Krabi/Khao Lak/Khao Sok - couple of words after short visit
Mar 31, 2016, 2:25 am
#1
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Krabi/Khao Lak/Khao Sok - couple of words after short visit
So it happens that within a month I and my wife travelled to Thailand twice. First, a month ago it was Phuket - we spent four days there next to Surin beach. On one of those days we did travel up to Khao Lak for a day trip and we decided to on next upcoming arrival to stay there. For sure, we won't be going back in Phuket.
We arrived at Krabi, got our rental car at Thai Rent a car (with additional insurance - US $84 for 4 days) and head on towards Khao Lak where we had booked Gerd and Noi hotel. Word of advice - google maps took us thru roads 4090/4020 which go thru bunch of hills with curvy roads. I have a feeling that taking Highway 4 all the way would take the same time but without hills.
Gerd and Noi's accommodation was what we expected based on reviews - simple, quiet, provides most of the stuff you need for comfortable stay (yet, I'd be glad if they had a small kettle inside units for those who prefer to make their own tea/coffee) and affordable. As with most budget/mid range accommodation, you would be better if you book and pay with OTA (Agoda/expedia/etc) than at their website or on spot. In our case one night thru Agoda was $49, all taxes/fees included, but it did not include breakfast (see below). The property is right next to the beach, it is 1 min walking away.
Bang Niang's area was surprisingly good for food options and nightlife, we twice had excellent meal at Na Suang and dinner at Siam Restaurant. For breakfast I would not recommend to eat at hotel because there are better options available - Bistro Bang Niang has really good baguette sandwiches, for example. We had excellent massage at Parsap Massage which is close to the entrance of the street, across the market. I would definitely recommend them, despite the fact that they charge slightly above average prices.
For activities - hike at Khao Lak-Lam Ru National Park (which is right next to Bang Niang, entrance is on top of the hill) following with relaxing and swimming at sandy beach is must, however make sure that you have at least minimum level of fitness.
Other nature places/waterfalls/beaches within 30-45 min drive from Bang Niang are plenty, but we get early one day and left for Khao Sok NP. It was highlight of our trip - hiking thru bamboo grass rainforest, swimming at river with curious fish which were not shy at all. Please note - on park's map furthest point of interest/waterfall is marked at 7km distance from the entrance and there are number others at distances of 3/4/5/6km. You might think it is not too far away. Not so - the trail is wide only first 3km but with lots of ups and downs. It ends at the ranger station/drinks stall
and after that it is single person trailhead in the middle of jungle. If you plan walk all the way to the end, make sure that you arrive at the park before 10AM, have walking stick and at least 1L of water with you per person - round trip will take 8-9 hours.
On our last day went back to Khao Sok, but this time travelled further to Ratchaprabha Dam and Cheow Lan Lake. While the dam and facilities around left quite a good impression, not the same can be said about boat transportation options at the lake. We originally planned to get half day boat ride/tour, but after looking at prices, we decided against it. I was looking for a shorter/day trip option and could not find one. On the whiteboard are are listed destinations from the pier and minimum price I saw was 2100THB for a return trip. If you want to stay overnight and come back, prices are 1.5x/2x of that. Please add to that you need to pay 300THB per person per day for park visit (even if you stay inside the park), plus accommodation cost and it becomes quite expensive (to me) very quickly.
We arrived at Krabi Town (where we stayed just for one night before the return flight) earlier than we planned but it ended up that it was totally worth the effort. We stayed at Hop Inn, which is ablolutely no frills place, but brand new and has everything one could want for $23/night accomodation. Just make sure that you ask a room on higher floor facing parking lot to avoid street noise.
We had nice stroll at Ao Nang beach followed with excelled dinner nearby. Krabi Town does deserve second look and it worth to spend couple of nights there. Prices are 1/3 of what you will get at Phuket - like Thai massage is 200-250THB vs 350-400 in Phuket. Food is priced accordingly. Have not checked prices for transportation via taxi/boats.
One word of advice: in Khao Lak credit cards are accepted only at high end places, so you need to have adequate amount of cash. And if you plan to exchange to THB, don't do it there (Khao Lak) because there are four exchange booth but all of them have exactly the same (they even use the same printed sheet for rates) very bad exchange rates - 1USD for example with $10/$20 notes was 32.30THB, while market rate was 35.30. So make sure that you exchange your money somewhere else.
We arrived at Krabi, got our rental car at Thai Rent a car (with additional insurance - US $84 for 4 days) and head on towards Khao Lak where we had booked Gerd and Noi hotel. Word of advice - google maps took us thru roads 4090/4020 which go thru bunch of hills with curvy roads. I have a feeling that taking Highway 4 all the way would take the same time but without hills.
Gerd and Noi's accommodation was what we expected based on reviews - simple, quiet, provides most of the stuff you need for comfortable stay (yet, I'd be glad if they had a small kettle inside units for those who prefer to make their own tea/coffee) and affordable. As with most budget/mid range accommodation, you would be better if you book and pay with OTA (Agoda/expedia/etc) than at their website or on spot. In our case one night thru Agoda was $49, all taxes/fees included, but it did not include breakfast (see below). The property is right next to the beach, it is 1 min walking away.
Bang Niang's area was surprisingly good for food options and nightlife, we twice had excellent meal at Na Suang and dinner at Siam Restaurant. For breakfast I would not recommend to eat at hotel because there are better options available - Bistro Bang Niang has really good baguette sandwiches, for example. We had excellent massage at Parsap Massage which is close to the entrance of the street, across the market. I would definitely recommend them, despite the fact that they charge slightly above average prices.
For activities - hike at Khao Lak-Lam Ru National Park (which is right next to Bang Niang, entrance is on top of the hill) following with relaxing and swimming at sandy beach is must, however make sure that you have at least minimum level of fitness.
Other nature places/waterfalls/beaches within 30-45 min drive from Bang Niang are plenty, but we get early one day and left for Khao Sok NP. It was highlight of our trip - hiking thru bamboo grass rainforest, swimming at river with curious fish which were not shy at all. Please note - on park's map furthest point of interest/waterfall is marked at 7km distance from the entrance and there are number others at distances of 3/4/5/6km. You might think it is not too far away. Not so - the trail is wide only first 3km but with lots of ups and downs. It ends at the ranger station/drinks stall
and after that it is single person trailhead in the middle of jungle. If you plan walk all the way to the end, make sure that you arrive at the park before 10AM, have walking stick and at least 1L of water with you per person - round trip will take 8-9 hours.On our last day went back to Khao Sok, but this time travelled further to Ratchaprabha Dam and Cheow Lan Lake. While the dam and facilities around left quite a good impression, not the same can be said about boat transportation options at the lake. We originally planned to get half day boat ride/tour, but after looking at prices, we decided against it. I was looking for a shorter/day trip option and could not find one. On the whiteboard are are listed destinations from the pier and minimum price I saw was 2100THB for a return trip. If you want to stay overnight and come back, prices are 1.5x/2x of that. Please add to that you need to pay 300THB per person per day for park visit (even if you stay inside the park), plus accommodation cost and it becomes quite expensive (to me) very quickly.
We arrived at Krabi Town (where we stayed just for one night before the return flight) earlier than we planned but it ended up that it was totally worth the effort. We stayed at Hop Inn, which is ablolutely no frills place, but brand new and has everything one could want for $23/night accomodation. Just make sure that you ask a room on higher floor facing parking lot to avoid street noise.
We had nice stroll at Ao Nang beach followed with excelled dinner nearby. Krabi Town does deserve second look and it worth to spend couple of nights there. Prices are 1/3 of what you will get at Phuket - like Thai massage is 200-250THB vs 350-400 in Phuket. Food is priced accordingly. Have not checked prices for transportation via taxi/boats.
One word of advice: in Khao Lak credit cards are accepted only at high end places, so you need to have adequate amount of cash. And if you plan to exchange to THB, don't do it there (Khao Lak) because there are four exchange booth but all of them have exactly the same (they even use the same printed sheet for rates) very bad exchange rates - 1USD for example with $10/$20 notes was 32.30THB, while market rate was 35.30. So make sure that you exchange your money somewhere else.
Apr 2, 2016, 2:57 pm
#2
Join Date: Nov 2006
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Posts: 3,714
Overnight @ Cheow Lan lake floating house is on my wishlist. Maybe someday.
I also stayed a few days each in Surin Beach (DoubleTree) and Bang Niang Beach (Ramada). The Ramada and Bang Niang area are much better in every way, but still something was missing. I think it was a touch of authenticity. Even Khao Lak felt very manufactured and caters exclusively to foreign tourists. And it lacked the uniqueness of, say, Ubud, which is also very touristy but there are so many temples and farms to appreciate. I didn't see that in KL. The food was also expensive and disappointing; I had a few good meals but most were average.
The highlight of our trip, besides the amazing massages and freshly pressed juices, was a visit to Tachai Island, which I consider the most beautiful beach I've been to outside of Bora Bora. It was much less crowded than Similan Islands.
I did a day tour of Phang Nga Bay and I must say I enjoyed Halong Bay in Vietnam much more. However, the Muslim school on the floating community was interesting to see.
I have a different opinion of the FOREX booths in Bang Niang. When I was there, the rates were on par with Google's and more favorable than local ATMs, which also charge about $6 USD per transaction. You definitely want to avoid ATMs unless you have a debit card that reimburses fees.
Finally, to anyone who plans to do an elephant ride, please don't. Google "elephant ride" and you'll see why.
I also stayed a few days each in Surin Beach (DoubleTree) and Bang Niang Beach (Ramada). The Ramada and Bang Niang area are much better in every way, but still something was missing. I think it was a touch of authenticity. Even Khao Lak felt very manufactured and caters exclusively to foreign tourists. And it lacked the uniqueness of, say, Ubud, which is also very touristy but there are so many temples and farms to appreciate. I didn't see that in KL. The food was also expensive and disappointing; I had a few good meals but most were average.
The highlight of our trip, besides the amazing massages and freshly pressed juices, was a visit to Tachai Island, which I consider the most beautiful beach I've been to outside of Bora Bora. It was much less crowded than Similan Islands.
I did a day tour of Phang Nga Bay and I must say I enjoyed Halong Bay in Vietnam much more. However, the Muslim school on the floating community was interesting to see.
I have a different opinion of the FOREX booths in Bang Niang. When I was there, the rates were on par with Google's and more favorable than local ATMs, which also charge about $6 USD per transaction. You definitely want to avoid ATMs unless you have a debit card that reimburses fees.
Finally, to anyone who plans to do an elephant ride, please don't. Google "elephant ride" and you'll see why.
Apr 2, 2016, 11:18 pm
#3
Original Poster
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Virginia City Highlands
Programs: Nothing anymore after 20 years
Posts: 6,900
I also stayed a few days each in Surin Beach (DoubleTree) and Bang Niang Beach (Ramada). The Ramada and Bang Niang area are much better in every way, but still something was missing. I think it was a touch of authenticity.
Even Khao Lak felt very manufactured and caters exclusively to foreign tourists. And it lacked the uniqueness of, say, Ubud, which is also very touristy but there are so many temples and farms to appreciate. I didn't see that in KL. The food was also expensive and disappointing; I had a few good meals but most were average.
Even Khao Lak felt very manufactured and caters exclusively to foreign tourists. And it lacked the uniqueness of, say, Ubud, which is also very touristy but there are so many temples and farms to appreciate. I didn't see that in KL. The food was also expensive and disappointing; I had a few good meals but most were average.
The highlight of our trip, besides the amazing massages and freshly pressed juices, was a visit to Tachai Island, which I consider the most beautiful beach I've been to outside of Bora Bora. It was much less crowded than Similan Islands.
I did a day tour of Phang Nga Bay and I must say I enjoyed Halong Bay in Vietnam much more. However, the Muslim school on the floating community was interesting to see.
I did a day tour of Phang Nga Bay and I must say I enjoyed Halong Bay in Vietnam much more. However, the Muslim school on the floating community was interesting to see.
I have a different opinion of the FOREX booths in Bang Niang. When I was there, the rates were on par with Google's and more favorable than local ATMs, which also charge about $6 USD per transaction. You definitely want to avoid ATMs unless you have a debit card that reimburses fees.
Affirmative. The worse case, even than 'elephant ride' is Tiger Kingdom at Phuket with dragged tigers where Chinese and Russian tourists have blast by dragging them via tail and use them as pillows.
Apr 10, 2016, 4:39 am
#4
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Thanks for the great reviews. Not surprise you preferred Khao Lak, invisible. Not a fan of Phuket myself.
Apr 10, 2016, 6:42 pm
#5
Join Date: Nov 2006
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It is on Koh Panyi, the "floating village". It's a big tourist trap (with absolutely awful food) but the school is real (for kids of the merchants).
I went from north to south over 2 weeks. Halong Bay was the highlight. I highly recommend a 2 day, 1 night "deluxe" cruise. I resisted it due to the relative high cost (~$120 at the time IIRC), but it was definitely worth the splurge. We sailed at a relaxing pace. It was amazing to glide over hundreds of limestones while enjoying a multi-course meal with a window view. We kayaked among the towering limestones - the best kayak trip of my life. By night the day trippers have gone home - it's just your boat on the water. I really can't imagine anything more romantic than this. Alas, the perfect stillness was broken by the lady appearing in her canoe, offering items for sale floating market style. In the morning we observed monkeys on an island. There was also a beach stop. It was the stuff dreams are made of.
Contrast this to a day tour of Phang Nga bay, which took place on a *speed* boat (aka NOT relaxing and not romantic). There are better ways to do it but the consensus seems to be that Halong Bay has superior scenery in any case.
I have been in Vietnam but yet to see Halong Bay. Would you share what was your ITIN and how much did it cost?
Contrast this to a day tour of Phang Nga bay, which took place on a *speed* boat (aka NOT relaxing and not romantic). There are better ways to do it but the consensus seems to be that Halong Bay has superior scenery in any case.
Apr 11, 2016, 9:48 am
#6
Original Poster
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Virginia City Highlands
Programs: Nothing anymore after 20 years
Posts: 6,900
I might go again in Thailand, but this time I do know what to do and what not to:
- I will avoid to go in any island where you essentially are trapped and have nothing to do
- Car rental is essential. Thai Rent a Car so far was above expectations (which were at zero)
- Krabi is surprisingly not bad
- If you want to see real Thailand, avoid places where tourists go
- Thailand has number of National Parks which are really good to visit, if you are nature lover
- Absolute minimum Thai language is required - to order food, tell them not to put extra chili, order full tank of gas, say 'thank you', 'sorry', 'hello/goodbye' and couple dozen of other useful phrases.
- If you have local connection it will greatly simplify your travel and make it cheaper as well.
Apr 11, 2016, 9:51 am
#7
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Virginia City Highlands
Programs: Nothing anymore after 20 years
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Will keep in mind for next travel time in Vietnam. the problem with Vietnam is the same as with Thailand - it requires time and patience. Can't run from one place to another.