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Seattle to Tel Aviv on Air Canada Executive First

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Old Jul 1, 2012, 5:29 am
  #1  
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Seattle to Tel Aviv on Air Canada Executive First

Preface
I typically go to Israel every year, but I missed a year due to a job change. Needless to say, I was more than eager to be headed back.

The Pacific Northwest was living up to its rainy and dark reputation, and I was relishing at the thought of blazing desert heat and warm Mediterranean waters.

Having been divorced in April, taking on vast new job responsibilities, etc., a trip out of town seemed like a particularly good idea. I’d been on a few trips to conferences (Chicago, Cleveland, Newark), but those weren’t actual vacations.

Selecting a Carrier
I had my choice of multiple Star Alliance choices from Seattle to Tel Aviv. The past few trips have been on Continental/United via Newark, but their “Z” fares were at least $7,000. Air Canada, however, offered something about $3,500 less than that. As a MileaegePlus Platinum, I—at least in theory—will not lose out on any PQMs. Furthermore, my dad has become an Air Canada loyalist, and encouraged me to give them a try.

My older sister lived in Canada for a while and detested it. My brothers-in-law went to U of T and McGill, and equally hated it. I’ve always liked Canada, but I’ve never lived there. When I told them that I was flying on Air Canada, my brother-in-law said, “There’s no excuse. Don’t even try to defend yourself.” They fly Air France and Air France only.

Sea-Tac
I knew it would be trouble. It was the week of the Fourth of July, and I’d read on FlyerTalk about disasters involving Air Canada check-in. I was entirely unsurprised to find a ”cluster” (you can fill in the rest of that noun yourself) at the United/Air Canada check-in. Just like my last two trips, there was a lot of yelling and confusion.

Following the advice of FlyerTalk, I walked over to the United First Class/Premier check-in. There was still a 15-minute wait (due to passengers with reservation and upgrade issues), but the agent happily checked me in for an Air Canada flight. No questions asked.

Air Canada has no First Class/Star Gold check in of its own, but its ground operations are all handled by United.

Security was similarly crowded, and there was a lot of yelling (this time, it came from contract staff at the entrance, not actual TSA personnel.) It’s a great way to start the day!

The Premier/PreCheck line took about 15 to 20 minutes. The staff were actually quite friendly, and the Travel Document Checker was apologetic because I wasn’t eligible for PreCheck despite using a NEXUS card for ID. She politely smiled and rolled her eyes when I quoted John Pistole, who said, “We’re not yet comfortable with people traveling to Canada.” It’s impossible to find any logic behind this plan.

The full-body ionizing radiation scans were not in use at the premier checkpoint (yippee!) and it was merely a matter of waiting rather than anxiety about a potential need to opt-out. The TSA staff wisely had a friendly, quiet guy making sure that everyone was adequately prepared. It’s so much smarter than yelling. Gold star for this man. He peered over at my laptop and liquids and said, “You know what you’re doing. Have a good trip.”

I had just enough time for a latte and some juice in the United Club. The staff were—as always—welcoming. They took a moment to take care of the document check that is usually handled at the gate. No problems, all smiles.

30 June 2012
Air Canada 540
SEA-YYZ
Seat 1A

Boarding was complex. Somehow the United agent was unaware that that the Embraer 190 has 33 rows of seats, not 32. So United had already conducted voluntary or involuntary denied boarding for three passengers, giving them $300 and first class on the next flight, despite the fact that there were four empty seats.

The United agent wisely chose to let the passengers keep the compensation and upgrades, but it delayed our departure briefly.

The cabin crew were cheerful and organized for the entire flight. I wouldn’t say that they were personable, but they certainly put forth a solid effort. Unlike US carriers (probably due to union regulations,) the crew were quick to help anyone needing assistance with overhead lockers.

I thought that seat 1A was an excellent choice. Plenty of legroom, no neighbors.

Air Canada’s enRoute entertainment was available gate-to-gate, and even included a map display (I love this.)

There was a printed menu:


Welcome aboard. A choice of orange juice or mineral water will be served prior to departure.

Sliced seasonal fruit (a big plate of pineapple, cantaloupe, honeydew, and strawberries)

Yogurt (the same strange stuff they have in the United Club. It’s not inedible; it’s just weird.)

Parsley omelette with chicken sausage, cottage cheese, roasted red skin potatoes and red pepper relish

or

Pancakes with maple butter, chicken sausage and cran-apple compote
Warm breads with butter and preserves


Freshly brewed Second Cup coffee or a selection of tea and herbal teas (served with milk, cream, or lemon)

Oatmeal raisin and chocolate chip cookies baked fresh on board will be served with gourmet vanilla ice cream prior to landing (actually, it was dark chocolate and white chocolate/macadamia with Haagen Dazs)

A cocktail snack and a full selection of beverages are available at all times throughout the flight.

I skipped the main course and just had the setup, which was perfectly adequate. I certainly didn’t pass up the beautiful cookies and Haagen Dazs.
Time passed quickly; I watched two episodes of Frontline, read, and pretty soon we were landing.

Unlike US carriers, light chop does not constitute a reason for Air Canada to illuminate the “fasten seatbelt” sign, so passengers wanting to visit the bathroom, obtain hand luggage, etc. were not punished.

We had a long taxi, but eventually pulled into gate 34.

Toronto/Pearson
I knew that I’d be in store for a long walk. It didn’t actually mind very much.
There is an immigration checkpoint, but there was nobody in line. I had no onward boarding card (United couldn’t print it), but my printed itinerary was sufficient to prove that I was traveling onward.

I ended up chatting with the immigration officer and her colleague. A woman had just been denied boarding because she was getting progressively ill. “I think they made a good choice, don’t you think so, Doctor?” I’m guessing that Global Entry and NEXUS indicated my profession. I concurred that someone very sick at the gate should not embark on anything involving a flying aluminum tube.

I headed to the Maple Leaf Lounge, which wasn’t hard to find nor far away. Despite rumors about poor signage, I didn’t seem to have any trouble.
The receptionist gladly printed my onward boarding card. I also noted that my baggage tag receipt only noted the Tel Aviv flight, not the Seattle-Toronto leg. She put in the bag numbers and called the help desk, later assuring me that there should not be a problem. I’ll find out in a few hours!

Although there had been tragic FlyerTalk reviews of the Maple Leaf Lounge, I found it to be entirely adequate. In fact, the shower was enormous, and it felt great. The staff were accommodating and pleasant, wishing me “Shalom,” as I headed onward.

30 June 2012
Air Canada 84
YYZ-TLV
Seat 7A

The secondary security check for Tel Aviv extremely quick and painless. It is operated by CATSA (i.e. the government rather than a contractor.) It merely involved a single swab of bags and hands. It took less than 10 seconds at the very most. The staff were friendly and wished me a pleasant trip. I’m sure it’s security theatre, but it was entirely unobtrusive.

Although the flight was full, boarding was orderly and friendly. I was standing in line behind a large family with strollers and little kids. They hadn’t signed their passports either. The agent started to usher me past them, but agreed with me that there was no great value in doing so. I ended up chit-chatting with the agent, and it really wasn’t a problem.

Once on board, I found myself completely comfortable in 7A. No neighbors, cocoon-like seat, “mood lighting,” and an aura of spaciousness. Juice, water, and newspapers were readily available during boarding.

Some nitwit failed to board, so we had to wait for her bags to be offloaded.
Fortunately, “D.S.” (the woman who failed to board) didn’t delay us too long, and we made an extremely expeditious taxi and takeoff.

The crew were once again professional, friendly, and accommodating. They weren’t casual and chummy, but certainly warm. It’s worth noting that they were substantially younger than US-based crews who travel to Tel Aviv. Perhaps Air Canada’s seniority system works differently.

There was no “speaker” on board today’s flight, and the purser apologized. There were a lot of people off for Canada Day, so announcements were limited to English and French. The safety video, however, had Hebrew subtitles. I heard very little Hebrew spoken among the passengers, so I don’t think this was a tremendous problem.

Drinks and dinner were served very promptly. Meal orders were taken from revenue passengers first (i.e. me.)

The menu was as follows:

Welcome Aboard
We are pleased to offer you a selection of flavorful and innovative dishes on you flight today.
Thank you for flying Air Canada.
ENJOY YOUR MEAL!

Bienvenue à bord
nous sommes heurex de vous offrir une selection de plats goûteux et unique à bord de votre vol aujourd’hui.
Merci d’avoir choisi Air Canada.
BON APPÉTIT!

ברוכים הבאים
אנו שמתים להציע לצם מבחר תבשילים טעיםים ויצירטיים
.בטיסטנו היום
!בתאוון

DINNER
Appetizer

Pan-seared Scallops and marinated Tiger Prawns served with a Fennel and Dill Salad on Cucumber Carpaccio. (I wouldn’t call it “carpaccio,” but thumbs up for the fennel/dill situation. It was very fresh and very good.)

Salad
Mixed Greens, Peppers, Asiago, Romano and Parmesan served with Balsamic vinaigrette. (Again, two thumbs up. No choice of dressing, as is common among the US carriers, but this was the freshest airplane salad I think I’ve ever consumed. It had a nice smattering of fresh basil. I would have eaten three of these if offered.)

Main Courses
Each meal is served with a selection of fresh Breads with Butter

Grilled AAA Beef Tenderloin presented with Madeira Mushroom Sauce
Garlic mased Potato, Green Beans, Spinach and Shallots

Braised Chicken accompanied by Cumin and Tomato Sauce
jasmine Cilantro Rice and Broccoloni
This was DYN-O-MITE! Spicy, warm, fresh, It was far better than Continental’s Tandoori Chicken, which I really like. I couldn’t stop mopping up the sauce with bread. Well done, Air Canada catering!

Pan-seared Atlantic Salmon offered with Dill Velouté
Pearl Medley of Brown Rice and Black Barley, Daikon Seeds, Carrot, Zucchini, and Parsnip

Risotto with roasted Mushrooms and Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese

Selection of Cheese
Camembert, Yellow Cheddar, and Oka served with Crackers

Choice of Desserts
Sticky Toffee Apple Cranberry Cake with Whipped Cream
Sliced Seasonal Fruit

AT YOUR LEISURE
Choose one or more of the following flight snack options.
Simply ask your flight attendant at anytime between meal services

Grilled Eggplant and Red Pepper Sandwich and mini Bagel with Egg Salad

Vegetable Samosas and Chicken Tenders

Selection of Packaged Snacks and fresh Fruit (always available at the front of the cabin)

PRE-ARRIVAL BREAKFAST
Please note that breakfast will be served approximately 90 minutes prior to arrival. Should you prefer to eat at an earlier time, please inform your flight attendant.

Fresh Orange Juice

Sliced seasonal Fruit

Yogurt

Croissants and Blueberry Muffins with Butter and Preserves

Dill Mackerel and Grape Tomato, Capers and Cucumber

Main Courses
Parsley Omelette offered with Chicken Sausage, Cottage Cheese, roasted Potatoes and Red Pepper Relish

Pancakes with Maple Butter, Cran-apple Compote and Chicken Sausage



Notes on Seats, Meals and Service
1. The seat is great. Angled, flat, and private. I couldn’t ask for anything more. I slept very, very well. I am definitely a fan of the “A” side of the Executive First cabin.

2. The meal service was of extraordinarily high quality. Dessert was a let-down. Although the cake was served warm, it’s not the same as a sundae or ice cream with cookies. (Damn me and my fattening American taste buds.) The cake was also pretty blah. Everything else was perfect.

3. Interestingly, alcohol was served from full bottles, not minis. I found the liquor selection to be quite limited, but the wine more than compensated for this.

4. The Matchbook Syrah was not a pricey wine, but I certainly liked it. I liked it a LOT.

5. The bread was of exceptionally high quality. I shamelessly inhaled two warm mini-baguettes with Quebecois butter. Check plus!

I woke up somewhere over France, fell back asleep for a while, and then awoke again about two hours prior to landing.

I skipped the hot entrees for breakfast; neither one seemed appealing. But the coffee was reasonably strong, and the orange juice tasted good. The yogurt mysteriously contained “probiotics.” I feel fortunate that my stomach has not yet retaliated.

There was an announcement about remaining seated for the last 30 minutes of the flight. This was marginally enforced, and there were no threatening announcements about diversions, congregating in aisles, or anything else that typifies air travel in the USA.

We made a round-about arrival in to Ben Gurion, but this resulted in a short taxi.

Ben Gurion Airport
I raced off the plane, as usual, so as to avoid the long lines at immigration. No such luck. An easyJet plane had just arrived with European tourists, who all seemed rather lost, and definitely not interested in respecting how lines work.

It seemed that many of the European guests did not “know the drill,” couldn’t answer questions, and were referred on to secondary evaluation.
Despite the long wait, the immigration officer greeted me in Hebrew, asked where I was staying, and that was it. “CLUNK!” stamp on my passport, much to the dismay of the easyJetters. A few Swiss and Swedish tourists glared at me.
There is supposedly going to be a Global Entry kiosk at Ben Gurion Airport, but there certainly wasn’t one in sight.

The long wait at immigration meant that my bag was waiting for me, and I hopped in cab instantaneously. Above all, I was happy to see that my bag made it despite the deceptive baggage receipt.

Despite the long wait at immigration and a few traffic jams, I made it from my airplane seat to my hotel room in Jerusalem in less than 90 minutes.

Last edited by Mats; Jul 9, 2012 at 7:41 am
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Old Jul 1, 2012, 10:50 am
  #2  
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Nice report. I'm surprised there isn't a choice of appetizer when the only one to TLV is scallops and prawns.
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Old Jul 1, 2012, 10:57 am
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Eastbay1K,
No kidding. The pmCO flights from Newark always seem to have shellfish on the menu. I asked to skip the appetizer, but it was served anyway. The cucumbers were so good that I really didn't mind. I have no idea how many people decided to forego the shellfish. Considering that it was Shabbat, the most observant Jews wouldn't have been flying anyway.
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Old Jul 1, 2012, 2:40 pm
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Originally Posted by Mats
Eastbay1K,
No kidding. The pmCO flights from Newark always seem to have shellfish on the menu. I asked to skip the appetizer, but it was served anyway. The cucumbers were so good that I really didn't mind. I have no idea how many people decided to forego the shellfish. Considering that it was Shabbat, the most observant Jews wouldn't have been flying anyway.
That is true, but there are plenty that don't eat shellfish, pork, mix meat/milk, etc., even though they aren't kosher. Of course, these same folks have the "Chinese Food" exception to the shellfish and pork, as long as the dish isn't called something like "sweet and sour pork."

I'm just surprised that shellfish is the only appetizer, and there's no selection.
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Old Jul 2, 2012, 8:19 pm
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Great report, as always! Thanks Mats
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Old Jul 2, 2012, 8:26 pm
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Eastbay1K,
There is a great book called The Fortune Cookie Chronicles, which discusses the idea of "safe tref," and why observant Jews ended up eating pork, provided that it was in Chinese food.

The Harmony Hotel, Jerusalem
I'd previously been invariably loyal to the Regency Hotel, a former Hyatt, near Mt. Scopus. I loved the views and its luxurious gym. Above all, it was a bargain. I remember paying just $125 a night in the off season. Unfortunately, the Regency was purchased by Dan Hotels, and rooms are now about USD$400 a night. Judging from the web site, there has not been a dramatic refurbishment, and I can't imagine shelling out that kind of cash.

I decided to take advantage of MileagePlus, which offered, a wide variety of hotel options in Jerusalem. The choice of the Harmony was obvious. It has one of the best locations imaginable: just around the corner from Ben Yehuda street, a quick walk to Mamilla, near the new light rail line, and walking distance to the Old City.

I shelled out some miles and thus paid no cash or taxes for the room. Since it has become so frustrating to spend miles on plane tickets or upgrades, I think it's reasonable to use miles for a $250/night hotel room.

The reception staff were accommodating, and the woman at the reception desk has a fantastic, dry sense of humor.

The room was small, but normal by European standards. It was definitely on the "funky" side, but the bed was comfortable, it was cool, quiet, and reasonably well-appointed.

Above all, the hotel provides free WiFi, an all-inclusive Israeli breakfast, and evening hors d'oeuvres with complimentary wine. They have a pleasant balcony, and I enjoyed (many) glasses of Merlot while people watching and schmoozing with other guests.

Above all, I loved not having to take a taxi or bus anywhere... I could walk to the Kotel, shopping areas, etc. without difficulty.

The Harmony has gained accolades on web sites and in the The New York Times, so I'm enjoying it while it lasts! I do miss the gym and the pool at the Regency, but it's definitely not worth the money.

As always in Jerusalem, I get asked for directions at every turn. People stop their cars, roll down their windows, and ask me for directions. Do I look like a tour guide? I figure that it's my small stature, eyeglasses, and red kipah... I can't look threatening no matter how hard I try. Maybe I need a facial scar.

This happened to me when I lived in New York City too. Somehow I inadvertently emit an, "ask me, I'm here to help you" vibe.

To my surprise, I'm yet to run into any friends or neighbors. Usually I run into someone I know on Ben Yehuda Street... a friend from college, a friend of my parents, etc. Then again, I haven't been here long enough. It's bound to happen sooner or later.

So far, I've only had one matchmaking proposition. "You'll like her," said a stranger, "she's a doctor." I politely declined. Besides, the bed in the Harmony is awfully small
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Old Jul 3, 2012, 9:52 am
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Glad that the AC experience did not disappoint.

I find that the wines have been hit and miss on the AC planes. Happy that it worked out for you. . .
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Old Jul 4, 2012, 6:59 pm
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Originally Posted by worldtraveller73
Glad that the AC experience did not disappoint.

I find that the wines have been hit and miss on the AC planes. Happy that it worked out for you. . .
AC is just weird about their wines. Some are good, some are mediocre, and some are just confusing given the better products available at their price points; you write them an email with some polite suggestions and you get the world's most defensive email back though...
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Old Jul 4, 2012, 7:08 pm
  #9  
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Very nice report. Thanks Mats.
AC J fares to TLV are indeed very attractive. We're going to TLV over New Years and I almost considered AC. In the end I found a great LH First fare thru Amex ICT program that brought the price down to just a little over $6K per person.
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Old Jul 5, 2012, 12:51 am
  #10  
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SFO777,
El Al also offers a $6,000-ish first class round trip fare from LAX (on the nonstop.) The down side is that El Al first is no great shakes, and I'm shackled to Star Alliance Loyalty.

Jerusalem
Jerusalem was very much alive despite the heat. In fact, I don't think I've ever seen so much activity on Ben Yehuda Street. It was an absolute delight.

Without delving into greater detail, let's just say that I "made friends" at the hotel. This was not lost on the friendly but snarky receptionist. She suggested that we need only reserve one room at the next visit. And we'll just leave it at that. I was pretty amused that the receptionist was not afraid to comment.

Sheraton Tel Aviv and Towers
I think this is my third stay at the Sheraton Tel Aviv. Of the beach hotels on Hayarkon Street, it's my favorite. Of course it's hardly a bargain, but there are decent rates available for advance purchase.

The staff are exceptionally cheerful, attentive, and accommodating. I was a bit baffled because they didn't have my correct phone number, address, etc. Somehow the Starwood Preferred Guest site reverted to old information. This did not present a problem; it was just a head scratcher.

In any case, I have a spectacular room on a club floor overlooking the beach. The lounge has an open bar (with complimentary Campari, thank you!), warm evening snacks, and an espresso/latte machine. Although breakfast is available in the lounge, the over-the-top full-force Israeli breakfast is downstairs (and well worth the trip in my opinion.)

There is a $20/day charge for WiFi, which is a bummer. But this is hardly anything unusual. Other than that, the room is huge, well-appointed, immaculately clean, and has sufficient complimentary Dead Sea cosmetics to open a shopping mall kiosk.

בית התפוצות
This was formerly known as the "Diaspora Museum," and is now "The Museum of the Jewish People." I'd been there under its prior name, and it's well worth a visit.

This time, I wanted to go to see an exhibit about the kidnapping of Adolf Eichmann. My favorite book growing up was The House on Garibaldi Street (I know, it was embellished, but it's still a good story.) I've actually been to the actual site of the house in Buenos Aires, and seen Eichmann's old house on Chacabuco Street.

This small exhibit featured all of the various espionage equipment made by the Shabak, the fake ID cards, fake El Al identity information, special telegraph encoders, and the gloves used to grab Eichmann himself.

There's a great photo of Abba Eban shaking hands with Argentine president Arturo Frondizi. Frondizi was completely unaware that Eban's flight back to Tel Aviv would have a "special guest" in first class.

The exhibit is not just about the capture, but also about its meaning in the history of Israel and about justice. The exhibit ends with videos of the opening testimonies at the trial, etc. It's only a temporary exhibit, but I'm glad I took the time to go see it.

And now, off to run some errands and head for the beach for some sun, Matkot, etc.
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Old Jul 6, 2012, 1:29 pm
  #11  
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Just as a FYI:
The yogurt mysteriously contained “probiotics.”
This is active cultures, what makes yogurt, yogurt
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Old Jul 6, 2012, 11:36 pm
  #12  
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Wow! What a fabulous TR!! Let's keep it up the good work! I'm glad you have a great flight and enjoy your stay.
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Old Jul 7, 2012, 2:01 am
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Ahh, the beach the sun, the food. I've thought of moving to Tel Aviv many times, but it's not a great choice for professional reasons (I think I'd make about 25 percent of my current income.) So I decided that I would just visit at least once year.

I made many friends on the beach and at cafés. (Not "special friends" as was the case in Jerusalem.")

The Sheraton was a flawless experience. They have such perfect, accommodating service. Nothing was too much trouble, and I was met with a smile at every turn.

Ben Gurion Airport
As usual, I decided to arrive very early... just in case I got slammed with a "6" at the security check (the system is less transparent now; just a barcode. But I clearly got the equivalent of a "1.")

I made it through three security checkpoints, check in, and immigration within TWENTY MINUTES For the first time, I had my carry-on searched and passed through a metal detector at the terminal entrance (it was an empty day, so I figured that this was for the sake of randomness. The guy also seemed really bored.)

The cute, bubbly security girl had almost no questions, and wished me a good trip. I know, this is blatant discrimination, but it does make for a very quick trip through the airport.

They did toss my checked bag through the CT scanner, which I haven't had in a long time, but this took less than five seconds.

The Air Canada check-in was swift (nobody in front of me in line), and the 20-something Israeli woman at the counter was in a "How Bubbly Can You Be?" competition with the security woman. I thought she was going to slip me her phone number.

The last security checkpoint also had nobody in line (it's Shabbat), and the staff were equally pleasant. Shoes on, no liquid rules, and WHOOOSH! I was on my way.

There was no line at immigration. Stamp. "Tisa nai'ma," and off I went.

How is it that supposedly the most secure airport int he world is such a breeze?

Since the internet in the Dan Lounge is limited to their own terminals, I'm hanging out in the rotunda for a while.

Last edited by Mats; Jul 9, 2012 at 7:38 am
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Old Jul 7, 2012, 3:22 am
  #14  
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Actually, the WiFi in the Dan Lounge now works; this is a nice change. It's nowhere near as nice as the El Al King David lounge, but I'm glad they have WiFi for real.
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Old Jul 8, 2012, 3:40 pm
  #15  
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Air Canada 85
TLV-YYZ
7 July 2012
Seat 5A

There was as 30-minute delay (no reason announced), and boarding was a free-for-all. Since Israel-to-Canada flights have no liquid rules, there was no additional bag search at the gate.

Everyone seemed to settle in quickly enough. There were a few threatening announcements about how the flight crew's duty time was about to run out, but I think the passengers were rather diligent about getting situated.

The cabin and environment were once again excellent. I found the seat to be comfortable, quiet, and private. The massive movie screen and wide selection of films made time fly between naps.

The crew, particularly Trevor and Meredith, were chatty, warm, and quite witty. Unlike the outbound flight, there were two "speakers" on board, but they worked in the back.

The menu introduction was the same, so I won't repeat that.

FIRST MEAL SERVICE
Appetizer
Bresaola with grilled Polenta, Mushrooms, Red Onion Salad, and marinated Fig

Salad
Mixed Greens with Grape Tomatoes and Yellow Peppers served with Balsamic vinaigrette

Main Courses
Each meal is served with a selection of fresh Breads with Butter

Grilled Lamb Cutlets
complimented by Lamb Jus, Potatoes au Gratin, Asparagus, Zucchini, and Red Pepper

Roast Breast of Goose
Served with Balsamic Cherry Sauce, Vegetable Couscous, sautéed Carrots and snow peas

Grilles Salmon
With White Wine Sauce accompanied by Wild Rice, Asparagus, and Zucchini

Eggplant Ravioli
Offered with creamy Red Pepper Sauce, Zucchini Bâtons and Cherry Tomato

Selection of Cheese
Marselane, Gorgonozola, and Saint-Maure served with Crackers

Choice of Desserts
Vanilla, Chocolate, and Cookies and Cream Ice Cream with Chocolate Garnish

Sliced seasonal Fruit

AT YOUR LEISURE
Choose one or more of the following light snack options. Simply ask your flight attendant between meal services.

Feta with Black Olive Tapénade and sun-dreid Tomato Sandwich
and smoked Salmon, Cream Cheese and Chives sandwich

Goat Cheese and roasted Red Pepper Tart, Turkish Cheese Burek
and Spinach and Eggplant Phyllo Roll

Selection of Packaged Snacks and Fresh Fruit
(always available at the front of the cabin)

PRE-ARRIVAL LIGHT MEAL

Appetizer
Assorted Vegetable Salad served with Balsamic Vinaigrette

Main Courses
Each meal is served with a selection of fresh Breads with Butter

Oven-Roasted Breast of Chicken
presented with Chicken Jus with Green Peppercorns, Sweet Potato Purée and Vegetable Fettuccine

Roasted Veal
finished with Porcini Mushroom Sauce, Barley and Red Lentil Risotto and Green Beans

Dessert
Tiramisu

About the food...
  • Again, the salad was especially good: remarkably fresh with a delicious basil vinaigrette from France
  • The bread included an herb foccacia, which I especially liked
  • The ravioli was pretty awful; I can't quite figure out why. Usually pasta flies well, but this was relatively disgusting. The focaccia helped.
  • The ice cream was fantastic It had a gelato consistency, and I thought it was impressive.
  • Although described as "at your leisure" the crew actually made a mid-flight service. The Burek was amazing: warm and filling.
  • The pre-arrival meal was not so great. It was like a really good economy class meal on a really good day. The salad was acidic and the chicken was fatty. The sweet potato purée and tiramisu were saving graces. The chicken was not a good choice. On the other hand, I was impressed that they serve an actual full dinner.
  • I once again enjoyed (too much) of the Matchbox Syrah. Mmmm.

The flight passed by quickly, and we were ready for landing in no time at all.

Toronto Pearson Airport Arrival
I was prepared for the worst. I'd heard about two-hour delays for luggage, painfully long lines at customs, and other hazards. I'd also heard that NEXUS machines were hard to find.

In fact, it was the opposite. The NEXUS machine was right in front of me, and bags started coming off the belt within five minutes.

The time from seat 5A to my room at the Sheraton Gateway was 35 minutes. So much for YYZ horror stories.

Sheraton Gateway Hotel, Toronto
"Welcome back!" said the gentleman at check-in. I've never been to the Sheraton Gateway before, but I didn't correct him.

The Gateway is a little sad. It's not terrible, but it's sort of dark. It just looks and feels like an airport hotel. Fair enough. Also, would other hotel guests kindly close their window shades? I do not need to see you half-naked reading the newspaper.

I enjoyed a few good appetizers in the Club Lounge, took a swim in the 24-hour pool, and went to bed reasonably early.

Breakfast in the Club Lounge was modest but sufficient. The Polish attendant was especially warm and accommodating.

The only real problem was that the hallways were a mess! Maybe it's just a pet peeve, but there were dirty dishes everywhere. I arrived at 7:00-ish at night, and left 12 hours later. The dirty dishes remained untouched. I really think this is a sign of poor housekeeping, and it makes the hotel look bad. Sometimes it's inevitable, but I wondered if the housekeeping staff were on vacation.

I actually sent an email to a generic Sheraton "contact us" address, and received an email back from the manager within hours. His personalized response was thoughtful, understanding, and he said that he would address this with housekeeping. Good job! I addressed the situation kindly, stating that sometimes managers are unaware when a particular floor is in disarray, and I really just wanted him to know. He understood, and responded promptly and warmly.

Toronto Pearson Airport Departure

Again, I was not looking forward to this. Even the Air Canada web site has apologetic warnings about wait times for transborder flights. I hadn't been to YYZ since the late 90s, so I had no idea what to expect.

The hardest part was lack of signage. I had hoped for a first class/Star Gold bag drop, since I used a kiosk to check in. No dice. So I was directed to the regular bag drop, where I was told that the line could take an hour! I asked again, and another agent said, "Why don't you use our Executive Class line around the corner?" (That's where I started.) At least there was only a two or three minute wait.

A harsh, incomprehensible woman tagged my bag with all kinds of instructions about the bag tags. I have no idea what she was saying. She was definitely exuding an "I hate life" attitude. In fact, this gave me a flashback to my last Air Canada flight to the US decades ago. I remembered some nasty woman making weird comments.

The queue for US Pre-Clearance was so terrifying that it could induce social anxiety disorder. Just as I started to panic, I noticed the NEXUS line right in front of me. Although I still had to dodge angry mobs of stressed-out passengers to drop off my bag, and get a glare from a passive-aggressive CBP agent I made it through Pre-Clearance and security within 20 minutes. Thank you, NEXUS!

As expected, security was much less painful than in the US. The CATSA staff were silent, and it moved quite quickly. It seemed like almost nobody was subjected to frisking. There was a millimiter wave machine off in the distance, but it did not appear to be in use. I guess the Canadians are a tad more sensible.

I headed upstairs to the Transborder Maple Leaf Lounge, which isn't nice at all. The coffee machines were broken, and the food choices were even sadder than a United Club. It's really not worth wasting one's time. This is in sharp contrast to the International Maple Leaf Lounge, which was great.

Air Canada 543
YYZ-SEA
8 July 2012
Seat 1A

There was a brief delay due to late arrival of the inbound aircraft, but the little Embraer 190s deplane and board quickly, so it wasn't a huge problem. The gate agent was actually polite.

Once on board, the service was polite, swift, and relaxed. Robert, the purser, remained cheerful and attentive.

The menu was actually identical to the outbound, so I won't repeat it. I went for the pancakes this time, and I was kind of thrilled. I'm not usually a big pancake eater, but these might make me a convert: cranberry compote and maple butter? Yes please! The fruit plate was especially good this morning: it was a huge platter of pineapple, strawberries, and blueberries.

Once again, we were treated to warm cookies and ice cream prior to arrival.

I'm still amazed. This was a 4.5-hour flight, and I had a seat by myself, a printed menu, gate-to-gate on-demand video, in-seat power, a massive fruit plate, and warm cookies and ice cream prior to arrival. Also, the bathrooms have really nice "Fruit and Passions" soap and hand lotion (on a transborder flight aboard an Embraer.) No US carrier even comes close to this level of service.

As before, Air Canada has fewer rules. A slight chop is not cause for the seatbelt sign, the captains can come use the bathroom without elaborate cart maneuvers, and there are no rules about "congregating" in aisles. It's refreshing.

Conclusions
It's really painful to be back. Every trip to Israel warms my heart, and it reminds me how much I wish I could have stayed longer. On a happier note, I'm tanned, relaxed, and grateful for the experience.

Air Canada
I'm very happy I chose to fly with Air Canada. They're a bit more standoffish, they don't have the silver trays, warm nuts, or sundaes, but the seats are great, some of the food was particularly good, and much of the trip was hassle-free.

Toronto is a bit of a pain, but it's the only choice for Tel Aviv flights. I usually go to Paris once a year and Geneva once a year, so I might see if I want to double connect and go via Montréal.

The Harmony Hotel
This was an odd hotel, but it wins in terms of location and staff. In fact, I ran into a family on my flight back to Toronto, and they had been staying there at the same time. They had the same thoughts. They had also stayed at the sister hotel, the Melody, in Tel Aviv. They said it was nice, but that the Harmony had far better service.

Above all, I liked being able to use MileagePlus miles for my stay; that always sweetens the deal.

The--umm--"other events" at the Harmony Hotel involving another guest certainly made it unforgettable. We have no further comment at this time.

The Sheraton Tel Aviv and Towers
Fantastic as always. Can I just live in the Sheraton Tel Aviv? They have phenomenal staff, well-appointed rooms, and a perfect location. It worth every dime. I'll be back.

The Sheraton Gateway Toronto
Bearable. The Gateway redeemed itself by handling my minor concern with grace and speed. I would certainly stay there again for the sake of convenience, but there are nicer Sheraton properties.

NEXUS
It's a travel necessity if you ever travel by air between the US and Toronto. I knew it would help, but I had no idea how much it would help. Although Pearson airport Terminal 1 will never been a garden spot, NEXUS is the best way to alleviate the pressure.

And now... back to work and reality.

Last edited by Mats; Jul 9, 2012 at 7:39 am
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