Mats

I had been planning to go to Israel for maybe 15 years. It seemed like every time I’d start to plan a trip, tragedy would strike. Too afraid, I would go elsewhere. So I ended up going all over the world, but never to Israel. I think everyone imagined that I’d already been to Israel many times, but the truth was that I’d never gone.

Israel was in my travel plans in August, when war broke out and the liquid ban struck. There was no way I would travel to Israel amid such miserable conditions. I had gone on a lackluster trip to Puerto Rico instead (see prior trip report).

On the way back from San Juan, at I sat with two Continental flight attendants, who encouraged me to go. One had just returned and loved it. He didn’t feel unsafe and was a Puerto Rican guy. The other FA told me how gorgeous all of the guys are in Israel. I thought to myself, “Can I go tonight?”

The responses by friends and coworkers in Columbus were curious. “Why Israel?” “Do you have family there?” and “But you’ll miss Christmas!” where popular responses. Others were, “Oh be CAREFUL!” and “Do you want to get killed? Is that why you’re going?” It never occurred to anyone that maybe Christmas isn’t a holiday that I celebrate.

Although my miles are all on Continental, I really wanted to fly El Al. Furthermore, a business class ticket was substantially cheaper with Delta/El Al. $2500 seemed too good to be true, so I grabbed it. After all, it can’t hurt to have some mileage on more than one airline (Delta offline codeshare flights do not earn Continental miles.)

Check In
The airport was surprisingly busy for Christmas day. Most everyone was headed overseas and Delta’s two international check-in agents were quite busy. The family in front of me was checking in about 20 bags to Mumbai.

The agent, however, was pleasant and jovial. He did ask, however, “Where is Tel Aviv located?”

To my surprise and great pleasure, no SSSS appeared on my boarding card. As a single male traveling alone to Israel, I thought I was doomed.

I breezed through security and faced not raging power trips, which are commonplace at Port Columbus Airport TSA checkpoints.

And back out of the airport…
Once on the concourse, I realized that I didn’t have the power adaptor to my laptop. Aware that this would be a crucial item, I decided that I had no choice but to go get it. So I left the airport, got into an extortionately-priced taxi, realized that my keys were in my checked bag, and took a Xanax.

Fortunately, I had deliberately built in a long layover, so I was able to do everything without misconnecting.

I scaled the fence at my apartment to try to find my hidden spare keys… no luck, especially in the rain. So I called a friend, who drove over, let me in, and we took care of it. I was on the phone with Delta and El Al, who got me seats on a later CMH-JFK flight. And I called El Al to tell them I would be running late. No problem.
I checked in again and the Delta agents were cheerful and helpful. I had to pay the $25 change feel, but that was the least of my problems.

In the process, I managed to lose two library books in the airport or in the taxi. This involved a further visit to the concourse, back to the terminal to the lost-and-found, and once again to visit the TSA. More Xanax anyone?

25 December 2006 Delta/Comair 5524 CMH-JFK CRJ-50 Seat 1D
This was a remarkably full flight, given that it was Christmas Day. The overwhelming majority of passengers were not Americans, and many were clearly headed to India. This was a quick 1 hour 15 minute flight. We actually took off and landed early, but got to the gate late due to a lack of space.

Shannon, a rather calm and pleasant flight attendant, offered Biscoff biscuits and peanuts, as well as drinks.

Nobody enjoyed the 20 minute wait on the tarmac, but I think everyone knows that it’s not worth getting upset. I was mostly just bored because I had no books, didn’t feel like climbing over someone to get my computer, and there was no copy of Sky at my seat.

A Delta agent obtained my bag without any trouble; it had flown on the earlier flight. She smiled and wished me a good trip.

El Al Check in
I took the AirTrain to Terminal 4, where there was no line for El Al first/business; almost no line for economy.

I was scared out of my mind. I was expecting to be strip-searched, humiliated, quizzed on Hebrew prayers, and so on.

Nope. The questions were only slightly more elaborate than the questions by ICTS agents at European airports. A young man did ask if I belonged to a synagogue, how active I was, and when the last time was I went to shul. He also spoke to me in Hebrew, perhaps to see how I’d respond. He also inquired if I had a Hebrew name and which name was used at my Bar Mitzvah. He also asked which synagogue my parents belong to.

The whole thing took maybe three or four minutes, he swabbed my bag, showed my passport to someone else, and that was it. A friendly woman checked my bag and showed me to the lounge. Nothing to it.

The King David Lounge
The El Al King David lounge is nicely-appointed but small. As anticipated, there is a ton of food but not much liquor.

The lounge itself has no shower, but an agent escorted me to the Varig lounge next door. The shower was nothing like Air France or even the Delta BusinessElite lounge showers, but it still beat Continental. (Yes, I care a lot about these things.)

25 December 2006 El Al flight 2 747-400 Seat 75H
About 45 minutes prior to departure, I headed back through the last TSA checkpoint of the day. There were no words spoken by the TSA, and I like it that way. It took maybe five minutes.

There was a long line to board, which I assumed meant all kind of detailed questions and security procedures. Nope. Just a flash of the passport and on my way. I still imagined that I’d get pulled aside on the Jetway so that they could take the lining out of my shoes or go through my Outlook Calendar. No again. Just a smile and “Have a good flight.”

Shoshi and Shaul showed me to my seat, hung my jacket and welcomed me aboard the upper deck. They soon offered water, juice, and bubbly.

Although not lie-flat and not electronic, the seats are great: wide, soft, heavily cushioned, with seemingly more legroom than Continental or Delta. The wide cabin of the 747—even upstairs—helps.

The cabin was so calm and restful.

I started beaming when I heard the captain say, “B’ruchim Haba’im.” Music to my ears.

After a surprisingly expeditious departure, Shoshi and Shaul came around with a cocktail menu, cashews, cocktails, hot towels, amenity kits, and menus.

Service was comparable to Air France: not as glitzy as some, but certainly elegant, friendly, and attentive. It is definitely business class, not a business/first hybrid. But it’s hard to find fault.

I enjoyed a mixture of Campari, orange juice, and passion fruit syrup. Dinner was an unexciting but pleasant chicken dish. Menus to follow.

To my delight, El Al offers in-seat laptop power as well as wireless internet. So I am writing this trip report after dinner, as I turn back to watch to movies.

ak333

Great report so far. I haven't flown LY in J in years. Keep it coming.

eternalX

Geography is not one of our strong points. Most Americans are surprised to hear that there are other countries out there besides Canada, Mexico, and Iraq.

Mats

I slept for much of the night, thanks in part to the quiet upper deck and soft seat. I did watch Brokeback Mountain, which I had never seen. I felt a little self-conscious watching something so graphic, but it was still a good movie.

I was awoken by the women in front of me, who were not entirely “socially aware.” ”Hey Ma! You still asleep? I slept for three hours” This woman had no idea that the remainder of the cabin was still asleep. Shaul, the flight attendant, handled them with admirable grace and patience.

Shoshi, Avital, and Shaul then provided a gigantic breakfast. I skipped the main course, instead I gorged myself on yogurt, granola, warm pastries, bagels, etc.

After what felt like a quick hop across the Atlantic, we taxied to the new terminal at Ben Gurion. Business class passengers were permitted to disembark first. Shoshi wished me a pleasant trip.

Baggage claim took forever, but they did offload business class bags first.

I was asked to put my bags on a customs x-ray belt, but I the x-ray monitor guy was too busy in conversation to look at the screen.

Immigration
A bubbly Israeli woman asked me a few question… did I have family in Israel? Could she see my “invitation to hotel?” I explained that my trip was for pleasure and that I was alone. ”So you come for alone pleasure?” she asked. I decided it would be inappropriate to make a snide remark. She wished me a pleasant trip and I tried to get my mind out of the gutter.

Weather
Unfortunately, the weather in Israel has not been terribly cooperative. The first day was shot due to torrential squalls of rain. The “sheruot” from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem took almost five hours. The traffic was miserable and I was the last to disembark.

The second day featured a rare Jerusalem snowstorm. It was exceptionally difficult to get around. Taxis were exceptionally hard to find as well. I unfortunately limited myself to indoor locations for the second day.

The Regency Hotel, Jerusalem
The Regency was described to me as “run down,” and as a “former Hyatt now in disrepair.” I actually think its quite nice. The rooms are reasonably big, the staff are friendly, and the vast breakfast buffet is hard to beat. The Regency also features a beautiful gym with a breathtaking view (when it’s not snowing.)

The rooms are cheap (USD 125) given the level of accommodations provided. The only disadvantage is that one has to take a cab to get anywhere. This is true of a number of hotels in Jerusalem, but at least the Regency has the great view.


Safety
Israel just isn’t that scary. Sure there are people with Uzis, but at least they aren’t pointing them out the windows of police cars as is the custom in Brazil. Many shops and restaurants have security guards, metal detectors, etc. but these aren’t terribly intimidating.

On the first night, I was somewhat jetlagged and heard crashes of noise and flashes of light at night. “The Syrians and Lebanese have started sending rockets to Jerusalem.” I thought, “and they’ve made liquid fall from the sky!” It later occurred to me that I wasn’t in the midst of a war, but instead a thunderstorm.

So many people made comments about busses. But I can’t say that I was too afraid to get on a bus. It was filled with tourists, locals, and businesspeople. Of course I thought of the movie, Paradise Now (why did I ever see that?), but then I just relaxed and didn’t think much of it.

Jerusalem
Although the weather has prohibited me from seeing a number of significant points of interest, I still hit the big ones. And it’s amazing. I’m not a terribly religious person, but the Kotel took my breath way. I was praying at the Wall, but in the background I could hear church bells and “Allah Akhbar.”

The [b]Israel Museum[b] was quite incredible. A look at the Dead Sea Scrolls makes the trip so meaningful. It’s unthinkable to see prayers that I say all the time written on a piece of parchment from more than 5,000 years ago.

Of course I also visited Yad Vashem. Despite the weather, it was profoundly worthwhile visit. One walks lower and deeper through the exhibits, seeing remnants and personal belongings of six million lost lives. But the building ends with a balcony overlooking Jerusalem.

Next up… Eilat.

Bretteee

Did your flight include a First Class section? I am amused they serve prunes on a plane.

turing

Something interesting I've noticed particularly when flying out of TLV is that the security screeners seem particularly interested if you're Jewish -- but without quite asking that question. I've been asked things like "which holidays do you celebrate?" "what languages do your parents speak?", etc...

Mats

El Al does offer a small first class cabin, which looked quite nice. Tickets for first class were about three times the business class fare.

I special-ordered the prune meal (PRML.)
It was still better than the fig and foie gras "parfait" that is sometimes served on Continental.

Mats

The Scots Hotel, Tiberias
This is probably the strangest hotel I’ve ever visited. The Scots Hotel was originally a Scottish Hospital, which is now a luxury hotel. It is still owned and operated by the Church of Scotland. For this reason, it is the only hotel in Israel without a kosher kitchen.

The Scots Hotel was essentially deserted. It’s in the middle of an bustling, sort of run-down “promenade” in Tiberias. The hotel’s property is meticulously well-maintained, the staff are polite, and the breakfast was beautiful.

The Kineret is beautiful and I preferred just driving around the lake, stopping at little beaches. Next time, I think I would choose to stay out of Tiberias and enjoy the Kineret from a distance.

I visited a friend at the Ramot Guest House. It’s nowhere near as glitzy as the Scots Hotel, but it did have a nice view and was somewhat more secluded.

The Dan, Tel Aviv
If I’m ever fortunate enough to get married, I think I want to have my honeymoon at the Dan..
From an unassuming entrance on Hayarkon Street, the Dan lobby is spectacular. The staff were impeccable, and the room was one of the nicest hotel rooms I’ve ever had in my life. The view of the Mediterranean was unbeatable.

Actually, the Dan’s famous health club wasn’t as nice as the Regency in Jerusalem. Likewise, the food wasn’t as good, but the view made up for that.

The room came equipped with a box of fancy chocolates and a bottle of mineral water.

Although there are plenty of great hotels in Tel Aviv, the Dan was an excellent choice. It’s on the beach and still convenient to Dizengoff and Ben Yehuda Streets. It’s maybe a 15 or 20 minute walk to the harbor.

Tel Aviv reminded me a great deal of Rio de Janeiro. The Bauhaus style, the beach, etc. Rio has more guns and a lot less clothing.

Check-in at Ben Gurion Airport
I was dreading the notoriously elaborate security checks. I’m not a fan of pat-downs and power-tripping guards.

I came prepared with hotel receipts, names of people I met in Israel, explanations for previous trips to explain passport stamps, receipts for books I’d purchased… I needed none of that.

Fortunately, that was not the case at all. I joined the small queue of four of five people in the Business/First check-in. A friendly, young guy asked most of the same questions from the check-in at JFK. He did ask about my family names (i.e. to see if they sounded convincingly Jewish.) He also asked why I didn’t wear glasses in my passport photo. An odd question, I thought.

I was escorted to the CTX scanner and was asked to take my laptop to the secondary inspection table. This involved a woman looking at the laptop, asking if it was a gift, if it had been repaired, and then she wished me a pleasant flight. I didn’t have to turn it on, nor did she “swab it.”

Then on to El Al check in. There was nobody in line, so that was less than a minute.

Passport control had maybe two or three people in front of me. This was a matter of a smile and “Shalom” from the young woman. No questions.

Finally, there was the regular security checkpoint, which was like airport security fantasy land. There was no wait in line. No shoe, belt, or jacket removal. No swabbing, no frisking, no wanding. All of the staff were friendly, wishing everyone a good trip.

The King David Lounge, Ben Gurion Airport
I immediately showered in the new “Carmel Spa,” where one actually undergo massages and other “treatments.” The staff were all cheerful and attentive, offering me a “rug” with which to dry myself off. I gently corrected that one with the word “towel.”

Then it was time for a bit of free web surfing and some juice.

The lounge has large leather chairs with a pleasant view of the active tarmac.

4 January 2007 El Al flight 1 747-400 “Jerusalem” Seat 79H
Although boarding was a “free for all,” it was spread out over 45 minutes. There was in fact no waiting at all to board. There was no secondary screening; in fact, one doesn’t even have to present a passport to board… just the boarding card.

Hadas welcomed me aboard and took my jacket. She soon offered juice, amenity kits, etc.

After a quick takeoff, we were presented with a wine list and menu. The wines were identical to the outbound flight.


The food was again pretty lackluster. It was kind of like really good economy class on a really good day. I had the salmon, which was edible but boring. The dessert, however, was great: bountiful fresh fruit, chocolates, cake, and coffee.

The service, however, made up for the food. El Al’s young, bubbly, and attentive crew were always asking if I needed anything. They would kneel down at the side of a passenger’s seat, asking if there was anything they could bring. The environment was casual, friendly, and approachable.

After dinner, I slept for six or seven hours. Although it was “airplane sleep”—a bit fitful—I still felt refreshed. The quiet cabin of the upper deck is peaceful, and the soft seat lulled me back to sleep.

During the time that I was awake, the hot Israeli guy sitting next to me served as my inflight entertainment.

Breakfast was again Israel’s specialty and El Al’s specialty. I enjoyed an omelette, yogurt, fruit, salmon, olives, salad, warm sesame cookies, croissants, coffee… it was too much, but it was really good.

After a quick 11 hours, we parked at gate 31 at JFK Terminal 4. The crew once again offered a smiling “Shalom” and “L’hitraot.”

Although the walk was long from the gate to immigration, there was no line. My bag came off the belt within five minutes and there was also no wait to get through customs.

There was a sign saying that the “Department of Homeland Security” pledges to offer everyone a “warm welcome.” Let’s just say that they don’t really live up to their pledge. At least they just waved me through.

A cheerful woman at the connections desk took my bag for interline transfer and wished me a good trip.

Then off to the AirTrain to Terminal 3.

JFK
I decided to “risk it” and use my El Al boarding card to get through the TSA checkpoint. The friendly Puerto Rican contract employee had no problems with this. The TSA was again “snotty” at best. At least the line was short and I made it through without secondary anything. But they’re just so rude: “BELT? CELL PHONE? SHOES!” Many passengers were undergoing SSSS-screening. It makes me want to throw up.

I went to the Business Elite Lounge by Gate 23, where Susan welcomed me, asked me about my trip and my flight, and escorted me to the shower. The showers at the Terminal 3 Business Elite Lounge are nicer, but this one was fine. It woke me up and I felt better.

4 January 2007 Comair/Delta Connection flight 5063 CRJ-200 Seat 1C
After a 15-minute delay, I headed down the confusing walkway filled with RJ’s. This seemed like a recipe for disaster, particularly since nobody checked anyone’s boarding cards. It would have been very easy to get on a flight going elsewhere.

We sat on the ground for 60 minutes. There was no information from the flight or cabin crew, no obvious signs of airport congestion… just a wait. I just slept and read for a while. Nobody complained; it was clearly out of our control.

Once in flight, Melissa offered drinks and snacks and we had a smooth, quick flight. We actually had a Jetway to disembark, which meant that we didn’t have the stupid wait for gate-checked baggage to be offloaded.

Concluding Thoughts
El Al
As a friend of mine put it, “The first trip to Israel should always be on El Al.” I agree. There is nothing like the experience of flying El Al and I would happily fly them again.

The food and the seats are better elsewhere, but El Al shines in terms of service, its commitment to safety, and national pride.

Ben Gurion Airport
It’s great: new, spotless, and spacious. The staff were unerringly friendly and the security procedures were a breeze.

Hotels
The Dan Tel Aviv wins hands-down. I wish I could go back there tonight. For my next trip to Israel, I’ll certainly return to the Dan and perhaps try their other properties in Eilat or Jerusalem.

The Crown Plaza Dead Sea was a surprise hit. The room was beautiful, the view was great, and the spa was delightful. The Crown Plaza also had the best breakfast of any of the hotels I visited in Israel.

The Crown Plaza Eilat was not a winner. Although it wasn’t bad, it didn’t measure up to the other hotels in Israel.

Israel as a whole
As a friend put it, “you’re not just a tourist in Israel: you’re a witness, a pilgrim, and a relative.” It is a remarkably profound and meaningful place to visit. Despite a downturn in tourism, Israel is committed to welcoming American tourists of any faith.

I am now unhappily back in rainy Columbus, Ohio, wondering why on earth I live here voluntarily.

Thank you for your interest and I always welcome your comments.