BANFF + Canadian Rockies over the December Holidays...
Nov 4, 2013, 8:22 pm
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,108
BANFF + Canadian Rockies over the December Holidays...
I'm flying into Calgary with my wife on the 19th to spend a snowy white Christmas in the Rockies. We're driving straight up to Banff and spending 5 days at the Fairmont Banff Springs. My wife's never been to Alberta before and I've never been to the area in winter. I wonder if you could offer some advice...
My wife is not a huge skiier. We'll definitely be hitting the slopes at Banff but I'm wondering what else there is to do in the area? I'm planning to take her up to Lake Louise and Jasper next fall (probably mid-September) to spend 5 nights between the Chateau Lake Louise and Jasper Park Lodge. I wonder if these areas are worth visiting in mid-December though? Is it worthwhile to do the 5+ hour drive (accounting for weather conditions) to Jasper Park in the middle of winter? It's my understanding that the draw of these parks are found in the endless scenic hiking trails, pristine glacial lakes, water activities (canoeing, kayaking, swimming, etc) which are all best experienced in the summer months and that it's rather isolated and there are not many activities in the middle of winter, apart from skiing and ice skating. That said, I'm sure the wildlife encounters are far more exciting further north and we are planning on driving part way along the Icefields Pkwy for wildlife spotting. Should I bother booking an extra night at either Lake Louise or Jasper though? I much prefer the less developed wilderness seclusion but if we're going to be spending a lot of time indoors (I imagine most of the hiking trails are seasonal) then the Banff Springs is a far more fun and impressive property to cozy up in over the holidays, right? I'm guessing that Jasper Park Lodge is not that great mid winter because the cabins must get pretty chilly and if we're not skiing, there seems to be little else... Please correct me if I'm wrong because I'm trying to finalize our itinerary and make up my mind as to whether or not we should bother with the other parks or stick to Banff and return to Lake Louise and Jasper again in the fall.
Any suggestions, tips, feedback comments, etc. would be greatly appreciated!!
My wife is not a huge skiier. We'll definitely be hitting the slopes at Banff but I'm wondering what else there is to do in the area? I'm planning to take her up to Lake Louise and Jasper next fall (probably mid-September) to spend 5 nights between the Chateau Lake Louise and Jasper Park Lodge. I wonder if these areas are worth visiting in mid-December though? Is it worthwhile to do the 5+ hour drive (accounting for weather conditions) to Jasper Park in the middle of winter? It's my understanding that the draw of these parks are found in the endless scenic hiking trails, pristine glacial lakes, water activities (canoeing, kayaking, swimming, etc) which are all best experienced in the summer months and that it's rather isolated and there are not many activities in the middle of winter, apart from skiing and ice skating. That said, I'm sure the wildlife encounters are far more exciting further north and we are planning on driving part way along the Icefields Pkwy for wildlife spotting. Should I bother booking an extra night at either Lake Louise or Jasper though? I much prefer the less developed wilderness seclusion but if we're going to be spending a lot of time indoors (I imagine most of the hiking trails are seasonal) then the Banff Springs is a far more fun and impressive property to cozy up in over the holidays, right? I'm guessing that Jasper Park Lodge is not that great mid winter because the cabins must get pretty chilly and if we're not skiing, there seems to be little else... Please correct me if I'm wrong because I'm trying to finalize our itinerary and make up my mind as to whether or not we should bother with the other parks or stick to Banff and return to Lake Louise and Jasper again in the fall.
Any suggestions, tips, feedback comments, etc. would be greatly appreciated!!
Nov 5, 2013, 9:55 am
#2
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Join Date: Nov 1999
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Don't know too much about skiing in the area but be careful about car rental as snow tyres aren't mandatory. Not sure I'd do the icefields parkway in winter without studded tires and chains (perhaps in addition to 4WD - and that alone is not sufficient when you see the number of 4x4s/AWDs, etc. off the road/turned over). You may get lucky and not need any of that but you could also get stuck in snow.
Nov 5, 2013, 3:20 pm
#3
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,108
Thanks for the warning!
That's disappointing about the Pkwys; is it that bad in December and do you suppose it would it be possible to drive part way and see what the conditions are like? We'll definitely be renting a 4WD vehicle through Avis... does the Parkway close if conditions are bad or does it stay open year round at your own risk?
That's disappointing about the Pkwys; is it that bad in December and do you suppose it would it be possible to drive part way and see what the conditions are like? We'll definitely be renting a 4WD vehicle through Avis... does the Parkway close if conditions are bad or does it stay open year round at your own risk?
Nov 5, 2013, 7:32 pm
#4
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,108
Are the Jasper or Yoho hikes worth spending a night in either park during winter?
I realise that I can easily visit the Lake Louise section of the park from Banff Springs (though I wonder if there's any reason to do so) within 40 mins... is there anything to do in the other parks at this time of year though? Should I consider spending a night at Emerald Lake Lodge or is the hiking, snowshoeing, x-country skiing, sightseeing better in Banff end of December? I wanted to escape the crowds and get a bit more out into the wilderness, but it's difficult with only 4 days. My wife is not a big fan of winter sports or cold temperatures (she's a California girl) so we'll be sticking to short 4-5 hour loops and not doing any back country stuff. I wanted to do a horseback excursion to Skoki but they require a 2 night minimum stay (which makes sense based on the effort it takes to reach the lodge) and we really don't have enough time. I'm trying to figure out what we can do in Yoho, Lake Louise and Jasper this time of year.
I realise that I can easily visit the Lake Louise section of the park from Banff Springs (though I wonder if there's any reason to do so) within 40 mins... is there anything to do in the other parks at this time of year though? Should I consider spending a night at Emerald Lake Lodge or is the hiking, snowshoeing, x-country skiing, sightseeing better in Banff end of December? I wanted to escape the crowds and get a bit more out into the wilderness, but it's difficult with only 4 days. My wife is not a big fan of winter sports or cold temperatures (she's a California girl) so we'll be sticking to short 4-5 hour loops and not doing any back country stuff. I wanted to do a horseback excursion to Skoki but they require a 2 night minimum stay (which makes sense based on the effort it takes to reach the lodge) and we really don't have enough time. I'm trying to figure out what we can do in Yoho, Lake Louise and Jasper this time of year.
Nov 5, 2013, 11:15 pm
#5
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Join Date: Nov 1999
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Posts: 21,802
Thanks for the warning!
That's disappointing about the Pkwys; is it that bad in December and do you suppose it would it be possible to drive part way and see what the conditions are like? We'll definitely be renting a 4WD vehicle through Avis... does the Parkway close if conditions are bad or does it stay open year round at your own risk?
That's disappointing about the Pkwys; is it that bad in December and do you suppose it would it be possible to drive part way and see what the conditions are like? We'll definitely be renting a 4WD vehicle through Avis... does the Parkway close if conditions are bad or does it stay open year round at your own risk?
Nov 6, 2013, 12:30 pm
#6
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Body in Downtown YYZ, heart and mind elsewhere
Programs: UA 50K, refugee from AC E50K, Marriott Lifetime Plat
Posts: 5,132
I wrote a review of the Banff Springs so that may be a decent start. This particular review was written after a trip in August so obviously the conditions were quite different than what you'll be experiencing.
I've been to the Banff Springs in Nov / Dec before and it is truly a magical time to be there. The hotel will be tastefully decorated for the season and the natural setting will enhance the feel beyond belief. You & the wife are in for a real treat! Do plan to spend some time just in the hotel itself, wandering the halls and seeing all the grand rooms. I've been told by a YYC local that being at the Banff Springs for Xmas is an experience unto itself, particularly if you're a kid since they run special kid stuff on Dec 24 / 25. I've not experienced that myself yet so I can't comment.
You may want to surf the hotel website or even call the hotel before Dec to see if you should plan ahead / make reservations at the various restaurants. If you're there on a Sunday I heartily recommend making a reservation so you can indulge in the brunch at the main restaurant. This is one meal where it's best to take things slow!
Dec in Banff is just plain winter in Canada. It snows. It happens. Deal with it.
That said, a 4WD vehicle is not a bad idea. I've done it in a normal FWD car and it was OK, but I was being very mindful of my driving. It's true that many 4WD vehicles flip, but that's because drivers are stupid and think "I'm in a 4WD so I can GO!". That's true - 4WD vehicles do go in snow. But physics is physics and stopping is no different in 4WD vs FWD vs no WD. So no matter what you drive, be careful. It's winter. Deal with it (appropriately).
In general, driving in Banff National Park is not too bad if you drive sensibly. Take normal precautions and you'll do fine.
You should keep in mind though that you're up in the mountains. Winter in Canada can be a dark affair at times - night time sets in quite early some months. So your daytime touring hours will be limited relative to what you get in summer. Don't get stuck on some trail in the dark without portable lighting devices! Nighttime in Banff National Park is very very dark. As a downtown city-dweller I am abruptly reminded that nights are actually dark every time I visit Banff!
Is it worth visiting other areas of the park such as Lake Louise or heading over to Yoho? YES! YES! YES! I have very fond memories of walking across Lake Louise. I was the only guy there and I really enjoyed the peace and solitude. And to boot, by the time I got back to the Chateau it was free hot chocolate time by the rink so I made sure to indulge!
But even in Banff it's neat to go explore Bow Falls. The actual waterfall will likely be flowing as it does take something exceptional to freeze, but the lower river may well be frozen. I've walked over parts of the river and again that was a nice experience.
Note that if you do decide to walk across a lake or river, you need to be careful and not do anything stupid. Chances are you'll be the only person there so if you go through the ice, your chances of survival are low. When I walked the Bow River (in early Dec) I heaved large rocks at the ice to see if it was stable before venturing out. On the other hand, my Lake Louise visit was in Feb so the lake was very obviously good and frozen then.
Emerald Lake in Yoho is a nice and very easy walk. It's pretty easy to drive there too in winter. For other trails you just need to check with Parks Canada and see what's do-able and what's not. There's an office in downtown Banff (that will likely be quite busy). They know absolutely everything about Banff National Park so make use of their extensive experience.
If you're up for it, you may want to try Sulphur Mountain. I don't recall if that trail closes but I've done it before when it's snow-covered. It takes anywhere from 2 to 3 hours to walk up there, and there's not much of a view of anything on the way up. But when you hit the top it's a great feeling and there's a nice clearing you can gingerly make your way to where you can sit and enjoy the view of Banff which looks so tiny below you. Then you can take the cable car down (7 minutes!) for free. At the base of the hill there's a (government-run) hot springs which is something I enjoyed even though it was a bit too cold that day. (Air temp was -41C.)
It is worth considering splitting your stay between the Banff Springs and the Chateau Lake Louise. Personally I prefer the old world luxury of the Banff Springs; the Chateau Lake Louise always feels a little too new to me. But I've stayed there before and I was not disappointed. The location of the Chateau is convenient as many of the sites in Banff National Park are close by so staying there does cut down on driving times. If you don't mind that extra bit of driving, staying in Banff is fine but do note that Banff to Lake Louise is 60km one way so it's not an insignificant drive if you end up doing it a lot. Like I said though, I prefer the Banff Springs over the Chateau.
Hope this helps!
I've been to the Banff Springs in Nov / Dec before and it is truly a magical time to be there. The hotel will be tastefully decorated for the season and the natural setting will enhance the feel beyond belief. You & the wife are in for a real treat! Do plan to spend some time just in the hotel itself, wandering the halls and seeing all the grand rooms. I've been told by a YYC local that being at the Banff Springs for Xmas is an experience unto itself, particularly if you're a kid since they run special kid stuff on Dec 24 / 25. I've not experienced that myself yet so I can't comment.
You may want to surf the hotel website or even call the hotel before Dec to see if you should plan ahead / make reservations at the various restaurants. If you're there on a Sunday I heartily recommend making a reservation so you can indulge in the brunch at the main restaurant. This is one meal where it's best to take things slow!
Dec in Banff is just plain winter in Canada. It snows. It happens. Deal with it.
That said, a 4WD vehicle is not a bad idea. I've done it in a normal FWD car and it was OK, but I was being very mindful of my driving. It's true that many 4WD vehicles flip, but that's because drivers are stupid and think "I'm in a 4WD so I can GO!". That's true - 4WD vehicles do go in snow. But physics is physics and stopping is no different in 4WD vs FWD vs no WD. So no matter what you drive, be careful. It's winter. Deal with it (appropriately).In general, driving in Banff National Park is not too bad if you drive sensibly. Take normal precautions and you'll do fine.
You should keep in mind though that you're up in the mountains. Winter in Canada can be a dark affair at times - night time sets in quite early some months. So your daytime touring hours will be limited relative to what you get in summer. Don't get stuck on some trail in the dark without portable lighting devices! Nighttime in Banff National Park is very very dark. As a downtown city-dweller I am abruptly reminded that nights are actually dark every time I visit Banff!
Is it worth visiting other areas of the park such as Lake Louise or heading over to Yoho? YES! YES! YES! I have very fond memories of walking across Lake Louise. I was the only guy there and I really enjoyed the peace and solitude. And to boot, by the time I got back to the Chateau it was free hot chocolate time by the rink so I made sure to indulge!
But even in Banff it's neat to go explore Bow Falls. The actual waterfall will likely be flowing as it does take something exceptional to freeze, but the lower river may well be frozen. I've walked over parts of the river and again that was a nice experience.Note that if you do decide to walk across a lake or river, you need to be careful and not do anything stupid. Chances are you'll be the only person there so if you go through the ice, your chances of survival are low. When I walked the Bow River (in early Dec) I heaved large rocks at the ice to see if it was stable before venturing out. On the other hand, my Lake Louise visit was in Feb so the lake was very obviously good and frozen then.
Emerald Lake in Yoho is a nice and very easy walk. It's pretty easy to drive there too in winter. For other trails you just need to check with Parks Canada and see what's do-able and what's not. There's an office in downtown Banff (that will likely be quite busy). They know absolutely everything about Banff National Park so make use of their extensive experience.
If you're up for it, you may want to try Sulphur Mountain. I don't recall if that trail closes but I've done it before when it's snow-covered. It takes anywhere from 2 to 3 hours to walk up there, and there's not much of a view of anything on the way up. But when you hit the top it's a great feeling and there's a nice clearing you can gingerly make your way to where you can sit and enjoy the view of Banff which looks so tiny below you. Then you can take the cable car down (7 minutes!) for free. At the base of the hill there's a (government-run) hot springs which is something I enjoyed even though it was a bit too cold that day. (Air temp was -41C.)
It is worth considering splitting your stay between the Banff Springs and the Chateau Lake Louise. Personally I prefer the old world luxury of the Banff Springs; the Chateau Lake Louise always feels a little too new to me. But I've stayed there before and I was not disappointed. The location of the Chateau is convenient as many of the sites in Banff National Park are close by so staying there does cut down on driving times. If you don't mind that extra bit of driving, staying in Banff is fine but do note that Banff to Lake Louise is 60km one way so it's not an insignificant drive if you end up doing it a lot. Like I said though, I prefer the Banff Springs over the Chateau.
Hope this helps!
Last edited by RCyyz; Nov 6, 2013 at 12:36 pm
Nov 7, 2013, 3:41 pm
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,108
Thanks you so much, that does indeed help a lot!!
I'm not a fan of the Chateau Lake Louise as I consider it an abomination (structurally) on the landscape and very unfortunate that they would allow such an enormous eyesore to be built up on one of the most beautiful and pristine pieces of real estate in the country. I imagine that in any other season, it'd probably be a toursit zoo as well. That's not to say that we won't be visiting, but I don't see any good reason to stay there when the Banff Springs is a short 40 minute or so drive. We plan on using the Bow Valley Parkway which should prove to be an adventure in itself and hopefully there'll be lots of wildlife sightings. I'm so excited!!
My wife still doesn't know about any of this and I'm not telling her either; only what to pack! It's going to be a surprise and she'll find out only when we get there. I doubt she'll ever expect Canada as we'll be flying down to LA the night before Christmas so she probably thinks I'm taking her somewhere up in the High Sierras, ha!
Here's a proposed itinerary that I've been working on: I know it probably seems really strange to plan each activity by the hour but we have such little time and so much to do and see; plus I find the planning to be half the excitement!
Here's where I'm at so far...
================================================== ================================================
THU, DECEMBER 19:
* 08:30 AM - Depart SFO for Calgary International Airport (YYC) - [6:45 Arrival Time for Int'l Flight!]
* 12:15 PM - Arrival at YYC; Baggage Claim, Avis 4WD Rental
* 01:15 PM - Banff Springs via {1-A} Bow Valley Parkway!
* 03:00 PM - Arrival and Check-In at Banff Springs Hotel - (Upgrade to Gold Mountain Suite)
* 04:00 PM - Late Afternoon Charcuterie and Wine at Grapes Wine Bar
* 05:00 PM - Explore the Hotel's Historic Grounds and Interior; Cascade Ballroom, Conservatory, Riverview Lounge, etc.
* 06:45 PM - Private Cutter Sleigh Ride Through Snowy Mountain Meadows from Warner Stables
* 08:00 PM - Dinner at The Grizzly House
* 10:00 PM - Board Games and Spiced Buttered Scotch in The Oak Room
* 11:00 PM - Latenight Christmas Cartoons and Holiday Movies!
FRI, DECEMBER 20:
* 07:45 AM - Early Morning Rise and Quick Breakfast in The Bow Valley Grill or Castle Pantry
* 10:45 AM - Bow Valley Parkway to Lake Louise Ski Resort; Day Pass + Ski Package Rental - (Sunshine Village, Depending on Snow Conditions!)
* 01:30 PM - Lunch at Whiskey Jack Lodge
* 05:00 PM - Return to Hotel; Relax with Movies, Hot Toddies, etc.
* 07:45 PM - Dinner at The Waldhaus
* 09:15 PM - Ice Skating at The Fairmont Banff Springs' Outdoor Skating Rink at Spray Meadow
* 10:00 PM - Domaine Perrot-Minot Burgundy + Holiday Movies in Room!
SAT, DECEMBER 21:
* 09:00 AM - In-Room Breakfast and Christmas Cartoons
* 11:00 AM - Sulfur Mountain Gondola to the Banff Skywalk/Vista Trail and Cosmic Ray Station National Historic Site + Sanson’s Peak Meteorological Station
* 02:00 PM - Lunch at Bear Street Tavern
* 04:40 PM - Scenic Drive Along Vermilion Lakes Road + Mount Norquay Road (Mount Norquay Scenic Dr) at Sundown
* 05:30 PM - Relax at Hotel; Board Games and Hot Cider with Bourbon in Mount Stephen Hall
* 06:45 PM - Walk Around Downtown Banff; Hudson's Bay Co.
* 07:30 PM - Dinner at The Bison Restaurant
* 09:15 PM - Starlight Swim in Heated Outdoor Pool
* 10:00 PM - Cocktails, Single Malts, and Ports in the Ramsay Lounge
* 10:30 PM - Mulled Wine, Christmas Cartoons and Room Service!
SUN, DECEMBER 22:
* 09:00 AM - In-Room Breakfast and Holiday Movies
* 12:00 PM - Willow Stream Spa: 'Majestic Blue' / 'Rockies Rehydration' Massage and Treatment; Mineral and Plunge Pools, Waterfalls and Baths
* 02:30 PM - Lunch at Melissa's Missteak (or) Maple Leaf Grille (or) Saltlik
* 03:30 PM - Scenic Drive to Lake Minnewanka (Lake Minnewanka Scenic Dr)
* 05:00 PM - Ice Skating on Lake Louise at Twilight - (?)
* 07:00 PM - Dinner at Mount Burgess Dining Room at Emerald Lake Lodge - (?)
[OR]
* 08:45 AM - In-Room Breakfast and Holiday Movies
* 10:45 AM - Willow Stream Spa: 'Majestic Blue' / 'Rockies Rehydration' Massage and Treatment; Mineral and Plunge Pools, Waterfalls and Baths
* 12:30 PM - Take-Out Lunch from Barpa Bill's Souvlaki
* 02:00 PM - Kingmik Dog Sled Tours; "Great Divide Tour" from Banff Nat'l Park to Yoho Nat'l Park via Kicking Horse Pass at the Continental Divide
* 04:00 PM - Ice Skating on Lake Louise at Dusk
* 05:00 PM - Hot Toddies in Walliser Stube and Cocktails in the Lakeview Lounge
* 06:30 PM - Dinner at Mount Burgess Dining Room at Emerald Lake Lodge (or) Walliser Stube at Chateau Lake Louise
* 10:30 PM - Christmas Cartoons and Holiday Movies!
[OR]
* 08:15 AM - Willow Stream Spa: 'Majestic Blue' / 'Rockies Rehydration' Massage and Treatment; Mineral and Plunge Pools, Waterfalls and Baths
* 10:00 AM - Take-Out Picnic Lunch from the Castle Pantry
* 12:00 PM - Kingmik Dog Sled Tours; "Great Divide Tour" from Banff Nat'l Park to Yoho Nat'l Park via Kicking Horse Pass at the Continental Divide
* 04:30 PM - Wintery Afternoon Wonderland on Emerald Lake: Snowshoe and Cross-Country Ski Rental Equipment by Lakefront Cabin
* 06:00 PM - Hot Cider and Whiskey Toddies in the Mount Burgess Dining Room at Emerald Lake Lodge
* 07:00 PM - Dinner at Truffle Pigs Bistro in Field
* 10:30 PM - Christmas Cartoons and Holiday Movies!
MON, DECEMBER 23:
* 08:15 AM - Scenic Lookout Point at "Surprise Corner" Observation Deck at Daybreak - (Along Tunnel Mountain Road)
* 09:00 AM - Early Morning Ice Walk on Johnston Canyon Trail - (Ice Cleats Rental at Chateau Mountain Sport)
* 12:30 PM - Return to Hotel and Check-Out
* 12:45 PM - Lunch at Melissa's Missteak (or) Maple Leaf Grille (or) Saltlik
* 01:45 PM - Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies ~ (Mon-Fri: 1pm-5pm and Tue, Wed, Fri Mornings by 24hr Advance Appointment; Closed Weekends)
* 03:00 PM - Return to Calgary via {1-A} Bow Valley Parkway
* 03:30 PM - Quick Foodstop at Baker Creek Bistro off the Bow Valley Pkwy + La Belle Patate in Canmore for Poutine! - (Alt. Options: The Trough, Rocky Mountain Flatbread Co.)
* 05:30 PM - Arrival at YYC for 07:15 Departure to LAX!
Additional Activities + Options
* Visit Cave and Basin National Historic Site of Canada via the Bow River Bridge; Tour the Discovery and Marsh Boardwalk Trails - Optional Hike via Sundance Trail to Sundance Canyon
* Maligne Canyon Icewalk in Jasper Nat'l Park
* Snowshoeing / Cross Country Skiing in Sunshine Meadows
* Tunnel Mountain Trail Loop Hike (Upper and Lower Trailhead) to Summit(?)
* Banff Park Museum - (Closed for Season?)
I really wanted to do one of the back country lodges, like Skoki, Twin Falls or Lake O'Hara, but unfortunately we don't have the time as they all require a 2 night booking (which makes sense given the effort it takes to reach these destinations) and would take up the entire trip. I also don't think my wife would be into that; she's a SoCal girl and doesn't do so well with extreme cold. We'll have to save those for a return trip in the autumn, along with Jasper Nat'l Park.
I'm not a fan of the Chateau Lake Louise as I consider it an abomination (structurally) on the landscape and very unfortunate that they would allow such an enormous eyesore to be built up on one of the most beautiful and pristine pieces of real estate in the country. I imagine that in any other season, it'd probably be a toursit zoo as well. That's not to say that we won't be visiting, but I don't see any good reason to stay there when the Banff Springs is a short 40 minute or so drive. We plan on using the Bow Valley Parkway which should prove to be an adventure in itself and hopefully there'll be lots of wildlife sightings. I'm so excited!!
My wife still doesn't know about any of this and I'm not telling her either; only what to pack! It's going to be a surprise and she'll find out only when we get there. I doubt she'll ever expect Canada as we'll be flying down to LA the night before Christmas so she probably thinks I'm taking her somewhere up in the High Sierras, ha!
Here's a proposed itinerary that I've been working on: I know it probably seems really strange to plan each activity by the hour but we have such little time and so much to do and see; plus I find the planning to be half the excitement!
Here's where I'm at so far...
================================================== ================================================
THU, DECEMBER 19:
* 08:30 AM - Depart SFO for Calgary International Airport (YYC) - [6:45 Arrival Time for Int'l Flight!]
* 12:15 PM - Arrival at YYC; Baggage Claim, Avis 4WD Rental
* 01:15 PM - Banff Springs via {1-A} Bow Valley Parkway!
* 03:00 PM - Arrival and Check-In at Banff Springs Hotel - (Upgrade to Gold Mountain Suite)
* 04:00 PM - Late Afternoon Charcuterie and Wine at Grapes Wine Bar
* 05:00 PM - Explore the Hotel's Historic Grounds and Interior; Cascade Ballroom, Conservatory, Riverview Lounge, etc.
* 06:45 PM - Private Cutter Sleigh Ride Through Snowy Mountain Meadows from Warner Stables
* 08:00 PM - Dinner at The Grizzly House
* 10:00 PM - Board Games and Spiced Buttered Scotch in The Oak Room
* 11:00 PM - Latenight Christmas Cartoons and Holiday Movies!
FRI, DECEMBER 20:
* 07:45 AM - Early Morning Rise and Quick Breakfast in The Bow Valley Grill or Castle Pantry
* 10:45 AM - Bow Valley Parkway to Lake Louise Ski Resort; Day Pass + Ski Package Rental - (Sunshine Village, Depending on Snow Conditions!)
* 01:30 PM - Lunch at Whiskey Jack Lodge
* 05:00 PM - Return to Hotel; Relax with Movies, Hot Toddies, etc.
* 07:45 PM - Dinner at The Waldhaus
* 09:15 PM - Ice Skating at The Fairmont Banff Springs' Outdoor Skating Rink at Spray Meadow
* 10:00 PM - Domaine Perrot-Minot Burgundy + Holiday Movies in Room!
SAT, DECEMBER 21:
* 09:00 AM - In-Room Breakfast and Christmas Cartoons
* 11:00 AM - Sulfur Mountain Gondola to the Banff Skywalk/Vista Trail and Cosmic Ray Station National Historic Site + Sanson’s Peak Meteorological Station
* 02:00 PM - Lunch at Bear Street Tavern
* 04:40 PM - Scenic Drive Along Vermilion Lakes Road + Mount Norquay Road (Mount Norquay Scenic Dr) at Sundown
* 05:30 PM - Relax at Hotel; Board Games and Hot Cider with Bourbon in Mount Stephen Hall
* 06:45 PM - Walk Around Downtown Banff; Hudson's Bay Co.
* 07:30 PM - Dinner at The Bison Restaurant
* 09:15 PM - Starlight Swim in Heated Outdoor Pool
* 10:00 PM - Cocktails, Single Malts, and Ports in the Ramsay Lounge
* 10:30 PM - Mulled Wine, Christmas Cartoons and Room Service!
SUN, DECEMBER 22:
* 09:00 AM - In-Room Breakfast and Holiday Movies
* 12:00 PM - Willow Stream Spa: 'Majestic Blue' / 'Rockies Rehydration' Massage and Treatment; Mineral and Plunge Pools, Waterfalls and Baths
* 02:30 PM - Lunch at Melissa's Missteak (or) Maple Leaf Grille (or) Saltlik
* 03:30 PM - Scenic Drive to Lake Minnewanka (Lake Minnewanka Scenic Dr)
* 05:00 PM - Ice Skating on Lake Louise at Twilight - (?)
* 07:00 PM - Dinner at Mount Burgess Dining Room at Emerald Lake Lodge - (?)
[OR]
* 08:45 AM - In-Room Breakfast and Holiday Movies
* 10:45 AM - Willow Stream Spa: 'Majestic Blue' / 'Rockies Rehydration' Massage and Treatment; Mineral and Plunge Pools, Waterfalls and Baths
* 12:30 PM - Take-Out Lunch from Barpa Bill's Souvlaki
* 02:00 PM - Kingmik Dog Sled Tours; "Great Divide Tour" from Banff Nat'l Park to Yoho Nat'l Park via Kicking Horse Pass at the Continental Divide
* 04:00 PM - Ice Skating on Lake Louise at Dusk
* 05:00 PM - Hot Toddies in Walliser Stube and Cocktails in the Lakeview Lounge
* 06:30 PM - Dinner at Mount Burgess Dining Room at Emerald Lake Lodge (or) Walliser Stube at Chateau Lake Louise
* 10:30 PM - Christmas Cartoons and Holiday Movies!
[OR]
* 08:15 AM - Willow Stream Spa: 'Majestic Blue' / 'Rockies Rehydration' Massage and Treatment; Mineral and Plunge Pools, Waterfalls and Baths
* 10:00 AM - Take-Out Picnic Lunch from the Castle Pantry
* 12:00 PM - Kingmik Dog Sled Tours; "Great Divide Tour" from Banff Nat'l Park to Yoho Nat'l Park via Kicking Horse Pass at the Continental Divide
* 04:30 PM - Wintery Afternoon Wonderland on Emerald Lake: Snowshoe and Cross-Country Ski Rental Equipment by Lakefront Cabin
* 06:00 PM - Hot Cider and Whiskey Toddies in the Mount Burgess Dining Room at Emerald Lake Lodge
* 07:00 PM - Dinner at Truffle Pigs Bistro in Field
* 10:30 PM - Christmas Cartoons and Holiday Movies!
MON, DECEMBER 23:
* 08:15 AM - Scenic Lookout Point at "Surprise Corner" Observation Deck at Daybreak - (Along Tunnel Mountain Road)
* 09:00 AM - Early Morning Ice Walk on Johnston Canyon Trail - (Ice Cleats Rental at Chateau Mountain Sport)
* 12:30 PM - Return to Hotel and Check-Out
* 12:45 PM - Lunch at Melissa's Missteak (or) Maple Leaf Grille (or) Saltlik
* 01:45 PM - Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies ~ (Mon-Fri: 1pm-5pm and Tue, Wed, Fri Mornings by 24hr Advance Appointment; Closed Weekends)
* 03:00 PM - Return to Calgary via {1-A} Bow Valley Parkway
* 03:30 PM - Quick Foodstop at Baker Creek Bistro off the Bow Valley Pkwy + La Belle Patate in Canmore for Poutine! - (Alt. Options: The Trough, Rocky Mountain Flatbread Co.)
* 05:30 PM - Arrival at YYC for 07:15 Departure to LAX!
Additional Activities + Options
* Visit Cave and Basin National Historic Site of Canada via the Bow River Bridge; Tour the Discovery and Marsh Boardwalk Trails - Optional Hike via Sundance Trail to Sundance Canyon
* Maligne Canyon Icewalk in Jasper Nat'l Park
* Snowshoeing / Cross Country Skiing in Sunshine Meadows
* Tunnel Mountain Trail Loop Hike (Upper and Lower Trailhead) to Summit(?)
* Banff Park Museum - (Closed for Season?)
I really wanted to do one of the back country lodges, like Skoki, Twin Falls or Lake O'Hara, but unfortunately we don't have the time as they all require a 2 night booking (which makes sense given the effort it takes to reach these destinations) and would take up the entire trip. I also don't think my wife would be into that; she's a SoCal girl and doesn't do so well with extreme cold. We'll have to save those for a return trip in the autumn, along with Jasper Nat'l Park.
Nov 7, 2013, 6:45 pm
#8
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Wow! And people "accuse" me of being a planner! Sounds great but if the weather is decent I would not discount a drive further up the Icefields Parkway from Lake Louise. It is a different scene from summer. Also, if you have access to the Willow Stream spa then plan to spend half a day there - it's so relaxing!
Nov 7, 2013, 7:48 pm
#9
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,108
Wow! And people "accuse" me of being a planner! Sounds great but if the weather is decent I would not discount a drive further up the Icefields Parkway from Lake Louise. It is a different scene from summer. Also, if you have access to the Willow Stream spa then plan to spend half a day there - it's so relaxing!
I would love to drive the Icefields and will certainly attempt it if we're able. I've read that the roadways can get pretty treacherous this time of year, so I'll use judgement and determine whether we can trudge ahead safely. Is it much rougher than the Bow Valley?
I'd love to spend half a day at Willow Springs but I doubt we'll have the time... we'll definitely be doing a 90 min. treatment though and hope to relax in the mineral pools and baths. I just wish we had one extra day to spend... that's always vacation though!
Nov 7, 2013, 8:03 pm
#10
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The bow valley is more sheltered than the Icefields Pkwy. Generally the Icefields pkwy remains snow covered and does not get plowed down to the pavement. No salt is used. It is close to the last roads plowed in winter and there is only plowing between 8 and 4. If there has not been a recent snowfall and the forecast is good you would be fine, especially in a 4wd. The road is closed from time to time in bad weather.
Nov 8, 2013, 1:10 am
#11
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: SEA
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That is one awesome plan, coming from a guy who's now working on page 25 or so of.... 50? of the "Official Travel Guide" for our upcoming 3-week holiday. So yeah, your plan is great.
I only have one suggestion, and it's dependent on a couple things.
If it were me, I wouldn't schedule lunch at WhiskeyJack Lodge at Louise. I've never liked the base area (always found it too crowded and the terrain less interesting than the back). Instead, I'd recommend Temple Lodge off at the base of Larch. Admittedly, it's been a while since I've skiied Louise but I think the busy/terrain issue isn't likely to have changed in the meantime.
The dependencies are temperature and skiing ability, but I always thought taking the long way to larch is fun: Take Glacier/Top of the World to the top and come down the back on 109. You get the great views and above-treeline stuff of the back without needing to be able to do the black stuff, but having the option if you want.
But it's all up to you as well, of course!
I only have one suggestion, and it's dependent on a couple things.
If it were me, I wouldn't schedule lunch at WhiskeyJack Lodge at Louise. I've never liked the base area (always found it too crowded and the terrain less interesting than the back). Instead, I'd recommend Temple Lodge off at the base of Larch. Admittedly, it's been a while since I've skiied Louise but I think the busy/terrain issue isn't likely to have changed in the meantime.
The dependencies are temperature and skiing ability, but I always thought taking the long way to larch is fun: Take Glacier/Top of the World to the top and come down the back on 109. You get the great views and above-treeline stuff of the back without needing to be able to do the black stuff, but having the option if you want.
But it's all up to you as well, of course!
Nov 8, 2013, 8:07 am
#12
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,108
Thanks for the tip!
I hadn't really explored the lodge options to be honest, but saw photos of the Whiskey Jack and loved the old fashioned look of the building. I guess it was built sometime in the early '70s but it looks and feels a lot older in photos; reflective of the great lodges of the parks from the early 20th century. Anyhow, the Temple Lodge looks really nice as well and I've updated our itinerary! My wife hasn't been on skis for years and will probably want to stick to the green runs and hopefully work up to the intermediate slopes after getting her footing. I chose Louise over Sunshine because we both value the scenery and pace over all else and I hear it's a much more picturesque mountain with longer runs and will surely be less crowded this time of year.
I hadn't really explored the lodge options to be honest, but saw photos of the Whiskey Jack and loved the old fashioned look of the building. I guess it was built sometime in the early '70s but it looks and feels a lot older in photos; reflective of the great lodges of the parks from the early 20th century. Anyhow, the Temple Lodge looks really nice as well and I've updated our itinerary! My wife hasn't been on skis for years and will probably want to stick to the green runs and hopefully work up to the intermediate slopes after getting her footing. I chose Louise over Sunshine because we both value the scenery and pace over all else and I hear it's a much more picturesque mountain with longer runs and will surely be less crowded this time of year.
Nov 8, 2013, 8:59 am
#13
Join Date: Dec 2007
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Looks like a good plan. Just a few additional thoughts:
- Be flexible. Winter weather may permit your entire plan or not. It may be useful to have a Plan B that you can activate if "snow happens".
- The Whyte Museum in Banff is a small but interesting gallery that's worth a visit.
- When you rent your 4WD, be sure to specify that you want a car or SUV. I know a guy who put "4WD" on his rental prefs and ended up getting a pickup truck. He complained that the 4WD effect was effectively lost as the too-light back end kept sliding around.
- Be flexible. Winter weather may permit your entire plan or not. It may be useful to have a Plan B that you can activate if "snow happens".
- The Whyte Museum in Banff is a small but interesting gallery that's worth a visit.
- When you rent your 4WD, be sure to specify that you want a car or SUV. I know a guy who put "4WD" on his rental prefs and ended up getting a pickup truck. He complained that the 4WD effect was effectively lost as the too-light back end kept sliding around.
Nov 8, 2013, 2:42 pm
#14
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,108
Thanks for the tips!
I will definitely renting an SUV class; probably through Avis as I'm pulling up the best rates through them (though still quite exorbitantly priced for 5 days!)
I assume that any rental I get at the Calgary airport end of December will come equipped with snow tires as standard, right?
As per the weather effecting our plans... I've planned the entire trip around the snow, so unless I'm completely naive about the conditions in the Rockies, I can't imagine how even a large snowstorm could have much effect. It's great for skiing, snowshoe and x-country, skating, etc. Driving might be the only difficulty in extreme conditions, but I'm not too worried. We'll always have a cozy suite at the Banff Springs to retreat to, along with the many majestic and old world sitting and reading rooms throughout the castle. I can't think of a more perfect place to be snowed in!
I will definitely renting an SUV class; probably through Avis as I'm pulling up the best rates through them (though still quite exorbitantly priced for 5 days!)
I assume that any rental I get at the Calgary airport end of December will come equipped with snow tires as standard, right?
As per the weather effecting our plans... I've planned the entire trip around the snow, so unless I'm completely naive about the conditions in the Rockies, I can't imagine how even a large snowstorm could have much effect. It's great for skiing, snowshoe and x-country, skating, etc. Driving might be the only difficulty in extreme conditions, but I'm not too worried. We'll always have a cozy suite at the Banff Springs to retreat to, along with the many majestic and old world sitting and reading rooms throughout the castle. I can't think of a more perfect place to be snowed in!
Nov 8, 2013, 6:12 pm
#15
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: YYC
Programs: BA bronze, Aeroplan peon
Posts: 4,746
A few comments. I wouldn't count on any car at the YYC airport having snow tires. It will come with whatever the maker puts on, so all seasons. Drive accordingly, and very defensively.
The Bow Valley Parkway is between Banff and Lake Louise, so to go from Caglary to Banff you wouldn't take it. To get to Banff I'd stay on Highway 1, not 1a. In many places of 1a it is a narrow winding road with no shoulder, just a drop off. Fun in a Jaguar sports car in summer, not at all fun in winter in a car you're not used to.
I was in Banff for a course last month and went to the Grizzly House. I'd avoid it. Their speciality is fondue, so the whole place smells of stale grease and I thought it was very expensive and poor quality for what I got. It struck me as the definition of a tourist trap. The Maple Leaf Grille is much better, or even the Keg at 1/3 the price if you feel like steak.
The Walliser Stube in the Chateau Lake Louise is excellent, as is the Post Hotel in Lake Louise. They have the largest wine cellar in Western Canada. It's worth having a dinner there.
Double check that both Field bistro and Baker Creek are open in the winter, I think they are not.
One thing to be aware of that was commented upthread is how dark it gets at night. It is very dark and get disorienting just getting to your car if you are a ways from it. A small LED flashlight would be a good idea.
If you visit the Chateau ( and you should) park in the public parking lot, not the Chateau's lot. The public lot is free. You will need a valid parks pass for your vehicle too. If you're there there for a week it might be worth it to buy an annual pass instead of the daily. Or pick up an annual one on Ebay, not that they are supposed to be sold.
The Bow Valley Parkway is between Banff and Lake Louise, so to go from Caglary to Banff you wouldn't take it. To get to Banff I'd stay on Highway 1, not 1a. In many places of 1a it is a narrow winding road with no shoulder, just a drop off. Fun in a Jaguar sports car in summer, not at all fun in winter in a car you're not used to.
I was in Banff for a course last month and went to the Grizzly House. I'd avoid it. Their speciality is fondue, so the whole place smells of stale grease and I thought it was very expensive and poor quality for what I got. It struck me as the definition of a tourist trap. The Maple Leaf Grille is much better, or even the Keg at 1/3 the price if you feel like steak.
The Walliser Stube in the Chateau Lake Louise is excellent, as is the Post Hotel in Lake Louise. They have the largest wine cellar in Western Canada. It's worth having a dinner there.
Double check that both Field bistro and Baker Creek are open in the winter, I think they are not.
One thing to be aware of that was commented upthread is how dark it gets at night. It is very dark and get disorienting just getting to your car if you are a ways from it. A small LED flashlight would be a good idea.
If you visit the Chateau ( and you should) park in the public parking lot, not the Chateau's lot. The public lot is free. You will need a valid parks pass for your vehicle too. If you're there there for a week it might be worth it to buy an annual pass instead of the daily. Or pick up an annual one on Ebay, not that they are supposed to be sold.