HIKING ASIA: Mt Fuji and the Great Wall with some SQ First and assorted fun
Jul 18, 2015, 1:04 am
#16
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: CGK
Programs: FlyingBlue | Krisflyer | SPG | HHonors
Posts: 1,563
+1 on Hokkaido Milk! They are really some of the best milk ever!
Next time you can get the Suica card which makes it more convenient to travel around in Tokyo or other cities in Japan. Just tap on the way to the train and when you leave and if I remember correctly it works on both the subway, metro and even the JR Yamanote.
We were in between two different subway stations on different lines which gave us more flexibility. The odd thing about Tokyo is that the subways are not part of the same ownership. This means that sometimes you have to but a ticket on Tokyo Metro and then another ticket on Tokyo Subway. It’s much easier to connect on lines from the same system. Once we figured this out, we started making better decisions of routes.
Jul 19, 2015, 2:58 am
#17
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Digital Nomad
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Posts: 1,024
PART 5: Hike Up Mt. Fuji
On Monday we left our Airbnb house for the bus station area of Shinjuku. We had booked bus tickets direct from Shinjuku to the 5th Station of Mt Fuji. Most hikers choose to start at this station located at 2,300 m rather than walking from the bottom. This still leaves about 1,400 m to hike to reach the peak of 3,776 m.
Once the bus dropped us, we bought final supplies and ate a ramen lunch. I was pleased that the temperature had dropped compared to the hot and humid summer weather.
Departing on the hike from the 5th Station
I know many people who had intended to hike up Mt. Fuji only to have their plans bashed by the weather. Even worse they worked hard to get to the top only to have the visibility of zero fully covered in clouds. At the 5th station, the sunny weather provided us hope that our journey would be memorable. Little did we know how memorable it would turn out to be. While the sunshine warmed us, the strong winds reminded us that we were high up. I questioned whether we would be able to hike to the top in such winds.
Arriving at the 6th Station
We set out on our hike and soon the winds died down and we were huffing and puffing up the narrowing pathways. The route turned into a stairmaster workout and finally ended up being some basic bouldering. Most in our group did well but Jane and her thirteen daughter struggled as the pitch became steeper. I questioned if they were struggling at this point, would they be able to make it all the way to the top.
Jane bought all the kids an official Mt Fuji wooden walking stick. The tradition is to pay 300 yen at various huts up the mountain and receive a burnt in stamp recognizing that level. The kids loved it and were happy to commemorate their achievements.
One of the traditions is to buy a wood walking stick and then have stamps burned into it along the way up the mountain
Our Japanese friend Koji had made reservations at a hut at the 7th Station. This meant we would have about 1,200 m to hike up in the dark in order to reach the summit at sunrise. For about $70USD, each of us got a basic evening meal at 5 p.m. of curry and rice, a bunk to rest and a bento box for the morning.
After arriving at the 7th station we relaxed at our hut “for the night” until our departure at 11:45 p.m.
The boys taught us a card game called President that we all enjoyed but we all hit the hay by 7 p.m. knowing that we were all getting up at 11:30 p.m. to continue our journey. This was not going to be a long sleep.
As we were preparing for sleep, we noticed that the views out to the world below were spectacular in the setting sun. The hues of blue, orange and pink painted the sky. Even the owners of the hut were outside taking photos of the incredible sky. We hoped that this boded well for clear skies in at sunrise in the morning.
I don’t remember sleeping much but the others around reported that my snoring provided a different story. I just remember looking at my watch about every 30 minutes. Sleeping at high altitudes is never easy.
Back in March of 1999, my friends Robert, Christine, Annamarie and I hiked up the Machame route of Mt. Kilimanjaro. We choose the six day route that provides an extra day of a acclimatization over the much more popular “Coca-Cola” route that is only five days. Christine was very fit and often did triathlons. But once her body got above 12,000 ft, it began to shut down. She struggled her way up to the last camp at 17,000 ft but did not join us for the final accent to the summit at 20,000 ft. Some people’s body just are not meant to function in high altitudes.
The hike up Mt. Fuji was much lower but will above the 12,000 ft cut off point that affects many people. I wondered if anyone in our group of seven would be afflicted.
Several of our phone alarms went off simultaneously at 11:30 p.m. and we made our final preparations for our Fuji ascent. While excited, we all shared an unspoken concern for our health and safety. Hiking all night long in the pitch black up a steep mountain would not be easy.
Starting out we left the 7th Station
We set out around 11:45 p.m. on Monday, July 13. The sky was clear and pitch black. One of the key items we were told to bring was a headlamp to illuminate the way. I was hoping for a little moonlight but no such luck. As we started walking, Jane mentioned that her daughter couldn’t find her headlamp. This really concerned me. I was fearful for her safety let alone her ability to reach the summit.
My son and nephew almost immediately walked on ahead of us. I stayed right behind Abby so that my headlamp could light up her path. Unfortunately the path was made up of volcanic rock and thus many shadows made it difficult to navigate. She slipped an fell several times but after a while seemed to slip into a silent motion forward. I started weighing some of our options. In addition, she was struggling with her breathing due to the physical exertion and the high altitude. Would she and Jane have turn back? Or at least wait until it got lighter to attempt the summit?
At this point too, Koji was dealing with a funny tummy. He and Tom held back so he could spend some time in the less than pleasant toilets. Our team was quickly breaking down and spirits were falling.
Once the bus dropped us, we bought final supplies and ate a ramen lunch. I was pleased that the temperature had dropped compared to the hot and humid summer weather.
Departing on the hike from the 5th Station
I know many people who had intended to hike up Mt. Fuji only to have their plans bashed by the weather. Even worse they worked hard to get to the top only to have the visibility of zero fully covered in clouds. At the 5th station, the sunny weather provided us hope that our journey would be memorable. Little did we know how memorable it would turn out to be. While the sunshine warmed us, the strong winds reminded us that we were high up. I questioned whether we would be able to hike to the top in such winds.
Arriving at the 6th Station
We set out on our hike and soon the winds died down and we were huffing and puffing up the narrowing pathways. The route turned into a stairmaster workout and finally ended up being some basic bouldering. Most in our group did well but Jane and her thirteen daughter struggled as the pitch became steeper. I questioned if they were struggling at this point, would they be able to make it all the way to the top.
Jane bought all the kids an official Mt Fuji wooden walking stick. The tradition is to pay 300 yen at various huts up the mountain and receive a burnt in stamp recognizing that level. The kids loved it and were happy to commemorate their achievements.
One of the traditions is to buy a wood walking stick and then have stamps burned into it along the way up the mountain
Our Japanese friend Koji had made reservations at a hut at the 7th Station. This meant we would have about 1,200 m to hike up in the dark in order to reach the summit at sunrise. For about $70USD, each of us got a basic evening meal at 5 p.m. of curry and rice, a bunk to rest and a bento box for the morning.
After arriving at the 7th station we relaxed at our hut “for the night” until our departure at 11:45 p.m.
The boys taught us a card game called President that we all enjoyed but we all hit the hay by 7 p.m. knowing that we were all getting up at 11:30 p.m. to continue our journey. This was not going to be a long sleep.
As we were preparing for sleep, we noticed that the views out to the world below were spectacular in the setting sun. The hues of blue, orange and pink painted the sky. Even the owners of the hut were outside taking photos of the incredible sky. We hoped that this boded well for clear skies in at sunrise in the morning.
I don’t remember sleeping much but the others around reported that my snoring provided a different story. I just remember looking at my watch about every 30 minutes. Sleeping at high altitudes is never easy.
Back in March of 1999, my friends Robert, Christine, Annamarie and I hiked up the Machame route of Mt. Kilimanjaro. We choose the six day route that provides an extra day of a acclimatization over the much more popular “Coca-Cola” route that is only five days. Christine was very fit and often did triathlons. But once her body got above 12,000 ft, it began to shut down. She struggled her way up to the last camp at 17,000 ft but did not join us for the final accent to the summit at 20,000 ft. Some people’s body just are not meant to function in high altitudes.
The hike up Mt. Fuji was much lower but will above the 12,000 ft cut off point that affects many people. I wondered if anyone in our group of seven would be afflicted.
Several of our phone alarms went off simultaneously at 11:30 p.m. and we made our final preparations for our Fuji ascent. While excited, we all shared an unspoken concern for our health and safety. Hiking all night long in the pitch black up a steep mountain would not be easy.
Starting out we left the 7th Station
We set out around 11:45 p.m. on Monday, July 13. The sky was clear and pitch black. One of the key items we were told to bring was a headlamp to illuminate the way. I was hoping for a little moonlight but no such luck. As we started walking, Jane mentioned that her daughter couldn’t find her headlamp. This really concerned me. I was fearful for her safety let alone her ability to reach the summit.
My son and nephew almost immediately walked on ahead of us. I stayed right behind Abby so that my headlamp could light up her path. Unfortunately the path was made up of volcanic rock and thus many shadows made it difficult to navigate. She slipped an fell several times but after a while seemed to slip into a silent motion forward. I started weighing some of our options. In addition, she was struggling with her breathing due to the physical exertion and the high altitude. Would she and Jane have turn back? Or at least wait until it got lighter to attempt the summit?
At this point too, Koji was dealing with a funny tummy. He and Tom held back so he could spend some time in the less than pleasant toilets. Our team was quickly breaking down and spirits were falling.
.
Jul 21, 2015, 9:35 am
#20
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Digital Nomad
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Posts: 1,024
PART 5: Continuation of Our Hike Up Mt. Fuji
I have done several hikes that require a nighttime departure. Night hiking is so different from day hiking. On this evening there was a strong wind that hit our faces and bodies. Because of this, we did not do much talking. Also with the altitude we were all breathing heavily so it was all we could do to just keep moving forward.
The trail of headlamps shows us the way
By the time we were passing the 8th station, Abby continued to hike well. She never complained to me. Often it was her immediately in front of me sharing my headlamp. I was very impressed with her endurance.
Around the station they call “8.5”, we meet up with Tom and Koji who was feeling a bit better. The path was getting steeper which was making us all go slower. I learned the mantra “pole-pole” while hiking up Kilimanjaro. It means “slowly-slowly” in Swahili. I spent two year in Malawi with the US Peace Corps and learning a cousin language to Swahili called Chichewa. Their version is “pangono-pangono”. Both simply mean, if you take it slowly, you will succeed.
I taught Abby that when hiking at altitude it is important to take smaller steps than normal. But doing so you can actually catch your breath while still moving forward. The moment you stop, your body cools down and hypothermia can set in. Our path past the 8.5 station was littered with bodies of people lying down trying to find the energy to continue. Using the pole-pole method is a much better way of giving your body a rest while not stopping.
This method was working for both Abby and Jane. While they had questioned if they were going to be able to make it, they were finding the internal strength to keep going.
In retrospect, it would have been better to stay in one of the last huts so that we wouldn’t have had to get up so early. I reckon that we could have gotten up at 2:30 a.m. instead of 11:30 p.m. if we had stayed at the 8.5 station. This is very important because it is a long day trying to summit and then walking all the way down back to the 5th station.
In spite of the pitch black darkness, we could see a steady stream of white headlamps snaking up the mountain. We had been warned that there are many false summits meaning that there are many places where you think you can see the end but in reality, it’s much further.
Around 3:30 a.m. we had been hiking for almost four hours in the dark. The temperature had dropped close to 3 or 4 degrees and the wind was strong. As I turned around, I could see the sky beginning to show signs of the new day. I really wanted to get us all up the mountain in time for the sunrise. I knew that if we stopped to rest, it would be hard to get moving again so I pushed us forward well beyond most peoples comfort zones of what they could have imagined was possible.
The dawn of a new day with a fairly unhelpful moon
About the same time the moon finally rose but it was a new moon which did not lighten our way in the least. Our headlamps were our only light until the sun decided to finally rise.
The path next became crowed and people moved in single-file threads often stopping. Passing the stopped people was difficult since the path near the top is so narrow. The eastern sky was beginning to turn deep red then orange. And then finally it turned yellow. The sunrise was upon imminent.
With the sky getting lighter, Abby wasn’t so dependent on my headlamp so I left Jane and Abby in the slow moving queue of people and climbed around the line bouldering up at times. I knew we were very near the top and I really wanted to see it from the summit.
A stream of hikers coming up the hill
Two marble lions and a Japanese gate announced that we were reaching the summit. Tears began flowing down my face. It is for me not to get emotional at such a time. The hours of planning and physical and mental exertion had paid off and we had reached the summit.
A welcoming site at the summit
The same thing happened when I reached the top of Kilimanjaro in 1999 just before sunrise. The tears came and I couldn’t stop them. It was a moment where I thought of my mom. She was an avid hiker and was the one who shared with me the joys of the outdoors and climbing a mountain. She had died three years earlier from brain cancer and the pain of her death was still fresh. She would have been proud our trek to the top of Kilimanjaro.
Now sixteen years later, she would have been proud of her son and her grandson that she never got to meet making it to the top of Mt. Fuji. This is why tears flow when I get to the top of a mountain. I honor the memory of my mom.
Having known Jane since freshman year of high school, she too was close to my parents. Now she and her daughter were also making to the summit. We all hike for different reasons, often many different reasons. What a wonderful way to remember someone who has died.
Almost immediately at the summit I found Corbin and my nephew. They were one of the first people to the summit and were very cold by the time I reached them. The sun was still below the horizon so we had time to take some pre-sunrise picture in the beautifully developing sky.
Having found my son, we take a quick pre-sunrise photo
A gate to Japan
Soon Jane and Abby joined us and then Tom and Koji appeared too. We had all made it for this monumental moment of seeing the sun rise over the Japanese landscape. There was lots of hugging and photos to commemorate the moment.
Our entire group makes it to the summit in time for a stunning sunrise
There were hundreds of people at the top sharing this moment together. When the sun finally decided to reveal itself, there was a brief calmness to the joys of the hikers in spite of the howling winds. We had walked away from the big crowd to savor the sunrise and it did not fail to impress us. Here we were at 4:20 a.m. in the morning atop Mt Fuji in Japan watching a sunrise that none of us would ever forget.
Watching the sunrise in the howling wind
Waiting for the sun to officially rise
Our first glimpse of a new day
So happy to be at the top
The crater is just over a kilometer wide at the top and the route around its edge is about 4 km. The wind was so bitterly cold that we decided to appreciate the crater from one edge near the huts at the top. Instead we went inside a hut and had some hot milk tea.
At one point I returned outside to check the progress of the sun. I was met by one of the most beautiful sky capes of my life. It was breathtaking. I was pleased that the photo I took captured what was being offered.
The blazing sun from the top
A view of the crater
The sun warms us up nicely
The path down veered south of the route of ascension. It was volcanic scree that went on and on. Our legs and knees were giving an unusual workout as we descended. The 40 and 50 year olds began to feel the toll our hike had taken on our aging bodies. The path down was much steeper than the winding path up. The goal was to get us off the mountain. It was a long, hard four hour journey down. The elation of getting to the summit was a distant memory as we looked forward to getting back to the 5th station.
We arrived down around 9:10 a.m. We had been up since 11:30 p.m. the previous night. It had been a long day and we were shocked each time we looked at our watches. We joined up at a restaurant for some ramen before catching the 10:30 local bus to the train station.
We had anticipated that we would be very tired at this point. I had read that there were several spa hotels with natural hot mineral springs where we could recuperate. Tom booked us into one that was on the bank of a lake facing the mountain. It was beautifully relaxing way to end our huge endeavor.
Our “ryokan” was a Japanese style inn/hotel. The rooms were Japanese style with tatami mats and futons that were prepared for sleeping. Luckily we were able to get into rooms earlier than the normal 2 p.m. check-in. We were tired puppies.
Tom, Koji and I immediately headed to the traditional public bathing area of the hotel. This onsen had an indoor spa and dry sauna and an outdoor warm pool in a peaceful Japanese garden with views of the lake and Mt. Fuji. Paradise.
For the uninitiated, the onsen experience is delightful. You are required to be totally naked in the spa. No swimsuits allowed. Instead you bring down a “modesty towelette” that use hold in front of your bits as you walk around. It never goes into the water. Instead most Japanese fold it up and store it on top of their heads as they sit in the soothing waters. One word of caution: if you have any tattoos, you must cover them with medical bandages in order to use the onsen. Tattoos are linked to their mafia and are forbidden in the public baths.
Also in our room we had a robe that hotel guests wore to meals and when relaxing. We took some amazing picture just before dinner on the shores of the lake with our mountain in the background.
Tired puppies at the end of a long day
Our entire group
Our afternoon nap after soaking in the hot springs was heavenly. It was one of the best naps of my life. When I woke, the boys and I played cards and raided the mini-bar. There was no wifi in the rooms so we got to entertain ourselves.
The price of our stay there was about $150 a person which included the hotel room, use of the onsen, a traditional dinner served in a private dining room and Japanese buffet breakfast in the morning. I really consider it to be a great bargan!
The dinner was incredible. The table was beautifully set as we entered the dining room. I was thankful that they had used normal chairs and table instead of making us sit on mat as tradition would have dictated. I saw that in the rooms for the Japanese clients, the tables were all low!
Our private dining room
The menu
We ate a variety of fish, sushi, crab, pork, soups, shabu shabu… it was a meal that would not stop. Our server kept bringing out more and more courses. Paired with a nice bottle of sake and we were content. It was a perfect way to end an incredible day of hiking up Mt. Fuji.
The preset course
Lovely sashimi
After dinner the boys finally got over their shyness about having to be naked and went down to the onsen for an evening soak. When we visited Japan five years ago as part of our year of travel, Corbin loved his onsen experience in Tokyo with us. But with puberty hitting, he is less comfortable being naked around others.
Of course, Corbin and his cousin loved the public bath experience especially the outdoor pool. There is nothing like it in the world. My nephew is one quarter Japanese and really enjoyed learning about all the Japanese customs.
After a great night’s sleep, we all met up for a delicious Japanese breakfast buffet: sushi, miso soup, tempura, cooked fish, salad… it was great experience. The hotel definitely feed us well during our stay. I would highly recommend getting out of Tokyo and staying at one of the lakeside ryokans even if you don’t hike up Mt. Fuji. Of course, it’s a better experience if it’s the treat after you long hike!
The trail of headlamps shows us the way
By the time we were passing the 8th station, Abby continued to hike well. She never complained to me. Often it was her immediately in front of me sharing my headlamp. I was very impressed with her endurance.
Around the station they call “8.5”, we meet up with Tom and Koji who was feeling a bit better. The path was getting steeper which was making us all go slower. I learned the mantra “pole-pole” while hiking up Kilimanjaro. It means “slowly-slowly” in Swahili. I spent two year in Malawi with the US Peace Corps and learning a cousin language to Swahili called Chichewa. Their version is “pangono-pangono”. Both simply mean, if you take it slowly, you will succeed.
I taught Abby that when hiking at altitude it is important to take smaller steps than normal. But doing so you can actually catch your breath while still moving forward. The moment you stop, your body cools down and hypothermia can set in. Our path past the 8.5 station was littered with bodies of people lying down trying to find the energy to continue. Using the pole-pole method is a much better way of giving your body a rest while not stopping.
This method was working for both Abby and Jane. While they had questioned if they were going to be able to make it, they were finding the internal strength to keep going.
In retrospect, it would have been better to stay in one of the last huts so that we wouldn’t have had to get up so early. I reckon that we could have gotten up at 2:30 a.m. instead of 11:30 p.m. if we had stayed at the 8.5 station. This is very important because it is a long day trying to summit and then walking all the way down back to the 5th station.
In spite of the pitch black darkness, we could see a steady stream of white headlamps snaking up the mountain. We had been warned that there are many false summits meaning that there are many places where you think you can see the end but in reality, it’s much further.
Around 3:30 a.m. we had been hiking for almost four hours in the dark. The temperature had dropped close to 3 or 4 degrees and the wind was strong. As I turned around, I could see the sky beginning to show signs of the new day. I really wanted to get us all up the mountain in time for the sunrise. I knew that if we stopped to rest, it would be hard to get moving again so I pushed us forward well beyond most peoples comfort zones of what they could have imagined was possible.
The dawn of a new day with a fairly unhelpful moon
About the same time the moon finally rose but it was a new moon which did not lighten our way in the least. Our headlamps were our only light until the sun decided to finally rise.
The path next became crowed and people moved in single-file threads often stopping. Passing the stopped people was difficult since the path near the top is so narrow. The eastern sky was beginning to turn deep red then orange. And then finally it turned yellow. The sunrise was upon imminent.
With the sky getting lighter, Abby wasn’t so dependent on my headlamp so I left Jane and Abby in the slow moving queue of people and climbed around the line bouldering up at times. I knew we were very near the top and I really wanted to see it from the summit.
A stream of hikers coming up the hill
Two marble lions and a Japanese gate announced that we were reaching the summit. Tears began flowing down my face. It is for me not to get emotional at such a time. The hours of planning and physical and mental exertion had paid off and we had reached the summit.
A welcoming site at the summit
The same thing happened when I reached the top of Kilimanjaro in 1999 just before sunrise. The tears came and I couldn’t stop them. It was a moment where I thought of my mom. She was an avid hiker and was the one who shared with me the joys of the outdoors and climbing a mountain. She had died three years earlier from brain cancer and the pain of her death was still fresh. She would have been proud our trek to the top of Kilimanjaro.
Now sixteen years later, she would have been proud of her son and her grandson that she never got to meet making it to the top of Mt. Fuji. This is why tears flow when I get to the top of a mountain. I honor the memory of my mom.
Having known Jane since freshman year of high school, she too was close to my parents. Now she and her daughter were also making to the summit. We all hike for different reasons, often many different reasons. What a wonderful way to remember someone who has died.
Almost immediately at the summit I found Corbin and my nephew. They were one of the first people to the summit and were very cold by the time I reached them. The sun was still below the horizon so we had time to take some pre-sunrise picture in the beautifully developing sky.
Having found my son, we take a quick pre-sunrise photo
A gate to Japan
Soon Jane and Abby joined us and then Tom and Koji appeared too. We had all made it for this monumental moment of seeing the sun rise over the Japanese landscape. There was lots of hugging and photos to commemorate the moment.
Our entire group makes it to the summit in time for a stunning sunrise
There were hundreds of people at the top sharing this moment together. When the sun finally decided to reveal itself, there was a brief calmness to the joys of the hikers in spite of the howling winds. We had walked away from the big crowd to savor the sunrise and it did not fail to impress us. Here we were at 4:20 a.m. in the morning atop Mt Fuji in Japan watching a sunrise that none of us would ever forget.
Watching the sunrise in the howling wind
Waiting for the sun to officially rise
Our first glimpse of a new day
So happy to be at the top
The crater is just over a kilometer wide at the top and the route around its edge is about 4 km. The wind was so bitterly cold that we decided to appreciate the crater from one edge near the huts at the top. Instead we went inside a hut and had some hot milk tea.
At one point I returned outside to check the progress of the sun. I was met by one of the most beautiful sky capes of my life. It was breathtaking. I was pleased that the photo I took captured what was being offered.
The blazing sun from the top
A view of the crater
The sun warms us up nicely
The path down veered south of the route of ascension. It was volcanic scree that went on and on. Our legs and knees were giving an unusual workout as we descended. The 40 and 50 year olds began to feel the toll our hike had taken on our aging bodies. The path down was much steeper than the winding path up. The goal was to get us off the mountain. It was a long, hard four hour journey down. The elation of getting to the summit was a distant memory as we looked forward to getting back to the 5th station.
We arrived down around 9:10 a.m. We had been up since 11:30 p.m. the previous night. It had been a long day and we were shocked each time we looked at our watches. We joined up at a restaurant for some ramen before catching the 10:30 local bus to the train station.
We had anticipated that we would be very tired at this point. I had read that there were several spa hotels with natural hot mineral springs where we could recuperate. Tom booked us into one that was on the bank of a lake facing the mountain. It was beautifully relaxing way to end our huge endeavor.
Our “ryokan” was a Japanese style inn/hotel. The rooms were Japanese style with tatami mats and futons that were prepared for sleeping. Luckily we were able to get into rooms earlier than the normal 2 p.m. check-in. We were tired puppies.
Tom, Koji and I immediately headed to the traditional public bathing area of the hotel. This onsen had an indoor spa and dry sauna and an outdoor warm pool in a peaceful Japanese garden with views of the lake and Mt. Fuji. Paradise.
For the uninitiated, the onsen experience is delightful. You are required to be totally naked in the spa. No swimsuits allowed. Instead you bring down a “modesty towelette” that use hold in front of your bits as you walk around. It never goes into the water. Instead most Japanese fold it up and store it on top of their heads as they sit in the soothing waters. One word of caution: if you have any tattoos, you must cover them with medical bandages in order to use the onsen. Tattoos are linked to their mafia and are forbidden in the public baths.
Also in our room we had a robe that hotel guests wore to meals and when relaxing. We took some amazing picture just before dinner on the shores of the lake with our mountain in the background.
Tired puppies at the end of a long day
Our entire group
Our afternoon nap after soaking in the hot springs was heavenly. It was one of the best naps of my life. When I woke, the boys and I played cards and raided the mini-bar. There was no wifi in the rooms so we got to entertain ourselves.
The price of our stay there was about $150 a person which included the hotel room, use of the onsen, a traditional dinner served in a private dining room and Japanese buffet breakfast in the morning. I really consider it to be a great bargan!
The dinner was incredible. The table was beautifully set as we entered the dining room. I was thankful that they had used normal chairs and table instead of making us sit on mat as tradition would have dictated. I saw that in the rooms for the Japanese clients, the tables were all low!
Our private dining room
The menu
We ate a variety of fish, sushi, crab, pork, soups, shabu shabu… it was a meal that would not stop. Our server kept bringing out more and more courses. Paired with a nice bottle of sake and we were content. It was a perfect way to end an incredible day of hiking up Mt. Fuji.
The preset course
Lovely sashimi
After dinner the boys finally got over their shyness about having to be naked and went down to the onsen for an evening soak. When we visited Japan five years ago as part of our year of travel, Corbin loved his onsen experience in Tokyo with us. But with puberty hitting, he is less comfortable being naked around others.
Of course, Corbin and his cousin loved the public bath experience especially the outdoor pool. There is nothing like it in the world. My nephew is one quarter Japanese and really enjoyed learning about all the Japanese customs.
After a great night’s sleep, we all met up for a delicious Japanese breakfast buffet: sushi, miso soup, tempura, cooked fish, salad… it was great experience. The hotel definitely feed us well during our stay. I would highly recommend getting out of Tokyo and staying at one of the lakeside ryokans even if you don’t hike up Mt. Fuji. Of course, it’s a better experience if it’s the treat after you long hike!
Last edited by olafman; Jul 21, 2015 at 11:11 am
Jul 23, 2015, 9:09 am
#23
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Digital Nomad
Programs: AA2MM LIFETIME PLT, Turkish Miles&Smiles Elite, Marriott Plat
Posts: 1,024
PART 6: Second half of Tokyo, Japan
We took a bus back into Tokyo since it is faster and cheaper than the train. Since we only had one night I booked us into the Tokyo Hilton conveniently located within walking distance of the Shinbuku station where our bus arrived. I love using the Hilton app to choose exactly which room I want. I had a nice trapezoidal room that was big for Tokyo standards. Since I’m not a fan of the roll away bed, I booked the boys their own room and enjoyed the solitude.
The kids all went to this electronics/gaming area with lots of shops and things that they had visited previously. Jane and I were perfectly happy hanging out at the pool and catching up on the NY Times. We thought it funny that we were required to wear swim hats over our hair. Ester Williams eat your heart out.
All ready Japanese style to swim
For dinner that night we went to the nearby BBQ restaurant Jojoen. It seems like we had a different style of food for each of our meals. The kids voted this their favorite meal. They especially liked the pork which was much cheaper than the beef we started with. It was a great last evening in Japan and our last dinner with Koji and Tom.
Let’s call it sweet potato vodka on the rocks. Not bad!
Our group’s last meal in Japan together
Celebrating Corbin’s 16th birthday a week early
The final morning we got up early and traveled over to Tsujiki Fish Market for a sushi breakfast. The truly dedicated will go at 5 a.m. for the lottery to attend the fish auction. We’re not that dedicated. We simply toured the market at 8 a.m. and joined the locals and tourists for a very fresh sushi breakfast. Some of the stalls had super long lines. We simply chose one that had a crowd but no wait. The sushi was spectacular and we ate like gluttons.
That’s a big fish
Our Japanese breakfast diner
Tuna sashimi
Koji and Tom look on at our sushi
This ain’t your typical Denny’s Grand Slam breakfast
Enjoying some miso soup
T-shirts and sushi
Our final stop in Tokyo was to the National Art Museum in Roppongi for an exhibit on anime that all three kids really enjoyed. Jane and I walked through quickly and enjoyed a nice coffee while we waited for them.
The kids really liked this anime exhibit
A dedication to Mario
Overall, our visit to Japan was amazing. We ate incredible food, climbed a beautiful mountain and experienced Japanese culture. All of us want to come back one day for more fun in the land of the rising sun.
The kids all went to this electronics/gaming area with lots of shops and things that they had visited previously. Jane and I were perfectly happy hanging out at the pool and catching up on the NY Times. We thought it funny that we were required to wear swim hats over our hair. Ester Williams eat your heart out.
All ready Japanese style to swim
For dinner that night we went to the nearby BBQ restaurant Jojoen. It seems like we had a different style of food for each of our meals. The kids voted this their favorite meal. They especially liked the pork which was much cheaper than the beef we started with. It was a great last evening in Japan and our last dinner with Koji and Tom.
Let’s call it sweet potato vodka on the rocks. Not bad!
Our group’s last meal in Japan together
Celebrating Corbin’s 16th birthday a week early
The final morning we got up early and traveled over to Tsujiki Fish Market for a sushi breakfast. The truly dedicated will go at 5 a.m. for the lottery to attend the fish auction. We’re not that dedicated. We simply toured the market at 8 a.m. and joined the locals and tourists for a very fresh sushi breakfast. Some of the stalls had super long lines. We simply chose one that had a crowd but no wait. The sushi was spectacular and we ate like gluttons.
That’s a big fish
Our Japanese breakfast diner
Tuna sashimi
Koji and Tom look on at our sushi
This ain’t your typical Denny’s Grand Slam breakfast
Enjoying some miso soup
T-shirts and sushi
Our final stop in Tokyo was to the National Art Museum in Roppongi for an exhibit on anime that all three kids really enjoyed. Jane and I walked through quickly and enjoyed a nice coffee while we waited for them.
The kids really liked this anime exhibit
A dedication to Mario
Overall, our visit to Japan was amazing. We ate incredible food, climbed a beautiful mountain and experienced Japanese culture. All of us want to come back one day for more fun in the land of the rising sun.
Jul 27, 2015, 10:51 am
#26
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Digital Nomad
Programs: AA2MM LIFETIME PLT, Turkish Miles&Smiles Elite, Marriott Plat
Posts: 1,024
PART 7: ANA 787 Economy NRT-PEK (an economy flight once in a while keeps me humble)
Not all travel always goes the way you planned. Today’s journey to China would turn out to be one of those instances.
We traveled on the Narita Express train and reached the airport in about 80 minutes. At check-in, the agent struggled a bit. It seemed like she had not processed many people using China’s new free, 72-hour transit visit. Lots of instruction books, phone calls and advice from other agents finally got us our boarding passes. I had paid special attention that we did not exceed more than 72 hours on the ground. We arrived around 9:00 p.m. on Thursday night and then would be flying out well before that time on Sunday giving us two full days to explore Beijing.
This would also be the only flight I booked in Economy this trip. Since it was a mid-trip flight, I had to purchase a separate ticket for us. Even the best of us Flyertalkers fly in the back of the bus from time to time. I, too, can be humble. I was excited because it would be my first 787 experience.
After clearing security, I took the boys into the KAL Lounge at nearby Gate 26. With my Citi Prestige card I get a Priority Pass membership which allows two additional guests. This is a much better deal than the AMEX Platinum Priority Pass. The lounge was basic but did the trick.
Unfortunately we had to be bused to our plane but I didn’t mind since that gave me a great opportunity to view the new plane and shoot a picture. While it is not as majestic as my favorite 747, I like the curvy wings!
Our 787 waiting at a far end of the Narita airport waiting to take us to Beijing
We boarded and settled into our seats. Soon we would be on our way to China. Or so I thought.
A very polite ANA representative came to my seat and asked if I was Mr. Haley. She explained that I would not be able to travel to Beijing because my flight leaving China did not meet the requirements of the visa. All five of us were entering on a flight from Narita. Jane and all the kids would be leaving on a flight via Seoul to SFO. I booked my flight after them and found a nice flight via Haneda. The issue is that you can’t transit to China to and from the same country. Also you can’t use Hong Kong or Taiwan coming or going on this visa. This was totally my fault and had thought that since it was a different airport that it was still transit.
So we are on the tarmac ready to go and she wants me to get off the plane saying that the Chinese authorities will not let me know. Being a quick thicker, I pull out my mobile and offer to buy a ticket to another country! I’m flexible. She went off and to check someone. Meanwhile, I brought up Expedia and found lots of flight from Beijing to Seoul. I figured that Seoul was the closest foreign city to Beijing. From their I could change my ticket home. Hopefully.
She returned and said if I could do this quickly then it would work. The flight was already delayed and they could not delay it any more. As she stood there and the entire plane watched on, I quickly chose a morning flight which would allow me more options to get back to SFO later that day. And with the click of a button, I had a new flight and she was appeased. They apologized for the delay on the PA and off to China we went.
This whole event unsettled me a bit but it was really not a big deal. I sat back and tried to enjoy my first trip on a 787. The windows are beautifully large and the cabin interior is bright and spacious. I can’t say I noticed the difference in pressurization that is often spoken of. It seemed like a nice new plane.
About half way through our flight, the purser stopped by my seat and knelt down next to me. Not a good sign. She said that there is a problem and that I was to remain seated and not get off the plane.
DAMN!! My brain started to think about some Plan B’s. Would ANA not let me off the plane and make me return to NRT? Should Corbin and the boys come with me? Should they stay with Jane and Abby and start Beijing without me with hopes that I could fly there the next day?
I went up to speak to Jane in Business Class. I explained everything that had happened and talked through some scenarios. She was a little shocked and confused but I had to get her up to date in case I wasn’t allowed to leave the plane.
For the rest of the flight I sat in my seat, AN ECONOMY SEAT, and processed what might happen. I gave Corbin $300 and a credit card. I also passed along all the information on their flights home, the hotel in Beijing and our guide we had booked while in Beijing. This was really throwing a wrench into things.
The other unnerving thing was that two other flight attendants stopped by my seat to confirm that I understood that I was not to leave the plane. This was not looking good. At least I wasn’t handcuffed!
So we landed and I hugged the boys goodbye and sat in my seat as instructed. It took a while to deplane our 787 and I was anxious to see what would happen.
At one point once the plane was almost empty, Corbin came bouncing back saying that there was a man with a sign with my name on it outside. I told him that I needed to wait and that he should head to passport control with the others. Finally the purser came to me with a rather serious looking official. He spoke no English but the flight attendant tried to translate. There was a problem with the flight I had booked. But the serious man was leading me off the plane. This was a much better option than me staying on the plane.
He handed me off to a very smiley, young Air Canada employee who explained in broken English that I had booked a flight to Seoul via another Chinese city which is not allowed for this visa. Ugh! I my haste to book quickly I hadn’t noticed that it was a connecting flight!! He said that they had rebooked me on a different Air China flight but he was not sure that the passport people would accept the change and let me in.
He escorted me to passport control where we waited in line with everyone else. When we finally reached the front, I spoke first and the Air China guy filled in the details. The passport control guy looked through my passport and then shook his head no.
He directed us to another line on the side which was serving the disabled passengers. We stood there for a long while and as we did, everyone on the 72 hour visa program were also being directed there. At the front Mr. Air China and I explained again what happened. The passport guy seemed uninterested in all of it, stamped my passport and sent us off. YAHOOOOOO!!!
Next though I had to get my bag and then go pay for the new nonstop ticket. Since Jane and Abby had checked their bag, I had also checked mine uncharacteristically. I think in the end that weighed in my favor because when ANA wanted to offload me, they would have had to find my bag which would have taken a while.
My bag was happily waiting for me on the carousel and we quickly went upstairs and I bought the new ticket. Actually I was able to use the funds from my connecting ticket and only had to pay $10 more! Bargain.
Now I just need to figure out how to get home from Seoul and I’ll be all set. This is not a big deal for a Flyertalker. Just more travel fun!
We traveled on the Narita Express train and reached the airport in about 80 minutes. At check-in, the agent struggled a bit. It seemed like she had not processed many people using China’s new free, 72-hour transit visit. Lots of instruction books, phone calls and advice from other agents finally got us our boarding passes. I had paid special attention that we did not exceed more than 72 hours on the ground. We arrived around 9:00 p.m. on Thursday night and then would be flying out well before that time on Sunday giving us two full days to explore Beijing.
This would also be the only flight I booked in Economy this trip. Since it was a mid-trip flight, I had to purchase a separate ticket for us. Even the best of us Flyertalkers fly in the back of the bus from time to time. I, too, can be humble. I was excited because it would be my first 787 experience.
After clearing security, I took the boys into the KAL Lounge at nearby Gate 26. With my Citi Prestige card I get a Priority Pass membership which allows two additional guests. This is a much better deal than the AMEX Platinum Priority Pass. The lounge was basic but did the trick.
Unfortunately we had to be bused to our plane but I didn’t mind since that gave me a great opportunity to view the new plane and shoot a picture. While it is not as majestic as my favorite 747, I like the curvy wings!
Our 787 waiting at a far end of the Narita airport waiting to take us to Beijing
We boarded and settled into our seats. Soon we would be on our way to China. Or so I thought.
A very polite ANA representative came to my seat and asked if I was Mr. Haley. She explained that I would not be able to travel to Beijing because my flight leaving China did not meet the requirements of the visa. All five of us were entering on a flight from Narita. Jane and all the kids would be leaving on a flight via Seoul to SFO. I booked my flight after them and found a nice flight via Haneda. The issue is that you can’t transit to China to and from the same country. Also you can’t use Hong Kong or Taiwan coming or going on this visa. This was totally my fault and had thought that since it was a different airport that it was still transit.
So we are on the tarmac ready to go and she wants me to get off the plane saying that the Chinese authorities will not let me know. Being a quick thicker, I pull out my mobile and offer to buy a ticket to another country! I’m flexible. She went off and to check someone. Meanwhile, I brought up Expedia and found lots of flight from Beijing to Seoul. I figured that Seoul was the closest foreign city to Beijing. From their I could change my ticket home. Hopefully.
She returned and said if I could do this quickly then it would work. The flight was already delayed and they could not delay it any more. As she stood there and the entire plane watched on, I quickly chose a morning flight which would allow me more options to get back to SFO later that day. And with the click of a button, I had a new flight and she was appeased. They apologized for the delay on the PA and off to China we went.
This whole event unsettled me a bit but it was really not a big deal. I sat back and tried to enjoy my first trip on a 787. The windows are beautifully large and the cabin interior is bright and spacious. I can’t say I noticed the difference in pressurization that is often spoken of. It seemed like a nice new plane.
About half way through our flight, the purser stopped by my seat and knelt down next to me. Not a good sign. She said that there is a problem and that I was to remain seated and not get off the plane.
DAMN!! My brain started to think about some Plan B’s. Would ANA not let me off the plane and make me return to NRT? Should Corbin and the boys come with me? Should they stay with Jane and Abby and start Beijing without me with hopes that I could fly there the next day?
I went up to speak to Jane in Business Class. I explained everything that had happened and talked through some scenarios. She was a little shocked and confused but I had to get her up to date in case I wasn’t allowed to leave the plane.
For the rest of the flight I sat in my seat, AN ECONOMY SEAT, and processed what might happen. I gave Corbin $300 and a credit card. I also passed along all the information on their flights home, the hotel in Beijing and our guide we had booked while in Beijing. This was really throwing a wrench into things.
The other unnerving thing was that two other flight attendants stopped by my seat to confirm that I understood that I was not to leave the plane. This was not looking good. At least I wasn’t handcuffed!
So we landed and I hugged the boys goodbye and sat in my seat as instructed. It took a while to deplane our 787 and I was anxious to see what would happen.
At one point once the plane was almost empty, Corbin came bouncing back saying that there was a man with a sign with my name on it outside. I told him that I needed to wait and that he should head to passport control with the others. Finally the purser came to me with a rather serious looking official. He spoke no English but the flight attendant tried to translate. There was a problem with the flight I had booked. But the serious man was leading me off the plane. This was a much better option than me staying on the plane.
He handed me off to a very smiley, young Air Canada employee who explained in broken English that I had booked a flight to Seoul via another Chinese city which is not allowed for this visa. Ugh! I my haste to book quickly I hadn’t noticed that it was a connecting flight!! He said that they had rebooked me on a different Air China flight but he was not sure that the passport people would accept the change and let me in.
He escorted me to passport control where we waited in line with everyone else. When we finally reached the front, I spoke first and the Air China guy filled in the details. The passport control guy looked through my passport and then shook his head no.
He directed us to another line on the side which was serving the disabled passengers. We stood there for a long while and as we did, everyone on the 72 hour visa program were also being directed there. At the front Mr. Air China and I explained again what happened. The passport guy seemed uninterested in all of it, stamped my passport and sent us off. YAHOOOOOO!!!
Next though I had to get my bag and then go pay for the new nonstop ticket. Since Jane and Abby had checked their bag, I had also checked mine uncharacteristically. I think in the end that weighed in my favor because when ANA wanted to offload me, they would have had to find my bag which would have taken a while.
My bag was happily waiting for me on the carousel and we quickly went upstairs and I bought the new ticket. Actually I was able to use the funds from my connecting ticket and only had to pay $10 more! Bargain.
Now I just need to figure out how to get home from Seoul and I’ll be all set. This is not a big deal for a Flyertalker. Just more travel fun!
Jul 28, 2015, 8:18 am
#27
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 89
Great tripreport! Thank you very much! Glad you were allowed to enter China.
Just one correction. Hong Kong, Taiwan and Macao do count as a third country.
Just one correction. Hong Kong, Taiwan and Macao do count as a third country.
Jul 31, 2015, 12:50 pm
#29
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Digital Nomad
Programs: AA2MM LIFETIME PLT, Turkish Miles&Smiles Elite, Marriott Plat
Posts: 1,024
But the lady said no.