OT: My Central Heating is stuck ON and British Gas Can't Come Until Monday
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#1
TodayCame in today and thought it was a little warm in the house. Touched a radiator, and it was roasting, which was odd. Turned the thermostat down, half an hour later no change. Pushed the over-ride button on the boiler timer to off. An hour later no difference. Turned the switches for hot water and central heating from timed, to off, three hours later, nothing. Called British Gas Homecare, "no appointments till Monday". Bugger - it's about 30°C in here now. Anyone know how to fix a boiler?
#2
That's funny, because I have the same problem but in reverse.
My air conditioning is broken and cant be repaired till Monday, it is boiling in my house too, almost 105 F
I am in South Florida!
Kasop
My air conditioning is broken and cant be repaired till Monday, it is boiling in my house too, almost 105 F
I am in South Florida!
Kasop
#3
Panic Stations , Apr 21, 2006 4:06 pm
Have you got a master electricity switch for the system? Or failing that in extremis you could turn off the gas at the mains until the pilot light burns out then switch it back on. Might give you a chance to shut the boiler down.
(PS I take no responsibility if you blow your house up!)
(PS I take no responsibility if you blow your house up!)
#4
Quote:
(PS I take no responsibility if you blow your house up!)
That's the problem, I'm not entirely sure where the switch to turn it off is, and I don't want to blow up the house!Originally Posted by Panic Stations
Have you got a master electricity switch for the system? Or failing that in extremis you could turn off the gas at the mains until the pilot light burns out then switch it back on. Might give you a chance to shut the boiler down.(PS I take no responsibility if you blow your house up!)
Thankfully, I'll be away, my brother's away, my Dad's in Kazaksthan, and my Mum's in the US, but it's a terrible waste. Just no-one come and burgle us, ok.
#5
JimmyTheJock , Apr 21, 2006 4:41 pm
Anyone know how to fix a boiler?
Yes...but not by remote control!
The systems mains electrical supply ought to be plugged into either a 13A socket...normally adjacent either the boiler or if it's an older system more likely close to the pump...which again is usually near the hot water storage tank.
May be just a switched flex outlet although B.G. for years asked for a socket since that allowed their service technician to un-plug the equipment from the mains and be (fairly) sure it was properly isolated.
In either case remove the electrical supply by switching off the socket or flex outlet and the boiler ought to go out...the gas supply solenoid should close on mains failure and the pilot light extinguish until manually re-lit.
Is it a 'combi' which heats your hot water as it passes through or is there a separate DHW (domestic hot water) tank? If you do have a tank there may be an electric immersion heater fitted in that as well so you will not be without hot water...as long as you know where to switch it on!
Like a computer switching off and on again might just 're-boot' the system...but you would have to re-light the boiler to test.
This is most unusual...can't say I've heard of such a fault before...scratch head...suck in through teeth...twitch ear lobe...could be expensive guv!
Yes...but not by remote control!
The systems mains electrical supply ought to be plugged into either a 13A socket...normally adjacent either the boiler or if it's an older system more likely close to the pump...which again is usually near the hot water storage tank.
May be just a switched flex outlet although B.G. for years asked for a socket since that allowed their service technician to un-plug the equipment from the mains and be (fairly) sure it was properly isolated.
In either case remove the electrical supply by switching off the socket or flex outlet and the boiler ought to go out...the gas supply solenoid should close on mains failure and the pilot light extinguish until manually re-lit.
Is it a 'combi' which heats your hot water as it passes through or is there a separate DHW (domestic hot water) tank? If you do have a tank there may be an electric immersion heater fitted in that as well so you will not be without hot water...as long as you know where to switch it on!
Like a computer switching off and on again might just 're-boot' the system...but you would have to re-light the boiler to test.
This is most unusual...can't say I've heard of such a fault before...scratch head...suck in through teeth...twitch ear lobe...could be expensive guv!
#7
Quote:
Yes...but not by remote control!
The systems mains electrical supply ought to be plugged into either a 13A socket...normally adjacent either the boiler or if it's an older system more likely close to the pump...which again is usually near the hot water storage tank.
May be just a switched flex outlet although B.G. for years asked for a socket since that allowed their service technician to un-plug the equipment from the mains and be (fairly) sure it was properly isolated.
In either case remove the electrical supply by switching off the socket or flex outlet and the boiler ought to go out...the gas supply solenoid should close on mains failure and the pilot light extinguish until manually re-lit.
Is it a 'combi' which heats your hot water as it passes through or is there a separate DHW (domestic hot water) tank? If you do have a tank there may be an electric immersion heater fitted in that as well so you will not be without hot water...as long as you know where to switch it on!
Like a computer switching off and on again might just 're-boot' the system...but you would have to re-light the boiler to test.
This is most unusual...can't say I've heard of such a fault before...scratch head...suck in through teeth...twitch ear lobe...could be expensive guv!
There is indeed a switch above it - so if I turn it off, it won't just fill up the house with un-lit gas, and the house blow up?Originally Posted by JimmyTheJock
Anyone know how to fix a boiler?Yes...but not by remote control!
The systems mains electrical supply ought to be plugged into either a 13A socket...normally adjacent either the boiler or if it's an older system more likely close to the pump...which again is usually near the hot water storage tank.
May be just a switched flex outlet although B.G. for years asked for a socket since that allowed their service technician to un-plug the equipment from the mains and be (fairly) sure it was properly isolated.
In either case remove the electrical supply by switching off the socket or flex outlet and the boiler ought to go out...the gas supply solenoid should close on mains failure and the pilot light extinguish until manually re-lit.
Is it a 'combi' which heats your hot water as it passes through or is there a separate DHW (domestic hot water) tank? If you do have a tank there may be an electric immersion heater fitted in that as well so you will not be without hot water...as long as you know where to switch it on!
Like a computer switching off and on again might just 're-boot' the system...but you would have to re-light the boiler to test.
This is most unusual...can't say I've heard of such a fault before...scratch head...suck in through teeth...twitch ear lobe...could be expensive guv!
I can take a photo and post it on my webpage if it helps?
#9
JimmyTheJock , Apr 21, 2006 4:48 pm
Quote:
I can take a photo and post it on my webpage if it helps?
Originally Posted by Dave_C
There is indeed a switch above it - so if I turn it off, it won't just fill up the house with un-lit gas, and the house blow up?I can take a photo and post it on my webpage if it helps?
PM me a telephone number and I'll talk you through it!
#11
Quote:
Just don't leave the car keys on the table this time Originally Posted by Dave_C
Just no-one come and burgle us, ok.
Or your car could end up in Kazakhstan with your father 
#12
Quote:
Unfortunately, there isn't one on the boiler, it's a massive great big floor mounted one and there don't seem to be any controls on it itself.Originally Posted by Norri
I meant the one on the boiler not on the wall - Just in case we are confused
However, turning the big red switch next to it has turned it off! Thanks very much for the guidance Jimmy the Jock.
Will be no hot water for tomorrow morning, but at least we're not heating most of SW19 and SW20.
#13
Quote:
Or your car could end up in Kazakhstan with your father
LOL, yes, although I don't think Honda Civics (even the 2.0l) version are that much in demand. Originally Posted by Fraser
Just don't leave the car keys on the table this time Or your car could end up in Kazakhstan with your father
#14
JimmyTheJock , Apr 21, 2006 5:08 pm
You should still have hot water tomorrow morning if the tank is properly insulated.
This is a good test...if the water is only lukewarm then get off to B&Q or similar when you return from GLA and get a decent tank jacket on there double quick!
A 'standard size' unlagged DHW cylinder will lose around 20 kW of heat per day at a storage temperature of 65 - 70C...that's around 60p at B.G.'s present gas cost and allowing for system losses...or £220 a year!!!
Good quality insulation will reduce that by around 80%...payback is a matter of weeks.
This is a good test...if the water is only lukewarm then get off to B&Q or similar when you return from GLA and get a decent tank jacket on there double quick!
A 'standard size' unlagged DHW cylinder will lose around 20 kW of heat per day at a storage temperature of 65 - 70C...that's around 60p at B.G.'s present gas cost and allowing for system losses...or £220 a year!!!
Good quality insulation will reduce that by around 80%...payback is a matter of weeks.
#15
Quote:
Kazakhstan, actually. (Republic of, you'll be pleased to hear! Originally Posted by Dave_C
Kazaksthan
) Lucky him - nice time of year to be there; all the shashlik stalls operating, not too hot and dusty. On the off-chance that it falls within your PC parameters, ask him to buy you some (legal) caviar - Kazakh sevruga from Atyrauprom (black tin); 95gm = £30 = 25% of the London store price. From the greenmarket or the big supermarket close to Tsum.