EliteLAX

I am working on an itinerary to France that includes 3 days in the Riviera in the middle of March.

I have a few different thoughts as to how to get there and what to do, but I would love some guidance.

Hotel options so far:

1. Hotel Mas de Pierre (St. Paul de Vence): beautiful little hotel in the hills above Nice
2. Chateau Saint-Martin and Spa (Vence): beautiful little hotel in the hills above Nice - also on the AMEX FHR list (if that can be used as a guidepost)
3. Hotel de Paris (Monaco): palatial hotel in Monte Carlo in the middle of the action (nice thing about this hotel is the free RT helicopter transfer between Nice airport and the hotel)

Any others people can suggest? Are people generally partial to staying the smaller chateau hotels than the larger resorts? Any thoughts would be great.

Getting to Nice:

We are coming from Paris so our options are basically train, plane or automobile. In my preliminary research the flight looked the cheapest (although with baggage fees on easyjet I am sure it will cost more than the $40/pp I saw online). The plane was nice because of how fast it gets us down there.

The train takes about 5.5 hrs but may be worthwhile for the views and relaxation. Does anyone know about luggage fees on trains between Paris and Nice?

The car option is likely out because it just takes too long - but I am open to being convinced otherwise.

Finally, when down there is renting a car a must assuming we want to see the main sites of Nice, Cannes, Eze, and Monaco (no matter where we are staying)?

stimpy

I used to live in that area so I'm not much of a hotel expert but it sounds like you made good choices for a tourist. I guess the only thing I would warn you about is the dress code at the Hotel de Paris. It can be ultra-snooty to most Americans as guests often arrive in Ferraris, wearing mink coats, bespoke suits and diamonds.

Having a car is an absolute must IMHO. There is so much to see and do, and of course the drive along the coast is beautiful. I would rent a cabriolet if I were you. Drop the top for gorgeous views. Nice airport has some of the finest cars for rent. I recall seeing Rolls Royce at Budget and I rented an Alfa Spyder from Hertz when I was scouting the area for relocation. It will be cold at night in March, but with the top up you will be fine.

As for the transport from Paris if you are flying direct to Nice, then sure take a flight. However if you are spending time in Paris, then heading down, I would take the train. That avoids the trip out to CDG or ORY and it is more relaxing and less stressful. There are no luggage fees on the trains. Go to http://www.voyages-sncf.com/ to see prices and times.

It's too bad you aren't going in late April. That is the best time IMHO as things are ramping up for the Monaco Gran Prix and the Cannes Film Festival.

uk1

Geographically I'd think about basing yourself in Nice or Villefranche or Beauliue sur Mer. You can then have a day in Monaco, a day in Cannes and a day in Nice all travel by bus or local train. The bus service is superb - it's fixed rate and the bus between Nice and Monaco I think is a euro.

dcd

I'm with uk1 ... had an one day cruise stop in Villefranche (quaint and beautiful coastal town) ... half way between Nice and Monaco. We took the bus ride to get to Monaco in 40 minutes ... beautiful ride and cheap.

My cousins, stayed for few days, rented a scooter and enjoyed it.

... be sure to visit Eze and try to get to the adjacent town of Italy. Enjoy!

uk1

I use to rent in Villefranche. It's perfect for a restful few days; a beach for the kids in the afternoon and a bus into Nice for the day and onto Cannes - and a small station in the resort to take you to Monaco.

jbcarioca

Hotel Mas de Pierre is about 300 meters from the house i owned until a few weeks ago. It is quite new and is very nice. The pool often has excellent scenery (if you like that sort of scenery) because many wealthy gentlemen bring their inamorata with them on their trips there. The restaurant is nice but not great.

Le Saint-Paul in the village is delightful and has an excellent restaurant with superb views. Because it is in the old village one walks a bit, but it is unbeatable for atmosphere.

Chateau Saint-Martin is in the hills above and has views from Monaco to Saint-Tropez. It did have some rooms with private pools when I was there ten years ago.

The smaller hotels are definitely more atmospheric, but none of them have casinos and glitz such as Hotel de Paris. These places are totally different experiences. Stimpy, as always, has that place pegged.

I have always enjoyed the car trip from paris to Nice, but it needs a few days to enjoy the wonderful sights. I have never taken the train although I have wanted to take the TGV since it was installed on the route.

No matter where you do need a car in the area. You'll want to see the Picasso Museum in Antibes, pottery in Biot, temples of cuisine in Mougins, the Matisse Chapel in Vence, Eze, and on and on. Despite lving there paort time for over 25 years I always used a GPS for radar trap location and traffic avoidance if nothing else, so I would definitely have a GPS.

You are going at my favorite time of the year.

stimpy

GPS's didn't exist for consumers back when I lived there. Had to do it the hard way, but perhaps the more fun way too.

As for art museums, don't miss Renoir's house, which is very close to where I used to live in Cagnes Sur Mer, and not really reachable by public transportation.

jbcarioca

Renoirs house is delightful and usually not crowded.

Another place around the corner from there in Villeneuve Loubet village is the Escoffier Museum which in 20 minutes or so gives you a good idea of how haute cuisine was 150 years ago, and how the English found decent food.

There are dozens of other delightful little places all around there. You will not manage all that in three days though...

uk1

Often overlooked ... and actually my personal favourite amongst the "scenic villages" is Saint-Paul de Vence ...... and of course for those with a bit of a one-off budget for lunch La Colombe d'Or ............

The only note of caution (purely as the alternative view you understand ..... ......) many people feel that you do need to be a fairly confident driver to enjoy some of the driving styles along the corniche ... and of course for much of the year it's virtually impossbile to get into St Trop by car and driving always means an alcohol free lunch which is something some of us old sops find a bit tough.

And the parking in Nice .........

stimpy

I too love Saint-Paul de Vence, but I have to laugh at the overlooked description. You have to fight your way around the masses of tour buses there. It's in every guide book there is as a must see.

For a real out of the way, beautiful scenic village high up, try....darn I can't recall the name and it's late. Jbcarioca can probably recall it. It's a small town way up above Valbonne and it is heavily "orange" themed.

jbcarioca

As a longtime resident of Saint-Paul I am surprised to see a recommendation to eat at La Colombe d'Or. Luckily there is a good hospital not too far away for the serious indigestion one might get there. I recommend going in, looking at the art, buying a pastis if you must but Do Not Eat There. The tour busses are the worst part of life there. Mas de Pierre luckily is on Route des Serres that does not have any bus traffic at all, just the odd motorcycle going at an impossible speed.

I am sorry to disappoint Stimpy but I have no idea what place it is high above Valbonne. I think of Magagnosc and Pre du Lac, both delightful, but neither are Orange themed. Lots of perfumeries nearby, though.

Vence BTW, has the advantage of an excellent restaurant, Les Bacchanales, that nis just a few meters away from the Matisse Chapel but totally off the tourist circuit http://lesbacchanales.com/

uk1

Complete and utter garbage. What does serious indigestion have to do with a restaurant or a hospital?

I tend to arrive fairly early so not been bothered too much by the buses. I've had some great meals there with just m,y wife but also with some really great company and mostly "off season" (if the Film Festival can be called "off season" ....." andf in particular when someone else pays ......!

It's particularly magical "off season" ....

jbcarioca

I'm happy to know you share my view of La Colombe d'Or

If you like it good. I don't want it gone because it does bring tourists. Tourists pay for our services in Saint-Paul and are one reason why our property taxes are so low and services so good. I like garbage collection six days per week, for example, so keep visiting Saint-Paul and spending money.

I don't want to offend you. Opinions differ.

uk1

No problem with differences of opinion. But at least make a sensible comment.

If you eat quickly then you will get indigestion. It has nothing at all to do with where you are eating or what you have eaten or it's quality and they cannot therefore be held responsible. If you are unlucky enough to get indigestion then a hospital will be of no value however good they are. Talking factually about the food or service perhaps would have been useful if you're going to rubbish someone elses help.

There's no admission charge to Saint-Paul and the majority visit for the day (and spend no tourist tax) and most that visit spend nothing - they just wander around and then get back on the bus. They therefore make no contribution to your garbage collection. To benefit from the tourists you need to live in a place like Villefranche where every boat that visits pays a tax based on the number of passengers irrespective of whether they get off or not.

On the basis of this wealth the mayor bought a very lovely police station overlooking the water.

stimpy

Now, now you two. It's just a simple misunderstanding of phrasing.

And now I remember the very beautiful and scenic village I was thinking about, that doesn't get very many tourists. It's Gourdon. See http://www.gourdon06.fr/

And as for the Orange themed town I was thinking about it's Bar sur Loup, which is underneath Gourdon.