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'Round China Way in ANA F & C, UA F

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'Round China Way in ANA F & C, UA F

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Old Jun 16, 2004, 4:02 pm
  #1  
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'Round China Way in ANA F & C, UA F

As promised, here’s a bit of China. This was an award ticket (120K miles each). We planned it way back in December but made some changes (postponed it by a week) about six weeks ago. Mileage Plus was accommodating and we managed to evade not one but two change fees (hey – that’s $300!). At the last minute NRT-PEK opened up in F on UA (vs. C on NH) so we grabbed it – it probably saved our connection as it turns out (and made a very interesting dash through Narita). I probably am a bit enamored of ANA since it lived up to expectations, plus there’s the novelty factor. I also fly UA a lot so much of the UA experience might show me as a bit jaded. But ANA F was very, very nice.

I'll try to keep the installments coming without too much delay.

UA 23 DEN-LAX
767-300 (Domestic 2-class) N674UA
2A, 2B


Woke up to about 5 inches of slushy snow – late-April snow is unusual but not unheard of in Denver – our departure was at 8:40 a.m. so we didn’t have to get up at the real crack of dawn. Arrived at DIA at about 6:55 – simple and quick check-in (checked bags that were appropriately tagged to PEK with all the “fancy” F class tags). The elite line was open so we breezed through security within five minutes.

Off to the east Red Carpet Club to hang out watching the slushy activity outside. Coffee and those little orangey-flavored donut things were on offer (yogurt too, I think) but I was pacing myself and only had a bite. Boarding (B45) came at 8:00 – never a relaxed process on the 2-class 767 but the crew managed to offer water and O.J. and hang coats. This flight and aircraft went on to Maui (OGG) so the mood was festive and the crew made several references to the lucky few headed to the islands. One downside was the scrabby toes of the man in 1B that were prominently on display on the bulkhead . It appeared that every seat was full in F and Y. We pushed back one minute early and made our way to the deicing stands off to the west. Channel 9 was on and the crew was very proactive in explaining the deicing process and the fact that we would be nearly on-time to LAX. It took about 35 minutes until we finally took off to the west.

Service was efficient but not very personalized. We toasted our trip with bloody Marys (served with an Eli’s Apple Cinnamon Bar) as the video screens were fired up. Rumors of different food in F were sadly untrue – Michael Angelo was on board! UA flyers recognize the name of the infamous foil-wrapped ham, egg and cheese panini. But it was hot and filling and the fruit bowl made a nice complement. The salt and pepper shakers (tubes, too) are long gone, replaced by fast-food style envelopes, which rivaled the Eclipse breath mint sample and the AOL trial disk also present on the tray for sheer tackiness. I think there were linens underneath the trays, though. I read my Beijing pocket guide and peeked through the window at the desert below.

After a smooth descent we entered the L.A. basin – it was absolutely clear, sunny and beautiful – really the clearest weather I can recall in 25 years of flying into L.A. Catalina was clearly visible, which brought back some 8th-grade memories. The crew hadn’t lied – we pulled into the gate (71B) right on time at 10:06 although it involved tug-assistance. We had considered slumming it at the UA International F lounge but it was such a beautiful day the walk down to Tom Bradley didn’t want to wait. I’ve made the circuit around LAX many times over the years between flights but this was the first time I actually caught a flight at Bradley so I was in a fine mood. Past the “O.J. Memorial Skycap Lane,” a Mexicana A-320, four 747s (two Korean and two Japan Airlines) and a China Eastern A-340-600 and into the terminal we went.

The check-in counter was deserted – I guess 1:45 before boarding is a bit late – we marched right up to the F line (nice carpet and flowers) to see if we could switch our seats since I like aisles. No problem, sir. We were also issued pre-printed invites to the Signet Lounge. Nothing like that personal touch. My friend wasn’t interested in looking at duty-free so he took off for the lounge while I browsed for a while. Almost bought a “Skin” Swatch but decided to wait. Not being familiar with the terminal I incorrectly went to the south security screening when gate 120 was really at the north. The lines looked long but I was called out to cut into a much shorter line off to one side (lots of crew members present). I soon realized my mistake so I headed past the bus gates (no bus-station jokes please) and then upstairs to the Signet Lounge. My impression of the “inside” of the terminal was pretty bad (the “public” areas outside of security have been renovated since Bradley opened and are pretty nice IMHO. I don’t remember 1984 as being so frumpy – this seemed more like about 1978 – especially that grim “lounge” hallway with the tacky “marquee” lighting.

Inside the lounge it was better. I found my friend all alone inside the “F” part of the lounge. There were maybe 12 seats in there, along with a very old TV set. The decor looked pretty frumpy, with celery-colored brocade chairs. The attendant quickly brought a refreshing towel. The view was OK, though, being of the “alley” between the north and south sides of LAX. A China Eastern A-340-600 soon taxied past (loooooooong!) so plane-geek me was pleased. The Business part of the lounge was larger, and packed, with maybe 30 seats. That’s where the food/bar was. A Perrier and some cheese and crackers tided me over (still pacing myself) while I read some Japanese magazines. About 12:15 we headed downstairs to hit the rather sad little W.H. Smith shop for some Rolaids (strictly precautionary) for my friend. It really is amazing that there are only three little shops past security at the Bradley terminal. Definitely not on the cutting-edge of airport design. Never mind – past the first and only Mexicana 767-300 (Mexico City-bound) was our gate. Boarding had just started – lots of Japanese schoolgirls in their gray skirts and black knee-socks, if that’s your fetish.

NH 5 LAX-NRT
777-200 JA709A
2A, 2C


I think that there were two jetways but I could be mistaken. All I really remember is making that special left-turn and entering the first class cabin. Aaah . . . the first impression was one of space – lots of it. Two rows of 2-2-2, with I guess about 84 inches of pitch. We were in the second row, where we were led after a nice greeting from one of our flight attendants. Very conservative cabin, though, with light-gray carpet, medium blue-seats and purple headrest covers. The seats themselves weren’t fancy, but really comfortable. Just three main buttons (recline, footrest, lumbar), plus an extra button on the center armrest that moved the “hood” up and back. The hood extended automatically when the seat was put into the flat mode. One quirk was that the angle of recline was adjustable up to the “halfway” point where the seat stopped reclining. Another push of the button put the bed all the way flat (no stopping between the midway point and flat). Another button brought the whole affair back to upright (no need to hold the button down). The seat moved quickly and quietly. Blankets (wool, with a black and white houndstooth pattern) and Sony noise-cancelling headsets were on the seats.

A few moments later we were offered slippers and “loungewear,” sort of like pajamas; dark blue cotton, size large, wrapped in plastic. The card inside read: “In a Zen temple, the daily duties the monks perform are called “SAMU”, and the name “SAMUE” originates from the history of monks wearing these clothes during their austerities. “SAMUE” is now known as a relaxing home wear and is chosen as an item in adding a fresh taste to your life. The high quality cotton will provide you a comfortable fit in your daily life. Produce (sic) by ANA.” We decided to save ours for later. We were also given amenity kits (black nylon zip-up bag, maybe 8x12 inches). The selection of amenities was located in the lavatory, sort of a mix-and-match. Of course I took one of everthing! Here was the selection: Toothbrush/paste, paper shoehorn, ear plugs, fold-up comb, shoe polish kit, tissues, eye shades, hand cream, Luciole “milky lotion,” Luciole lotion, lip cream (Chapstick-type stick), “In-flight moisture control face mask,” and “leg refresh sheet.” The last one appears to be sheets intended to be put on the calves, ankles and feet. It was in Japanese only so I didn’t open mine. All the items were ANA-branded, dark blue with white lettering. Also in the lavatories were some full-sized bottled toiletries in a rack: men’s cologne, men’s hair tonic and women’s “whitening lotion.”

I explored the cabin before the doors were closed. Up front was the F galley, separated from the cabin by two sets of curtains, which made for a nice, quiet service. There were no passenger lavatories up there. On the left side (behind us) were two lavatories. The forward one was intended for F; behind it was a curtain so the rear was intended for C. Just behind that was the “Sky Bar” and door 2L, then another galley and the C cabin. It was huge, maybe 10 rows. On the right side of the F cabin was the “true” F lavatory, which was larger, with a bigger “Corian” sink (instead of stainless), and a fold-out seat for changing clothes. Racks in the galley area were well-stocked with (lots and lots) magazines and newspapers; we were also offered reading material by the flight attendants.

The purser soon came by to introduce herself, show us how the seat worked and give us menus. We were always addressed by last name. There were two F flight attendants, plus the purser sort of came and went (presumably she floated between the 3 cabins). Strangely, we weren’t offered pre-departure drinks; I think this just isn’t part of the ANA service, but we didn’t miss it. The 30 minute boarding period quickly passed and right on time at 12:50 or so the doors closed and we pushed back.

Next: A fine “eating experience.”

Last edited by Kurt; Jun 18, 2004 at 8:54 pm
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Old Jun 16, 2004, 4:27 pm
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Great!

Kurt, so far so good! Your little serendipitous comments are enjoyable... give me more.
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Old Jun 16, 2004, 4:50 pm
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Thumbs up Fantastic report so far!

Beautifully written and entertaining report, Kurt. ANA in F is at #1 on my own personal aviation wishlist (as far as scheduled flights are concerned, anyway) so I am seriously envious. More! More!
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Old Jun 16, 2004, 7:26 pm
  #4  
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My NH New Style First 744 flight JFK-NRT was amazing, so I'm looking forward to see how the older (but still awesome) Super Style service and such are. From the sounds of your premise and your initial review, I imagine it was just as wonderful.
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Old Jun 17, 2004, 12:23 pm
  #5  
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Foodies' delight

Thanks for the nice comments, people. Here's more:

As soon as we pushed back the “sky cam” was switched on (main screen at the front of the cabin). Kind of cool to see how many aircraft were lined up in front of us as we taxied over to the north side of LAX – at least 3 Southwest 737s and a couple of AA MD-80s. After we took off the camera was switchable between “forward” and “down” views on the PTV, along with the usual AirShow. I glanced out the window and noticed that the ground crew gathered for a little “wave” as we pulled away, just like they do in Japan. Takeoff was uneventful; I think I dozed off for 10 minutes or so, then pulled out the menu to think about lunch. The menu (inside a larger black leather-like folder with the drink menu) was simple cream-colored heavy stock with an abstract wave design and “Spring – First Class Menu” on the front. Simple, but high-quality, like ANA F as a whole, really. I think ANA has a 3-month menu cycle. Ours was all-English. Here’s the transcript (LAX-NRT [E] 040301):

Welcome to ANA First Class. We are delighted to offer you a choice of superb dining options. Relax in the serenity of our cabin and indulge in our modern Japanese and international cuisine, which includes a selection of light dishes created by our chef using the freshest seasonal ingredients. We hope you enjoy your eating experience.

LUNCH

Kaiseki course – Savor the refinement of classical Japanese cuisine. Our master chef selects nature’s finest, freshest ingredients to create a menu that evokes the essence of the season. A choice of hand-crafted sake perfectly complements this special dining experience.

Zensai – Simmered prawn; Octopus ragoût; Sake-flavored baby abalone; Sweet-stewed herring; Aromatic squid salad; Braised chicken meatballs

Oshinogi – Our selection of sushi

Kobachi – Duck breast braised in light soy sauce; Crabmeat and watercress salad with rich seafood stock

Takiawase – Scallop simmered in soy sauce; Koya-tofu (freeze-dried bean curd) and yomigi-fu (wheat gluten cake) simmered in light soy sauce; Assortment of simmered vegetables

Dainomono – Sea bream and burdock root simmered in special soy sauce

Steamed rice, miso soup, assorted pickles

Dessert (your choice of one of the following) – Ice cream and sorbet medley; Orange chocolate mousse with raspberry sauce; Warm chocolate pudding with vanilla ice cream

Selection of fresh seasonal fruit

Green tea, roasted tea

Wagashi – Toraya “Okokage” yokan (adzuki bean jelly)

A la carte – Light, easy, uncomplicated dining. Choose the dishes that catch your imagination and each will be plated on board, producing a freshness and taste not unlike a fine restaurant dining experience. Naturally, we also offer a tempting range of fine wine and sake for your consideration.

Oscietra caviar; Parma ham with marinated cantaloupe; Deep-fried softshell crab with creamy herb sauce

Fresh garden salad with lyo-mandarin dressing; pan-fried black pepper mozzarella with basil vinaigrette

Grilled tenderloin of beef with Chasseur sauce (355 kcal); Pan fried red snapper with tomato sauce (370 kcal); Roast duck breast with creamy leek purée (499 kcal); *Grilled vegetables with black olive vinaigrette (287 kcal) *a healthy vegetable-centric choice

Selection of breads with a choice of dairy butter or extra-virgin olive oil

Desserts (same as Japanese menu)

DELIGHTS

For those who prefer lighter dining; we invite you to choose from our extensive selection of snack dishes. For additional options, may our crew recommend one of our chef’s short tasting menus.

Sake accompaniment – Shiitake mushrooms and sea urchin braised in special miso sauce; Green seaweed simmered in soy sauce; Yakitori (skewer-grilled free-range chicken and vegetables); Kushiage (fried seafood and vegetables on skewers) with green tea salt; Oden (hotpot with fishcakes and vegetables); Assorted pickles from Kyoto

With wine – Brie (oozy, cream-colored and butter soft, with a downy white rind); Gorgonzola (one of the world’s three great blue cheeses – rich, creamy and marbled with blue-green mold); Boursin au Poivre (this smooth, triple-cream, spreadable French cheese is mixed with cracked black pepper for a spicy accent)

Light dishes – Hot udon noodles with beef and leek; Cantonese-style noodles in shark’s fin soup; Assorted seafood with wasabi and soy sauce, served over vinegared rice; Mugitoro gohan (steamed rice topped with simmered barley and grated yam mixture); Cantonese-style congee (rice porridge); Chef’s special chicken and mushroom curry; Classic pizza; Hot dog; Minestrone soup

Sweet treats – Cheesecake; Cherry strudel

Post-nap comfort – Fresh garden salad; Cornflakes with milk; Selection of fresh seasonal fruit

PRE-ARRIVAL

Petite Japanese course – Eggplant braised in light soy sauce; Anago (conger eel) simmered in special soy sauce; Steamed rice or okayu (creamy rice porridge); Natto (fermented soybeans); Dried seaweed; Miso soup; Assorted pickles

***

Petite international course – Gratin of eggs with veal sausage; Bread roll; Fresh seasonal fruit

Whew! ANA’s reputation as a “foodie” airline is true. I was most impressed by the mid-flight snack menu – a huge, varied selection, and not on a cart (Hello, UA!) (there was even more food on the “Sky Bar” for the taking). There were 9 types of tea, 4 types of sake. The best part was the flight attendants, who encouraged us to taste different things and were so polite and refined (UA? Are you there, UA?). The man across the aisle ordered red wine and was presented with three full-size glasses so he could taste and choose the one he liked best.

The wine and beverage menu looked the same but was narrower, with color reproductions of wine labels and descriptions. It was in Japanese and English. After page one I was done – Krug Grand Cuvée! It flowed freely – delicious and really good with the Japanese food I decided on – my friend had western but I think mine was better. About 15 minutes after takeoff hot towels were presented (the first of several); they were thick and sat on black lacquer holders. A drink? “Krug me, please.” Two flutes were placed and the bubbly flowed – perfectly presented in a white towel. Sluuurp – mmmm . . . An “amuse bouche” arrived next – a small, white covered pot with a sort of creamy custard with a single shrimp and a piece of pepper on top. Next came a second tidbit, a small, white ramekin with several types of olives (green, black, Kalamata). I like nuts but these starters were a nice change.

Since I ordered the Japanese course I got a different meal setup than my friend (he got blue linen on his tray table). On top of my linen was placed a round, black serving tray on which the Japanese courses were placed. First was the Zensai, on a bow-tie shaped plate, white with a blue, green and rust design. Wooden chopsticks and a toothpick came, too. Very tasty – Japanese food for me is a series of sensations: sight, taste, texture (especially texture, how else would you describe octopus?) – this was a lot of fish but it was all fresh and delicious. My friend had a nice salad that I commented on – the flight attendant was sweet and brought me a small serving in a comma-shaped dish (and another serving with breakfast!). Next was the sushi – this came on an oblong plate (with a small white square dish of soy sauce on the side) and was lovely to look at. My favorite was a small crab claw and the fresh-ginger garnish. The western service ware was white with black accent pieces; salt and pepper came in tiny, white plates. (White, plastic knives and stainless spoons and forks.) My friend had the caviar, crab, steak and mozzarella, with the salad in-between, then sorbet. The bread selection looked good so I had a sourdough roll as well. The Australian Shiraz he had looked good as well so I was brought a glass of that (Krug was still flowing, of course). These flight attendants were great – I didn’t ask for the red wine; she just noticed me tasting it and brought some for me. My friend had a couple of glasses of Taylor’s 20-year-old Tawny Port that he said was fine (he’s a port fan; I’m not wild for it).

The next three courses all arrived together, each in a different-design bowl/plate. I enjoyed the duck a lot – it had a nice, mild flavor; the sea bream was perfect, very tender and fresh-tasting. Nice, sticky rice, too. Dessert for me was the chocolate pudding with ice cream. It was more like a warm brownie with a liquid center – very good. I was drinking decaf by this time. Water was served in 1-liter Crystal Geyser bottles; I think I had three during the flight. Finally, a nice selection of chocolates was offered (I chose on that was dark, soft and bitter, almost like fudge). An excellent meal, I thought.

The cabin lights were dimmed, shades were drawn (I think we had 4 or 5 windows). The AVOD system worked well, though the screens were not super-big (maybe 8 inches diagonally). The music, however, was not AVOD, but a rather skimpy 10 channels with only one or two that appealed to me. It was probably the weakest part of the flight. But the movie and video selection was good, and games were available. I tried a “Las Vegas” gambling game that was fun but slow to get started (sort of “story” based with characters wanting to be invited to the table to gamble). My friend played Mahjong for a few hours so he must have enjoyed it. I settled on “Love Actually” (the edited version) and watched it on and off during lunch. The “pause” feature worked well once I figured it out. One weak part of the seat was the lack of storage. Other than a small indent in the center console, there was no storage except for the seat pocket ahead and two pouches under the windows. I was good and sleepy by the end of the movie I went into bed mode and started to snooze. About 2 hours later I woke up warm and realized that the flight attendant had covered me up (and everyone else) with a big quilt (also houndstooth) – I rearranged the seat so the quilt was under me and the light blanket on top and then went back to sleep for another 4 hours. I guess that’s an endorsement for old-style F on ANA, though those suites look great.

I watched “School of Rock” (also edited) and tried some goodies from the “delights” menu: Yakitori and Oden (hot pot; really good miso broth). Both were delicious, as was the Kikuhime “Yamahai Ginjo Genshu [Ishikawa]” “chrysanthemum” sake (don’t ask me what that means because I don’t know). My friend woke up about an hour later and had some cheese and more red wine. Soon it was “pre-arrival snack” time and I chose the western meal. I think Britain was the western country in mind because my poached eggs and sausage came with a spot of baked beans. A very nice fruit plate (red and green grapes, strawberry, grapefruit, pineapple, green and orange melon) followed, along with more coffee, regular this time.

We had been plagued by strong headwinds the whole flight (we were only doing 486 mph when I checked) so we arrived late to gloomy, rainy Narita after circling around for a while. The nose-cam was again switched on and we got to see the runway and serveral interesting taxi-shots of other aircraft). Our scheduled arrival was 4:25 p.m. Since our connection to PEK on UA was at 6:10 p.m. (meaning a closed gate at 5:40 p.m.) we were a bit nervous. Actual flight time was just over 12 hours, so we were just poking along. Our original connection to PEK on ANA (NH 955) was to have left at 5:25 p.m. so the switch to UA was a good move in the end. Our lovely crew said goodbye (yes, they do bow) and we were the first off the aircraft at 5: 21 p.m. Is a 19-minute connection from Terminal 2 to Terminal 1 at Narita possible? Would we make it or spend the night in Japan? More to come . . .

I can transcribe the drinks menu/business class menu if anyone’s interested.

Next: the Narita marathon and the personal touch.

Last edited by Kurt; Jun 17, 2004 at 1:23 pm
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Old Jun 17, 2004, 6:26 pm
  #6  
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Kurt :
Are you sure that you are in the signet lounge in LA? I think ANA does not have any lounge in the US at all. I acually had just had the same flight NH 5 last month but in Y class, and went in that "ANA" lounge too since I am *G, seems to me it is a Dynasty lounge by China Airlines, but with the ANA staff. Maybe the lounge return to CI at night ?

Also inside are all the snacks, drinks, even magazines from Taiwan, just several Japanese newspapers. (I am Chinese, can read and understand what are those) If it is a true NH lounge, don't think it would have that much stuff in there at all, just take a look at Club ANA and signet in NRT for example.
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Old Jun 17, 2004, 6:41 pm
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Good question

I just checked the ANA website and it shows a "Signet Lounge" on the 4th floor at the south end of Bradley (where we were). There was no "official" F lounge, just the little separate room where we were escorted. The site also shows a "Club ANA Lounge" on the 5th floor at the north end of Bradley. Maybe that was the lounge you visited. I don't remember any signage other than ANA. It would make a lot of sense to share a lounge if one airline had a flight at midday and the other had a flight at midnight.

At any rate, airside at LAX Bradley is a bit of a dump
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Old Jun 17, 2004, 7:02 pm
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Wow, what an amazing meal. To have such an extensive choice (and being ANA they probably have enough of everything for everybody) one can only wonder how much food they must throw away at the end of each flight!

Originally Posted by Kurt
I can transcribe the drinks menu/business class menu if anyone’s interested.
I'd love to know what was on the drinks menu, specifically the wines, if that's not too much hassle.
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Old Jun 17, 2004, 9:30 pm
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Wine & Beverage

OK, here's the hooch menu. I swiped some of this from the ANA website so some typos might exist. Except for the Krug none of the wines was super high-end; I don't know sake other than what I drank, which was fine.

Welcome to our exclusive bar in the sky. We have gathered for your enjoyment an exceptional portfolio of fine wines, chosen by our sommelier from leading producers around the world, as well as a selection of distinctive hand-crafted sake, premium spirits, and gourmet coffee and tea. Rest, relax and enjoy your journey!

CHAMPAGNE
Krug Grand Cuvée
“Grande Cuvée'' is an exquisite blend of exceptional vintages. This Krug has a fragrantly rich and elegant bouquet with hints of apple blossom, honey and roasted nuts. Its fine mousse, balance and length are the ultimate seduction. A truly elegant Champagne from a great master. Pinot Noir/Pinot Meunier/Chardonnay

WHITE WINE
Chablis Premier Cru Vaillon 2001; Bourgogne, France
Lively aromas of citrus and minerals. This classic, majestic Chablis has a prominent, crisp acidly that harmonizes well with its refined and stylish body. Chardonnay

Eroica Riesling 2002; Washington, U.S.A.
Cotton candy-like sweetness and beautiful acidly, gracefully combining with soft mouth-feel. Garners a consistently high ranking from the Wine Spectator. Reisling

The Hess Collection Napa Valley Chardonnay 2001; California, U.S.A.
Tropical nuances of yellow peaches and pineapples on the noise, yet the aftertaste leaves notes of honey and apples. This fine wine is known for the bold, full effects it has on the palate. Chardonnay

Wairau River Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2001 Reserve; South Island, New Zealand
Noted for its soft pungent texture with the flavor of fresh pear and mint, this wine has a taste of lime combined with lively acidity that gives a pure and refreshing impression. Sauvignon Blanc

RED WINE
Chateau Malescot St. Exupéry 1995; Bordeaux, France
The village of Margaux is well known for producing perfumed and rich Bordeaux. This '95 wine is very typical of the Margaux village style. The wine is full-bodied, with a fragrance of berry, vanilla, and licorice. Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet/Petit Verdot

Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir 1997; Oregon, U.S.A.
This wine is a splendid mixture of full-body and subtle sweetness. It is the aristocrat of Oregon wines, which is the new world for Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir

Chateau Trotte Vieille Saint-Emilion Premire Grand-Cru Classe 1999; Bordeaux, France
Rich, concentrated fruits with sweet oak aromas and peppery Shiraz berry aromas. This spicy wine is only made in years when the best quality fruit is available. Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Michael Shiraz 1998; South Australia, Australia
Rich, concentrated fruits with sweet oak aromas and peppery Shiraz berry aromas. This spicy wine is only made in years when the best quality fruit is available. One of Australia’s finest. Shiraz

PRESTIGE SAKE
KIKUHIME; Yamahai Ginjo Genshu (Ishikawa)
The Kikuhime brewery is located near the Tedori River, the ultimate destination of the snow-fed streams Hakusan, one of Japan's sacred mountains. This delicious sake has been called kikuzake (chrysanthemum sake) for many centuries. Kikuhime is a fragrant genshu (unprocessed sake) with an exceptionally clean taste and assertive personality.
Alcohol: 18.0%-18.9% ; sake +5.0; acidity: 1.4; amino acidity: 1.4; rice: Yamada Nishiki, Accompaniment: Green seaweed simmered in soy sauce

MANZAIRAKU; Plum Wine of Kaga (Ishikawa)
This plum wine was made by the traditional method, using freshly picked ripe plums from Ozawa-cho in Kanazawa, the subsoil water of Mount Hakusan, essential for brewing "Manzairaku," together with crystallized sugar and brewery alcohol.

NISHINOSEKI; Fukurodori Shizukuzake (Oita)
Nishinoseki, on the Kunisaki peninsula in Oita Prefecture, has long been nicknamed "the grand champion of western Japan" This sake is a gem; it has traditional flavors that produce gentle aromas and a pleasant, rounded taste that showcases a perfect balance of sweetness, acidly, dryness, bitterness, and astringency. Accompaniment: Shiitake mushrooms and sea urchin braised in special miso sauce.

KAWAGOE; Genuine Imo-Jochu (Distilled Spirit) (Miyazaki)
Kawagoe Brewery is a family-run shochu (distilled spirit) brewery in Kunitomi-cho, adjacent to Miyazaki-shi. Only the freshest sweet potatoes harvested in early morning are used for this shochu. After the primary feed in a large jar, the normal pressure distillation produces a full, rich taste.

The liquor selection wasn’t unusual except for two special cocktails:
Grand Blue (Blue Curaçao, Campari, Tonic water)
Royal Rouge (Cassis, Grapefruit juice, Soda)

Of note was the coffee:
Wallenford Estate Jamaica Blue Mountain Coffee
We are proud to serve you prestigious Wallenford Estate Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee, perhaps the rarest and finest coffee in the world. ANA’s special blend, made from Wallenford Estate beans – hand-picked and certified 100% genuine by the Jamaica Coffee Industry Board, Commercial Division – is smooth, rich and full-bodied, with moderate acidity. Please enjoy this king of coffees!
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Old Jun 18, 2004, 12:05 am
  #10  
 
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Thanks, Kurt. I see what you mean - it's a good, but not great, list. Krug is nice though! I understand the sakes are meant to be good too - I'm no connoisseur, but I do enjoy the stuff. Apparently the worst faux-pas is to ask for a really premium sake to be served hot - that is reserved for the cheap stuff.
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Old Jun 18, 2004, 5:13 pm
  #11  
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A very short stay in Japan

This bit is shorter; it’s more-familiar United territory and the flight was much shorter, too.

Stepping off NH 5 we were immediately greeted by a friendly NH employee named Miko, who was holding a sign with our names on it. My concern immediately evaporated as she said “I will take you to the bus to Terminal 1 so you can make your connection to Beijing on United. Did you have an enjoyable flight?” I felt like a VIP or a rock star. Worries about duty free shops and lounges were all forgotten as we cruised through Terminal 2 to the center of the concourse, then downstairs to the bus lounge. The brisk walk felt good after 12+ sedentary hours. We chatted with Miko, whose English was perfect. She paced around trying to catch sight of the bus. It arrived in about five minutes and she bid us goodbye and pleasant journey, after assuring us that our bags would make the connection, too. Way to go, NH!

As we went toward the ramp to the flyover to Terminal 1 I noticed a single UA 777 by itself. Turns out it was our aircraft to PEK – too bad we couldn’t just stop and get on. We soon arrived at Gate 28, where Miko’s UA counterpart was waiting. “Are you from the ANA flight from Los Angeles? OK, I’ll take you to your gate. Did you have a nice flight?” I was really starting to like this VIP stuff ! Of course it was a bus gate, 28F, I believe, the farthest one, but only about a two minute walk. We zipped through the gate and onto another orange bus, where we went around the other way to the same aircraft we’d just encountered. There were about 30 of us on the bus so we weren’t even worried about being the last on board. We pulled up to the aircraft at 5:38, two minutes to spare. What a great antidote to those long, zoned-out Narita layovers.

UA 875 NRT-PEK
777-200 (3-class, no C+/E+) N827UA
1J, 2J


The good news was we were in United First (instead of NH C). The bad news was that our seats weren’t together (the E-F center block). No matter; I was suddenly feeling tired as the adrenaline wore off from our quick connection. I took 1J. My thoughts: “Gee, it sure is close to the galley. I can see right in there. And there are so many people coming and going. It’s not as serene and quiet as NH. But this seat is fantastic!” Since this was an under 4-hour flight my service expectations weren’t sky-high. I instantly appreciated the great amount of storage space in the FirstSuite – I could put my backpack in the top-loading storage bin at the front and my camera, book/magazines, notebook etc. in the triangle-shaped bin at the side and still have extra room. The suite makes up for a lot of little service details that I found to be not as nice as NH (or SQ or CX or other “top” Asian carriers, I guess).

I was offered a drink and greeted by two flight attendants, given a menu, noise-cancelling headphones and Chinese immigration cards, but no amenity kit (too short of a flight). Some socks at least would have been nice. I reclined a bit and dozed until it was time to push back (right on time at 6:10 p.m.). Announcements in three languages (English, Japanese, Mandarin; the menu was in English, Japanese and Chinese, too) droned on as we lined up to take off. It was from the newer, short runway, a first for me. Our light fuel load meant we just shot off the ground – very nice climbing action. I looked at the entertainment guide and considered a video film but I must have missed the basket coming around, then forgot about it. I watched “Mona Lisa Smile,” which stunk worse and worse as it went on, but I stuck with it.

It was bumpy on our climb-out so service started late, probably 30 minutes from takeoff. Warm nuts were served, then I chose Champagne to drink and got to see the young, Asian flight attendant man-handle the bottle (Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque 1996) open, spilling at least a quarter of the contents. She did a heck of a job banging the ice, too! I did not like the location of the seat; too much galley light and activity – bang, bump, clatter! – and no curtains to hide the show. The menu was big, with a nice B&W photo of pears on a silver serving platter and a gold back (I’m skipping the “welcome” blurb as that’s been featured here before.). here’s the menu (4/04 NRT-PEK/TPE [LD93]):

TO BEGIN

Herb-marinated shrimp; Asian-style dressing and marinated vegetables

MAIN COURSE

Filet Mignon with a shiitake mushroom and Port wine demi-glace*
Baked sweet potato pie with a zucchini and carrot sauté

Lemon-grass chicken with ginger lime sauce
Chicken rice with an onion, red pepper and shiitake mushroom stir-fry

Kishimen noodles with chicken, crabmeat, shrimp and scallops
Thai curry sauce, mushrooms, bamboo shoots and red pepper

Hero sub sandwich and New England clam chowder*
Hero sub sandwich of Genoa salami, ham, honey-cured turkey and Muenster cheese with a honey Dijon sauce

*Today’s menu features Beef from Australia

DESSERT

Tropical sherbet medley
Orange, mango and raspberry flavored

I chose the steak, which was tender and tasty. It came with a very nice chunky barbecue-style sauce on the side and a weird potato-wedge and some decent veggies. The crusty brown bread I chose was good, too. The food overall was good, but just a bit disappointing. I was surprised to see the appetizer/salad appear on the same plate. It felt a lot like the meal I had Narita-Taipei in C class on UA last year (Beijing and Taipei get the same food according the menu codes above). Service was friendly and warm, though, very different from the quiet, formal, conservative ANA style we had just enjoyed. I had some really delicious red wine with my steak (Yalumba Barossa Valley Shiraz 2002), then some port as I picked at my sherbet. After Julia Roberts was finally driven off to bohemian Europe by the narrow-minded ‘50s private-school girls (good riddance!), I strolled the aircraft. It was totally full. My friend had the Thai-style noodles and said that the seafood was quite skimpy but it was tasty. Then it was nap-time (my friend dropped off without even reclining his seat!). The suite went flat, I went comatose for one hour and then we were on approach to Beijing Capital Airport. It was clear but very hazy outside (very typically Chinese weather). A short taxi later and we pulled up to the gate a bit early, just before 9:00 p.m. local time. The crew did not bow as they said goodbye.

I wish I had a better recollection of the modern terminal, but we cruised right through. All that was left was to collect our checked bags (they made the short connection), find money and a taxi. Welcome to China!

Next: Another modern airport.
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Old Jun 18, 2004, 6:17 pm
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Kurt
I just checked the ANA website and it shows a "Signet Lounge" on the 4th floor at the south end of Bradley (where we were). There was no "official" F lounge, just the little separate room where we were escorted. The site also shows a "Club ANA Lounge" on the 5th floor at the north end of Bradley. Maybe that was the lounge you visited. I don't remember any signage other than ANA. It would make a lot of sense to share a lounge if one airline had a flight at midday and the other had a flight at midnight.

At any rate, airside at LAX Bradley is a bit of a dump
The lounge I went in forgot which floor, but did have a separate area for F class, the left side is for C class and *G, right side is for F class. When there were a bunch of guys went into the F side, the lady from the front desk rush to the C side to get a tray of towels, and then rush back to the F side.
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Old Jun 19, 2004, 9:39 am
  #13  
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Middle of the Sandwich

This trip was pretty low-key and relaxing. Our time in China consisted of four nights in Beijing, two nights in Nanjing and three nights in Shanghai. We stayed at three Hiltons, but that's another trip report. A few highlights: we saw the Great Wall, the Ming Tombs, Tiananmen Square, the Forbidden City and the Summer Palace in Beijing. Ate Peking duck and lots of other tasty Chinese treats. In Nanjing we saw Sun Yat-Sen's mausoleum, several other temples and Purple Mountain, then rode a bus to Shanghai (I know all about Hong Kong action movies now). In Shanghai we saw the Bund, the Pearl Tower, several museums, a zillion other tourists (it was Labor Day holiday so the place was packed) shopped a lot, had drinks/gawked at the view at the top of the Jin Mao Tower (Hyatt) and ate more excellent Chinese food (plus a lot of beer) . Prices were quite reasonable, especially for food, taxis and clothes.

Our trip from Beijing to Nanjing is in another trip report:

Beijing to Nanjing on Air China

SARS was trying to flare up again but we only saw a few people in masks; it seemed to get worse in Beijing after we left. Thermal-scanning was present in NKG and PVG. Weather was OK, pretty hazy, some sun, some rain, but never super-hot nor super-cold. I found the Chinese people we met to be friendly, more so in Nanjing where they don't see so many Gwailos.

Next up: ANA regional C to NRT.
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Old Jun 19, 2004, 6:21 pm
  #14  
 
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We flew ANA F IAD-NRT-IAD in January of 2003. It is very interesting to read the menu Kurt posted here. Brings back good memories......

We had the Krug shortly after takeoff. Eventually the two of us drank a whole bottle.

The flight attendant told me they board one Western and one Japanese meal for each passenger. We ordered one Western meal and one Japanese meal, so that we could try both. The flight attendant told us we could have an extra seving of caviar, salad, dessert, or whatever we wanted.

On the return flight, they served 97 Mouton Rothschild with the 50th anniversary meal. I don't know what I was thinking, but I only had 1 glass of it..... I really don't like drinking too much alcohol on the plane though.

As for in-flight snacks (more like meals to me..... I was able to pick 4 or 5 items on the list and made a mid-flight meal out of it), we were told they board at least a few of each on every flight. They had plenty of whatever we wanted to order.

On the same trip, we also flew ANA C NRT-HKG, and UA F TPE-NRT. I was extremely disappointed by ANA's C class service. Service was no better than a typical UA domestic flight in economy. The meal was a one-tray affair, just like economy. The quantity of food served remineded me of a typical domestic transcon flight. I guess we'll wait to read what Kurt thought of it.

One thing I really regret was that we did not keep all the pajamas we were given. I didn't open them on the plane, and only kept one to take home. Now I really like them, and wished I'd kept all four. If any other FTer is flying ANA F in the future, I'd really appreciate it if you could pick one up for me.
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Old Jun 22, 2004, 8:58 am
  #15  
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Japan-bound

Our last morning in Shanghai was a bit gloomy, with a few glimpses of sunshine. We hit the Hilton’s (excellent) buffet breakfast just as it opened for a croissant and a cup of very strong, black coffee. We checked out and caught the shuttle bus out to Pudong. It’s a very long way out to the new airport; probably 45 minutes past the modern areas of the city, huge container-ship yards, industrial areas and the flat countryside. Lots of billboards on the modern highway, giving way to lots of development surrounding the new airport. Pudong is really impressive, with a huge, airy check-in area that reminded me a lot of Chek Lap Kok in Hong Hong. We walked down to the end where the ANA counter was, then back to the center after we realized we needed a SARS inspection card to check in. The questionnaire was surprisingly thorough, and then we were given another thermal scan. Back to the check-in counter (good thing they have free luggage carts!), where we were processed quickly and our luggage tagged all the way to Denver (via NRT and SFO); we were also issued passes (also hand-typed with our names) to the Club ANA lounge in PVG and the First Class lounge in NRT. We had scheduled a long (5-hour) layover in SFO so we could have F on a 777, but had decided to have a shorter stop and try for an earlier flight on a 2-class aircraft. The ANA agent told us we’d have to change the flight in SFO, which was what we were expecting.

Another departure tax (this one 90 Yuan) was required before entering security; automated machines were available to take our leftover coins. Security actually took quite a while (maybe 20 minutes in line), but it was an orderly affair. We headed for the Signet lounge, which was downstairs from the gate (21 as I recall). The concourse itself was bright and contemporary with lots of duty-free shops. Inside the Club ANA lounge it was very quiet (maybe 5 other passengers besides us). There was a pretty good selection of snacks and drinks (upside-down full-sized bottles of hooch, coolers with juices, sodas and beer), but nothing outstanding. There were hot-towel dispensers, but no showers that I can recall. Good selection of newspapers and magazines. I was back in “pacing myself” mode so I just had a couple of tiny finger sandwiches and some mineral water. We boarded about 20 minutes before scheduled departure; the load was very light; maybe 25% full in C and 80% in Y (just 2 classes on NH inter-Asia).

NH 922 PVG-NRT
777-200 JA705A
2H, 2K


Seats were in a 2-3-2 configuration in either gray or soft, dark purple; they reminded me a lot of the original mid ‘90s UA 777 C config. (same width), but recline wasn’t great; maybe 45 inches of pitch I’d guess. There were 6 rows in the front C cabin, then 3 rows behind the galley. Economy on ANA’s 777s is 3-3-3, with dark purple or green upholstery, BTW. Again, this was only a 3-hour flight so I wasn’t expecting the luxurious F we’d enjoyed. There were legrests and in-seat video. I didn’t watch any movies (I think they had them “turned on”), just the moving map. It had started to rain again but we pushed back right on time at 10:15 a.m. and made it off the ground within 15 minutes.

Service was great – maybe it was the light load but I didn’t wait long for anything. I wanted to try the Champagne so I chose that. Here’s the wine list since it’s short:

Champagne Nicolas Feillate Blanc de Blancs 1996
A sophisticated, elegant Champagne made exclusively from chardonnay grapes. Fresh and citrus, with a long silky finish.

Bourgogne Chardonnay Couvent des Jacobins 2000 (Bourgogne, France)
Hints of ripe apple, tempered with citrus and mineral notes. Strikes a good harmony with the drier, toasted oak bouquet.

Chateau Blaignan 1998 (Bordeaux, France)
An elegant, well-structured wine with an animated bouquet of red fruit. Just enough tannins to keep it soft.

Special Junmai Tsukasa-botan Senchu-hassaku (Kochi)
This smooth and extra-dry sake from the Tosa district (Shikoku) is ultra-high quality. Pairs well with any traditionally-prepared Japanese food.

With the Champagne (tasty with the “Mix Nuts – Supreme Mix” [ANA-branded]) I perused the menu (white and green, with a B&W photo of a waterfall; [NRT-HKG 040301]):

Welcome to Club ANA. We are delighted to offer you a range of superb dining options. Relax in the serenity of our cabin and indulge in our modern Japanese and International cuisine, created by our chef and using the freshest seasonal ingredients. To complement your meal, a selection of fine wines, sake and other drinks is available at any time. We hope you enjoy your flight with us.

Kaiseki course
Savor the refinement of classical Japanese cuisine. Our master chef selects nature’s finest, freshest ingredients to create a menu that evokes the essence of the season. A choice of hand-crafted sake perfectly complements this special dining experience.

Zensai
Bamboo shoot terrine; Octopus ragoût; Unagi (fresh-water eel) patty; Crisp radish salad; Pickled cucumber

Kobachi
Greens with rich seafood stock

Oshinogi
Udon (white wheat) noodles

Dainomono
(for March) Grilled Spanish mackerel with yuzu citron soy sauce; Assortment of simmered vegetables; Steamed rice with Japanese herbs
(for April) Beef sukiyaki; Steamed rice
(for May) Grilled salmon with sesame soy sauce; Assortment of simmered vegetables; Steamed rice

Miso soup

Pickles

Green tea

International course
Peak-of-season ingredients, exciting taste combinations from around the world, and a light, elegant touch add up to a sophisticated style of dining. To accompany your course, we invite you to choose from our sommelier’s collection of premium wines.

Appetizer
Gravlax (dill-cured salmon)
Parma ham with parisienne melons

Main course
(for March) Braised beef with lentil sauce [334 kcal]
(for April) Grilled cod with basil tomato sauce [331 kcal]
(for May) Pan-fried chicken with creamy herb sauce [392 kcal]

Fresh garden salad

Bread roll

Dessert

Coffee or tea

It was basically a choice between Japanese and western. Since it was May I chose the western since I like chicken (and planned to indulge in the Japanese food out of Narita on the next flight). The meal came on one tray (disappointing, as KatanaPilot said, and the entrée arrived with a cardboard cover that read “This cover is placed to keep the contents hot and moisturized. Thank you.”) but was delicious. Maybe it was the first real western lunch I’d had in 10 days but the chicken was tender and the sauce nice and creamy (creamy isn’t really an element in Chinese cuisine). Dessert was just a small dish of watermelon. I would have liked something sweeter, or a piece of chocolate. I also had a cup of coffee, which was much better than what we’d had in China (I’m not a tea-drinker so thousands of years of tea-making culture was lost on me).

I looked at duty-free but nothing was appealing, so I wrote in my journal and watched the moving map. ANA shows a very cute video of inflight exercises to ward off DVT and the effects of jet-lag. Imagine three young Japanese women sitting in the 3-block of Y on a 747, all doing the same exercises (neck stretching, circling feet) in perfect unison – completely seriously, of course. I would watch this show at home! Anyway, our approach to NRT (cloudy, again) was direct (the SkyCam was turned on again for this flight) and we pulled up to our gate in the B concourse of Terminal 2 right on time at 2:15 p.m.

Next: Narita largo

Last edited by Kurt; Jun 22, 2004 at 3:02 pm
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