techgirl

Squeeeeeee!!!!! Oh, my favorite part. You never fail to delight, Mike.

(Must find time today to book my next Paris trip... I've been away far too long.)

PresRDC

I must say, this is one of the best reports I've read here. You are a great writer. Thanks.

magexpect

It was a real pleasure to read your report (what a ghastly name to resume this masterpiece)

You made me laugh so much with that $ 80.- breakfast that I spilled my coffe all over the table...

I am sure you are going to return to Paris or Rome one of these days and I'd be more than happy to offer you one of those breakfasts, so just PM me when you are going again.

You are a true European, an example for all Americans who travel.

Merci.

Tim2008

Fabulous trip report. Enjoyed reading every part of it!

mwp2paris

Our Days and Nights in Paris

Saturday, It is Decided We Will Do the Louvre

The next morning, I awoke early and descended for my now rather luxurious routine…spa-ing without a care in the world. After an hour, I ascended to find Mrs. Paris on her hands and knees searching for a plug for her hair curler. Seems that the designers of the Park Hyatt declared visible and easily accessible outlets to be unsightly, so they hid a “razor only” outlet under the bathroom counter, placed two in a very awkward recessed area at the back of the desk, and finally, placed a very well camouflaged one right at the carpet line, neatly tucked behind the sitting chair between the 2 French doors. One would think one should not have to search so hard on one’s hands and knees to locate a power source in a Five Star hotel.

Form over function, I believe they would call that.

Once that near crisis had been averted (if Mrs. Paris can’t curl her hair, things tend to deteriorate rather quickly) we dressed and went down to the lobby to enjoy breakfast.

Here, the 30.00 Euro/person Deluxe Continental breakfast was, indeed, included in our rate which was nothing since we’re here on 4 Hyatt Faster Free Night awards. The buffet was very nicely arranged and deliciously presented and it featured fresh and dried fruits, a variety of cereals, meats, smoked salmon, cheeses, and a selection of flaky pastries. The attentive staff kept our coffees topped off and offered to fetch us the juice of our choice. You could upgrade to an egg dish for a surcharge of ten Euros.

It was Saturday, and so we decided that it would be the perfect day to walk through the Jardin des Tuilleries. We bundled up in our warmest black, stylishly encircled our necks with scarves (I love wearing a scarf…MCI isn’t much of a male-scarf city) and headed out into the ominously gray and breathtakingly cold late morning. We scurried down Rue de La Paix, across Rue de Rivoli, and through the ornate gates into the Tuilleries.

There were some people milling about the gardens, though not nearly as many as you would see on a warm and pleasant spring day. I first met Paris when it was cold and the trees leafless and sentinel-like in their stance and that is how I always think of her. Our pace started as slow and reflective, but as the wind and the cold began to take their toll, our steps quickened and soon we were in the vast and inspiring courtyard of the Louvre. We looked at each other, nodded in silent agreement, and placed ourselves in the entrance que.

Ah, the Louvre. We descended into the vast and impressive grand foyer and convinced a self-service kiosk to accept our Visa and it finally relinquished two tickets. We picked up a guide in English though we really didn’t need one since we have been here many times and know just where we like to go and headed off for our traditional first stop.

Every time I wind around the various hallways and turn that last corner and look up at that vast and imposing staircase towards the magnificent Winged Victory I just so want Audrey Hepburn to come bounding out from behind and drift down the stairs, that blood red dress billowing out behind her like that priceless scene in the Gershwin classic Funny Face. I am always tempted to try a re-creation of that scene with Mrs. Paris, but she continually allows her Southern refinement and restraint to keep me from committing such a silly act. We slowly mounted the stairs and when we had arrived, circled “Winged Victory” and once again marveled at her quiet grandeur.

Mrs. Paris had been reading The Passion of Artemisia by Susan Vreeland which is the fictionalized story of an actual female Italian painter and so we headed off to see if any of her paintings were hanging at the Louvre. Unfortunately, either they aren’t or we didn’t see them, though we did find several by her father. We popped in to see that icon Mona Lisa and she is still smirking at all the people who are pressing close to her and snapping her picture without her permission.

My one disappointment was that the corridor where the huge, highly testosterone-charged paintings by David hang and my absolute favorite of all paintings, The Raft of the Medusa by Gericault is located, was closed for rearrangement or something. Oh bother, yet as though I needed one, this became my excuse to already begin plotting my return trip! If you have ever been to Cimitiere du Père Lachaise, this awe-inspiring and very moving painting is recreated in bronze on Gericault's tomb.

We did find a room that was preserved from the original palace that had been recently refurbished and was now open to the public. It was up and behind Winged Victory and was one of those long and gilded galleries where every inch of space was covered in some kind of art. There were also jewels from the Aristocracy on display which were truly amazing…"was that really a 400-carat Aquamarine?" And the size of those diamonds…well…one could lose their head over conspicuous consumption such as that!

We walked and walked and looked and looked then my brain started hurting from all the beauty and so we decided to exit the Louvre and find lunch. Unfortunately, we arrived too late at Le Relais de l’Entrecote just around the corner from Le Deux Magot so we walked down Blvd St. Germain and then turned left on one of my favorite streets in Paris…Rue de Bac. We window shopped in the lovely antique stores, stopped and took in the amazing collection of fine champagnes and digestives in the wine store, looked with loving remembrance at the entrance to Hotel Du Nevers then finally arrived at Bon Marché and its wonderful La Grande Epicerie de Paris food market. I liked it better before they redid it a few years ago but it still has an amazing supply of yummies both practical and luxurious. The seafood selection alone makes me want to buy a Parisian flat with kitchen just so I could saute’ up some skate wing in butter sauce with lemon and capers.

We purchased cheese, salami, olives, water, Kronenbourg 1664, wine and a few other things to make a wonderful late afternoon snack then scurried back to our hotel and had le piknik right there in our room.

It was decided that since we had missed Le Relais de l’Entrecote for lunch, we would dine there for dinner. Louvre recovery naps were taken, a short stint in the sauna and hammam worked its restorative powers, and before long we headed back to the Metro and wound over to St.-Germain des Pres.

We discovered Le Relais de l’Entrecote the summer we were in Paris and watched Lance Armstrong win one of his Tours while sipping pastis at the wonderful café right at the corner of Champs Elysees and Ave. George V. It is the epitome of the idea that if you are only going to serve one thing, serve it very well…and they do.

By the time we arrived at the restaurant, there was a light rain falling so we crowded up under the small canopy and waited our for our table.

L’Entrecote’s one and only entrée is to die for…Steak frite. First comes a salad followed by yummy and tender slices of hanger steak cooked to your specifications but why would you order it any other way than medium rare; the most perfect frites which are an art unto themselves; and a creamy, buttery sauce ripe with the heady licorice aromas of tarragon.

There is just so much energy in a Paris restaurant at the height of the dinner service. L’Entrecote was packed with large groups, families, couples out together, and couples like us enjoying each other all having a wonderful time. All the individual conversations, most fueled by ample servings of wine and good humor, combine to create a wonderful cacophony of good cheer and Epicurean delight. The waitresses are dressed in the traditional black dress with a white apron and ours had the appropriate frown and yet you know she had a heart of gold by the way she cussed when she dropped an empty glass while clearing the table next to us…just endearing.

They serve the entrée in such a way that you actually get 2 servings and you want more but then realize that they have Irish coffee on the menu so lap up the last drops of the sauce with a piece of bread and order one. Throw in a bottle of house wine, and 65.15 Euro later, you leave sassy and full.

Now the light rain was really coming down so we scurried back to the Metro and soon were in our delightful room at the Park Hyatt. I decided that I would like to check my e-mail but the in-room wired access was completely uncooperative so I announced to Mrs. Paris that I was going to retire to the hotel lobby where the access was wireless. Of course, this meant that I would have to take a seat in the wonderful bar and watch the comings and goings until much too late. Again, I was completely in awe of the drink prices…here a cosmo sets you back nearly $30.00 USD…but it was good! I surfed the net then finally paid my tab and ascended to bed.

It is unfortunate that, according to what I read over on the FT Hyatt Board, the Park Hyatt is now charging for their internet access. When we were there it was free. I felt almost naughty using the service knowing that somewhere, someone was paying some ridiculous price to do what I was doing for free. But alas, now it appears to be 19 Euro/day though there are 2 free PCs (one laptop, one desktop) in the Business Center just off the Front Desk.

The Sunday When Mr. and Mrs. Paris Enjoy Quite the Hamburger!

Sunday morning came cold and windy. We slept in then enjoyed the lovely breakfast before we bundled up against the cold and headed out, but not before being politely and refinely greated by the unfailingly attractive bell staff. Mrs. Paris had a work colleague who had given her a very specific Hard Rock Café, Paris pin request so we decided to walk over there and get it. We circled l’Opera, noticed that both Printemps and Les Galaries Lafayette were closed on Sunday but then did manage to find the Paris Hard Rock and purchase the pin which features a rendering of the Eiffel Tower although its image has been morphed to look like it is a guitar. We passed a Starbucks and a McDonalds right next door and rolled our eyes but then decided that the only cure to so much exposure to the Americanization of the world was to have lunch on the terrace at Café de la Paix.

We entered this beautiful space and were quickly escorted to a table for two. The joint was hopping and I particularly enjoyed watching a couple slurp down an entire fruit de mer platter. Looked yummy.

As we chatted away, I thought of my dear friend and wonderful traveling partner from Sacramento who loves the Café de la Paix and I’m sure spent many a wonderful evening here back in the day. It may be time for her return and, knowing her, she will no doubt be recognized and greeted profusely by the wait staff as she enters even though it has been years since she has been here. I took a cocktail napkin to send to her just to whet her appetite.

Half the fun of dining out is to watch others. I call this being an observer of life and my fellow humans, Mrs. Paris says I'm just nosy. Well, either way, I was not disapointed here. On one side of us were two Brits...he lived in Paris and had some rather important sounding job and she had come down from London for a weekend visit. He obviously was in the courting mode and had decided that the way to win her heart was to order one of nearly everything and create a tasting buffet right there on their little table. At the next table over, the Parisian ladies of a certain age who lunch while clad in their classic Channel and furs filled the air with their cheek kisses and hugs as each member of their party arrived. On the other side there was a fiery little Latin couple who engaged in quite the passionate conversation ripe with lots of dramatic hand motions between sips of wine. Damn, I wish I would have studied more in high school Spanish.

For my part, I ordered the French onion soup and Mrs. Paris decided that soup was the entrée of the day so she also ordered the soup . A couple glasses of wine, the classic Mille-Feuille for dessert, a few coffees to warm us for the cold outside and we were ready to return to our room for a nap.

As evening began to settle in we decided to take a walk down through the Place de Vendome, up Rue de Rivoli towards the Place Concorde and then wandered into the Hotel Crillon where they also have their own signature perfume that is piped through the air system. The hotel is beautiful and the flower arrangements were lovely. We left and circled around and then finally arrived back to our hotel.

Upon our return, where once again we were politely and refinely greeted, we decided to sit in the Lobby near the fireplace and watch the comings and goings at the Park Hyatt. After watching what movers and shakers there were to see, the evening began growing late and we retired early to our room. At some point, and for no other reason than we could, it was decided that there was only one thing to do on a cold and blustery Sunday night in Paris…order the 30.00 Euro hamburger from Room Service, accompanied by an extra order of frites and a little chocolate tart for dessert.

Well, it was a good burger but I have to admit, the frites left something to desire…not bad, but I have made better. But we munched away, sipping on the Kronenbourg and wine that was left over from our shopping trip the day before.

Finally, the wine, the chocolate and the late hour worked their wonders and we slipped off to peaceful slumber.

Monday, a Cathedral, and the Last Supper

The next morning, which was our last full day in Paris, we repeated our same routine then decided we would make Notre-Dame de Paris and Ile St. Louis our primary focus.

To try to describe Notre-Dame de Paris is to try to describe the face of God. Yes, it is magnificent; yes, it is overwhelming; yes, you are in silent awe as you slowly walk around this amazing, divine space. You cannot help but feel the breath of God on your neck as you gaze up at the rose windows. I really wanted to climb up to the bell tower but it was so frick’n cold that we scurried on towards Ile St. Louis. We passed the wonderful Café right as you come off the bridge from Ile de la Cite’ where we spent a rather raucous night with my traveling friends from DFW eating choucoutre and drinking too much wine a few years ago. On that particular evening I ordered the cheese course for dessert and it featured a rather odorously ripe cheese, which I loved but one of my DFW friends labeled fromage de toilet which has become one of those classic phrases we just have to mention to cause nostalgic laughter to begin.

We pranced down the narrow main street to the end of the island and turned and walked across the Seine to the Left Bank. I wanted to find Shakespeare & Co. Bookstore to see if Julie Delpy and Ethan Hawke might be still hanging around from Before Sunset but somehow we missed it and it was so cold we just scurried on in search of some place for lunch. Even in the cold though, there were a few of the book vendors out, peddling their wares along the Seine. I just love that this tradition continues and felt bad that I didn’t stop and buy an old copy of Life Magazine. We wandered through some of the narrow Left Bank streets then finally arrived in the Latin Quarter close to the Sorbonne. We passed several lunch possibilities which we passed by and then, as luck would have it, happened upon an outpost of Léon de Bruxelles, where we sat and enjoyed their yummy take on moules frites accompanied by a Belgian ale or two.

We hopped the Metro and returned to Opera and headed for Galaries Lafayette to do some shopping. Mrs. Paris was buying for the Paris offspring and so I excused myself and said I wanted to check out the kitchenware which is now in a different store. What with the pitiful US$ exchange rate, shopping quickly grew depressing so I exited and made my way to the front of the Opera where I entered and perused the little gift shop, tried to sneak a peak at the sumptuous Grand Lobby and then returned to the hotel for a late afternoon campari and soda in the bar.

For our last evening in Paris, we just couldn’t decide where to go…L’Oulette which is just wonderful, Les Ministeries on Rue de Bac which serves killer soupe de poisson and a tender skate wing, or some untried place. We opted for the little seafood bistro near the Seine end of Ave. George V. There are actually three places here and my impression is they are all connected somehow. On the corner is a properly terraced café which overlooks the Seine and the twinkling Eiffel Tower. This is where the seafood is prepared and it is fun to sit and watch the waiters run huge fruit de mer platters up to the other two places. Next door is the more upscale Le Bistro de Marius restaurant were I had a most delectible tuna served in a sauce full of capers, butter and little chunks of lemon…happy, happy palate that night, especially considering the oysters I had started with.

Next door to the restaurant is the charming, nautically themed Marius et Janette bistro where we were to dine this evening. It was not too busy and we were quickly escorted to our table where we would eat our last dinner in Paris. As we looked over the menu, we sipped on our celebratory Kir Royales. I decided to just go for it and ordered a mini fruit de mer that came with oysters, clams, shrimp, cockles, mussels, and crab legs…I was in shellfish heaven and thanked my Maker that I had so far not developed allergies to this sublime food.

Mrs. Paris had one of her favorites…traditional fish soup served with shredded cheese, croutons, and a garlic aioli to embellish it with. I, of course, snuck some cheese and aioli to embellish my bread.

For an entrée I ordered red snapper that was served whole. It had been stuffed with rosemary and encrusted with seasalt then roasted in the oven. Oh my was it tasty. I will be re-creating this marriage of flavors this summer on my Weber. Mrs. Paris selected a delicate tuna filet. Both entrees were served with a yummy whipped potato which I devoured but Mrs. Paris found to be a bit on the bland side.

A few carafes of the house white wine and 2 cafés and we were ready for the final act…Laduree and their amazing hot chocolate.

We walked arm-in-arm up Ave. George V., turned down Champs Elysees and entered this temple of all that is sweet and chocolate. We were seated at a lovely window table where we could watch the traffic on this most famous of streets. The dessert menu here is truly just amazing…I decided to spring for ice cream…a scoop of dark chocolate, a scoop of pistachio, and a scoop of red currant sorbet melded well with the thick and rich hot chocolate.

We stepped outside and lingered a moment looking up at the Arch de Triumph, then slowly made our way to the George V Metro station for our last ride back to our hotel.

We would have to be up early in the morning for our departure the next day so we sat for a final few minutes in the Lobby basking in the glow of the lovely fireplace, then ascended for our last night in Paris.

A Return to Reality

Departure day arrived still freezing but with the sun shining through thick and broken clouds. I stood on my little terrace and watched Parisians scurry through the cold on their way to work then stepped in to finish packing. We descended for breakfast where, evidently, some semi-official government officials were holding a semi-important breakfast meeting given the number of guards with little ear pieces standing around and watching my every move. I feared that perhaps I had crossed the line on how many pan au chocolat one is allowed and one more would see me tazored. Several semi-official officials in various military uniforms breezed in and were greeted and cheek kissed by semi-official officials in civilian suits then they all sat and perhaps worked out the plan for world peace...I wasn't sure so I helped myself to more smoked salmon.

We fetched our luggage and made our way out to the taxi that I had had one of the trim and attractive door attendants arrange for us.

We slipped away from the Park Hyatt Vendome and I looked over my shoulder as we sped away. Despite the fact that it is nearly impossible to find a suitable electric outlet and that for some unknown reason, dirty glasses are never collected nor replaced without a special request, it truly is a wonderful hotel that I would return to again. I do wish Hyatt would open a location on the Left Bank though because I do believe that is where my heart is most at home when I am in Paris.

The traffic, despite the hour, was very cooperative and before long we were pulling up to the iconic round terminal at CDG. Poor signage did cause me to trudge quite the wrong way for a few minutes but I managed to correct my course and finally was able to deposit Mrs. Paris and myself in the UA FC check-in line. The scrutiny matron did her best to trip us up with her silly questions about when we bought our luggage and did we have any battery powered devices and was I a boxer or brief type but we somehow managed to keep our wits and secrets intact and were finally granted admission to the counter where our FC boarding passes were secured and our luggage properly outfitted yet again with the brightly colored “save the best for last” premium service tags.

We made our way up and did a little duty freeing then headed over to the UA FC departures lounge where a very friendly agent greeted us and welcomed us in. I fixed a beverage of vodka and apple juice and Mrs. Paris decided she needed to liberate some more duty so off she went, credit card in hand.

I chatted with the agent about the weather situation and inquired if they had experienced any flight disruptions during the recent storm and she said not really though she had heard US had to cancel a flight to PHL which, given the situation at PHL on a good day, came as no surprise.

Soon, Mrs. Paris returned with a bag of goodies for the offspring and I refreshed my beverage and then it was time to head out and clear security where I was intimately patted down by a rather nice looking individual who I thought should have at least offered me a drink first but I wasn’t sure he would find that as humorous as I thought it was so, again applying a bit of good judgement and common sense, decided to keep my mouth shut and just enjoy the rub down.

Upon boarding this UA 767, it was immediately apparent that we were not on LH…tired looking seats, rather worn looking cabin but at least the FAs were smiling and that, in my experience, always sets the mood for an enjoyable flight.

We were offered a glass of champagne with the promise that the good stuff would be out after takeoff. There was only 1 other customer in FC not counting the cockpit person who snoozed away behind us.

I have again provided both the First Class and Business Class menus here for those who are interested…

First Class Menu


To Begin

Join us in a sampling of appetizers:

Hot zucchini parcel filled with goat cheese and a tomato coulis
Smoked salmon parcels
Black Forest ham and mozzarella canape’
Pine nut pesto sauce

Salad

Fresh seasonal greens with tomatoes and croutons
Hot Chinese-style sliced breast of duck
Creamy garlic or Athena feta cheese dressing

Main Course

Filet mignon with carmaelized onion and stone-ground mustard sauce

Breast of corn-fed chicken with boletus mushroom cream sauce

The above entrees include your choice of:
Polenta with spring onions or Lyonnaise potatoes
Glazed carrot with parsley or broccoli florets and red pepper batonnets

Lamb cutlet with a garlic herb crust and lamb just with balsamic vinegar
Pereronata and a zucchini and potato galette

Spinach Gorgonzola cannelloni with Parmesian cheese
Your choice of Parmesan cream or herb tomato sauce

Dessert

International cheese selection
Camembert, Beaufort and Pont-L’Eveque cheese

Haagen-Dazs ice cream with sundae toppings

Warm crème brulee with coconut and mango

Fresh seasonal fruit

Prior to Arrival

Fresh seasonal fruit appetizer

Spinach and smoked chicken brushetta with Lyonnaise potatoes
Crème Fraiche with arugula

Or

Chilled deli plate with tomato chili relish
Gravlax salmon, salami, and pastrami with Tilsiter cheese
A low carbohydrate alternative

Featured Wines

Champagne

Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque 1996
Laurent-Perrier Brut Millesime 1996

White WIne

Joseph Drouhin Rully 2002, Chardonnay
Leon Beyer Alsace Tokay 2002, Pinot Gris
Kirralaa Southeast Australia Chardonnay 2003
Wente Vineyards Chardonnay Reserve Riva Ranch 2002

Red WIne

Sacha Lichini Nuits-St-Georges 2001, Pinot Noir
Reserve de la comtessa Pauillac 1997, Bordeaux Blend
Foley Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir

Beverages

Aperitifs and cocktails
Spirits and liqueurs
Beer
Sandeman’s Porto will be offered during the main meal’s dessert.
Starbucks coffee will be available throughout the flight.


Business Class Menu

To Begin

Smoked salmon and Black Forest ham with mozzarella canapé
Pine nut pesto sauce

Fresh seasonal greens
Athena feta cheese or creamy garlic dressing

Main Courses

Filet mignon with onion and stone-ground mustard sauce
Lyonnaise potatoes and glazed carrots with parsley

Lamb cutlet with garlic herb crust and peperonata
Zucchini and potato galette and lamb jus with balsamic vinegar

Spinach Gorgonzola cannelloni with shredded Parmesan cheese
Creamy Parmesan sauce

Dessert

International cheese selection
Camembert and Beaufort cheese

Haagan-Dazs ice cream

Prior to Arrival

Spinach and smoked chicken brushetta
Lyonnaise potatoes and Crème Fraiche with arugula

Or

Chilled deli plate with tomato chili relish
Gravlax salmon, salami, and pastrami with Tilsiter cheese


Featured Wines

Champagne

Baron-Fuente’
De Venoge Brut Select Cordon Bleu NV

White WIne

Dopff & Irion Alsace 2002, Pinot Blanc
Jean-Luc Colombo Cotes du Rhone Les Abeilles 2002
Van Loveren Roberson Riesling 2003
Kenwood Yulupa California Chardonnay 2003

Red WIne

Robert Skalli Minervois 2003
Chateau du Grand Canmont Corbieres 2001, Cuvee Speciale
Areiero Novella Estate Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon
Paso de Luz San Rafael Cabernet Sauvignon 2002

Beverages

Aperitifs, cocktails, spirits, liqueurs, and beer
Sandeman’s Porto will be offered during the main meal’s dessert.
Starbuck’s coffee will be available throughout the flight.

On LH, the FC menu and the BC menu were very different…here they were nearly the same except for perhaps slightly less choice in BC. The food was alright, but it just wasn’t as refined in appearance or taste as what we had so enjoyed on LH. And in what universe does hot Chinese-style duck go with those two salad dressing choices that were offered? A slightly jarring juxtaposition of flavors and cultures.

Fortunately, the service was very attentive and friendly and the flight passed quickly…I watched a few movies on the in-seat video and since the FA placed the suitcase of movie cassettes just across the aisle, I didn’t even have to get up to make a choice.

To be honest, I really don’t remember that much from this flight…lunch was served, we sat for a while, the snack was served, we sat for a while, then we were making a long slow decent into ORD and then landed and deplaned into the International Terminal where we didn’t have to make too long of a walk to Immigration and Customs where we made it through without any hassles then we were on the train over to the UA Terminal, sprinted through scrutiny with our shoes off, then plopped into the UA First Class Lounge where I decided that I needed to shower.

I fixed a drink and headed over to the shower area where the very funny and polite attendant said that I was on my own if I dropped my glass and cut my foot because he was not trained in suturing wounds. The showers themselves are very nicely appointed, complete with a more-than-adequate amenities kit. I think these showers are much better than the ones I’m used to over at the ORD AA Admiral's Club but I do love the rain shower and side shooting heads that the DFW AA AC showers feature. I shaved and scrubbed and exfoliated and did what I could do with what I’ve got to prepare for the last flight home.

Feeling mildly refreshed, I reappeared and fixed a small plate of nibbles and refreshed my beverage. We sat a few more minutes then it was time to make our way down to our MCI flight. The tired little 737 made it just fine. I don't remember much about this flight either probably because I have flown ORD-MCI a thousand times, although according to Mrs. Paris, I slept the entire way and that is why I don't remember anything. Whatever. We deplaned to find that our luggage came up rather quickly despite the presence of Premium Service Tags and we stepped out to a cool Kansas City evening where within seconds, the middle Paris offspring came charging up in her little vehicle and slowed just enough to allow us to toss our stuff and ourselves in. As any sixteen-year old would be, she was slightly miffed that she had to come all the way out to MCI to fetch her parents but I know in her heart she was glad we were home. She started the meter and we roared south towards Casa de Paris.

Lessons learned and suggestions offered:

Lufthansa Airlines First Class is a benchmark experience that will be fondly remembered for years. Cash in 100,000 miles per ticket and just do it.

There are cheaper ways to get from FCO to the center of Roma, but none more luxurious than in a Mercedes…but, lesson learned, we will take the train next time.

Never, ever let 4-foot tall gyspy women clutching fake babies surround you when walking through a flea market in Roma…no good can come of this.

The more I think about my time in Roma, the more I realize how much I love that city…and look forward to being back.

If a dignified gentleman nicely dressed and sporting a lovely tan cashmire overcoat approaches you on the Via Veneto and invites you to “just come look at the menu” at the restaurant he operates with his father, go…the meal will be wonderful.

Artesia, the night train from Rome to Paris, is delightful but it is probably better to actually sleep and not chat the night away with interesting people from all over the world including Little Rock…or so Mrs. Paris tells me.

At least one day in Roma and Paris, just leave your hotel and your guide book behind and walk with no plan other than to see what there is to see. These unplanned sojourns will always turn into little voyages of delite and discovery.

If at all possible, dine at Thoumieux and enjoy the cassoulet…it is to die for.

Always linger one minute longer when looking at any site in Paris...you will not regret it when you return home.



In conclusion…

Love, laugh, live…we only dance across this great green orb once…life is a buffet and most poor suckers are starving to death so eat up my friends because there are no seconds!

Ciao bella, indeed.

sarah615

What a wonderful, wonderful trip. You and your wife are both very lucky to have one another.

techgirl

Oh, bravo BRAVO! Thank you so much for sharing Paris with me again.

Congratulations on twenty happy years together.

And thank you for bringing back another memory of that wonderful autumn night with friends... I will always cherish the thoughts of walking arm-in-arm with the five of you that evening. It is one of my fondest travel moments and Paris will never be quite the same for me because of it.

mad_atta

Fabulous stuff - a joy to read from start to finish. Your evident delight in every detail shines right through. ^

I was glad to see that you meandered along the charming main street of the Ile St. Louis, which is my favourite Paris stroll (probably because it's the first thing we did on my first trip to Paris - on a gorgeous early summer day it took us most of the day to walk that small distance, including obligatory stops for coffee, drinks, shopping and a long lunch).

Already hoping for another mwp2paris adventure - even if it's just a mundane trip, I'm sure you'll do what you can do with what you’ve got!

airoli

Reading this report of yours was pure pleasure, thank you so much for giving me a lovely start into the new week! it is good to see that you and your wife enjoy travelling with an open mind and an open heart.

I'll be dreaming of having nice espressi at a Rome bar for a while now!

luxury

OK!! That's it..... I can't take it anymore!! I am going to buy Eurostar tickets to Paris for this weekend!!!

Oh yeah, I forgot, I am returning home to Canada this weekend.... merde

Seriously though, thank you for such a wonderful trip report -- I can imagine myself being there with you as the scenes you describe bring back memories of my own.

Congratulations on your 20th Anniversary. My grandparents were able to enjoy 60 years of marriage -- may you enjoy many more happy returns.

Spin

Amen.

AJLondon

Outstanding Trip report. ^ ^

yow777

Excellent trip report!! The best I have ever read!!

LH738

Great report!

flyingmad

What a wonderful report and an absolute delight to read. So much so, I've read it 3 times, and appreciated every stylish detail. Congratulations on your 20 years, may there be many more happy trips ahead. Well done and thank you for providing such an entertaining read.