smit0847

Air Calin’s (SB) recent launch of direct flights from MEL to NOU has made me consider visiting New Caledonia. They’re doing a LOT of advertising here in MEL. I didn’t realise how close it was to Australia. Some very brief research (including from some members on here) told me mostly negative things – expensive, rude locals, average beaches and the upper class locals treating the lower class locals appallingly. However much of that feedback seemed to be from visits 5 – 10 years ago. I also looked at the SB flight times which are not ideal (afternoon MEL departure with morning NOU departure – wish it was the other way around to maximise holiday time). SB also has very average reviews.

So I passed on NC as somewhere that wasn’t worth visiting.

Then I remembered QF fly there are it’s only 30k USDM miles pp return in J (and a perfectly legit itinerary). I investigated the flight times going via SYD or BNE and they’re actually perfect – early morning Sat departure from MEL via BNE arriving into NOU at lunch time and then afternoon NOU departure via SYD for early evening arrival back into MEL. Swift but comfortable connection times. I’ve got 130k USDM miles to use up with no long-haul travel plans. So essentially the flights would be almost ‘free’.

Then I read this article and became a whole lot more interested. http://www.traveller.com.au/gallic-m...-pacific-1yuqa

My partner and I absolutely love France and we also love tropical beaches (we’ve considered RUN before but it’s a REALLY long way to travel). This seems like a really great mix. My partner speaks almost fluent French (we found locals to be really lovely in France given we were speaking French to them). Many of the reviews of NC I have read seem to be the same complaints people have about Paris – you either love it or you hate it (we love it).

I’m looking for any recent experiences in New Caledonia, as a destination, not just a daily stop on a P&O cruise (we are really not 2000+ pax cruise people). I know its going to be expensive but Australia is incredibly expensive and if it’s the same price as DRW or CNS or BME to visit we would much rather go somewhere more interesting overseas. I can’t find that much info on prices – it seems like food is about the same price as Australia, alcohol slightly cheaper, transport more expensive and accommodation about the same.

I understand the best part of NC is Isle de Pines which can be reached by turboprop plane or ferry.

Can anyone provide more information? There are very little reviews of the placed online. Is it worth seriously considering or is the cost just too prohibitive? Are the beaches nice? Is it really like being in France but in the tropical Pacific? If so it sounds perfect.

mfl

Hi smit0847,

It's been a few years since we last went, but we did 10 holiday trips to Noumea over a 12 year period. Some family members went recently and confirmed not much had changed.

If you love France and have never found people in Paris rude (like us) and like tropical beaches, then you should enjoy Noumea.

We never went to the Ilse of Pines, just because we were happy to relax and enjoy Noumea. Yes Noumea is expensive, but in reality you are looking at Sydney prices its the same.

As for the upper class being treating the lower class badly, I didn't see it.

No Noumea isn't for a lot of people, especially those coming off cruise ships or looking for a cheap holiday. Nor do the locals suck up to the tourists, but they are polite and friendly if you are polite.

As your partner speaks fluent French, you'll be fine. English isn't always spoken, but a simple Bonjour was always a good start.

Things may have changes but SB meals and service used to be a step up from QF and the arrivals and departure time from Sydney, usually always meant a pm arrival and am departure, which meant you lost about a 1.5days of your holiday time.

smit0847

Hi mfl

Thanks so much for your information. We definitely aren't the cheap cruise ship 'bus us around in a big group all day' kind of people - we would much rather explore on our own.

The flight times are good in that we can leave MEL early morning and arrive back in the evening without long layovers or the need to overnight anywhere. The SB direct flights from MEL mean we'll be spending more time in MEL and less time in NC.

Is there anything that is especially cheap or expensive in NC? Is it 'less French' and more islander when you get outside Noumea?

Are the beaches clean and pristine>

Thanks

BadgerBoi

It's a few years for me too since I've been there, but I'd return in a heartbeat.

Nothing is particularly cheap in New Caledonia. Nothing. If money's not a problem then you can pick up some nice French goodies that you can't find at home, but don't go looking for bargains. It's dearer than France because of the tax structure and the fact that nearly everything is imported. It has a lot of great restaurants, nothing cheap but you will eat really well there. Service in bars and cafes can be, um, somewhat relaxed even by South Pacific standards, but is fine in restaurants.

My memory of the beaches is that they are clean, but not particularly exciting. I'm thinking of Anse Vata and Baie de Citroens (the latter is the more interesting area to stay, but they are close to each other). A day trip out to the Phare Amédée (lighthouse) is a nice thing to do.

It's unlikely as a visitor that you'd come across any of the class problems that you mention.

I speak French, but just about everyone you will come across in the hospitality industry will speak flawless English.

I've been there several times and don't recall anyone ever being rude. If you're aware, as you seem to be, that you're not going to get a bargain holiday as you would in many Asian places, then I would seriously consider going.

Edit to add: The coffee in New Caledonia is consistently awful. Almost as bad as anything you could find in the US.

mfl

I forget that the coffee was bad, as bad as Paris.

In terms of food, if you want cheapish, the markets (Marche de Noumea) in the morning will give good quality local produce and other ready to eat foods at market prices.

We often just got fresh bread, imported cheeses and wine at the local super markets for picnic lunches. The one at Port Plaisance was good.

There were plenty of cafes along the Baie des Citrons and the l'Anse Vata/ La Promenade. (we used to stay in this area)
Menus are usually shown outside so you don't get shocked at the prices and can pick whats suits you.

The burger bar at the Baie Citrons was always decent, but be warned your burgers are cooked rare and the micro-brewery nearby was also good for beer.

The Ilot Cunard (taxi boat) from the L'Anse Vata is worth a visit as is the day trip to the Phare Amedee.

Renting a car or getting a private tour to go the South Province is worthwhile.

NC isn't Paris though, it has always seemed to be a rustic little french village, with nice food and wine, that happens to be in the South Pacific. The locals just add their flavour to French traditions.

The beaches are clean and the water is calm (it is a lagoon) but there is good surfing available or so I have been told.

One our favorite little beaches was at Kuendo Bay, on the outskirts of Noumea.

BadgerBoi

the lagoon is lovely, took a little cruise around it once, lots of wildlife to enjoy.


The coffee is far worse than anything in Paris, it's only slightly better than what you'd get in the US. I can drink NC coffee at least, if I'm absolutely desperate, which I can't say about the he US. I think they mine it locally since the bottom fell out of nickel

Annalisa12

I loved the Isle of Pines. So peaceful.

Catweazle

I'm thinking along much the same lines. Does anyone perhaps have anything further to add about the outer islands like Lifou?

rankourabu

I will add one more thing, I found that having your own rental car was absolutely a must.

For something close to Noumea - we enjoyed hiking in the Blue River NP.

There is a big Carrefour as you are about to drive into town next to the McDonalds for all your self-catering needs.