YVR Cockroach

Day 15 – 22 March east North Pacific ocean ~970 km due west of Santa Rosa, California, USA

Mostly clear morning. Maybe the cleaning was saved until the chance of rain was negligible. Seas looked calm with no white caps but you could see swells coming from two directions, astern and quarter astern. Ship is still rolling. Course has been constantly changed to a more southeasterly heading per the course plot so we don’t see sunrise from our cabin anymore. It’s been blocked by the 7-high container stack.

You also know you may be close to land with by the sight of floating debris. We saw a bright safety lime green object which appeared to be a life vest but moved too far too fast (still steaming away at over 21 knots). Noticed that speed has been reduced to ~19 knots at around 1100. The Officers probably calculated what time they have to enter the shipping lane (probably not for another 36 hours) and are slowing down now they’re surer of arrival time.

Lunch was chicken noodle soup, followed by baked chicken with steam riced and broccoli with watermelon. If nothing else, the food is healthy. Portions controlled and you have to ask for more.

A ship passed us going the other direction today – the first we’ve seen since the MOL ship pass us a week or so earlier. I ran into one of the 2nd Officers and remarked about the sighting. He noted that he hadn’t seen another ship in a week either, and he’s on watch 6 hours a day. We’re back in shipping lanes as we saw a container ship headed the other way and then another on the horizon, the Maersk Alfir<> seemingly on a convergent path with us probably also headed to Long Beach.

Whenever we walk pass crew cabins, we noticed that all have blinds tightly closed. No one’s ever out on deck except if they’re working or at the BBQ. We remember a steward on a cruise ship telling us how much he relished going to the caged-in aft moorage deck for a breath of some fresh air. This crew have all the deck space at their disposal and opening windows in their cabins but they all like to be inside and in the dark. The Austrian thinks they’re a bunch of vampires.

Dinner was roast pork leg with a Greek salad (minus the olives and feta) and mash potatoes. Crêpes for dessert. The cook can make them very nicely. Nutella is much coveted on these days.

Went to the bridge to have a look at what it looks after sundown on a near full moon night. No glow of cathode rays these days. Just backlit LCD screens. Having a look at the chart, I noticed it ended at the ECA. That’s when the ship starts to burn diesel.

The OOW asked us if they could get us a taxi at Long Beach. They can’t wait to get rid of us.

There’s building excitement as there’s a big change with ½ the Romanian rotating off. The 2 Romanian 2nd Officers, Reefer and Electrical Cadet are off the day after we arrive. The alternates for the Captain and Chief Engineer rotate on at Long Beach and they’ll rotate off in Oakland. The two senior positions seem to require a short overlap.

The beat of the main engine turning at a slower rate is actually more noticeable.

YVR Cockroach

Day 16 – 23 March N 33.6 W 124.1 ~530 Km W of Los Angeles

It was one of the calmest nights last night. Ship isn’t rolling more than 3-4 degrees now. Woke up to find speed cut to just below 15 knots as we prepare to enter the approach lane at the appointed time. We had expected to see a lot of ships in line but really we are the rim of a funnel, if even, and won’t see more ships until late in the evening. Expect to be south of the California Channel Islands after 1900.

The ship should be burning diesel by now (required within 200 miles of the U.S. coastline) and the smoke is much less brown, almost white.

The pantry food is running low. Last of the bacon yesterday. No nice pre-arrival meal. Finally substitute for the salad red peppers; green peppers.
Started packing yesterday and finished up today after the last load of laundry. No leaving the bags outside in the evening as you have to haul your own off. It was nice to have unpacked as it is the longest we’ve stayed in any place since the end of September. It’s also a home for the homeless so part of the expense is actually accommodation.

13 consecutive whole days at sea are coming to an end, 16 since last stepping ashore. I found it quite relaxing, unconnected and undistracted and time certainly didn’t drag. Others may think differently.

Calm seas so we went up to ask the OOW if we could go out on deck and he granted us permission, asking the Bosun to accompany us. Also noted a passing car carrier on the horizon, the Viking Sea (not a cruise ship), bound for Yokohama to get next load of Japanese imports.

The ship is even more impressive and the sheer immensity when you go out on deck and walk under containers – the containers on the side are stacked above the walkway. Containers that look so small viewed from above are massive; one just forgets. One can also fathom the strength required hence the weight of hold covers when you see the containers stacked on them (up to 64 TEU each with half a stack of 16 for the ones on the side).



The "promenade" deck. What you above are the bottoms of containers stacked up to 8 high above



And what it's like without containers stacked above. On the left is one of the 32 tonne hold hatches

The bow is the primary moorage center with 2 huge sea anchors, a smaller one for use in canal transits, and all sorts of moorage ropes and pulleys. An officer and 3 seamen are required so someone will be on duty early morning tomorrow. The ship still has a bell for communications – purely symbolic as the bridge can’t hear it ring through 16 containers and 900’. There may be some crew members who have never seen it. A second is at the back (the one where you often see cruise ship workers languishing for fresh air while in port), necessary for tying up in port but not for anchorage. It is open to the sky if containers are not stacked above it. It was here that the Austrian found the basketball hoop that she knew had to exist.

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The ship's bell. I am sure there are some officers and crew who have never seen it



Moorage deck and the basketball hoop. Wicked rebounds possible if there are container stacked above


I also had a chance to pace the accommodation ladder and estimated its length at 26-27m or 85-89’. A 40-45 degree slope would put the height to dock at 54-62’

The ship came to a complete halt with no activity such as lowering a rescue boat or any traffic around. As it started to founder in the slight swells, we became curious and found a passing officer who told us it was a pre-U.S. water entry test. I went down to the gym to find some of the seamen who told me it was a steering gear failure drill which is also one of the ship’s alarms (it wasn’t sounded). It would seem the crew will have to manually control the ship from the steering gear room - hopefully using cables/chains/pulleys and not a 100’ tiller).

I have been thinking for two weeks how the engine is started and how it runs. With no starter motor (which would have to be as big as a car) and no intake valve, I have been trying to understand how the engine works. My last chance so I asked the Chief and 2nd Engineers as they left the dinner table. The engine is started by blowing compressed air into the cylinders. There’s the two big tanks which will give 12-15 starts before requiring refilling. The engine is two stroke. The cylinder liner is lined with ports at the bottom which allows supercharged air to be blown in and the exhaust is vented through the sole valve sometime inbetween. Mystery solved.

Nice sunset and spied a ship following (and then passing) us – an Evergreen ship. Another was seen silhouetted against the setting sun but couldn’t been seen after. Just before dinner, I saw a wave-skimming bird, a sooty dark one so perhaps an albatross. Nice moonrise just after sunset too. The moon was red as it rose and then became clear bright. The smog of Los Angeles must be showing.

YVR Cockroach

Day 17 24 March Long Beach Pier J

Woke up just before 0600 to see the ship being towed/pushed back into dock by the BNSF yard. Internodal transportation at its best.



Morning at Long Beach - unloading has begun

We were supposed to clear U.S. entry after the crew did. Apparently the U.S. is one of the few places that demands a routine inspection of every single person. They called us down a bit early when some 10 crew members had yet to clear. Crew were made to stand out in the hallway until called while officers and passengers could use the lounge to fill in forms. Crew cleared first then departing officers. Filipinos and Romanians were given a pretty good grilling by the two CBP agents (e.g., where’s your family, number of contract, etc.). The Captain oversaw all the crew and us through the interrogation. The Austrian went next and got a fair amount of grilling.

Female CBP agent: Why didn’t you fill out the I-94?

The Austrian: It says right on top of it that Canadian citizens don’t have to fill one out…

Male CBP agent: Why don’t you have a U.S. visa?

The Austrian: Canadians don’t need one…

Female CBP agent: Why did you sail on a freighter? Don’t you like cruise ships? What was the (freighter crossing) like? Did you like it?

Couldn’t motion to the CBP agent with the Captain standing directly behind her….

My turn and the grilling was less as questions had been answered. I don’t think they see many passengers.

That done, we got our passports back and went up to our cabin before breakfast. The Austrian is always happy that she has a get-out-of-jail-free 2nd passport.

After breakfast, we went to speak to the Chief Officer, who apparently had gone to bed, to ask about disembarking. Any time, came the reply from the OOW. Saw the Chief Engineer talking to his replacement who had come onboard early. He was supposed to board at noon but was itching to get back out to sea perhaps.



Shuttle bus taking some Romanians officers on shore leave to the gate. No walking around the port (it'd be a long long walk)

Went back up to our cabin to take a few more photos, then came down with our bags to disembark. The Chief Officer and OOW actually shook our hands. “Got rid of them, finally!” A crewman offered to carry the Austrians bag down. I followed with mine. We had kept our gloves for this last moment on ship. 72 steps down the other side of the ship.

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The crewman who helped carry the Austrian's bag down walking back up

Farewell to the Libra

Be careful walking through the truck traffic!



Containers leaving the port by the.... truckload. Is customs clearance that fast?


The shuttle bus drove towards the ship when the driver saw us, but couldn’t get close due to the fleet of trucks waiting to take containers away. We had to dodge through lanes (the drivers are very nice). Boarded the bus and the driver promptly started and drove out of the unloading area like the title of a Meat Loaf album. Hmm, all the way across the Pacific and we die on the docks. The ride came to an end and the driver pointed us towards a gate. “Go to that hut, see the lady, and you’re out” Unceremoniously dumped in the middle of nowhere (very southern continuation of I-710). If the ship’s crew offers to order you taxi, take it. We had a ride but cellphone coverage isn’t the best out here.

Unceremonious dump

End of the voyage - An unceremonious dumping at the dock gates

In the middle of nowhere by

End of Pier J Road. There's nothing out here!


Libra

Track of the CMA CGM Libra 8-24 March 2016

YVR Cockroach

Is freighter travel for you?

All depends on how comfortable you are with filling your time, how important you think you are, and how healthy you are. You have to be flexible in your diet. You have to be able to entertain yourself and fill in your whole day. You can also assume that there are no means of communications available and if there is, it will most likely be limited in speed and capacity and will be expensive. The Austrian found it refreshing that no one was constantly glued to their cell phones which is still very much in vogue in south-east and east Asia. You have to be healthy, at least as acceptable to the Line, and to yourself (not worrying about any potential health condition, likely, unlikely or otherwise). As far as CMA CGM is concerned, you also cannot be pregnant, mobility-, vision- and hearing-impaired, under the age of 16 or 5 depending on what you read, or over the age of 80, and/or bring on board animals of any kind (even service ones) except for dermal microfauna.

It is common sense but if you have any health issues, it is best not to go (though a cruise ship is hardly any better). The Messman told the Austrian that earlier on his contract onboard the Libra, there was a passenger who had undergone bariatric surgery a few months earlier, and was eating small portions for his meals. He took ill and shipboard diagnosis with shore indicated that his stomach staples had come loose and he needed urgent medical attention. The only way this could happen was helicopter evacuation (hence the requirement for such insurance) and Paul said he was still smiling when the crew placed him in the basket. Those who are prone to motion sickness should avoid freighter travel too.

Seasonality may be an issue too. Before signing the contract, a provision is included strongly advising the elderly and first timers not to travel due to possibly poor weather, such as ”severe atmospheric depression” trans-Atlantic from December to March. We’ve been wanting to go on deck for the whole voyage but the seas have been deemed too rough.

Do you expect customer service and feel a need to be attended to such as being kept informed of day and time of arrival, daily weather and seas forecast, ship passenger routine and procedure aboard, and a whole range of issues no matter how seemingly minor and routine (never mind entertainment), think twice about going as there may not be any information or any semblance of customer service offered.

As with international aviation, shipboard working language (announcement, emergencies, etc.) is English which probably would be no problem for you if you are reading this, unless you cannot understand accents of English other than your own. The crew will speak their own language amongst themselves so if you happen to speak one or more of the nationality languages on board, you’ll do fine. The only exception I can think of it is you are travelling on a ship of a nation big enough to create its own rules (PRC for one) though I’m not aware of any of their freighters transporting passengers.

Given our booking experiences, it also depends on how flexible your time is, long, medium and/or short term. For the former, shipping schedules (and also points of origin or destination) that may change drastically and entirely, and the latter, changes in boarding and disembarking days (never mind time).
If there are ports of call en route, be aware that taxi is the only (and often expensive) option to get to and from dockside - dangerous and thus controlled not only because of loading operations but port areas are frequently salacious. You may be able to pool with crew on shore leave. They advise keeping in touch with ship and agent to make sure you board before sailing time. The waivers repeatedly state that the ship will sail without you.

The tobacco-allergic may want to avoid freighters as the crew (or at least Officers) smokes a lot though that may vary slightly with nationality. Cheap cigarettes from the ship’s slop chest don’t help to curtail the habit. While CMA CGM does forbid smoking in corridors and public areas (cabins too except when the spaces are equipped with exhaust vents which the Libra is), tobacco smoke can be smelled in various areas and various strengths (fortunately not in the cabin). Fortunately the ventilation system is adequate.

Cost: Generally the rates are € 100-110 per person per day with no additional nonsense such as port fees (your fare is petty cash and a minor and mere incidental compared to cargo revenue, but also nearly 100% profit at the margin): You contract with the line for the expected number of days, no refunds if the voyage is shorter and you pay if it is longer. There’s little variation in rates (it varies slightly with the shipping line and route) as your fare is largely incidental revenue and may not be worth the overhead expense. Some ports also directly charge passengers a disembarkation fee/tax and mandate you to pay for an expensive fixed-rate taxi to the nearest large city (IIRC, Port Klang, Malaysia for one). Single supplements are very minimal or non-existent, and sometimes there is a slightly-higher rate for better/bigger cabins (namely, owner’s suite of which most CMA-CGM ships don’t appear to have any of). The only additional expense otherwise is tipping the MessMan.

Who else sails on freighters?

It’s mainly the older and those with time on their hands who sail on freighters due to time and other issues. They’ll probably be much healthier than your average cruise passenger of the same age. That is quite a difference from the ‘50s and ’60s and earlier when it was the economic mode of inter-continental travel and certainly no longer a means of passage for the young and those wishing to work for passage. Some sail intercontinental (northern Europe to Australia or v-v is a popular one often booked a year+ in advance) and some even sail a long round trip on the same ship, seeing crew come and go. They are generally European too except for sailings between Europe and Australia where you do get a lot of Australians.

The Messman mentioned that in his two earlier contracts onboard freighters, passengers generally sailed from South America to Europe and from North America to Europe (the latter being easier visa-wise for E.U. citizens for reasons following) but hardly any in the other direction.

How to book a freighter trip

There are at least 3 agencies worldwide that specialise in freighter travel. One each in the U.K., U.S. and France. The latter offers a multitude of information of routes and fares, but it’s only in French. The former two English-speaking ones much less so, and some say they are not very helpful. I dealt directly with the passenger department (Traveller’s Club) of the Line in Marseille whose staff are not exactly prompt in responding. That said, travel arrangements and changes were all managed and we did set sail.

YVR Cockroach

If you decide to go - A non-inclusive check list of what to bring and how to prepare

Bring European electrical adapters (recessed fittings) and possibly extension cords as you’ll need them.

No hairdryers so bring your own if you feel the need for one.

If you like to sip on coffee all day, bring a wide-base mug with a non-slip bottom so you can bring up coffee from the mess or bring it outside.
A supply of your favorite hot beverages would be good too (sugar and milk available onboard). I thought I had garnered a sizeable stash of tea and coffee at the various hotels we’ve stayed at over the past few months but found it running low within days. There’s only Lipton jasmine tea onboard and Unilever must use an overly-intense flavouring instead of jasmine flowers.

Any grippy liners such as kitchen shelf liners or rubber mats to stop mugs and other objects sliding around in rough seas (glasses, watch, alarm clocks, kettles, dentures..). Even a face towel will do. Our laptops have rubber feet so they did not slide while the wireless mouse has gone flying off.

Binoculars, map and geometry kit (for making a scale to measure roll and pitch) would be handy as would some tape to attach the scale (Google Earth software does not work offline). A compass and a device to measure temperature and atmospheric pressure would be useful too. We used Microsoft Autoroute and Streets & Trips 2013 for charting (both sadly discontinued). There is also OpenCPN but I had neglected to download charts for the north Pacific. It’s also a chance to polish up your geometry, trigonometry and algebraic skills. Calculus too if you wish.

No need for laundry detergent as it’s supplied (same system/stuff as on cruise ships) and best of all, use of the machines is complimentary. We didn’t know in advance (and no such thing as popping out to the convenience store once onboard) so now I’m carrying a 1.5 Kg bag of powder detergent. If you like line drying, bring your own drying line and some pegs. There was a make-shift laundry line in the laundry room on our deck so we didn’t have to use our own. Two huge nozzles supply a lot of dry air and even the heaviest clothes will line dry within a few hours.

Bring your own toiletries as nothing is supplied except big bars of soap and rolls of toilet paper. Moisturizer and lip balm are necessary as the air-conditioning which while not particularly cool, serves its function of dehumidifying very well. Leaving windows open is not prudent.

Bring your own entertainment. The Libra’s library was particularly sparse and other ships may be like so. No internet or marine telephone (InMarSat is expensive and while available to the crew, not offered to us on the Libra at any price) hence no distractions. No TV except in the lounge and no signals anyway – no, there is no satellite TV. Bring your computer (it would seem that’s how all the crew on board entertain themselves) with software that works offline, ripped/downloaded video and music or even actual media.

Bring a host of cables of all combinations if you want to connect to a TV or an entertainment system e.g., HDMI and RCA trio for the TV, earset single pin to single pin or RCA inputs for audio – we found the little Sony MP3 system didn’t like our cell phones or large mem sticks so the USB connection was useless. The desk does have co-axial (the large push in, not the screw-on type) outputs for TV/FM and AM but we don’t know if there were any signals. If you have nothing better to do, you can always write. There’s no newspapers too; it’s in the contract. Someone must have asked, and complained.

Bring a flash light. Handy if you are looking for things that are making noises in the night outside. Freighters are rarely lit up at night, unlike cruise ships that resemble X’mas trees or brothels in the Nevada desert (I know only because I’ve lived in Nevada and have driven US 50 and other desert highways at night). The Libra only illuminates a few lights around the deck walkway and rarely on accommodation external walkways. All this is great for the astronomer if skies are clear. Don’t bring your telescope as the ship will move too much.

Bring and wear work coveralls and gloves to wear when you board, and preferably work boots when walking around outside: You’ll be glad you did. All these can be supplied onboard but you will want the coveralls and gloves for boarding and disembarking. Forget about bringing remotely formal and/or even very marginally fancy wear. Extreme casual is the fashion. For packing, a backpack is my choice as it is easier to carry your stuff up and down the accommodation ladder (unless you can get a crewman to help you). Bring a hoodie or alternatively a watch cap. It’ll keep your head warm outside. Any other head gear is likely to get blown off. Also bring warm, windproof clothes for going out on deck (or in the event of an evacuation at sea). Wind and waterproof clothes are good too as are sturdy, non-slip soled footwear. We had a supply of hotel slippers for wearing around in our cabin. The crew are often found wearing plastic clogs (not slippery Crocs) inside the accommodation.

As far as rough seas are concerned, a layer of firm-ish egg crate foam for your bed that you can sink into and provides your body grip and side support in rolling seas, or maybe just for your own comfort: Marine mattresses are very firm - and a major passenger complaint according to Paul - and there’s no mattress pad at least on the Libra. They’re also cheap enough that you can leave them behind or give them to the crew.

Medical and pharmaceutical supplies. Bring everything that you need and may need as you may not have access to it onboard. The waiver states that only the international shipping regulatory amount and type of medicines are available. The ship crew may make anti-nausea medication available but it may not be your preferred medication. There’s no one handing out candied ginger (rumoured to be a seasickness remedy) either.

If you need to borrow anything onboard, you’ll find that you have to consult one specific person for everything. The Electrician is responsible for all things electric so you’ll have to ask him for adapters and cables. The 3rd officer is responsible for all safety-related gear so all protective and water gear requests go to him.

Booking and reservation

When inquiring about cabins, ask if the cabin you want is rated for single or double occupancy (it may not be known to the Travel Department). If bed size seems too small, assume the cabin is single occupancy. A side cabin is also preferable for view. A cabin on the side of the accommodation with side windows would be the best for viewing as side windows won’t be obstructed, and are wider too. Forward and rear-facing windows could be obstructed by containers if the ship is stacked high with them. If the Libra had been stacked 7 high just forward of the accommodation, we would have lost our view, and if 8 high, quite a bit of light in addition too. Side cabins however may experience more up and down motion when the ship rolls than a cabin located in the lateral middle.

Be Flexible and Alert - Check the ship schedule and ship position of your line frequently

Our first reservation was to be from Malta to Malaysia on the Columbus Loop line. The ships of this sail from the east coast of North America, through the Mediterranean - calling at CMA CGM’s facilities at Freeport, Malta and transiting the Suez Canal to Port Klang, Malaysia before heading to east Asia and then to Vancouver and Seattle and then going back the same way. Due to low oil prices in the second half of 2015, the ships of the line (sailing weekly on a 120-day rotation) began to sail directly from Savannah, Georgia to Port Klang bypassing Europe entirely. Though some 2,400 km (or miles) longer, it’s cheaper as it avoids Suez canal fees and having to burn expensive diesel in European waters (all the way from the other side of the Straits of Gibraltar to the mouth of the Suez). Only by keeping track of the ship (on sites such as marinetraffic.com) we were supposed to sail on (CMA CGM Figaro) was I able to realise this change before the passenger department of the Line did. Due to lack of timely availability, we could not transfer to ships on the other Europe-south-east Asia lines. As we already had plans to be in Europe, flying to Savannah to board the Figaro there would not be a sound financial decision. Our Plan B was to do something else which was a last-minute (as in planned 10 days before arrival) tour of Sri Lanka. The contract strongly recommends (underlined) open tickets.

Be Alert, if not Flexible too

The second trip-disrupting event was at the beginning of February when I came across a continuously-updated schedule page for the Pearl River Express line and noticed that the CMA CGM Centaurus was taking some 4 weeks to reach East Asia from Oakland and stopping at Vostochny, a Russian far east port en route (for the aforementioned cheap refuelling as I found out on board the Libra) before reappearing in KaoHsiung (a new port of call) and resuming her schedule from HongKong 2 weeks later. Fortunately the Libra was shifted to Centaurus’s original scheduled sailing date and had availability so it was on her that we found ourselves. Plan B for this trip was to make our way back to Sri Lanka and buy a cheap ex-CMB premium cabin fare.
Once you agree on a transport contract, it’s 25% down if it’s more than 45 days before sailing and non-refundable if you cancel, 100% if less than 45 days. Final payment is due 45 days before scheduled sailing and is 50% non-refundable 30-60 days before sailing and 100% non-refundable less than 30 days prior. If you have to cancel, try to wait until the voyage has been changed sufficiently so that it is deemed an unreasonable change and cancellation is free. Changing boarding by a continent wasn’t even argued but I’m not sure if a 2 week delay would have been sufficient grounds for a free cancellation.

If food and wine is important to you, try to book on a French-officered ship: They’re more likely to want better meals, take their time to enjoy it, and drink some wine with it too. Make your schedule fit around availability. On the other hand if your drinking problem doesn’t mean you don’t have a drink in your hand, a Slav- or German-officered ship would be better for your liver.

Obtain Necessary Visas

If visas of any sort are required for countries that the ship will call in en route or at your final destination, then paper visas are probably necessary as electronic travel authorities, visa-free transits and visas on arrival will likely not be available to the freight ship-borne traveller. For example, those who are normally eligible for ESTA or I-94W visa waiver travel to the U.S.A. require an actual U.S. B-1 or B-2 visa, which costs in time if not money too makes sailing on a ship to or via the U.S. a major nuisance (and perhaps explains why Paul has never had Asia-U.S. travellers before us, but there’s always someone in the other direction – 3 Europeans the last trip alone). The same for Australia (no ETA) or Egypt (no visa on arrival). For ships calling in the PRC (even if only one stop is scheduled), multiple-entry PRC visas are required with different visas required for embarkation (F or G) and disembarkation (L) in ShangHai. Fortunately, ships calling in Saudi Arabia don’t require visas as the Saudis don’t permit disembarkation (again, who would want to go ashore). I was going to inquire about Oman (visa on arrival by air into Muscat is available but nothing mentioned thus probably not available for arrival by sea or transit at Salalah) as an alternative route to the Figaro’s sailing but there were no available berths. The passenger department (Traveller’s Club) of the Line in Marseille requires scans of necessary visas before they will issue your passage ticket, and also a scan of your passport if a visa is not required (such as for Canadians visiting the U.S.).

Complete All Paperwork

The main one is the Medical Certificate, which the form says should be filled in by your family doctor completed and returned 60 days before scheduled sailing. If 75 or older, a second health document has to be filled in and sent within 30 days of sailing. The travel health insurance waiver also asks you for the name of your insurance company, the policy number, start date and contact phone number but I do not know if they do actually call the insurance company to verify.

Forms, forms and more forms

The Line’s travel department sends you lot of forms that you have to fill out and more importantly sign. We sent scanned copies back which may be why we were never asked for anything onboard. These are:

Declaration (or discharge of the responsibility per the document title) – highlights your signed understanding of the ship’s unguaranteed schedule, liability for substitution, insurance, lack of medical facilities, among other things

Discharge of Insurance (that you have your own coverage including evacuation)

Disclaimer (lots of similar items to the Discharge of Responsibility)
a second Statement of Responsibility

Special Conditions, that repeats the main point of the preceding documents.
The ship office also takes and keeps your passport until you disembark so the privacy and data security paranoid need not apply. Even the officers don’t have possession of their own passports.

Be Flexible in the Short-Term

Arrive to the departure port early and have a plan B. We fitted in a China trip before the scheduled sailing and arrived in the vicinity 2 days before sailing (keeping an eye on the schedule all the time). We were due to board on the morning of 8 March but the ship was late getting into NanSha the previous day and would be late in leaving so it did not arrive until very late on the evening of scheduled boarding day, ending up as a full day delay in boarding and another paid hotel night. I finally rode the HongKong tram from one end (Kennedy Town) to the other (ShauKeiWan) - something I’ve wanted to do for nearly 40 years – and should have done it earlier as it is a test of endurance. The ship could have easily skipped a port too, or rearrange order of call, so be prepared to board early or even at another port. An example of this is the eastern terminus of the Columbus Loop line. The ships generally call first at Seattle-Tacoma and then Vancouver but occasionally, the ship will call at Vancouver first instead.

A few weeks before sailing, the travel department will send you local office and agent contact information. Keep in touch with them and make sure they can reach you.

Departing late also means arriving late. I had reserved a car rental in Long Beach for the afternoon of the 23rd but since the ship doesn’t arrive until the morning of the 24th. Never make any cast-in-stone guaranteed/prepaid reservations anticipating a scheduled arrival.

Plan ahead for ports of call and final destination

Learn about the locations of port of calls and especially your port of disembarkation so you are at least aware of general directions and distances to wherever you wish to go. Seeing where other ships of the Line are on the ship location websites is a good way. Another item in the contract is ships not offering any currency exchange facilities. For any stops along the way where you are planning to go ashore, plan to have enough local currency in advance and don’t count on ATMs being readily available. Also have more than enough local currency for your final destination to get so your accommodation, especially if it is unfamiliar and/or far from a city or old port (as modern container ports often are). CMA CGM sailings to “Vancouver” dump you in Deltaport that, as a local, I can tell you is a far from anything of interest and any facilities. I’d almost hate to think about disembarking in Prince Rupert (terminus of one of Hanjin’s line to North America).

Be Flexible in Your Diet

You get what the officers (or crew) eat. Choice of one soup and choice of one main (and choice of one fruit or dessert – there isn’t both). No choice (unless you want or have to eat what the crew eat) which is often the same animal as served to crew but perhaps other parts and cooked differently so those with dietary particularities may have trouble (though it may facilitate starvation diets). I suspect shipping lines prefer to staff from omnivorous cultures, religions and nationalities.

No booze permitted to be brought on board officially. Though no one may check, if one BYOs boarding may be denied if they search. I’d pick a Latin one, i.e., French and Italian as officers on both are more likely to expect wine with meals, and quality food to boot and sell alcohol in the onboard shop.
The Line’s contract, almost all in English, contains a single paragraph in French which states the meals are served at fixed times and with the captain and officers, and includes mineral water and 25 cl of wine per meal (I’m sure that means lunch and dinner) and per person. Additional alcohol and tobacco (limited choice available at the ship’s shop. How we tried. I guess Romania is more Slav than Latin.

Other reading:

http://voyages-madeleine-guillou.over-blog.com/

84fiero

What an amazing trip and excellent report!

hirohito888

Very good report, and very well written. Very informative too!

Gardyloo

What a terrific report. It sounds like the officers and chief crew on your ship were not especially welcoming, a pity. Still, what an impressive effort on your part.

My own poor trip report marking a transpacific cruise my wife and I took 17 years ago, pales in comparison. But it might be of interest. Here's the link - http://gardyloo.us/Across%20the%20Pa...0Freighter.pdf

ETA - I've added an HTML version, here: http://gardyloo.us/freighter.htm

rakers

I, too, have been thinking about this for 20 years! I am so jazzed to read your wonderful trip report! Thank you, thank you, thank you!

Doc Savage

Very informative trip report, thanks!

I ran across this article about freighters changing routes due to cheaper fuel and changing economics today. Thought it might be of interest after your exposition of the bunker fuel issues.

http://www.bbc.com/future/story/2016...k-to-the-1800s

adampenrith

Really enjoyed your TR with a difference.

What a facinating way to travel.

However i found your anti Semetic comments disturbing.

Isreal has reasons for its security, namely the protection of its citizens.

Israel is a facinating country to visit, it would be a shame if your prejudice left you without that experience

Coathanger

Incredibly interesting report. Thank you for sharing YVR Cockroach!

While the more traditional premium cabin trip reports, perfected by the likes of Seat 2A, SFO77 and matthandy, originally got me hooked on FT these more unusual reports like this and DanielW are fascinating.

You certainly don't get the same level of behind-the-scenes access on the QM2!

Calliopeflyer

There's nothing anti-Semetic about saying something unflattering about Israel as a political entity -- or, at least, there shouldn't be. A race or religion is not the same as the politics or political decision of a country, and it is not anti-Muslim to say that one does not want to visit Syria either.

I'm Jewish and I don't want to visit Israel now either -- it's a war zone, and that's something I want to stay away from. It doesn't make me anti-Semitic to want to avoid entering an area that has virtually been at war for decades.

redburdjcd

Unbelievable report! Such an interesting read!

injian

what an amazing TR! i was definitely amused at reading the title but it was the actual write up that got me hooked.

a very different report which most people have not seen before on FT and is a welcome change.