Restaurants and tips: Lisbon, Obidos, Coimbra, Duoro valley, Geres, Guimares, Porto
Jun 16, 2013, 2:19 pm
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: OSL
Posts: 2,145
Restaurants and tips: Lisbon, Obidos, Coimbra, Duoro valley, Geres, Guimares, Porto
We will spend our holidays in Portugal this summer, and have booked the following hotels:
Lisbon - Lapa Palace - 4 nights
Obidos - Pousada Castelo - 1 night
Coimbra - Quintas las Grimas - 1 night
Duoro Valley - Aquapura - 3 nights
Gerês - Pousada de Santa Maria do Bouro - 1 night
Guimares - Pousada de Santa Marinha - 1 night
Porto - Yeatman - 3 nights
We love good food and wine, both luxury fine dining but also charming local restaurants with great food and atmosphere and I was wondering if you would have tips for great places for lunch or dinner close to where we stay.
Additional tips for things to see and do, including side trips, would also be highly appreciated.
Thanks a lot!
Lisbon - Lapa Palace - 4 nights
Obidos - Pousada Castelo - 1 night
Coimbra - Quintas las Grimas - 1 night
Duoro Valley - Aquapura - 3 nights
Gerês - Pousada de Santa Maria do Bouro - 1 night
Guimares - Pousada de Santa Marinha - 1 night
Porto - Yeatman - 3 nights
We love good food and wine, both luxury fine dining but also charming local restaurants with great food and atmosphere and I was wondering if you would have tips for great places for lunch or dinner close to where we stay.
Additional tips for things to see and do, including side trips, would also be highly appreciated.
Thanks a lot!
Last edited by Musken; Jun 16, 2013 at 2:35 pm
Jun 18, 2013, 7:47 am
#2
Join Date: May 2013
Location: MAD
Programs: IB+, BAEC
Posts: 3,106
Assuming you are planning on going to Sintra and Cascais while in Lisbon.
Óbidos is incredibly small, you can see everything in a couple of hours. We stayed at Peniche about 15 minutes away from there which is a small peninsula/almost island with some spectacular views. Going north, you should definitely stop at Nazaré as well.
Other advice is to make sure you have tolls figured out because it's incredibly confusing and motorways don't accept cash. I'm pretty sure I still have unpaid tolls there, but we were in a Spanish registered car, so nothing happened.
Óbidos is incredibly small, you can see everything in a couple of hours. We stayed at Peniche about 15 minutes away from there which is a small peninsula/almost island with some spectacular views. Going north, you should definitely stop at Nazaré as well.
Other advice is to make sure you have tolls figured out because it's incredibly confusing and motorways don't accept cash. I'm pretty sure I still have unpaid tolls there, but we were in a Spanish registered car, so nothing happened.
Jun 18, 2013, 11:50 am
#4
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: OSL
Posts: 2,145
Assuming you are planning on going to Sintra and Cascais while in Lisbon.
Óbidos is incredibly small, you can see everything in a couple of hours. We stayed at Peniche about 15 minutes away from there which is a small peninsula/almost island with some spectacular views. Going north, you should definitely stop at Nazaré as well.
Other advice is to make sure you have tolls figured out because it's incredibly confusing and motorways don't accept cash. I'm pretty sure I still have unpaid tolls there, but we were in a Spanish registered car, so nothing happened.
Óbidos is incredibly small, you can see everything in a couple of hours. We stayed at Peniche about 15 minutes away from there which is a small peninsula/almost island with some spectacular views. Going north, you should definitely stop at Nazaré as well.
Other advice is to make sure you have tolls figured out because it's incredibly confusing and motorways don't accept cash. I'm pretty sure I still have unpaid tolls there, but we were in a Spanish registered car, so nothing happened.
I am aware that Obidos is small, but we have planned this trip with rather short drives and just a little bit to see and then time for looong meals plus time by the pool every day, so I do not mind that there is not a lot to see.
For the toll: We will have a Portugese rental car and we will bring credit cards. Is that OK? Or what else do we need to know?
We will stay in Guimaraes rather than go on a day trip from Porto, but will look at the other places you mentioned. Thanks!
Jun 18, 2013, 12:18 pm
#5
Join Date: May 2013
Location: MAD
Programs: IB+, BAEC
Posts: 3,106
Ask the car hire if they take care of it. If not, you'll have to stop at a full service gas station to pay it. We had some major language issues at this point, also but there was someone nearby who could translate between Spanish and Portugese. I don't know what kind of luck you will have with English at a place like that, so have a phrasebook ready or a written sentence or two.
Jun 18, 2013, 1:00 pm
#6
Original Poster
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: OSL
Posts: 2,145
Ask the car hire if they take care of it. If not, you'll have to stop at a full service gas station to pay it. We had some major language issues at this point, also but there was someone nearby who could translate between Spanish and Portugese. I don't know what kind of luck you will have with English at a place like that, so have a phrasebook ready or a written sentence or two.
Jun 19, 2013, 9:05 am
#7
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: PEK
Programs: A3*G, UA Gold EY Silver
Posts: 8,958
This is how the tolls work: on some motorways, you have toll booths. Most take credit cards, some do not. On other motorways it's just gantries with cameras, and you can pay those tolls at the post office between business day 3 and business day 5 days after using the motorways.
In most cases, the car rental agency can offer you a ViaVerde transponder to take care of tolls in both cases for a daily convenience fee + tools. Take it. It'll save you time and the hassle of paying the so-called ex-SCUT tolls that I mentioned above.
In most cases, the car rental agency can offer you a ViaVerde transponder to take care of tolls in both cases for a daily convenience fee + tools. Take it. It'll save you time and the hassle of paying the so-called ex-SCUT tolls that I mentioned above.
Jun 19, 2013, 4:37 pm
#9
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You'll notice that replies have been light on restaurant tips
Portugal really isn't a foodies delight - unless it's in sniffing out artesenal stuff like honey, preserves, olive oil, bread, pastries and a hundred different ways of curing pig meat. Cafes and pastry shops are an absolute joy if you have a sweet tooth - many towns have their own specialities to offer. And the wine's not bad at all!!
Lisbon and its surrounds have fancy restaurants, beautiful restaurants, fashionable restaurants and certainly expensive restaurants. Many of these are packed with tourists sent there by their hotel concierge.
Don't get me wrong, I love eating out in Portugal. There's no shortage of modest places to eat well. But Portuguese cuisine is peasant food: soups and stews bulked out with bread, simple meat dishes offered with rice AND chips, barbecued chicken. There are a number of restaurants offering modern twists on this, but that's a concept i find tiresome: and it's probably better to sample the basics before moving on to the evolved menus.
Bacalhau in its many forms is the national dish, but it's an acquired taste. The regional dish Porto is acclaimed for is tripe: that tells you a lot!
Fish and sea-food are probably your best bets, though lobster or crab are expensive anywhere, ruinously so in the fancier restaurants. As you'll be in Obidos you could drive out to Peniche, a fishing port with quite a selection of fish restaurants. I have my favourites, but they might not be yours, so just follow your nose and your ears, selecting well-patronised places.
From Peniche you can get a boat out to the Berlengas islands - quite an experience for a day trip. And just round the bay north of the town is the headland/island of Baleal and its surfers' beach.
Portugal really isn't a foodies delight - unless it's in sniffing out artesenal stuff like honey, preserves, olive oil, bread, pastries and a hundred different ways of curing pig meat. Cafes and pastry shops are an absolute joy if you have a sweet tooth - many towns have their own specialities to offer. And the wine's not bad at all!!
Lisbon and its surrounds have fancy restaurants, beautiful restaurants, fashionable restaurants and certainly expensive restaurants. Many of these are packed with tourists sent there by their hotel concierge.
Don't get me wrong, I love eating out in Portugal. There's no shortage of modest places to eat well. But Portuguese cuisine is peasant food: soups and stews bulked out with bread, simple meat dishes offered with rice AND chips, barbecued chicken. There are a number of restaurants offering modern twists on this, but that's a concept i find tiresome: and it's probably better to sample the basics before moving on to the evolved menus.
Bacalhau in its many forms is the national dish, but it's an acquired taste. The regional dish Porto is acclaimed for is tripe: that tells you a lot!
Fish and sea-food are probably your best bets, though lobster or crab are expensive anywhere, ruinously so in the fancier restaurants. As you'll be in Obidos you could drive out to Peniche, a fishing port with quite a selection of fish restaurants. I have my favourites, but they might not be yours, so just follow your nose and your ears, selecting well-patronised places.
From Peniche you can get a boat out to the Berlengas islands - quite an experience for a day trip. And just round the bay north of the town is the headland/island of Baleal and its surfers' beach.
Last edited by IAN-UK; Jun 20, 2013 at 5:38 am
Jun 21, 2013, 7:06 pm
#10
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: PEK
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Yea, as far as restaurants go, if you want the 'basic' Portuguese cusine, there's cod, there's various ways to make pork, grilled fish, sardines (if you're here during the right months), some good chicken dishes, and one or two good beef dishes. Lots of very reasonably priced seafood if you're close to the coast in a fishing village.
If you want to go local, find a place that has up to two languages in the menu and low prices. As a rule, I don't like eating at fancy places in Portugal, because service is usually better at family-owned local places. Anyone you ask will have their own favorites.
A few dishes to try:
If you're going to have bacalhau (cod):
-Bacalhau à brás
-Bacalhau com natas
Pork:
-Segredos do porco preto (grilled pork)
-Porco a alentejana (pork+clams)
In Porto try their francesinha (two pieces of bread, with 5-6 different types of meat in-between the bread, all covered with cheese, served with a special somewhat-spicy sauce and fries on the side.
I'm not very fond of tripas do Porto.
If you're going for a snack, especially on a warm day, there's nothing better than a prego no pão or a bifana with a cold beer. (Pork or beef sandwich).
Of course, if you see on any café/bar a sign saying "pastelaria própria" that means they bake their own things, and that usually gets you something good and fresh.
You HAVE to try pasteis de nata - custard tarts (anywhere in Portugal) and pasteis de Belém (only in Belém at one shop)
A local pastry shop chain that's worth visiting for their cake slices and pão de deus (coconut bread) is A Padaria Portuguesa.
As far as restaurants in Lisbon, if you want "local" I can recommend the following:
-Marisqueria Uma has great arroz de marisco (a portuguese take on seafood paella) with shellfish, crab, shrimp. Pairs very nicely with green wine.
-O Beco has good bacalhau dishes and is also cheap.
-O Marques is a very local place. Usually 1-2 fish dishes and 1-2 meat dishes every day.
In Sintra, whenever friends come to visit and we go there, I always have lunch at this place.
A touristy place, but definitely worth a visit is Pavilhão Chinês for after-dinner tea and drinks.
Maybe we should start another thread about Restaurants and Cafés in Lisbon
If you want to go local, find a place that has up to two languages in the menu and low prices. As a rule, I don't like eating at fancy places in Portugal, because service is usually better at family-owned local places. Anyone you ask will have their own favorites.
A few dishes to try:
If you're going to have bacalhau (cod):
-Bacalhau à brás
-Bacalhau com natas
Pork:
-Segredos do porco preto (grilled pork)
-Porco a alentejana (pork+clams)
In Porto try their francesinha (two pieces of bread, with 5-6 different types of meat in-between the bread, all covered with cheese, served with a special somewhat-spicy sauce and fries on the side.
I'm not very fond of tripas do Porto.
If you're going for a snack, especially on a warm day, there's nothing better than a prego no pão or a bifana with a cold beer. (Pork or beef sandwich).
Of course, if you see on any café/bar a sign saying "pastelaria própria" that means they bake their own things, and that usually gets you something good and fresh.
You HAVE to try pasteis de nata - custard tarts (anywhere in Portugal) and pasteis de Belém (only in Belém at one shop)
A local pastry shop chain that's worth visiting for their cake slices and pão de deus (coconut bread) is A Padaria Portuguesa.
As far as restaurants in Lisbon, if you want "local" I can recommend the following:
-Marisqueria Uma has great arroz de marisco (a portuguese take on seafood paella) with shellfish, crab, shrimp. Pairs very nicely with green wine.
-O Beco has good bacalhau dishes and is also cheap.
-O Marques is a very local place. Usually 1-2 fish dishes and 1-2 meat dishes every day.
In Sintra, whenever friends come to visit and we go there, I always have lunch at this place.
A touristy place, but definitely worth a visit is Pavilhão Chinês for after-dinner tea and drinks.
Maybe we should start another thread about Restaurants and Cafés in Lisbon
Jun 15, 2016, 6:39 pm
#12
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Saigon/Hanoi/San Francisco
Posts: 1,779
I'm researching for my trip to Portugal next month, here are some recommendations on where to eat in Porto and where to eat in Lisbon.
Nov 9, 2016, 11:59 am
#13
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recent article from AFAR, "Where to eat in Portugal according to a chef":
http://www.afar.com/magazine/where-t...ding-to-a-chef
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http://www.afar.com/magazine/where-t...ding-to-a-chef
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