aw

“Two Business Class seats opened up on AF 83 SFO-CDG” said the NW Worldperks agent. Those words were like music to my ears. I was elated and couldn’t believe how miraculously lucky I got at the last minute. For those who have dealt with the agony of checking award inventory continuously in the hopes of grabbing that elusive seat, you could understand my pain.

You see, my companion and I planned this trip using NW miles about 3 months ago. We tentatively booked something close to the dates we wanted because we were traveling at the end of April/beginning of May; typically the start of the busy season. Fortunately the reservations were made under the name of a Platinum member, which meant we could alter the itinerary at any time without penalty. I am a stubborn optimist and checked availability for the dates and flights that I wanted almost religiously on a daily basis. Persistence paid off two days before my original departure date. All that time I was told repeatedly that this particular AF flight looked very full by numerous agents but I was adamant and never took a “NO” for an answer. Not for one second I doubted the validity of that statement, since I knew that UA canceled its Paris nonstop some time ago and this nonstop by AF was a very coveted flight. SFO has a large and wealthy market base and it would not be problem for AF to sell those seats at premium prices. Never being the demanding type that is on your face, my ways are subtle and discreet. Earlier in my life I have been taught that a pleasant and polite disposition goes a long way. I always abide by the golden rule to treat others as I would like to be treated. I was even more appreciative of my good fortune the day I went to reissue the tickets at the NW airport counter (this was on Fri. and I left Sat. the next day) when I passed by AF and learned that the flight for Fri. has been canceled. Talk about close call! It was now imperative to get good seats together for tomorrow’s flight since it was going to be full to the brim.

“I’m sorry, monsieur but we don’t have anything together,” said the AF reservations agent in an apologetic way. “However, if you want, I can assign you 8K and 5K for now and you can go to the airport to request adjoining seat 5L which is open but restricted to airport control until day of departure. I suggest to get to the airport about 3 hours before departure when the counter opens” she continued. On the AF 744, row 5 has about 4 seats that are bassinet designated and are held for airport control until the day of departure. The configuration is 2-3-2 in J and I believe seats 5A,L and the 2 aisle ones in the middle are the ones restricted. The flight is configured with the NTC and the upper deck is Economy. Personally I think AF should operate a 3-class configuration on this route. It is one of the longest ones in its system and there should be a demand for F seats.

Being at the airport at 12:30P was not a problem, considering that on my original schedule I was supposed to leave at 6:00A on NW SFO-MSP then MSP-EWR to connect to AF EWR-CDG. As expected, there was a huge mass of humanity by the time the AF counter opened. We were the first ones to be checked in by the L’Espace Affaires agent and she happily switched my seat to 5L. She gave us an invitation to the AF lounge and wished us a good flight. Unfortunately, we did not have a chance to use it since we decided to have lunch with a friend who later dropped us at the airport. At about 1 hour before departure we tried going to the lounge but upon entering the agent said that it was closed and passengers were leaving on their way to the gate. I guess it will be the Arrival lounge in 2C at CDG then.

Before I go into the details of my report, I will post a link to the pics. This is the first time that I have used a digital camera and my postings are still a work in progress as I learn the ropes. In the past, I have always relied on my 35mm SLR and this time it was not different. Thankfully I used both cameras because after the AF meal service all my digital ones were lost due to an error that I incurred by exceeding the amount limit. The pics that you see there were scanned from regular prints. I apologize in advance for the blurry quality on some of them as I experimented with settings and controls.

Photography is a hobby for me and I started doing it about 5 years ago. I never took any classes nor had any training but I was always intrigued by the power of a picture and what it conveys. For me, photography is a vehicle for self-expression just like cooking, painting and other art forms. I show you the world using my perspective and if we are able to “connect” then I am glad that we have reached a deeper level of understanding that is beyond mere images. I am not an artist nor claim to be one, just a regular Joe sharing what I am passionate about. By the way, I’m into “food porn”. I’m fascinated by food. Perhaps this was due to my background. My father had an import business and owned restaurants in different countries. As a child I was fascinated by different cultures and the more I am exposed to them the more I realize what we have in common. In college, I wanted to be a chef and graduated with a degree in Hotel and Restaurant Management but never pursued that path for one reason or another. I enjoy cooking for family and friends and in more than one occasion someone told me that I have missed my call. I guess I’m decent because people always eat what I give them and ask for seconds. I think I’ll be happy if I have a job sampling different airlines and photographing their food. The links are as follow:



For airline meals: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/zadw22.../ph//my_photos


For sights:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/zadw22...w223/my_photos



AF 83 SFO-CDG
Classe Affaires (J) Seat 5L
B747-400 Dep.4:30P-Arriv.11:50A+

As expected, flight was very full and Business Class did not have one open seat. Two male FA’s were at the door greeting customers and directing them to their respective locations. Pre departure drinks were offered in glasses and the choices were orange juice, champagne and water. A FA took my coat after I sat down and the amenity kit with bottle of water were already placed on the seat. Hot towels were distributed while on the ground, which was bit odd.

There was plenty of space for carry-ons. Got to love the roominess of 747’s. Overall the cabin was spacious and the seats looked smart. However, when I looked up I couldn’t believe how dirty the overhead lights were. I took a picture of this and it is on the photo album link. Once the doors closed, the safety video was shown (has anyone noticed the perfect American English spoken in the video? Also, when you call AF Reservations, you are greeted with a normal voice instead of the heavily accented French one that was there before?). Take off was smooth and I was afforded a view of downtown SF during climbing as you can see from my pics album.

Once we reached cruising altitude, menus were distributed. I noticed the new design in deep yellow with a picture of a vanilla bean and slices of candied orange peels. It was titled …le gout du voyage PAR AIR FRANCE. Inside it featured a green leaf with a broccoli …le plat du jour. The menu is smaller and not as distinctive as the previous design. Personally I don’t like it because it lacks character, the logo is missing, there is an ad for AGS on the inside back cover and more French elements could have been incorporated in the design of the menu. Instead of the broccoli page featuring the plat du jour AF could have used a background of cheeses or pastries from a market display or pastry shop stand.



TRADITIONAL SERVICE

CHOICE OF HORS-D’OEUVRE
-Bloc de foie gras de canard
-Demi-Homard du Maine a la Parisienne

CHOICE OF MAIN COURSES
-Grilled tournedos of beef with Mediterranean-style vegetables, mashed potatoes with fennel and chanterelle mushrooms
-Fillet of sea bass duglere accompanied by wild rice, sugar snap peas and new carrots
-Plat du jour: Duck confit – This is a traditionally prepared thigh of duck confit, accompanied by baby vegetables and a three bean stew

OUR SPECIAL SELECTION OF CHEESE

ASSORTMENT OF DESSERTS
-Cherry clafouti, dacquoise, sherbet served with cookies, choice of fresh fruit

Espresso is served at our Bar Espace

EXPRESS SERVICE
Hors d’oeuvre of your choice, our special selection of cheese and pastry


BREAKFAST

Fruit juice, coffee, tea, hot chocolate
Fresh fruit, yogurt

Fresh Bakery selection, breakfast pastries, butter and preserves

CHOICE OF MAIN COURSES
-Crepe filled with scrambled eggs and chives accompanied by bacon, cherry tomato and potato galette
-French toast served with cinnamon and poached peach


WINE LIST

CHAMPAGNE
Mailli Grand Cru Cuvee Le Fleu 2000

WHITE BURGUNDY
Pouilly-Vinzelles “En Paradis” 2002 Louis Latour

SOUTHWESTERN RED
Cahors Chateau Lamartine Cuvee Particuliere 2002 – Alain Gayraud

RED BORDEAUX
Medoc Chateau de Saint Christoly 2003


The purser greeted each passenger and explained the features of the new NTC seats and operation of the entertainment system. He was polite, professional and very approachable. The first drink service took a long time. I looked at my watch and it was about 1 ˝ after take off with no drinks yet. For those unfamiliar with AF service, carts are rolled down the aisle during each course and breads are not warmed.

I had a tomato juice and the FA handed me a package with a swizzling stick and celery salt. The drink was accompanied by Fauchon’s Gaufrettes au Sel de Guerande. (mini wafers) which were excellent. I love any snacks from Fauchon as a matter of fact. For appetizer, I chose the Parisian lobster and as you can see from my pic, it was served with some salade russe like addition, lemon wedge and some leaves. The foie gras and duck confit were tempting, but unfortunately I had to restrain myself since I am cursed with gout. The lobster was the lesser of the two evils and it proved to be a wise choice. It was exquisite, perhaps the best dish out of the whole meal sequence. It was a nice half lobster tail with a claw that has been perfectly chilled. Simple with a lovely presentation. The sea bass was disappointing. It was overcooked. Fish was a bit dried out, vegetables were cooked to mushiness and the limp aspect of the carrots was noticeable. Deep inside I knew that the confit would have made a better choice but I couldn’t risk a gout attack surfacing again since I was already recuperating from one the previous week and was still in mild pain when I boarded this flight. I also noticed that the cheese plate was served at the same time that you requested your main dish choice. There were 3 pieces consisting of a roquefort, camembert and one mild one, perhaps beaumont. Service was efficient and drinks were refilled promptly. The dessert cart followed and I indulged in some luscious strawberries, sweet grapes, intensely flavored mango and raspberry sherbets; and a sinful dacquoise pastry. I was slightly disappointed by the Danish butter cookies since I was expecting some French ones like calissons. I guess provisions depend on country of origin in this case. Once the meal service ended, a bar was set up in the galley with a basket of fruits and an assortment of beverages.

Crew was friendly, polite and willing to engage in small conversation. I tried the NTC seat and I found my feet touching the bulkhead wall all the time. I’m 5’9”, by the way. The flat seat is a bit inclined but not too bad if you sleep on the sides. I cannot sleep on planes so I stayed awake reading or walking for the rest of the night. Pretty soon it was time to serve breakfast and I tried the French toasts but they were average. There was no syrup to go with it so it was a bit dry except for the poached peaches. The orange juice was fresh squeezed but very acidic and the La Crčme yogurt was reliably satisfying as usual. The bowl of fruit included pieces of watermelon, strawberries and pineapples but for J or F class I prefer my fruits sliced and not chopped. Our FA asked if we wanted any hot drink but forgot to offer us the basket of baked goods. Well, I guess the less carbs you consume the better.

Once we landed, FA’s made small talk to each customer to thank us for choosing AF while the plane was taxiing to the gate. A very nice touch IMHO. Alas, we did not park right at the gate and had to take one of those cylinder movers to Immigration. The formalities were quick and once outside we proceeded to the Arrivals lounge over at 2C. The agent was welcoming and I thought this small lounge was just adequate. There are a few showers/WC at the back of the lounge and each one is supplied with a small AF pouch of L’Occitane single use toiletries. The pantry was well stocked with breakfast pastries, cereals, beverages, cheeses, cookies and a bowl of hard-boiled eggs. There were 2 computer terminals offering internet connections. We then headed to the Hilton CDG and crashed for a couple of hours before heading to the city.



PARIS

The reason I booked the Hilton CDG was because I had a 7:00A flight the next day on AZ and this arrangement proved to be the most convenient. This is a great property with an open space feeling and excellent service. I felt like a welcomed guest by the attentive staff and the crowning touch was the front desk agent complimenting my French. My desire for a room with a view was met when I was assigned one facing CDG 1 with a fixed display of the AF Concorde. Right behind the hotel there is an IBIS property adjacent to the bus and RER station. The rate at the IBIS was 89 EUR and at the Hilton I paid 99 EUR (this was a non refundable advanced purchase). I bought a Paris Visite pass for 1 day between zones 1-5 for 16,75 EUR and it included unlimited access on the metro and bus lines within downtown Paris and from/to the airport. The round trip on AF buses or Roissybus from airport to city would have been about the same. On previous visits I have always used the bus to the city and this was my first time on the RER. I found it convenient and very straightforward. It’s always a joy to return to Paris, even if it is for a couple of hours as it was the case on this trip.

We got off at St. Michel/Notre Dame and had a lovely walk in the surrounding area. That’s when I took some of the pics of the café in the corner and Notre Dame. We then headed to Ile St. Louis to visit Berthillon but it was closed. Instead, we tried Amorino (47 rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile) and the creamy Italian gelato did not disappoint. I loved the pistachio, marron glace and cherry w/almonds ones. We walked around the Hotel de Ville area along rue des Archives, rue Ste.Croix de la Brettonerie and rue de Temple. It was getting late so we had a light dinner by the Centre Pompidou in a corner café serving salads and crepes. The place was busy with locals but we did not wait long for a table. Originally I wanted to go to the Belleville area for dinner and by the time we started looking for a restaurant it was about 9:45P and we were still in the Hotel de Ville vicinity. Oh well, another excuse to go back to Paris….


AZ 317 CDG-FCO
Prima Business Class – Seat 3A
A321 Dept. 07:00A – Arriv. 9:05A


Woke up at around 4:30A and the night before I made reservations with the hotel shuttle for a 5:30A drop off. We departed from 2F and there was already a big crowd waiting to check-in at the AF counter. We skipped the line and went directly to the Affaires counter. The friendly agent gave us seats 3AC and wished us a good flight. Even though we were flying Business Class, we couldn’t pre-reserve our seats and were told by AZ that all intra-European flights had this restriction.

At this ungodly hour all stores were still closed so we headed to the Air France lounge located downstairs past security at the end of the terminal. The lounge was fairly large, divided into different sections with play stations and internet terminals. Attendants were busy setting up trays of viennoiseries and croissants. Boxes of cereal were also available along with guava, apricot, kiwi juices and liquor. There was a downstairs area that was completely empty with internet terminals that nobody was aware of. It’s always great to have en entire room for oneself.

At 6:30 I headed upstairs for boarding. Two lines were available at each side of the counter. In Europe, the practice of extending courtesy boarding to Business class passengers before general boarding is seldom followed as in the US. A FA was greeting passengers on the doorway and seating was 3-3 with a moveable curtain divider. No pre-departure drinks were offered and once we reached cruising altitude, the purser rolled down the cart and started the breakfast service. The tray set up was compact consisting of a towelette, wine glass with rolled up plastic cutlery, apricot yogurt, a container with prunes and pieces of cantaloupe in light syrup, a sweet pastry that was inedible and a plate with two small sandwiches that were warm. One was a turkey with melted cheese and the other one with some sort of custard that was sweet. I had blood orange juice to wash down this meal. Service was efficient and the FA made a second round offering sandwiches from an aluminum container. Video was shown but no earphones were available. After about 2 hours we finally started landing in Rome.


ROME

There’s no other city like it in the world. It is noisy, chaotic, imperial, charming, elegant, stylish and with an intensity of its own. History is layered in every corner and the co-existence of sights left by different periods is undeniably fascinating. We arrived on May 1 (Labor day) and the airport did not look too busy. I've heard about the train service that goes directly from the airport to the city so we decided to try it. The Leonardo Express train from Fiumicino to the Termini station takes about 45 minutes, cost 9 EUR per person and one has to validate the ticket before boarding. However, during the whole ride I never saw an agent checking for tickets. Once at Termini station, we took a taxi to the hotel and the driver wanted to charge 15 EUR but after some haggling in basic Italian he agreed to 10 EUR (still pricey for the distance, I thought).


HOTEL INTERCONTINENTAL DE LA VILLE

The hotel is strategically situated on Via Sistina on top of the Spanish Steps. One couldn’t ask for a more beautifully placed location while in Rome. This was my second trip here and on a previous visit I stayed at the now Minerva Hotel by the Pantheon, another outstanding property. The staff was very welcoming and my room was available within 20 minutes after I checked in at the Ambassador desk, despite the early morning arrival. Our Ambassador agent was irreproachable in his attention and showed us to the room after he took us to the terrace for a spectacular view of the city. As you can see on the pictures, the room was well appointed but I found it to be a bit small for being a Deluxe category. However, the view from the balcony was exquisite and the service at the property was outstanding.

to be continued.....

RTW4

Thank you for the excellent report. I am always amazed seeing the pics of the food in the trans con CO first class service compared to AA service on the EWR-LAXor Ewr-SFO routes... Also, the pics of the AF food are fantastic...

aw

The day was warm and sunny providing a perfect invitation to explore the city. Apparently everybody in Rome had the same idea because the streets were congested with people everywhere. In times like this I am tempted to scream “FIRE” and send the crowds dispersing. Managing to descend the Spanish steps proved to be an exercise of patience but once you get at the bottom by the Fontana della Barcaccia and look back, you are rewarded with a panoramic view of the entire steps with the Trinita dei Monti church in the background. So I looked back anticipating a perfect shot and voila, to my surprise the church was covered in scaffolding. Should I interpret this as a sign to return for that elusive shot? If so, it beats throwing a coin in the Fontana di Trevi so I can save my spare change.

Walked down Via Condotti browsing through all the designer boutiques with their tempting displays but because today is a holiday everything is closed. Never mind shopping, the walk alone is worth it. In one corner a kid is singing and a crowd gathers to listen. Only problem is that he doesn’t sing well. Well, I guess for some people live entertainment, no matter how bad, is better than no entertainment.

Of all the ways to see Rome, walking is the best. You take the time to admire the sights, be captivated by the smells and even taste some of the food from the streets. Rome, just like Paris, can overload your senses. When you walk, there is also the element of surprise. You walk and walk through the cobblestone streets for what seems like an eternity and all of sudden, when you turn a corner; you are facing a magnificent sight. When you experience an encounter like this, your mood improves exponentially.

Via del Corso led to the Piazza Colonna where the Colonna di Marco Aurelio is located. At least the column is not in repair so I was able to take some pictures. There was a strong presence of policemen and military personnel in the piazza for some reason. Perhaps a protest on Labor Day? But then, wouldn’t people take a break from protesting since this is a holiday? On the subject of policemen, there was a police car parked at the piazza with two good looking officers on each door posing….I mean, maintaining vigilance so that everything was under control. Needless to say, this provided for quite a sight for the female and gay audience.

Moving on, we passed by the Temple of Hadrian where the columns of this former temple now form the façade of the stock exchange. Along the way we stopped by the Pantheon to admire it from the outside because again, it was closed too. This area is very beautiful at night with the restaurants surrounding the monument. Piazza Navona, another popular destination, is just a couple of steps away and we decided to take a break and have lunch at Tre Scalini. As expected, this area is very touristy and crowded, no matter when you come. Here's another surprise, the singing kid has made it here also. The service at Tre Scalini was efficient and to the point, lacking the charm that one hopes to encounter while dining in Rome. My grilled vegetable antipasto was satisfying as was the tartufo chocolate ice cream (for which this restaurant is known). However, I enjoyed the cassata ice cream even more with pieces of candied fruit and a layer of cake.

More walking was needed to burn all those dessert calories, so we headed towards the Vatican by crossing the Ponte Umberto and admiring the Palazzo di Giustizia, a monumental building that was supposed to embody the new order replacing the injustices of papal rule, but never became popular and was nickname Palazzaccio (ugly old palazzo). The stroll along the Tiber on the Lungotevere Castello was serene and comforting under the shades of the trees. We stopped by the Ponte Sant Angelo and admired the castle before entering St. Peter’s Square by Via di Conciliazione. There is no doubt that St. Peter’s is grandiose and imposing. The whole square is saturated with rich architectural details. Afterwards we decided to go back to the hotel for some rest so we took the metro to Piazza Spagna. The metro in Rome is not very useful for sightseeing since it was built with the intention of ferrying commuters from the suburbs. It has two lines (A and B). Line A has the newest cars and covers most of the major sights from the Ottaviano stop (Vatican) all the way to Cinecitta stopping at Spagna, Barberini (Via Veneto), Stazione Termini and Vittorio Emanuele among others.

More on Rome later…..

Ginger K

Great trip report, looking forward to hearing more! ^

aw

After a restful nap, we walked towards Via Veneto and strolled along this famous street. Cafes and luxury hotels populate the area with the Excelsior being the most renowned. There is also a Brioni branch nearby for the ultimate in menswear. I was surprised that it was this quiet at night since this area used to be the epicenter of Roman nightlife. Back in college one of my favorite courses was Italian Cinema and Via Veneto was a prominent feature on many films, especially Fellini’s La Dolce Vita, a satire on the lives of the rich and famous during the early 60’s. It used to be “THE” place to meet and socialize in Rome. Deep inside I envy those who were lucky enough to experience Via Veneto during its heydays (I was not even born yet).

We passed Piazza Barberini and ventured into a nice family restaurant nearby. I noticed a lot of smartly dressed locals, which is always a good sign. I ordered the Misto Vegetale as a Primi and a Penne Siciliana as Secondi. Both dishes were fresh and very satisfying. At one point I caught the owner preparing a Caprese salad and tearing some leaves from his basil pot to garnish the dish. Service was very good and at the end the owner always made it a point to come out and thank the customers by shaking their hands. This is the type of place that I come to Rome for and make my trip even more rewarding.

The following day (Tuesday) it was business as usual and there was an air or normalcy returning after a busy holiday. It was around 9:00A, a sunny day and temperature in the low 70’s. We came down from the almost empty Spanish Steps to the American Express office to exchange some money. At the Piazza Spagna one can not help noticing how handsome Romans looked (both men and women) in their tailored suits and accessories. This “sense” of style dates back from centuries and comes as no surprise from a civilization that regards pleasure and beauty highly. I would not expect less from a culture that gave us the Roman Empire and the Renaissance. In terms of clothing and style, nobody rivals the Italians or the French, although in my perception I find Roman fashion more favorable towards men and Parisian fashion towards women.

I was then on my way to Ferragamo when upon entering the manager advised me that they were still closed and encouraged me to come back in about an hour. Unfortunately I never made it back after all the sightseeing that day. We walked down Via Sistina on our way to the Palazzo del Quirinale. We stopped at the Giardine del Quirinale for a respite and it was an oasis of calm and beauty as you can see from the pictures taken on my sights album. I could have stayed there the whole day. We arrived at the Quirinale where we admired the giant Roman statues of Castor and Pollux, took some pics and proceeded to the Trevi Fountain. On our way we encountered narrow streets with small churches and picturesque buildings dotting the way. We finally arrived at the Trevi Fountain and it was being cleaned up. There was no water running. The sight was dry as a desert. Not everything is lost, I thought. Since we were in the vicinity of San Crispino, one of the best gelaterias of Rome, we ought to pay them a visit. After missing the right turn and getting back on track, we finally arrived to find a sign saying “Closed on Tuesdays”.

Part of what makes travel challenging and rewarding is the element of unpredictability. On my way to San Crispino, I stumbled upon a colorful small outdoor market selling the freshest looking produce. I saw elderly women neatly dressed going their daily routine shopping for ingredients for their meals later that day. For a moment, I felt like a local and got a glimpse into the daily lives of Romans; something that no guidebook or planning could have prepared me for. It was at that moment that I took out my camera and got a shot of the vegetables stand and that shot became one of my favorites during my time in Rome. I enlarged it to an 8x10 size and not only is its visual association to Rome so strong but also every time I look at it I am reminded that there is a rainbow at the end of a rainy day.

We then continued to the Victor Emanuel Monument, a massive marble structure commemorating the unification of Italy. It is not well loved by Romans because it is often regarded as a self important and insensitive piece of work. It is an enormous building but it affords great views of Rome from many of its different angles. The Capitol is next door and let me give a word of caution: Beware of women (young in particular) holding a wrapped baby begging for money, especially if another person accompanies them. This is a trick to rob you while you are distracted. It has been mentioned in different guidebooks and it never hurts to repeat this warning. At the bottom of the stairs (Cordonata) leading to the Capitol such woman approached me and since I couldn’t see the face of the baby I knew it was a scam. I said no and she followed me closely as I went up the stair. I always carry my wallet in the front pocket and when I felt the hand of her companion getting close to my front pocket I slapped it hard. I then screamed “No” loudly and they retreated quickly. I’m surprised there are no policemen patrolling this area because after all this is the place where the city council is located.

Aside from this unpleasant incident, the Capitol or Campidoglio is a beautiful attraction with a piazza created by Michelangelo dating from the 16th century. On one corner there is a small statue of the she wolf. On the back there is a series of stairs that lead into the Roman Forum depositing you at the Arch of Septimius Severus. Half way down the stairs there is a small platform where you can appreciate the landscape. How majestic this area would have looked in its glorious days. At the end of Via Sacra you encounter the Colosseum, the most famous Roman landmark. It is a marvel of Roman engineering founded by Emperor Vespasian (a professional soldier who became emperor in AD 69) consisting of a maze of rooms, passages and lifts inside.

For lunch, we ventured into the Testacio area and found a nice café offering organic products and hearty salads. Service was very casual and friendly and I ordered cheese cannelloni to accompany my huge salad. The bill came to about a total of 17 EUR with salad, two pasta dishes and a bruschetta appetizer. We then walked along the Tiber to Santa Maria in Cosmedin, where the famous Bocca della Verita is located on the walls of the portico. This site was made famous by the movie Roman Holiday when Gregory Peck scares Audrey Hepburn making her believe that the mouth bit his hand. There was a long line inside with tourists wanting to take a snapshot of their hands inside the mouth. To me, this is the most overrated attraction in Rome. The buses were lining out and the line was getting longer by the time we left. Afterwards, we ended our day’s tour by walking around Circo Massimo. Today this is a long grassy esplanade of what was once ancient Rome’s largest stadium. People were sitting with their dogs or walking with families and loved ones in this late afternoon. It's hard to imagine that long time ago, along these same tracks armies marched on, battles were fought and the destiny of people depended on the outcome of these conflicts. In Rome, the co-existence of the past and present are always intertwined. I guess that is what makes Rome eternal.

On to Budapest later……

TrayflowInUK

Wonderful TR, it's been too long since I last visited Roma. I think I'll go back now...

aw

The next morning we arranged to have a private car take us from the hotel to the airport. The Intercontinental offers this service to Ambassador members for 46 EUR and it is the most convenient way to travel between the airport and the city. A young, sharp looking driver in his suit was waiting for us in the Mercedes at the front entrance. Not a bad way to start the morning and at the same time providing a fitting conclusion to my Roman holiday. The ride to the airport was quick and panoramic passing through famous sights and affluent neighborhoods. One thing that captivates me is the sight of tall, slim trees throughout the city. In my mind, these silent witnesses of history are as much a Roman landmark as the most visited attractions.

The check in for my Budapest flight was smooth. Being the airline enthusiast that I am, I was excited to try MALEV for the first time. I have read positive reviews about this carrier so my expectations were high and I was not disappointed. It is ironic to find nowadays that Central and Eastern European carriers like MALEV, CSA and LOT are at the forefront of inflight service (especially J class) rivaling and even surpassing its Western counterparts when it comes to intra-European travel.


MA 401 FCO-BUD
Skyclub Class – Seat 1C
737-600 Dept.10:00A – Arriv. 11:50A


Boarding was chaotic with people lining up ready to board before announcements were made. A smiling FA was greeting passengers at the door. The cabin was configured 2x2 on row 1, then 2x3 for a couple of rows with the rest of Economy in a classic 3x3 format. Business class was from row 1-2 and there were 4 of us in the front. Once we were seated, a FA offered pre departure drinks (water or orange juice) and served them in glasses. She also inquired about our language of preference and provided newspapers and magazines in the requested language.

The captain welcomed us aboard and announcements were made in Hungarian, English and Italian. I counted 4 FA’s on this plane and service was exceptional. Once we reached cruising altitude, a promotional MALEV video was shown (without volume and no earphones were offered), the purser offered hot towels and she promptly started the lunch service. Linens were set and trays were hand delivered from the galley consisting of a cold chicken appetizer with some strips of cheese, pieces of fruit and cherries; a main dish of roast turkey with potato croquettes, a couple of grapes on a white sauce, two slices of orange and a cherry; a pastry dessert with some custard/chocolate layers and chocolate icing and a piece of chocolate w/cherry inside. Wines were offered but I opted for a glass of apricot juice to go with my meal. The content of the meal was generous for a 1 hour 50 mins. flight. Our FA was on top of things offering refills and making water runs constantly. After the meal, the purser inquired whether we wanted coffee or tea. At one point, when I came back from the WC, I was surprised to find my empty glass of water refilled. The English skill of this crew was competent and the attitude was excellent. Warm smiles were plentiful and one really felt like a guest in someone’s house. Even FA’s that came from the back were solicitous stopping by to inquire if everything was all right. In the galley I asked one of the FA’s if they had any souvenir for kids like playing cards or wings, he apologized for not having those and offered me some inflatable planes instead. When the purser overheard that, she came by my seat with some stickers and inquired if I wanted some. The difference between good and excellent service is whether one’s expectations were simply met or surprisingly surpassed. There is no question that this crew proved to be the latter.


BUDAPEST

Descending into Ferihegy airport provided me some very interesting glimpses into this city. From my window seat, I saw an island surrounded by the Danube, a cemetery where a procession was taking place and a complex of monotonous socialist styled apartment buildings. I cherish green spaces and pockets of these could be seen spread throughout the city. I had the feeling that I was going to like it here and as it turned out Budapest is now among my top favorites in Europe. We arranged for an airport pick up from the Intercontinental (35 EUR) and our driver was waiting for us after we exited from Immigration and Customs.

The ride to the hotel took about 20 minutes passing through a lush landscape of trees and fields. Eventually we encountered more buildings signaling our proximity to the city. Our friendly driver was very informative pointing major sights like the Museum of Applied Arts and the Royal Palace along the way. It is always nice to be the recipient of such enthusiastic welcome whenever one arrives at a new city for the first time. If anything, it makes for a memorable impression and sets a good introductory tone.


INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL

The hotel is a modern building situated next to the Chain Bridge at the southern end of Roosevelt Tér (Square). We checked in at the Ambassador desk and the agent advised us that we were upgraded to a Club room and could either check-in with her or at the Club floor. We chose to do it at the Club floor since we wanted to check the amenities there.

The Club is located on the 9th floor and it had a beautiful view of the Royal Palace and the Danube. There are 2 internet terminals, a living room area with a large sofa and an adjacent dining room with a self service bar and afternoon snacks. We checked in at around 1:00P and there were some savory puff pastries, fruits and cakes on the stand. Late in the afternoon at around 4:00P the selections were more substantial consisting of steak tartar appetizers, Asian mini spring rolls, mussels au gratin, vegetable crudités, cheese samplers and other tidbits. The agent was very welcoming and gave us a splendid room with an amazing view of the Royal Palace as you can see from my pictures. The room was large with a sofa area and the bathroom had both a shower stand and a separate bath tub.

The weather was a bit colder than Rome so I put on a jacket and went out to explore the Buda side. Budapest consists of two sides separated by the Danube. Buda is where the old city and Royal Palace are located on the hills, and Pest is the modern side where the businesses are located. The Chain Bridge is a beautiful Neo-classical structure that extends for 380m or 1,250 ft and is supported by two towers. At night this structure is superbly lit and becomes one of the most beautiful sights of the city. Once on the Buda side, I had to take the funicular from Clark Adam Tér to the top of Castle Hill. The ride is a short one but is in itself an attraction. It has 4 compartments and on your way up or down you are afforded a panoramic view of Pest through its windows. Once at the top you are treated to more magnificent views of the city.

The Castle District is a Unesco Heritage Site with magnificent buildings like the Royal Palace, National Gallery, Matyás Church and Fishermen’s Bastion to name a few. It is a compact area that can be easily covered in half a day. It’s easy to loose track of time around here admiring the sights and colorful buildings. At the end of WWII, this district has been almost destroyed and the Royal Palace was burnt to the ground. Thankfully it was faithfully reconstructed so that its glorious splendor can be enjoyed by all once again. We made our way back to the hotel for some rest and get ready for a night with friends. A bottle of water, basket of fruits and some chocolates were already placed on the table as Ambassador gifts.

One of the reasons for coming to Budapest was to see two dear friends (I’ll refer them by their nicknames Empanada and Matzo Ball). They used to live in NY but moved to Budapest a couple of months ago. Both of them are amazingly talented and I will always be grateful for their generous hospitality. That night, we took a tram to a local restaurant where I had my first taste of Hungarian food. The jókai bableves (thick bean soup with smoked gammon, sausage and small dumplings), sajt (breaded cheese), hortobágyi palacsinta (pancake or crepe in meat sauce), saláta (mixed salad with mayo), spaghetti (with a touch of sweet paprika) and potato dishes were tasty, satisfying and hearty. One of the greatest dangers a visitor encounters when visiting Budapest is the rich cuisine that tends to be heavily meat based, with a special warning for the desserts, an artery clogging addiction. Afterwards a good 20 minutes walk to the hotel is what the doctor prescribed after such an indulgent meal. We felt safe walking at 11:00P and saw some people doing the same. We stopped by the Parliament to admire its rich architecture and walked along Széchenyi Rakpart along the Danube for some spectacular lit sights of St. Anne’s Church, the Royal Palace and the Chain Bridge. I was now succumbing to the charms of Budapest even more. Unlike Paris, which can seduce you at first sight, Budapest grows on you slowly as you get to know it deeper and start peeling its layers.

The following morning we had the buffet breakfast at the Intercontinental restaurant downstairs. There was an ample selection of breads, meats, and even Japanese breakfast items. Typical Hungarian items like fried cheese and pork cracklings were also provided. We walked along the embankment and took pictures of the Royal Palace across the river and the famous Little Princess sculpture by László Marton. We then passed by a side street where there were some ads that caught my attention and ended up in Vorosmarty Tér, where there was a marble monument dedicated to the poet Mihály Vorosmarty and Gerbeaud patisserie was located. Budapest's most famous pastry shop was established in the 19th century and has a beautifully decorated Secession interior along with exquisitely displayed pastries that are a work of art. During midday, Gerbeaud has an ice cream stand outside tempting the passerby. Apricot seems to be a popular flavor here, finding its way in chocolates, ice cream, dessert and juices.

Váci Utca (Street) starts from here and this is a pedestrian street lined with boutiques, offices and eateries. We then ventured into the Central Market Hall, a busy market that is also a tourist attraction. It is impeccably clean with the first floor dedicated to meat and produce stands and the second floor to souvenirs, craftworks and ready to eat establishments. It is mind blowing to see the many different types of paprika are available here. Later in the evening we rested at Danubius kút, a park with some interesting works and strolled along Andrássy Ut, an exclusive and elegant boulevard flanked by trees and lined with government offices, fine restaurants, expensive shops and boutiques. The Opera house is also here along with the former headquarters of the ÁVO (Hungarian Communist Secret Police) at No 60. Nowadays this building is known as the House of Terror, a museum depicting the repressive brutality of the Nazi and Soviet regimes. Liszt Ferenc Tér intersects Andrássy and this area is a very busy spot with lots of upscale bars and restaurants. You see trendy people dressed in the latest styles, businessmen, models, artists and affluent visitors congregating here at night. People watching is a past time here, especially at the outdoors tables. Here in Budapest, service in restaurants can be painfully slow compared to Western standards. I guess that is why people watching is such a popular hobby while waiting for your meal and it helps that Hungarians are very handsome people. Restaurants were full and we ate at a place called Pizza Romana. Our pizzas arrived in about 45 minutes if you can believe that. Unfortunately I did not get to fully enjoy my meal since I was falling asleep. The pizza was not bad but I did not remember much else.

After a much needed good night sleep, I awoke early and got ready for a visit to St. Stephen’s Basilica, one of the most photographed sights in Budapest. The Basilica has the same height as the Parliament containing the mummified forearm of St. Stephen and on Aug. 20th, the Saint’s day, the Basilica’s priests carry the hand out past large crowds for viewing. One of my most memorable experiences in Budapest was encountering so many beautiful building with intricate details. The city is rich in neo-classical and secession style architecture and the Hungarian national style was influenced by this latter style emphasizing motifs from Hungarian architecture and folk art.

For lunch, I headed to Menza, a popular restaurant on Liszt Ferenc Tér specializing in Hungarian food with a modern twist. The interior is modern and stylishly decorated. I had a dark cherry juice and ordered veal stew with dumpling accompanied by pickled beets. The meat was tender surrounded by a tasty sauce made more enjoyable by the dumplings soaking it. The beets provided just the right "kick". This was a very satisfying meal with friendly service.

Budapest proved to be a great surprise. I love this city and wished I could have stayed longer to see more of it. For such a beautiful city so rich in history it seems very underrated and affordable. However, common caution needs to be exercised as in everywhere else. Unfortunately some people perceive visitors as cash cows and will take advantage of you. I’ve heard that taxis from the airport are to be avoided since they are controlled by the mafia and will ask for an exorbitant amount for the ride. Also, male travelers should be suspicious of being approached by friendly females. Overall Hungarians are very hospitable, willing to go the extra mile to assist visitors and possessing a resilient quality that is admirable. This is a land that has been conquered many times and its history is marked by periods of brutal violence, as in the 1956 National Uprising against Soviet occupation. On June 1, 2004, Hungary joined the EU. With economic prosperity, parts of the population are struggling harder to make ends meet. However, one can also notice a certain vitality in the air. As time passes, I hope more people discover this country and learn about its cultural wealth and beauty. As for me, I know I will be back for more. I have become hopelessly addicted.


A short stopover in FRA and back home to SFO....

TrayflowInUK

The Malév 737 was configured 2-3 even in Economy?

Carfield

Thank you for a wonderful report!

The travel details are wonderful and Budapest definitely sounds like a cool city to visit.

Malev sounds excellent and I agree that most of Central/Eastern European airlines seem to retain decent service up front, while other Western European airlines seem to follow their US leads in finding ways to cut corners and reduce the food offerings.

can't wait to read the rest of your return report!

Thanks,
Carfield

aw

Actually, no. My apologies for the misleading information, it was 2:00A when I finished typing this. Some seats in the back of the curtain divider were configured 2x3 but most of Economy is the standard 3x3.

Here's a map to give you an idea:

http://www.malev.hu/BP/ENG/I_PLANESP...045-59MUQD.asp

aw

Once again we requested the hotel to airport transfer through the Intercontinental. Unlike Rome, where private cars are used, the ones in Budapest display a taxi sign on top. We left at 4:00P and traffic was starting to build up on some parts of the road. The ride was uneventful except for the moment that we approached the airport. Upon seeing a police car, the driver gestured us to buckle up (his English was extremely limited) and let out a sigh of relief once the car passed us.

We were dropped at Ferihegy 2, the terminal used by Malev. Charter and LCC carriers use Ferihegy 1 and these two terminals are not adjacent to each other, so don’t even attempt to walk if you find yourself in the wrong one. Check in at the Business counter was friendly and efficient. The agent just asked if we had any baggage to check and did not even bother to look at our carry ons. There was a line for passport control but it moved quickly. Once inside, we proceeded to the Duna Lounge where the friendly ladies checked us in. The lounge was rather small and as expected, quite full. The self service counter had some savory mini scones, drinks, packaged snacks and small Túro Rudis (a popular Hungarian treat made out of sweetened compressed farm cheese dipped in chocolate) in the refrigerator. Don’t be put off by the description, it is actually very good and it even has a loyal international following. After a couple of minutes I decided to leave and explore the Sky Club lounge at the other side. This lounge seemed slightly bigger and better appointed. Snacks were about the same. Soon it was time to go to the gate and it was a chaotic scene. As usual, Business Class passengers did not get priority boarding so we had to join the mob scene. The agent scanning was friendly wishing everybody a nice flight. We went down some stairs and then took a bus to the airplane. Everybody rushed to get to the stairs going up to the plane. I hate boarding like this. This just aggravates what is already an annoying experience.


MA 522 BUD-FRA
Skyclub Class – Seat 2E
737-600 Dept. 5:50P – Arriv. 7:35P

As it happened on the previous flight, Business Class consisted of the first 2 rows. I noticed that I was assigned a middle seat and tried to change this at the lounge. Unfortunately the ladies there had trouble accessing the system and advised me to do it at the gate. At the gate, it was a nightmare getting to the front (agents were closing the previous Venice flight) and I did not want to hold the line with the single agent taking the boarding passes when the FRA flight was being called, so I decided to chance it. As it turned out, there was no one in the aisle seat next to me so I moved.

The purser greeted passengers at the entrance and another FA started offering pre-departure drinks and publications. Once airborne, the meal service started with the linens placed on the tray tables followed by a light meal. The main dish was a plate of cold cuts (rolled up ham with cream cheese, slices of salami, cheese and carrots on top of rice salad that tasted undercooked), a bowl of fresh fruit (kiwi, orange and grapes sprinkled with grated coconut) and a piece of chocolate cherry. Warm breads were offered from a basket and the service was excellent with lots of smiles. I was disappointed with this meal in terms of quantity and quality. This was MA’s last flight of the day to FRA and I was expecting a dinner service. Afterwards the purser made her rounds offering coffee or tea and was on top of things. She was outstanding as I saw her leaving the galley during her dinner break to assist customers attentively.

We arrived at Terminal 2 in FRA and were held waiting by the gate once inside the terminal because someone forgot to open the door that would connect us to Immigration in the secured area. We were told to go down the stairs to another entrance, only to be rerouted upstairs again. This drama played out for about 15 minutes until someone finally showed up and was met by angry stares. After this fiasco, we made our way to Terminal 1 where we caught the S-Bahn to the Hauptbahnhof (Central Station). The S8 or S9 line runs about every 15 min. from the airport to the city and takes about 10 minutes. Frankfurt is a major transportation hub and it is very easy and convenient to go anywhere from here.

I booked the Excelsior Hotel for convenience and value. The property is next to the station and cost me 67 EUR a night for a twin room. The rate includes an excellent buffet breakfast and free use of internet. It is a basic business hotel but be warned that it does not have air conditioner so you might want to think twice before booking it in the summer. After grabbing a bite to eat at the station I went straight to bed. The next morning, we headed to the Romemberg, Frankfurt’s old central area with restored 14th and 15th century buildings. It was early Saturday morning so everything was closed. FRA is a modern city with impressive skyscrapers and a great place for art seekers. Few cities can rival such a rich concentration of museums. We took the S-bahn to the airport to catch our Continental flight back home. We arrived about 1 ˝ hour before departure at the CO counter in Terminal 2. The nice agent issued our boarding passes quickly and directed us to use the DL lounge. The lounge was spacious and there was a set up with breakfast breads, cereals, yogurt and some fruits.


CO 51 FRA-EWR
BusinessFirst – Seat 4L
B764 Dept. 11:20A – Arriv. 2:05P

Leaving the DL lounge one had to go through a second security screening where every single passenger was padded down before being allowed to proceed to the gate. A FA welcomed us aboard as we entered. The J cabin was pretty full and was configured 2x1x2. FA’s were busy serving pre departure drinks and stowing coats. In the meantime, her colleague offered us amenity kits and menus. Moments later, she asked for our choice of beverage, salad dressing and main dish. The purser welcomed us onboard and introduced herself. She inquired if this was our first time flying CO BusinessFirst and then explained that during meal service, we were welcome to choose the appetizer and desserts from a cart but the salad and main entrees were hand delivered and that is why they needed to determine our preferences beforehand. She then continued to give us an overview of how the entertainment system worked. The FA’s prepared the cabin for departure once the captain made the announcement. Personally I don’t like distribution of amenity kits and menus during pre departure. Having FA’s go up and down the aisles while passengers are still boarding is chaotic and make the service look rushed.

After take off, the captain welcomed us aboard and gave us more details about our flight. Reciting security reasons, he asked passengers not to congregate in the galleys, avoid making a line while waiting for the toilet or disturb crewmembers during their breaks. This is the first time during all my travel years that I have heard such stern requests. I even overheard the purser saying, “I can’t believe he said that” to another FA in the galley on my way to the WC.

Here’s the menu transcript:

TO BEGIN
-Warm roasted nuts served with your preferred cocktail or beverage

APPETIZER CART
-Smoked salmon and cheese tart, accompanied by creamy herb sauce
-Smoked duck with fig

SALAD
-Romaine lettuce with red onion strips, Kalamata olives, sliced tomato and buffalo mozzarella cheese. Offered with balsamic vinaigrette or yogurt herb dressing

Freshly baked bread and assorted rolls with butter

EXECUTIVE MEAL OPTION
-Appetizer salad, Entrée and Chocolate (not worded like these)

MAIN COURSES
-The Chef’s Selection: Rack of lamb with roasted garlic and herb jus, accompanied by mashed potatoes. Medley of vegetables including carrots, parsnips and turnips

-Herbed Breast of Chicken Provencale. Enhanced by jus de roti, offered on a bed of white wine risotto. Broccoli florets and oven roasted carrots. Sautéed leek and champignon mushrooms.

-Shrimp Scampi. Served over saffron risotto with carrots, red onion, yellow squash, zucchini and red bell pepper.

-Pasta Bowl. Tortellini filled with cheese, complemented by Boscaiola sauce, a sauce prepared with mushrooms. Freshly grated Parmesan cheese will be offered with your pasta. Buttered green beans are available upon request to accompany any entrée.

FRUIT AND CHEESE
-Select European cheeses accompanied by fresh seasonal fruit, assorted gourmet crackers and rolls, served with Port wine.

DESSERT CART
-Featuring vanilla ice cream offered with your choice of toppings or warm fruit cobbler with vanilla ice cream.

Fresh Brew gourmet roasted regular and decaffeinated coffee made exclusively for CO. Tea with your choice of milk or lemon.

SKYSNACK
-A selection of light snacks and refreshments will be available.

REFRESHMENT
Will be offered prior to arrival
-Fresh seasonal fruit
-Breast of chicken served warm on a focaccia roll with sautéed bell peppers and onions, offered with herb mayonnaise dipping sauce.



FA’s were attentive offering magazines and newspapers from a cart, followed by hot towels. Then linens were laid down signaling the start of the meal service. From another cart, a FA placed your set of utensils, glass of water, salt/pepper shakers and bread plate with a ramekin of butter on your tray table. I had a tomato juice to accompany the warm nuts. The appetizer cart consisted of trays of smoked duck with fixings and smoked salmon tart. A stack of plates was in the middle between these two choices. A pitcher of water and basket of bread were placed at the bottom. I tried both appetizers and liked the salmon tart better. The smoked duck was served in thin slices with asparagus tips, sun dried tomato and a tiny piece of dried fig. The salmon tart had an aspic like consistency with alternating layers of cream cheese and smoked salmon topped by a piece of red pepper and some caviar. The salad was fresh with the right amount of dressing. The rack of lamb was delicious with its tender meat. The mashed potatoes were the perfect accompaniment to soak up the flavorful sauce. I liked the side vegetables served in a separate container. The cheese cart with an assortment of fruits and cheeses followed this. I asked for a sampler and the FA gracefully acknowledged my request by offering a pretty full plate. There was a nice selection from the fruit tray and I had some grapes, slices of pineapple, cantaloupe, a strawberry and a pear ball. I ordered a glass of port to wash this down. Afterwards I chose the peach cobbler from the dessert cart. To me, it tasted a bit raw and undercooked so I just finished the ice cream. Once the meal service was over, I saw FA’s distributing water bottles. However, the first 4 rows in the right side failed to receive the bottles. I did not make a big deal out of it because I was tired and decided to take a nap.

When I woke up I headed to the toilet by the second galley and when I came out I asked a FA there for some bottles of water. She replied that CO did not have these and offered to pour two glasses for me in plastic cups. When she saw me walking back to the J cabin, she asked me to come back and apologized saying that she thought that I came from Y. She offered to bring me the water in glasses but I told her that it was fine and took the plastic cups to my seat. Later she passed by my seat and was commenting to another FA that there were some rows that did not get bottles of water. She then placed two small ones by my seat and apologized saying that they were hidden in another container. I thanked her for trying to rectify this situation.

Halfway through the flight FA’s began to offer freshly baked chocolate cookies with milk. About 1 hour before arrival the second meal began. The warm chicken sandwich was tasty and the fruits were adequate but not ripe enough lacking in sweetness. The chocolates provided the perfect ending to this meal. The purser thanked each passenger in the front for choosing CO. However, there was an incident towards the end of this flight that was somewhat disturbing. I saw a FA storm out of the front galley saying out loud “This is it, I am sick of working like a slave”. I’m sure almost every passenger in J must have heard that. Between the captain’s condescending comments at the beginning of the trip and this FA’s angry remarks at the end, I can say that this proved to be one of the least professional flights that I have experienced. On a positive note, CO’s catering in J is solid and IMHO it is the best among American carriers providing generous portions with high quality items. The presentation of the appetizer, cheese/fruit and dessert courses in carts with the ability to choose and customize your order is a differentiating factor flying CO Business class and sets it apart from its U.S. competitors.

Here’s the link to the meal pictures:

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/zadw22.../ph//my_photos


Arrival into EWR was uneventful. Going through Immigration was speedy but once in Customs there was a long line with passengers from other flights trying to exit. Luckily the line moved quickly and once out we headed to the President’s Club to relax.

Our connecting flight departed from gate C 137 so we used the club closest to it. As soon as I entered the club I put my name down for a shower because there was a waiting list already. Twenty minutes later I was paged and was shown to a utilitarian bathroom. Soap and shampoo were dispensed from a container attached to the shower wall and clean towels were provided. Not as fancy as other airlines’ shower rooms but it did the job. There is nothing like a warm, refreshing shower to make you wholesome again. The club was packed and there was a child screaming his lungs out annoying everyone around him with female members giving the most condemning stares.

Soon it was time to go to the gate for the last segment of this trip. The gate agent did not look very busy and from the number of passengers around, this was not going to be such a full flight.


CO 348 EWR – SFO
First Class – Seat 2B
757-300 Dept. 5:55P Arriv. 9:17P


First Class was about half full with about 12 passengers and the aircraft was the normal domestic configuration with leather seats and not the intl one that I had hoped for. Boarding started with First Class passengers (how refreshing and appreciated) and there was a FA standing by the door greeting customers. Pre departure drinks were offered and coats were taken. Once I heard the door close I moved to an empty row to stretch and pretty soon we were ready for take off.

Servicewise there was nothing exceptional about this crew. The two FA’s working the front cabin were robotic and indifferent. They did what was required and nothing else. Hot towels were passed but linens were not placed. During the meal service the breadbasket was passed only once and the FA did not mutter one single word, she just presented the basket to you and if you wanted a roll you just helped yourself with your hands. At least they made the effort to hand out the menu. Here’s the transcript:

TO BEGIN
-Warm roasted nuts served with your preferred cocktail or beverage

APPETIZER
-Lump crabmeat topped with shrimp, accompanied by cocktail sauce

SALAD
-Boston lettuce and romaine hearts with Roma tomatoes, English cucumbers, orange, chopped walnuts and a Kalamata olive. Offered with your choice of Cabernet Sauvignon vinaigrette or Parmesan peppercorn dressing.

Freshly baked sourdough bread and assorted rolls with butter.

MAIN COURSES
-Grilled Steak. Sterling Silver New York strip steak with a pepper rub, complemented by Port wine sauce. Sliced, oven roasted red and sweet potatoes with herbs. Fine green beans, turned carrots and pearl onions.

-Breast of Duck. Roasted breast of duck accented by balsamic cherry sauce, offered with roasted garlic mashed potatoes and sautéed baby spinach. Medley of vegetables including yellow sunburst squash, baby bok choy, corn and carrots.

-Seared Salmon. Complemented by shellfish sauce, served over a mix of rice, orzo and lentils with carrots, onion and roasted red tomato, topped with grilled green asparagus and cherry tomatoes.

-Pasta Bowl. Gourmet pasta enhanced by puttanesca sauce with grilled red bell pepper, artichoke hearts and Kalamata olives. Freshly grated Parmesan cheese will be offered with your pasta.

DESSERT
-Vanilla ice cream offered with your choice of toppings


The appetizer was good but it was more like shrimp topped with crabmeat and not the other way around. The sweetness of the crab was evident and perfectly complemented by the cocktail sauce. I find shrimp and smoked salmon (as much as I love it) to be very common appetizers and when I travel I look forward to sampling more unusual choices. I like creamy dressings and the salad with Parmesan dressing accompanied by a warm wheat roll was satisfying. I got the last duck dish and it was excellent. The two breasts were meaty and tender, the cherry balsamic sauce had the right sour touch without being overpowering and the garlic mashed potatoes were perfect with the sauce. I would not hesitate to order this dish again. To end this meal, I asked the FA for a sundae with whipped cream, cherry and a small bottle of Kahlua to pour on top.

After the meal I felt asleep and when I woke up our two senior FA’s disappeared leaving the young one on probation (I overheard her saying this to the crew during boarding) in charge of the F cabin and the only one making announcements throughout the flight. I did not see any water runs or beverage service throughout the entire flight after the meal service, a sign of a lazy crew. The captain announced our approach to SFO and the belt sign was turned on. Landing was smooth and upon disembarking through 2L our two F/C crew just stood by the door without saying a word. I noticed that none of the F passengers said anything to them while exiting either.

Although my last two CO trips were disappointing in terms of service, I enjoyed doing this trip sampling a variety of different carriers and visiting all these great cities. Paris and Rome were as enchanting as usual. After all, how many of us yearn to go back after our first visits there, let alone after each subsequent trip? Budapest gave me the opportunity to rekindle old friendships and discover a new city at the same time. Seeing FRA’s old town early in the morning before my departure afforded me a new way to see the city in a peaceful and uncrowded way. Travel is an enriching experience that I love sharing with others. Thank you for taking the time to read this long report. To those who dropped a word of praise, I am grateful for your appreciation. It was a pleasure indeed.

oopsz

Fried cheese? For breakfast?!?

I have to visit budapest

ylwae

Nice report on Budapest--a great city to visit and one I hope to go back to.

There is (or was) a flat-fee taxi service from the airport to the city center. This was a couple of years ago, but I remember it being about EUR 25. No hassle when I got to my hotel. Unfortunately, the same service didn't seem to be offered in the opposite direction, so the price was higher (but in line with what the hotel concierge told me to expect).

azj

Very nice report... I too have returned from Budapest (and Paris) recently and agree Budapest is an amazing city. Initially I was a bit put off by the stoic nature of the people and the lack of smiles. But as my time in Budapest past I grew to understand why they're like that and really like the city. Paris is still my favorite city in Europe and never fails me. However Budapest is very nice in its own way. I love the fact that of all my travels in Europe, no two cities are alike.

I also flew AF ORD-CDG-BUD in Y and was very much satisfied. As an airline employee traveling on VERY reduced rates the AF personnel bent over backwards to make sure I was well taken care of. On return I flew Malev to Paris and was in economy and was treated very well. The check in agent put me in a business class seat, in the economy section. Their configuration is, IMO, making the best of that goofy sliding divider. The return from CDG to ORD was a nice cap to my holiday with a seat in affaires... and the new travel concept seat as well. Service was nice and the best lamb I've ever had (sorry mom). I think the new seat is a bit less comfy that the NWA WBC seat, but who's complaining?

AZJ