zcat18

Quick question--was the beer you were drinking earlier in the report non-alcoholic, or is the alcohol ban just lightly enforced?

rivlinm

As I mentioned I had eagerly awaited visiting Isfahan specifically because of the bridges today had in store. Along with some cream and more carrot jam, I decided to try the most visually unappetizing eggs ever. Not as bad as they looked.


Scrambled eggs?

While the bridges were certainly the main attraction for the day we began by crossing Imam Square (with the fountains in full effect) and over toward Hasht Behesht Garden.


Imam Mosque beyond the Imam Square fountains


Volleyball in Hasht Behesht Garden

Within Hasht Behesht Garden lies Hasht Behesht Palace, meaning Eight Paradises. The name comes from the 20 octagonal rooms symmetrically placed in the palace. Also, it was said the kings at the time housed 8 different women and depending on his mood would request to see whomever best fit the occasion. The palace is the only remaining of more than 40 Safavid era mansions around Isfahan. Built in the mid 17th century it is structurally dilapidated with the second floor closed to the public.


Hasht Behesht (Eight Paradises) Palace


Current state of disrepair

Along the west side of the garden runs Charhar Bagh Abbasi St, one of the most historical roads in Iran, dating back to the 16th century. We walked along the vibrant street until we reached the Abbasi Hotel. This 5-star hotel labels itself as the oldest hotel in the world and was originally built over 300 years ago as a caravansary or roadside inn to allow travelers the opportunity to rest. Eventually it was gifted to a seminary to help them raise funds and only recently (1950s) did it become a modern hotel by today’s definition. Prices range from 2,543,400 IRR (~$72) for a single person to 11,000,000 IRR (~$315) for the Safavid Suite. The hotel is very welcoming of tourists just wishing to see the property as a destination and we relaxed in their tranquil courtyard for a bit.


Charhar Bagh Abbasi St.


Abbasi Hotel


Hotel lobby


Hotel registration


Courtyard


Courtyard water

Just a 5-minute stroll from the Abbasi Hotel was the first bridge sighting. Across Iran a gross mismanagement of water resources over the last century has left the Zayandeh River nearly a dry bed. I was unsure weather I would be lucky enough to see water beneath the bridges and was pleasantly surprised each bridge had a fair amount of water, at least on one side. Although we were nearest to Siosepol Bridge, we continued eastward to first explore Khaju Bridge.

Along the 15-minute walk we saw many Iranians enjoying their Friday morning under the sun. Many were having an early lunch or a glass of tea. Some families nearly brought half of their kitchen.


Siosepol Bridge on our walk to Khaju Bridge


Beautiful walkway along river


Partially dry Zayandeh River; looking south


Exercise equipment


Perfectly manicured park along the river


Football in the park


Less popular Jey Bridge


Flute playing and singing bridge side…


…with quite an audience to boot

After a marvelous stroll along the river we finally made it to Khaju Bridge. Built by Shah Abbas II around the middle of the 17th century, Khaju the bridge served as both bridge and dam. The pavilion situated mid span would have served as a seating area for the King as he observed the city. The 24 arches span over 130 meters. Because of its dam capabilities the west side of the river had much more water than the east side. I spent an hour walking around and observing the locals enjoy their landmark.


Khaju Bridge


Westside


Eastside


Crossing the bridge


Archway


Outer walkways


Steps on the eastside


Venturing to the middle of the river


Center-span hangout for the King


Underneath the bridge


Family photo bomb


Testing the waters


Snack time


Bridge from the park

Getting hungry we decided to walk back toward Siosepol and find lunch on Charhar Bagh Abbasi St.


Cards; likely playing Pasur


Lunch in the park


B.Y.O.P.R.; Bring Your Own Persian Rug

Our restaurant (like many in Iran) made its own nan, and while we had to wait a bit it certainly didn’t lack any freshness. Enjoyed chicken wings, lentil soup and the oh so buttery Persian rice.


Nan machine


Chicken wings


Lentil soup


Persian rice

Before heading back to Siosepol Bridge Arya treated me to some ice cream.


Saffron ice cream

After the brief tease earlier in the morning, I finally had my opportunity to see and fully enjoy Isfahan’s longest bridge. Siosepol, literally Bridge of 33 Arches, was built at the very end of the 16th century under the rule of Shah Abbas I and spans a vast 300 meters. Until the water shortage become a deterrent, the bridge housed many tea shops underneath. I had wanted to see the bridge in both daylight and lit under the night sky, so I knew we would be here for a number of hours and I set out to explore and take in the scenes. As you may notice, I took too many photos.



Siosepol Bridge


25 of 33 arches


Getting busy following Friday prayer


Arch hopping


Beginning the journey across


Outer walkways


Looking westward


Midspan


Looking downward on an arch


People watching people watchers


Romance


Friends


The only commercial experience anywhere near the bridge


Brahs


Dedication or stupidity?


Talking in the alcove


Looking down the length of the bridge from underneath


Helping hand


So close…


Harvard hookah


Biking and texting


Happy to take out the trash


Swan Lake; one of my favorite photos from the entire trip


Edge dweller

At this point it was getting cold as the sun began to dip below the tree line and many people were packing up after a relaxing Friday on the water. We still had maybe an hour until the lights came on and I could go warm up!


First hint of lights


Getting darker


The water makes a world of difference; sad to think how it would look with dirt beneath its arches


One last look across the river

Upset that I wouldn’t get to see the bridges under true darkness but relieved I could go warm up and have dinner, we headed back toward the hotel.

As we walked the streets nearly every shop owner was glued to their tv with a football match showing. I made it back to the hotel to have a tea and watch the second half of the Sepahan 1-0 win at Foolad.


Iranian Persian Gulf League

On my first night in Isfahan I had some difficulty with my hotel room lock and after asking the front desk for assistance, I spent over an hour talking with the two Iranian gentlemen working the desk. Their genuine attitude and frank responses shocked me as I asked question after question. One fact I found fascinating was their hotel typically only has an American guest about once a month. By the end of our conversation Mohammad had invited me to have tea the following evening after his shift. Unfortunately I spent too much time buying candy and we had to reschedule for my last night in Isfahan. Again however, we were late getting back but my guide was kind enough to call and Mohammad said he would be by shortly.

When he arrived he mentioned his sister, Leila had joined him. Buried deep in the Isfahan Bazar was an authentic tea house, (Azadegan Tea House) which had more artifacts than the British Museum, but hadn’t been cleaned since before the time of the Shah. Over a few cups of tea with some saffron sugar cubes and elephant ears as a snack we had a great conversation. Mohammad studied in India for 8 years and is looking to attend Stony Brook University in New York for a PhD program, so he asked many questions about life in NYC. Over the evening we covered the full gamut of topics including family life, living during the Iran-Iraq war and lighter topics involving pop culture. We even watched some illegal videos on the internet. With the tea long gone, but not wanting to part ways we decided ice cream was the next best thing. And for those who can’t handle ice cream in the winter there is always hot corn!


Tea house


Tea, saffron sugar and elephant ears


Ice cream shop hot corn


Ice cream two times in one day!

As we enjoyed our ice cream we wandered down Chahar Bagh Abbasi Street and before I knew it we were at Siosepol Bridge. Day or night it’s a magnificent site, but with the lights reflecting off the river and birds grouped overhead, it was a marvelous place to talk until after midnight. (By far the latest I had stayed up while in Iran). I needed some sleep before we departed for Kashan a few hours later and Mohammad had to be back at the hotel at 7:00 to check me out! After one last snack (Zaban) we headed back to the hotel, but not before exchanging numbers to keep in touch.


Mohammad & Liela


:30 seconds of Siosepol Bridge


Birds over Siosepol


Zaban

rivlinm

Thanks and hopefully one day you get the opportunity!

No alcohol for me. Beer and soda cost the same price. I got the impression it wouldn't be all that difficult to import personal amounts of alcohol if you are wealthy and travel often, but otherwise it seems you would have to make your own.

mpkz

Great report so far. You're retracing a few trips I did last year, so also looking forward to reading about your time in Oman and UAE (I did two separate trips, 11 days in Iran, then 10 days in UAE/Oman (mostly Oman))

Amazingly friendly people (but I already knew that :P)

What the bridge looks like with dirt under it, the way I saw it:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d2efqdC40e..._18_04_Pro.jpg

greg99

Wow - what an amazing trip and an amazing report.

Thank you so much for sharing so many details.

Greg

DL17

Awesome pictures. The 33 pol bridge looks great at night

rivlinm

On short rest I rushed through breakfast to ensure I wouldn’t be late to meet Arya and our driver in the lobby. Of course as fate would have it, our driver decided he didn’t feel like driving today; or even telling us. So for an hour I sat in the lobby as Arya scrambled to find a driver to take us to Kashan via a brief detour to Abyaneh. For those interested, the going rate for this particular drive from a taxi off the street is approximately $60. However this change of plans allowed me to experience my first CNG (compressed natural gas) refilling station. Unbeknownst to me, Iran has the most CNG equipped vehicles of any nation in the world with 3.5 million. The refilling process apparently is dangerous as all passengers are suggested to exit the vehicle before approaching the full-service pump.


CNG filling station


CNG pump

Finally underway, we continued our trek north. Abyaneh, often recognized as one of the oldest villages in Iran is best known for its tiered red houses. While its population varies with the seasons, its last estimate came in around 300. The terrain leading up to Abyaneh is unique in that it mixes hues of green, red and brown rock. We spent approximately 30 minutes roaming the small streets of the mostly desolate village before continuing onward toward Kashan. Along the way we passed an area I was firmly asked not to take any photos of. The road, lined with anti-aircraft tanks and artillery, bordered what I was told was a nuclear plant. It took more restraint than I thought I had not to sneak a photo.

Curiosity got the best of me and a bit of research indicated we drove by the underground Natanz Fuel Enrichment Plant. When Alireza Jafarzadeh blew the whistle on this once unknown facility it led to the IAEA uncovering the construction of over 1,000 centrifuges and eventually the US, EU and UN sanctions.


Photo Credit: Hamed Saber via Wikipedia
The facility I wasn’t brave enough to photograph myself


Road to Abyaneh


Variety of colored terrain


Abyaneh


Abyaneh style construction


The streets of Abyaneh

Upon arrival to Kashan in the early afternoon, we scrambled to find a place serving lunch, finally settling on a hotel, but not mine. I chose the lamb kebab over the fish and washed it down with what would be my last doogh in the Islamic Republic. Afterward we walked across the street to my actual hotel (saving money I suspect) and checked in before trying to hunt down a taxi or bus to the city center. While waiting for the bus, which never came, we found a stylish taxi with zero open seats and piled in for the ride to Agha Bozorg Mosque. Kashan’s top mosque, built in the 18th century, also serves as a theological school.


Lamb and doogh


Negarestan hotel


My most modern accommodation in Iran


Standard Iranian hotel amenity


Lacking personal space


Exiting the spacious 7-seat sedan


Banana break


Agha Bozorg Mosque


Agha Bozorg minaret


Inside Agha Bozorg Mosque





Arya wanted some yogurt for himself so we stopped off at a shop before we headed toward the Tabatabaei Historical House.


The Nutcracker


Weighing yogurt in a bag

Kashan, a smaller more conservative city of about 250,000, is best known for its production of rose water and carpets, home to the majority of Iran’s carpet making factories. Site wise, they city is home to many opulent 19th century historical houses built for the affluent businessmen of the time. Tabatabaei Historical House was constructed around 1880 and home to the Tabatabaei family. It’s many courtyards, stained-glass windows and traditional Persian architecture contribute to it being one of the most popular historical houses within Kashan. (Others being Abbasi House, Ameri House and Borujerdi House).


Entrance


Primary courtyard


’Basement’


Courtyard


Stucco work


Stained glass

I’ll never know if it was lack of time or interest, but Arya dashed my hopes of visiting the museum just next door.


Missed opportunities

Nearing sunset we found a bus back and I had to alert Arya we had arrived or we would have ridden right past the hotel. The bus was packed and looked much like other major public transit but oddly you pay your fare when you exit, rather than on entry.


Kashan bus


Kashan twilight

Having added an extra day, my entry fees and lunch were my responsibility for tomorrow so Arya suggested what to see and eat (on my own!) and was very serious in cautioning me to be careful when crossing the street. Even though the road hardly had any traffic. With his lesson on Iranian safety complete we parted ways until our drive to Qom and IKA the next afternoon. Tired from little sleep the night before I decided to dine in the hotel and call it a night. I should have ventured back downtown in hindsight.

The hotel’s restaurant could accommodate maybe 200 and at 18:25 there was no one in sight. I had a seat and waved down an employee asking for the menu. He said, “No dinner.” Confused I went to the front desk to inquire if I could have dinner and was informed dinner does not begin until 18:30. With that intelligence, I sat back down and just two minutes later was able to place my order. I tried one last lamb kebab and asked for a pot of tea, but was told tea is only served upstairs in the tea room. Thankfully someone broke the rules and walked down the stairs with a pot of hot tea! Shortly before I finished eating a number of buses dropped of at least 100 Chinese tourists for dinner.


The last supper

Spymon

Great work so far, I can't wait to read the rest of it. Your TR is really well presented with a good mix of text and photos. Your experience in Iran mirrors that of my in-laws who did a trip there a year or two ago, though they did it on their tandem bike!

LeisureClassy

Thanks for the great report so far! It looks like a delicious trip, and I love all the shots of the beautiful tile work!

rivlinm

With not much planned for the morning before the final leg north toward IKA I slept in a bit and had a relaxing breakfast before wandering down the street about 1km to explore Fin Gardens.


One last cream and tomato burrito

The original location of this historical Persian garden is often disputed and mostly unknown. Thought to date to the Safavid era, the modern expansion of the garden was the work of Shah Abbas in the late 16th century. For centuries it was abandoned and left in a sad state. In the time of Reza Shah the government made an effort to restore and UNESCO declared it a World Heritage Site in just 2012. Beyond its beauty it’s best known for being the scene of Amir Kabir’s assassination. In 1852 King Nassereddin Shah ordered the murder in the baths. He had requested the murder multiple times, but often reneged when he would come to his senses. This time however, while intoxicated he was convinced to sign the order and by the time he tried to reverse it, the deed had been done.


Fin Historical Garden


Garden within the garden


Central garden structure


When coins carry no value, use paper notes!


Natural fountains with no mechanical pumps function because of nearby spring


Backside of garden


Safavid hammam; site of Amir Kabir’s assassination

There wasn’t all that much to do early in the morning as the town seemed to be slow to wake up, but on my walk back to the hotel, some shops were coming to life. Still with a few hours before I had to meet Arya I organized my belongings and packed the massive amounts of gaz, sohan, ghotab and other sweets I had acquired along the way. I then wandered back down the street toward the garden to enjoy lunch in a local spot that looked welcoming.


Football graffiti


One of many rosewater shops along this stretch of the street


Getting an early start on Christmas decorations


Free sepia filter

Comfortably seated on the all too common Persian rug ‘benches’ I ordered half a skewer of chicken along with some nan, yogurt and a pot of tea. The total cost of 115,000 IRR (~$3.30) used the last of my Rials, besides the small bills I brought home for a keepsake. The chef was very friendly and ended up sitting with me as I finished my meal and discussed my trip and America.


The kitchen


Chicken skewer

Once again, I trekked back toward the hotel to meet Arya and our driver. Along the way a school bus was dropping children off and after I took a photo of the bus they all began yelling, in English, out the window as they drove away. Most of them yelled, “I love you.” over and over.


Big green bus


Walking home

Still having plenty of time before my 21:20 flight to DXB we had agreed upon a stop in Qom and a brief opportunity to snap a photo at the Imam Khomeini Mausoleum just north of the airport.


Rosewater down


Toll booth


Qom monorail; used to connect the city to the mosque for Friday prayer

Qom, along with Mashhad, is a highly conservative and religious city. Situated just 125 km south of Tehran it is home to many of the country’s mullahs. We parked on the side of the highway and climbed up to a walkway overlooking the complex and its entry. Officially being open only to Muslims meant I wouldn’t need much time, nor would I see much. The main attraction is the shrine of the sister of the 8th Imam, Imam Reza. The shrine of Fatimah Masumeh, as well as the shrine of Imam Reza in Mashhad, is one of the holiest sites in Shiite Islam and a common pilgrimage destination. Unfortunately not being able to enter the complex containing the shrine, and the Grand Mosque of Qom being slightly larger, meant I hardly had a view of the famous gold dome. In fact I had no view, just the tips of the minarets. The city of Qom itself seemed like a vibrant bustling city with much more conservative dress and behavior than say Tehran.


Shrine of Fatimah Masumeh Minarets peaking over the Qom Grand Mosque


Side view of the Qom Grand Mosque


Repairing the dome of the Qom Grand Mosque


Additional mosques on the far side of the complex

Just before we left a group of men were carrying a deceased individual out and I was told this is a common wish among the religious to have their body brought to Qom before burial.


”Qom is the city of the family of the Prophet Mohammed”

Just outside of Tehran we needed a top up of CNG and killed some time at a local rest area.


Mahtab Rest Area


Scene just south of IKA

About 20km north of the airport was the Mausoleum of Imam Khomeini, the Republic’s first Leader. Following his death in 1989, construction on the site began and is still underway. In addition to his tomb, the 5,000 acre site is expected to be home to housing, shopping and a university for Islamic studies.


Imam Khomeini Mausoleum entrance


Imam Khomeini Mausoleum


Inside the complex

With that, my journey through Iran was nearly complete. 20km later we were back at the airport and I said farewell and expressed my gratitude for Arya’s (and his country’s) hospitality over the last 9 days. He saw me though airport security, but beyond that is another story.


Similar to what I was unable to photograph outside Kashan


IKA


IR office; although their main office still remains in THR


Walkway to terminal


Farewell Arya

palmjet

Absolutely loving your trip report so far - commentary and pics really bring your journey to life. It seems like you had a great time in Iran. Thanks for posting this - now waiting for the next intstalment!

rivlinm

Much like the comical politics of my entry to the Islamic Republic of Iran, exiting wouldn’t be all that different. But I’ll get to that shortly.

Having just been dropped off I took a look around for the EK check-in desk and when I got there it was nearly empty. I presented my passport to the agent under the business sign, but she ushered me to the Iran Air employee beside her in the economy area. She typed away for a few moments and asked what flight I was on. I told her EK978 and she said check-in had not opened yet as its was still 3:30 till departure and they wouldn’t begin working on that flight for 30 more minutes. I then asked how to get to the CIP terminal and she asked if I was EK gold. I responded by pointing out business and she said she would see what she could do and asked me to have a seat. It didn’t look like she made much of an effort, but about 15 minutes later a gentleman approached me and asked me to follow him to the CIP lounge.


Inside IKA


EK checkin

We exited the security I had just cleared and went to the very curb I had been dropped off at just 20 minutes earlier. Waiting there however was the nicest vehicle in Iran. Another gentleman, the driver, placed my bags in the back and we were headed down the road 500m toward the new CIP terminal. I only wish I could have ridden that Volvo throughout my entire journey!


Curbside Volvo pickup


IKA CIP chauffeur


Amenities for the 2 minute ride


Driver and assistant

When we arrived my bags were whisked inside where a full team of agents who could not officially check me in yet wrote all of my details and collected my passport before welcoming me to take the elevator to the third floor and enjoy my visit. It appears the third floor is used as a sub-contract lounge for EK (they had EK branding throughout) and other VIP guests. While the service was professional since being picked up in the main terminal, it wasn’t particularly organized or efficient. Reminded me of a restaurant on its soft opening.


CIP facility


Waiting for elevator near checkin desk

Upstairs I found a nearly empty lounge with high ceilings, an adequate buffet and comfortable seating. I relaxed a bit after a long afternoon of driving and nibbled on some food with one final HeyDay (non alcoholic) beer.


Third floor


Lounge seating


Lounge chandelier


Dining area behind seating


Partial food and drink selection


Iranian and Western options


CIP soup and petit fours


Third floor duty free robot

About 30 minutes into my stay (no boarding pass nor passport yet) I was told this was the final call for boarding and I needed to hurry. I explained my flight departs at 21:20 and she walked away looking completely confused why I hadn’t rushed for the gate. Also on the third floor was a hallway indicating individual suites and even a VIP room.


VIP room

Full from eating too much lamb kebab and curious what the rest of the lounge offered I decided to go explore the first floor. Downstairs was a bit livelier and while it offered nearly identical seating, food and beverage and televisions, it also had a small selection of duty free shops selling candy, caviar and some other expensive looking handicrafts. Also the first floor was home to immigration and the gates that would lead us to the CIP bus.


View of the tarmac from the first floor


First floor


Samsung display; I’m fairly certain Samsung paid for this lounge!


First class candy shop


Staircase to second floor



Gate and immigration

Not finding anything worth staying downstairs for I headed back up to enjoy some more snacks before it was time to depart.


Second floor


Why would a 6 month old building even have monitors like that?


Saffron ice cream and one of 10+ Ice Monkey flavors


Saffron ice cream sandwich

Just as I was getting into Toy Story 3 in Persian, and only 5 minutes before boarding, I was given my boarding pass and told I could pick up my passport downstairs at immigration when I was ready to board.

Argo time!

I waited until nearly everyone had made their way down and discovered there were close to 40 people standing in the small hall leading to the one gate as the lounge staff tried to hand out passports. Mine was one of the first called and I queued for immigration and once my turn, handed my passport to the officer. He glanced through the passport thoroughly before looking between my photo page and myself no less than 15 times for 5 seconds each. Let the staring contest begin. I was willing to call it a draw before he asked me to please step aside and have a seat. Joy!

I sure hope that story about being a Canadian film scout seems legit! Fast forward 15 minutes as everyone else has cleared Immigration and security was screening its last passengers.

He called me back up and along with 4 other CIP lounge staff commenced round 2 of the showdown. After maybe 2 minutes one of the CIP staff mentioned he doesn’t believe my passport photo looks like me. I apologized and said it was and even offered to show him the original photo on my phone. The staff suggested maybe I laugh and show my teeth and with that the officer immediately conducts a full visual dental exam and approved me for departure from the Islamic Republic of Iran. I thank all of the staff and the officer for a fantastic experience in Iran and proceeded to security. Only one problem; the single screening agent has already left! After a brief game of charades with the staff they track him down and I scramble to gather my belongings and rush toward the EK bus waiting for me.


The Canadian Caper of 1393

Finally on the shuttle with one other passenger I felt awkward taking a photo, but I’m fairly certain the bus doubles as a mobile astronomy education facility.


Shuttle bus to EK 978

EK flight 978
Tehran, Iran (IKA) to Dubai, United Arab Emirates (DXB)
Depart 21:22, Arrive 00:25 (+1), Time 2:33
Boeing 777-300, Seat 7A

Onboard, I was shown my seat and I collapsed in excitement to have safely visited such a ‘dangerous’ country and exhausted from the last 30 minutes of unnecessary drama. The crew certainly didn’t help ease the anxiety in the air as they scurried around the cabin handling last minute formalities. I had to ask for my coat to be hung twice and it wasn’t even until they tried to serve my meal, and it was sitting on my tray table, that they finally obliged. My seat mate didn’t seem very concerned with helping as he was quite rude to the FA while he sent final messages on his three phones as we lifted off surprisingly just behind schedule.


EK 777-300 J seat 7A


2-3-2 across cradle seats on the 777


IFE


Pre-departure apple juice; almost looks like beer


Today’s flight map

Most folks fell asleep upon take off but I was slightly curious what Iranian catering would amount to but mostly just wanted to enjoy a beer. (I’ve gone much longer back home without drinking, but the novelty of drinking on a flight from Iran was too good to pass up.) I ordered the chicken and walnuts with Persian rice. About 30 minutes in, it was finally delivered along with a glass of water. Expecting drinks to be offered I waited a bit before finally giving up and using the call button to request a Midwestern beer in the Middle East.


The most un-chicken looking chicken was surprisingly good


Awful pour of my Budweiser over Iranian airspace

Knowing I had almost two more hours after landing before I would arrive at the Bab Al-Bahr in Abu Dhabi I decided to imbibe away! I started with a glass of red wine, and finished with 4 more glasses of red wine, all while having to request each with a ring of the call button. Due to traffic in DXB we were told to do donuts in the Persian Gulf for 45 minutes and eventually landed about 35 minutes behind schedule.


Real IFE


Donuts over the Persian Gulf

After deplaning via 2L a quick bus ride and fast pass landed me at the baggage belt where my bag had just come out as I approached. Relieved, since I never actually saw a bag tag placed on my bag in the CIP lounge, I headed to the EK chauffeur area to see if my AS ticket would still offer the service I had booked before their sudden rule change. All was good and before I knew it I was off on Sheikh Zayed Road toward Abu Dhabi.


EK Business bus


Iconic DXB terminal


Chauffeur service entry


Chaotic chauffeur loading zone

Along the 80-minute drive with a bit of fog and next-to-no traffic I acted as GPS for my driver and spoke to my parents letting them both know I had safely survived Iran rather than India. My mom, who I was meeting in an hour at the hotel, asked where Iran was and why I had wanted to go there. My dad, advised me to make better decisions in life, specifically regarding where I travel. I arrived at the hotel around 02:00 to be welcomed by my over energetic mother (she landed from ORD just hours before) who I would spend the next 9 days with exploring the Emirates and Oman.

(I’ll continue to push forward one day at a time with my reporting and will share my feedback of Iran, the flights and my other destinations at the trip’s conclusion; again, thanks for reading!)

GodAtum

I would love to visit but very scared I wont be able to get out.

Calchas

This is a capital trip report. ^ ^

I'm really enjoying it.

What camera are you using to take the pictures?

rivlinm

Having arrived to the Fairmont Bab al Bahr at 02:00 full of stories to share with my mom, who just hours earlier had arrived on an economy EY flight from ORD, I eventually fell asleep. Not having explored the room the night before I woke up in our upgraded suite on the Gold Floor with quite the view.


One time when not closing the blinds paid off

Only having two mostly full days to explore the Emirates' Capital city we were motivated to get going and not waste the day in our magnificent room. Slightly different accommodations than my previous week!


Living room


Entry to bedroom and dressing room


Bedroom with the view

The room also had a guest bathroom and spacious dressing area. Upon arrival we were given a welcome amenity of some dates, fruits and bottled water; in addition to the hotel’s complimentary bottled water. Just to make sure we were fueled up after a long day of traveling and before a longer day out in the hot desert sun we took advantage of the Gold Floor breakfast and again I had trouble chewing, as my jaw remained lowered in awe of the view of Sheikh Zayed Mosque.


Breakfast view; I’m not so sure this would ever get old


Breakfast

Fully nourished we headed out and requested a cab for the short ride to Sheikh Zayed Mosque. Named after, and built by, the country’s late leader, the Mosque was completed in 2007 after over ten years of design and construction. Its 35 ton single hand woven Iranian carpet is the largest in the world. Its chandelier may not be as grand as the IKA CIP lounge’s, but it’s still the third largest in the world.

Although my mother came prepared with long sleeves and hijab, we overlooked her capree pants and she still needed to rent clothing. They claim to ask for a 50 AED deposit and an ID, but she was able to use my ID and wasn’t asked for money. Many in line were without an ID and seemed at a loss for how to proceed. Even with the delay to get the clothing, we entered the mosque just in time to join a formal, free, tour. The tour, while a large group of maybe 50, was very informative and worth joining as it saved some waiting time and provided some better views within the mosque.


Nearing the grounds


Here comes the Grim Reaper


Outside pool


Inside the courtyard


Down the hallway


Very cold floral mosaic marble


Main prayer area


Looking back toward the entrance


The Mosque is striking from Bab al Bahr but not vice vera


Top of the dome


Minaret


Grand entry to the prayer hall


First room


Detail of wall relief


First inner dome


Prayer times


Main prayer hall with AC pillars


Minbar in front of the 99 names (attributes) of Allah


Allah


Underneath the chandelier, let’s hope the phantom took PTO today

[
Chandelier up close


Overall prayer hall


Qibla to the right


The carpet


Only tours are allowed in this open area

One tragic mistake I made (even in winter) was forgetting my sunglasses. Just like skiing on a sunny day, the marble surfaces of the lustrous Mosque are beyond blinding.


On the way out

We spent less than 90 minutes on the tour and exploring on our own, but certainly were impressed and having seen Persian design for the last 9 days, this certainly was a welcome change pace. We found a taxi and headed toward the corniche. It took about 20 minutes in the very clean and modern taxi and we were back out in the sun. Yes, I realize this is winter, but boy was it hot. We didn’t survive very long before we bee lined for the nearest shade.


Corniche Beach

Wanting to walk and see as much of the city on foot as we could, he headed west toward the Palace and took in the segmented skyline. It was a workday, but the city seemed rather deserted; even of tourists.


Walking along the Corniche


Service entry of the Emirates Palace Hotel


Etihad Towers from the lawn of the Palace

Not sure what to expect from the Palace as far as sites, and if they would even let us wander the grounds we decided to give it a shot. It seems they don’t restrict access to the public parts of the hotel, but its beach and room areas were well protected from us lowly Fairmont guests! I also didn’t realize this is a Kempinski managed property.


The Emirates Palace Hotel


Main atrium


Afternoon tea, intended to rival Burj al Arab (certainly in price but not in locale)


Rear view of the property; where we were refused access


Golden coffee?

While worth a look, if you aren’t willing to spend a small fortune, it doesn’t require much time. With that we headed to the Marina Mall and the big flag pole. Exciting destination, I know. Our original goal had been to find a ride to LuLu island, but it appears that is not longer an option without a private boat. I must say on a map the city looks very walkable, much like Copenhagen or Melbourne, but it’s not! I couldn’t imagine doing what we did in the summer.


Beautiful water on walk to Marina Mall protected by barbed wire


Marina Mall


Timbit pit stop one


Dubai Mall has nothing on this rink!

Growing bored of the mall (not really sure why we went in the first place other than to maybe find some food) and giving up on finding a way to LuLu Island, we conceded and decided to see why everyone spoke so poorly of Heritage Village and advised we not waste the time. As it turns out, they were right! Other than the decent views of the CBD along the walk, it was a force-fed inauthentic primer to Middle Eastern culture. Maybe would be more exciting for a family wishing to milk a cow or watch handcrafts be made, but for me I was beat and ready to go relax at the beach. Fortunately there was no cost and it allowed my mom to get a head start on her postcard scouting.


Heritage Village


Individual handicraft booths


View of the city from the village’s beach


Left to right: Nation Towers, ADNOC Headquarters and Emirates Towers in the distance

Unfortunately I couldn’t use jetlag as an excuse at this point in my trip, but my mom and I decided it was best to call it a day and head back to the hotel and relax poolside before dinner. Bab al Bahr has a very nice pool and a relaxing, but small, beach on Khor al Maqta.


Hotel exterior


Swim up bar


No deeper than about a meter


Beach facilities

In just a matter of an hour as the sun set we enjoyed a variety of vantage points of the Mosque.


Sunset over the Mosque while resting beachside


Water, sunsets and Mosques


Landing at the nearby executive airport; Al Bateen


Sunset from the room

We had missed the afternoon tea (14:00-16:00) on the Gold Floor while exploring the Heritage Village, but made it back in time to enjoy the evening canapés, which we soon discovered were going to be our dinner since there was so much on offer. Including an open bar from 18:30.


Round one of many

Although we were both on totally different clocks, my mom was wide awake and hungry and I was full and dead tired, she won out and we sampled a few sweets in the lounge before calling it a successful first day in the Emirates.


Sweet treats