zcat18

A “Peace” of the Middle East (ORD-AMS-IST-TLV and back on KL Economy Comfort and TK Y)

A peaceful to journey to two of the region’s most enchanting countries.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446743570/

Part I: Background and Planning, Completed
Part II: Day Prior to Flight, Completed
Part III: ORD-AMS, Completed
Part IV: AMS-IST, Completed
Part V: IST-TLV, Completed
Part VI: TLV-IST, Completed
Part VII: IST-AMS, Completed
Part VIII: AMS-ORD, Completed
Final Thoughts: Completed


A few notes on this TR: I am having some trouble embedding my photos. Until I troubleshoot the problem, I have removed the IMG tags from my photos and simply presented them as links. Here is a link to my complete Photostream, which is uploaded in reverse order (end of trip to beginning): http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/with/5446249187/

This report will include plenty of pictures, but I apologize in advance if it appears that the number of photos diminishes as the report progresses. A combination of fatigue, lack of personal space on some flights, and security restrictions at certain airports kept me from being as comprehensive as I know some of you would prefer. I tend not to obsess over the exact shade of white of each grain of rice, instead aiming to give readers a sense of the overall experience and, ultimately, a rating of how effectively I feel each product achieved its goals. I hope that my report(s) serve as a sort of consumer summary and also as a source of enjoyment. Happy reading!

Background and Planning

Unlike many FT’ers, I do not take a predetermined number of international/long haul trips per year, nor do I plan quite as meticulously as some, who, rumor has it, consult Jeppeson charts and advanced meteorological data to ensure the highest number of miles and longest time in the air to secure the most miles and longest flight time. To be sure, I maximize my miles, but I also like to take at least one long-haul trip per year, and not having quite the stockpile of miles that some here do, I am often forced to take the most economical route, not the one that utilizes my airline(s) of choice or results in the highest miles yield. Though I like to think of myself as loyal to UA and the Star Alliance, a well-timed fare sale by a One World or Skyteam airline exposes me as a serial airline adulterer.

This trip, perhaps more than any other that I have taken, assumed a number of incarnations and purposes before finally materializing in its final form. Planning began in Sept. 2010, originally as a short vacation to get me out of the office and the country while topping off my UA account. Initially, I booked an affordable ORD-LHR UA roundtrip, then requested a miles upgrade, complementing the itinerary with an EasyJet roundtrip to ATH for a five-day jaunt.

The next day, sensing that I may have missed better deals, I searched Travelzoo and FareCompare, realizing that for $200 less than the itinerary that I had booked, I could fly KL roundtrip to IST, a new destination and country for me. Of course, booking this itinerary and canceling the other would deprive me of precious UA miles, but being a cost-conscious traveler, I took advantage of the 24-hour policy, canceled my UA itinerary, decided to eat the cost of the EasyJet ticket, and booked ORD-AMS-IST-AMS-ORD on KLM. My decision was rewarded by the fact that KLM had just launched not only a new class of “premium” economy service, but also a new seat and AVOD system.

Jackpot.

I parted with 90 more Euros to upgrade to the new Economy Comfort class on the outbound leg (I would later upgrade the homebound TATL leg as well). I selected seat 11A—by far the closest I had yet sat to the nose of a 747—and was in business.

This process also proved a bit complicated, as Greece, Iraq (!), Israel, and Bulgaria were all in play as realistic possibilities for short trips from IST. Like any good FT’er, I turned my attention to the Iraq option, as this would be a prized passport stamp and an unprecedented educational opportunity. A number of Turkish domestic airlines (Atlas Air, etc.) flew to Erbil, Iraq in the relatively stable and safe Kurdistan region for a reasonable fare, and I wasted little time in booking one such fare from IST. I immediately began to research transportation, hotels, attractions, and recommended safety precautions. As I planned my three-day excursion to Mesopotamia, the costs began to escalate. $250/night for lodging, another couple hundred dollars total for transportation, plus airfare and incidentals suddenly shoved the Iraq excursion out of my price range. Dismayed and defeated, I canceled my Atlas Air reservation and began searching for other options.

I have been to Israel a number of times and, in fact, have friends there. Nonetheless, traveling there from Turkey on this particular journey would provide me with a good four days to explore the country on my own and hit several highlights that my previous organized tours had missed. Additionally, it would allow me to spend more time in Jerusalem, which is the favorite city that I have yet visited in my travels, as well as to see a group of good friends for the first time in several years.

It was settled. I booked TK flights (earning full UA EQM) to and from TLV, along with hotels and a Budget rental car, and my final plans were at last set. My eight-day trip would take me from my home airport, ORD, to AMS in KL’s new Economy Comfort class, then to IST for three days. TK would take me to TLV, where I would spend the next four days on a self-guided tour of Israel, before returning to IST for my KL Y flight back to ORD via AMS.

Day Prior to Flight


The day prior to flight was a Friday and my first day back at work after the third biggest blizzard in Chicago history. Two feet of snow paralyzed the city and closed schools and offices for two days—measures not taken in nearly three decades.

After work, I rushed home to run a load or two of laundry, cram my small roll-aboard with both summer and winter wardrobes (TLV would be markedly warmer than IST, and even IST’s weather was unpredictable), and settle my excitement with several hours of television before finally settling into a satisfying pre-trip sleep.

I had kept an eye on the load factor in Economy Comfort during the weeks prior to my departure, and I noted that it was extremely light. 16 hours before my flight was scheduled to depart, it appeared that I still had the row to myself. My fingers were crossed in the hopes that this would indeed be the case.

Feb. 5, 2011
KL0612
Equipment: 747-400 Combi (KLM Asia Livery)
Class: Economy Comfort
Seat: 11A
Dep: 16:15 (Actual, 16:15)
Arr: 07:20+1 (Actual, 06:45+1)

The weather had been in some question, as additional snow was forecast for my day of departure. To my relief, I awoke to clear skies and mild temperatures. After spending a few hours undertaking final preparations (contacting banks and credit cards, adjusting articles in my suitcase, and charging electronics), I headed to the airport. Traffic was surprisingly light, except for a half-mile stretch just outside of ORD that still had not been cleared of snow, and with 30 minutes of leaving my door, I was entering Terminal 5, ready to check in for my flight.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446743770/
Rogue's gallery of T5 tenants, some of which no longer reside here

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/...n/photostream/
T5 check-in area.

Given my early time of arrival at the airport, the line at the KLM counter was almost non-existent, and after a scant two minutes of waiting, I was called by the smiling agent, who checked me in and happily indulged my small talk about the blizzard and the ensuing flight delays. Interestingly, she noted that KLM had canceled its inbound ORD flight on the day of the blizzard and that there had not been a significant backup of pax (seemed improbable at the time, but when I saw the light load factor on my flight a few hours later, it made sense), allowing her to have three paid snow days. No wonder she was in such a good mood!

Check-in was quick, my bag was checked through to IST, and I received boarding passes for both flights.

Anyone familiar with ORD knows that we “boast” one of the least compelling international terminals of any major global hub, and given the fact that I was not entitled to KL/AF lounge entry, I engaged in the next best activity: drinks at the airport bar. The jovial Polish bartender poured Jack Daniels generously (and, at $9.50 per pour, I would expect/hope that this would be the case), and after two Jack & Diets, I was ready to clear security and do some spotting. Security was quick—a bit surprising given the mob at the landside food court—and I was soon cruising the M concourse, allowing my anticipation to build as I photographed the tails of flag carriers from around the world.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446744004/
Snow drifts at ORD

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446743846/
AF A330 preparing for the trip to CDG

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446744150/
BA 777 to LHR

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446744216/
LH A330 in town from Munich (Note: LH birds at ORD arrive at T5 and are then towed to UA's T1 for boarding and departure)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446744324/
An endangered species...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446744930/
Ethiad (in F1 livery), BA, LX, TK, SAS (in *A livery--barely visible), UA

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446142145/
My ride to AMS--KL 744-Combi

Fifteen minutes prior to boarding, I made my way to the gate, and before long, the gate agent (an American) began the surprisingly orderly embarkation process. Reminiscent of US domestic flights, pre-boarding commenced with Business Elite (this was a two-class 744), then KL/AF/DL elites, and then…and this was pleasant surprise #1…Economy Comfort, which was permitted to board before standard economy. Excellent.

I quickly gathered my things and entered the short Economy Comfort line. Within five minutes, I approached door 2L of the 747, at which two smiling FAs asked if I knew how to find my way. I answered in the affirmative and turned right to find my seat. It was at this point that I became aware of pleasant surprise #2. The first row to my right was row 22. For the first time that I can remember, I made the coveted left turn to my seat, 11 rows from the nose of the Queen of the Skies.

The next pleasant surprise was that this particular 744 was equipped with KL’s brand new seats and AVOD system. The Economy Comfort section itself was intriguing. It was a 3-2 configuration, with the other side of the aircraft occupied by galleys and closets. These were hidden by a solid wall, creating a narrow-body feel, albeit in a 747. Yet more good omens abounded, including the fact that, as I had hoped, I had a row of three extra-pitch seats to myself—a skybed of sorts—for only 90 euro more than the cramped back of the bus, which when I ventured back later, I realized was almost completely full. I was so far in front of the engines that I had to strain to see them out my window, and I was at the point where the curvature of the cabin was quite apparent. Pitch was a comfortable 38” for my short frame, which resulted in essentially unlimited legroom since my backpack could be stowed snugly under the middle seat.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446142851/
Ample legroom of KL's Economy Comfort product

A few more shots of the seat and AVOD system:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446142679/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446142573/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446142745/
AVOD remote

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/...n/photostream/
Semi-private Economy Comfort cabin near the nose of the 744. Notice single-aisle configuration.

VIDEO (KL Economy Comfort product shortly after takeoff from ORD): http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446196943/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446142939/
Goodbye ORD!

Shortly after pushback, the captain announced a relatively short flight time of 6 hours and 50 minutes to Amsterdam, and within 10 minutes, we were wheels-up over the frigid Midwest, making the northeastern turn over Lake Michigan, beginning the southerly route across the Atlantic to AMS.

Roughly seven minutes after takeoff, the seatbelt sign was extinguished, and within 20 minutes, the first beverage service was offered by the smiling, friendly blond FA. I asked for Jack Daniel’s and Diet Coke but, in the absence of Jack, was offered Dewar’s, which was certainly not a disappointment and was poured generously from a full-sized bottle. Soon after, the same FA came through the Economy Comfort cabin with hot towels, a nice touch and another pleasant surprise. After another 20 minutes, more drinks were offered (I chose the house white wine, which was palatable), along with dinner.
An economy class menu was actually part of the AVOD system, and it promised the following:

Chicken Tajine
Chicken Tajine Sauce, served with flavoured rice.
Starter: Couscous Salad with feta cheese and zucchini
Dessert: Mousse of apricot and mango

When the FA made the rounds, she offered “chicken or beef dish,” and I ordered the chicken. Yes, it was an Asian style/teriyaki (?) chicken, but the couscous salad was replaced by an overcooked tuna fish salad, and the flavoured rice was replaced by noodles (not a bad thing, necessarily) and over-steamed snow peas. Dessert was not mousse of apricot, but instead was a quite moist and tasty carrot cake, which I preferred. Now, I am not a picky eater, and as such, I was perfectly satisfied with the meal. However, I did wonder what became of the promised couscous/feta salad, rice side, and mousse. I would find out eight days later that this was, in fact, the west-bound KL Economy menu.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446197059
Drink service

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446798712/
Dinner

Dinner was soon cleared, coffee and tea offered, and a quick glance at the flight map, which I had conveniently running on the middle seat’s screen while I watched “Up,” revealed ground speed well over 700 mph and an abundance of miles already in our six. In fact, we had a mere four hours estimated until touchdown.

For two of those four hours, I spread out “bed-style” across my three-seat row and managed to catch a bit of airplane sleep. I will note that sleeping in the Economy Comfort seat in full recline (about twice KL’s standard Economy recline) was actually more comfortable for me than laying across the row.

I awoke as we approached the northern coast of Ireland and decided to test the gaming capability of KL’s new AVOD. As I suspected, the game selection was standard airplane fare. There was Backgammon, a couple of card games, and “Who Wants to Be a Millionaire.” I began trying my luck at the British version of the popular game show, a couple of times making it to 250,000 Euros (oh, if those could only be miles).

Soon, the FA was making her way down the aisle with the pre-landing snack, which proved to be a disappointing box containing a small package of nonfat yogurt and what appeared to be a barely-edible, half-frozen pre-packaged muffin. I ate the yogurt and passed on the muffin, the remnants of which were promptly collected.

A final drink order was taken, and I asked for a cup of coffee, which never materialized, though I did realize that the FA, who had been an otherwise perfectly effective, friendly young woman, was chatting up a passenger with whom she had been conversing almost the entire flight. This was one of my few complaints about the experience. As an airline enthusiast and FT’er, I am 100% in favor of flight attendants who are social with the passengers, interact, converse, and answer questions. However, when the FA’s desire to socialize with one particular passenger overrides her responsibility to provide adequate service to the others, I must raise a red flag of disapproval. This was certainly a minor infraction and not worthy of any sort of official complaint, but I did take mental note of this slight lack of professionalism.

Soon, we were final into a dark AMS, where I had two hours until my final leg of the day to IST.

The final verdict on KLM’s Economy Comfort Product:

This is a fantastic compromise between UA’s Economy Plus and the more lavish premium economy products on carriers such as BA and NZ. For almost exactly the same price as UA asks for five extra inches of legroom in Y+, KL’s product offers the extra pitch, plus early boarding (and, theoretically, early disembarkation), twice the recline of standard economy, a semi-private cabin with a single-aisle configuration in the 744, and a standard selection of free alcohol (I believe this is also offered in standard economy on KL, as well). I am a fan of this service, as it allows those of us on a budget a truly affordable and markedly more comfortable alternative to the cattle call that is longhaul Y. On my return AMS-ORD leg, I took full advantage of the seat recline and found that I could actually sleep comfortably either on my back or on my side, which resulted in the most comfortable rest I’ve had on an airplane (bear in mind that I have not flown longhaul C/J or F). It felt more like an angled lie-flat than a standard seat. For 180 Euros roundtrip, KL’s Economy Comfort is well worth the cost and is an intriguing “starter” premium economy product.

Feb. 6, 2011
KL1613
Equipment: 737-800
Class: Economy
Seat: 29A
Dep: 09:20 (Actual, 09:20)
Arr: 13:45 (Actual, 13:15)

Please Note: due to darkness, I did not have an opportunity for planespotting at AMS on this particular leg, but I have several photos from the spotting that I did on the return trip, which I will post as part of the final installment of this report.

Early morning at AMS was surprisingly quiet. I wandered around the amusement park-like halls searching for a proper breakfast. I opted to enter one of the Irish-style pubs, which transported me to what felt like a time warp. Outside, clouds had rendered the atmosphere pitch black. Inside, I was surrounded by similarly bleary-eyed travelers drinking beer in a pub setting. My internal clock told me that it was 12:30 a.m., Chicago time, and my surroundings made it difficult to believe otherwise. Nonetheless, I ordered the full Irish breakfast and a cup of coffee and opened my laptop for a check of the news and e-mail while enjoying the first non-airplane meal of my trip.

After a leisurely breakfast, I paid my bill, put my laptop back in my backpack, and made the short stroll to the gate, where a few passengers had already begun to convene outside security (note: security scanning/metal detection are performed at the gate at AMS. This is also the case at IST). Soon, airport staff informed us that security was open, and after a quick trip through the metal detector, I was in the gate area staring at the blue 738 that would serve as my ride to IST.

I approached the desk to inquire as to whether I could change my pre-assigned aisle seat to a window, and the smiling gate agent gladly obliged.

Boarding was soon called by elite status level and then by row, and as I entered the aircraft, I noticed that 1) there appeared to be no difference between “business class” and coach and 2) seat pitch on this aircraft was going to prove a tight squeeze.

Boarding ended quickly due to another light load of pax. Pushback, taxi, and takeoff roll commenced soon after, and we were airborne for the 2 hour, 50-minute flight to the eastern edge of Europe.

Due to space constraints, I did not take interior pictures on this flight or on the IST-AMS leg, though I did indulge in a couple of winglet shots.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446197441/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446197501

Lunch consisted of water, cold cuts (a slice of ham, a slice of cheese, and a roll), and a small piece of blueberry cake. After the small meal, I drifted off to sleep, only to awake on final descent into sunny, 65-degree Istanbul, where domes and Byzantine architecture were already visible from roughly 5,000 feet above the city.

Upon disembarking, I proceeded to one of the well-marked visa offices, where a surly, mustachio'd man behind a glass service window collected $20 and slapped a postage stamp-sized visa, adorned with an image of the Blue Mosque and Turkey's signature crescent and star into my passport. The adjacent immigration line was massive, since only one window (humorously labeled “Fast Track”) of 14 total windows was operational. After half an hour in the hot, crowded immigration line, I finally presented my passport to the immigration officer, who promptly stamped it and sent me on my way into the latest addition to my list of countries visited.

To be continued…

N830MH

You should considering to take on DL from ORD-JFK-TLV is a easier way to do it. You won't needs it for multiple stops in AMS & IST. Why you didn't like it to take on DL nonstop from ATL or JFK-TLV? I know what exactly going on and it was always oversold for everyday and does not have enough seat available left.

zcat18

Yes, DL and UA/CO both go ORD-TLV via ATL or JFK (DL) and EWR (CO), respectively. You can also take LH via MUC or IB via MAD. If this had been a mileage run or a trip specifically designed to earn miles, I would have taken UA/CO. However, the original plan was to visit IST only, since KL had a fare sale to that destination. I decided two months after booking my KL flights that I would like to split my week between IST and TLV.

Interesting you should mention load factors. Loads were very light on the IST-TLV leg on TK (40%-ish) as well as on the ORD-AMS/AMS-ORD legs on KL (60% or so).

zcat18

Before continuing, I offer a brief photographic interlude featuring images of Istanbul taken between Feb. 6-Feb. 8, 2011:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446799374/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446198037/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446800724/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446801372/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446200503/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446802618/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446803448/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446804970/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446805182/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446203837/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446204263/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446204357/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446204119/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446843382/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446844058/

Next up: IST-TLV on TK Y

zcat18

Feb. 9, 2011
TK784
Equipment: A320
Seat: 22A
Class: Economy
Dep. IST: 7:40 a.m. (7:35, actual)
Arr. TLV: 9:40 a.m. (9:25, actual)

A note on Turkey: The weather was fantastic, the architecture wonderful, and one would be hard pressed to find warmer people anywhere in the world. I certainly hope to return and see more of this fascinating country.

On with the TR...

Despite the early hour, I awoke well before my alarm, which was set for 4:45 a.m.--well before the first stirrings of activity on the streets of Istanbul. I felt the familiar sense of excitement welling within as I anticipated my first-ever flight on TK and a return trip to one of my favorite destinations (a second home of sorts, though I do not make it there as often as I wish I could). My pre-ordered taxi arrived ten minutes early, at 5:20, and after dropping my room key with the hotel's sleep-deprived night attendant, whom the cab driver had clearly woken, I was off to Attaturk Airport (IST). As we drove along the Sea of Marmara in the early-morning darkness, the cab driver suddenly pressed hard on the brakes and made an abrupt U-turn.

Not particularly pressed for time, I hesitated to ask what the problem was but, not wishing to be price gouged as a foreigner (unlikely, since this car service was pre-paid), I politely asked if everything was alright.

"I left license in office," the driver replied with a scowl.

Fair enough. These things happen, especially at a hair after 5:00 a.m.

The detour took only a few moments, and within 25 minutes, we were at the IST international departures curb. I collected my luggage and continued through the security checkpoint just inside the automatic double doors. Security at IST is fairly rigorous--not as rigorous as TLV, but one certainly feels confident that he or she will be traveling in safety.

Check-in was already open for the TLV flight, which itself required extra security and questioning. One counter was used for the flight, and only one other set of passengers--a couple--looked to be in line. When I approached the security line, an officer asked me if I was traveling to TLV. When I answered in the affirmative, he asked for my passport and proceded with the standard enhanced security questions ("Are these bags yours?" "Who packed them?" "Did anybody give you weapons?"). I will note that this measure was taken only for flights to TLV. After the friendly security officer returned my passport, I stepped to the counter, where a surly (probably tired) young female agent checked my suitcase. I asked if I could please have a window seat, and though she barely nodded her acquiescence, I was indeed given seat 22A.

I then proceded through another round of passport control and into the fairly busy IST shopping/dining area.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446243889/
IST Departures

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446844760/
IST shopping area. Notice the sleek-looking high-def screen featuring a rendering of the Istanbul skyline. This screen continuously scrolled various advertisements and themes. Also notice the Gloria Jean coffee stand in the center of the shopping area.

After browsing the duty free shops, buying a shot glass for a coworker who collects them, and grabbing a cup of coffee, I headed to the gate. The gate for TLV was the very last gate at the end of a secondary hall downstairs of the bulk of IST's departure gates. Security was performed at the bottom of an escalator, and as I approached the gate itself, I realized that the gate area for TLV only was roped off--that only TLV passengers were allowed into this area--and that another round of passport control was being performed.

Upon meeting the approval of the security officers, I was let into the gate area, from where passengers would be bussed to a remote stand. Shortly after entering the gate area, another member of security personnel asked all TLV passengers to begin forming a line near the gate door. The plane was not boarded by class or row. All passengers simply queued at the door and were let onto the bus on a first-come, first-served basis (though not before having our passports checked yet one more time).

I noticed that the bulk of passengers on this flight were Indonesian Christians on an organized spiritual tour to Israel. Other than this group, a smattering of Israelis and Turks, and one American family, the plane was empty (well, not empty, per se, but no more than 40% full). It took only two buses--one full load and a second bus with a few stragglers--to board the plane, and we pushed back from the stand five minutes before our scheduled departure time.

The most striking element of TK's shorthaul product is the legroom, or lack thereof. Full disclosure: I am a short dude. It does not take much in the way of seat pitch to make me comfortable. This product was not comfortable. I offer exhibits A and B:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446244093/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446244159/

There was barely room to stow my small backpack under the seat in front of me, and doing so required some significant gymnastics. None of this mattered particularly for a flight of fewer than two hours, but if this is the standard regional Y product, then it would be decidedly miserable on a flight of much longer than this one. Business Class did not offer much more.

Several regional flights to destinations like Kiev, Moscow, and Ljubjana were departing within this window, but it took little more than ten minutes from pushback for us to blast into the clear Turkish morning and make the southward turn toward the Middle East.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446845166/
TK A320 Interior

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446244627
Detail of airshow as our a320 continues abeam the Mediterranean, just off the Lebanese coast on descent into TLV

The mountains and lakes of southern Turkey:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446244227/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446244299/

------------------------

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446244417
Crossing northern Cyprus on decent into TLV

Shortly after takeoff, drink orders were taken (I had a cup of black coffee--standard weak airplane fare) and Y-class menus were distributed, a nice touch and one that was not repeated on the return trip. I apologize in advance that most photos of the menu are sideways.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446849860/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446249027

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446850086/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446249187

Menu

Plum Cake

Breakfast Selection:

Feta cheese, gouda cheese
Smoked turkey ham [all TK dining options meet Halal standards]
Marinated black and green olive

Ovenfresh bread selection

Butter/jam

Freshly brewed coffee or tea

The physical menu itself, in my opinion, was more remarkable than the actual food. The meats and cheeses were soggy and presented in miniscule portions. However, this was more than adequate for breakfast on such a short flight.

Half an hour before landing, trays were collected and descent/arrival announcements were made. We made landfall over downtown Tel Aviv shortly before touchdown and arrived 15 minutes ahead of schedule.

Disembarkation into the attractive, hyper-modern limestone TLV terminal was quick, and after a few minutes of rigorous questioning by the young but stern female immigration officer, my passport was approved and I was on my way to pick up my rental car and begin the 30-minute drive to Jerusalem.

To be continued...

zcat18

Photographic interlude #2--Jerusalem:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446245333/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446245121/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446846306/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446245779/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446846564/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446246137/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446246311/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446246515/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446847526/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446847744/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446247053/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446847992

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446848230/

Next up: TLV-IST on TK, a short night in the IST Airport Hotel, and rare birds at AMS on the homebound journey.

N830MH

Another fabulous TR!! I'm glad you went to TLV. Did they tell you from Israeli government to remains in the seated for 30 minutes rule to/from Israel airspace restrictions? Did you go through secondary screening at the gates? How is security doing? I wasn't aware of the suspicious behaviors during in-flight and I don't see any problems the flight at all.

zcat18

Thanks, N830MH! Really glad you're enjoying the report so far! Good questions, too.

I had forgotten about the 30-minute rule. One the way to TLV, the only sign that it might have been enforced was the fact that the captain turned on the seatbelt sign and announced descent while we were still over Cyprus--roughly 30 minutes from TLV. This was a clever way of enforcing the rule without explicitly stating it as a regulation or making pax feel micromanaged. On the way back to IST, the captain made an announcement as soon as we entered Turkish airspace, but I don't recall the seatbelt signs being illuminated for more than 10 minutes after departure.

There were several rounds of screening on the way to TLV (I'll talk about the process of leaving TLV in my next post). IST has two rounds of security screening for all pax, regardless of destination: once immediately upon entering the airport from the curbside, and once at the gate. There was an extra round of security questioning for TLV pax before check-in, and then three extra rounds of passport control (including one round just to be let into the gate area for the TLV flight).

There was nothing out of the ordinary about the flights themselves, and nobody acted differently than on any other flight to any other destination. I go to TLV every couple of years and have always flown LY, but the experience on TK was the same. Other than the miniscule seat pitch, I have no complaints about the TK experience.

zcat18

Feb. 12, 2011
Flight TK 789
Class: Economy
Seat: 18A
Dep. TLV: 7:35 p.m. (8:15 actual)
Arr. IST: 9:55 p.m. (10:05 actual)


Disclaimer: This is where my photos become a bit scarce. I chose not to take pictures at TLV for security purposes (or, more accurately, because I did not feel like being approached by TLV security personnel and asked not to take photos) and was too cramped on my TK flight to pry my camera out of my pocket. My apologies. Pics will resume at the IST Airport Hotel and at AMS.

Three days in Israel passed in a blur of new friendships, road trips, and excessive walking (and drinking), and before I could blink, it was the morning of my final day and time for me to prepare for the long trip back to Chicago, which would include an overnight stop in IST and a 5:55 a.m. departure to AMS before finally making the trek back across the North Atlantic to the American Midwest.

Having spent the previous evening discussing topics ranging from politics to Quentin Tarrantino films with friends until the wee hours of the morning, I awoke at the leisurely hour of 10:30 a.m., caught up on news, took a shower, and packed my suitcase and backpack for the upcoming homeward journey. My plan was to return my rental car and then to take a taxi into downtown Tel Aviv, do some last-minute shopping and grab one last falafel fix before leaving the country.

After checking out of my hotel (the Caesar Premier Jerusalem, which, by the way is a fantastic value in a very good location--just a tip for anyone planning a trip to the region), I loaded up my tiny Nissan and headed toward Tel Aviv, stopping for gas along the way at one of the few stations open on Shabbat. 20 minutes later, I pulled off of Route 1 and into Ben Gurion Airport, following the signs for rental car return.

Returns for all rental car companies are performed at the same remote stand at Ben Gurion, with each company having its own small area to operate. I pulled into the Budget driveway and unloaded my luggage while an employee inspected the car.

When I approached him to hand him the keys, he looked at me with a concerned expression and said, "there is some new damage here. Do you know how this happened?"

"What??" I thought. I most certainly had not hit anyone or anything during my Israeli driving experience, nor had I been hit by another car. Nonetheless, the left fender was indeed heavily scratched. I can only imagine that, while parked at the hotel, somebody pulling out of or into the space beside me had brushed against the car, causing the damage and ultimately costing me up to $500 in repairs (I am still waiting to hear the final figure, which I hope the insurance I purchased will cover). Dejected, I signed the "damage report," collected my things, and, budget apparently blown, headed to the airport for the excruciating 7-hour wait for my flight. I would not be heading into Tel Aviv after all.

After showing my passport to a young security officer outside the check-in area and assuring him that I had no weapons in my baggage, I entered the airport and looked at the departures screen, which confirmed that my TK flight was not yet open for check-in. I made my way down to the arrivals hall and ordered a Greek Salad at a food stand, and once finished, moved to a seat in the waiting area and read, eyelids growing heavy with fatigue. A check of my watch indicated another 5+ hours until my flight, so I settled into the seat and dozed off.

I awoke an hour later, having been spotted by a security officer who was approaching. He asked in a friendly manner why I had been sitting there so long, as well as to see my passport. I told him that I was waiting for a 7:35 flight, and as soon as I answered, he smiled, thanked me, and walked away.

After another hour of reading, I made my way to the departures level, where I discovered that my flight had just opened for check-in. I proceded to the pre check-in security line and commenced the typical TLV departures security experience:

1. Showed passport to plain-clothes security officer to enter security line.
2. Answer questions on length of stay in Israel, purpose for the visit, and personal background.
3. Answer second round of similar questions (abridged, since I had already passed the initial screening).
4. Run luggage through x-ray machine.
5. Wait in line for luggage to be hand-inspected.
5a. Be happy when told that I would not have to open my luggage and that I could proceed to check-in.

I approached the check-in counter and handed the young, attractive female agent my passport. She smiled when she opened it and remarked that we both had the same last name. I tried to craft a clever, smooth response ("I hope we're not related," perhaps?) but could only muster, "Really--small world!" Thankfully, I am happily involved in a relationship at home, so flirtation was not a priority for me. Apparently, however, I was not the only one with similar ideas. A young male security officer standing near the counter, who had been engaged in conversation with the agent, winked at me and said, "yes, small world indeed!" as if to hint that he knew what I might be thinking. I chuckled. The agent asked if I wanted a window or aisle seat, and I replied that I would like a window. The security officer said, "yes, window. That is the best choice. Who ends up in the middle anyway?" "The unlucky ones," I replied, to which the security officer laughed heartily.

My bag checked and boarding pass in hand, I proceded to another round of normal airport security and passport control, breezed through, and strolled through the mall-like TLV terminal. I am a big fan of this terminal. Hyper-modern with a hub-and-spoke design (shops and food in the two-story central atrium with lettered departure halls extending from it) and pleasing, curved lines of architecture.

I have access to the Dan Lounge, but it was closed at this particular time, probably for Shabbat, so I simply browsed the various book and electronics stores, took advantage of the airport's free wifi on offer, and proceded to my gate about an hour prior to departure. On my way to the gate, I saw the check-in agent and security officer strolling together, and I wondered if, perhaps, they were friends or a couple outside of work. Alas, I would never know.

Boarding was called roughly on time, at about 6:55 p.m. as a cattle call, but as soon as the snaking line formed, an announcement was made that, due to "air traffic," boarding would be pushed to 7:30, with a new departure time of 8:05.

Boarding commenced at the new time, and I settled into seat 18A for the short hop to IST. This A320 was roughly identical to the one that had brought me to TLV, except for the fact that these seats, while of the same liliputian pitch as those on the inbound flight, were solid blue leather instead of teal with beige trim.

Pushback and takeoff were uneventful, and service began roughly 20 minutes after liftoff with a small dinner and drink service. No menus were distributed, but this meal was, in my opinion, far better than the one on the inbound flight. It consisted of slices of roasted Turkey on a bed of lettuce in an eggplant puree-type sauce with what appeared to be a thick, tomato-based Turkish spread on the side. The main dish was accompanied by a warm dinner roll, small Mediterranean salad with two Greek olives and feta, and chocolate mousse for dessert.

The captain informed us once we had reached Turkish airspace--about halfway through the one hour, 40-minute announced flight time--and by five minuetes past ten we were wheels-down at IST.

The immigration line tonight was not nearly as long or as uncomfortably sweltering as it had been on my initial arrival in Turkey, but it was nonetheless approaching 11:00 by the time I retrieved my luggage.

Initially, I had planned to simply stake my claim in a corner of the airport and sleep there, since my flight to AMS departed less than seven hours later, at 5:55 a.m. However, the events of the day, the almost eight hours spent in the TLV airport, and the prospect of a 15-hour journey ahead of me made me sense that a few hours in a bed and a hot shower in the "morning" would suit me well. It would not be practical to head all the way into Istanbul for what would ultimately be a three-hour sleep, so my only alternative was the convenient but expensive Istanbul Attaturk Airport Hotel, which occupied the windowless ground floor of the airport itself. Simply reaching this well-hidden location was a small adventure, one that will kick off the final two installments of this trip report.

Coming up: The trek to the Attaturk Airport Hotel, three hours in a windowless room, and the final two legs of my much anticipated journey to Turkey and Israel. Stay tuned!

toast24

This report was utterly fascinating. I've been curious about KLM's economy comfort program for a while. Also loved the info about traveling to that part of the world - that trip is one that I would really like to take.

zcat18

Thanks, toast24! Economy Comfort is a very nice program, in my opinion. Very good value (US$240 roundtrip more than standard economy for twice the legroom and seat recline, plus early boarding and unlimited free booze). Low load factors on both legs make me wonder if it's profitable and sustainable, but I would imagine that it doesn't lose money on the Combis since the cargo business on those flights is quite lucrative for KL. Travel to the Mid-East is easy and fun--unfathomable amount of history to the region. Israel and Turkey are both excellent destinations, safe and easy to navigate as a tourist. Haven't been to Jordan but have heard nothing but great things (Petra is a side trip I've got my eye on for next time I'm in the neighborhood). I've heard positive things about Lebanon, as well, though it's sometimes a bit more difficult to access depending on the political situation.

------------------

A bit of an update on the rental car debacle: I found out yesterday that was charged $300 extra for the damage. Wondering why insurance didn't cover it (perhaps there was a deductible I'm not aware of?), but c'est la vie.

The last two legs of this TR should be posted by this afternoon.

zcat18

IST Airport Hotel

The final night of a big trip always feels strange to me. After a few days, a week, a month, or more of learning and discovery, there is a depressing element to the calm before the ordeal of heading home. As much as I love to fly, love to sample new airlines and products, and adore the buzz--the time warp--of an airport, the journey home is always tinged with sadness and is never as fun or exciting as the outward bound legs of a trip.

This trip proved no exception, and the feeling of melancholy began to settle in as soon as I passed through customs in IST. Here I was, back in the city of Istanbul, but the exploring and meeting of new people was in the past now. Instead, there were six hours until my departing flight--just enough time to find the airport hotel, make sure that it would not be setting me back another mortgage's worth of cash for the night, have a short nap, shower, and head back to the airport for the trip to AMS and on across the Atlantic.

I walked through the airport exit to the shuttles and stood under a sign indicating the pick-up area of the free shuttle to the Istanbul Airport Hotel, which I had been told was in "the next building," though this was an odd descriptor for a facility that was supposedly attached to the airport itself.

Standing on the island between the terminal and the parking garage, I waited. Families piled into vans and buses, but no shuttle to the hotel could be found. 20 minutes passed. 30. Would I have to sleep on the airport floor without a shower to wash away the grime before my 15-hour trek home to ORD?

Five more minutes passed, and I decided to take matters into my own hands. I set out walking, seeing no sign of a hotel--only the airport building and the long concourses extending from the main terminal. I did notice that, beyond the arrivals area, there was a small guard house near a parking lot that led, ultimately, to the cargo area. It was a strange part of the airport and was dead quiet. There was a construction site between the guardhouse and the cargo terminal. No way was this the right place...or was it?

I asked the guard how to get to the hotel, and to my surprise, he pointed across the construction site to a driveway that seemed to lead directly to one of the airside concourses, practically onto the tarmac. I followed his directions, and sure enough, marked with only a small sign and a revolving door, there was the Istanbul Airport hotel, located on the ground floor of one of the international concourses, practically hidden. I walked in and was surprised to find a very nice lobby area, complete with uniformed bellhops and all of the amenities of a middle-of-the-road Marriot or Sheraton--nothing mind blowing, but more than I expected.

To my relief, a room was available and somewhat affordable. By now, it was nearing midnight, and with a 3:30 a.m. wake-up call for my 5:50 flight, my overnight was quickly becoming little more than a short breather. All of the rooms lined a hallway that was as long as the concourse itself, one floor above the lobby. I was hoping for a room with a view of the apron, but when I opened the door, I found that the room, while modern, new, and tastefully appointed, was windowless:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446848888/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446848978/

It was also sweltering hot, and it remained so throughout my stay. Nonetheless, I was able to grab a few hours of sleep and my requisite shower, and four hours after entering my digs for the night, I was out the door and on my way back to the terminal.

Upon check-out, I was asked if I wanted to use the free shuttle. Why not? I walked outside expecting the shuttle to roll around the corner and pick me up, only to realize that it was, in fact, sitting right in front of the hotel, the driver snoring inside. Perhaps this explains why the shuttle never arrived at the pickup area the previous evening...

Flight: KL1610
Class: Economy
Aircraft: 737-800
Seat: 12A
Lv. IST: 5:55 (6:05 actual)
Arr. AMS: 8:30 (8:15 actual)

IST was reasonably quiet at 4:15 a.m., and as I made my way to the check-in counter, I noticed that I was among the first to arrive. I had checked in at the hotel in Jerusalem and upgraded myself to Economy Comfort for the long-haul, but I still needed to check my suitcase and obtain my boarding passes. As expected, my bag was checked through to ORD, and I received boarding passes for both legs.

I then made the zombie-like walk through passport control to the gate area, where the gateside security check was made available about 20 minutes before boarding, which was done by status (Flying Blue and Skyteam elites) and then as a free-for-all.

I admit that I have little to report about this flight, because I fell asleep soon after pushback and did not awaken until just a few minutes before touchdown. Breakfast was apparently served, which, according to my seatmate was a "soggy breakfast sandwich." I cannot say that I'm particularly upset to have missed that.

After a short taxi, the plane was blocked in at the gate, and I was on my way into the terminal for a four-hour layover.

I was a bit hungry but also felt a bit of a second wind, so I set off to do a bit of spotting at AMS:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446248233/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446849216/
Morning dew on one of the queens of the skies, "City of Johannesburg," destination unknown

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446849276/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446849362/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446849432/
KL MD-11 readying for the flight to Paramaribo, Suriname

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446849480
Fortress Delta: A330 tails headed to Houston, Minneapolis, Detroit, and Atlanta, with the proud nose of the KL MD-11 in the foreground

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446849668/
Iran Air a300 bound for Tehran

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446248839/
Malaysia 747-400 just in from Kuala Lumpur

After an hour or so of spotting and wandering AMS's endless concourses, I set out to fill my empty belly. Schiphol was a zoo this morning, with the early bank of arrivals from North America and Asia dumping connecting pax into the terminal to mingle with those passengers just in from shorthaul morning flights who would be connecting to some of those widebodies on early-afternoon departures to their respective North American, South American, and Asian destinations.

I made my way upstairs to the Pier 01 restaurant, where I was lucky to find an open table and a friendly waitress who, despite the masses sweeping through the establishment, looking for free space at the bar or in the dining area, promptly took my order for the "Pier 01 breakfast."

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446849584/
My 13-Euro airport breakfast

My appetite satisfied and my wallet all the lighter, it was time to make my way to the gate for the final leg of my trip, which I will detail in my next post.

Epilogue to the IST-AMS experience: Turns out--and I did not realize this until I returned to work the next day--I am entitled to access the Menzies Executive Lounge with my Diners Club International card. This would have provided me with a shower and a free snack, probably negating the need for a hotel room the night before or the visit to Pier 01. Live and learn.

zcat18

Flight: KL1611
Aircraft: 747-400 Combi "Rio de Jianero"
Class: Economy Comfort
Seat: 14A
Dep. AMS: 11:35 (11:40 actual)
Arr. ORD: 13:20 (13:40 actual)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/zcat18/5446849722/
My ride home to ORD

At last, it was time to make my way to the gate for the final, homebound leg of my trip. Like in IST, security at AMS is performed gateside. The security line for non-elites was long but moving rather quickly, and as always, I found European security personnel to be a bit kinder and gentler than their TSA counterparts. AMS utilizes the so-called "nudie scanner" body imaging machine, and interestingly, the viewing screen that the security personnel use to determine each passenger's suitability for flight is not in a private room, but instead is out in the open, adjacent to the machine itself. This does not bother me in the slightest, but it is simply worth noting. The screens are small, and because they are monitored by a human, it is impossible to get close enough to the screen for long enough to see any detail in the images.

I was selected for post-screening pat-down, which was identical to that which one receives in the U.S. Once through security, it was about 15 minutes before boarding. I wanted to use the washroom, but I realized that none existed after the security check. Ah well--was not an emergency, at any rate.

Boarding commenced with World Business Class, followed by Free For All. Unlike the ORD-AMS leg, Economy Comfort was not invited to board before standard Economy. I am not picky in these matters, but the inconsistency is worth noting. Economy Comfort is a new service, and I suspect that things will standardize as airline personnel become more accustomed to it. Perhaps it also has to do with the fact that the outbound flight was operated, at least at the gate, by a US-based ground crew, while the returning flight was operated by Dutch agents, who may not be accustomed to the over-compartmentalization of boarding procedures.

At any rate, I took the left turn upon entering the 747 and took my seat at the window, 14A. Luck was again on my side, and though I had a seatmate on the aisle, the middle seat was free, and because my seatmate was an unselfish gentleman, we were able to share the extra space without any problem (he graciously allowed me to put my backpack under the middle seat; he was able to put his papers, books, etc. on the seat itself).

Shortly after pushback, the captain announced a flight time of 7 hours, 55 minutes. Taxi and takeoff were unremarkable, and we were soon making the left turn over the English Channel, and ultimately, out toward the North Atlantic.

Service on this leg was slightly more professional though almost identical to what I experienced on the ORD-AMS flight. This flight attendant was older and appeared to be more experienced than the one on the first leg. Hot towels were distributed and drink orders taken about 20 minutes after takeoff, followed by lunch. What do you know, but I finally was able to sample the chicken tajine that I had been promised by the avod menu on the ORD-AMS flight!

This meal was, in my opinion, preferable to the outbound flight. It was fairly typical airplane food, to be sure (read: forgettable), but the chicken itself was quite edible if a bit soggy. It was an Indian-style dish with a cream-colored curry sauce, and I preferred the accompanying rice to the noodles provided on the first leg. Accompaniaments were Mediterranean salad, warm roll, and the apricot mousse, which was surprisngly light, refreshing, and tasty, garnished with small pearls of dark chocolate.

Once dishes were cleared, I decided to take advantage of KL Economy Comfort's double recline and was quite impressed. Again, this is very much an Economy product, however, with no obstructions at my feet and the added recline, this felt more like an angled lie-flat seat than a typical Y one. I did slide down the seat a bit due to the angle, but this did not bother me, and I happily fell into a four-hour slumber.

I awoke over Canada feeling refreshed. I brough my seat back to upright and was able to get some reading done before the pre-landing snack service commenced. We were given the choice of a sweet or savory snack, and I went with the savory. Frankly, the snack did nothing for me. It was a greasy, pre-packaged ham and cheese bun, greasy, with extra grease and a generous helping of grease. Also, it was quite greasy.

After a few bites of the snack and a drink of water, I opened my window shade to take in the familiar midwestern scenery. We approached Chicago from due east, crossing into US airspace over northern Michigan, continuing southward, then descending across Lake Michigan. The captain announced and I enjoyed a fantastic view of downtown Chicago from an altitude of around 7,000 feet, after which we completed the direct approach into ORD, where we made a smooth touchdown roughly 45 minutes ahead of schedule.

Disembarkation was a bit awkward, as it was announced that "World Business passengers may deplane first, followed by Economy Comfort, and then Economy." However, the lower-deck World Business cabin was at the nose of the plane, meaning that Economy Comfort actually deplaned before half of World Business. Again--I tend not to care about these things, but given how many FT'ers feel about an airline's responsibility to uphold the perks of premium travel, I would imagine that it would be frustrating to certain business class passengers to see Economy Comfort deplaning first.

We arrived at the same time as a Korean 747 from Seoul, but I was in for one last stroke of luck. An entire wing of the immigration hall had opened just as I entered the area, and I was the first passenger from either plane to enter the immigration "line" (which did not yet exist). Somehow, I was first to clear (the very friendly immigration agent asked a few standard questions, mentioned that my trip must have been a blast, and asked when my next trip would be before smiling and welcoming me home). After a 20-minute wait for my luggage, I was out the door into the unseasonably warm Chicago afternoon, another successful trip now complete.

Final Thoughts

-As I mentioned earlier, I was a fan of KL's Economy Comfort product. 180 euros roundtrip bought early boarding (at least on one leg), a semi-private cabin, double legroom and recline, low pax loads, slightly more personal service, and early deplaning. The added recline had a significant positive impact on my ability to sleep, and as a result, I essentially had zero jet lag upon my return (which made the next day back at work a relative breeze). Overall, this product, despite one or two kinks, earns high marks from me and a recommendation to anyone looking for a bit more comfort and a better sleep without parting with the miles or $$$ necessary for a premium cabin.

-I was generally disappointed by TK, though I also acknowledge that this was the short-haul product and likely is not an indicator of the quality of the longhaul product, which appears to have garnered generally positive reviews. The TK a320 was among the least comfortable seat configurations that I have experienced, with notably less pitch than even US-based domestic carriers (makes WN look almost posh). Nonetheless, service was professional, though the food did not live up to the standard that I've come to expect from European carriers, even on shorthaul routes. If the price is right, then there is no reason to avoid TK, since a bit of discomfort for a 1-3-hour flight is tolerable, but for those who are particular about this sort of thing (and if you're even moderately tall, then you probably should be, in this case), I would look at other options before choosing TK.

I hope that this report has been helpful to you. Please feel free to criticize (I'm always looking to improve, and I know that there were fewer pictures here than most would probably like) or to let me know if you would like more detail on any element of the trip. Many thanks for reading, and safe travels!

KLflyerRalph

Hi zcat18! Thanks for the TR! There aren't alot of detailed TR's about KL's Economy Comfort, so I certainly appreciated your detailed description.
However, please note that this isn't a Premium Economy class! Only benefit is the legroom and 2 times the recline, with the priority boarding you were just lucky, believe me (as a frequent to the KL forum, I never even heard of it!). Alcohol is also free for all passengers on all KLM flights, and food is the same for Y and EC. The semi-private cabin is also only on the 747.
Still, I'm glad you had comfortable flights, as many have criticized KLM's EC.

Gnopps

Great and detailed report, thanks for the long read!