LH738

The following trip report contains:
- long distance flights with Lufthansa in F
- flights in South America with Varig, Lan Peru, and Lan Chile in Y
- a tour through Bolivia, Peru, and Chile


I spent the last night before the trip started in one of my favourite Hotels: Sheraton Airport Hotel & Tower @FRA (the pictures are from another stay - but the room was the same). The service in the lounge is always superb and the buffet breakfast in the restaurant fantastic.

I left my office in Darmstadt at 17:00. At the airport, I went into the Red Carpet Club to take a shower. At that time, I was the only person there - no waiting necessary. I went to the Senator lounge later because it is better located to reach the gate (and Internet terminals are there, too).

Frankfurt - Sao Paulo (FRA - GRU)
Lufthansa LH502; 22:30 - 06:50+ (flight time: 12:20h); 14.10.2002
A340-313X; Seat: 2K; F-Class
Registration: D-AIFB (Gummersbach)

The TV monitors showed a delay of 30min and so boarding started at 22:30. There were two bridges to board the plane: one bridge for C- and F-class passengers, the other bridge for Y-class passengers. As far as to tell about theory. The Law of the Jungle determined the actual LH boarding process.

The F-class cabin in the LH A340 is great especially for people travelling alone: the configuration is 1-2-1 and there are only 8 seats.

After I had stored my luggage, an FA brought champagne (served from a tray with champagne or OJ), magazines, newspapers (from "tomorrow"), the amenity kits, and the hot towels that smelled of roses. She came again with the bottle of champagne for a much welcomed refill.

In the meantime boarding was complete with a load of 100% in all classes. The pilot welcomed the passengers and excused for the delay because the aircraft had arrived late. He announced a flight time of 11:40h so that there would be no delay any more in Sao Paulo. The flight path was Frankfurt - Basle - Grenoble - Barcelona - Alicante - Fes - Dakar - ... - Recife - Salvador - Belo Horizonte - Sao Paulo.

We were pushed back at 22:59: still a good time considering the announced delay and the cattle boarding process. We taxied to runway 25L and we were airborne 20min later.

Menus, beverages, and personal video programmes were handed out and hot nuts were served soon.


Dinner

Hors d'oevre
Caviar with the traditional Garnishes
Halibut Roulade with smoked Trout filling
Rabbit Broccoli Terrine and Carrot Emulsion
Wild Mushroom Mousse and marinated Vegetables

Salad
Frisée, Radicchio, Oak Leaf, lamb's Lettuce and Cremini Mushrooms
presented with Meaux Mustard Dressing or herbed Tomato Vinaigrette

Bread, Rolls, Toast and Butter


Entrees

Venison Medallion in a creamy Juniper Berry Sauce
with Savoy Cabbage Timbale and Sunchoke Puree

Red Snapper with Mustard Crust accompanied by Tarragon Seafood Fond,
Carrot and Leek Julienne and Basmati Rice Galettes

Eggplant Piccata with Basil Tomato Coulis
served with Artichokes and Asparagus

Breast of Guinea Hen in Balsamic Jus complemented by seasonal Vegetables
and Rösti Potatoes with Apple


Cheese and Dessert

International Cheese
French soft Cheese St André, Appenzeller, Bleu d' Auvergne, Gruyère and Morbier served with Grapes

Lemon Quark Mousse and tropical Fruit

Gingerbread Parfait Basel-style witll poached Figs


Fine Chocolates


Vinothek

Champagne
Mumm de Cramant, Champagne, Grand Cru, Cramant, France

White Wine
2000 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling trocken, Goldkapsel Germany
2000 Yarra Valley Chardonnay, Yaldara Farms, Australia
2001 Legado de Armida, Sauvignon Blanc, Santa Ines, Maipo Valley, Chile

Red Wine
1998 Château Lynch-Moussas, 5e Cru Classé, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France
1997 Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru, Burgundy, France
1998 Paul Sauer, Kanonkop, Stellenbosch, South Africa
1999 Norton Privada, Argentina
1998 Fiore, Sangiovese di Toscana, Castello di Meleto


One FA worked in the cabin while her colleague prepared the meals in the galley. The appetisers were arranged on a cart from which the passengers can choose the food. I started with caviar and cream. The FA offered another caviar and seamed a bit disappointed that I declined. I also wanted to try another appetiser: Halibut Roulade. Very delicious!
The salad was served from the galley. I had ordered the senf dressing. The main course looked good - and tasted good. The Red Snapper was scolloped with a firm and non-fat crust.
The dessert was again served from the cart. I had the Gingerbread parfait and finally - the highlight from any dessert cart - some pieces from the cheese selection. Some chocolates were served to accompany with coffee or tea.

Bedding and the LH sweaters were handed out. I had a short, but good sleep. I started reading until breakfast was served at 4:15. Only two passengers were awoke at that time and had the complete breakfast. The other passengers woke up later and had a short breakfast only.


Breakfast

Buffet

Freshly squeezed Orange Juice

Fruit Plate
Apple, Kiwi, Melon, Mango, Pineapple and Blueberries

Yogurt, Whole Grain ard Gourmet Müsli,
Cereal and fresh Milk

Bread, Rolls, Toast, Croissants, Muffins and Danish Pastries
with Butter, Diet Margarine, Preserves and Honey

A variety of cold Breakfast specialties
including Turkey Pastrami, Bresaola Ham,
Edam and Bresso Cream Cheese


Entrees
Scambled Eggs will be freshly prepared upon your request
accompanied by your choice of Bacon or Chives

Pancake with Blueberries and Maple Syrup Crème
enhanced by Fruit Chutney

or

Coffee or Tea
Freshly squeezed Orange Juice
Croissants


The breakfast was served from the cart - except the eggs or pancakes which were prepared in the galley and served from there. I had some fruits, cornflakes with OJ, and scrambled eggs. The bacon was cross and the selection of breads was manifold.

The pilot announced landing at 5:30 and we reached the gate at 06:08.


Overall the flight was great. The service was very courteous and the food delicious (full cutlery, no platic knife, thank goodness). I don't care about LH's "ancient" inflight entertainment. My favourite programme is available: the airshow (it's not possible to select an audio channel and switch to the airshow with keeping the audio channel. LH has a pre-selected music channel for the airshow and the music can't be changed. Other airlines and their IFE systems offer that feature.)

I went into the Varig lounge. The lounge is really nice and has a good selection of beverages and snacks. Free internet terminals are available in a separate room.

Sao Paulo - La Paz (GRU - LPB)
Varig RG8880; 10:15 - 13:55 (flight time: 04:40h); 15.10.2002
B737-3..; Seat: 11A; Y-Class
Registration: ?
Load: 100%
Push-back: 10:18
Arrival at the gate: 13:40
Remarks:
1.) 11A is an exit row seat with great leg room.
2.) There was a short stopover in Santa Cruz.
Food:
1.) first leg: fruits (3 slices), cream cracker, warm toast (good taste), cake, cheese
2.) second leg (from Santa Cruz): sandwich with cheese, salad, tomato (bad taste)

La Paz is easy to explore. The altitude (~4000m) leaves you breathless. There are some interesting museums and churches, an Indian market area and the moon valley. I continued to the Titicaca sea where I had a boat ride on a catamaran to the sun island, to some old ruins, and to Copacabana. I spent one night on the catamaran (narrow cabins! One night is enough) and enjoyed a nice sunrise. The waters of the lake are a beautiful blue, reflecting the hills and the distant cordillera.

I crossed the border to Peru in Yunguyo and arrived in Puno in the evening. The hotel Libertador is located on an island. In the next morning, I went to Juliaca where I entered the train to Cuzco: Perurail instead of Airail! The train is very comfortable (Inca class) and a lunch (menu with 3 courses and several choices) was served. The seats are armchairs and the last waggon has an observation desk. The train passes through beautiful landscapes with a variety of views to the life next to the tracks.

I spent the next days at the hotel Libertador which I highly recommend. Buffet breakfast is very good and the service is prudent.

Of course, Machu Picchu is a must. I took the first train to Machu Picchu which left Cuzco at 06:00. The ruins - staircases, terraces, temples - are impressive. I took the train back to Cuzco in the afternoon. The train arrives in Cuzco in the evening with some nice views. Cuzco offers a fascinating mix of Inca and colonial Spanish architecture - especially at night.
There are some magnificant Inca walls in Sacsayhuaman (a ruined ceremonial centre) on a hill on the northern outskirts. The Incaic stones are highly impressive - the view over Cuzco, too. San Cristobal is located next to Sacsayhuaman.
Some further Incaic sites are in the area: Qenqo, Tamba Machay, and some more.


Cuzco - Lima (CUZ - LIM)
Lan Peru LP024; 07:45 - 09:00 (flight time: 01:15h); 22.10.2002
A320-...; Seat: 10A; Y-Class
Registration: VP-BCK
Load: 50%
Push-back: 07:28
Arrival at the gate: 08:36
Remarks: 10A is an exit row seat
Food: warm sandwich, cake

I took the airport bus to the Plaza Mayor (Plaza de Armas). I already bought a return ticket for the evening, too. The bus is the cheapest way to drive to the centre or to the hotels.

Under the fog which seams to last 12 months of the year, Lima's colonial centre appears like an oasis amidst dirty houses and dusty hills. Much of the colonial building have been cleaned up. The churches are very impressive. Tourist Police is everywhere present and makes this area safe

Before darkness came in, I drove back to the airport with the airport bus and went into the airport lounge (thanks to my Platinum Elite/RoyalWings status with KLM). The lounge is shared by several airlines (KLM, Lan Chile, Air France, Delta, ... There's another lounge that is good for Priority Pass members). A good selection of beverages and some snacks/small sandwiches is available. A working/business area is separated, so it's quiet there. As far as I remember, the lounge was smoke free (except the separated working area). There are no windows/views.

... still working on the next part: Chile ...

RTW4

CONGRADULATIONS!! This is a wonderful report and the pictures make me want to post my next report coming up this weekend from JFK-NRT with pics as well. Thanks so much

Bretteee

Thank you for the pictures and report. Did you have problems with the altitude?

Tim2008

Excellent report!!!
Love the pics. Thanks for your work,LH 738

Tim

LH738

I was very careful. The first day, I only ate small and light portions and drank a lot of water.
During the whole time, I never felt sick - but the altitude was always present: I walked much slower than usual. If I walked quicker or went uphill or went upstairs or ..., I had to breath much quicker and anomalous. I wanted to see much more (and walk there) - but it wasn't possible. I had to walk slowly ...

The first day, I felt a pressure in the head which disappered the next day.

[This message has been edited by LH738 (edited 12-25-2002).]

FLYGVA

A very interesting report; the photos are fantastic. To with categorie belongs the room at the Sheraton you booked?

Jan

LH738

That's an executive room on a lower floor in the Tower section. From my reservation on the Starwood web site:
Room Features: Executive Rm, Buffet Breakfast, Voicemail, Coffee/Tea Maker, Dataport/Desk, Brand New Room With Large Working Area And Laptop Safe Aswel L As A Large Tv And Easy Chair To Relax. Nsm Rooms Available


The lounge (= check-in and check-out possible) is on the highest floor and the rooms on this floor and on the floor below do have better amenities (Escada Sport). The size of the rooms is the same (compared to the rooms on lower floors).
I've never managed to get a suite upgrade - the average load in this hotel is ~90% (= highest load within Germany). I normally book a "standard" room and get always an upgrade to an executive room (sometimes to a room with the better amenities).

airoli

Very nice report, thank you. I especially enjoyed the pictures.

------------------
airOli, the Swiss Air Line.

benoit

I need helping planning how to get from Macchu Piccu to La Paz, Bolivia. (From there I'd take the train to Arica, Chile). How did you cross the border and get between these places? I know about the train to Cuzco, can I take a nice one farther towards the border? Also interested in side trips in the area, you had some good ones in your report.

Thank you.

olafman

Top notch report! I love the attention to detail. I have a couple of CX FC reports and pics floating around on my laptop that I need to get up here. You've inspired me!

LH738

The train ( www.perurail.com ) goes between Cuzco and Puno/Juliaca (I drove by bus from Puno to Juliaca. Doing the complete trip Cuzco - Puno by train is better).

I had a 2-day boat tour on the Titicaca sea. The boat tour (catamaran) was operated by www.transturin.com . (There is another operator with hydrofoils: Crillon.) Transturin arranged a pick-up in La Paz (~2h drive to Chua where the catamaran starts), the tour on the lake (the catamaran drove to sun island and the next day to Copacabana) and the bus transfer from Copacabana to Puno with crossing the boarder (~3h; http://www.transturin.com/day.html ). The tour can also be done in one day which I'd prefer today: the night on the catamaran is not so much fun (narrow cabins) and you don't see much more compared to the 1 day trip. (I'd rather plan to visit the Uros near Puno.)

My schedule was very tight. I had no more side trips as those described in the report above. The hotels in Bolivia and Peru were (I can recommend all three hotels):
2 nights La Paz Hotel Presidente
(1 night Catamaran)
1 night Puno Hotel Libertador
3 nights Cuzco Hotel Libertrador


(I wasn't in Arica - but I met several people going from San Pedro de Atacama to Arica by bus. I still need some time to finish this part about Chile ...)

[This message has been edited by LH738 (edited 12-26-2002).]

SK

Very nice report, LH738. What camera did you use?

Skyhawk

One of the better trip reports LH 738. Superb camera shots of the terrain, especially from the train. Unlike anything I have seen. I to am speculating your camera is a digital 2.1.

Waiting for your return trip report with anticipation. You are setting the standard high for others on trip reports.

Seat 2A

What a nice Christmas present to return home to! Thanks for the great report and photos, LH738 ~ Both in the air and on the ground, your report was totally First Class! I hope I can fly LH First Class someday... In the meantime, I'll enjoy reading about it through your fine reports.

Looking forward to your flights home...

LH738

The camara is a Canon PowerShot Pro90 IS Digital (3.34M pixel CCD sensor delivering 2.6M pixel resolution image files; I reduce the size of the files with programs like "ThumbNailer" for the web).