goodeats21

After booking an unexpected MR to Naples (http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/unite...ls-europe.html), I was hoping for a bit of specific information to help my short visit go smoothly.

The trip details:
Early August - Arrive NAP 5PM on a Saturday night
Have room (points) at Renaissance Marriott (Via Nuova Ponte di Tappia, 25, 80133)
Depart NAP at 6:45 AM on Sunday morning
No luggage of consequence, probably just a backpack


2 main questions
1) Best way to get from NAP to hotel and back? After looking at Google maps, seems the best way is to take ALIBUS to "Piazza Municipio" then walk the short distance to the hotel. Seem accurate? Any issues to be aware of?

For the trip back to the airport, I thought I would just get a taxi as I do not think public transport will be up and running early Sunday morning...and traffic should not be an issue. Any other option for early morning return to airport instead of paying for taxi?

2) Any specific recommendations for a pizza place near the hotel? As I only have a very short time, I would like to sample authentic Naples pizza, then probably just wander around the area on foot. Any suggestions here are appreciated...for either Pizza place or a walk/route that would be good on a Saturday night.

Many thanks for any input.

UAPremExecflyer

Did you look at this thread http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/italy...ransport.html?
Pretty much answers your questions. A simple search "Naples"

Perche

The Renaissance is fantastic, in a great location. Your time is short for pizza and a great walk. Since you will only have a light backpack, you may want to reverse your steps and go to the hotel last.

The hotel may have have ten people checking in with language barriers, and could waste a precious hour getting situated, and missing the best sight of all: sunset along the water while watching Mt. Vesuvius, which is one of the most beautiful sights that Italy has to offer.

Since you want pizza (great reason alone to go to Naples) considering taking a cab (~20E) straight from the airport to the historical center, two parallel streets, Via Tribunale and Spaccanapoli. Most of the famous pizza places are on Via Tribunale. On a Saturday night the good places will be mobbed, and they don't do lines very well in Naples. The best way to avoid the lines is to get there early because Italians eat late. If you take a cab straight there you should arrive before the lines are too long.

Your goal should be to eat that pizza and get to the waterfront, Via Parthenope, to watch the sunset. You'll have to take a cab. It's a 40 30-40 minute walk and you'd need GPS to do it. You'll have to ask the waiter where the cab stand is. There are several stands along the water where you can take a seat and enjoy a prosecco while watching the sundown. Then walk up Via Toledo and check into your hotel.

If you can get the pizza fast and still have enough time to check in before sundown starts, it's a beautiful 15 minute walk. But don't miss the sunset because you getting situated in a hotel. If it looks like you are going to miss the sunset, go to the roof of the hotel where they have a beautiful viewing area.

There are differences of opinion about the best pizza. I recommend Sorbillo. There are sometimes two places with the same name (e.g. DiMatteo), one serving great pizza, the other not so great. Forget Presidente. There was some family squabble and the place closed. A niece or daughter opened a new one down the street with the same name, but not with the same pizza.

Although you have an early flight, definitely try to get to the rooftop of the hotel, where the views of the Bay and the volcano are stunning.

goodeats21

Yes, I looked at that thread, as well as Sweet Willie's and a couple of others. I was hoping for some specific info regarding the area around the Renaissance, so didn't really answer my questions....but thanks for the suggestion.

Perche: Thanks for the great info. I didn't think about watching the sunset from the waterfront, which sounds like a great idea. And a great backup plan to use the rooftop of the Renaissance if I am running late / flight delays, etc. Do you know if they have a bar up there as well? All the info I have found just talks about breakfast up there....

I really would like to ditch my backpack though, so wondering if you have any specific recommendations for a restaurant either around the Renaissance, or perhaps down by the water? I don't really need the famous places, just someplace with authentic, good Naples pizza.

Now thinking I will get to the hotel and then wander down to the water for sunset...and the prosecco of course ...Maybe stop for pizza in the area if I have time. If short on time, maybe try to squeeze in with the crowds later. From google maps, looks like a short 20 minute walk from hotel down to Via Parthenope. I assume if the locals eat late then the pizza places will be open late on a Saturday evening?

I will probably be a bit restless and ready for a walk. Any issues (safety, etc) if I wait until sunset then walk from Rennaisance to the old town area? Either for pizza (if not crazy crowded) or just to see a bit of Naples?

Thanks again for the great advice...it is really helping me think this through.

Grazie.

Perche

No bar on top of the Renaissance. Just a great breakfast, that you'll unfortunately miss. If you are running late you can see the sunset from there, but there's nothing like doing it on the waterfront. The street is closed to cars, people are mingling. It's an experience.

There's a bar in the lobby, but it's way overpriced, understaffed, and only a place for an emergency nightcap. I can understand wanting to ditch the backpack. From the hotel to Via Parthenope is not far. Just go left out the door, up the hill a block or two, make a left on Via Toledo, and it will take you on a very scenic walk right to the waterfront.

The area will seem a bit shady, but that's just Naples. There are no safety issues walking from the hotel to the waterfront at all, even well after dark. There are police everywhere in this area, even late at night. Of course, if you are careless, you can get pick pocketed, but that's pretty easy to prevent. But you will not get mugged, attacked, etc.

I would say that on such a short trip being on Via Parthenope for the sundown show is the first priority, even over the pizza. As far as eating near the Renaissance, I already knew Naples, but asked the front desk for a restaurant anyway. They sent me to a place two blocks away, which is typical of a front desk, and it was touristy, and nothing special.

The old town area is completely different. Narrow alleyways, clothes lines hanging laundry everywhere, and people sitting outside. You just can't walk around there after dark. Not that it's unsafe. I guess it could unsafe be for someone who appeared lost, but it's very old, lots of alleys, the streets are not parallel, people don't speak english, and many don't even speak italian, just dialect. You will get hopelessly lost. I'd only recommend it early, by cab.

An alternative to the historic center experience is walking up the hill from Via Toledo into the Spanish section. It looks very similar to the historic center. Not like what you'll see in more modern Via Toledo. It has that same spooky, unsafe feel that the historic center has, but it's alright. Definitely worth a detour into it for a block or two before getting back to Via Toledo and heading towards the water, if you have the time.

Naples is not on the main tourist route, but on Via Parthenope, since it is so scenic, that's where tourists will go. You will find some touristy restaurants all along the waterfront, with barkers inviting you to sit at their outdoor tables, etc. I've eaten at some good ones and some bad ones, but just don't remember the names.

If you decide to not go to the historic center and focus on the waterfront, you can take your chances on one of those restaurants with table out front, but look at the food first, and be careful about your choice.

You have two additional options. Walking along the waterfront a short distance you'll see an island called Castel dell'Ovo connected to the land by a short bridge. It means castle of the egg. Can't miss it. By legend, it was the first settlement. Now there are a bunch of restaurants on it. Touristy, but the setting is top notch, and if you sniff around, you'll find a decent place to eat on this very small island. Really, a walk along Via Parthenope should always include walking onto the Castel dell'Ovo.

if you really want pizza along the waterfront, there are not so many good options, but two possibilities to consider. The Sorbillo family is probably the most known family for pizza in Naples. The business in the historic center has been passed down for generations, and most of the children have become pizzaioli to carry on the tradition. However, one son decided to strike out on his own and open a pizza restaurant on Via Parthenope, the waterfront also known as the lungomare (along the waterfront), taking all of the recipes with him. The reviews are hopeful, but mixed. http://www.lucianopignataro.it/a/ina...orbillo/60923/ You can google translate it. I would think it has to be better than some of the terrible places along the waterfront serving pizza and gelato.

Outside of that, just like the makers of authentic balsamic vinegar of Modena (not plain balsamic vinegar from Safeway) and parmagiano-reggiano cheese from Parma and Reggio-Emiglia (not parmesan cheese), the pizzaioli of Naples have banded together to insist on what makes authentic pizza napolitana http://www.fornobravo.com/vera_pizza.../VPN_spec.html.

Most places in Naples don't meet the standard. Some places that do don't make such great pizza, and some that don't meet the standard make a very good one. But as a general guideline, if you don't have time to go to the historic center, or to sample a lot of places, consider looking for places that meet this standard. If they do, they will always have a sign out that says, "Vera Pizza Napolitana," with a symbol http://www.passion-4-pizza.com/vera-...apoletana.html

One place on Castel dell'Ovo has the vera pizza napolitana sign. I didn't think it was nearly as good as DiMatteo or Sorbillo in the historic center, but it was definitely better than what you can get at a typical place.

I think to go to the historic center you would have to do it early, then take a cab to the waterfront, but if not, just center your experience on the waterfront. You will be safe going back and forth to the hotel, won't get lost, will be worry free, and can eat well if you choose places carefully. The view of Vesuvius from Via Parthenope is the origin of the phrase from Goethe, ""Vedi Napoli e poi muori!" Which more or less means, see Naples before you die, or see Naples before you die.

goodeats21

Perche, once again thanks for the excellent advice. Your concluding paragraph sums up my new plan beautifully. Alibus to the Piazza Municipio/waterfront. Short walk to hotel to drop off my backpack/freshen up. Walk back down to the waterfront for drinks / pizza / aimless wandering...including the Castel dell'Ovo island.

I really like the idea of just hanging out on the waterfront for the evening. Less stress and more relaxing. I was also planning to look for the Pizza Association logo on my pizza search. Coincidentally, Sweet Willie had a post about that while planning for a Chicago DO (there is a couple of the member restaurants in Chicago) so I knew about the logo. I was not able to make the Chicago DO for Naples pizza...so I now get to have it in Naples.

One final question if I can indulge upon your time again. On a Saturday night, how late does the waterfront area stay "open" with people around and places to find nibbles / etc?

Thanks again for the excellent advice.

Perche

I can't really say for sure, because I didn't stay out much past ten. It's lined with hotels, and the restaurants will stop serving at 9. I've been at restaurants where I'd leave around ten, and it still seemed pretty lively in the area.

Things seem to stay open later on the egg. On the bridge that connects Via Parthenope to Castel dell'Ovo, downstairs and to the left, is a very nice bar. It has a fairly young, upscale crowd. If you didn't know it was there you'd walk right by it. There are also bars on the island itself, and they seem to still be going strong when I'd be heading back.

If you're out on the waterfront past ten, consider taking a cab back to the hotel. It's really an easy, safe, 15 minute walk, and I've walked it back at night many times without a worry. But just about everything on Via Toledo will be closed. There are police patrols coming down the street constantly, but it doesn't feel like you're walking down a nice neighborhood after ten. It's a matter of personal preference, where you grew up, etc. Some people would be nervous walking up Via Toledo after ten, even though it is quite safe. I am not, but you'll have to decide that once your there.

Forrest Bump

Just happened to watch this video about Naples on FB.

goodeats21

Thanks again Perche...and now Forrest Bump as well.

I should be all set and l am really looking forward to the trip.

Cheers

goodeats21

Just to circle back around, the trip is complete and I had a great time. I wrote it up in a Trip Report: http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/trip-......-ua-lh.html

in case it assists anyone else on their first visit to Naples.

Thanks again to Perche for all the great info.

Forrest Bump

Great TR, thanks for reporting back!