essxjay

The time had come to take my muchly anticipated trek to MUC the weekend before Xmas, where I was finally getting to meet Counsellor and stay over the holiday with Daydream and her family. So, without further ado ...

LH 469, A340 Seat 2A
PDX-FRA

My motivation for choosing LH over United was because of the much ballyhooed service in F on LH. And it did live up to my expectations in every way.

I got a little static from the check-in agent about the weight of my rollaboard. No freaking way was I checking it as I'm highly allergic to the TSA.

As I strolled to the gate I stopped by the Made in Oregon shop and snagged some smoked salmon and Marionberry jam for Counsellor, and some other jams and Marionberry vinegar for Daydream as little Christmas gifts.

Boarding was mostly smooth, but the usually orderly process I'm used to with UA was a free-for-all with LH. H has kind of a crummy gate area on the D concourse, unlike the lovely, airy E concourse occupied by United. I guess that when DL pulled out of PDX in 2000 the Port of Portland kind of ignored gate D14, as it's the only one that can handle wide bodies.

Anyway, there was an excellent selection of newspapers and magazines in German and English available for Y as well as C and F pax on the jetway. I helped myself to an ample supply of reading material. <g>

The FA came over right away and helped stow my bags (such small bins for such a big bus!) and offered a beverage. So I ordered a Coke and settled in, fiddling with all the bells and whistles of my almost flat-bed seat. She looked at me pointedly when I made a cell phone call. She politely explained that it was LH's policy to prohibit cell phone usage at any time while on board. Oh well, when in Rome...

Before take off the FA's came around with water bottles and amenity kits (which were quite nice!) and real slippers.

Take off was right on time and I switched on the air show.

Not even an hour into the flight the appetizer service began. Hot diggity! I was really looking forward this as caviar with all the trimmings was one of the options. And I soooooo love caviar. The other three offerings looked just as good and the FAs weren't at all stingy; you could have just one option or all three. Right on LH.

The FAs also passed out roses for our in-seat flower holders. Nice touch!

A second helping of caviar and a glass of a very decent Saint-Emilion and the IFE began.

I kinda wanted to watch Infinity starring the fetching John Cusack, but I couldn't find it on the IFE. I later discovered you had to ask for the tape. Oh well. I figured I'd just pick it up on the flipside and contented myself with something from the regular screen. Seabiscuit, I think.

The complete menu ...
Wines
Featured selection: 2000 Salice Salentino Reserva from Italy
Also: 1997 Louise Pommery Champange from France
1999 Chateau Yon-Figeac, Saint-Emilion, Grand Cru Classe from France
1999 Pommard, Bouchard Pete et Fils from Burgundy
2001 Cab Sauv Reserve Prestige from Chile
1999 Christine Buitenverwachting, South Africa


Hors d'oeuvre
Caviar with traditional garnishes

Sea Trout Confit with sushi rice and wasabi

Papaya salad with roasted Cashew Nuts and Curry Dressing

Smoked ostrich ham and pureed figs


Salad
Frisee, Radicchio, Lollo Rosso and Lambs Lettuce with cherry tomatoe and Crouton dressed with grapeseed Hazelnut Vinagrette or Meaux Mustard Dressing

Entrees
Tenderloin of Springbok in Morello Cherry
Crust accented by Pinotage Jus Polenta

Fillet of halibut with parsley glaze complemented by lemon butter and tagliatelle

Eggplant Ravioli enhanced by Rosemary Sauce and grilled vegetables

Roasted Goose, Red Cabbage with Apples and Potato Dumplings and Herb Butter


Cheese and dessert
International Cheese plate

Baumkuchen garnnished with Strawberry Coulis

Brioche Pudding with Apple Pudding accompanied by Cinnamon Creme

German Specialty Dessert Wines


The Springbok was excellent and as I was stuffed I just had a few grapes and some port for dessert. The FA seemed a little disappointed by this. :::shrug:::

The FA's soon came through the cabin to pull out the blankets and Bongor shirts (the shirts really are very nice -- be sure to ask for one if it's not offered straightaway), and left us to sleep or not.

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to, which is unusual for me. The seat has a slight bump right where the small of my back is so I tossed and turned for a few hours and then got up to read. Don't take that as a criticism of the seat! I've had back surgery, so my comfort quotient is a bit more demanding than for most others. All in all, it was a very comfortable seat in any position.

About an hour and half into the flight -- about 10 a.m. local time -- the FA tried to get me to close my window shade as everyone else around me was sacked out. But they were all wearing eyeshades ferchrissakes! And besides I'm horribly claustrophobic. Then the purser came by and gave me a gentle upbraiding for refusing to close my shade, saying that everybody else had paid for their seats too and he shouldn't please just one individual.

Only about an hour out, breakfast service began. Choices were a very large fruit plate or eggs cooked to order with bacon and sausage, and then of course the usual warm bread basket, juices, kaffee, tee, etc. And a warm towel. <g>

We arrived about 15 minutes early and taxied for well on nigh to forever. Oh crap! We ended up parking at a spot on the tarmac instead of at a gate. I really hate that and found it mildly irritating as I had my rollaboard and big shopping bag with (fragile) Christmas presents.

Other than that, I find FRA very easy to navigate if a bit sterile. NB: this wass my second time through FA in a little more than a year, and neither time was my passport stamped when transiting to the B concourse. Hmmm ...

I spent about 20 minutes in the Senator lounge, which was very crowded, grabbed a coke and some snacks (nothing too terribly thrilling, but better than the kick in the ... you get at most RCCs in the U.S.)

LH 972 FRA-MUC A321 6A
As many of you probably know, there's no diffence in seat pitch between Y and C intraEurope. I think the only diffence is they wave a rubber chicken over your head in C for your airline dollar/Euro. :::shrugg:::

What's amazing is they manage to do a beverage service, hand out hot towels and little sandwiches and pass around a chocolate basket for something like a 45 minute flight. U.S. in-flight service is a travesty by comparison.

I love MUC airport. It's spacious and easy to navigate IMO, esp. now that the new terminal is open. I quickly made my way to the Lufthansa shuttle, which stops in Schwabing, about a block from where I was staying at the Renaissance Marriott. IMO this is the only way to go. I hate the S-bahn when I have a fair amont of luggage, and cabs are pretty spendy. It also stops at the Hauptbahnhof.

Checking into the Renaissance was a breeze, and Counsellor got me upgraded to a nice suite. Thanks buddy.

Snacks and a split of wine were waiting for me when I got back in the evening. The unbelievable rate of 53,50 Euros included a daylong MVV pass and full buffet breakfast (which was most excellent) for each night of my stay. Sweet deal! Thanks for the promo code, Patron.

The week went by so fast. Counsellor and I spent a lot of time in the Augustiner indulging in their excellent mushroom soup and beers, hunting for zimtsterne (cinnamon stars, which are delicious) at the Kristkindlmarkt and strolling Marienplatz while sipping gluwhine. Daydream and her good friend joined up with us Sunday evening for dinner and more brews.

Counsellor and I had our last breakfast together Monday morning and Daydream and I dropped him off at the Hauptbahnhof. Then we were off to her mom's house.

More Weißwurst, and I fixed a Thai curry for her family. I think they liked it. On Christmas Eve, we unwrapped gifts; Steffi's Mom had bought me some zimtsterne, a can of Weißwurst (which was later confiscated by U.S. customs ) and some spices from South Africa. That was a lovely gesture.

Then it was time to head home.

More to come.


[This message has been edited by essxjay (edited Jan 25, 2004).]

pallensf

C'est fantastique...

------------------
Patrick A. Inouye, LMT
volunteer trip reports moderator

Uli

thank you for the report!
i hate it too when somebody wants to force me to close the shade ... you are not alone ...

flamboyant 1

Good report, thank you. Nice that they offer South African Springbok Fillet!

chuck1

I think whoever sits by the window has the right to have it opened or closed.

Whether they are using daylight to counter jetlag or just plain enjoying the view, it should be their choice.

If the airline provides the shades, what does it matter?

Why should the people who want the shade closed have more to say about it than those who want it opened?

bergamini

I think that it's common courtesy on an "overnight" flight to close the shades even if it's light out at the moment. Especially if the majority want it that way. Eye shades can only do so much. I've been on flights where they really didn't give you a choice, they just shut the shades.

bergamini

I forgot to add, nice report. Did you try the Pommery?

cathaana

Nice report.
Sounds like you had the same menu as I did on my FRA-IAH flight.
I couldn't resist and had all of the Hors d'oeuvre. The smoked ostrich ham was especially delicious.
I also thought that the springbok was excellent. And what a change from the usual airline fare. As dessert I had the Baumkuchen even though I was already bursting. But it just liked so good (and tasted even better).
LH food ex FRA is definitely the best airline food I have ever had.

eMailman

I am happy to finally see some real champagne in F on LH.

Everyone else that still has a real F, can do it.

Nice report - I also hate the forcing of the shade open or closed - who is the customer anyway?

essxjay

It was 10 a.m. local time when the purser paid me his visit. And we landed 1.5 hours later. It was a ridiculous convo given the circumstances since, as I testified, everyone was absolutely sacked out. <geez>

No, I didn't try the Pommery. Still kicking myself ...

essxjay

Now, for our final installment ...

Daydream deposited me at the S8 stop near her home on a very brisk Boxing Day morning. Less than three minutes after we hugged goodbye, I was sharing a car with all of two other lone riders bound for Terminal 1 (is it?).

As stated in my kick-off post, I absolutely adore MUC as terminating or embarking point, esp. for the centrally located shopping/dining area where, incidently, I had my first-ever dose of weißwürst on my first-ever mileage run back in 1998, as well as for the pharmacy where I loaded up on the then-still-controlled-in-the-U.S. Claritin. It went for a song back then compared to U.S. prescription prices. But now I just buy it at the grocery store so the thrill is sort of gone for supplying allergy-laden friends back home with "the good sh*t".

But there's still the fine and fabulous Edeka. I wish every airport in the world had the sense to put in such a great establishment.

So off I was to Edeka to stock up on chocolate and PEZ, of which I'm a long-time collector. For some strange reason this Edeka has always had a great selection of kiddie candy and I always am able to score some new characters. And score I did: 9 new additions to the 500+ characters already enshrined at chez essxjay.

Next, a visit to the Senator Lounge for a long-awaited sampling of the much-ballyhooed Leberkäse. Alas, as it was only 10 a.m., said sampling was not to be: the lounge attendant said it wasn't available until 11 a.m. Rats! Nonetheless, I snagged a few newspapers, a fistfull of Lufthansa brand chocolate bars and a chocolate Santa for the journey. Since I cut it kind of close getting to MUC for my departure, I hied it to the gate.

LH969 MUC-FRA A321 seat 1K
The half-hour alloted for boarding was almost laughable. I think everyone was stowed, buckled-in and tapping their toes within 10 minutes. The attendants were very cheery and twice made the rounds for pre-flight beverages.

LH468 FRA-PDX A340 seat 2A
Consider this basically the same report as the previous long leg, with these exceptions:

• The FAs were loads cheerier on this flight. Not that they weren't on the outbound, but how can you not be happy after being well-fed/gifted after Christmas in Muechen.
• Instead of the caviar, I went for the other three appetizer options. My quick reviews: the sea trout was rather tasteless, and the sushi rice with wasabi was, well, a joke. The sushi rice was not properly seasoned with the appropriate vinegar/sugar/salt mixture, and the wasabi was not wasabi at all, but rather a slightly pale green creme fraiche concoction that was absolutely w/o flavor ... the papaya salad was respectable but soon-unmemorable ... and as an earlier posted stated, the ostrich ham w/pureed figs was outstanding.
• For an entree, well, frankly I can't remember since I can't find that menu. (Remember, this is an early afternoon flight, so the menu was slightly different.) But what I do remember is that what I had was okay, but really lacked flavor as did the salad. Adding hazelnuts to grapeseed oil leaves you with nothing but an oily dressing. I added a touch of salt to bring out the hazelnut flavor. Using toasted, salted hazelnuts would have solved the problem.
• I chose the Baumkuchen garnnished with Strawberry Coulis for desert since I've never had baumkuchen. I liked it, but since I have nothing to compare it to I can't evaluate its execution.
• Blankets were brought out only upon request, and the shirts were not offered. But I knew where they were stored so I just helped myself ... twice. <wicked grin> There were several unoccupied seats so I, uh, liberated my non-existent neighbor's garment. My ex-boyfriend/best friend will love it.
• I helped myself mid-flight to several glasses of the Saint-Emilion and watched Infinity and some other comedy. In fact, I didn't quite get through the second movie, cuz landing was approaching on this 10:22 minute flight.
• Oh, and I can't quite remember the mid-flight snack, but it was far above par for 2:30 p.m. local time.

PDX's U.S. Customs is notorious for being complete @ssholes. (They don't call it Deportland for nothing, folks. Beware.) Elliott Ness' predecessors certainly contributed to DL's demise by practically terrorizing arriving Japanese businesspeople, to the point where Nagoya pax avoided DL's non-stop to PDX, preferring to taking a longer cnx through LAX. Up yours, PDX customs!!!

My experience was no exception. The tin can of weißwürst I was given as an Xmas present caused the lead screener's panties to wad up. We had a heated exchange and he threated to fine me $250 for not declaring it. I told him to enjoy his supper this evening and fumed as I walked away.

In my now-foul mood, I parted the throng of smiling-faced visitors in the waiting area, and made to the MAX train for the 38-minute, $1.60 ride to downtown, where I live.

Conclusion

Overall, LH's F experience is simply terrific. I just wish the tarmac routine at FRA wasn't a component of the journey. Other than that, no real complaints. As for the flat-bed seat, next time I'll cushion the mid-back part and cop some zzz's. The one thing I truly missed was being able to tune into Channel 9, as I am a huge ATC junkie.

Nice product, LH.

The End!!


[This message has been edited by essxjay (edited Jan 25, 2004).]

geo1005

Excellent!

I'm looking forward to US's entry to Star so I can burn a few LH FC trips myself.

essxjay

You will not be disappointed. But try to take the long way around, if possible, so as to get a full wine tasting.

lalala

Essxjay,

I loved your report. Sounds like you had a great time!

If I didn't know better your trip report could have been written by my taller half who was asked twice by our FA yesterday to close her window shade on a day light flight to DFW. Everyone was either asleep w/eyeshades or watching their own movies and she wasn't bothering a soul, neither was her
window shade being up affecting the light levels in the cabin -- its not terribly sunny up there.

I think they don't like people waking up and asking for service.

As for the TSA, you two could be the same person.

I recently lost two nice pieces of english farmhouse cheddar at the DFW A security checkpoint, not because of food violations, but because I was so flustered from TSA telling me I had to put my cheese in my rollaboard as I had three items. I hope they enjoyed it.

lala