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Kaiseki Meal on a Plane: SQ J SIN-HND and NH F Square NRT-LAX

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Old Mar 29, 2013, 3:03 am
  #1  
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Kaiseki Meal on a Plane: SQ J SIN-HND and NH F Square NRT-LAX

This trip report chronicles my return trip from Asia back to Canada, with the main portion being dedicated to the Japanese meal I had on 2 of Star Alliance's best airlines - Singapore Airlines and All Nippon Airways. It is a sequel to my last trip report:

From Mountains to Beaches: Canada - Korea - Japan - Singapore - Indonesia - Maldives


The first leg of the trip will bring me to Tokyo on SQ in their regional business class configuration. This will be followed by a one night stay in Hyatt Regency Tokyo. The main highlight of the report will be the ANA First Square cabin to LAX from NRT. Once in Los Angeles, I will write up about my experience in staying at the Hyatt properties in Long Beach before my final leg to Vancouver on United Airlines. Though I have no intention to copy the write-up on the last leg of the trip here.

Trip Report Index
Singapore Airlines Business SIN-HND
Hyatt Regency Tokyo
All Nippon Airways Suite Lounge at Narita
All Nippon Airways First Square NRT-LAX
Hyatt Regency and Hyatt the Pike Long Beach
United Airlines Domestic First LAX-YVR

I have posted the links to the respective blog post on the above trip report index. This is because I will not be posting the last instalment here since it is an ordinary N. American flight.

Last edited by quirrow; Apr 2, 2013 at 1:12 am Reason: Added links
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Old Mar 29, 2013, 3:08 am
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Singapore Airlines Business Class SIN-HND

This flight marked the start of my return trip and I would be taking Singapore Airlines back to Tokyo, and ANA to Los Angeles. The food and hospitality provided by the Japanese made me yearn for this trip as I will stay one night in Tokyo!

SQ636 Singapore SIN - Tokyo HND
STD-STA: 21:50-05:20
Actual: 22:12-05:08
Boeing 777-200 9V-SQL
Seat 12A

Very friendly check in agent started the experience for the flight and she was very helpful in answering my queries. It was a pleasant check in experience as always in the business class section for SQ flights.

There was no wait at all in immigration which is more like the norm in Changi so i just breezed my way airside and headed to the SilverKris lounge. Having been there before, it was another short walk from the passport control to the escalators leading to the 2nd floor and a walk past the KrisFlyer Gold Lounge.


Lounge Shower Room

Upon being welcomed into the lounge, my first priority was to get a shower and there was ample rooms for showers, though the shower room was a bit smaller than the one I was provided with in terminal 2. After refreshing myself, it was time for dinner as I was quite hungry, though the food selection seems subpar compared to my last visit in Terminal 2. Furthermore, the lounge ran out of the Cheng Tng that I wanted to try, so I headed out shortly after finishing my meal. But before that, I enquired if the flight has a Japanese meal as I wanted to change my book-the-cook meal to a Japanese meal. The customer service rep at the lounge helped me check my flight and told me to enquire aboard the flight.


Silver Kris Lounge Dining Area

Had to pass through security first at the gate and I noticed boarding has already started though there were still some people around. I proceeded to board and upon entering the plane, the business class cabin was already packed, which meant no photos of the cabin tonight especially since its such a short red eye flight. I think only 3 or 4 seats were empty in the flight and my seat mate was already seated. Somehow this seat mate reminds me of my university Econs professor in his appearance. However he chose to sleep through the flight after take-off, which meant a quiet flight even with a seat-mate.


Amenity Kit and Eye Shades

Due to the packed flight, the crew seemed particularly busy when i boarded. The stewardess serving my aisle was a Japanese lady and the business class cabin seems to be full of Japanese tourists and businessmen. Business class seems fully occupied for this late night flight, and thus the service was not comparable to other of my SQ flights. Furthermore the red-eye flight might also mean that the stewardess expected many to sleep through until arrival in Japan. They did still offer welcome drinks (I got another glass of Apple Bliss) and hot towels and on take-off, the crew distributed the amenity kits and eyeshades. Though considering my seat mate was already asleep, I recommend SQ just leaves the amenity kits and eyeshades in the seats so that passengers can use them immediately if they want to sleep.


Legroom on the Bulkhead Seat

The bulkhead Business class seat on the 777-200 seems to be more spacious compared to those on the Airbus A330, though there are certain differences in the seat controls and inflight entertainment system. The 777-200 is an older plane in SQ's fleet and thus the inflight entertainment (IFE) was the older version which has lower definition, less choices and generally subpar to many other IFE systems.


Iced Milo and Nuts

The crew took a second drink order and started with the meal service once we are in the air. I ordered Iced Mile and it was presented with a bowl of nuts before the main course. As I mentioned earlier, I changed my mind and decided for the Japanese meal instead of the Book-the-Cook meal that I had pre-ordered. The stewardess was very professional in her reply and mentions that they will need to wait until all passengers are catered for before making a decision. Since I know many of the passengers would not be dining, I did not worry about it. In the end I did get the Japanese Hanakoireki meal and it was composed of 2 bento boxes. The first box was served first and it comprised of the sakizuke of squid, jellyfish and spicy cod roe salad, a sunomono of torched yellowtail with ponzu jelly, and shiizakana of crabmeat terrine, with Udon as the carbs. The torched yellowtail with ponzu jelly was the highlight here and the udon can be very filling for such a late night flight.


The Japanese Bento Presentation


Ichino-jyu

The next box that was served contained saba sushi, takiawase of lilybud dumpling with quail and foie gras, kuchitori of black bean in pine needle Miso marinated egg yolk, yakimono of Grill miso marinated Spanish Mackerel, served with gohan and conger eel teriyaki, and a bowl of Miso Soup. With the udon, the rice served in the second bento was too much compared to the portion of the eel. The highlight in the second box was the grill mackerel and saba sushi, while the eel was a disappointment.


Nino-jyu

Overall, the Japanese meal had a multitude of flavours and was very traditional in taste though I suspect some of the ingredients used was not of the highest quality (particularly the eel). It was a very good meal though and I did not regret my decision to forgo my Book-the-Cook meal. Another note is that this dish is very filling and much more so in the late night flight. I suggest less carbs or a more simplified bento with higher quality food as that would be more fitting for a supper. Throughout the meal, I asked for green tea as my beverage and the beverage service was noticeably less visible, again something attributable to a busy and red-eye flight.


Mizugashi of Chestnut Cake with Grapes

The finale for the meal was a dessert of chestnut cake and when I asked for fruits to go along with the meal, the stewardess said no fruits were loaded on this flight though they had some grapes which I was able to get in addition to the cake. The chestnut cake was good as dessert but I would not say it was spectacular.


Older Inflight Entertainment Controls

I reclined my seat and was able to get a pretty good sleep, waking up only when the cabin lights was lit up in preparation for the descent as I got woken up by the pilot's announcement. The flight actually arrived earlier than expected in Haneda, and this meant a very short flight that might be very tiring since it is not possible to sleep for a long time. Though the early landing meant I was one of the first to disembark. Even by detouring to take a photo of the plane, I was able to pass by the passport control, collected my luggage and onboard the airport limousine bus to Shinjuku within 25 minutes. Wonderful efficiency from the Japanese!


Singapore Airlines 777-200 at Haneda

The short overnight flight reminds me once again why I hate red-eye flights. On paper it sounds good as you don't waste the time travelling by sleeping in the plane and even save a night of lodging fees. But for such a short flight, you do not get enough sleep and the hotels don't really cater to your early arrival. And you might arrive tired meaning you spend the afternoon resting. And finally there is always a lower level of cabin service onboard as the flight attendants are in nocturnal mode too! It is not the best arrangement though for those in a hurry it makes sense to do so.
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Old Mar 29, 2013, 3:11 am
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Hyatt Regency Tokyo

Tokyo is home to 3 Hyatt hotels, a Grand Hyatt which I stayed in previously, a Park Hyatt which is also the scene where the movie 'Lost in Translation' was filmed at and a Hyatt Regency. The Grand Hyatt is usually the most expensive of the lot which is contrary to the Hyatt branding. Whilst I really wanted a stay in the Park Hyatt, I would only be spending a night in Tokyo and decided on the Hyatt Regency instead which is actually situated 5 minutes walk from each other. In fact my assigned room in the hotel had a clear view of the Park Hyatt Tokyo. Both the Hyatt Regency and Park Hyatt is located in Shinjuku, the area with the tallest skyscrapers in Tokyo, while the Grand Hyatt is located in Roppongi.


Front Facade of the Hyatt Regency Tokyo

From Haneda, I took the airport limousine bus and arrived at the hotel really early like around 7am. There was no bellman in the front where the bus dropped me off. It seems the hotel were not ready to accept guests in this hour of the day. Thus I needed to drag my luggage into the vast lobby filled with 3 huge chandeliers. It was grand for sure, but a bit old and not exactly to my liking. As expected the hotel said it was yet to be check-in time and told me to wait. The reception in the hotel was obviously not the most memorable. Neither was it amicable as the receptionist kept mentioning it was not yet the check-in time, giving guests the impression they are not welcome. I was also initially told I had been upgraded to a View King Room with Regency Club Lounge access.


Chandeliers in the Lobby

It was only upon asking if I could have access to the club lounge to wait, did a more senior duty manager escorted me to the Regency Club Lounge. I was then told to wait for the club lounge agent to assist me with my check-in though that would only be about half an hour later when she arrived. Meanwhile the manager told me to have some breakfast while waiting. I sat down and got myself juices, coffee and some fruits since I was not really hungry after the filling supper onboard Singapore Airlines.


Regency Club Lounge

Once the lounge agent arrived, she handled the check-in process in a much friendlier manner compared to the front desk. She also helped me find a Club King room but it would only be ready till later. With that I head out towards the Tokyo Metropolitan Office Tower for the free observatory. The clear and sunny day provided for a beautiful view. I proceeded to explore the rest of Shinjuku by walking to the Shinjuu subway station which is a 10-15 minute walk, and wonderful under the clear blue skies. Though for the weary travellers, the hotel has a shuttle bus like many respectable hotels shuttling guests between Shinjuku station and the hotel every 30 minutes. Location wise, the Hyatt Regency Tokyo is wonderful for tourists and businessmen alike since they are near many Japanese companies' offices in Shinjuku, easily accessible to the subway stations and Shinjuku is a major train station with lots of dining options and shopping malls.


Club King Room

Returning to the hotel only after lunch, I was provided keys to my room which is just one floor below the Club Lounge. The room was as I expected it to be having seen photos of the Club King room on the hotel's website. It is heavy on the wood panelling but it is nicely designed just like the Hyatt Regency Kyoto. The bathroom has the bathtub within the enclosed walk-in shower room. The toilet is also enclosed by a wooden sliding door. There is a lounge chair by the window with a view of the Park Hyatt Tokyo. On the small side table by the lounge chair is a box of madeleines and fresh strawberries as my welcome amenity. However the hotel does not have any wi-fi in the room, and what guests should do is request to rent for a wi-fi access device. A call to the room service brings up the housekeeping lady who sets up the device for me. It was pretty troublesome but not that difficult actually. I realize the Hyatt Regency that I have been to in Japan are of very high quality and they all provide bath amenities by Pharmacopia, a brand that I have seen used in the Andaz at West Hollywood so that was much good.


Bathroom Overview

The hotel also has an indoor swimming pool on the top floor along with the hotel's spa and fitness center. This is accessed by the 'bubble' lift that provides a nice view of Shinjuku once it goes above the atrium. As I mentioned earlier, as a Diamond member, I was also provided with Club access, and the Regency Club was impressive with a lot of seating area, and has 3 distinct spaces to lounge and dine. The breakfast served in the morning while pretty good by North American standards, falls short of what I have gotten used to in Asian properties. Compared to the full breakfast in Kyoto and Hakone, the Hyatt Regency Tokyo falls short in this regard. Though it is possible to get a view of Mount Fuji from the club lounge and naturally the penthouse floor housing the swimming pool. Though I suggest guests head to the Tokyo Metropolitan Office next door to have the best view over Tokyo.


Welcome Amenity of Strawberries

Other than the slightly chilly treatment I got when I checked in and the pretty standard breakfast fare, the Hyatt Regency Tokyo offers pretty good value in Tokyo for its location and convenience. This is actually an area I like better than Roppongi though I reserve any further comments until I try the Park Hyatt. As they say, one should always save the best for the last. From what I hear about the Park Hyatt Tokyo, it should be legendary, and that means I have to return to Tokyo again to experience it!
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Old Mar 29, 2013, 3:16 am
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ANA Suite Lounge in Narita

Airport lounges are wonderful refuge for travellers, and there is no greater place to replenish that energy that has been zapped by the frustration of queueing in passport control or fretting over the scanners in security check (damn those terrorists!). And when they are in the airline's home base, airport lounges are supposed to be even more amazing, thus I had high expectations for the ANA Suite Lounge in Narita, so this report will be on the First Class check-in experience as well as the First Class Lounge visit. First of all was getting to Narita from Shinjuku, and thankfully, there was an airport limousine bus that leaves my hotel at 12:30pm which is recommended even though my flight does not leave Narita till 5pm. This is because of Tokyo's horrendous traffic which meant I arrived in Narita around 2:30pm. ANA uses Terminal 2 in Narita and they have a dedicated Suite check-in in a corner, also labelled as aisle Z, which is where I headed straight to. Though I think the agent guarding the entrance kind of doubted I was in First or an ANA Diamond member since I was dressed in T-shirt, jeans with a leather jacket over me.


ANA Suite Check-in

The glass door of the suite check-in was not wide enough for my snowboard to pass through, so another agent came and help me with it. A dedicated First-Class check in felt special, as Singapore Airlines have this in Changi, Cathay Pacific has a dedicated check-in row as well in Hong Kong. Upon heading to the counter, the lady agent aforementioned came over with a hot towel.


ANA Suite Check-in Counters

However the check in took some time as the male agent was apparently very strict to the guidelines, including measuring the dimensions of my snowboard bag. The slow check in was the downside to the whole experience as it took some time for them to process the snowboard for check-in. The wait allowed me to venture around the terminal and look around for last minute gifts. However the wait was offset by a dedicated security check for First Class passengers at the end of the Suite Check-in area. There was no wait either at passport control which is common for all passengers, though the main security check looks quite empty as well. Again another thumbs up for Japanese efficiency, and probably a good reason why Kaizen principle works for Toyota and not General Motors though that is another story for another journal entry.


ANA Suite Check-in

Shopped for some snacks for gifts including the Jagga Pokkuru potato sticks that was only available in the store beside gate 52 after passing immigration. From there I proceeded to the ANA suite lounge which is located one floor above the departure concourse. The one here was recommended by the check-in agent as being closer to my gate and larger. This was also near gate 52 where I purchased my snacks. As I entered the Suite lounge, I noticed a personal room area on the left, and decided to store my luggage there by getting a cubicle to myself. I was pleasantly suprised when a hostess came over to greet me and welcome me with another hot towel service. She also asked me if she could bring me anything to drink or eat. However I didn't really know what they have on offer, so declined her offer.


Tokyo Narita Airport Terminal 2

After depositing my stuff at one of the cubicles, I headed to have a beef bowl for lunch with some cold green tea for drinks. This was after all my lunch, and the small bowl failed to satisfy me so I went on to get another bowl of Kitsune Udon. Both food choices was fantastic though I enjoyed the udon more which was cooked to perfection and the sweet taste of the bean curd added a tasty texture to the dish! Furthermore, there was small bottles of condiments to add to your food and in addition to the normal seven-spices powder common in Japanese restaurants, they have a variation that includes a ponzu flavour which I think is a seasonal garnish for winter. I like it when airport lounges have freshly prepared food to order, and this one is up to my expectations, so it was a nod to All Nippon Airways.


Entrance to ANA Lounge


Entrance to the Suite Lounge


Beef Bowl


Kitsune Udon with Iced Green Tea

With my stomach filled, I went to request for a shower, and one of the agent went to help me reserve a shower room, but when she escorted me there, the shower room turns out to be fully occupied so it was back to the lounge where I waited and while waiting made myself a cup of iced caffe latte. But just as I was going to be seated to enjoy the coffee, the agent returned to let me know the shower room is ready, and thus I made my way to the shower rooms which is shared between both the First Class and Business Class lounge guests.


Shower Room in ANA Lounge

However, First class passengers get a Thann amenity kit for the shower, which was very much appreciated. Once entering the shower rooms, they were very spacious with their own toilet and brightly lit. Definitely a comfortable place to shower and refresh oneself. The only design flaw was the toilet without any cover which kind of makes it cheap-looking like a public toilet. Though I have been to worse airport lounge showers, and this one was definitely one of the best. Again, I like airport lounges with spacious and clean shower rooms, and the personalized amenity kit makes ANA Suite Lounge shower rooms to be one of the best.


Thann Bath Amenity for First Class Passengers

There was still some time before boarding so I went back to the lounge after the shower, and found it to be more packed than ever. Perhaps more ANA flights are departing later in the evening. From the buffet area, I got myself an ANA original roll cake and a chocolate cake, returned to the personal cubicle and just relaxed. The cubicles does make it look like office spaces, but the comfortable chair and ottoman makes for a quiet place to just lie back, and there is also a large Sony TV on the panel, so businessmen can really keep track on the indices while on the move! However one thing lacking was the range of international magazines and newspapers that cater to non-Japanese.


ANA Signature Dessert and Chocolate Cassis Cake


Lounging in the Private Space

At around 4:36pm there was still no boarding announcement but with the excitement building for this flight I headed to the gate which is a short walk from the ANA lounge. As it turns out, boarding has yet to commence though the large windows provided a nice view of the 777 jet that will bring me across the Pacific. The beautiful sunset made for a nice backdrop to the picture of this airplane. The whole Suite lounge experience was just like this sunset, nice and comfortable if only I had more time to explore the other aspects of the lounge.


ANA Boeing 777-300ER in the Sunset
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Old Mar 29, 2013, 3:27 am
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ANA First Square NRT-LAX Part 1

NH006 Tokyo NRT - Los Angeles LAX
STD-STA: 17:05 - 09:45
Actual: 17:36 - 09:20
Boeing 777-300ER JA735A
Seat 2A


ANA First Square

Boarding started with First Class passengers and there was a family of 3 who boarded before me. As I entered the first class cabin, I was impressed with the design. The family of 3 occupied the other side of the cabin and I proceeded to my seat at 2A. I stowed my luggage on the overhead compartment after taking out my camera, iPad and headphones. As I took off my jacket, the purser for the flight introduced herself and apologized for not coming sooner to help me out as she took my jacket from me. She proceeded to ask if I would like to head to the washroom to change into my pyjamas, but I declined. Instead, I chose to take a seat and explore the functions first as I thought of changing after the meal. Passengers in First Class should also take note the closet space beside the suite, complete with a clothes hanger.


First Square Seat


Closet Space on ANA First

ANA's first class is not exactly a suite, though the 777 was configured with 8 seats in first class in a 1-2-1 setting on every row. As others have pointed out, they felt like office cubicles, but in reality, they were nicer. I also found the seats to be more comfortable than Asiana's new first suites, which I tried on the way out, even if it was a bit narrower. What was lacking from a true first class experience was the way the 'square' panels block the view out of 2 of the windows, meaning instead of 3 windows one is entitled to, they can only get a view out of one of them.


The First Class Cabin onboard ANA 777-300ER

Boarding of the plane took a while and the purser came back again and said they cannot serve alcohol on the ground, though offered something else to drink. I got myself some Yuzu drink (ANA Original Aromatic Kabosu) which I really enjoyed on my flights with Japanese-based airliners. After getting me the drink, the purser came back with a choice of magazines, and returned a second time with amenities from the tray that First Class passengers can select. On the tray were also US immigration forms. Knowing I was a foreign passport holder who required a US Visa, she came back with the white form. The attention to detail by the purser was outstanding and truly one of the most professional flight crew member I have met. I got about to filling the forms while waiting on the ground, and even with this I still had time to spare so I thought of heading to the lavatory to change to pyjamas. Though it turns out the other passenger occupying seat 1A was using the lavatory. The passenger on seat 1A was an elderly Japanese gentleman, and I surmise he is somewhat important the way the crew paid attention to him. He and his companion was also in a hurry and met with an escort from ANA to meet with their connecting flight once on arrival at LAX.


Amenities on a Tray

Since the lavatory was occupied, I fell back to my original plan of changing to my pyjamas after the meal. Aside from the pyjamas which only comes in one size, there was also a pair of slippers, a blanket, and a cardigan for passengers afraid of the cold. There was also a pair of Sony Noise Cancelling headphones. Thus I spent the rest of my time taking photos of the cabin while the plane was waiting for pullback. I also explored all the nooks and crannies of the seat, and discovered a lot of oddly-sized storage compartments that had a lot of vanity mirrors. Well they do expect First Class passengers to remain presentable after the flight right? Another incident was the initiation of a conversation with the purser as she noticed my Doraemon (a beloved Japanese comic character) trinket hanging from my Bose headphone cover. Apparently she was not the only flight stewardess to be awed by it as another crew member did spot it as well! This Doraemon trinket was especially unique as it was for sale only in Sapporo's Chitose Airport and featured the character on a plane!


The above-mentioned Doraemon Trinket


Sony Noise Cancelling Headphones

During the time on the ground, I also took a look at the amenity kit for First Class passengers, which was in a Samsonite branded toiletry bag. The bag was pretty impressive and would be useful for travelling. Inside were some packs of ANA original amenities, including some of which were presented on the tray. There was also a toothbrush and toothpaste, a shoe horn, some lotions and a lip balm by Thann just like their shower amenities. Apparently the amenity tray is an addition and includes some very unique amenities to ANA which was wonderful. The pyjamas and later the comforter and pillow case are made by Phiten, a Japanese sportswear company. According to the purser the pyjamas is made of a special material that is supposed to aid sleeping.


First Class Amenity Kit; Photo taken after the flight on the ground

Eventually we departed more than half an hour late behind schedule, though the captain did make an announcement of a short flight time which was as confirmed by the purser who attended to me for most of the flight to LAX. Once we were at cruising altitude, the purser came back, passing me menus for the flight and asking me for my beverage choices. With all First Class flights, one should never forget to order champagne, and ANA serves Krug just like Cathay Pacific. The purser once again showed me the bottle and even let me pose it for a picture. Another reason why I like ANA's First Square cabin was the tray table which was easy to retract. Unlike most tray tables which are stowed inside the side armrests, ANA's was stowed underneath the TV screen, and just needed a light push for it to come out. Stowing it back requires a light push as well and the mechanism really felt very well made!


Krug Champagne

With the glass of champagne I sat back and relax on my seat and planned to use my Bose headphones but I realized the audio input jack inside the cabin was configured to fit only with the headphones supplied, and they had no adaptor whatsoever. Thus I had to use the supplied headphones, and the purser did apologize profusely because of this. I also had the time to peruse the first class menu which was in a quality folder that would not look out of place in a Michelin-starred restaurant. For those keen to know more about ANA's first class dining, they may take a look at the menu which is posted on ANA's website.


Inspiration of Japan First Square Cabin View

A couple of minutes later, the purser came back with a serving of amuse bouche, explaining to me each of the components. Then she asked me for my choice of meal. I chose the Kaiseki meal and also requested for the caviar from the Western meal. With that I set my spoon on the amuse which consisted foie gras in red wine jelly, smoked oyster and salmon, and persimmon layered with butter, all served with cheese breadsticks. The highlight was the foie gras in red wine jelly and persimmon layered with butter, both of which gave a very nice mixture of flavours that marked the start of a tantalizing meal!


Amuse Bouche

At this point I also switched on the entertainment system and started perusing for movies and TV shows to watch. From what I noticed, the selection provided by ANA was average at best and definitely loses out to other premium carriers like Singapore Airlines and Cathay Pacific. However the TV screen has a very good resolution and has excellent clarity so I started watching the movie 'The Cold Light of Day', another action drama that was better than I expected.

The purser then came back and set up the table for my meal. As I also asked for the caviar service, I was served this first before the kaiseki course. Caviar has long been synonymous with First Class service, and I would even go to the extent of saying no airline should call its service 'First' if it doesn't serve caviar and champagne, along with the national cuisine that the carrier is based from. The caviar service onboard ANA was a bit lacklustre compared to those on Asiana and Cathay Pacific. Asiana serves it best with the widest choices of condiments, while the one in Cathay tasted good. Somehow the blinis that came along with the caviar in ANA was thick. The caviar was also a bit too salty such that it did not have the flavour of the caviar. It was still tasty enough with the right amount of condiments but I was looking forward to the Kaiseki meal more after the caviar service.


Caviar Service

In Japan, a Kaiseki meal is a multi-course cuisine that is served in high-end restaurants and ryokans. What is unique of Kaiseki cuisine is that it revolves around seasonal ingredients and has a mixture of flavours that blends to create a memorable meal. The meal served by All Nippon Airways in First Class is one that is close to a full Kaiseki meal and that was impressive considering all the dishes are presentable and tastes wonderful, though for a foreigner like me, there are some dishes in the Kaiseki that will taste really weird in the first mouthful, so beware as this is something for the adventurous.


Sakizuke

The first dish served started with a sakizuke, or more like a second amuse bouche. The sakizuke served tasted refreshing even though it is made of herring roe, with a layer of seaweed sandwiched in between. The dish was also served with kombu kelp which added some flavour to the whole dish.


Zensai 前菜

The next dish served was the zensai or a starter platter comprising of salted entrails of trepang, simmered prawn, simmered abalone, grated chicken topped with poppy seed, grilled caviar of mullet roe, steamed black beans and chestnuts ball, aspic of crabmeat, sushi roll of halfbeak and salmon, grilled scallop with sea urchin and mayonnaise sauce. The zensai is essentially a cold dish starter and the flavours of this particular platter varied extensively. The mots adventurous dish would probably be the salted entrails of trepang (a form of sea cucumber), which is probably not for the faint hearted. It tasted even more slimy than uni (sea urchin). The purser who served me the dish did warn me that it is not common for non-Japanese people to like the dish. My favourite in the dish would have to be the simmered abalone and the steamed black beans and chestnut ball due to the chewy texture of the former and the sweet taste of the latter.


Nimonowan

The third dish was a nimonowan which is a tender egg pudding topped with simmered icefish in seafood stock. This was a warm dish and light in flavour that perhaps serve as buffers between courses to refine the palate. The seafood stock while light in flavour, had a very nice sweet taste and was refreshing after the heavy flavours of the zensai.


Otsukuri - thinly sliced yellowtail, ponzu vinegar with sesame flavour

The fourth dish was an otsukuri which was something like a seared sashimi, and today's selection comprised of thinly sliced yellowtail, ponzu vinegar with sesame flavour. This is probably my favourite dish in the whole Kaiseki course, though it might be attributed to my love for yellowtail fish, and both the ponzu and sesame are my choice of dipping sauces even for Japanese hotpot. Thus the flavours and texture of the dish was perfect, with the ponzu giving it a sour yet refreshing taste, and the sesame contributing to a fragrant scent and sweet flavour that creates a burst of flavour with every slice of the fish!


Mushimono on the right and Kobachi on the left

The fifth and sixth dish was two small bowls served concurrently. Though by this time it could be either I was too full or the last dish was too good that it took me some time to finish both dishes and even then I did not finish the mushimono. The mushimono is made of steamed tilefish, snow crab and various ingredients with grated turnip sauce, and it was rich and sweet in flavour. Its texture tasted like mountain yam and thus was very filling. The kobachi served is sliced flatfish mixed with mashed liver of monkfish and miso sauce. It was savoury and mashed liver of monkfish tasted a bit like a lighter version of foie gras.


Shusai of Tilefish

The seventh dish is the shusai, or the main course which was grilled tilefish with a sweet miso taste. Tilefish has a smooth texture just like cod and the dish was served with a bowl of miso soup, a bowl of rice (gohan), and some pickled vegetables to cleanse the palate. Even though I was quite full at this point, the tilefish was just too good to pass by. Probably this is my second favourite dish in the whole Kaiseki course. It was just delicious. I ended up eating only one-third of the rice though.


Wagashi or Japanese Dessert

Throughout the Kaiseki dinner meal, my glass of Yuzu beverage and mineral water was constantly refilled without me asking and the service throughout the meal was flawless, with the courses coming out at the right time. Finally, the end of the Kaiseki meal is marked with the serving of wagashi which is a small bowl of three varieties of amanatto, which are basically sugar-glazed chestnuts, toroku beans and sweet potatoes. I never knew you could make sweets out of these healthy vegetables, so it was a nice end to the Kaiseki course, but there was something else in addition to this. Since my Japanese dessert is not substantial enough I asked if I could also have the western dessert, which is specially created through a collaboration with Pierre Hermé of Paris. The western meal dessert I picked was a combination of matcha green tea cream, chestnut cream, chestnuts pan-fried with pepper and vanilla, passion fruit jelly, passion fruit-flavoured “tuile” biscuit and the presentation was one of the most beautiful I have seen on an airplane. Definitely another highlight of the meal service!


Variation autour du marron, du thé vert matcha et du fruit de la passion
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Old Mar 29, 2013, 3:27 am
  #6  
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ANA First Square NRT-LAX Part 2

As the purser came back to clear my table after the meal, she enquired if I would like any coffee or tea, and I responded by requesting for a cup of Iced Cafe Latte. Apparently it will be her first time making the beverage though it was perfect and would make any barista proud! The mixture of milk and coffee was balanced with adequate foam at the top, and it was served with a choice of white and brown sugar cubes. Since I wanted to savour this drink, I head to the washroom to change into my pyjamas. When I exited the washroom, the purser helped me to hang my clothes and when I returned to my seat, it has already been prepared into a bed. Turn-down service without being asked is a luxury that should be afforded in First Class.


Turn Down Service

Before I set about to sleep, I played around with the unoccupied seat as I wanted to stand and let the food digest. I took a peek into Business Class but because it was quite full, I did not want to walk around the whole plane especially since I have changed into my pyjamas. The business class on my flight has already been fitted with the new 'Inspiration of Japan' seats which are similar to those on their 787s servicing the international routes. They seem wider compared to Asiana's staggered business class (which they call Quadra Smartium) but since I did not try them, I could not really say for sure. Again another inspiration on the cabin was the ambient lighting around the First Class mini-suite which works well and made the seat feels brighter though not glaring. Perfect for lounging!


Seat in Lounge Mode

The feature that truly gave ANA an edge was how comfortable the bed was for sleeping. In addition to just reclining it, the crew added a mattress pad with a Tempur-like material, and added a fluffy comforter, 2 pillows and laid out the blanket for me. The whole setting was much more comfortable. It was similar to Asiana, but the additional pillows meant I had one to sleep on, and one to hug, as I usually do at home. With the whole set-up I was asleep soon enough and had a very good night sleep, and most probably the best I have ever had on a plane. Though I was really awoken by a slightly warm cabin, which I attribute to the mattress pad and the pyjamas which are made of a slightly thick material. It was not warm as in hot and uncomfortable but warm and cosy in a ski-lodge kind of feeling. Maybe I am just used to sleeping in colder temperatures.


Ambient Lighting in the Suite

Since I did sleep pretty well, I decided to head to the next suite in 2D which was one of 2 unoccupied seats in the First Class cabin. I set it to a lounge mode and before long, one of the flight attendant came by and asked me if I wanted anything to drink. I picked one of ANA's original flavoured tea which is green tea infused with strawberry and orange essences, as well as an Umeshu (plum wine), and the selection that day was the Kakutama Plum Wine.


Tea Service with Umeshu

While enjoying the seat, I set to watch some TV shows, and halfway through the show, I felt the need to just snack, so I called for the attendant. Somehow both the purser and flight stewardess came by and I requested for some chips, rice crackers or some other snacks like ice cream. What I was served exceeded my imagination since it was plate of burger and chips with rice crackers and mixed nuts on another small plate. I actually mentioned to the stewardess I did not really want the burger but she just said it was specially prepared for me! Shortly afterwards, the purser came back with the ice cream and unlike in past occasions, these ice cream are usually hard as a rock or melted like cream. This time it was perfect and ready to eat. The timing was also just nice after I finished my chips and crackers. The attention to detail regarding the passengers' well-being and comfort in this flight made the purser one of the best airline staff I have encountered!


Burger and Chips

It turns out that she thought being quite young and growing up in a western country (Canada), I might appreciate burgers with my chips. I got to know this from my later conversation with the purser after I ended my meal and changed back into my normal clothes. When I mentioned I love Japanese food, the purser actually asked me if I would like some udon before landing. Since I decided to skip on a full breakfast fare before landing, I took her up on the offer of the udon, which was served with mountain vegetables and chopped leek, with the light flavour making for a tasty meal before landing. Included in the tray was a bottle of shichimi (7-spice powder) for added flavour to the udon.


Hot Udon prior to Arrival

After the flight attendant cleared my tray, the purser came around and have a small conversation with me such as asking me how the flight was, my eventual destination and asked if there was anything else I would require. At this point, I requested for a bottle of water and she actually asked if I would also like more of ANA's Original Aromatic Kabosu. Since I did like the Yuzu beverage, I had another glass of it while enjoying the descent. We were flying over Northern California at this time and the clear weather provided for great views. I even managed to get some beautiful shots of the urban sprawl of Los Angeles during the descent.


Westwood and Beverly Hills


Flying over Downtown LA

Eventually we ended up arriving earlier than expected in Los Angeles International Airport. Upon docking at the gate, the flight attendant actually withheld the business class passengers and waited for all First Class passengers to disembark first, just like what Cathay Pacific did. Fortunately the wait in immigration was not that long, though it still took me an hour before I reached the rental car shuttle area. The early arrival meant we managed to beat the crowds as the queue at immigration just expanded. All Nippon Airways definitely is one of the best Star Alliance airlines to fly with. Not only was the purser the most impressive flight crew I have ever flown with, I liked the quality of its meals, beverages, amenities and cabin fittings. In my opinion, they have the best hard product barring the inflight entertainment system which needs more choices. Personally I rank them amongst the best airlines in the world.


First Class View from the Seat
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Old Mar 29, 2013, 3:33 am
  #7  
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Hyatt Regency and Hyatt the Pike Long Beach

When I was searching for a hotel to stay in for my 2 nights in Los Angeles, I discovered that Hyatt has 2 properties within walking distance in Long Beach, California, one being the Hyatt Regency Long Beach and the other is Hyatt the Pike Long Beach. I reserved my first night stay at the Hyatt Regency first before staying the second night at Hyatt the Pike. The former is a classic 'Regency' branded hotel, catering to convention guests since the hotel is next to the Long Beach Convention Centre. This means a large spacious lobby but a relatively old looking interior circa the 1980s.


Hyatt Regency Long Beach

I arrived at the hotel before noon and there was 2 person queueing in front of me. While there was those self check-in machines, I did not know if those worked. And there was no Diamond and Platinum Priority queue which was a big downside. The wait was about 10 minutes or so, and while it might not sound like a big deal, I just found the experience not as inviting as I had just completed a transpacific flight and had queued up nearly an hour for immigration and another queue?


View from the Room

While checking me in, the agent noted my Diamond status with Hyatt and thanked me, also noting that the Customer Service Manager of the Hotel wanted to see me. Turns out she came out to the lobby and thanked all Diamond Members personally. It was a nice touch, but rather than spend on that, who not increase the staff numbers checking guests in instead? As expected, I got an upgrade to a Regency Club Room, though initially the agent could not provide me the room immediately. The agent went to look for another Club room for me and got one, even though it does not have the coveted view of the bay and the Queen Mary liner.


Bathroom in the Hyatt Regency Long Beach

My room was located on the same floor as the Regency Club and it had a non-traditional layout for a hotel room. The entrance foyer houses the wardrobe with a side door leading to the bathroom. The bathroom reminds me of the one in Andaz West Hollywood which was good with a walk-in shower and a long console with a recessed sink. The room also features the new Hyatt Regency amenities by Kenet MD which had a much nicer scent compared to the old 'Portico' bath amenities.


Regency Club King Room

The best part was the bedroom which is past the foyer. It was spacious with the bed looking towards the window that has a nice view of the beach, aquarium and downtown area of Long Beach. By the window is a chaise lounge, a chair and a coffee table with the flat-screen TV on the long desk console. The decor of the room was modern with clean lines. The photos by the wall evokes the Southern Californian beach lifestyle and it was all very nice. It was all very good value considering how little I paid for this room. I was able to get bottled water from the Regency Club and the view from the Club lounge provided another vista of the Queen Mary.


View from the Regency Club Lounge

It was easy to get food around the area as there are several restaurants around Long Beach and it is probably a 15 minute walk to the downtown area. While I did not have the evening snacks at the lounge, I did have breakfast there the next day. Like many club lounges, the food was pretty average though the quality seems better to many of the Sheraton Club lounges in North America.


Regency Club Lounge

When I checked in at Hyatt the Pike Long Beach the next day, the atmosphere of the hotel is vastly different. Hyatt the Pike feels more like the W Silicon Valley I stayed in 2 years ago. The hotel is located in a low-rise building just opposite the Hyatt Regency Long Beach. The lobby is small but nicely decorated and the check-in agent mentioned I was upgraded to the Master Suite which happens to be the highest category of rooms in this property. One thing was the front desk actually ran out of key cards when I checked in but because there was no wait, the check-in process was faster than the previous day. This is perhaps an advantage of staying in a smaller boutique style hotel. Another disadvantage is the parking lot which is not connected by any shelter to the hotel, so it can pose some inconvenience if the weather is raining.


Master Suite at Hyatt the Pike


Master Suite Overview

Because Hyatt the Pike is not located by the waterfront, the room did not have great views. However one can certainly get good views from the rooftop pool. Entering the Master Suite, the room layout was similar to the W Silicon Valley. There is a living room furnished with sofas, and a nice study area on the side. Between the living room and the bed was a swivelling flat screen TV that could be positioned to either the living area or the room. The bathroom is much more spacious and laid with white marble which gave it a clean look. There was a huge walk-in shower complete with a stool and double recessed sinks.


Master Suite Bathroom

Comparing this to my room the previous night, I did like the decor of this room better as it is more spacious and feels more like 'home'. While the hotel did not provide bottled water in the room, they actually brought me 2 bottles of Evian mineral water when I asked for complimentary water. And it was the huge bottle, which I only managed to drink one since I was only expecting a small Nestle Pure Life bottled water. To say the hotel exceeds my expectations would be right, since they also provided credit for up to $25 for breakfast at the Bay Street Kitchen on the ground floor. I was able to order a cup of cappuccino, French toast, and a sunny side up all for less than $25 with tips included.


Rooftop Swimming Pool


Ground Floor Lobby

Being a small boutique style hotel, there is no club lounge which allowed me to enjoy that amazing breakfast. The hotel also has a very nice rooftop swimming pool which offers very good views though not as good as those offered in the Hyatt Regency Long Beach. If I were to return to Long Beach again, I would actually pick Hyatt the Pike again since the hotel offers a better breakfast choice, and a cheaper parking which was at the adjacent sheltered parking lot. In addition, the convenience and larger room offers much better value overall.
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Old Mar 29, 2013, 1:22 pm
  #8  
 
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Really good TR! A nice variety of prose and wonderful photos. Thanks for sharing.
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Old Mar 29, 2013, 1:24 pm
  #9  
 
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Great TR and pics!
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Old Mar 29, 2013, 1:53 pm
  #10  
 
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Great report! Will be flying ANA F for the first time in a few days, and can't wait.
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Old Mar 29, 2013, 2:41 pm
  #11  
 
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Great report! I love the detailed description of ANA F. Like sfoactuary, I'll be flying ANA F for the first time in about 4 days, though because of an equipment swap I'll be on old F and not the First Square suite. Still, I expect the rest of the experience to be similar, and this report whets my appetite!
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Old Mar 29, 2013, 3:09 pm
  #12  
 
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A commendable trip report, quirrow. You have done a fine job of balancing photos with well written commentary -- a feat that many posters have not yet mastered.

I also found your detailed explanation of the kaiseki meal fascinating. Many of us are less familiar with the 'real' cuisine of Japan than we are the pseudo Westernized version.
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Old Mar 29, 2013, 7:36 pm
  #13  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
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GREAT report. The First Square is a great improvement over the First Seat they still have. I have not tried ANA's First Service over the Pacific, only between NRT and CDG and LHR, but the service looks the same. Your explanations of the Kaiseki meal course are tempting me to try it next time, but you're right, it does seem adventurous. You have given me some better ideas for picture taking the next time I flew with them. In the two round-trips I've flown, I was one of three passengers onboard and in all cases, the flight attendants set up the Square next to me as my bed. They were very concerned about their English speaking abilities, but I told them they all did fine.

Thank you for sharing!
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Old Mar 29, 2013, 7:59 pm
  #14  
 
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Your photos are yet again stunning!

Great TR!
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Old Mar 29, 2013, 10:26 pm
  #15  
 
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Amazing photos like your other TR and great report! I flew on NH F LHR-NRT and it was also a fantastic experience, particularly since I was transiting from UA F so you could see the huge difference in service level.

My flight was in Feb and oddly enough my amenity kit bag was a bit different. Contents look similar (and also by Thann) but just the bag itself was not like yours.
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