OliverB

First time visitors with approx. 1.5 weeks (give or take) to explore.

We definitely plan on spending a few days in Victoria; staying at the historic Fairmont Empress (possibly Abigail's too).

I'd like to visit Tofino as well and spend time in Pacific Rim Nat'l Park.

Is there any lodging in Pacific Rim or is Tofino the best "base" to explore this part of the island? Does anyone have any suggestions for hotels/lodges? Are there any historic wilderness lodges or mid century motor inns with either historic charm or strong local character that anyone can recommend? A lot of what I've seen on TA seems very upscale "boutiquey", which isn't really my speed. Any suggested itinerary or ideal number of days to explore this part of the island at a leisurely pace? We're interested primarily in seeing wildlife (incl brown bears) and hiking in the rain-forests, visiting picturesque beaches, whale watching and kayaking with wild orcas. Should we plan to visit any of the smaller outlying islands like Mayne, Salt Spring, Galiano, etc. or would the setting be redundant if we're spending time in Victoria and the Pacific Rim? If they are worth visiting, which would you prioritize and should we plan to day trip or spend a night on any of the islands? What about Nanaimo; anything interesting or destination worthy to merit an overnight or visit? I would also consider a more remote retreat accessible by float plane that's perhaps similar to Nimmo Bay but without the exorbitant rates. We won't be fishing at all. It would be fun to go somewhere really secluded and wild, though I wonder if we'll find a similar backdrop regardless of where we chose to stay in the Pacific Rim? Does location (hotel/lodge in specific inlets or coves) make much of a difference or do you basically get the same scenery and wildness throughout the area?

I would greatly appreciate advice and welcome any and all suggestions for a Vancouver Island getaway - thanks!

Antonio8069

We just returned from YCD & will try and answer some of your queries.......

Yes, to the Fairmont Empress. Book in advance for afternoon tea. Pricey ($63 CAD) but definitely worth it. We also visited:
- Mile O (historic for Canucks, incl. statues of Terry Fox & Steve Fonyo);
- tour BC legislature (very informative, 35 minutes);
- provincial museum (across the street from the Empress).
The thing is you can do all of this in 1 day.
NB Many Americans visit Victoria via the Black Ball Clipper - a ferry from Port Angeles.

Going north from there, Pacific Rim and Tofino are do-able since you have 1.5 weeks but require a lot of driving - and - some of the roads are like washboards. If budget permits, consider taking a float plane. Definitely worth it for the views!

If not, drive to Port Alberni and take the MVS Barkley to/from Bamfield. The boat sails through the Broken Islands and the scenery and wildlife sightings are legendary. The boat is a freighter servicing communities on the way, so the stops are part of the highlights. (They also have an overnight option, in a lodge near the park). En route, make sure you stop/walk at Cathedral Grove, a stand of 800 year old growth forest.

mkjr

http://www.wildretreat.com/ [go big or go home.. ;-)]

honestly, though, you won't find luxury via float planes on the cheap.

you could perhaps try to stay here...frankly, it's what is around there that is amazing. stayed here in my other life for a while.

then again, i was subsidized as i recall.

http://www.bamfieldmsc.com/

yes, as another notes, washboard logging roads are not fun and its about 4 hours between bamfield and tofino by car.

why not see if you can rent someone's old VW westfalia? my buddy had a great one that was so nice, it would probably be called a glampvan now....

OliverB

Hi Antonio and thanks so much for your feedback!

It sounds like I've devoted way too much time to Victoria itself, though I've been doing some rough planning in the past couple of days (in order to get a feel for how much time would be adequate) and I think that I've filled out a pretty efficient multi-day itinerary.

It's unfinished but I'm going to post it below to get your feedback, as I'd be interested to learn whether or not it sounds realistic and if in fact, much of what I've been looking at could or should be condensed into shorter time...

I would split up our days in Victoria with time in the Pacific Rim, so that we are not spending more than 2 nights in the city at length. I'm still unsure of where to stay in the Pacific Rim. It appears that most all of the hotels are based in Tofino and I guess that it's just a matter of preference in chosing one, although I would really love to hear from someone who's been, to learn whether or not there are certain areas along the coast that would be preferential in terms of their location and access to beaches, rain forests, wildlife, etc.

Here's a copy/paste of what I've been working on so far, what do you think?

I should also note that the 1.5 weeks as mentioned above, is the amount of time that we could potentially take, yet we are not bound to it. I would just as happily go for 5-7 days. These plans are really loose and open as of now. We have no flights or accommodations booked. It's an easy trip from SFO and I have the airmiles. I've been to Vancouver before but never Victoria and I've always wanted to visit (my wife has never been anywhere in Western Canada) so this seemed like a fun and easy getaway. Just know that we are not locked into any time frames or schedules at this point and only have a desire to visit, which is why I've turned to FlyerTalk for advice and suggestions.

Thanks!!



Vancouver Island, British Columbia

Victoria, B.C. (4 Nights)
The Fairmont Empress – Fairmont Gold Junior Suite


Day 1

• Check-in at The Fairmont Empress

• Afternoon tea service in the Empress Tea Lobby

• Explore the hotel; unwind in The Empress Library

• Horse drawn carriage ride through Beacon Hill Park

• Early dinner at The Union Club of British Columbia, McGregor Lounge (or) The Empress Room

• Evening at The Royal Theatre

• Single malts and toffee pudding at Bard & Banker Public House

• Nighttime stroll along Government St. towards The Empress; latenight movies in suite



Day 2

• Breakfast at the Dutch Bakery & Coffee Shop

• Visit Russell Books next door

• Walk along Antique Row [Fort Street between Blanshard & Cook]

• Visit the gothic cathedrals of St. Andrew’s and Christ Church, below Pioneer Square

• Morning at the Royal British Columbia Museum

• Tour the British Columbia Parliament Buildings

• Lunch in the Legislative Dining Room

• Stroll along Government Street towards the Emily Carr House and Holland Point Park

• Wander the streets of James Bay

• Visit Fisherman’s Wharf and Victoria Pier

• Return to The Empress Hotel; relax in suite

• Visit Miniature World in north side of hotel

• Stop in to Rogers’ Chocolates

• Walk along Wharf Street and wander the Inner Harbour at twilight

• Dockside tacone or cod dog at Red Fish Blue Fish

• Moonlit amble through Bastion Square

• Draughts and ciders at Irish Times Pub

• Return to The Empress Hotel

• Nightcap in The Bengal Lounge



Day 3

• Walk along Government St. towards Bastion Square

• Visit The Maritime Museum of BC

• Explore Munro’s Books in the neo-classical Royal Bank of Canada 1909 heritage building

• Stroll past the Victorian and Edwardian shopfronts along Lower Johnson Street

• Breakfast at John’s Place on Pandora Ave.

• Walk along Pandora Ave. to Victoria City Hall

• Stroll through Old Chinatown and Fan Tan Alley (optional walking tour)

• Chinese buns from Victoria BBQ House & Bakery

• Walk past the Capital Iron on Store St.

• Visit the Art Gallery of Greater Victoria (~30 min. walk along Johnson / Yates / Fort St.)

• Tour of Craigdarroch Castle

• Lunch at The Old Vic * (or) Haultain Fish & Chips

• Return to The Empress Hotel

• Drive to Butchart Gardens in Brentwood Bay

• Late afternoon tour of historic stagecoach pubs: Six Mile Pub + Four Mile Brew Pub

• Drive past Royal Roads University and Hatley Park National Historic Site in Colwood

• Continue to Fort Rodd Hill and Fisgard Lighthouse National Historic Site

• Return to The Empress Hotel

• Dinner at ?? {Ferris’ Oyster Bar, Stage Wine Bar, Brasserie L’école, Restaurant Matisse, Olo, Catalano Restaurant & Cicchetti Bar, Padella Italian Bistro, Little Jumbo}

• Evening at the Belfry Theatre (?)

• Nightcap in The Bengal Lounge



Day 4

• Ogden Point Breakwater at sunrise

• Early breakfast at Jam Café

• Visit the Government House (public tours: first Saturday of the month at 10am & 11am)

• Explore Fernwood neighborhood



??? LEAVE FOR TOFINO - 4/5 DAYS ???

......


LAST DAY IN VICTORIA (?)

......


• Lunch at Uchida Eatery / Shokudou – (go early!)

• Scenic drive along the Marine Route via Beach Drive

• Wander through Uplands Park

• Visit the University of Victoria

• Fish & Chips at Willows Galley in Oak Bay

Jay71

Not a Tofino (nor Vancouver Island) expert by any stretch but have gone a few times, most recently for an extended weekend trip this past week.

Personally, I'd find a place in Tofino "area", south of the town itself, and just drive down to Pacific Rim Park because there are a number of nice beaches outside the park itself. The drive between town and park is relatively quick even though it is one laned.

The road to Tofino is from Port Alberni does have some fairly windy and narrow stretches and I wouldn’t recommend driving it at night. You may also encounter some aggressive drivers/tailgaters.
While you can fly into Tofino (and IMO I think it’s relatively inexpensive) I think it’s handy to have a car. Though, you can get by on a bike. Taxis are few and far between. I picked up a buddy at the airport who flew in and he did indeed say the views were amazing.

We've stayed at a hotel once and vacation rentals the other times. I'd highly recommend booking a vacation rental if you can swing it. We use this site for our rentals. The problem is during high season, many places get booked fairly solid and some have minimum day rental requirements. A lot of the places are fairly new as the area has really exploded in popularity in the last 10-20 years. Note that the area is kind of a peninsula with the west side exposed to the ocean surf and where the beaches are. The east side is still exposed to “the ocean” but it’s calm.

IMO, 4 days is likely enough, though I’ve stayed up to a week. Tofino village is relatively small and can be explored in a few hours. Ucluelet is another small town 30 minutes south of Tofino worth giving a quick look too. You can book a whale watching tour while in town.

There are a number of beaches to walk/explore. Note that you are supposed to pay for entry fee to explore the park/walk the beach in Pacific Rim Park when you park the car in the various lots whereas the beaches south of Tofino are “free”. It can get also get pretty windy and chilly (I had to wear a hoodie at various times this weekend) and still get a sunburn.
A favourite activity is sitting around a fire and looking at the stars. Fires are permitted on the beach but there may be a fire ban currently. The conditions don't seem very dry though as we were waking up to a moist/wet deck every morning (not sure if due to dew or nightly sprinkles).

I haven’t really explored the trails in the park. But one point of caution is that although it might seem cool to see a bear, they really should be avoided. There have been a few news segments this year about bears attacking hikers, surveyors, etc throughout the province. And they should definitely not be fed because if they get accustomed to “human” food and start seeking it out near homes, they’ll likely be put down by conservation officers.

While I haven’t been to the Gulf Islands (Mayne, Salt Spring, Galiano, etc), it’s likely a different experience from Tofino and Victoria. Tofino seems to have a younger population, big with the surf crowd; fishing village and ecotourism. Victoria is a big city with typical urban tourist sites. I consider Nanaimo to be a great retirement community but not a lot to see. When I (incorrectly?) think of the Gulf Islands I think of an older demographic with B&B’s and artist colonies.

BTW, I’d like to recommend eating at Tacofino. It’s kind of a stationary food truck just outside of Tofino. The fish tacos are excellent but the lines can be painful with up to 45mins from getting in line to getting your food.

OliverB

Jay, that is seriously helpful and excellent info - thank you so much!!

I had been considering a vacation rental for several nights and I've been digging around Airbnb so I really appreciate the above link.

Quick question for you: is Port Renfrew and Juan de Fuca Provincial Park easily accessed by Tofino/Ucluelet and the greater Clayoquot region? Would it be worthwhile to perhaps spend a night in this immediate vicinity, in order to explore the forests and beaches, while driving to Tofino from Victoria?

You mentioned that the east side of the peninsula is "calmer" than the west; do you personally have a preference? Is one end of the peninsula more scenic or rugged than the other?

Lastly, do you feel that 4 nights in Victoria alone (contrasted by another 4 nights in Clayoquot) would be overkill or does it sound reasonable if planning to tour the museums, parks and outer neighborhoods?

Are there better opportunities for whale watching excursions departing from Victoria vs Tofino or does it make much of a difference? If either would prove as rewarding, I think a morning of whale watching would do well to fill some time during our stay in Victoria.

Thank you again for your extremely helpful response; I'm going to check out the rental site that you've linked to right now! ^

Jay71

Glad the link may be helpful.

Sorry, I know of Port Renfrew and Juan de Fuca Provincial Park but not enough to give you any info of value.

rambling...
I've stayed around Chesterman beach on the west side and Jensen's Bay on the east side. The more popular choice is staying on the west side so you have easier access to the beach. We were out past 2am enjoying the surf and the stars with an easy walk back to our unit (not beachfront). Note, you don't necessarily have to stay right on the beach as there are typically paths between the beachfront properties that give access.
I like Chesterman beach a bit more than Mackenzie beach. I find it a bit cleaner (ie seemingly a bit less shells and seaweed). I feel most of the rentals are around Chesterman while more of the hotels are around Mackenzie. The middle of Chesterman beach juts out a bit and it blocked our view of the last part of sunset while we were sitting near on the beach in south Chesterman.

The view you get is quite mixed between all the rentals. If you stay in town, there are some rentals that are typical of any town and aren't as secluded. Further south out of town... Beachfront: You'll obviously have a view to the endless ocean. Beachfront is obviously at a premium as there are parts where the houses are side by side but with a degree of seclusion with trees between them. There are complexes with multiple units that are not as secluded (we stayed at one this last trip). There are houses that are fairly secluded with trees surrounding them. Note, some units rent different parts of the house separately so you may end up sharing amenities (eg. My friend's rental house had three different unit's and they shared an outdoor jacuzzi and sauna).
In our Jensen's Bay rental, we were fairly secluded from the neighbours. Our view in the back yard was to the "ocean" which almost seemed to disappear during low tide. And the view beyond was forest. I enjoyed this rental too because even tho we didn't have easy beach access, it had a firepit in the backyard looking out to the ocean/forest where we could wrap up the night.

I haven't been to Victoria in like over 10 years so I'm not sure if I can give an intelligent answer about how long to stay in Victoria either. But personally, I can't see myself wanting to stay longer than a 3 day long weekend. It will really depend on what activities in around Victoria that interest you, particularly if you choose some longer activities. My friends and relatives really enjoyed tea at the Empress and Butchart Gardens.

I'm also not sure how successful whale watching tours are from each departure point. But heck, we even saw whales on the ferry ride back from Nanaimo to Horseshoe Bay/West Vancouver.

EmailKid

Surprised no one mentioned Sooke Harbour House

Well under an hour drive from Victoria with world class dining. Yes, that's right

Might not have ever heard of it except that my parents used to live in Sooke.

Perhaps spend a day and night there.

Can't comment on restaurant personally as it's out of my price range

pauq

Just to add some info. You might consider going to Sooke Potholes and/or Goldstream. They are close to Victoria, meaning you do them in one day and go back to your hotel at night, and describe perfectly your intentions. Lots of rain-forest hiking trails, stone mountains, waterfalls with natural pools at the bottom and the eventual wildlife sightseeing like salmon, beavers, deer, eagles, bears, cougars etc. You could also camp there if you so wish.

As for the San Juan Islands, they sure have their charm and can be very enjoyable. It's a different feeling from Tofino and from Victoria. They have a special vibe in my opinion, and are worthy visiting if you have a free time. You can also hike, camp and spend the day in the beach there.

Finally, I see you have a very detailed schedule so I won't go say too much, but I have a few tips. Instead of going to the Dutch Bakery go to the Crust Bakery two doors down. You can also consider a brunch at Floyd's Diner or Mo:lé, both only a few blocks away.

The other food places, at least the ones I've been to, are all good options. Blue Fish Red Fish, L'Ecole, Catalano... There are many other options of course like Drake's Eatery, Ça Va, Zambris etc. etc. Also, there is now a Tacofino at Fort St. No need to wait in line in Tofino anymore Very good food indeed.

The maritime museum is closed afaik. They are in the process of moving. And the Miniature World... it's an interest place to visit, but it's nothing to call back home for. Unless you have kids of course.

There are a bunch of brewpubs in Victoria if you like beer straight from the source and some wineries, cideries and more breweries not too far away. Of course there are a bunch more wineries up-island in the Cowichan Valley.

OliverB

Jay, I can't thank you enough! Such great info... this is all tremendously helpful and I'll take it all into consideration when choosing a rental (or hotel). Thanks again for all of your invaluable tips!! ^

OliverB

I had heard of Sooke Harbour House but I hadn't actually looked into it until you posted the link... I'm sold!!!

I'd only heard of the reputation of their kitchen and restaurant, but after checking out the above link, I'm definitely adding two nights in Sooke! Only question now is: Grandifolia, Artist's Room, Kingfisher, Forager's Room or Ichthyologist's Study, haha.

I'm very excited about this property as I've been pretty indifferent to all of the places in Tofino that I've seen so far; this makes up for it and then some!

OliverB

Thank you pauq, but I definitely want to spend a night or two in Sooke after checking out the Harbour House. I think it would make for a really nice extension of our current plans and a good way to stretch the trip out, since we're afforded the time. Once I've refined this current itinerary, I plan to look into Goldstream and the San Juan Islands as well.

The reason for the addition of the Dutch Bakery (along with some of the other drinking & dining choices) is that we tend to favor local institutions and places of strong historic/cultural resonance over the latest flavors of the month. That's not to say that we aren't interested in great contemporary restaurants (balance is important) but we always try to seek out long established places and local time capsules when traveling as too often these places of historic significance are seen as disposable in our short-lived culture which holds little regard and merit towards the past and is only concerned with the next five minutes. We're very much fascinated by history and tend to focus on it when traveling; it's a large part of the appeal of visiting new places for us, and discovering their past. Perhaps it's also our own subtle rebellion towards the expanding homogenization of our American culture at the hand of this new breed of capitalism which is consuming so many of our cities. Anyhow, don't want to veer too off-topic but it's also the reason for the selection of many of the brewpubs. We're more into cocktails than drafts.

Thanks for the great suggestions though; I really appreciate all of this feedback!! What a wonderful resource this forum is... I can't imagine how I'd plan these itineraries without the internet!

OliverB

If only it were in our budget, but I'm afraid that's not happening anytime soon! I couldn't justify spending that kind of bread in this part of the world. We reserve our truly indulgent and exorbitant vacays for international travel abroad (Canada doesn't count).

I'm gonna spend some time crafting a new itinerary based on all of the great info I've taken from this thread and post again tomorrow evening with an update. I've decided to add 3 nights in Snooke as a base to cover that entire stretch of coast up to San Juan and Pac Rim Nat'l Park. I'll look into Bamfield too... I love the VW camper idea. My good friend had a late-sixties VW bus with the pop-up roof when he was living near Humboldt back in his University days. He often waxes nostalgic about the many roadtrips he took along the Northern California coast and up through Oregon, usually involving sordid tales of mind-altering drugs and women, haha. This is a seriously great idea though and I'm going to look into this for our roadtrip to Tofino. That would be SO much fun!!!

pauq

So be sure to go on one of the walking tours.

gglave

When in Victoria, I always try to stop at Spinnaker's Brew Pub. It's the first brew pub in British Columbia. To get to the pub, come in the front doors and go upstairs. If the weather is good, the patio is very nice.

http://www.spinnakers.com/brewpub-and-taproom/

Easiest way to get there from Victoria's Inner Harbour is to take the Victoria Harbour Ferries. The ferry driver will know where to let you off -

http://www.victoriaharbourferry.com/

I know everyone is a fan of Tofino, and it is indeed rugged and beautiful, but I find it bone-chillingly cold. I wouldn't discount the eastern side of the Island, particularly further north -

Rathtrevor Beach Provincial Park (Parksville) -

http://www.rathtrevorbeachfront.com/..._View-full.jpg

Hornby Island -

https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3215/2...9fb83fd4_b.jpg

Williams Beach (Merville, Comox Valley) -

https://c3.staticflickr.com/3/2399/3...0e1040e3_z.jpg

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com...74613cbb7b.jpg

Miracle Beach Provincial Park -

http://www.tracksandtrails.ca/wp-con...al-Park-BC.jpg