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A quick trip to Kyoto using a UA buddy pass (lots of pics)

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A quick trip to Kyoto using a UA buddy pass (lots of pics)

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Old Jul 23, 2011, 1:27 pm
  #1  
aw
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A quick trip to Kyoto using a UA buddy pass (lots of pics)

I need to travel abroad and get an "intl fix". The thought has been in my mind for some time since my unemployment in June. However, I couldn't commit to buying a ticket in advance because there were too many unknowns at the time, so I patiently waited and hoped for the best. During the course of that month I was called for several interviews and was finally made an offer. Then there was the medical clearance that needed to be taken care of and complicated by a "false positive" result so by the time I finished with all the paperwork I only had about a week off before the start date at my new job.

Originally I wanted to revisit Paris but the fares were prohibitively expensive. What isn't during the middle of summer? so I almost resigned myself to sitting around and be content with the idea of exploring some ethnic restaurants in the hopes of transporting myself to faraway places for at least a second while savoring my exotic culinary creations. Then a light bulb went off. One of my best friends works for UA and I can always ask him for some buddy passes. Being myself a former airline employee, I am no stranger to the ins and outs of traveling non-rev, but do I want to subject myself to the anxiety and torture of the unknown? What if a flight suddenly gets overbooked or worse, canceled at the last minute leaving stranded? Do I have enough back up plans to rely on to get me out? In the end, I diligently checked the loads of all intl. flights out of SFO and Osaka was the most promising with plenty of availability for the dates that I wanted to fly. I've never been to Japan (connected in NRT and KIX but that doesn't count) so that was a tempting proposition. Considering that last minute fares from SFO to KIX were hovering at around $2,000 more or less, and that a buddy ticket came to less than 1/4 of that amount incl. taxes, the decision was made.


UA 885 SFO-KIX
EQP 777 Seat 23D
Dept. 11:48A - Arriv. 3:15P next day Y/C


I arrived at the airport by 9:45A and was directed to the regular economy line. As a CO Platinum and UA 1P, it was hard passing by the empty elite line and not being able to check in there. I went from "somebody" to "nobody", the bottom of the food chain, even below regular employees (a small price to pay given the cost of the ticket.) Once I got to the front of the line I was directed to the kiosk for check-in. I noticed that this applied to all passengers there, not just non-revs. Why then couldn't UA install more kiosks instead in order to expedite the process?

I received my boarding pass in less than a minute and proceeded to the gate. There was already a conga line by the time I arrived and with more than an hour to spare I waited patiently. Going through security seemed painfully slow and by the time I was inside the gate I heard my name being called. The flight was not overbooked and I thought that I had a fighting chance to get J with still 8 open seats and 2 people listed for that cabin as of two days before my flight. Then the night before an equipment change happened and the seat inventory in J went from 49 to 40 severing my chances to sit up front. Oh well, c'est la vie. The agent was actually pretty nice and since she called me so early I knew that I was assigned a Y seat. She gave me the boarding card apologizing that no J seats were available but she put me in an aisle E+. I had 23D which is in the middle row. I couldn't really complain, especially when later on the seat next to me remained vacant. Truth be told during all my years working for UA I have never flown in Y on an international flight. I guess I was either extremely lucky or planned my flights very well. There is a first for everything so this was a great opportunity to try E+. At the same time, flying in Y keeps my perspective in check and make me appreciate F or J even more.

The seat was comfortable and the legroom decent, but I did not think that it was so vast a difference as advertised. Still, relatively better than regular Y. FA's were robotic except for one Japanese speaker who was the epitome of professionalism throughout the flight. The rest did not smile and just went through the motions mechanically. I was glad to see that UA provides on demand TV and decent earphones in the seats. About 45 min. into the flight the serviced commenced with the drink cart followed by lunch. Today's choices were beef OR vegetable sukiyaki. In the spirit of my destination, I opted for the latter and it was nearly inedible and tasteless. UA used to have decent meals in Y but to my disappointment there were no appetizers, cheese/crackers or real dessert. The tray had a salad, roll, entree and packaged brownie. Cost cutting at its best. I went to the back galley and found a container of pretzel sticks and water cups. Eventually we were midflight and the snack service started with the rolling of carts and each passenger receiving a bag of chips, kit kat, lemon cookie and pretzel stick. Later on the leftovers were placed in the galley for passengers to help themselves. Before arriving into KIX, the second meal started with a choice between hot turkey sandwich or Asian noodles. I had the noodles and the guy at the other end of my row was slurping them with gusto. Sadly I couldn't partake in his enthusiasm for this meal. The tray set up included a bag of chips and a package of Knott's shortbread cookies. Do chips go well with noodles?


UA 885 with new livery (I prefer the old tulip. This is just too plain)






Vegetable sukiyaki






Salad looked decent




Green tea after meal service is a nice touch




Midflight snacks




Second meal before arrival (Asian noodles)






Arrival into KIX was on time and immigration was a bit involved since every foreigner had to be fingerprinted and photographed. I reserved a room at the Toyoko-Inn hotel around Umeda for 6,480 Yen total which I think was a fair price given the location.


Osaka

I came armed with two cameras and a tripod to take night pictures but due to exhaustion and weather I was unable to do any of that. In fact rain was a constant nuisance throughout my 3 days in Kyoto because it appeared that the region got the tail end of a typhoon.

Getting to town from KIX is easy with many options available. Now, purchasing a ticket from the machines can be a bit daunting for the first timer and looking at the subway map can be intimidating. Thankfully there are English translations and you just have to keep in mind that when you use the kiosk, you select the fare and not the destination. You establish how much you pay by looking at the map above first.

The closest station to my hotel was Nakatsu so I took the train to Namba and changed there. Namba station is huge and seems somewhat convoluted but good thing that there was a visitor's office on the premise that helped point me to the connecting line.


Namba station






A few meters from Nakatsu I found the hotel. There was no Western signs which I found odd so I matched the Japanese characters of the name with the sign in the distance. Service was efficient and polite and soon I was in my room which felt like a sauna. Summer in Japan can be very uncomfortable with temp. in the 90's and high humidity. I had to insert the stick of my key into the hole by the door to activate the electricity and turned on the AC right away. The room was compact with TV, small refrigerator, and tiny closet. The bathroom floor was raised and an electronic bidet was standard in the toilet. There were dispensers of soap, shampoo and rinse in the bathroom. I appreciated the "hanger rope" to dry clothes. One small complain I have about this property is that even though a small Japanese breakfast is offered, it was hard to partake in it due to the limited seating in the lobby. I came down twice and eventually gave up. On a more positive note, the hotel has two free internet computers and a printer available for guests.


Toyoko-Inn hotel

Small lobby







Room











Clothes hanger




to be continued with walk around Osaka

Last edited by aw; Jul 24, 2011 at 10:23 am
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Old Jul 23, 2011, 8:22 pm
  #2  
aw
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I spent my evening in good company with an expat friend who lives in Osaka and after some beer, wine and a great dinner that he prepared, I was ready to crash at the hotel. Jack is a talented and creative photographer who specializes in street shots. His perspective is uniquely whimsical and at times I derive inspiration from his work.

I woke up at around 5:00A and decided to explore my surroundings before taking the train to Kyoto. My check out was not until 10:00A so I had time to spare. The hotel was within walking distance from Osaka station (less than 10 min.) and I took the opportunity to take some shots of the neighborhood. The ominous dark clouds and drizzle were indicative of the rainy day ahead and with an air of resignation I ventured out with my faithful umbrella.


Glimpses of Osaka














After walking around I wish I had devoted more time to Osaka. The city had an industrial feel yet it was not gloomy or dreary. On the contrary, it had a sense of order combined with lively and colorful corners. I can not begin to imagine the wonderful sights awaiting to be discovered in neighborhoods like Minami and Kita. The train ride from Osaka to Kyoto station took about 35 min. and it was around 590 yen. It makes several stops along the way passing through the green countryside. Arriving into Kyoto station was a stark contrast from the relaxing ride and immediately you feel that you are deposited into a crowded and chaotic destination. One wonders if the peaceful and beautiful essence of everything Japanese actually exists beyond this structure. The station is huge with a futuristic decor that at times feels imposing and encroaching.

Finding the Hokke Club hotel was easy because it was located across from the main entrance of the station on the other side of the street. I selected this property for its convenient location and I booked it for $144 for 2 nights including taxes at Expedia. On top of that, I booked this through a facebook link and qualified for a $50 pre-paid credit card that will be sent to me. It gets better. On my day of dept. I noticed that the rate went down and I called Expedia for an adjustment. So in the end I ended up paying about $123 total and got an additional $50 credit to be used for any future reservations. Sweet!!! The front desk of the hotel is located on the second floor and you can access it through the escalator or elevator from the street level. At certain times, the escalator was not operating so I had to use the elevator. The staff was polite and professional, bowing to you when you approach the desk. I was sweating profusely from the humidity and the clerk provided me with a towel right away without asking. A very nice touch. The check in time is 4:00P which I think is a bit draconian but when in Rome do as the Romans. The hotel offered to hold my luggage until check-in time and in the meantime I explored the adjacent shopping mall.


Kyoto station




Hokke Club
















Once I settled into my room, I began to explore around the city during the rest of my stay. Kyoto is a fascinating place full of contrasts where the old meets the new and the modern with the traditional. As a former imperial capital it retains a regal air that makes it so different from other modern cities.

to be continued with images from Kyoto.

Last edited by aw; Jul 24, 2011 at 10:25 am
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Old Jul 23, 2011, 8:38 pm
  #3  
aw
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Kyoto - a city of contrasts.




























Isetan Department Store by Kyoto station











to be continued with more of Kyoto.

Last edited by aw; Jul 24, 2011 at 10:20 am
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Old Jul 23, 2011, 10:28 pm
  #4  
 
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Great so far!
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Old Jul 24, 2011, 10:06 am
  #5  
aw
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I have always admired the Japanese innate sense of beauty evident in their daily lives - the presentation of food, flowers, interiors, etc. The clean and simple style verge on minimalism, yet some of us equate this with elegance. Kyoto was the right place to find these manifestations and as a photographer I welcomed the surprises that I encountered around every corner.

I am passionate about food and while in Kyoto I looked forward to visiting the Nishiki market (known as Kyoto's kitchen) where anything edible is found here and many restaurant owners get their food supplies early in the morning. The market is a covered arcade that is about 6 blocks long, making it an ideal destination for a rainy day (which was the case during my entire stay here). It runs east-west from Teramachi to Takakura street and one block north of Shijo street. Pickled vegetables are big in Japan and there is no shortage of stores selling these in the market. Stores range from chic and stylish produce boutiques to mom and pop tiny stalls, but all of them are quite engaging and fun to discover.



Produce store




Wagashi (sweets) store





Tsukemono (pickle) stores






Seafood store




Being in Kyoto, I also wanted to experience a kaiseki meal, even a condensed version if you will. Underneath the Kyoto station one can find Porta, the largest underground shopping mall in the city. The mega complex holds more than 200 stores, boutiques and restaurants. Because of its convenient location, I spent some time here and frequented a couple of good Japanese restaurants. A few establishments are quite popular with the locals and you can find a line out of the door during lunch time. Most of the cuisine is predominantly Japanese ranging from okonomiyaki (pancakes with a variety of toppings) to kaiseki style meals, although I also saw a Chinese and Italian place.

In addition, there is the Isetan department store food basement where one can find an astonishing array of pastries and food stuff. If you crave for bread Andersen bakery with its self service approach provides a good fix. Just pick up a tray and thong, select what you want and pay at the cashier. The Cube is a group of stores selling typical Japanese crafts and food. There is a location down here as well as on the first floor by the main entrance of the station. Inside Isetan there is a group of restaurants located on the 11th floor with another food hall below. During my short visit I saw blocks of fish roe, seafood and deli items sold.

Kaiseki meals are considered the height of Japanese cuisine composed of a variety of small dishes showcasing different cooking techniques. Food is carefully arranged in order to maximize the visual aesthetics and the meal should be as pleasing to the eyes as it is to the mouth. Fresh and local ingredients are used and the result should be a balance of taste, texture and appearance. It might include soup, sashimi, a simmered, grilled, steamed or fried course, a vinegar dish to cleanse the palate or pickles, in addition to other dishes that are up to the chef's discretion.


Kaiseki meal set 1

















Lunch set 2








Isetan food hall












to be continued with walks in the neighborhoods.
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Old Jul 25, 2011, 5:45 am
  #6  
 
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Thanks for the report...brought back great memories of my trip in 2005. Been trying to get back since!
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Old Jul 26, 2011, 9:25 am
  #7  
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Great report, thanks! We spent 5.5 weeks from end of May to early July in Japan (Tokyo, Sapporo, Kyoto, Nagano, Yokohama, Okinawa), it really was a trip to remember.
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Old Jul 26, 2011, 1:43 pm
  #8  
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My has Kyoto-eki (station) ever changed!!! Kyoto is my favourite city in Japan along with Tokyo (all my friends live in and around Tokyo).

Beautiful pictures -- I look forward to reading the rest
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Old Jul 26, 2011, 9:02 pm
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Looking forward to more... I love Kyoto. Went there just on a daytrip from Osaka in 2003, and have been gagging to go back ever since, which happily I will be doing just that in March next year (after a flight on NH in F, which I'm also excited about). Your trip report is fueling my happy anticipation
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Old Jul 26, 2011, 10:29 pm
  #10  
aw
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The rain finally subsided on my last day and I woke up early with enough time to indulge in some last minute sightseeing before my 10:00A check out. I headed north towards Higashi Hongan-Ji temple since it was relatively close to the hotel. Once inside a sense of peace permeated through the surroundings and its enourmous Goei-do main hall is one of the world's largest wooden structures. Afterwards I walked by the residential area and within a couple of steps one could appreciate the stark contrast between the traditional and modern in this city.


Highashi Hongan-Ji temple















Modern and traditional Kyoto
















UA 886 KIX-SFO
EQP 777 Seat 13A
Dept. 1710P - Arriv. 1107A J/C



After one more trip to the Isetan's food hall followed by a satisfying meal at an underground restaurant, I took the train directly to Kansai airport to catch my flight back to San Francisco. Today's flight was slightly overbooked by about 18 people but there was some decent availability in J. I did not foresee any problem getting onboard. I checked at the kiosk and went through security quickly. Once at the gate I used the free computer provided to check some email. Soon more people arrived at the gate and at 1 hr. before departure a couple of names were called. It was now 15 min. before departure and I was not called yet. At this time I saw a couple of people milling around and a quick glimpse at their boarding management cards revealed that they were non-revenues too. The nail biting continued and finally people approached the gate agent for information. The agent had a fistful of boarding cards in her hands and started asking for names. When I gave her mine I was presented with a boarding pass for seat 11E in J. I was thankful and proceeded to board the plane. Once I settled in my middle seat I saw a couple over at 13AB get up and move to the front. The door closed and those seats remained empty. I asked a flight attendant if i could occupy those seats and she asked me to wait. About 30 seconds later she came back and gave me the ok. She told me to take the window seat because 13B had to remain vacant for the child seating directly behind it. By now I felt pretty lucky because I went from a middle seat to a window with an empty seat next to me in business. As a matter of fact I was the only person in the cabin in a 2 seat row with an unoccupied seat on the side. Who said 13 is an unlucky number?

FA's handed out menus and pre-dept. drinks before take off and once we reached cruising altitude service began with hot towels followed by drinks with warm nuts. The purser came to my seat and asked for my 1st and 2nd meal choices. I asked her to surprised me and she liked the answer. As a non-rev I was happy to be given anything and I am not a particularly picky eater, which is a blessing.



Here's the sample menu:

beginnings

SUSHI SAMPLER

A selection of vegetarian and seafood sushi rolls with pickled ginger, edamame and fresh salad greens, served with shiso vinaigrette

If you have chosen the Washoku Zen meal, the appetizer selection is served as the starter.


main course

PAN-SEARED FILET MIGNON WITH BALSAMIC ONION DEMI-GLACE
Baked stuffed potato with chives and asparagus

COUNTRY-STYLE CHICKEN WITH CHICKEN JUS LIE
Penne pasta with three cheese sauce and spring peas

WASHOKU ZEN SELECTION
Appetizers of snapper sushi, simmered shrimp, lightly salted flounder wrapped in seaweed, chicken in cod egg roll, baby bamboo with dried fish flakes, beef sirloin with Japanese dressing, maitake mushroom and cha soba noodles topped with tenkasu

A main course of sea bass wakasa yaki with gin-an, simmered enoki mushroom and mizuna and baby asparagus served with steamed rice and Japanese pickled vegetables
Served with green tea
Items in this meal may contain MSG.

to finish
ARTISAN CHEESE SELECTION
Served with red grapes and crackers

SPECIALTY DESSERT


prior to arrival
FRESH SEASONAL FRUIT PLATE
With creamy yogurt

For the heartier appetite, you may select the following entree:
VEGETABLE FRITTATA WITH OVEN-ROASTED TOMATO SAUCE
Pork link sausages

Today's menu features beef from Australia.




WINES

champagne
NICOLAS FEUILLATTE BRUT RESERVE PARTICULIERE NV, CHAMPAGNE

white wine
PAZO SAN MAURO ALBARINO 2007, RIAS BAIXAS, SPAIN

PELLEGRINI OLIVET LANE CHARDONNAY 2008, RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY, CALIFORNIA

or

GEYSER PEAK CHARDONNAY 2009, ALEXANDER VALLEY


red wine
EVODIA GARNACHA 2009, CALATAYUD, SPAIN

or

CHATEAU PESQUIE LES TERRASSES (GRENACHE BLEND) 2009, COTES DU VENTOUX

CHATEAU SIGOGNAC MEDOC CRU BOURGEOIS 2008


sake
GEKKEIKAN JUNMAI-SHU IS AVAILABLE ON FLIGHTS TO AND FROM JAPAN

Fonseca Guimaraens LBV Port will be offered during the main meal's dessert.


The appetizer with the combined salad seemed lacking. I am not in favor of lumping appetizers and salad together and to me this is a cost saving move.
My surprise main meal turned out to be the chicken. Although it tasted fine, the presentation and quality was more "comfort" than gourmet befitting a front cabin. The passenger behind me asked to be served later but the flight attendant advised him that all meals were already placed in the oven and his request could not be honored. For dessert, a selection of two cheeses with grapes was plated from the cart and this was a more proper way to deliver it as opposed to being pre-plated. I opted for the ice cream and asked for a bottle of Kahlua to pour on top. I had to remind the flight attendant to give me the wafer.

The whole dinner service was quick and at times seemed rushed. There was some turbulence during the first hour of the flight so that might have accounted for the speedy delivery. Afterwards water runs were made frequently but no snacks were available in the galley. I was hoping for some leftover cheese and grapes but there was none. About 1.5 hrs before arrival the second service started and the flight attendants offered orange, apple, tomato or cranberry juice from a tray. The cart was rolled and I was given the frittata along with a warm croissant. Landing was smooth and we were treated to some beautiful views of downtown San Francisco.


Bye Osaka




Meal service












Arriving in SFO






Kyoto and Osaka proved to be fascinating destinations and a bit of a stretch to try to cover it in such a short amount of time. My only regret is that I did not stay long enough to discover all of its charms and the weather hampered my efforts to enjoy these cities to the fullest. I will make it a point to return in the future.

As always thank you for your time and comments.

Last edited by aw; Jul 27, 2011 at 1:44 pm
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Old Jul 27, 2011, 11:26 pm
  #11  
 
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Curious why they had to keep the seat next to you free because of a child behind you??
I asked a flight attendant if i could occupy those seats and she asked me to wait. About 30 seconds later she came back and gave me the ok. She told me to take the window seat because 13B had to remain vacant for the child seating directly behind it.
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Old Jul 28, 2011, 3:03 pm
  #12  
aw
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That sounded strange to me too. Maybe they wanted to make it easier for the adult sitting by the window behind me to exit in case he needed to. If I took the aisle and reclined all the way (these were the old style J seats) then it might have been a bit challenging for him to get out.
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Old Jul 28, 2011, 10:33 pm
  #13  
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This was very well written. I enjoyed the report. Thanks for taking the effort.
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Old Jul 29, 2011, 11:15 pm
  #14  
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Wow!!! Another brilliant TR!!! I'm glad you have a great trip. Hope you can go back to Japan again in a distant the future.
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 10:51 am
  #15  
 
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Great report - I'm flying to Japan on Wednesday, will be in Kyoto about a week later and you've given me some ideas - thanks
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