Berlin and Geneva with United Global First, Lufthansa, and Brussels Airlines
Jan 1, 2013, 9:10 am
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Arizona, USA
Posts: 2,403
Berlin and Geneva with United Global First, Lufthansa, and Brussels Airlines
Introduction
I always go to visit my family for "Christmachanukwanzaa" over the winter holidays. We usually have five languages and three religions running simultaneously. No joke. It's like the UN, with a lot more alcohol, sledding, and Legos. Or maybe the UN has more sledding than I realized. I'm not sure.
My relatives have a farmhouse in the Alps. It's beautiful but dangerous. Last year, it caught on fire while we were all there (my cousins, brother-in-law, and I doused the flames with buckets of water.) Also, the "younger generation" (including me) stays in the odd little apartment next door, which I am convinced is heated entirely with carbon monoxide. The choice is to leave the window open and die of hypothermia, or enjoy the asphyxia from the 0.1% oxygen environment.
Meanwhile, a high school friend had been begging me to visit him in Berlin. Another friend had also just moved there, so I had no excuse. I hadn't been to Berlin since 1992, and I knew it was time for a visit.
Since I'd just seen some of my family in Paris over Thanksgiving, I decided on a brief trip to the Alpine Death and Legos House and a longer trip to Berlin.
Fares were exceptionally cheap, and I didn't have any trouble scoring upgrades. Since intra-European flights can be pricey, I used MileagePlus with minimal effort. The flights were wide open.
SEA-TAC
I was definitely not ready for my 6:00 am departure. As much as I plan everything out, I still managed to set off my car alarm, grab the wrong set of keys, etc.
I was also dreading security. SEA-TAC still uses radiation-based scanners, and I had mentally prepared myself for an unpleasant opt-out (no PreCheck for an international trip).
Fortunately, the United Global Services/Global First desk was empty, and a relentlessly cheery Airserv agent had my bags tagged in less than 20 seconds. "You're going a long way!" He exclaimed.
Luckily, there was only about a five-minute wait at security, the staff were kind, and I was surprisingly blessed with metal detector-only treatment. Karma will get back at me somehow, but I was relieved by my good luck.
The United Club (N gates) was deserted. As always, the woman at the desk was lovely (I'd not seen her before; maybe she was providing "vacation coverage").
There was a massive snowstorm threatening to close O'Hare later that day. Fortunately, I was on the early flight to Frankfurt, and there appeared to be no cause for rerouting.
I engulfed a few espressos then headed upstairs.
20 December 2012
United 732
Seattle/Tacoma-Chicago/O'Hare
B737-800
Seat 1B
Meh. The usual. The crew was obviously tired, stressed about carry-ons, and probably worried about getting stuck at O'Hare. They weren’t nasty by any means, but you couldn't crack a smile out of them with a crow bar.
I'd never seen this before, but an unaccompanied minor boarded. The lead flight attendant gave him an individual safety briefing while standing at the doorway. She explained where the exits are located, the use of oxygen masks, etc. I suppose it's a good idea, but this woman was racing through it, clearly annoyed that this was one of her duties. I'm sure that the kid gained nothing from this demonstration.
We had an on-time departure, and had the usual breakfast service of cereal or eggs. I just asked for the "set-up" and had a "Continental" breakfast (or "Ex-Con" breakfast, as they'd probably call it.)
O'Hare
I headed to the Global First Lounge,. I couldn't actually find it. I went to the United Club, where the agent asked for my boarding card. "You missed it," she explained, "It's really well-hidden behind a plant." Indeed it is.
Once inside, a friendly agent welcomed me, asked if I wanted a tour or needed any special assistance. I asked for a shower, and they happily obliged. I was given a nice little kit of toiletries, and had a long, hot, pleasant shower with a heated towel rack.
The lounge itself is no great shakes. I'd been to the Dulles and San Francisco Global First lounges, and this one was fine. It's reasonably quiet, food and drinks are self-serve, but it's not some sort of luxurious oasis. The advantages are the lack of crowds and the showers. Everything else was just sort of acceptable. I'm not saying that I'd turn it down, but it's not "spectacular," to use Jeff Smisek's term from the Dreamliner video.
O'Hare was actually starting to turn into a "cluster." The customer service lines were snaking well into the concourse. Flight after flight was marked "cancelled," but not mine. I took the tunnel over to the "B" gates, where boarding was underway.
United 944
Chicago O'Hare-Frankfurt
B777-200
Seat 1K
An overwhelmingly friendly flight attendant welcomed me on board and took my coat. I was sort of bummed when she disappeared into one of the aft cabins. She was kind of charming.
The seat was equipped with the usual two pillows, big blanket, big amenity kit, and a card explaining "turn down" service. There was also a little "business card" with the technical details of the 777. I'd never seen that before, and I thought it was cute.
The captain impressed me because he spoke some German. I was kind of shocked when he said, "Bitte anschnallen." Maybe that's the only German he spoke, but he had me fooled.
The purser was Patricia. She and Andrew were serving the ten "Global First" passengers this afternoon. Patricia was definitely "no nonsense," but not mean or unpleasant. She didn't introduce herself, call me by name, thank me, or otherwise go out of her way. She just sort of did her job. Andrew was much more engaging, but I gathered that Andrew and Patricia were not exactly bff's
The guy behind me smelled unbelievably awful. We're talking about flashbacks to seeing homeless patients in the ER. I managed to set my gasper vent in such a way that it blew air away from him.
The young couple next to me weren't gems either. The young woman asked if she could forego her special meal because she was tempted by the menu. Patricia told her "No. That would mean that someone else would have to eat your meal." I call b#lls!#t, Patricia. The BusinessFirst and GlobalFirst main courses are the same, so I'm sure that someone, somewhere wasn't eating. On the other hand, if the passenger had been a bit more polite (or asked Andrew), I'm confident that things would have worked out in her favor.
Despite the impending storm, we made an expeditious departure. The captain warned us that it would be extremely turbulent. No kidding. It was really hard to sleep.
Here is the menu, for those interested.
The alcohol selection has taken a nosedive. I'll never forgive the bean counters who took away Campari and Vermouth. And Miller Lite is considered appropriate for "Global First?" Is this a revival of Hooters Air? A frat party? Will there be hazing rituals? Beer pong in the main cabin? Will I be asked to "pledge?" On second thought, I'm not entirely against this idea. It could make a long flight more interesting.
Speaking of nosedives, it was extremely turbulent. Patricia and Andrew were trying desperately not to get attacked by carts. They had to do some acrobatics to keep themselves from getting hurt. During a quiet spell, I got up and asked if they were okay. They were both shocked that I would care. "We had some close calls," they explained, "you're so sweet to care about us." Of course I care. But it's partially out of self-preservation; I don't want one of them to get a concussion and be impaired in the case of an emergency. Patricia warmed up to me a bit after that encounter; Andrew treated me like some sort of saint.
Breakfast was unexciting. I was surprised that there was no hot option nor cereal. I would have liked the latter. But I had a "Continental" breakfast, with the usual greasy croissants (no cinnamon rolls ☹ ). Actually, the greasy "croissants" aren't so bad after a long flight. I would have liked an espresso, but the erstwhile Continental espresso was never very good anyway.
A first for me at Frankfurt: we arrived at an actual gate! No bus.
As we waited to disembark, Andrew became much more animated, probably relieved that the flight was over. I still think he was dodging Patricia, but perhaps that's a soap opera that exists only in my mind. He was surprised that I wasn't German (I have no accent at all—then again, many Germans don't either. Somehow I must look the part.)
Frankfurt
Another first: passengers arriving from the US are now considered "sterile," so one need not re-clear security. This meant that I didn't have to reshuffle the amenity kit contents or wait in any security lines. This is an awesome new change.
There was about a ten-minute wait at immigration. No questions asked; just a stamp. There is a hand luggage customs "station," but they didn't seem to be stopping anyone.
Of course I had voice mails from work when I landed. All of my email and voice mail had "out of office" messages, but that wasn't going to stop anyone. I'm sure you've all been there. I "took the high road" and returned the calls, well aware that I wouldn't be able to offer any reasonable solutions.
21 December 2013
Lufthansa 170
Frankfurt-Berlin/Tegel
A321
Seat 1C
No time for the lounge. We were almost ready for boarding (I had a short connection). As expected, boarding was a free-for-all, but it didn't seem to matter.
I know that Americans complain about the lack of "real" first class seats on European carriers, but they compensate with good food and good service. Also, nobody else was sitting in my row.
The lead flight attendant had already memorized my name before I sat down. I was offered coffee, newspapers, etc. as we prepared to depart.
We had about a ten-minute wait for de-icing, but made a quick taxi thereafter.
Once inflight, I was offered a beautiful breakfast. There was no menu, but it included a sort of tropical fruit quark or yogurt, warm roll with jam, delicious orange juice, etc. all during a less than one hour flight.
We were at Tegel in no time at all. There was perhaps a ten-minute wait for bags, but mine were some of the first to come off of the belt.
Berlin
This was one of the best trips in my life. I'd been to Berlin twice in the past: once when it was divided, then shortly after reunification. It remains a lively, fascinating, and friendly place. It's much cleaner than I remember it; and there was a much stronger sense of wealth (perhaps it was just the Russian tourists going shopping.)
I spent an extraordinary amount of time hanging out with my friends, drinking coffee and beer, and catching up. Why do I have more friends in Berlin than I do in Washington? Let's not dwell on that.
The trip featured Bach's Weihnachtsoratorium at the Kaiser-Wilelm-Gedächtniskirche, the old Stasi Headquarters in Normannenstraße, the Holocaust Memorial, Museum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie, among other sites.
One of the highlights was paying the bill in a restaurant. The receipt said, "Ihr Kellner war: Herr Honig" ("Your waiter was: Mr. Honey.")
Tegel
I was really quite sad to leave Berlin, but I did want to see my family. So I guess it was a bittersweet departure.
Tegel remains one of the greatest airports in the world. I'm not exactly broken-hearted about the delays with the new airport. Maybe I'll get to go back to Tegel before it closes. The design is so brilliantly compact. The walk from the car to the plane is a matter of a few feet. It's incredible.
I actually did visit the Lufthansa Senator Lounge, which featured some sort of caramel mousse. I would like more of this immediately, preferably on tap. The lounge itself is nothing great (especially the bathrooms), but the caramel mousse obviously had crack cocaine in it. Wow, that stuff was good!
Security was completely painless, and we were boarding just as I reached the gate.
24 December 2012
Brussels Airlines 2582
Berlin Tegel-Brussels National/Zaventem
Avro RJ-100
Seat 1D
My flight was listed as an A319. In fact, "Flight Board" and "Flight Tracker" showed it as an Airbus. Maybe it was an A319, but someone accidentally super-glued the wing on top of the airplane and added two extra engines.
I hadn't flown on an Avro since Business Express had them for a while when I was in college in Boston. I actually find them nice in a Fischer-Price sort of way. They're nicer than an ERJ-145 or a CRJ.
There was only one row of Business Class, and I was the only passenger in that "cabin."
The lead flight attendant, "Lisbeth," had an impressive Oxford accent. It wasn't pretentious, just remarkable. I did want to ask her if she had a dragon tattoo, but I don't think she would have caught on.
There were two additional cabin crew, but they tended to stay in the back.
The service was quite good. It was much friendlier than Sabena (this is not hard to accomplish.) Lisbeth served me a large cold plate of grilled chicken, potato salad, beautiful cheese, warm rolls, and Neuhaus chocolates.
As I was disembarking, Lisbeth asked if I had a connection. She explained that she would be joining me to Geneva, and looked forward to seeing me soon.
Brussels Airport
The Brussels Airlines lounge is just like any other. The staff were cheery, the bar was open, and it wasn't noisy. Each passenger is allotted 60 minutes of WiFi. This would have annoyed me in the event that I had a longer layover.
The lounge has no bathrooms; one has to exit the multiple lounge "reception desks" and go to the public area of the airport. The bathrooms were pretty disgusting.
The airport itself was ghost town, except for a Vueling flight to Valencia. The US and African departures were long gone, so there were just a handful of planes at the entire airport.
Brussels Airlines 2719
Brussels National/Zaventem-Geneva
Avro RJ-100
Seat 1C
Boarding was once again a free-for-all despite announcements about the "priority lane."
Lisbeth lit up as I returned on board, apologizing profusely that there was no closet in which to hang my jacket.
The meal was more of a "snack" on this flight: some fruit, cheese, and an extreme amount of Neuhaus chocolate (Lisbeth kept feeding me more of it.)
I'd had my hopes (or hops) up for a good Belgian beer, but they only had Jupiler. At least it wasn't United's frat party selection.
Despite our on-time arrival, there was a 20-minute wait for bags. Considering that six of my other relatives had their bags lost or delayed, I have no right to complain (they were coming from Paris and D.C.)
After some searching, I found my family outside of customs, and we were off to the alps.
Geneva and Environs
I shared a room with my five- and eight-year-old niece and nephew. Each morning they would ask, "Tonton? Are you awake?" and then climb into bed with me, only to fall back asleep. I enjoyed reading to them, and they really just wanted to see photos of my dog.
There were plenty of Lego- and sledding-related activities. I had a chance to catch up with my cousins, drink too much wine, and feast on Raclette. I also think I ate the best pain aux raisins I've ever consumed.
Due to the lost luggage, we didn't go skiing. But it was okay; I was happy to just take it easy.
Also, the house did not catch on fire, for which I am thankful.
26 December 2012
Lufthansa 1221
Geneva-Frankfurt
B737-500
Seat 1C
As I had done last year, I decided to spend the night at the Frankfurt Airport. This eliminates the need for a very early morning departure from Geneva, and it gives me at least one night in a real bed without the whole carbon monoxide thing.
For whatever reason, I had remembered that online check-in is with Swiss, not Lufthansa. Every time I would pull up my reservation on the Lufthansa site (or mobile app) it would say that there was no reservation. Then I had this flashback, and remembered to try the Swiss web site. It's kind of strange, because check-in is almost always with the operating carrier. The only other time this used to happen was with Northwest out of Paris; you had to use the KLM or Air France web site.
Not that it mattered. The airport was reasonably quiet, and there was no line to check-in.
My sister and one of my cousins wished me farewell, and off I went.
Security was painless thanks to the priority lane (it would have been pretty awful otherwise.)
I went to the Swiss Business Lounge, which I knew was problematic. WiFi is available only to those with European mobile phones, and there are no bathrooms in the lounge. At least it was calm and quiet. The food did not look appealing, and the coffee was terrible.
I was pleased to have another on-time departure. Once again, "priority" boarding was ignored, but the 735 is a small airplane, and it really didn't matter.
The all-male crew introduced themselves as "Herr," but the guy serving the business class section introduced himself to us as "Patrick."
Once again, Lufthansa had an astonishing array of food for such a short flight:
We had the unsurprising misfortune of a bus gate, but it was a small plane with a small load, so it really didn't take much time at all. Above all, my bags were waiting for me when I arrived.
Sheraton Frankfurt Airport
This is by no means an inexpensive place to stay. The rates had gone up since last year, but I couldn't turn down the opportunity to have a nice bed immediately connected to the airport.
I was given a room across the hall from the room I had last year. It was substantially smaller, but massive by European standards.
The staff were unerringly polite, and I had snacks in the Towers Lounge, which is inevitably filled with Federal Air Marshalls, who make no effort to be quiet guests nor to keep their occupation under wraps. This particular crowd was in pretty awful physical condition as well. (I should be less judgemental, considering the caramel mousse incident in Berlin.)
The Sheraton has no pool, but a very nice gym, which I used twice during my stay.
Yes, it's extraordinarily costly, but I slept something like 11 hours, and awoke very happy and refreshed. I'd pay to do it again, use Starwood points, or something like that. It absolutely beats a ridiculously early morning flight, and airport hotels with no shuttle busses are a wonderful invention.
Back to the Frankfurt Airport
Due to the gym and breakfast, I sort of cut things a bit close for check-in, but this was no problem.
There was only one person ahead of me in the Premier Access line. The ICTS (called "FIS" in Germany only) lady had only two or three questions, and a friendly Lufthansa agent checked my bags without a fuss.
Unlike previous trips, security was through the "A" (not "Z") checkpoint, which meant a designated Business Class line. The wait was perhaps five minutes. Security was a breeze, and I got to keep my shoes on.
Although there were reports in the paper about Millimeter Wave machines introduced for US departures, there was nothing in sight. If you set off the metal detector, you got "wanded." Otherwise, there was no evidence of full-body scanning, random nonsense, or other indignities.
The Towers Lounge is closed for renovation, and I really had little time before boarding, so I didn't bother with the Senator or Business lounges.
27 December 2012
United 51
Frankfurt-Newark
B767-400ER
Seat 2K
Boarding was kind of a zoo. Once again, for reasons unknown, I did not have to answer any security questions. The woman just said, "Oh, you can go ahead and board." Fine by me. Also, there was no evidence of random gate screening, and we used a real jetway instead of a bus! I was pinching myself.
As has become customary on United, the Purser (CSD, ISM, CSM, or whatever) no longer introduces himself or herself to BusinessFirst passengers. In this case, it was a guy named Hilton, who stayed in Economy Class anyway.
I was served by an unnamed but pleasant Polish flight attendant. She was kind of chilly at first, but warmed up as the flight progressed. The other flight attendant in my section was German, and she was impressively cheerful throughout the flight.
The refurbished 767-400 clarifies that Global First really isn't worth it. I had an entirely comfortable seat, slept like a baby, and the food differed only in that there was no soup or hot appetizer. (Even though that tomato soup is really darn good.)
As is often the case at the end of the month, they ran out of menus, so they just photocopied what they had.
The food was actually excellent. I'd had the Peruvian chicken many times before, and it didn't let me down. The bread was some of the warmest I've had inflight. There was evidence of mid-flight cookies, but I was sound asleep, so I missed that.
I do miss the "Drei Meister" chocolates; they switched to Lily O'Brien, but they're still pretty good.
The BusinessFirst service remains very close to its Continental origins. Service was with sparkling carts, the crew paid close attention to refills, and everything seemed synchronized. Although I've had friendlier crews, they still did an excellent job.
Newark
Upon arrival at Newark, I turned on my phone and "reprinted" my mobile boarding pass. This got me use of the PreCheck line at Newark. It's supposedly forbidden if any flight in an itinerary is international. At that point, however, I think the system realizes that you're like anyone else departing Newark, so there should be no reason to exclude one from PreCheck.
There was a fifteen minute wait for bags, but—thanks go Global Entry—I was through Customs and Immigration within 20 minutes of arrival.
Once upstairs, there were massive, noisy lines for security. Beep, beep, beep, into the PreCheck line, where there was only one person in front of me.
The United Club was surprisingly quiet for a late afternoon. I had a shower (the shower "concierge" always remembers me, and she's always smiling.) Then I made a few phone calls, rehydrated, and slowly made my way to the last flight of the journey.
United 1416
Newark-Seattle/Tacoma
B737-800
Seat 1B
This flight was by far the worst of the trip. I said "hello" to the flight attendant at the door, and she didn't even try to say anything in return.
The crew skipped pre-departure beverages and hanging coats, because that would interfere with complaining that they needed to accomplish. Actually, they complained for five hours and 30 minutes.
I couldn't totally grasp why they were mad. The flight was on time, none of them were flying "by surprise," and there was nothing untoward in the cabin, minimal turbulence, and nothing aberrant about the catering.
Perhaps one of the problems was that the lead flight attendant was large and bossy. "Let me tell you why this is not a transcon," he barked. Another kept complaining that she didn't get the "bid" she wanted, and only had 12 hours of rest before this flight.
I'm a generally very smiley person, and I would always say "please," and "thank you" when ordering dinner, receiving a drink or hot towel, etc. These were met with scowls. Really, it takes talent to turn one's head away after someone smiles and says "thank you."
This crew made a big fuss about being "United operated by Continental," and had a lot of "Ex-Con" regalia. I hate to break the news to them, but the acquisition was in 2010. I know, their paychecks still say "Continental," they have separate contracts, etc., but that's not a reason to be passive aggressive to customers.
They were wearing "International" wings, which means that they were "NTA" crewmembers, and should have significant seniority. They should also have significantly more professionalism. Weren't they once "The most professional men and women in the industry?"
Sitting in the first row, I got to hear their complaints for the entire flight. I thought about saying something, but decided that would be unwise. I did, however, send an email to United.
Dinner consisted of:
Bags, as always at Seattle, took about 15 to 20 minutes.
I'd made the decision to park at the airport itself. Despite the expense, there is nothing better than flying 6,000 miles and getting right into one's car. No shuttle bus. It's probably about $40-50 more expensive, and well worth it.
Conclusions
If I could go back to Berlin tonight, I would. In fact, I'd be willing to go there permanently.
I probably won't see my family again until August, so I enjoyed our brief visit.
United Global First vs BusinessFirst
If you can get on a two-class airplane, stick with BusinessFirst. It's still really comfortable, the food is good, and the service is decent. There just isn't enough of a difference between the two classes of service.
United First (Domestic)
They have issues. I've had a lot of really pleasant flights with them recently, but these two were both pretty awful. I have a trip to Miami via Newark next month. I tried to engineer it to be on legacy United flights, but that wasn't an option. I'm starting to wonder if the legacy United crews are nicer. We'll see. Grumpy behavior on US carriers is nothing new (and my European friends and family are always appalled), but they need to find an employee assistance plan, therapists, antidepressants, or different jobs, which do not involve people.
I wasn't exactly thrilled to be seeing patients on New Year's Eve, but I didn't take it out on them, nor did I complain about how it's the "company's fault." It's better to take the high road.
Lufthansa
Fantastic. Punctual, friendly, warm, with excellent food. I wonder what will happen when domestic flights shift to Germanwings.
Brussels Airlines
Not a bad choice. I think their intra-European business class is superior to Air France/KLM, and on par with many others. Lisbeth was great, and everything was on time.
Frankfurt Airport
They should get a prize for "most improved." I love the quick transfer for Schengen flights, and using the "fast track" security line. Above all, only one flight involved a bus.
Sheraton Frankfurt Airport
Unbelievably pricey, but totally worth it. I'm still not sure why my room was so much smaller than on my previous visit, but that hotel is great. I'm not usually a fan of big, chain hotels, but the "Towers" setup gives the feeling of a smaller property. It is so convenient that it's well worth it.
Frohes neues Jahr! Bonne année! …and happy landings.
I always go to visit my family for "Christmachanukwanzaa" over the winter holidays. We usually have five languages and three religions running simultaneously. No joke. It's like the UN, with a lot more alcohol, sledding, and Legos. Or maybe the UN has more sledding than I realized. I'm not sure.
My relatives have a farmhouse in the Alps. It's beautiful but dangerous. Last year, it caught on fire while we were all there (my cousins, brother-in-law, and I doused the flames with buckets of water.) Also, the "younger generation" (including me) stays in the odd little apartment next door, which I am convinced is heated entirely with carbon monoxide. The choice is to leave the window open and die of hypothermia, or enjoy the asphyxia from the 0.1% oxygen environment.
Meanwhile, a high school friend had been begging me to visit him in Berlin. Another friend had also just moved there, so I had no excuse. I hadn't been to Berlin since 1992, and I knew it was time for a visit.
Since I'd just seen some of my family in Paris over Thanksgiving, I decided on a brief trip to the Alpine Death and Legos House and a longer trip to Berlin.
Fares were exceptionally cheap, and I didn't have any trouble scoring upgrades. Since intra-European flights can be pricey, I used MileagePlus with minimal effort. The flights were wide open.
SEA-TAC
I was definitely not ready for my 6:00 am departure. As much as I plan everything out, I still managed to set off my car alarm, grab the wrong set of keys, etc.
I was also dreading security. SEA-TAC still uses radiation-based scanners, and I had mentally prepared myself for an unpleasant opt-out (no PreCheck for an international trip).
Fortunately, the United Global Services/Global First desk was empty, and a relentlessly cheery Airserv agent had my bags tagged in less than 20 seconds. "You're going a long way!" He exclaimed.
Luckily, there was only about a five-minute wait at security, the staff were kind, and I was surprisingly blessed with metal detector-only treatment. Karma will get back at me somehow, but I was relieved by my good luck.
The United Club (N gates) was deserted. As always, the woman at the desk was lovely (I'd not seen her before; maybe she was providing "vacation coverage").
There was a massive snowstorm threatening to close O'Hare later that day. Fortunately, I was on the early flight to Frankfurt, and there appeared to be no cause for rerouting.
I engulfed a few espressos then headed upstairs.
20 December 2012
United 732
Seattle/Tacoma-Chicago/O'Hare
B737-800
Seat 1B
Meh. The usual. The crew was obviously tired, stressed about carry-ons, and probably worried about getting stuck at O'Hare. They weren’t nasty by any means, but you couldn't crack a smile out of them with a crow bar.
I'd never seen this before, but an unaccompanied minor boarded. The lead flight attendant gave him an individual safety briefing while standing at the doorway. She explained where the exits are located, the use of oxygen masks, etc. I suppose it's a good idea, but this woman was racing through it, clearly annoyed that this was one of her duties. I'm sure that the kid gained nothing from this demonstration.
We had an on-time departure, and had the usual breakfast service of cereal or eggs. I just asked for the "set-up" and had a "Continental" breakfast (or "Ex-Con" breakfast, as they'd probably call it.)
O'Hare
I headed to the Global First Lounge,. I couldn't actually find it. I went to the United Club, where the agent asked for my boarding card. "You missed it," she explained, "It's really well-hidden behind a plant." Indeed it is.
Once inside, a friendly agent welcomed me, asked if I wanted a tour or needed any special assistance. I asked for a shower, and they happily obliged. I was given a nice little kit of toiletries, and had a long, hot, pleasant shower with a heated towel rack.
The lounge itself is no great shakes. I'd been to the Dulles and San Francisco Global First lounges, and this one was fine. It's reasonably quiet, food and drinks are self-serve, but it's not some sort of luxurious oasis. The advantages are the lack of crowds and the showers. Everything else was just sort of acceptable. I'm not saying that I'd turn it down, but it's not "spectacular," to use Jeff Smisek's term from the Dreamliner video.
O'Hare was actually starting to turn into a "cluster." The customer service lines were snaking well into the concourse. Flight after flight was marked "cancelled," but not mine. I took the tunnel over to the "B" gates, where boarding was underway.
United 944
Chicago O'Hare-Frankfurt
B777-200
Seat 1K
An overwhelmingly friendly flight attendant welcomed me on board and took my coat. I was sort of bummed when she disappeared into one of the aft cabins. She was kind of charming.
The seat was equipped with the usual two pillows, big blanket, big amenity kit, and a card explaining "turn down" service. There was also a little "business card" with the technical details of the 777. I'd never seen that before, and I thought it was cute.
The captain impressed me because he spoke some German. I was kind of shocked when he said, "Bitte anschnallen." Maybe that's the only German he spoke, but he had me fooled.
The purser was Patricia. She and Andrew were serving the ten "Global First" passengers this afternoon. Patricia was definitely "no nonsense," but not mean or unpleasant. She didn't introduce herself, call me by name, thank me, or otherwise go out of her way. She just sort of did her job. Andrew was much more engaging, but I gathered that Andrew and Patricia were not exactly bff's
The guy behind me smelled unbelievably awful. We're talking about flashbacks to seeing homeless patients in the ER. I managed to set my gasper vent in such a way that it blew air away from him.
The young couple next to me weren't gems either. The young woman asked if she could forego her special meal because she was tempted by the menu. Patricia told her "No. That would mean that someone else would have to eat your meal." I call b#lls!#t, Patricia. The BusinessFirst and GlobalFirst main courses are the same, so I'm sure that someone, somewhere wasn't eating. On the other hand, if the passenger had been a bit more polite (or asked Andrew), I'm confident that things would have worked out in her favor.
Despite the impending storm, we made an expeditious departure. The captain warned us that it would be extremely turbulent. No kidding. It was really hard to sleep.
Here is the menu, for those interested.
WELCOME ABOARD
We are pleased to offer menu choices that are carefully selected for our premium customers. Our recipes are developed in consultation with our Congress of Chefs throughout the world. We use a variety of seasonal and locally sourced ingredients to enhance your dining experience, and our wines are specially chosen to compliment your meal, so please enjoy.
WILKOMMEN AN BORD
Wir freuen uns, unseren Premium-Gästen einege besonders erlesene Gerichte arbeiten zu können. Unsere Rezepte werden weiteit in Zusammenarbeit mit unserem sogenannten Congress of Chefs enwickeit. Verschiedene saisonfrisched und regional erzeuugte Zutaten bieten Ihnen besonders kulnarisches Erlebnis, das Si emit einem unserer speziall ausgewählten Weine perfekt abrunden können. Guten Appetit.
TO BEGIN
Warm Appetizer
Vegetable spring roll and coconut shrimp skewer with mango chutney
Soup
Roasted Tomato and Red Pepper Bisque
Fresh Seasonal Greens
Roasted tomatoes, Kalamata olives, baby mozzarella and croutons with your choice of blue cheese dressing or balsamic vinaigrette
MAIN COURSE
Short Rib of Beef
Red wine sauce, aji amarillo mashed potatoes, fine green beans and carrots
Tamale-filled Breast of Chicken
Creamy corn sauce, grilled yucca and tomatoes
Tri-color Ravioli
Creamy tomato sauce and asparagus with Parmesan cheese
Executive Dining
If you prefer more time to work or relax, ask a flight attendant about executive dining service. A your request, we will present your main meal followed by dessert based on your schedule.
TO FINISH
International Cheese Selection
Grapes and crackers with Graham's Late Bottled Vintage Port
Dessert
Ice cream with your choice of toppings and assorted petite sweets
PRIOR TO ARRIVAL
Chilled Deli Selection
Brie and Swiss cheeses, Black Forest Ham, Genoa Salami and turkey
Breakfast breads with butter and fruit preserves.
WINE AND BAR SERVICE (Printed in English only)
Champagne
Nicolas Feuillate Brut 2006, Champagne
Still youthful and evolving, Feuillatte's 2006 Champagne has as much citrus as pears and apples, and the classic, nutty notes are just starting to unfold.
White Wine
Joseph Merilot Le Chant des Vignes 2010, Pouilly-Fumé
Not to be confused with Chardonnay-based Pouilly-Fuissé, this 100% Sauvignon Blanc is all citrus, melon and apples with a dry and stony texture.
Red Wine
Paul Jaboulet Ainé Le Jalets 2009, Crozes-Hermitage
A great vintage from a top Rhône Valley producer, this 100% Syrah is fuller, more herbal, mineral-laden and complex than typical wines from the grape.
Dry Creek Vineyard Meritage 2007, Sonoma
A blend of the grapes traditionally associated with Bordeaux, Dry Creek's Meritage is Merlot and Cab-based, and it is packed with finesse and elegance.
Spirits
ABSOLUT Vodka
Bombay Sapphire Dry Gin
Bacardi Superior Light Rum
The Glenlivet Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Dewar's White Label Blended Scotch Whisky
Crown Royal Canadian Whiskey
Jim Beam Black Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Liqueurs and Cognac
Grand Marnier
Courvoisier VSOP Fine Champagne Cognac
DISARONNO Amaretto
Bailey's Irish Cream
Kahlúa
Beer
Budweiser
Miller Lite
Heineken
The soup was by far the best part of the meal. I would happily eat that every day. The Pouilly-Fumé wasn't bad either, and I think I had about half a bottle of that stuff. I've eaten a lot of Continental Airlines tamale chicken in my life, and I never turn it down. The tandoori is better (I had that in Global First in November from Paris to Washington.) The salad and starters were fine. And the sundae was well-prepared. They only use the cart for cheese service; everything else was just prepared in the galley. It's less clutter, but the gleaming carts actually look classier.We are pleased to offer menu choices that are carefully selected for our premium customers. Our recipes are developed in consultation with our Congress of Chefs throughout the world. We use a variety of seasonal and locally sourced ingredients to enhance your dining experience, and our wines are specially chosen to compliment your meal, so please enjoy.
WILKOMMEN AN BORD
Wir freuen uns, unseren Premium-Gästen einege besonders erlesene Gerichte arbeiten zu können. Unsere Rezepte werden weiteit in Zusammenarbeit mit unserem sogenannten Congress of Chefs enwickeit. Verschiedene saisonfrisched und regional erzeuugte Zutaten bieten Ihnen besonders kulnarisches Erlebnis, das Si emit einem unserer speziall ausgewählten Weine perfekt abrunden können. Guten Appetit.
TO BEGIN
Warm Appetizer
Vegetable spring roll and coconut shrimp skewer with mango chutney
Soup
Roasted Tomato and Red Pepper Bisque
Fresh Seasonal Greens
Roasted tomatoes, Kalamata olives, baby mozzarella and croutons with your choice of blue cheese dressing or balsamic vinaigrette
MAIN COURSE
Short Rib of Beef
Red wine sauce, aji amarillo mashed potatoes, fine green beans and carrots
Tamale-filled Breast of Chicken
Creamy corn sauce, grilled yucca and tomatoes
Tri-color Ravioli
Creamy tomato sauce and asparagus with Parmesan cheese
Executive Dining
If you prefer more time to work or relax, ask a flight attendant about executive dining service. A your request, we will present your main meal followed by dessert based on your schedule.
TO FINISH
International Cheese Selection
Grapes and crackers with Graham's Late Bottled Vintage Port
Dessert
Ice cream with your choice of toppings and assorted petite sweets
PRIOR TO ARRIVAL
Chilled Deli Selection
Brie and Swiss cheeses, Black Forest Ham, Genoa Salami and turkey
Breakfast breads with butter and fruit preserves.
WINE AND BAR SERVICE (Printed in English only)
Champagne
Nicolas Feuillate Brut 2006, Champagne
Still youthful and evolving, Feuillatte's 2006 Champagne has as much citrus as pears and apples, and the classic, nutty notes are just starting to unfold.
White Wine
Joseph Merilot Le Chant des Vignes 2010, Pouilly-Fumé
Not to be confused with Chardonnay-based Pouilly-Fuissé, this 100% Sauvignon Blanc is all citrus, melon and apples with a dry and stony texture.
Red Wine
Paul Jaboulet Ainé Le Jalets 2009, Crozes-Hermitage
A great vintage from a top Rhône Valley producer, this 100% Syrah is fuller, more herbal, mineral-laden and complex than typical wines from the grape.
Dry Creek Vineyard Meritage 2007, Sonoma
A blend of the grapes traditionally associated with Bordeaux, Dry Creek's Meritage is Merlot and Cab-based, and it is packed with finesse and elegance.
Spirits
ABSOLUT Vodka
Bombay Sapphire Dry Gin
Bacardi Superior Light Rum
The Glenlivet Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Dewar's White Label Blended Scotch Whisky
Crown Royal Canadian Whiskey
Jim Beam Black Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Liqueurs and Cognac
Grand Marnier
Courvoisier VSOP Fine Champagne Cognac
DISARONNO Amaretto
Bailey's Irish Cream
Kahlúa
Beer
Budweiser
Miller Lite
Heineken
The alcohol selection has taken a nosedive. I'll never forgive the bean counters who took away Campari and Vermouth. And Miller Lite is considered appropriate for "Global First?" Is this a revival of Hooters Air? A frat party? Will there be hazing rituals? Beer pong in the main cabin? Will I be asked to "pledge?" On second thought, I'm not entirely against this idea. It could make a long flight more interesting.
Speaking of nosedives, it was extremely turbulent. Patricia and Andrew were trying desperately not to get attacked by carts. They had to do some acrobatics to keep themselves from getting hurt. During a quiet spell, I got up and asked if they were okay. They were both shocked that I would care. "We had some close calls," they explained, "you're so sweet to care about us." Of course I care. But it's partially out of self-preservation; I don't want one of them to get a concussion and be impaired in the case of an emergency. Patricia warmed up to me a bit after that encounter; Andrew treated me like some sort of saint.
Breakfast was unexciting. I was surprised that there was no hot option nor cereal. I would have liked the latter. But I had a "Continental" breakfast, with the usual greasy croissants (no cinnamon rolls ☹ ). Actually, the greasy "croissants" aren't so bad after a long flight. I would have liked an espresso, but the erstwhile Continental espresso was never very good anyway.
A first for me at Frankfurt: we arrived at an actual gate! No bus.
As we waited to disembark, Andrew became much more animated, probably relieved that the flight was over. I still think he was dodging Patricia, but perhaps that's a soap opera that exists only in my mind. He was surprised that I wasn't German (I have no accent at all—then again, many Germans don't either. Somehow I must look the part.)
Frankfurt
Another first: passengers arriving from the US are now considered "sterile," so one need not re-clear security. This meant that I didn't have to reshuffle the amenity kit contents or wait in any security lines. This is an awesome new change.
There was about a ten-minute wait at immigration. No questions asked; just a stamp. There is a hand luggage customs "station," but they didn't seem to be stopping anyone.
Of course I had voice mails from work when I landed. All of my email and voice mail had "out of office" messages, but that wasn't going to stop anyone. I'm sure you've all been there. I "took the high road" and returned the calls, well aware that I wouldn't be able to offer any reasonable solutions.
21 December 2013
Lufthansa 170
Frankfurt-Berlin/Tegel
A321
Seat 1C
No time for the lounge. We were almost ready for boarding (I had a short connection). As expected, boarding was a free-for-all, but it didn't seem to matter.
I know that Americans complain about the lack of "real" first class seats on European carriers, but they compensate with good food and good service. Also, nobody else was sitting in my row.
The lead flight attendant had already memorized my name before I sat down. I was offered coffee, newspapers, etc. as we prepared to depart.
We had about a ten-minute wait for de-icing, but made a quick taxi thereafter.
Once inflight, I was offered a beautiful breakfast. There was no menu, but it included a sort of tropical fruit quark or yogurt, warm roll with jam, delicious orange juice, etc. all during a less than one hour flight.
We were at Tegel in no time at all. There was perhaps a ten-minute wait for bags, but mine were some of the first to come off of the belt.
Berlin
This was one of the best trips in my life. I'd been to Berlin twice in the past: once when it was divided, then shortly after reunification. It remains a lively, fascinating, and friendly place. It's much cleaner than I remember it; and there was a much stronger sense of wealth (perhaps it was just the Russian tourists going shopping.)
I spent an extraordinary amount of time hanging out with my friends, drinking coffee and beer, and catching up. Why do I have more friends in Berlin than I do in Washington? Let's not dwell on that.
The trip featured Bach's Weihnachtsoratorium at the Kaiser-Wilelm-Gedächtniskirche, the old Stasi Headquarters in Normannenstraße, the Holocaust Memorial, Museum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie, among other sites.
One of the highlights was paying the bill in a restaurant. The receipt said, "Ihr Kellner war: Herr Honig" ("Your waiter was: Mr. Honey.")
Tegel
I was really quite sad to leave Berlin, but I did want to see my family. So I guess it was a bittersweet departure.
Tegel remains one of the greatest airports in the world. I'm not exactly broken-hearted about the delays with the new airport. Maybe I'll get to go back to Tegel before it closes. The design is so brilliantly compact. The walk from the car to the plane is a matter of a few feet. It's incredible.
I actually did visit the Lufthansa Senator Lounge, which featured some sort of caramel mousse. I would like more of this immediately, preferably on tap. The lounge itself is nothing great (especially the bathrooms), but the caramel mousse obviously had crack cocaine in it. Wow, that stuff was good!
Security was completely painless, and we were boarding just as I reached the gate.
24 December 2012
Brussels Airlines 2582
Berlin Tegel-Brussels National/Zaventem
Avro RJ-100
Seat 1D
My flight was listed as an A319. In fact, "Flight Board" and "Flight Tracker" showed it as an Airbus. Maybe it was an A319, but someone accidentally super-glued the wing on top of the airplane and added two extra engines.
I hadn't flown on an Avro since Business Express had them for a while when I was in college in Boston. I actually find them nice in a Fischer-Price sort of way. They're nicer than an ERJ-145 or a CRJ.
There was only one row of Business Class, and I was the only passenger in that "cabin."
The lead flight attendant, "Lisbeth," had an impressive Oxford accent. It wasn't pretentious, just remarkable. I did want to ask her if she had a dragon tattoo, but I don't think she would have caught on.
There were two additional cabin crew, but they tended to stay in the back.
The service was quite good. It was much friendlier than Sabena (this is not hard to accomplish.) Lisbeth served me a large cold plate of grilled chicken, potato salad, beautiful cheese, warm rolls, and Neuhaus chocolates.
As I was disembarking, Lisbeth asked if I had a connection. She explained that she would be joining me to Geneva, and looked forward to seeing me soon.
Brussels Airport
The Brussels Airlines lounge is just like any other. The staff were cheery, the bar was open, and it wasn't noisy. Each passenger is allotted 60 minutes of WiFi. This would have annoyed me in the event that I had a longer layover.
The lounge has no bathrooms; one has to exit the multiple lounge "reception desks" and go to the public area of the airport. The bathrooms were pretty disgusting.
The airport itself was ghost town, except for a Vueling flight to Valencia. The US and African departures were long gone, so there were just a handful of planes at the entire airport.
Brussels Airlines 2719
Brussels National/Zaventem-Geneva
Avro RJ-100
Seat 1C
Boarding was once again a free-for-all despite announcements about the "priority lane."
Lisbeth lit up as I returned on board, apologizing profusely that there was no closet in which to hang my jacket.
The meal was more of a "snack" on this flight: some fruit, cheese, and an extreme amount of Neuhaus chocolate (Lisbeth kept feeding me more of it.)
I'd had my hopes (or hops) up for a good Belgian beer, but they only had Jupiler. At least it wasn't United's frat party selection.
Despite our on-time arrival, there was a 20-minute wait for bags. Considering that six of my other relatives had their bags lost or delayed, I have no right to complain (they were coming from Paris and D.C.)
After some searching, I found my family outside of customs, and we were off to the alps.
Geneva and Environs
I shared a room with my five- and eight-year-old niece and nephew. Each morning they would ask, "Tonton? Are you awake?" and then climb into bed with me, only to fall back asleep. I enjoyed reading to them, and they really just wanted to see photos of my dog.
There were plenty of Lego- and sledding-related activities. I had a chance to catch up with my cousins, drink too much wine, and feast on Raclette. I also think I ate the best pain aux raisins I've ever consumed.
Due to the lost luggage, we didn't go skiing. But it was okay; I was happy to just take it easy.
Also, the house did not catch on fire, for which I am thankful.
26 December 2012
Lufthansa 1221
Geneva-Frankfurt
B737-500
Seat 1C
As I had done last year, I decided to spend the night at the Frankfurt Airport. This eliminates the need for a very early morning departure from Geneva, and it gives me at least one night in a real bed without the whole carbon monoxide thing.
For whatever reason, I had remembered that online check-in is with Swiss, not Lufthansa. Every time I would pull up my reservation on the Lufthansa site (or mobile app) it would say that there was no reservation. Then I had this flashback, and remembered to try the Swiss web site. It's kind of strange, because check-in is almost always with the operating carrier. The only other time this used to happen was with Northwest out of Paris; you had to use the KLM or Air France web site.
Not that it mattered. The airport was reasonably quiet, and there was no line to check-in.
My sister and one of my cousins wished me farewell, and off I went.
Security was painless thanks to the priority lane (it would have been pretty awful otherwise.)
I went to the Swiss Business Lounge, which I knew was problematic. WiFi is available only to those with European mobile phones, and there are no bathrooms in the lounge. At least it was calm and quiet. The food did not look appealing, and the coffee was terrible.
I was pleased to have another on-time departure. Once again, "priority" boarding was ignored, but the 735 is a small airplane, and it really didn't matter.
The all-male crew introduced themselves as "Herr," but the guy serving the business class section introduced himself to us as "Patrick."
Once again, Lufthansa had an astonishing array of food for such a short flight:
Unsere Lieblingsgerichte
Our favorite dishes
Genießen Sie die Liebligsgerichte von „essen & trinken" und Lufthansa.
Wilkommen in der Lufthansa Business Class. Heute möchtenwir Sie einladen, Lieblingsgerichte aus dem Repertoire von „essen & trinken" zu erleben. Genießen Sie die köstlichen Rezepte von Deutschlands größtem Food-Magazin und Lufthansa in unseren aktuellen Menüs. Guten Appetit.
Enjoy the favorite dishes from „essen & trinken" magazine and Lufthansa.
Welcome to Lufthansa Business Class. Today we would like to invite you to experience the most popular dishes from the "essen & trinken" repertoire. Savor the delicious recipes from Germany's leading food magazine and Lufthansa in our current menus. Bon appetit!
Rehnschinken und Waldorfsalat
Venison Prosciutto and Waldorf Salad
Kalte Erbensuppe mit Garnelen und Sauerrahm
Cold pea soup with shrimps and sour cream
Brie mit Trüffeletter gefüllt, Peporonata
Brie cheese with truffle better filling, peporonata
Pistazien-Ingwer Marzipanschnitte
Pistachio-ginger marzipan pastry
The truffle-filled brie was fantastic. Patrick got me a Warsteiner, and soon we had landed in Frankfurt.Our favorite dishes
Genießen Sie die Liebligsgerichte von „essen & trinken" und Lufthansa.
Wilkommen in der Lufthansa Business Class. Heute möchtenwir Sie einladen, Lieblingsgerichte aus dem Repertoire von „essen & trinken" zu erleben. Genießen Sie die köstlichen Rezepte von Deutschlands größtem Food-Magazin und Lufthansa in unseren aktuellen Menüs. Guten Appetit.
Enjoy the favorite dishes from „essen & trinken" magazine and Lufthansa.
Welcome to Lufthansa Business Class. Today we would like to invite you to experience the most popular dishes from the "essen & trinken" repertoire. Savor the delicious recipes from Germany's leading food magazine and Lufthansa in our current menus. Bon appetit!
Rehnschinken und Waldorfsalat
Venison Prosciutto and Waldorf Salad
Kalte Erbensuppe mit Garnelen und Sauerrahm
Cold pea soup with shrimps and sour cream
Brie mit Trüffeletter gefüllt, Peporonata
Brie cheese with truffle better filling, peporonata
Pistazien-Ingwer Marzipanschnitte
Pistachio-ginger marzipan pastry
We had the unsurprising misfortune of a bus gate, but it was a small plane with a small load, so it really didn't take much time at all. Above all, my bags were waiting for me when I arrived.
Sheraton Frankfurt Airport
This is by no means an inexpensive place to stay. The rates had gone up since last year, but I couldn't turn down the opportunity to have a nice bed immediately connected to the airport.
I was given a room across the hall from the room I had last year. It was substantially smaller, but massive by European standards.
The staff were unerringly polite, and I had snacks in the Towers Lounge, which is inevitably filled with Federal Air Marshalls, who make no effort to be quiet guests nor to keep their occupation under wraps. This particular crowd was in pretty awful physical condition as well. (I should be less judgemental, considering the caramel mousse incident in Berlin.)
The Sheraton has no pool, but a very nice gym, which I used twice during my stay.
Yes, it's extraordinarily costly, but I slept something like 11 hours, and awoke very happy and refreshed. I'd pay to do it again, use Starwood points, or something like that. It absolutely beats a ridiculously early morning flight, and airport hotels with no shuttle busses are a wonderful invention.
Back to the Frankfurt Airport
Due to the gym and breakfast, I sort of cut things a bit close for check-in, but this was no problem.
There was only one person ahead of me in the Premier Access line. The ICTS (called "FIS" in Germany only) lady had only two or three questions, and a friendly Lufthansa agent checked my bags without a fuss.
Unlike previous trips, security was through the "A" (not "Z") checkpoint, which meant a designated Business Class line. The wait was perhaps five minutes. Security was a breeze, and I got to keep my shoes on.
Although there were reports in the paper about Millimeter Wave machines introduced for US departures, there was nothing in sight. If you set off the metal detector, you got "wanded." Otherwise, there was no evidence of full-body scanning, random nonsense, or other indignities.
The Towers Lounge is closed for renovation, and I really had little time before boarding, so I didn't bother with the Senator or Business lounges.
27 December 2012
United 51
Frankfurt-Newark
B767-400ER
Seat 2K
Boarding was kind of a zoo. Once again, for reasons unknown, I did not have to answer any security questions. The woman just said, "Oh, you can go ahead and board." Fine by me. Also, there was no evidence of random gate screening, and we used a real jetway instead of a bus! I was pinching myself.
As has become customary on United, the Purser (CSD, ISM, CSM, or whatever) no longer introduces himself or herself to BusinessFirst passengers. In this case, it was a guy named Hilton, who stayed in Economy Class anyway.
I was served by an unnamed but pleasant Polish flight attendant. She was kind of chilly at first, but warmed up as the flight progressed. The other flight attendant in my section was German, and she was impressively cheerful throughout the flight.
The refurbished 767-400 clarifies that Global First really isn't worth it. I had an entirely comfortable seat, slept like a baby, and the food differed only in that there was no soup or hot appetizer. (Even though that tomato soup is really darn good.)
As is often the case at the end of the month, they ran out of menus, so they just photocopied what they had.
MAIN COURSE
Tenderloin of Beef
Marsala wine sauce, chive mashed potatoes, carrots and sugar snap peas
Peruvian-style Breast of Chicken
Vegetable quinoa, sautéed spinach and bell peppers
Fillet of Salmon and Shrimp
Balsamic vegetable sauce and herbed couscous
Four-cheese Ravioli
Pear and honey sauce with Parmesan cheese
Executive Dining
If you prefer more time to work or relax, ask a flight attendant about executive dining service. A your request, we will present your main meal followed by dessert based on your schedule.
TO FINISH
International Cheese Selection
Grapes and crackers with Noval Fine Ruby Port
Dessert
Ice cream with your choice of toppings
MID-FLIGHT SNACK
Fruit and light snacks are available at any time following the meal service. Please help yourself or ask a flight attendant for today's selection.
PRIOR TO ARRIVAL
Chicken Flat Bread Wrap
There was no wine list. I felt like beer, but—due to cutbacks—United no longer boards local beers. I stuck with Heineken. Tenderloin of Beef
Marsala wine sauce, chive mashed potatoes, carrots and sugar snap peas
Peruvian-style Breast of Chicken
Vegetable quinoa, sautéed spinach and bell peppers
Fillet of Salmon and Shrimp
Balsamic vegetable sauce and herbed couscous
Four-cheese Ravioli
Pear and honey sauce with Parmesan cheese
Executive Dining
If you prefer more time to work or relax, ask a flight attendant about executive dining service. A your request, we will present your main meal followed by dessert based on your schedule.
TO FINISH
International Cheese Selection
Grapes and crackers with Noval Fine Ruby Port
Dessert
Ice cream with your choice of toppings
MID-FLIGHT SNACK
Fruit and light snacks are available at any time following the meal service. Please help yourself or ask a flight attendant for today's selection.
PRIOR TO ARRIVAL
Chicken Flat Bread Wrap
The food was actually excellent. I'd had the Peruvian chicken many times before, and it didn't let me down. The bread was some of the warmest I've had inflight. There was evidence of mid-flight cookies, but I was sound asleep, so I missed that.
I do miss the "Drei Meister" chocolates; they switched to Lily O'Brien, but they're still pretty good.
The BusinessFirst service remains very close to its Continental origins. Service was with sparkling carts, the crew paid close attention to refills, and everything seemed synchronized. Although I've had friendlier crews, they still did an excellent job.
Newark
Upon arrival at Newark, I turned on my phone and "reprinted" my mobile boarding pass. This got me use of the PreCheck line at Newark. It's supposedly forbidden if any flight in an itinerary is international. At that point, however, I think the system realizes that you're like anyone else departing Newark, so there should be no reason to exclude one from PreCheck.
There was a fifteen minute wait for bags, but—thanks go Global Entry—I was through Customs and Immigration within 20 minutes of arrival.
Once upstairs, there were massive, noisy lines for security. Beep, beep, beep, into the PreCheck line, where there was only one person in front of me.
The United Club was surprisingly quiet for a late afternoon. I had a shower (the shower "concierge" always remembers me, and she's always smiling.) Then I made a few phone calls, rehydrated, and slowly made my way to the last flight of the journey.
United 1416
Newark-Seattle/Tacoma
B737-800
Seat 1B
This flight was by far the worst of the trip. I said "hello" to the flight attendant at the door, and she didn't even try to say anything in return.
The crew skipped pre-departure beverages and hanging coats, because that would interfere with complaining that they needed to accomplish. Actually, they complained for five hours and 30 minutes.
I couldn't totally grasp why they were mad. The flight was on time, none of them were flying "by surprise," and there was nothing untoward in the cabin, minimal turbulence, and nothing aberrant about the catering.
Perhaps one of the problems was that the lead flight attendant was large and bossy. "Let me tell you why this is not a transcon," he barked. Another kept complaining that she didn't get the "bid" she wanted, and only had 12 hours of rest before this flight.
I'm a generally very smiley person, and I would always say "please," and "thank you" when ordering dinner, receiving a drink or hot towel, etc. These were met with scowls. Really, it takes talent to turn one's head away after someone smiles and says "thank you."
This crew made a big fuss about being "United operated by Continental," and had a lot of "Ex-Con" regalia. I hate to break the news to them, but the acquisition was in 2010. I know, their paychecks still say "Continental," they have separate contracts, etc., but that's not a reason to be passive aggressive to customers.
They were wearing "International" wings, which means that they were "NTA" crewmembers, and should have significant seniority. They should also have significantly more professionalism. Weren't they once "The most professional men and women in the industry?"
Sitting in the first row, I got to hear their complaints for the entire flight. I thought about saying something, but decided that would be unwise. I did, however, send an email to United.
Dinner consisted of:
Cold nuts
Salad with honey mustard dressing
Grilled chicken with a spicy sauce, rice, and green beans
OR
Pasta with tomato sauce and vegetables
Cheap, melted ice cream with syrup (not hot fudge), and whichever toppings you didn't order
No snack basket (the crew were too busy eating out of it, and drinking out of glassware.)
We landed significantly early, but had to wait about 15 minutes for a gate. Nobody seemed to mind that much, and I was surprised that nobody tried to get up while we waited on the taxiway.Salad with honey mustard dressing
Grilled chicken with a spicy sauce, rice, and green beans
OR
Pasta with tomato sauce and vegetables
Cheap, melted ice cream with syrup (not hot fudge), and whichever toppings you didn't order
No snack basket (the crew were too busy eating out of it, and drinking out of glassware.)
Bags, as always at Seattle, took about 15 to 20 minutes.
I'd made the decision to park at the airport itself. Despite the expense, there is nothing better than flying 6,000 miles and getting right into one's car. No shuttle bus. It's probably about $40-50 more expensive, and well worth it.
Conclusions
If I could go back to Berlin tonight, I would. In fact, I'd be willing to go there permanently.
I probably won't see my family again until August, so I enjoyed our brief visit.
United Global First vs BusinessFirst
If you can get on a two-class airplane, stick with BusinessFirst. It's still really comfortable, the food is good, and the service is decent. There just isn't enough of a difference between the two classes of service.
United First (Domestic)
They have issues. I've had a lot of really pleasant flights with them recently, but these two were both pretty awful. I have a trip to Miami via Newark next month. I tried to engineer it to be on legacy United flights, but that wasn't an option. I'm starting to wonder if the legacy United crews are nicer. We'll see. Grumpy behavior on US carriers is nothing new (and my European friends and family are always appalled), but they need to find an employee assistance plan, therapists, antidepressants, or different jobs, which do not involve people.
I wasn't exactly thrilled to be seeing patients on New Year's Eve, but I didn't take it out on them, nor did I complain about how it's the "company's fault." It's better to take the high road.
Lufthansa
Fantastic. Punctual, friendly, warm, with excellent food. I wonder what will happen when domestic flights shift to Germanwings.
Brussels Airlines
Not a bad choice. I think their intra-European business class is superior to Air France/KLM, and on par with many others. Lisbeth was great, and everything was on time.
Frankfurt Airport
They should get a prize for "most improved." I love the quick transfer for Schengen flights, and using the "fast track" security line. Above all, only one flight involved a bus.
Sheraton Frankfurt Airport
Unbelievably pricey, but totally worth it. I'm still not sure why my room was so much smaller than on my previous visit, but that hotel is great. I'm not usually a fan of big, chain hotels, but the "Towers" setup gives the feeling of a smaller property. It is so convenient that it's well worth it.
Frohes neues Jahr! Bonne année! …and happy landings.
Last edited by Mats; Jan 3, 2013 at 5:06 am
Jan 1, 2013, 1:38 pm
#2
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: New Orleans (MSY)
Programs: AA EXP, IHG PLT, Hilton Gold, Hyatt Explorist, Amtrak, WN
Posts: 2,617
Fantastic trip report!
I was in Berlin for study abroad this summer, and I must say that it quickly became one of my favorite cities in the world. The perfect mix of modernity and history, I think. It was easy to get around on their wonderful transit network. I was a little disappointed with the Holocaust Memorial due to its tacit nature, but then again I guess the Germans are still reticent about those events. Did you ever make it out to the Berlin Wall Gallery? That part of town seemed to be a bit shadier... Also, the USSR War Memorial is great to take shelter under in the event that you get caught in a torrential downpour.
Also, I must concur with your experiences on UAL Domestic F. I flew CO before the UA-CO merger led to all these "bigger and better things" (at least that's what I think they're calling them these days...), and I was very happy with the airline. After the merger took place, I noticed how service went downhill fast! I witnessed crew members being downright mean to passengers, something that would be completely unacceptable in any other line of work in the entire world. I jumped ship to AA, and I am very happy with the airline and the AAdvantage elite program.
I was in Berlin for study abroad this summer, and I must say that it quickly became one of my favorite cities in the world. The perfect mix of modernity and history, I think. It was easy to get around on their wonderful transit network. I was a little disappointed with the Holocaust Memorial due to its tacit nature, but then again I guess the Germans are still reticent about those events. Did you ever make it out to the Berlin Wall Gallery? That part of town seemed to be a bit shadier... Also, the USSR War Memorial is great to take shelter under in the event that you get caught in a torrential downpour.
Also, I must concur with your experiences on UAL Domestic F. I flew CO before the UA-CO merger led to all these "bigger and better things" (at least that's what I think they're calling them these days...), and I was very happy with the airline. After the merger took place, I noticed how service went downhill fast! I witnessed crew members being downright mean to passengers, something that would be completely unacceptable in any other line of work in the entire world. I jumped ship to AA, and I am very happy with the airline and the AAdvantage elite program.
Jan 1, 2013, 3:20 pm
#4
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Geneva, Switzerland
Posts: 247
Thanks for the excellent TR, Mats!
Just a quick note: you may want to check the fares on EasyJet if you fly BER-GVA again. Not a "premium" experience, but affordable, nonstop and once BER finally opens, they will be using the same airport as all other carriers - currently they serve SXF, which is such a dump that it's almost worthwhile to experience it once.
Question: was it so much cheaper to route your return GVA-FRA-EWR-SEA vs. GVA-IAD-SEA? Or do you just really like the Sheraton at FRA?
Just a quick note: you may want to check the fares on EasyJet if you fly BER-GVA again. Not a "premium" experience, but affordable, nonstop and once BER finally opens, they will be using the same airport as all other carriers - currently they serve SXF, which is such a dump that it's almost worthwhile to experience it once.
Question: was it so much cheaper to route your return GVA-FRA-EWR-SEA vs. GVA-IAD-SEA? Or do you just really like the Sheraton at FRA?
Last edited by Andre; Jan 1, 2013 at 3:42 pm Reason: Fixed mistake (EWR instead of IAD) on return routing question
Jan 1, 2013, 6:55 pm
#6
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Arizona, USA
Posts: 2,403
brewdog11,
Yes, I have been to the USSR War Memorial and the Berlin Wall Gallery. I had seen the landmarks in West Berlin on earlier trips.
The Holocaust Memorial is interesting. In some ways, I like the idea that it's entirely subject to one's own interpretation. I felt, however, that it somehow needed a flame, which typically represents the Holocaust. This was just a different approach.
Indeed, the merger has been troublesome. I've been flying United and Continental since I was about ten years old. I hope that they'll clean up their act. They have valuable hubs, some worthwhile products, and--I think--a good loyalty program. But they need to work on employee morale. I'm sure that Smisek isn't helping.
Joely,
Yes, United has been shopping at Trader Joe's. I guess they want us to feel at home.
Andre,
Indeed, there was an option to fly easyJet from Schönefeld, just as there was a nonstop on Lufthansa. I had to coordinate my flights, however, to arrive at the same time as my sister and her family coming from Paris. The Brussels Airlines option was the only choice, unless I wanted to sit around the Geneva Airport. Actually, I'd kind of like to see Schönefeld sometime, just for the "experience."
The Geneva-Dulles flight was full up front, and the Newark departure is early in the morning. It wasn't so much the Sheraton, it was having a night of sleep before crossing the Atlantic. The Sheraton just happens to be so much easier than any other option. I wasn't really saving any money.
FlyingDoctorwu,
My ED days are from long ago when I lived in Ohio. I've never had the pleasure of Harborview. I specifically remember a patient who was sent to the ED because she was aboard a Greyhound bus and smelled so terrible that they sent her to the hospital. That was unforgettable. Sad in retrospect, completely unpleasant at the time.
Yes, I have been to the USSR War Memorial and the Berlin Wall Gallery. I had seen the landmarks in West Berlin on earlier trips.
The Holocaust Memorial is interesting. In some ways, I like the idea that it's entirely subject to one's own interpretation. I felt, however, that it somehow needed a flame, which typically represents the Holocaust. This was just a different approach.
Indeed, the merger has been troublesome. I've been flying United and Continental since I was about ten years old. I hope that they'll clean up their act. They have valuable hubs, some worthwhile products, and--I think--a good loyalty program. But they need to work on employee morale. I'm sure that Smisek isn't helping.
Joely,
Yes, United has been shopping at Trader Joe's. I guess they want us to feel at home.
Andre,
Indeed, there was an option to fly easyJet from Schönefeld, just as there was a nonstop on Lufthansa. I had to coordinate my flights, however, to arrive at the same time as my sister and her family coming from Paris. The Brussels Airlines option was the only choice, unless I wanted to sit around the Geneva Airport. Actually, I'd kind of like to see Schönefeld sometime, just for the "experience."
The Geneva-Dulles flight was full up front, and the Newark departure is early in the morning. It wasn't so much the Sheraton, it was having a night of sleep before crossing the Atlantic. The Sheraton just happens to be so much easier than any other option. I wasn't really saving any money.
FlyingDoctorwu,
My ED days are from long ago when I lived in Ohio. I've never had the pleasure of Harborview. I specifically remember a patient who was sent to the ED because she was aboard a Greyhound bus and smelled so terrible that they sent her to the hospital. That was unforgettable. Sad in retrospect, completely unpleasant at the time.
Jan 2, 2013, 5:52 pm
#7
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: TXL/SXF
Programs: Hilton Gold, Marriott Platinum, SPG Gold, US/UA Gold, National Executive, Avis First, Accor Platinum
Posts: 130
Enjoyed your report!!
I just moved back from Berlin (back to the US
) mid-December, and Berlin is my favourite city that I've ever lived in. Glad to see you enjoyed the city as well!
But next time, definitely take the time to check out the former East; it's not all bad!
Regards
I just moved back from Berlin (back to the US
) mid-December, and Berlin is my favourite city that I've ever lived in. Glad to see you enjoyed the city as well!But next time, definitely take the time to check out the former East; it's not all bad!
Regards
Jan 3, 2013, 10:15 am
#11
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: LAX
Programs: AA ExPlat, HHonors Diamond
Posts: 1,130
Nice and fun TR, thank you!
I agree - SXF is the dumpiest of dumps, especially considering the country it's in. Experiencing it once maybe the nicest way of saying avoid it at all costs.
Thanks for the excellent TR, Mats!
Just a quick note: you may want to check the fares on EasyJet if you fly BER-GVA again. Not a "premium" experience, but affordable, nonstop and once BER finally opens, they will be using the same airport as all other carriers - currently they serve SXF, which is such a dump that it's almost worthwhile to experience it once.
Just a quick note: you may want to check the fares on EasyJet if you fly BER-GVA again. Not a "premium" experience, but affordable, nonstop and once BER finally opens, they will be using the same airport as all other carriers - currently they serve SXF, which is such a dump that it's almost worthwhile to experience it once.
Jan 3, 2013, 11:57 pm
#13
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: ECP
Programs: DL Diamond
Posts: 1,658
[INDENT]MAIN COURSE
Tenderloin of Beef
Marsala wine sauce, chive mashed potatoes, carrots and sugar snap peas
Peruvian-style Breast of Chicken
Vegetable quinoa, sautéed spinach and bell peppers
Fillet of Salmon and Shrimp
Balsamic vegetable sauce and herbed couscous
Four-cheese Ravioli
Pear and honey sauce with Parmesan cheese
Tenderloin of Beef
Marsala wine sauce, chive mashed potatoes, carrots and sugar snap peas
Peruvian-style Breast of Chicken
Vegetable quinoa, sautéed spinach and bell peppers
Fillet of Salmon and Shrimp
Balsamic vegetable sauce and herbed couscous
Four-cheese Ravioli
Pear and honey sauce with Parmesan cheese
Great TR...very funny & dry sense of humor, which I love.
Jan 4, 2013, 7:38 am
#14
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Arizona, USA
Posts: 2,403
DC777Fan,
At least they got rid of two of the idiotic marketing phrases they've used for decades:
"Warm mixed nuts presented in a ramekin with your favorite cocktail or beverage."
They also no longer describe the salad as a, "contemporary blend of..."
It's hard to think of lettuce as "contemporary," "stuck in its ways," "clutching on to the past, "forward thinking," etc.
-mats
At least they got rid of two of the idiotic marketing phrases they've used for decades:
"Warm mixed nuts presented in a ramekin with your favorite cocktail or beverage."
They also no longer describe the salad as a, "contemporary blend of..."
It's hard to think of lettuce as "contemporary," "stuck in its ways," "clutching on to the past, "forward thinking," etc.
-mats