sounds in our mutual experiences, we went on the hunt. We never did find the culprit; but, did rule out the fridge. The following morning was a peaceful and lazy start to the day. The shower was fantastic and located in the middle of a private courtyard. We stood on the deck and stared into the mangrove forest, had breakfast and set up our journey to Menjangan Island.
The hotel arranged a local fisherman, wooden boat and guide to escort us to Menjangan. The journey was approximately 30 minutes on calm seas and the views were fantastic. The sight of green everywhere with forests and mountains along the rim of the crescent shaped Bay. Upon arrival I almost fell into the water. Another continuing theme of slips, trips and falls which exhibit my grace. On the island we were alone to enjoy the exploration with our guide.
Menjangan Island – As a part of Bali Barat National Park, Menjangan Island or “Deer Island” is well known for its magnificent underwater world, beautiful coral reefs found nearby and the best site for fishing. Another attraction of the island nature reserve are protected deer. Located about 10 km offshore, Menjangan also features what is believed to be Bali’s oldest temple.
We continue our venture to the dive spots which are clear to the sea floor and return to the dock. The timing was excellent as we departed as three boats of divers arrived, briefly interrupting our solitude.
The ride back to the resort was a highlight of our stay. The seas were rough as we sailed into the wind. While our guide hid towards the dry back of the boat, we rode up front, soaked with each wave. Standing up and riding each crest like a rodeo bull, I snapped photos of Amelie getting soaked. I can only imagine our guide would think we were nuts.
We checked out and started out late. The day would be long as our destination is Amed on the Far East coast of Bali. We stopped at a Temple on the sea with beautiful dragon sculptures in the black stone. At the halfway point just prior to Lovina we stop at Brahmavihara Arama, a Buddhist Temple and Monastery. The area is very tourist friendly unlike several popular locations throughout Bali. The entire grounds and the Stupa Borobodur Kecil were fantastic with unrivaled views.
I don’t know if it showed; but, this was when I first thought that our time together; our time in this paradise would come to end soon.
The late start placed us in Amed deep into the evening. We are both anxious to exit the car and rest. The area is dotted with boutique accommodations along the coast and adjacent hills. We selected Life in Amed and the seaside two story Pardiso Villa. The property was small and quaint with a nice lounge area, pool and variety of accommodations. Our villa featured a guest bedroom, living area with outdoor shower on the lower level with a master suite upstairs offering beautiful seaside views. The hotel also offers complimentary driver housing. The value was excellent and well recommended for an off the grid style escape.
The morning we spent walking along the beach, realizing we are essentially within a fishing village. The boats head out to sea before sunrise and returned shortly after we woke. The families come to shore to welcome the days catch, prepare the lines and the children play wildly from the sails. The day is planned with many sites; and, Uluwatu for a sunset Kecak dance performance. We finally break the trend of being late and head out promptly.
Amelie learns courtesy of Lonely Planet that Amed is also well known for the salt produced in the region and vendors sell this roadside. We jump out and grab a 1kg bag to be shared and enjoyed back home with friends. The day will feature, in my opinion; the very best Bali has to offer.
Tirta Gangga Water Garden - Built by King of Karangasem in 1948. The architecture is Balinese and Chinese style. Tirta Gangga was originally the bathing and resting place for the king of Karangasem. A lovely maze of pools and fountains are surrounded by gardens, stone carvings and statues.
Besakih – The Mother Temple Besakih is situated on the slope of Gunung Agung (Mount Agung). It is the most revered location of Agama Hindu Dharma in Bali and considered the center of the Universe. The site features 35 shrines and halls dating back to pre-historical times and named after the dragon-god thought to have inhabited the area. It is also said to be the only casteless temple in Bali where any Balinese Hindu may come to worship.
We are dropped at the bottom parking lot of Besakih, which is encouraged to keep drivers out of trouble with the locals. Buyers beware as this is the gateway to the gauntlet. The Lonely Planet was valuable in sharing previous experiences and the tourist traps along the way. The first is the “ticket station” where you will be “assigned” a guide. Guides are not required and it will take some insistence that you do not wish a guide, unless you do. This being the case, it is essential to negotiate a fair price now and hold firm as this may change later. Next will be the “rides” up the hill and the “Temple Guards” who will offer to enter the individual temples with you to pray. Entrance is prohibited regardless of guide or guard and such a violation is subject to penalty. Finally you will be followed by people who will provide unsolicited information for expected payment and approached often to buy a plethora of local trinkets. Fortunately we traveled off-season which included less crowds and I can imagine less pressures. It is disappointing that such practice is permitted within the grounds of this spectacular sight.
Lake Batur - The widest lake in the world and set within a massive caldera. Mount Batur is an active volcano with a memorable eruption in 1917 which claimed thousands and destroyed hundreds or villages and temples. The volcano itself is quite small; but, the setting within the massive crater provides a magnificent beauty. The road along the crater wall en-route to temple Pura Ulun Danu offers a spectacular view of both the lake and volcano.
Be warned that the best vistas of Lake Batur and Mount Batur are also inhabited by merchants that will relentlessly sell you everything from postcards, trinkets, carvings, to sarongs, pencils, shirts and toys; etc. The strategy we employed was for Amelie to exit the car to take pictures and I would run interference with the sellers, often saying, “you talk to her I buy nothing”. This would provide her a moment of peace to enjoy the beauty while I engage the masses.
The Pura Ulun Temple is said to be the second most important temple in Balinese Hindu culture and quite different. It was relocated after the volcanic eruptions to the caldera rim and offers a wonderful view. Like our experience upon the drive, you will be approached relentlessly here as well; but, only outside of the Temple itself. Sarongs are free; but, someone will likely occupy the station covering the free box and renting you theirs. This is unfortunate as they also cover the official donation station which is used to assist in maintaining the site.
Tampaksiring – The region in central Bali just north of Ubud features the Tirta Empul temple constructed in 960 AD, ordered by the King Chandrabhaya Singha Warmadewa. The area is also home to the Indonesian Presidential Villa located on the western hillside of the temple. Tirta Empul has 3 courtyards and 30 shrines. The first courtyard is also a public bath which is energetic and vibrant. The third features a spectacular spring which rises into the pool with giant eels sliding through the underwater landscape. The water source of Tirta Empul is said in ancient lore to have resurrected soldiers fallen in a mythical battle. The water source is believed to be the source of life and prosperity.
Following our tour we stopped in Ubud to enjoy a late lunch in the open air environment of Nomad. We chose a tapas selection of twelve local specialties along with fruit juices topped off with a sweet Javanese treat of Dadar Gulung, and just devoured the meal. Time was a formidable adversary and we pointed south.
Pura Luhur Uluwatu & Kecak – The Kecak is a form of Balinese musical drama performed primarily by men. Also known as the Ramayana Monkey Chant it is performed by a circle of 100 or more performers wearing checked cloth around their waists, percussively chanting "cak", and throwing up their arms. The performance depicts a battle from the Ramayana where monkeys help Prince Rama fight the evil King Ravana.
Located an hour south of the airport and perched high upon the cliff face the scenery at Uluwatu is spectacular. With our late arrival we did not have the opportunity to enjoy the temple and most of the grounds. Just in time to view the cliff-side prior to the sunset when the distinctive sounds of the dance began.
The last evening we contemplated where we would stay. Not knowing when, or if we would see each other again. We decide after much laughter and comical miscommunication to return to the Ahimsa Beach.
The evening and following day we spent enjoying conversation and proximity to a valued friend. A dip in the pool, body surfing at the beach, another wonderful breakfast and excellent lunch at Kafe Warisan in Seminyak. The discussion of gifts, life as it passes for each of us, work - friends - family. Walking the grounds of the Bali Hyatt where my friend will enjoy her last evening. We had a brief meal at Tandjung Sari in Sanur which neither of us could enjoy.
We both know an un-pleasant theme comes near. The all too common and increasingly unwelcome words pass our lips . . . good bye . . .
What I remember most of the journey was the companionship and conversation; the diverse beauty of the landscape; spirit of the Balinese people; unique accommodations; and, the outstanding food.
Daddy did good : )
Time was not kind to our adventure. It was a grand endeavor within a limited schedule. I highly recommend the route we enjoyed; but, would strongly encourage the following minimum: one (1) night in Jimbaran to decompress from the flight, two (2) nights in Ubud, two (2) nights nearby Menjangan Island, one (1) night in Lovina, two (2) nights in either Amed or Candidasa; and, finally two (2) days in Seminyak before the journey home.
Should you have the luxury of planning your vacation to Bali during any time of the year, I strongly recommend mid-April. The weather is excellent and remains the low season before golden week. We enjoyed a very quiet, private vacation with no crowds at outstanding value.
The true beauty of Bali is not only the landscape. It is in the expression of each visitor to this land.
Although I arrived a day earlier, the journey began just after 1:00pm the following day when an exhausted and incredibly beautiful woman exited customs to the heat, crowds and adventure. Her first words were a request; no, a demand for rest. Who am I to refuse . . .
Departing the airport, a friend had recommended a stop at Body Works in Seminyak to refresh while our villa is prepared. The facility features individual treatment rooms and refreshment bar. With a full range of treatments available, we selected a one hour massage performed Balinese style. Please feel free to request alternate forms of massage based on your preference. The massage was followed with a relaxing bath and opportunity to catch up on our absence. The experience was very enjoyable.
Bali is not the place for most to drive. For many reasons, it is recommended to hire a driver. Several are recommended on such travel sites as Trip Advisor or FlyerTalk. I choose to retain Dewa Marco. He is friendly, very knowledgeable, provides excellent service and well versed in English. Dewa can be reached by email: [email protected]
The first night I secured accommodations at The Ahimsa Beach Resort in Jimbaran Bay. The property features individual villa style accommodations with one and two bedroom units available. The previous day I toured the Ahimsa Estate property in Seminyak. Each has individual appeal and location. For nightlife, I prefer the Ahimsa Estate, located adjacent to the Oberoi and Ku De Ta. The Ahimsa Beach features a far peaceful appeal and excellent beach access.
The expression on Amelie’s face as she walked into our villa was priceless. “Daddy did Good” would be a common theme throughout the journey. The accommodation features a private plunge pool with cascading waterfall, outdoor living area and kitchen, air conditioned bedroom quarters; and, outdoor bathroom. A very private and intimate setting with modern design and traditional accents. Not long after our host concluded the brief tour we were in the pool.
We enjoyed dinner at Teba Café on Jimbaran Beach less than 2km from the hotel. In the evening, each restaurant places tables on the beach. We chose a waterside location and relaxed while the sun set and airplanes landed in the distance. The dinner routine involves heading to the kitchen, selecting live catch and negotiating the price. The staff will ask where you are staying and each property seems to have a separate menu and pricing. The lobster and king prawn arrive quickly and simply. The head, tail and just about everything remain, simply grilled and split open to enjoy the meat which was delicious. Great conversation and meal, this was a truly memorable and magnificent experience. Sleep comes quickly this evening.
The following morning I rise far too early, take a quick run along the beach, jump into the pool and relax to music as the sun rises. The staff arrives promptly at 8:30 to prepare breakfast in our villa which would feature Nasi Goering, immediately becoming a favorite. We discuss plans for the day and set sights to the north and Ubud.
The Ahimsa Beach was impressive and I consider it a good value in the villa segment. The staff is very courteous, knowledgeable and helpful. The experience is very much in line with your expectations. If you desire peace, tranquility and a modern appeal, the Ahimsa Beach is your destination. It is difficult to categorize the property as a hidden gem due to the high price point; but, a value within the mid-luxury villa segment.
Dewa arrived on-time and we began the pattern of being late. Jimbaran Bay is located south of the airport on the bottom “fin” of Bali. The island when viewed on a map has the look of a fish. We drive north through Denpasar, east to Sanur and north once again towards Ubud. Amelie is just awestruck at the beauty and diversity of this land. The architecture, traffic, people, scenery, noise, smells are all so alien and exciting. The street sales, motorcycles racing around with little regard to lane, direction or signal. The western stains on the land are left behind as we continue onward.
The day included a few temple stops and gazing into the distant rice fields. We enjoy an excellent lunch at 3 Monkeys in Ubud and followed by a journey to the Ubud Monkey Forest.
The sanctuary is a nice reprieve from the heat of the day and we enjoy the walk throughout the grounds. We explore several trails always in pursuit of something new and excellent photo opportunities. The monkeys were enjoyable with one just insistent on getting into Amelie’s pack. Harmless in large part, the local inhabitants will pursue bananas and many sweets which are available for purchase at the main entrance. It is recommended to stow loose items such as sunglasses, hats and keep packs and purses closed so you can enjoy the activity and scenery with less worry.
Monkey Forest Sanctuary - Officially Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana, the jungle area is home to three temples: The Pura Prajapati is used for cremation ceremony for the deceased; Holy Bathing Temple at the nearby stream; and, Pura Dalem Agung is a local temple for the village of Padangtegal. The Monkey Forest is inhabited by troupes of Balinese macaques.
Next we prepare for the Ubud market is where I affectionately refer to my beautiful companion as a cow. I reference her market entrance as, “the oblivious cow entering a sea of piranhas”. The Ubud Market is a consolidation of shops throughout a two floor building and courtyard. Just about any local handicraft can be acquired and negotiation is essential. The price will jump substantially and frenzy will ensue when a westerner approaches. I laughed out loud when I learn of my friend’s attempt at negotiation. I cannot imagine a greater affection for her at that moment when I see her smile. I am not quite sure if you depart the market or escape. In either context it is worth the experience.
The rule in Bali is that everything is negotiable. But, use common sense and decency. Understand and accept that you will pay more than a local would and set a reasonable standard. In essence, do not haggle over 10,000IDR. This represents a dollar and matters far more to the merchant. Take a moment to understand the scope of the situation and enjoy the vacation.
Following the market we drove through Ubud and passed along the artist district. En-route to our accommodations for the evening we stopped at a gallery which featured a restaurant upstairs for a tour and a snack. The accommodations for the evening were at Alam Shanti located just 15 minutes from central Ubud. Dark upon arrival we admired the traditional beauty of our room and once again sleep arrived quickly.
When the sun rose, the grounds of the Alam Shanti were amazing. We occupied the “Narmada” room which featured a large veranda and accommodations. The property offered an infinity style pool, café near the registration desk and a wonderful breakfast served on our veranda. We spent the morning touring the grounds and nearby fields, dodging bees the size of Boeings; and, racing to avoid being late again for Dewa, unsuccessfully.
The Alam Shanti truly represents a “hidden gem” and superior value. The property is spectacular and peaceful with incredible staff. In Ubud, I have stayed at Tegal Sari previously and would recommend strong consideration of each property.
Following discussion whether to head east or west, we decide west towards Tabanan, Negara and on to West Bali National Park for the evening. The day was spent driving with frequent stops for photo opportunities, playing on the black sand beaches outside Pekutatan and lunch in Negara. We never did find the restaurant recommended in the Lonely Planet and with both of us starving, we settle for what we found and the company of an odd and very entertaining fish.
Following lunch we continued north, stopping at a war memorial which commemorated the landing of forces on Bali in 1945 to liberate Bali from Dutch rule. We enjoyed a very nice tour of the monument and were soon on our way through West Bali National Park and beautiful mangrove forests. It was not long before we arrived at the Gawana Novus Resort.
The resort sits right on Menjangan Bay with outstanding views of the bay and mountains from all points. The property offers Suites of unique and traditional design providing fantastic views. We selected the Mangrove Suite which featured beautiful mangrove views with a huge outdoor bathroom with private soak tub. The Gawana Novus also presents a large infinity pool, full-service restaurant, boat dock, assistance with tours and activities; and, complimentary driver housing.
The evening we spent in the pool, sipping cocktails and watching a distant lightning storm followed by a light private supper on the dock overlooking the Bay. I enjoyed watching Amelie and her many attempts at catching the storm on film, swimming across the pool with camera held high above the water and her performance of drinking without hands. I do not mention her success rate of storm photos at risk of bodily harm.
The middle of the night we woke to the sound of something scratching. Not immune to strange sounds in our mutual experiences, we went on the hunt. We never did find the culprit; but, did rule out the fridge. The following morning was a peaceful and lazy start to the day. The shower was fantastic and located in the middle of a private courtyard. We stood on the deck and stared into the mangrove forest, had breakfast and set up our journey to Menjangan Island.
The hotel arranged a local fisherman, wooden boat and guide to escort us to Menjangan. The journey was approximately 30 minutes on calm seas and the views were fantastic. The sight of green everywhere with forests and mountains along the rim of the crescent shaped Bay. Upon arrival I almost fell into the water. Another continuing theme of slips, trips and falls which exhibit my grace. On the island we were alone to enjoy the exploration with our guide.
Menjangan Island – As a part of Bali Barat National Park, Menjangan Island or “Deer Island” is well known for its magnificent underwater world, beautiful coral reefs found nearby and the best site for fishing. Another attraction of the island nature reserve are protected deer. Located about 10 km offshore, Menjangan also features what is believed to be Bali’s oldest temple.
We continue our venture to the dive spots which are clear to the sea floor and return to the dock. The timing was excellent as we departed as three boats of divers arrived, briefly interrupting our solitude.
The ride back to the resort was a highlight of our stay. The seas were rough as we sailed into the wind. While our guide hid towards the dry back of the boat, we rode up front, soaked with each wave. Standing up and riding each crest like a rodeo bull, I snapped photos of Amelie getting soaked. I can only imagine our guide would think we were nuts.
We checked out and started out late. The day would be long as our destination is Amed on the Far East coast of Bali. We stopped at a Temple on the sea with beautiful dragon sculptures in the black stone. At the halfway point just prior to Lovina we stop at Brahmavihara Arama, a Buddhist Temple and Monastery. The area is very tourist friendly unlike several popular locations throughout Bali. The entire grounds and the Stupa Borobodur Kecil were fantastic with unrivaled views.
I don’t know if it showed; but, this was when I first thought that our time together; our time in this paradise would come to end soon.
The late start placed us in Amed deep into the evening. We are both anxious to exit the car and rest. The area is dotted with boutique accommodations along the coast and adjacent hills. We selected Life in Amed and the seaside two story Pardiso Villa. The property was small and quaint with a nice lounge area, pool and variety of accommodations. Our villa featured a guest bedroom, living area with outdoor shower on the lower level with a master suite upstairs offering beautiful seaside views. The hotel also offers complimentary driver housing. The value was excellent and well recommended for an off the grid style escape.
The morning we spent walking along the beach, realizing we are essentially within a fishing village. The boats head out to sea before sunrise and returned shortly after we woke. The families come to shore to welcome the days catch, prepare the lines and the children play wildly from the sails. The day is planned with many sites; and, Uluwatu for a sunset Kecak dance performance. We finally break the trend of being late and head out promptly.
Amelie learns courtesy of Lonely Planet that Amed is also well known for the salt produced in the region and vendors sell this roadside. We jump out and grab a 1kg bag to be shared and enjoyed back home with friends. The day will feature, in my opinion; the very best Bali has to offer.
Tirta Gangga Water Garden - Built by King of Karangasem in 1948. The architecture is Balinese and Chinese style. Tirta Gangga was originally the bathing and resting place for the king of Karangasem. A lovely maze of pools and fountains are surrounded by gardens, stone carvings and statues.
Besakih – The Mother Temple Besakih is situated on the slope of Gunung Agung (Mount Agung). It is the most revered location of Agama Hindu Dharma in Bali and considered the center of the Universe. The site features 35 shrines and halls dating back to pre-historical times and named after the dragon-god thought to have inhabited the area. It is also said to be the only casteless temple in Bali where any Balinese Hindu may come to worship.
We are dropped at the bottom parking lot of Besakih, which is encouraged to keep drivers out of trouble with the locals. Buyers beware as this is the gateway to the gauntlet. The Lonely Planet was valuable in sharing previous experiences and the tourist traps along the way. The first is the “ticket station” where you will be “assigned” a guide. Guides are not required and it will take some insistence that you do not wish a guide, unless you do. This being the case, it is essential to negotiate a fair price now and hold firm as this may change later. Next will be the “rides” up the hill and the “Temple Guards” who will offer to enter the individual temples with you to pray. Entrance is prohibited regardless of guide or guard and such a violation is subject to penalty. Finally you will be followed by people who will provide unsolicited information for expected payment and approached often to buy a plethora of local trinkets. Fortunately we traveled off-season which included less crowds and I can imagine less pressures. It is disappointing that such practice is permitted within the grounds of this spectacular sight.
Lake Batur - The widest lake in the world and set within a massive caldera. Mount Batur is an active volcano with a memorable eruption in 1917 which claimed thousands and destroyed hundreds or villages and temples. The volcano itself is quite small; but, the setting within the massive crater provides a magnificent beauty. The road along the crater wall en-route to temple Pura Ulun Danu offers a spectacular view of both the lake and volcano.
Be warned that the best vistas of Lake Batur and Mount Batur are also inhabited by merchants that will relentlessly sell you everything from postcards, trinkets, carvings, to sarongs, pencils, shirts and toys; etc. The strategy we employed was for Amelie to exit the car to take pictures and I would run interference with the sellers, often saying, “you talk to her I buy nothing”. This would provide her a moment of peace to enjoy the beauty while I engage the masses.
The Pura Ulun Temple is said to be the second most important temple in Balinese Hindu culture and quite different. It was relocated after the volcanic eruptions to the caldera rim and offers a wonderful view. Like our experience upon the drive, you will be approached relentlessly here as well; but, only outside of the Temple itself. Sarongs are free; but, someone will likely occupy the station covering the free box and renting you theirs. This is unfortunate as they also cover the official donation station which is used to assist in maintaining the site.
Tampaksiring – The region in central Bali just north of Ubud features the Tirta Empul temple constructed in 960 AD, ordered by the King Chandrabhaya Singha Warmadewa. The area is also home to the Indonesian Presidential Villa located on the western hillside of the temple. Tirta Empul has 3 courtyards and 30 shrines. The first courtyard is also a public bath which is energetic and vibrant. The third features a spectacular spring which rises into the pool with giant eels sliding through the underwater landscape. The water source of Tirta Empul is said in ancient lore to have resurrected soldiers fallen in a mythical battle. The water source is believed to be the source of life and prosperity.
Following our tour we stopped in Ubud to enjoy a late lunch in the open air environment of Nomad. We chose a tapas selection of twelve local specialties along with fruit juices topped off with a sweet Javanese treat of Dadar Gulung, and just devoured the meal. Time was a formidable adversary and we pointed south.
Pura Luhur Uluwatu & Kecak – The Kecak is a form of Balinese musical drama performed primarily by men. Also known as the Ramayana Monkey Chant it is performed by a circle of 100 or more performers wearing checked cloth around their waists, percussively chanting "cak", and throwing up their arms. The performance depicts a battle from the Ramayana where monkeys help Prince Rama fight the evil King Ravana.
Located an hour south of the airport and perched high upon the cliff face the scenery at Uluwatu is spectacular. With our late arrival we did not have the opportunity to enjoy the temple and most of the grounds. Just in time to view the cliff-side prior to the sunset when the distinctive sounds of the dance began.
The last evening we contemplated where we would stay. Not knowing when, or if we would see each other again. We decide after much laughter and comical miscommunication to return to the Ahimsa Beach.
The evening and following day we spent enjoying conversation and proximity to a valued friend. A dip in the pool, body surfing at the beach, another wonderful breakfast and excellent lunch at Kafe Warisan in Seminyak. The discussion of gifts, life as it passes for each of us, work - friends - family. Walking the grounds of the Bali Hyatt where my friend will enjoy her last evening. We had a brief meal at Tandjung Sari in Sanur which neither of us could enjoy.
We both know an un-pleasant theme comes near. The all too common and increasingly unwelcome words pass our lips . . . good bye . . .
What I remember most of the journey was the companionship and conversation; the diverse beauty of the landscape; spirit of the Balinese people; unique accommodations; and, the outstanding food.
Daddy did good : )
Time was not kind to our adventure. It was a grand endeavor within a limited schedule. I highly recommend the route we enjoyed; but, would strongly encourage the following minimum: one (1) night in Jimbaran to decompress from the flight, two (2) nights in Ubud, two (2) nights nearby Menjangan Island, one (1) night in Lovina, two (2) nights in either Amed or Candidasa; and, finally two (2) days in Seminyak before the journey home.
Should you have the luxury of planning your vacation to Bali during any time of the year, I strongly recommend mid-April. The weather is excellent and remains the low season before golden week. We enjoyed a very quiet, private vacation with no crowds at outstanding value.
May 13, 2007, 8:26 pm
#2
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: PEK
Posts: 102
Great report!
My friend and I just came back from Bali two weeks ago. We also visited the same spots you did, I really liked Amed, it'll only be a matter of time before the secret gets out. We also stayed in Jimbaran but at the InterContinental. Its good to see people actually seeing Bali for what it is instead of so many tourists sticking to just Kuta and Nusa Dua.
My friend and I just came back from Bali two weeks ago. We also visited the same spots you did, I really liked Amed, it'll only be a matter of time before the secret gets out. We also stayed in Jimbaran but at the InterContinental. Its good to see people actually seeing Bali for what it is instead of so many tourists sticking to just Kuta and Nusa Dua.
Mar 23, 2009, 8:25 pm
#3
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Join Date: Nov 2000
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We are dropped at the bottom parking lot of Besakih, which is encouraged to keep drivers out of trouble with the locals. Buyers beware as this is the gateway to the gauntlet. The Lonely Planet was valuable in sharing previous experiences and the tourist traps along the way. The first is the “ticket station” where you will be “assigned” a guide. Guides are not required and it will take some insistence that you do not wish a guide, unless you do. This being the case, it is essential to negotiate a fair price now and hold firm as this may change later. Next will be the “rides” up the hill and the “Temple Guards” who will offer to enter the individual temples with you to pray. Entrance is prohibited regardless of guide or guard and such a violation is subject to penalty. Finally you will be followed by people who will provide unsolicited information for expected payment and approached often to buy a plethora of local trinkets. Fortunately we traveled off-season which included less crowds and I can imagine less pressures. It is disappointing that such practice is permitted within the grounds of this spectacular sight.
Be warned that the best vistas of Lake Batur and Mount Batur are also inhabited by merchants that will relentlessly sell you everything from postcards, trinkets, carvings, to sarongs, pencils, shirts and toys; etc. The strategy we employed was for Amelie to exit the car to take pictures and I would run interference with the sellers, often saying, “you talk to her I buy nothing”. This would provide her a moment of peace to enjoy the beauty while I engage the masses.
Be warned that the best vistas of Lake Batur and Mount Batur are also inhabited by merchants that will relentlessly sell you everything from postcards, trinkets, carvings, to sarongs, pencils, shirts and toys; etc. The strategy we employed was for Amelie to exit the car to take pictures and I would run interference with the sellers, often saying, “you talk to her I buy nothing”. This would provide her a moment of peace to enjoy the beauty while I engage the masses.
Any physical pushback from the "guards"?
Should you have the luxury of planning your vacation to Bali during any time of the year, I strongly recommend mid-April. The weather is excellent and remains the low season before golden week. We enjoyed a very quiet, private vacation with no crowds at outstanding value.
Also, thanks for your feedback on the Bali dining thread: http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/asia/...meal-bali.html
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Last edited by Sweet Willie; Mar 26, 2009 at 3:42 pm
Mar 25, 2009, 10:11 pm
#4
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: TSV, Australia
Posts: 2,401
[QUOTE=mjcasta;7726699]Bali
The rule in Bali is that everything is negotiable. But, use common sense and decency. Understand and accept that you will pay more than a local would and set a reasonable standard. In essence, do not haggle over 10,000IDR. This represents a dollar and matters far more to the merchant. Take a moment to understand the scope of the situation and enjoy the vacation.
QUOTE]
Intresting how staying for a couple of days in villa allows you to quote 'rules' about Indonesia.
It's also interesting how many tourists seem to take some sort of 'white man dispensing bounty' with their money in developing countries. You make think the locals think you're 'generous' when you don't haggle over Rp. 10,000 but they really just think you're a fool.
The rule in Bali is that everything is negotiable. But, use common sense and decency. Understand and accept that you will pay more than a local would and set a reasonable standard. In essence, do not haggle over 10,000IDR. This represents a dollar and matters far more to the merchant. Take a moment to understand the scope of the situation and enjoy the vacation.
QUOTE]
Intresting how staying for a couple of days in villa allows you to quote 'rules' about Indonesia.
It's also interesting how many tourists seem to take some sort of 'white man dispensing bounty' with their money in developing countries. You make think the locals think you're 'generous' when you don't haggle over Rp. 10,000 but they really just think you're a fool.