South America aboard Con-chee-nen-TAL Airlines
Apr 25, 2006, 7:35 pm
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Arizona, USA
Posts: 2,403
South America aboard Con-chee-nen-TAL Airlines
Introduction
There is something particularly magical about saying, “I’m going to Rio de Janeiro.” I had fantasies about showing up at the airport early: “Pardon me, where is the flight to Rio? Rio de Janeiro? Is it this way? The flight to Rio, which I am on?” Call it schadenfreude, but I sorted of wanted to chat with other passengers. “Where are you headed? Cedar Rapids? That sounds nice. I’m going to Rio."
The story was that my folks were headed to Rio and Buenos Aires. My stepmother is actually from Rio and my father’s father came from Argentina. Although I had been to Brazil previously, I had never been to Rio. I was, of course, eager to go back to Buenos Aires.
Continental was offering promotional fares under $1,000 for flights to South America, so how could I turn them down? I used additional miles and Continental’s extortionate $800 fee to upgrade to BusinessFirst. To be fair, $1,800 and some miles isn’t so bad for an open-jaw Business Class ticket to South America.
6 April 2006
Continental 552
CMH-EWR
737-500
Check in
The night before the trip, I received an email saying, “Check in online for your flight to Rio de Janeiro.” This was—of course—a big lie. Since a visa is required to travel to Brazil, online check-in is not available. I did go ahead and verify my seat selection but could not print any useful documents for the airport.
I packed up my bags during my lunch hour, saw a handful of afternoon patients, and then had a friend drive me to the airport.
There was one person ahead of me in the line. I used the nifty passport scanner at the kiosk. A friendly agent, Melissa, verified my visa, and I finished the check-in process. There was a 50 minute delay, but I had a long layover at Newark; I wasn’t really complaining.
The first leg of my journey was to be the only segment in economy class. I overheard an agent at check-in advise another passenger that CMH-EWR on Thursday afternoons is invariably full in first class. He said, “you have to be on a super-expensive business class ticket.” I didn’t hang out waiting for my upgrade to clear; the flight is less than an hour.
TSA
It was the usual embarrassing display of American paranoia was in full force. The TSA agents were talking loudly to each other about their favorite wine coolers. Absolutely mandatory shoe removal was in force for everyone. There was a lot of yelling, as is customary at CMH. “You’ve got ONE CHANCE to get through,” barked the screener at the metal detector. I made it through unscathed, but irritated. I did not, however, see anyone getting frisked or wanded.
The gate
I amused myself by people-watching. I was connected via instant messenger to one of my friends, so I offered a play-by-play. I especially liked a woman on her cell phone, essentially saying to everyone, “I am THE MOST IMPORTANT PERON THIS WHOLE FLIGHT.” I took great pleasure in watching her take her seat in economy. If only I could have sat next to her to talk about where I was headed (ooh, I do have an evil streak.)
The flight
This was a completely full flight. Interestingly enough, they permitted passengers with international connections to board after elites. I have no idea why that courtesy was extended.
I felt exceptionally uncomfortable in the 737-500, probably because it was so full. I sat next to some newlyweds who had the remains of their wedding cake with them. They spent a lot of time talking about their debt.
Newark
Wow. So much has changed. Terminal C looked great! Flights to everywhere in the world, clean, bright lighting, friendly staff in red coats… I was impressed.
I proceeded to the President’s Club near gate 103 for a shower. I was unimpressed. The club was jammed with people and didn’t seem particularly inviting. The shower was okay, but—unlike Delta, Air France, and others—Continental just provides a generic soap and shampoo dispenser. No cute cosmetic toys and rather weak towels.
After cleaning up, I met my dad’s flight from Cleveland. The two of us went to the OTHER President’s Club, by gate 74. It is showerless but much nicer and much less crowded. There were three bubbly women at the reception desk. They proceeded to type a bunch of stuff into their computers for no obvious reason, but then bid us a good trip. We grabbed a drink and toasted to our onward journey. My stepmother was already in Rio, so it would just be the two of us.
6 April 2006
Continental 31
EWR-GRU
767-200ER
Boarding
“Should we ‘be elitist?” asked my father as we approached gate 102. I nodded. We marched past the crowds of economy class passengers and stepped on the blue carpet. “Elite? Business Class?” asked the agent. We nodded, he opened the stanchions and sent us on board.
An attractive Brazilian flight attendant welcomed us on board. My dad commented at how beautiful she looked, how well her uniform fit, and so on. Her national origin was abundantly clear.
The purser, David Hamkin, proceeded to each pair of seats, introducing himself and the BusinessFirst crew. David advised us that he would have a position in economy, but we should not be afraid to ask for him. He then introduced Susan and Suze, the crew who would serve us. We were impressed. I have certainly had pursers introduce themselves, but I’ve never had them introduce the rest of the crew.
We made an expeditious departure from Newark due to the late evening departure. With a short taxi, we were on our way to Săo Paulo by way of Bermuda, the Eastern Caribbean, and the Northeast of Brazil.
The captain made a welcome speech, including nonsense about “congregating in the aisles,” about how first class passengers must not enter the galley, and other silliness.
There was a lengthy delay before starting the inflight service. A glance at the Airshow indicated why: we were circling. The captain announced that we had encountered flap problems that had since resolved and that we should not worry.
My father and I had both consulted the menu on continental.com prior to our trip and noted that the chicken looked good. My father commented that it would be silly to order steak—we were going to South America!
Suze and Susan got to work, bringing us warm nuts, lukewarm bread, Campari, then a lifeless salad. The main course looked beautiful, except that it was ICE COLD.
Susan apologized and brought our plates back to the galley. To my surprise, she was able to put the whole plates back in the oven (I thought that the ovens could only accommodate the little foil containers.) After reheating, the chicken was excellent—with a spicy sauce, a large, tender piece of chicken, and decent rice.
My dad liked the cheese plate, but I was unimpressed. It looked too pre-packaged. He had a sundae and I opted for blueberry cobbler. I should have chosen the sundae; the cobbler tasted like something from the hospital cafeteria but warmed-up. And I—hate to brag about such things—but I am a connoisseur of hospital cafeteria food.
Susan and Suze were not equals. Suze showed remarkable style and warmth. She took great care with each element of the service. Although Susan was by no means inept or unfriendly, she was more or less functional. She also made the typical unpolished move of filling the wine glasses to the very top.
My dad and I both watched Syriana and both agreed that we couldn’t follow it. Oh well. We both promptly passed-out.
After a surprisingly comfortable rest, I awoke about two hours prior to arrival. Suze came by with piping hot croissants and very cold fruit. I ordered a cappuccino, which was apparently made of jet fuel and pencil shavings.
My dad and I amused ourselves with the Brazilian Customs and Immigration video. The woman in the video is presumably a customs official, but she is totally showing her thigh during the video.
7 April 2006
Continental 93
GRU-GIG
767-400
We made an on-time arrival at Săo Paulo/Guarulhos. This required a little loop to pass through transit security. Unlike the USA, this was a quick and painless trip through the metal detector. My dad and I took a little walk around the terminal and prepared for our connecting flight.
“Where are the podiums?” I asked my dad. I was looking for the typical security interview, frisking, etc. that takes place prior to the departure of an overseas flight operated by a US carrier. Sure enough, none of the nearby flights to the USA had this setup. To my chagrin, we began boarding. About halfway down the Jetway, a beautiful Brazilian woman greeted my in Portuguese and English, “Your carry-on luggage, it has been with you, yes?” That was it. They appeared set up with wands, etc., but they weren’t using them.
Once on board, my dad greeted two flight attendants he knew from previously flights to Rio. One of them was Nelson; I can’t remember the other one. My dad told me that he had flown with them “for years.” The crew all seemed to be in a good mood for the quick flight.
Although we deliberately sat on the right side of the plane for the view of Rio, our approach to Galeăo turned out to be inland. Oh well.
Immigration was speedy and our bags arrived on the belt within minutes. I then promptly lost my landing card.
A woman advised me to “pooosh theee booton” to determine if I would get a more thorough customs inspection. The “booton” gave me a green light, so we headed on.
My stepmother was there to greet us with a car she had rented from “Boo-jet-chee” (“Budget” in Portuguese.) She couldn’t remember where she parked, so I didn’t feel so bad about the landing card.
Lost items
Seasoned traveler that I am, I always pay close attention to announcements about “please make sure you have all of your personal belongings.” Oops.
I left my toiletry bag, including my prescriptions, on the flight to Săo Paulo.
We left a few unreturned voicemail messages for Con-chee-nen-TAL baggage service at Guarulhos and Galeăo. I then called Continental baggage service in the USA. The woman on the phone was laughing; “You left your prescriptions on the plane?” She asked incredulously. “And you’re in a foreign country?” I guess she wanted to rub that in.
The next day, we received a call that the bag was found and we could pick it up at Galeăo.
In the interim, we asked some doctor friends to write prescriptions for me to be filled at a Brazilian pharmacy.
We took a drive out to the airport. I mentioned my name at the ticket desk; the staff knew exactly who I was and directed me to the BusinessFirst concierge, Tatiana. She greeted me right away and had my bag waiting for me. I was impressed and relieved.
I will write a thank-you to the Con-chee-nen-TAL staff at Guarulhos and Galeăo for looking after me.
Phew.
Rio
I have mixed feelings about Rio de Janeiro. I adore the beaches, the music, Corcovado, and so on. But Rio is falling apart. There are so many uninhabited buildings, favelas, and other problems. There are so many “no go” parts of town.
My dad kept reminding me that the safety concerns about Rio have been grossly exaggerated. I reminded him that he was recently robbed at gunpoint last year about two blocks from his mother in law’s apartment. He brushed it off.
We did enjoy a trip to Lapa, a newly rejuvenated part of town. We met some family friends and went to the Scenarium, a beautiful club with fantastic “choro” music.
In my opinion, the best parts of Rio are…
The day of our intended departure I commented that I wish we had more time to spend on the beach. My stepmother concurred so we called Aerolíneas Argentinas. Since it was a weekend, we couldn’t get a hold of anyone at the Brazilian toll-free number. I called Miami. Sure enough, we could switch the flight to the following day for a US$30 fee. No problem.
10 April 2006
Aerolíneas Argentinas 1257
GIG-EZE
737-500
Galeăo
There was nobody at the Aerolíneas Argentinas check-in. There was also nobody from Aerolíneas Argentinas, just a ground-handling company. Like India and some other countries, they put Aerolíneas tags on our hand luggage. I’ve never understood that one.
Security was a breeze. My dad and I commented that we felt just as safe and secure without the TSA’s antics.
We then watched the Continental Airlines crew enter the concourse. They looked horrible: obesity, bad hair, bad makeup, sloppy uniforms. I believe that flight and cabin crews should not be judged by their appearance, but I started to think about how they represent the USA when abroad. I don’t suppose there is any easy answer, but it really didn’t look good for America or for Con-chee-nen-TAL.
Once aboard the 737-500 of Aerolíneas Argentinas, a pleasant, bespectacled flight attendant welcomed me on board. He then picked up my bags and placed them in the overhead bins. Three other crew members, all female, made similar efforts. In contrast to Continental, they all looked great.
The crew continuously announced that we were flying to “Ezeiza Airport in the City of Buenos Aires.” Kind of like how my sister attends what is officially called, “Columbia University in the City of New York.”
After an on-time departure, we were offered a vile sandwich, cheese and crackers, and a variety of drinks (including maté, licor de limón, Quilmes, and Argentine wines.) It’s a shame that their meal service has declined so much, but they were certainly eager to provide a constant supply of drinks.
I sat next to young couple from Uruguay who were all over each other. They were very nice, but they were rather—umm—passionate. I didn’t care that much. We chatted a bit and the flight passed by quickly.
In contrast to Galeăo, Ezeiza was gleaming. We disembarked by bus and made a quick trip through immigration. As usual, they picked one bag to be x-rayed at customs. I was entertained by the fact that the x-ray technician wore a white lab coat.
A remis met us outside of customs and we were on our way. The remis was a Jetta (called a “Bora” in Latin America.) It had been reconfigured to run on natural gas. It sounds like a good idea, but it couldn’t go more than about 35 miles per hour and broke down on the highway. After some tinkering, the driver managed to get us into town.
The Hotel Reconquista Plaza
I stayed at the Reconquista Plaza few years ago per FlyerTalk recommendation. At that point, it was about US$45 per night and it was brand-spanking new. Perhaps due to Holy Week, the rate was up to US$120.
The hotel is still nice, but it’s certainly more worn than it was a few years ago. To the hotel’s credit, the staff are still amazing—some of the best I’ve had at any hotel worldwide. I remembered Claudio from a previous stay. Meanwhile, Paulo and Hernán were calm, helpful, and witty while attempting to deal with my high-maintenance parents. (I think they moved rooms four times).
I like the Reconquista and it has a perfect location—walking distance to Puerto Madero, Florida, Retiro, etc. I’m sure that there may be better deals around, but I wouldn’t hesitate to go back there.
Buenos Aires
I’m in love with Buenos Aires. I love Sydney and Stockholm, but Buenos Aires is special. I love going from café to café, people watching, shopping, having a “chopp” while sitting outside in Palermo, browsing the little shops in San Telmo, a walk along Puerto Madero… It’s invigorating. We had perfect weather too.
As I write this, I dream of going back. It’s a shame that I can’t live there—at least not easily. Buenos Aires would be a lot less fun if I were paid in pesos and I think it would be pretty daunting for me to set up a medical practice there. Oh well, at least I can go visit more frequently.
When I speak in Spanish, I have an unmistakable Argentine accent. But apparently I’ve spent a bit too much time in the US talking to Mexicans and Puerto Ricans. I got busted on a few occasions using mexodominicopuertosalvadoran words. I once asked for “cacahuates” (peanuts) instead of “manís.” The bartender found this exceptionally funny. I also made reference to “gasolina” instead of “nafta,” also eliciting a few chuckles.
Now for some interesting side trips.
ESMA
My dad had never been to see ESMA, so we made a side trip together. La Escuela Mecánica de la Armada (“Navy Mechanics School”) was a principal detention center during the Dictatorship. Under Massera and others, “enemies of the state” were detained, tortured, and killed there. In the past, there was no sign that anything had happened there… no monuments, no flowers, not even the slightest gesture of remembrance. In fact, ESMA is a beautiful campus in a ritzy part of town.
As Argentina observes the 30th anniversary of the coup, ESMA’s history is no longer obscured. The fences are now covered with works of art depicting photos of the disappeared, pregnant women who have lost their children, and wreaths were placed in the fence. The government is not silent either; a large mural notes that ESMA will be the site of a museum and a “Center for the Protection of Human Rights.”
Argentina is healing. And in a style characteristic of Argentinos the way of healing is to talk about it. Graffiti is everywhere saying “30,000” (the supposed number of disappeared people) or “Where were you in the 70’s?” The bookstores are filled with books about the Dictatorship and a biography of Videla was a recent bestseller.
A chilling ad campaign refers to efforts by the Mothers and Grandmothers of the Plaza de Mayo to locate their missing children and grandchildren. There are still hundreds of people my age who were given as “gifts” to military families after their parents disappeared. “We are looking for you among everyone,” says the ad. It advised the viewer to call a certain number if “you have any doubts about your identity.”
The House on Garibaldi Street
And another diversion to Argentina’s darker past… When I was little, my favorite book was The House on Garibaldi Street by Isser Harel. It is the story of the Mossad’s kidnapping of Adolf Eichmann in Buenos Aires. Although the details are subject to debate, the story is better than even the most fantastic spy novel. I read it for the first time in about 7th grade and I’ve probably read it about once a year since then. It’s a page turner.
After a fair bit of research on my behalf, my dad and I went to the site of the house. We hired a remis and explained that we wanted to go to a location in Vicente Lopez and another in San Fernando.
I “tested the waters” a bit with the driver. I didn’t want to have some anti-Semitic cab driver go crazy. Nothing could have been further from the truth: the driver had read the book and loved the idea of driving to San Fernando.
The street names have changed. I had Xeroxed maps and brought copies from the book with me. The driver and I stopped a few times to ask directions and make sure that we were headed to the right street corner.
Once we arrived, we wanted to be absolutely sure. My dad urged me to ask inside of an auto repair shop. “You go!” I recommended. No such luck, so I rang the bell. “Where is the ‘famous house’ located?” I asked delicately. They knew right away and showed me. The driver asked someone else who verified this, explaining that some filmmakers had been by a few years ago.
I absolutely treasure my photo of me in front of the House on Garibaldi Street, or at least the place where it was. My friends here in the US who have read the book are particularly jealous.
14 April 2006
Aerolíneas Argentinas/Austral 2724
AEP-IGR
My stepmother had to return to Rio de Janeiro, so my dad and I headed to Misiones. My dad had never been to Iguazú, so we decided to go together. Plane tickets were particularly cheap (about US$100); the hotel was not. The Tropical das Cataratas only had some sort of fancy deluxe room available for US$350, so we only went for one night.
At Aeroparque, we found out that our flight had been delayed for 2.5 hours. Not wanting to wait around and miss a day at the falls, my dad suggested that we try another airline. I leaped over to LAN Argentina and found two seats at $100 each for the next flight. After some negotiations, my dad arranged for Aerolíneas Argentinas to refund our tickets and issue boarding cards for the return flight.
We boarded a relatively beat-up 737-200 in an all-economy configuration. LAN didn’t seem much different from Aerolíneas Argentinas in terms of service, efficiency, etc. except that LAN left on time. My dad commented on the snazzy crew uniforms, complete with US flags for English-speakers.
A small snack of a “meat” sandwich and an alfajor was served, along with complimentary beer, wine, and other drinks.
We made a speedy arrival into Aeropuerto Internacional Puerto de Iguazú and hopped in a taxi for the hour-long ride to the Hotel Tropical das Cataratas. I could have sworn that the airport was once named after General Somebody.
The taxi drive involved an amusing stop at Brazilian customs. This required everyone to get out of the car and stomp on a wet antiseptic-laden doormat. As an epidemiologist, I fail to see the logic. But it was fun to watch.
Hotel Tropical das Cataratas
There are a few hotels in the world that I consider to be my favorites: The Norfolk Hotel Nairobi; The Hotel Russell, Sydney; The Charles Hotel at Harvard Square; and the Hotel Tropical Das Cataratas. When I mentioned the hotel my dad, he said “Ohhhh, we stayed at the Tropical in Manaus and it was amazing.”
My dad and I made numerous Boys from Brazil comments. "Where do they keep all the litttle Hitlers?" I asked.
Although I didn't come across any baby Hitlers, the visit did not let me down. The property is just beautiful: a pink mansion amid a view of 275 waterfalls. The grounds are immaculately maintained, the staff were pleasant, and the view was unbeatable.
How can I forget the elaborate breakfast served in a dining room overlooking the falls? I could sit by that pool for days… watching toucans and sipping a batida.
Of course we took many long walks along the paths down to the falls themselves. It’s like no other place on earth; photos do not do it justice.
15 April 2006
Aerolíneas Argentinas/Austral 2729
IGR-AEP
We returned to the Airport Formerly Known as General Somebody to find that Aerolíneas Argentinas had delayed our flight by six hours. Considering that I had an international connection out of Ezeiza, that wouldn’t really work. So I once again hopped over to LAN Argentina and bought two seats for $100 a pop while my dad took care of refunding the Aerolíneas Argentinas tickets.
We were asked to sign a mysterious “release” for passengers purchasing last-minute tickets. It said something about service and seat assignments. I didn’t quite understand it.
Boarding was almost catastrophic: there was a family of about 12 people from Spain, most of them under 10 years of age. There was much discussion about who would sit next to Nacho and what happened to Roberto. The cabin crew were as accommodating as possible, but they seemed a bit frustrated.
We managed to push back 10 minutes late; the captain announced that we would make up the time in flight.
The meaning of the “release” soon became evident: there weren’t enough meals loaded for last-minute passengers. This irritated my father; I can’t imagine why he would care about a lousy, cold sandwich. I guess it was just the idea. I didn’t mind and happily downed a Quilmes, thereby passing the time rather quickly.
We made a quick arrival into Aeroparque, where our bags were some of the first off the belt.
I then hopped into a taxi for Ezeiza. I was glad that I allowed enough time since traffic was thick. I felt deeply saddened as I said goodbye to Buenos Aires.
15April 2006
Continental 52
EZE-IAH
767-200ER
Ezeiza
I made my way to the Continental check-in, which was very crowded. I waited in the BusinessFirst line. A security agent saw me looking bored and opened up his own line for me. As usual for Ezeiza, he was young, cheery and unobtrusive. Just a few questions about my bags, that’s it. He did introduce himself as being from “Continental Security,” I had the overwhelming urge to ask, “So how come your ID tag says ‘Aviation Security’ instead of Continental?” But I decided that would get in me into trouble. I do find it really odd that they always introduce themselves as airline employees when they’re not.
Check-in was very quick. The BusinessFirst concierge, Pamela, made ID tags for my bags using my business cards. I thought that was cute.
I then waited forever at the only open “cambio” to switch my pesos into dollars. This was absolutely necessary because I needed the cash to pay the departure tax.
Security had about a 5 minute wait. I noted that anyone wearing a jacket was frisked, so I took mine off. No problem. I waltzed through, shoes on, no hassles. The security people were—as usual—smiling.
Another quick wait in the immigration line, where I was once again greeted with a pleasant smile by an older immigration officer.
Then the last stops: duty free and the tax-free refund line. The latter involved a long wait, but the staff were friendly and my paperwork was processed in a few seconds (other passengers weren’t quite as organized.)
I couldn’t find the BusinessFirst line for boarding, so I just found an available security person. He was friendly and wished me a pleasant flight.
Just to make life fun, I was pulled aside for additional inspection. Unlike the TSA, this turned out to be entirely benign. The security woman, Sandra, took a quick look through my carry-on and chatted with me the whole time. Her coworker, Nidia, ran a wand rather quickly around me and wished me a pleasant flight. No shoe inspection, no frisking. Can I just take Sandra and Nidia with me to every airport I go to and let them screen me?
After all of the hoops, I made my way on board the completely full 767-200ER. I was seated behind a large man in “Yogi” attire. He was headed to Tokyo. I was surrounded by mostly Americans and these were Americans with problems. One woman was absolutely livid that the other side of the aircraft received drinks and nuts first. Good grief.
The captain made a warm welcome speech, foregoing any threats about congregating near the restrooms. One of the captains took his crew rest seat, making pleasant conversation with passengers on the way.
The cabin crew were fantastic. One woman was as soothing as possible, assuring this woman that it would be a long flight, they would have plenty of time, and that she shouldn’t hesitate to ask for anything. I was more than a little impressed.
The only sore point of the crew was the purser, Ed B-----. Ed was—well—a stereotypical b----y American flight attendant: unsmiling with an unusual command of English. Ed made a lot of announcements that he must have practiced a lot at home. “We are pleased to offer refreshing Coca-Cola beverages here at Continental Airlines.” Oh zip it, Ed. His sincerity was about as genuine as his tan. (There’s my mean streak again.)
Fortunately, Ed was in the back of the plane. I was served by two nameless, but exceptionally pleasant cabin crew. They served every meal in perfect synchrony, smiling the whole time. They were often assisted by a younger, Colombian guy who was a similarly gracious host.
The proposed appetizer of shrimp was not offered, instead the offering was “smoked catfish.” The flight attendant read my face pretty well and we mutually decided that I would forego the appetizer. I once again opted for chicken, given the success on the outbound flight.
The catering was not as good. I don’t know if Continental caters these flights out of Houston or Buenos Aires, but it just wasn’t as good. The potato thing was kind of like Jell-O and the asparagus was overcooked.
I attempted to order an Argentine wine. “It must have been good,” the flight attendant said, “because they drank all of it before dinner on the way out.” I settled for the syrah, RH Philips EXP Syrah 2000, which was actually really good.
The bread was once again barely warmed. My belief is that the US carriers should serve the bread out of foil. It’s not as classy as the baskets, but the bread might stay warmer. I also think Continental did better when they had actual loaves of bread. They haven’t had those in a while.
I was once again a slow-learner, opting for the non-sundae dessert. It was a cold, not very good strudel. I should have known.
During and after dinner I watched The Family Stone which was not very good, but it passed the time.
The most demanding woman had multiple issues relating to her food, how to operate the video system, and so on. She also expected the cabin crew to explain what the movies were about. To my surprise, the crew were obliging and talked her through everything.
The Yogi was similarly high-maintenance; I think he actually made a pass at the Colombian flight attendant. One really sharp crew member told him how she was going to make him a special meal out of vegetarian cannelloni “because it’s so good.” Of course she was actually saying, “They didn’t load your @#$! vegetarian meal, sir.” But the Yogi didn’t catch on and seemed to think that he was getting a good deal.
I fell asleep somewhere over Paraguay and awoke over Cancún to the sound of clinking glasses. That was probably the best night’s sleep I’ve ever had on an airplane. This goes back to my theory that there is less jetlag on longer flights because you can sleep longer.
Breakfast consisted of a puke-green omelet, which I ate anyway. The coffee and croissants were very good.
Before landing, I took a moment to compliment the two BusinessFirst cabin crew for handling such difficult people with aplomb. They were both flattered and acknowledged that they were frustrated too. “I didn’t know what to do.” she said, “Was I supposed to be funny? Apologetic? I couldn’t figure out what they wanted.” One had been flying for 34 years, the other for just seven. Continental should be really proud to have these people on board; they really worked well together in a challenging environment.
I couldn’t really tell that we were landing because the shades were all down (a bad idea, if you ask me.) But we made a quick taxi to the gate.
Houston
After the usual long walk to immigration, there was no line. A disinterested agent asked how long I was gone and sent me on my way.
Bags were a little slow, but I was also one of the first off the plane. That gave me more time to listen to appalling announcements about how I would be arrested for “inappropriate comments” and how my belongings will be “confiscated.” Home sweet home.
I walked through customs without any questions and dropped my bag off at the connections desk.
Then another 15 minute wait for our chums at the TSA. Houston featured 100% mandatory shoe removal, except for off-duty crewmembers, airport employees, and the TSA themselves. I’m so glad that they’re consistent and sensible.
There was some chatter about my laptop batteries, which involved a grumbling woman and an explosive detector. Actually, it may not have been a woman but possibly a cyborg. I’m not sure.
At least the fairly new President’s Club was awesome. Barb Swartz (I think) was the name of the woman at the desk. We chatted a bit, then I made my way upstairs for a shower.
Although nothing glamorous, the shower felt good and the gentleman handling the shower facilities was smiling and eager to help me (not help me shower, presumably.)
I grabbed some coffee, juice, and a doughnut (okay two doughnuts), checked my email, and then headed off to the gate.
16 April 2006
Continental 544
IAH-CLE
737-500
My stepmother was actually on this flight, en route from Rio back to Cleveland. Her seat was in economy. We had talked at length prior to the trip about if I was expected to give my seat to her. After negotiations, it was determined that I would stay in first class, since I had paid for the upgrade for that flight and she was relying on an Elite upgrade that didn’t happen.
Although it’s a bit of a blur, this flight was fine. I had some palatable coffee, cereal, and a really good fruit plate (good mangoes) and read the paper. The cabin crew were not so good, but the flight from Buenos Aires was a tough act to follow. They did their jobs, but they were nothing to write home about.
Cleveland
I walked with my stepmother out to the end of the concourse, and we sat down for a bit. This gave us the unpleasant opportunity to watch the TSA at work. It was one grandmother after the next getting secondary treatment. Cleveland was actually the only airport on the whole trip where I saw a lot of this.
My stepmother grew up in a military dictatorship, so she’s especially sensitive about such matters. It was painful to watch these women in their 60’s and 70’s with their arms spread apart, having an unsmiling guard grasp up and down their arms and legs. The system has got to change.
6 April 2006
Continental Express 2522
CLE-CMH
ERJ-135
After saying goodbye to my stepmother, I made the seemingly endless walk back to the D concourse, where my gate was the very last one. Fortunately, I ran into an old colleague at the gate, so we chatted for a while.
The flight to Columbus was mercifully brief and actually kind of pleasant. I enjoyed watching our progress, attempting to identify landmarks, and so on. The flight attendant, Jill, was warm and wished everyone a happy Easter.
I do hate disembarkation of Continental Express flights at Columbus. They do not open the cabin door until the gate check cart is loaded and pulled up to the door. This always seems to take forever, but I suppose it is to prevent passengers from lingering on the tarmac while waiting for their bags. But for those of us with no gate checked bags, it’s more than a little irritating.
One of my friends was waiting for me by the entrance to the baggage claim and my bag was one of the first to come off the belt. I was home within 25 minutes of landing.
Concluding remarks
Continental Airlines
For the most part, a very good experience. They are not Air France, but they have some excellent crews, decent food, and the best business class seat of any US carrier. My only recommendations are: 1. Glitzier cosmetics in the clubs and the aircraft restrooms 2. Warmer bread.
Aerolíneas Argentinas
Uh-oh. I don’t know what was happening there. I had previously had very good experiences with them, but the delays were a mess. They also certainly lost points in terms of their catering from Rio to Buenos Aires. That was pretty sad. I’ll wait until they have their act together before flying with them again.
LAN Argentina
Saved the day. Twice. They had efficient, punctual service. They certainly gave Aerolíneas Argentinas a run for their money.
Hotel Reconquista Plaza, Buenos Aires
Still a good choice. No longer a phenomenal bargain, but it’s still not bad. The staff are still excellent.
Hotel Tropical das Cataratas
If you haven’t gone, go!
There is something particularly magical about saying, “I’m going to Rio de Janeiro.” I had fantasies about showing up at the airport early: “Pardon me, where is the flight to Rio? Rio de Janeiro? Is it this way? The flight to Rio, which I am on?” Call it schadenfreude, but I sorted of wanted to chat with other passengers. “Where are you headed? Cedar Rapids? That sounds nice. I’m going to Rio."
The story was that my folks were headed to Rio and Buenos Aires. My stepmother is actually from Rio and my father’s father came from Argentina. Although I had been to Brazil previously, I had never been to Rio. I was, of course, eager to go back to Buenos Aires.
Continental was offering promotional fares under $1,000 for flights to South America, so how could I turn them down? I used additional miles and Continental’s extortionate $800 fee to upgrade to BusinessFirst. To be fair, $1,800 and some miles isn’t so bad for an open-jaw Business Class ticket to South America.
6 April 2006
Continental 552
CMH-EWR
737-500
Check in
The night before the trip, I received an email saying, “Check in online for your flight to Rio de Janeiro.” This was—of course—a big lie. Since a visa is required to travel to Brazil, online check-in is not available. I did go ahead and verify my seat selection but could not print any useful documents for the airport.
I packed up my bags during my lunch hour, saw a handful of afternoon patients, and then had a friend drive me to the airport.
There was one person ahead of me in the line. I used the nifty passport scanner at the kiosk. A friendly agent, Melissa, verified my visa, and I finished the check-in process. There was a 50 minute delay, but I had a long layover at Newark; I wasn’t really complaining.
The first leg of my journey was to be the only segment in economy class. I overheard an agent at check-in advise another passenger that CMH-EWR on Thursday afternoons is invariably full in first class. He said, “you have to be on a super-expensive business class ticket.” I didn’t hang out waiting for my upgrade to clear; the flight is less than an hour.
TSA
It was the usual embarrassing display of American paranoia was in full force. The TSA agents were talking loudly to each other about their favorite wine coolers. Absolutely mandatory shoe removal was in force for everyone. There was a lot of yelling, as is customary at CMH. “You’ve got ONE CHANCE to get through,” barked the screener at the metal detector. I made it through unscathed, but irritated. I did not, however, see anyone getting frisked or wanded.
The gate
I amused myself by people-watching. I was connected via instant messenger to one of my friends, so I offered a play-by-play. I especially liked a woman on her cell phone, essentially saying to everyone, “I am THE MOST IMPORTANT PERON THIS WHOLE FLIGHT.” I took great pleasure in watching her take her seat in economy. If only I could have sat next to her to talk about where I was headed (ooh, I do have an evil streak.)
The flight
This was a completely full flight. Interestingly enough, they permitted passengers with international connections to board after elites. I have no idea why that courtesy was extended.
I felt exceptionally uncomfortable in the 737-500, probably because it was so full. I sat next to some newlyweds who had the remains of their wedding cake with them. They spent a lot of time talking about their debt.
Newark
Wow. So much has changed. Terminal C looked great! Flights to everywhere in the world, clean, bright lighting, friendly staff in red coats… I was impressed.
I proceeded to the President’s Club near gate 103 for a shower. I was unimpressed. The club was jammed with people and didn’t seem particularly inviting. The shower was okay, but—unlike Delta, Air France, and others—Continental just provides a generic soap and shampoo dispenser. No cute cosmetic toys and rather weak towels.
After cleaning up, I met my dad’s flight from Cleveland. The two of us went to the OTHER President’s Club, by gate 74. It is showerless but much nicer and much less crowded. There were three bubbly women at the reception desk. They proceeded to type a bunch of stuff into their computers for no obvious reason, but then bid us a good trip. We grabbed a drink and toasted to our onward journey. My stepmother was already in Rio, so it would just be the two of us.
6 April 2006
Continental 31
EWR-GRU
767-200ER
Boarding
“Should we ‘be elitist?” asked my father as we approached gate 102. I nodded. We marched past the crowds of economy class passengers and stepped on the blue carpet. “Elite? Business Class?” asked the agent. We nodded, he opened the stanchions and sent us on board.
An attractive Brazilian flight attendant welcomed us on board. My dad commented at how beautiful she looked, how well her uniform fit, and so on. Her national origin was abundantly clear.
The purser, David Hamkin, proceeded to each pair of seats, introducing himself and the BusinessFirst crew. David advised us that he would have a position in economy, but we should not be afraid to ask for him. He then introduced Susan and Suze, the crew who would serve us. We were impressed. I have certainly had pursers introduce themselves, but I’ve never had them introduce the rest of the crew.
We made an expeditious departure from Newark due to the late evening departure. With a short taxi, we were on our way to Săo Paulo by way of Bermuda, the Eastern Caribbean, and the Northeast of Brazil.
The captain made a welcome speech, including nonsense about “congregating in the aisles,” about how first class passengers must not enter the galley, and other silliness.
There was a lengthy delay before starting the inflight service. A glance at the Airshow indicated why: we were circling. The captain announced that we had encountered flap problems that had since resolved and that we should not worry.
My father and I had both consulted the menu on continental.com prior to our trip and noted that the chicken looked good. My father commented that it would be silly to order steak—we were going to South America!
TO BEGIN
Warm roasted nuts
served with your preferred cocktail or beverage
LATE NIGHT SUPPER
APPETIZER SALAD
Mesclun salad mix with English cucumbers,
red onion rings, Roma tomatoes and a Kalamata olive
Offered with your choice of Champagne vinaigrette
or blue cheese dressing
For your enjoyment, smoked salmon with cream cheese and caviar
may be added to your salad
Ciabatta bread, multi-grain and pretzel breadsticks
and assorted rolls with butter
EXECUTIVE MEAL OPTION
If you should prefer more time to work or relax,
we suggest this complete meal presented all at once,
whenever you wish.
Appetizer Salad
Mesclun salad mix with English cucumbers,
red onion rings, Roma tomatoes and a Kalamata olive,
topped with smoked salmon with cream cheese and caviar
Offered with your choice of Champagne vinaigrette
or blue cheese dressing
Entree
Please choose your main course
from the entree selections featured on this menu
Chocolate
MAIN COURSES
The Chef’s Selection
Sterling Silverª grilled rib-eye steak seasoned with pepper,
accented by red wine sauce with chanterelle mushrooms
White cheddar cheese mashed potatoes with chives
Grilled green asparagus spears
Surf and Turf
Grilled shrimp and Sterling Silverª tenderloin of beef
complemented by Cajun Hollandaise sauce
Sautéed baby spinach with garlic, onion and salsify
Oven-roasted carrots, jícama and turnips
Tandoori Breast of Chicken
Enhanced by tomato cream sauce,
offered with curried chickpeas, basmati rice with raisins
and peas in a savory cheese sauce
Cucumber and mint flavored yogurt Sweet lemon pickles
Pasta Bowl
Pasta shells filled with sun-dried tomatoes and goat cheese,
complemented by spicy eggplant arrabbiata sauce,
tossed with sautéed baby spinach
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese will be offered with your pasta
Fresh steamed asparagus is available upon request
to accompany any entree
FRUIT AND CHEESE PLATE
Select American and imported cheeses
accompanied by grapes and crackers, served with Port wine
DESSERT CART
Featuring Edy’s Classic Grand vanilla ice cream
offered with your choice of toppings
or warm fruit cobbler topped with vanilla ice cream
Fresh Brew® gourmet roasted regular and decaffeinated coffee
made exclusively for Continental Airlines
Tea with your choice of milk or lemon Hot chocolate
Enjoy a cup of freshly brewed Emilio Caffè Italian Espresso or Cappuccino
available exclusively in BusinessFirst on our 777 and 767 aircraft.
BREAKFAST
Will be offered prior to arrival
A selection of juices
Fresh seasonal fruit
Assorted breads
including cinnamon and crusty rolls and warm croissants
with butter and strawberry preserves
•••••
Omelette
Topped with cheddar cheese,
offered with Lyonnaise potatoes and smoked pork loin
Selected Cereal
Served with milk, yogurt and a banana
•••••
Fresh Brew® gourmet roasted regular and decaffeinated coffee
made exclusively for Continental Airlines
Tea with your choice of milk or lemon Hot chocolate
Warm roasted nuts
served with your preferred cocktail or beverage
LATE NIGHT SUPPER
APPETIZER SALAD
Mesclun salad mix with English cucumbers,
red onion rings, Roma tomatoes and a Kalamata olive
Offered with your choice of Champagne vinaigrette
or blue cheese dressing
For your enjoyment, smoked salmon with cream cheese and caviar
may be added to your salad
Ciabatta bread, multi-grain and pretzel breadsticks
and assorted rolls with butter
EXECUTIVE MEAL OPTION
If you should prefer more time to work or relax,
we suggest this complete meal presented all at once,
whenever you wish.
Appetizer Salad
Mesclun salad mix with English cucumbers,
red onion rings, Roma tomatoes and a Kalamata olive,
topped with smoked salmon with cream cheese and caviar
Offered with your choice of Champagne vinaigrette
or blue cheese dressing
Entree
Please choose your main course
from the entree selections featured on this menu
Chocolate
MAIN COURSES
The Chef’s Selection
Sterling Silverª grilled rib-eye steak seasoned with pepper,
accented by red wine sauce with chanterelle mushrooms
White cheddar cheese mashed potatoes with chives
Grilled green asparagus spears
Surf and Turf
Grilled shrimp and Sterling Silverª tenderloin of beef
complemented by Cajun Hollandaise sauce
Sautéed baby spinach with garlic, onion and salsify
Oven-roasted carrots, jícama and turnips
Tandoori Breast of Chicken
Enhanced by tomato cream sauce,
offered with curried chickpeas, basmati rice with raisins
and peas in a savory cheese sauce
Cucumber and mint flavored yogurt Sweet lemon pickles
Pasta Bowl
Pasta shells filled with sun-dried tomatoes and goat cheese,
complemented by spicy eggplant arrabbiata sauce,
tossed with sautéed baby spinach
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese will be offered with your pasta
Fresh steamed asparagus is available upon request
to accompany any entree
FRUIT AND CHEESE PLATE
Select American and imported cheeses
accompanied by grapes and crackers, served with Port wine
DESSERT CART
Featuring Edy’s Classic Grand vanilla ice cream
offered with your choice of toppings
or warm fruit cobbler topped with vanilla ice cream
Fresh Brew® gourmet roasted regular and decaffeinated coffee
made exclusively for Continental Airlines
Tea with your choice of milk or lemon Hot chocolate
Enjoy a cup of freshly brewed Emilio Caffè Italian Espresso or Cappuccino
available exclusively in BusinessFirst on our 777 and 767 aircraft.
BREAKFAST
Will be offered prior to arrival
A selection of juices
Fresh seasonal fruit
Assorted breads
including cinnamon and crusty rolls and warm croissants
with butter and strawberry preserves
•••••
Omelette
Topped with cheddar cheese,
offered with Lyonnaise potatoes and smoked pork loin
Selected Cereal
Served with milk, yogurt and a banana
•••••
Fresh Brew® gourmet roasted regular and decaffeinated coffee
made exclusively for Continental Airlines
Tea with your choice of milk or lemon Hot chocolate
Suze and Susan got to work, bringing us warm nuts, lukewarm bread, Campari, then a lifeless salad. The main course looked beautiful, except that it was ICE COLD.
Susan apologized and brought our plates back to the galley. To my surprise, she was able to put the whole plates back in the oven (I thought that the ovens could only accommodate the little foil containers.) After reheating, the chicken was excellent—with a spicy sauce, a large, tender piece of chicken, and decent rice.
My dad liked the cheese plate, but I was unimpressed. It looked too pre-packaged. He had a sundae and I opted for blueberry cobbler. I should have chosen the sundae; the cobbler tasted like something from the hospital cafeteria but warmed-up. And I—hate to brag about such things—but I am a connoisseur of hospital cafeteria food.
Susan and Suze were not equals. Suze showed remarkable style and warmth. She took great care with each element of the service. Although Susan was by no means inept or unfriendly, she was more or less functional. She also made the typical unpolished move of filling the wine glasses to the very top.
My dad and I both watched Syriana and both agreed that we couldn’t follow it. Oh well. We both promptly passed-out.
After a surprisingly comfortable rest, I awoke about two hours prior to arrival. Suze came by with piping hot croissants and very cold fruit. I ordered a cappuccino, which was apparently made of jet fuel and pencil shavings.
My dad and I amused ourselves with the Brazilian Customs and Immigration video. The woman in the video is presumably a customs official, but she is totally showing her thigh during the video.
7 April 2006
Continental 93
GRU-GIG
767-400
We made an on-time arrival at Săo Paulo/Guarulhos. This required a little loop to pass through transit security. Unlike the USA, this was a quick and painless trip through the metal detector. My dad and I took a little walk around the terminal and prepared for our connecting flight.
“Where are the podiums?” I asked my dad. I was looking for the typical security interview, frisking, etc. that takes place prior to the departure of an overseas flight operated by a US carrier. Sure enough, none of the nearby flights to the USA had this setup. To my chagrin, we began boarding. About halfway down the Jetway, a beautiful Brazilian woman greeted my in Portuguese and English, “Your carry-on luggage, it has been with you, yes?” That was it. They appeared set up with wands, etc., but they weren’t using them.
Once on board, my dad greeted two flight attendants he knew from previously flights to Rio. One of them was Nelson; I can’t remember the other one. My dad told me that he had flown with them “for years.” The crew all seemed to be in a good mood for the quick flight.
Although we deliberately sat on the right side of the plane for the view of Rio, our approach to Galeăo turned out to be inland. Oh well.
Immigration was speedy and our bags arrived on the belt within minutes. I then promptly lost my landing card.
A woman advised me to “pooosh theee booton” to determine if I would get a more thorough customs inspection. The “booton” gave me a green light, so we headed on.
My stepmother was there to greet us with a car she had rented from “Boo-jet-chee” (“Budget” in Portuguese.) She couldn’t remember where she parked, so I didn’t feel so bad about the landing card.
Lost items
Seasoned traveler that I am, I always pay close attention to announcements about “please make sure you have all of your personal belongings.” Oops.
I left my toiletry bag, including my prescriptions, on the flight to Săo Paulo.
We left a few unreturned voicemail messages for Con-chee-nen-TAL baggage service at Guarulhos and Galeăo. I then called Continental baggage service in the USA. The woman on the phone was laughing; “You left your prescriptions on the plane?” She asked incredulously. “And you’re in a foreign country?” I guess she wanted to rub that in.
The next day, we received a call that the bag was found and we could pick it up at Galeăo.
In the interim, we asked some doctor friends to write prescriptions for me to be filled at a Brazilian pharmacy.
We took a drive out to the airport. I mentioned my name at the ticket desk; the staff knew exactly who I was and directed me to the BusinessFirst concierge, Tatiana. She greeted me right away and had my bag waiting for me. I was impressed and relieved.
I will write a thank-you to the Con-chee-nen-TAL staff at Guarulhos and Galeăo for looking after me.
Phew.
Rio
I have mixed feelings about Rio de Janeiro. I adore the beaches, the music, Corcovado, and so on. But Rio is falling apart. There are so many uninhabited buildings, favelas, and other problems. There are so many “no go” parts of town.
My dad kept reminding me that the safety concerns about Rio have been grossly exaggerated. I reminded him that he was recently robbed at gunpoint last year about two blocks from his mother in law’s apartment. He brushed it off.
We did enjoy a trip to Lapa, a newly rejuvenated part of town. We met some family friends and went to the Scenarium, a beautiful club with fantastic “choro” music.
In my opinion, the best parts of Rio are…
- The music. The bossa nova, the chorinho… it’s inescapable and beautiful.
- The juice bars. How could you not love the sucos? Purees of various fruits you've never heard of.... mmmm. In the evening, the suco becomes a batida with cachaça mixed in.
- The signs in clothing stores. A sale on men's clothing is described as a liquidacăo masculino ("Look Matt," my stepmother said, "they're selling masculine liquidations!")
The day of our intended departure I commented that I wish we had more time to spend on the beach. My stepmother concurred so we called Aerolíneas Argentinas. Since it was a weekend, we couldn’t get a hold of anyone at the Brazilian toll-free number. I called Miami. Sure enough, we could switch the flight to the following day for a US$30 fee. No problem.
10 April 2006
Aerolíneas Argentinas 1257
GIG-EZE
737-500
Galeăo
There was nobody at the Aerolíneas Argentinas check-in. There was also nobody from Aerolíneas Argentinas, just a ground-handling company. Like India and some other countries, they put Aerolíneas tags on our hand luggage. I’ve never understood that one.
Security was a breeze. My dad and I commented that we felt just as safe and secure without the TSA’s antics.
We then watched the Continental Airlines crew enter the concourse. They looked horrible: obesity, bad hair, bad makeup, sloppy uniforms. I believe that flight and cabin crews should not be judged by their appearance, but I started to think about how they represent the USA when abroad. I don’t suppose there is any easy answer, but it really didn’t look good for America or for Con-chee-nen-TAL.
Once aboard the 737-500 of Aerolíneas Argentinas, a pleasant, bespectacled flight attendant welcomed me on board. He then picked up my bags and placed them in the overhead bins. Three other crew members, all female, made similar efforts. In contrast to Continental, they all looked great.
The crew continuously announced that we were flying to “Ezeiza Airport in the City of Buenos Aires.” Kind of like how my sister attends what is officially called, “Columbia University in the City of New York.”
After an on-time departure, we were offered a vile sandwich, cheese and crackers, and a variety of drinks (including maté, licor de limón, Quilmes, and Argentine wines.) It’s a shame that their meal service has declined so much, but they were certainly eager to provide a constant supply of drinks.
I sat next to young couple from Uruguay who were all over each other. They were very nice, but they were rather—umm—passionate. I didn’t care that much. We chatted a bit and the flight passed by quickly.
In contrast to Galeăo, Ezeiza was gleaming. We disembarked by bus and made a quick trip through immigration. As usual, they picked one bag to be x-rayed at customs. I was entertained by the fact that the x-ray technician wore a white lab coat.
A remis met us outside of customs and we were on our way. The remis was a Jetta (called a “Bora” in Latin America.) It had been reconfigured to run on natural gas. It sounds like a good idea, but it couldn’t go more than about 35 miles per hour and broke down on the highway. After some tinkering, the driver managed to get us into town.
The Hotel Reconquista Plaza
I stayed at the Reconquista Plaza few years ago per FlyerTalk recommendation. At that point, it was about US$45 per night and it was brand-spanking new. Perhaps due to Holy Week, the rate was up to US$120.
The hotel is still nice, but it’s certainly more worn than it was a few years ago. To the hotel’s credit, the staff are still amazing—some of the best I’ve had at any hotel worldwide. I remembered Claudio from a previous stay. Meanwhile, Paulo and Hernán were calm, helpful, and witty while attempting to deal with my high-maintenance parents. (I think they moved rooms four times).
I like the Reconquista and it has a perfect location—walking distance to Puerto Madero, Florida, Retiro, etc. I’m sure that there may be better deals around, but I wouldn’t hesitate to go back there.
Buenos Aires
I’m in love with Buenos Aires. I love Sydney and Stockholm, but Buenos Aires is special. I love going from café to café, people watching, shopping, having a “chopp” while sitting outside in Palermo, browsing the little shops in San Telmo, a walk along Puerto Madero… It’s invigorating. We had perfect weather too.
As I write this, I dream of going back. It’s a shame that I can’t live there—at least not easily. Buenos Aires would be a lot less fun if I were paid in pesos and I think it would be pretty daunting for me to set up a medical practice there. Oh well, at least I can go visit more frequently.
When I speak in Spanish, I have an unmistakable Argentine accent. But apparently I’ve spent a bit too much time in the US talking to Mexicans and Puerto Ricans. I got busted on a few occasions using mexodominicopuertosalvadoran words. I once asked for “cacahuates” (peanuts) instead of “manís.” The bartender found this exceptionally funny. I also made reference to “gasolina” instead of “nafta,” also eliciting a few chuckles.
Now for some interesting side trips.
ESMA
My dad had never been to see ESMA, so we made a side trip together. La Escuela Mecánica de la Armada (“Navy Mechanics School”) was a principal detention center during the Dictatorship. Under Massera and others, “enemies of the state” were detained, tortured, and killed there. In the past, there was no sign that anything had happened there… no monuments, no flowers, not even the slightest gesture of remembrance. In fact, ESMA is a beautiful campus in a ritzy part of town.
As Argentina observes the 30th anniversary of the coup, ESMA’s history is no longer obscured. The fences are now covered with works of art depicting photos of the disappeared, pregnant women who have lost their children, and wreaths were placed in the fence. The government is not silent either; a large mural notes that ESMA will be the site of a museum and a “Center for the Protection of Human Rights.”
Argentina is healing. And in a style characteristic of Argentinos the way of healing is to talk about it. Graffiti is everywhere saying “30,000” (the supposed number of disappeared people) or “Where were you in the 70’s?” The bookstores are filled with books about the Dictatorship and a biography of Videla was a recent bestseller.
A chilling ad campaign refers to efforts by the Mothers and Grandmothers of the Plaza de Mayo to locate their missing children and grandchildren. There are still hundreds of people my age who were given as “gifts” to military families after their parents disappeared. “We are looking for you among everyone,” says the ad. It advised the viewer to call a certain number if “you have any doubts about your identity.”
The House on Garibaldi Street
And another diversion to Argentina’s darker past… When I was little, my favorite book was The House on Garibaldi Street by Isser Harel. It is the story of the Mossad’s kidnapping of Adolf Eichmann in Buenos Aires. Although the details are subject to debate, the story is better than even the most fantastic spy novel. I read it for the first time in about 7th grade and I’ve probably read it about once a year since then. It’s a page turner.
After a fair bit of research on my behalf, my dad and I went to the site of the house. We hired a remis and explained that we wanted to go to a location in Vicente Lopez and another in San Fernando.
I “tested the waters” a bit with the driver. I didn’t want to have some anti-Semitic cab driver go crazy. Nothing could have been further from the truth: the driver had read the book and loved the idea of driving to San Fernando.
The street names have changed. I had Xeroxed maps and brought copies from the book with me. The driver and I stopped a few times to ask directions and make sure that we were headed to the right street corner.
Once we arrived, we wanted to be absolutely sure. My dad urged me to ask inside of an auto repair shop. “You go!” I recommended. No such luck, so I rang the bell. “Where is the ‘famous house’ located?” I asked delicately. They knew right away and showed me. The driver asked someone else who verified this, explaining that some filmmakers had been by a few years ago.
I absolutely treasure my photo of me in front of the House on Garibaldi Street, or at least the place where it was. My friends here in the US who have read the book are particularly jealous.
14 April 2006
Aerolíneas Argentinas/Austral 2724
AEP-IGR
My stepmother had to return to Rio de Janeiro, so my dad and I headed to Misiones. My dad had never been to Iguazú, so we decided to go together. Plane tickets were particularly cheap (about US$100); the hotel was not. The Tropical das Cataratas only had some sort of fancy deluxe room available for US$350, so we only went for one night.
At Aeroparque, we found out that our flight had been delayed for 2.5 hours. Not wanting to wait around and miss a day at the falls, my dad suggested that we try another airline. I leaped over to LAN Argentina and found two seats at $100 each for the next flight. After some negotiations, my dad arranged for Aerolíneas Argentinas to refund our tickets and issue boarding cards for the return flight.
We boarded a relatively beat-up 737-200 in an all-economy configuration. LAN didn’t seem much different from Aerolíneas Argentinas in terms of service, efficiency, etc. except that LAN left on time. My dad commented on the snazzy crew uniforms, complete with US flags for English-speakers.
A small snack of a “meat” sandwich and an alfajor was served, along with complimentary beer, wine, and other drinks.
We made a speedy arrival into Aeropuerto Internacional Puerto de Iguazú and hopped in a taxi for the hour-long ride to the Hotel Tropical das Cataratas. I could have sworn that the airport was once named after General Somebody.
The taxi drive involved an amusing stop at Brazilian customs. This required everyone to get out of the car and stomp on a wet antiseptic-laden doormat. As an epidemiologist, I fail to see the logic. But it was fun to watch.
Hotel Tropical das Cataratas
There are a few hotels in the world that I consider to be my favorites: The Norfolk Hotel Nairobi; The Hotel Russell, Sydney; The Charles Hotel at Harvard Square; and the Hotel Tropical Das Cataratas. When I mentioned the hotel my dad, he said “Ohhhh, we stayed at the Tropical in Manaus and it was amazing.”
My dad and I made numerous Boys from Brazil comments. "Where do they keep all the litttle Hitlers?" I asked.
Although I didn't come across any baby Hitlers, the visit did not let me down. The property is just beautiful: a pink mansion amid a view of 275 waterfalls. The grounds are immaculately maintained, the staff were pleasant, and the view was unbeatable.
How can I forget the elaborate breakfast served in a dining room overlooking the falls? I could sit by that pool for days… watching toucans and sipping a batida.
Of course we took many long walks along the paths down to the falls themselves. It’s like no other place on earth; photos do not do it justice.
15 April 2006
Aerolíneas Argentinas/Austral 2729
IGR-AEP
We returned to the Airport Formerly Known as General Somebody to find that Aerolíneas Argentinas had delayed our flight by six hours. Considering that I had an international connection out of Ezeiza, that wouldn’t really work. So I once again hopped over to LAN Argentina and bought two seats for $100 a pop while my dad took care of refunding the Aerolíneas Argentinas tickets.
We were asked to sign a mysterious “release” for passengers purchasing last-minute tickets. It said something about service and seat assignments. I didn’t quite understand it.
Boarding was almost catastrophic: there was a family of about 12 people from Spain, most of them under 10 years of age. There was much discussion about who would sit next to Nacho and what happened to Roberto. The cabin crew were as accommodating as possible, but they seemed a bit frustrated.
We managed to push back 10 minutes late; the captain announced that we would make up the time in flight.
The meaning of the “release” soon became evident: there weren’t enough meals loaded for last-minute passengers. This irritated my father; I can’t imagine why he would care about a lousy, cold sandwich. I guess it was just the idea. I didn’t mind and happily downed a Quilmes, thereby passing the time rather quickly.
We made a quick arrival into Aeroparque, where our bags were some of the first off the belt.
I then hopped into a taxi for Ezeiza. I was glad that I allowed enough time since traffic was thick. I felt deeply saddened as I said goodbye to Buenos Aires.
15April 2006
Continental 52
EZE-IAH
767-200ER
Ezeiza
I made my way to the Continental check-in, which was very crowded. I waited in the BusinessFirst line. A security agent saw me looking bored and opened up his own line for me. As usual for Ezeiza, he was young, cheery and unobtrusive. Just a few questions about my bags, that’s it. He did introduce himself as being from “Continental Security,” I had the overwhelming urge to ask, “So how come your ID tag says ‘Aviation Security’ instead of Continental?” But I decided that would get in me into trouble. I do find it really odd that they always introduce themselves as airline employees when they’re not.
Check-in was very quick. The BusinessFirst concierge, Pamela, made ID tags for my bags using my business cards. I thought that was cute.
I then waited forever at the only open “cambio” to switch my pesos into dollars. This was absolutely necessary because I needed the cash to pay the departure tax.
Security had about a 5 minute wait. I noted that anyone wearing a jacket was frisked, so I took mine off. No problem. I waltzed through, shoes on, no hassles. The security people were—as usual—smiling.
Another quick wait in the immigration line, where I was once again greeted with a pleasant smile by an older immigration officer.
Then the last stops: duty free and the tax-free refund line. The latter involved a long wait, but the staff were friendly and my paperwork was processed in a few seconds (other passengers weren’t quite as organized.)
I couldn’t find the BusinessFirst line for boarding, so I just found an available security person. He was friendly and wished me a pleasant flight.
Just to make life fun, I was pulled aside for additional inspection. Unlike the TSA, this turned out to be entirely benign. The security woman, Sandra, took a quick look through my carry-on and chatted with me the whole time. Her coworker, Nidia, ran a wand rather quickly around me and wished me a pleasant flight. No shoe inspection, no frisking. Can I just take Sandra and Nidia with me to every airport I go to and let them screen me?
After all of the hoops, I made my way on board the completely full 767-200ER. I was seated behind a large man in “Yogi” attire. He was headed to Tokyo. I was surrounded by mostly Americans and these were Americans with problems. One woman was absolutely livid that the other side of the aircraft received drinks and nuts first. Good grief.
The captain made a warm welcome speech, foregoing any threats about congregating near the restrooms. One of the captains took his crew rest seat, making pleasant conversation with passengers on the way.
The cabin crew were fantastic. One woman was as soothing as possible, assuring this woman that it would be a long flight, they would have plenty of time, and that she shouldn’t hesitate to ask for anything. I was more than a little impressed.
The only sore point of the crew was the purser, Ed B-----. Ed was—well—a stereotypical b----y American flight attendant: unsmiling with an unusual command of English. Ed made a lot of announcements that he must have practiced a lot at home. “We are pleased to offer refreshing Coca-Cola beverages here at Continental Airlines.” Oh zip it, Ed. His sincerity was about as genuine as his tan. (There’s my mean streak again.)
Fortunately, Ed was in the back of the plane. I was served by two nameless, but exceptionally pleasant cabin crew. They served every meal in perfect synchrony, smiling the whole time. They were often assisted by a younger, Colombian guy who was a similarly gracious host.
The proposed appetizer of shrimp was not offered, instead the offering was “smoked catfish.” The flight attendant read my face pretty well and we mutually decided that I would forego the appetizer. I once again opted for chicken, given the success on the outbound flight.
TO BEGIN
Warm roasted nuts
served with your preferred cocktail or beverage
LATE NIGHT SUPPER
APPETIZER SALAD
A contemporary blend of frisée, iceberg and red lettuce
with Chinese cabbage, green asparagus tips,
baby corn and red bell pepper strips
Offered with your choice of shallot and lemon dressing
or creamy herb dressing
For your enjoyment, chilled shrimp and smoked surubim
may be added to your salad
Freshly baked assorted rolls with butter
EXECUTIVE MEAL OPTION
If you should prefer more time to work or relax,
we suggest this complete meal presented all at once,
whenever you wish.
Appetizer Salad
A contemporary blend of frisée, iceberg and red lettuce
with Chinese cabbage, green asparagus tips,
baby corn and red bell pepper strips,
topped with chilled shrimp and smoked surubim
Offered with your choice of shallot and lemon dressing
or creamy herb dressing
Entree
Please choose your main course
from the entree selections featured on this menu
Chocolate
MAIN COURSES
The Chef’s Selection
Grilled sirloin steak with sautéed mushrooms
and herbes de Provence butter
Tomato Provençale Roasted vinaigrette potatoes
Seafood Moqueca
Accompanied by green beans with ginger,
red bell peppers and buttered broccoli
Rice with sesame seeds
Grilled Breast of Chicken
Complemented by barbecue sauce,
offered with buttered carrot sticks and green beans
Onion and potato soufflé topped with Boursin cheese
Sautéed red bell peppers Zucchini
Pasta Bowl
Mozzarella cheese cannelloni and ham and cheese cannelloni,
enhanced by pesto sauce, garnished wtih tomato concassée
Buttered spinach
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese will be offered with your pasta
Fresh steamed asparagus is available upon request
to accompany any entree
FRUIT AND CHEESE PLATE
Select cheeses accompanied by grapes and crackers,
served with Port wine
DESSERT CART
Featuring vanilla ice cream offered with your choice of toppings
or warm apple strudel topped with vanilla ice cream
Fresh Brew® gourmet roasted regular and decaffeinated coffee
made exclusively for Continental Airlines
Tea with your choice of milk or lemon Hot chocolate
Enjoy a cup of freshly brewed Emilio Caffè Italian Espresso or Cappuccino
available exclusively in BusinessFirst on our 777 and 767 aircraft.
BREAKFAST
Will be offered prior to arrival
Assorted chilled fruit juices or tomato juice
Fresh seasonal fruit
Freshly baked breads
including warm croissants, Danish pastries and sugar brioche
with butter and strawberry preserves
•••••
Omelette with Parsley
Accompanied by grilled veal cocktail sausage,
roesti potatoes and a cherry tomato
Selected Cereal
Served with milk, a banana and yogurt
•••••
Fresh Brew® gourmet roasted regular and decaffeinated coffee
made exclusively for Continental Airlines
Tea with your choice of milk or lemon Hot chocolate
Warm roasted nuts
served with your preferred cocktail or beverage
LATE NIGHT SUPPER
APPETIZER SALAD
A contemporary blend of frisée, iceberg and red lettuce
with Chinese cabbage, green asparagus tips,
baby corn and red bell pepper strips
Offered with your choice of shallot and lemon dressing
or creamy herb dressing
For your enjoyment, chilled shrimp and smoked surubim
may be added to your salad
Freshly baked assorted rolls with butter
EXECUTIVE MEAL OPTION
If you should prefer more time to work or relax,
we suggest this complete meal presented all at once,
whenever you wish.
Appetizer Salad
A contemporary blend of frisée, iceberg and red lettuce
with Chinese cabbage, green asparagus tips,
baby corn and red bell pepper strips,
topped with chilled shrimp and smoked surubim
Offered with your choice of shallot and lemon dressing
or creamy herb dressing
Entree
Please choose your main course
from the entree selections featured on this menu
Chocolate
MAIN COURSES
The Chef’s Selection
Grilled sirloin steak with sautéed mushrooms
and herbes de Provence butter
Tomato Provençale Roasted vinaigrette potatoes
Seafood Moqueca
Accompanied by green beans with ginger,
red bell peppers and buttered broccoli
Rice with sesame seeds
Grilled Breast of Chicken
Complemented by barbecue sauce,
offered with buttered carrot sticks and green beans
Onion and potato soufflé topped with Boursin cheese
Sautéed red bell peppers Zucchini
Pasta Bowl
Mozzarella cheese cannelloni and ham and cheese cannelloni,
enhanced by pesto sauce, garnished wtih tomato concassée
Buttered spinach
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese will be offered with your pasta
Fresh steamed asparagus is available upon request
to accompany any entree
FRUIT AND CHEESE PLATE
Select cheeses accompanied by grapes and crackers,
served with Port wine
DESSERT CART
Featuring vanilla ice cream offered with your choice of toppings
or warm apple strudel topped with vanilla ice cream
Fresh Brew® gourmet roasted regular and decaffeinated coffee
made exclusively for Continental Airlines
Tea with your choice of milk or lemon Hot chocolate
Enjoy a cup of freshly brewed Emilio Caffè Italian Espresso or Cappuccino
available exclusively in BusinessFirst on our 777 and 767 aircraft.
BREAKFAST
Will be offered prior to arrival
Assorted chilled fruit juices or tomato juice
Fresh seasonal fruit
Freshly baked breads
including warm croissants, Danish pastries and sugar brioche
with butter and strawberry preserves
•••••
Omelette with Parsley
Accompanied by grilled veal cocktail sausage,
roesti potatoes and a cherry tomato
Selected Cereal
Served with milk, a banana and yogurt
•••••
Fresh Brew® gourmet roasted regular and decaffeinated coffee
made exclusively for Continental Airlines
Tea with your choice of milk or lemon Hot chocolate
The catering was not as good. I don’t know if Continental caters these flights out of Houston or Buenos Aires, but it just wasn’t as good. The potato thing was kind of like Jell-O and the asparagus was overcooked.
I attempted to order an Argentine wine. “It must have been good,” the flight attendant said, “because they drank all of it before dinner on the way out.” I settled for the syrah, RH Philips EXP Syrah 2000, which was actually really good.
The bread was once again barely warmed. My belief is that the US carriers should serve the bread out of foil. It’s not as classy as the baskets, but the bread might stay warmer. I also think Continental did better when they had actual loaves of bread. They haven’t had those in a while.
I was once again a slow-learner, opting for the non-sundae dessert. It was a cold, not very good strudel. I should have known.
During and after dinner I watched The Family Stone which was not very good, but it passed the time.
The most demanding woman had multiple issues relating to her food, how to operate the video system, and so on. She also expected the cabin crew to explain what the movies were about. To my surprise, the crew were obliging and talked her through everything.
The Yogi was similarly high-maintenance; I think he actually made a pass at the Colombian flight attendant. One really sharp crew member told him how she was going to make him a special meal out of vegetarian cannelloni “because it’s so good.” Of course she was actually saying, “They didn’t load your @#$! vegetarian meal, sir.” But the Yogi didn’t catch on and seemed to think that he was getting a good deal.
I fell asleep somewhere over Paraguay and awoke over Cancún to the sound of clinking glasses. That was probably the best night’s sleep I’ve ever had on an airplane. This goes back to my theory that there is less jetlag on longer flights because you can sleep longer.
Breakfast consisted of a puke-green omelet, which I ate anyway. The coffee and croissants were very good.
Before landing, I took a moment to compliment the two BusinessFirst cabin crew for handling such difficult people with aplomb. They were both flattered and acknowledged that they were frustrated too. “I didn’t know what to do.” she said, “Was I supposed to be funny? Apologetic? I couldn’t figure out what they wanted.” One had been flying for 34 years, the other for just seven. Continental should be really proud to have these people on board; they really worked well together in a challenging environment.
I couldn’t really tell that we were landing because the shades were all down (a bad idea, if you ask me.) But we made a quick taxi to the gate.
Houston
After the usual long walk to immigration, there was no line. A disinterested agent asked how long I was gone and sent me on my way.
Bags were a little slow, but I was also one of the first off the plane. That gave me more time to listen to appalling announcements about how I would be arrested for “inappropriate comments” and how my belongings will be “confiscated.” Home sweet home.
I walked through customs without any questions and dropped my bag off at the connections desk.
Then another 15 minute wait for our chums at the TSA. Houston featured 100% mandatory shoe removal, except for off-duty crewmembers, airport employees, and the TSA themselves. I’m so glad that they’re consistent and sensible.
There was some chatter about my laptop batteries, which involved a grumbling woman and an explosive detector. Actually, it may not have been a woman but possibly a cyborg. I’m not sure.
At least the fairly new President’s Club was awesome. Barb Swartz (I think) was the name of the woman at the desk. We chatted a bit, then I made my way upstairs for a shower.
Although nothing glamorous, the shower felt good and the gentleman handling the shower facilities was smiling and eager to help me (not help me shower, presumably.)
I grabbed some coffee, juice, and a doughnut (okay two doughnuts), checked my email, and then headed off to the gate.
16 April 2006
Continental 544
IAH-CLE
737-500
My stepmother was actually on this flight, en route from Rio back to Cleveland. Her seat was in economy. We had talked at length prior to the trip about if I was expected to give my seat to her. After negotiations, it was determined that I would stay in first class, since I had paid for the upgrade for that flight and she was relying on an Elite upgrade that didn’t happen.
Although it’s a bit of a blur, this flight was fine. I had some palatable coffee, cereal, and a really good fruit plate (good mangoes) and read the paper. The cabin crew were not so good, but the flight from Buenos Aires was a tough act to follow. They did their jobs, but they were nothing to write home about.
Cleveland
I walked with my stepmother out to the end of the concourse, and we sat down for a bit. This gave us the unpleasant opportunity to watch the TSA at work. It was one grandmother after the next getting secondary treatment. Cleveland was actually the only airport on the whole trip where I saw a lot of this.
My stepmother grew up in a military dictatorship, so she’s especially sensitive about such matters. It was painful to watch these women in their 60’s and 70’s with their arms spread apart, having an unsmiling guard grasp up and down their arms and legs. The system has got to change.
6 April 2006
Continental Express 2522
CLE-CMH
ERJ-135
After saying goodbye to my stepmother, I made the seemingly endless walk back to the D concourse, where my gate was the very last one. Fortunately, I ran into an old colleague at the gate, so we chatted for a while.
The flight to Columbus was mercifully brief and actually kind of pleasant. I enjoyed watching our progress, attempting to identify landmarks, and so on. The flight attendant, Jill, was warm and wished everyone a happy Easter.
I do hate disembarkation of Continental Express flights at Columbus. They do not open the cabin door until the gate check cart is loaded and pulled up to the door. This always seems to take forever, but I suppose it is to prevent passengers from lingering on the tarmac while waiting for their bags. But for those of us with no gate checked bags, it’s more than a little irritating.
One of my friends was waiting for me by the entrance to the baggage claim and my bag was one of the first to come off the belt. I was home within 25 minutes of landing.
Concluding remarks
Continental Airlines
For the most part, a very good experience. They are not Air France, but they have some excellent crews, decent food, and the best business class seat of any US carrier. My only recommendations are: 1. Glitzier cosmetics in the clubs and the aircraft restrooms 2. Warmer bread.
Aerolíneas Argentinas
Uh-oh. I don’t know what was happening there. I had previously had very good experiences with them, but the delays were a mess. They also certainly lost points in terms of their catering from Rio to Buenos Aires. That was pretty sad. I’ll wait until they have their act together before flying with them again.
LAN Argentina
Saved the day. Twice. They had efficient, punctual service. They certainly gave Aerolíneas Argentinas a run for their money.
Hotel Reconquista Plaza, Buenos Aires
Still a good choice. No longer a phenomenal bargain, but it’s still not bad. The staff are still excellent.
Hotel Tropical das Cataratas
If you haven’t gone, go!
Last edited by Mats; Apr 26, 2006 at 5:49 am
Apr 26, 2006, 2:38 pm
#2
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Tulsa OK USA
Programs: AA PLT
Posts: 620
Nice report. I want to go to Buenos Aires, but my husband visited there in the early 1980's and is prejudiced against it. So I am working on him. Things change a lot in 20 years.
I am going to find that book for my son who loves history.
I am going to find that book for my son who loves history.
Apr 26, 2006, 6:27 pm
#4
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Houston, Texas
Programs: CO Silver
Posts: 2,600
I don’t know if Continental caters these flights out of Houston or Buenos Aires, but it just wasn’t as good. The potato thing was kind of like Jell-O and the asparagus was overcooked.
I have taken the GIG/GRU flights several times in BF and look forward to taking the EZE flight soon. Thanks for the report.
Apr 26, 2006, 9:50 pm
#5
FlyerTalk Evangelist
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: East Ester, Alaska
Programs: Alaska Million Miler, United Million Miler, Wyndham Rewards Diamond, Choice Hotels Diamond
Posts: 12,148
A thoroughly enjoyable read, Mats. I wholeheartedly concur with your sentiments regarding BA. A wonderful city and a country I yearn to go back to soon. Perhaps it's time to check out CO's BF award down there. The food looks good and I agree - CO's Business First seats are hard to beat! Certainly better than anything AA or DL offer, though I do rather like UA's 777 J Class seats.
Apr 27, 2006, 9:22 am
#6
Join Date: May 2005
Location: London, England, United Kingdom
Programs: Marriott (Lifetime Titantium), whatever other programs as benefits make sense.
Posts: 1,921
Great report!
I was interested to see that you thought Rio was "falling apart" and the you loved B.A. I've never been to Rio, but when I was in B.A. I thought it was "falling apart." Is Rio worse than B.A.? I liked B.A., but thought it looked like it was sliding when I was back there in 2003.
I was interested to see that you thought Rio was "falling apart" and the you loved B.A. I've never been to Rio, but when I was in B.A. I thought it was "falling apart." Is Rio worse than B.A.? I liked B.A., but thought it looked like it was sliding when I was back there in 2003.
Apr 27, 2006, 10:25 am
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Arizona, USA
Posts: 2,403
I actually thought Buenos Aires looked better than last time I was there. Sure there are parts that are tired, but a lot of it looked pretty good. Rio has a lot of abandoned buildings that give the air of--well--"crumbling."
Apr 27, 2006, 5:36 pm
#8
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: SAN
Programs: DL GM
Posts: 54
Loved this report -- great humor.
And what IS the deal with CMH's TSA people? I fly out of there fairly often and am always amazed at the odd combo of disinterest and fiercity, as you described.
Other FTers have noted CMH for that, too.
And what IS the deal with CMH's TSA people? I fly out of there fairly often and am always amazed at the odd combo of disinterest and fiercity, as you described.
Other FTers have noted CMH for that, too.