Vietnam Trains
Sep 20, 2015, 11:27 pm
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: MME
Posts: 5,813
Vietnam Trains
There was some debate about the merits of rail travel in Vietnam in the visa thread. I thought I'd post some recent experiences (i.e. yesterday).
Just finished Hanoi to Saigon in three legs, Hanoi to Hue, Hue to Da Nang, and Da Nang to HCMC. Seem like everyone was correct in their interpretation of the experience, good and bad.
The trains are slow, the roling stock is old and in poor condition. There is an occasional cockroach and the food is mediocre at best.
Having said that, it's easy to use, was on time, and the views were stunning. I would not have missed the experience for anything.
We did the two long legs in soft sleeper and the short Hue to Da Nang (closest station for Hoi An) in soft seat. The trains were pretty busy, mainly with locals and a handful of travellers. We had SE5 and SE1 trains, which were older stock. Overall pretty clean, but some roaches observed on the SE1 soft seat leg of the journey. Only concession to 21st century was good availability of power sockets. Bring a sleeping bag liner if your fussy. There's no change of sheets if you get on between Hanoi and Saigon.
AC worked well and the seats were reasonably comfortable. If you book a sleeper then it's a must to go with the lower berth. The upper isn't put away during the day, so you're either confined up there or at the mercy of the lower berth giving you a seat.
The 'east' side is the best overall view, with the coast scenes. Spectacular between Da Nang and Hue and around Dai Lanh. Around Hanoi and HCMC it's a bit boring though.
Overall, a good experience. On an absolute level not the worst in comfort (take a bow Rangoon to Mandalay), but pretty basic even for SE Asia. But if you want to see the country then recommended.
Just finished Hanoi to Saigon in three legs, Hanoi to Hue, Hue to Da Nang, and Da Nang to HCMC. Seem like everyone was correct in their interpretation of the experience, good and bad.
The trains are slow, the roling stock is old and in poor condition. There is an occasional cockroach and the food is mediocre at best.
Having said that, it's easy to use, was on time, and the views were stunning. I would not have missed the experience for anything.
We did the two long legs in soft sleeper and the short Hue to Da Nang (closest station for Hoi An) in soft seat. The trains were pretty busy, mainly with locals and a handful of travellers. We had SE5 and SE1 trains, which were older stock. Overall pretty clean, but some roaches observed on the SE1 soft seat leg of the journey. Only concession to 21st century was good availability of power sockets. Bring a sleeping bag liner if your fussy. There's no change of sheets if you get on between Hanoi and Saigon.
AC worked well and the seats were reasonably comfortable. If you book a sleeper then it's a must to go with the lower berth. The upper isn't put away during the day, so you're either confined up there or at the mercy of the lower berth giving you a seat.
The 'east' side is the best overall view, with the coast scenes. Spectacular between Da Nang and Hue and around Dai Lanh. Around Hanoi and HCMC it's a bit boring though.
Overall, a good experience. On an absolute level not the worst in comfort (take a bow Rangoon to Mandalay), but pretty basic even for SE Asia. But if you want to see the country then recommended.
Sep 21, 2015, 10:59 pm
#3
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 203
Recently I took a train from Hanoi to Ninh Binh (soft seat) and later on soft sleeper from Hanoi to Lao Cai (Sapa). I enjoyed both trips. Apart from the trains being somewhat slow and in need of some cleaning and sprucing up a bit I found both the soft seats and the soft sleeper comfortable.
On the short daytime ride to Ninh Binh there were vendors coming through selling food and drinks every few minutes resulting in entertaining game of playing musical chairs with the passengers sitting in the plastic chairs in the isle.
On the overnight train to Lao Cai I believe there were snacks/ water sold at departure and coffee upon arrival. I took sleepers run by two different companies on my round trip but there was not much difference in cabin comfort and appearance.
I did not see any cockroaches or furry critters but after taking my glasses off, who knows.
On a side note I had no difficulty buying my ticket at Hanoi and Ninh Binh train stations. The staff in Ninh Binh even called my hotel on their cell phone for directions. The soft sleeper tickets to Lao Cai were bought at Hanoi Old Quarter from one of the many local travel agents.
On the short daytime ride to Ninh Binh there were vendors coming through selling food and drinks every few minutes resulting in entertaining game of playing musical chairs with the passengers sitting in the plastic chairs in the isle.
On the overnight train to Lao Cai I believe there were snacks/ water sold at departure and coffee upon arrival. I took sleepers run by two different companies on my round trip but there was not much difference in cabin comfort and appearance.
I did not see any cockroaches or furry critters but after taking my glasses off, who knows.
On a side note I had no difficulty buying my ticket at Hanoi and Ninh Binh train stations. The staff in Ninh Binh even called my hotel on their cell phone for directions. The soft sleeper tickets to Lao Cai were bought at Hanoi Old Quarter from one of the many local travel agents.
Sep 22, 2015, 9:00 am
#4
Join Date: Apr 2010
Programs: AA EXP 6MM, Hilton Diamond
Posts: 265
According to Vietnam news source earlier this year, the SE3/SE4 trains (these are long distance North/South trains) are supposed to be upgraded to "5-star quality".
http://vnexpress.net/photo/thoi-su/t...m-3144426.html
I have not followed this news item nor did I ever try to go by train North-South.
http://vnexpress.net/photo/thoi-su/t...m-3144426.html
I have not followed this news item nor did I ever try to go by train North-South.
Sep 22, 2015, 10:27 am
#5
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Omaha
Posts: 1,674
I've only ever done hard sleeper and soft sleeper. Both were great, and I would easily recommend them to anyone. One time the heavy rains had washed away part of the tracks, so we were bussed for 20 mins down track to another train (after a 6? hour delay).
I should also say I've only ever taken a train one other time in my life and that was the TGV in the 90's
I should also say I've only ever taken a train one other time in my life and that was the TGV in the 90's
Feb 23, 2016, 11:31 pm
#6
Join Date: Nov 2006
Programs: AA MM PP, MR LT Plat, Globalist
Posts: 1,002
50 min connection time enough?
After a 2.5h ride from Haiphong/Halong, I'll arrive in Hanoi station at 21:10. Then, I need to get on the last train for Lao Cai (Sapa) departing at 22:00. Both trains dock at Hanoi station, although I may have to cross a street to get to the other side of the tracks.
My concern is the first train may be late. - Should I be concerned and What would be the min time I should expect to make the connection?
My concern is the first train may be late. - Should I be concerned and What would be the min time I should expect to make the connection?
Feb 28, 2016, 8:09 pm
#7
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Hanoi
Programs: BA Silver, Accor + Hilton Gold, YHA Life member
Posts: 64
In brief - yes, you should have enough time, but there might be a better option.
Firstly - if you've not booked your tickets yet, you could book from Haiphong to Gia Lam, and then from Gia Lam to Lao Cai. Gia Lam is a junction station on the outskirts of Hanoi, and both of your trains stop there about 20 minutes before/after Hanoi main station. My concern if you've already booked tickets from Hanoi would be that they'll resell your bed if you're not in it (or that bureaucratic Vietnamese train rules don't allow starting short), but you should be able to ask, and potentially get tickets changed, at the tourist counter at Hanoi station if you're going that way first (to the right of the main ticket hall).
This is unlikely to work if you're taking one of the private sleeper cars to Lao Cai, as you'll need to pick up tickets in or near Hanoi station.
If you do go to Hanoi: If they make you go all the way around, then it's about a 10 minute walk with bags (turn left out the main station, after a few hundred metres first left onto Nguyen Khuyen and over the railway, first left again onto Tran Quy Cap). So even if you need to pick up tickets for your Lao Cai train, you'll have plenty of time even if your Haiphong train is a little late. If you're near the back of the Haiphong train though, you might as well see if they'll let you across the tracks straight to the other station.
If your train is a bit late in, it'll also block the departure (there's about 15 minutes of single track out of Hanoi as far as Gia Lam) of your train to Lao Cai, and the departure of the train before your train, so everything should be pushed back.
Finally, if things do look to be running desperately late out of Haiphong, you could also see if a taxi would take you to Hanoi. I'd guess that on the meter it'll cost about 1.5 million VND; 70 USD or so. There's a new expressway, so it should take less than 2 hours.
Firstly - if you've not booked your tickets yet, you could book from Haiphong to Gia Lam, and then from Gia Lam to Lao Cai. Gia Lam is a junction station on the outskirts of Hanoi, and both of your trains stop there about 20 minutes before/after Hanoi main station. My concern if you've already booked tickets from Hanoi would be that they'll resell your bed if you're not in it (or that bureaucratic Vietnamese train rules don't allow starting short), but you should be able to ask, and potentially get tickets changed, at the tourist counter at Hanoi station if you're going that way first (to the right of the main ticket hall).
This is unlikely to work if you're taking one of the private sleeper cars to Lao Cai, as you'll need to pick up tickets in or near Hanoi station.
If you do go to Hanoi: If they make you go all the way around, then it's about a 10 minute walk with bags (turn left out the main station, after a few hundred metres first left onto Nguyen Khuyen and over the railway, first left again onto Tran Quy Cap). So even if you need to pick up tickets for your Lao Cai train, you'll have plenty of time even if your Haiphong train is a little late. If you're near the back of the Haiphong train though, you might as well see if they'll let you across the tracks straight to the other station.
If your train is a bit late in, it'll also block the departure (there's about 15 minutes of single track out of Hanoi as far as Gia Lam) of your train to Lao Cai, and the departure of the train before your train, so everything should be pushed back.
Finally, if things do look to be running desperately late out of Haiphong, you could also see if a taxi would take you to Hanoi. I'd guess that on the meter it'll cost about 1.5 million VND; 70 USD or so. There's a new expressway, so it should take less than 2 hours.
Mar 28, 2016, 9:24 pm
#8
Join Date: Nov 2006
Programs: AA MM PP, MR LT Plat, Globalist
Posts: 1,002
Found your reply while I was looking to book my tickets!
I'll take your suggestion and connect in Gia Lam. This gives me a solid 1:25 connection time - I'll take the train arriving Lao Cai at 06:20 so I can catch the sunrise going in.
Caveat is that I can only book with VN railways rather than the private outfits. - At least, that's what baolau.vn shows. (That's the site recommended by Seat61.)
380k VND for a soft sleeper - Baolau doesn't allow me to specifically reserve an upper berth. Is that always the case or is there a way to reserve berths, before they all get taken by passengers boarding from the start? How is soft sleeper?
I'll take your suggestion and connect in Gia Lam. This gives me a solid 1:25 connection time - I'll take the train arriving Lao Cai at 06:20 so I can catch the sunrise going in.
Caveat is that I can only book with VN railways rather than the private outfits. - At least, that's what baolau.vn shows. (That's the site recommended by Seat61.)
380k VND for a soft sleeper - Baolau doesn't allow me to specifically reserve an upper berth. Is that always the case or is there a way to reserve berths, before they all get taken by passengers boarding from the start? How is soft sleeper?
In brief - yes, you should have enough time, but there might be a better option.
Firstly - if you've not booked your tickets yet, you could book from Haiphong to Gia Lam, and then from Gia Lam to Lao Cai. Gia Lam is a junction station on the outskirts of Hanoi, and both of your trains stop there about 20 minutes before/after Hanoi main station. My concern if you've already booked tickets from Hanoi would be that they'll resell your bed if you're not in it (or that bureaucratic Vietnamese train rules don't allow starting short), but you should be able to ask, and potentially get tickets changed, at the tourist counter at Hanoi station if you're going that way first (to the right of the main ticket hall).
This is unlikely to work if you're taking one of the private sleeper cars to Lao Cai, as you'll need to pick up tickets in or near Hanoi station.
If you do go to Hanoi: If they make you go all the way around, then it's about a 10 minute walk with bags (turn left out the main station, after a few hundred metres first left onto Nguyen Khuyen and over the railway, first left again onto Tran Quy Cap). So even if you need to pick up tickets for your Lao Cai train, you'll have plenty of time even if your Haiphong train is a little late. If you're near the back of the Haiphong train though, you might as well see if they'll let you across the tracks straight to the other station.
If your train is a bit late in, it'll also block the departure (there's about 15 minutes of single track out of Hanoi as far as Gia Lam) of your train to Lao Cai, and the departure of the train before your train, so everything should be pushed back.
Finally, if things do look to be running desperately late out of Haiphong, you could also see if a taxi would take you to Hanoi. I'd guess that on the meter it'll cost about 1.5 million VND; 70 USD or so. There's a new expressway, so it should take less than 2 hours.
Firstly - if you've not booked your tickets yet, you could book from Haiphong to Gia Lam, and then from Gia Lam to Lao Cai. Gia Lam is a junction station on the outskirts of Hanoi, and both of your trains stop there about 20 minutes before/after Hanoi main station. My concern if you've already booked tickets from Hanoi would be that they'll resell your bed if you're not in it (or that bureaucratic Vietnamese train rules don't allow starting short), but you should be able to ask, and potentially get tickets changed, at the tourist counter at Hanoi station if you're going that way first (to the right of the main ticket hall).
This is unlikely to work if you're taking one of the private sleeper cars to Lao Cai, as you'll need to pick up tickets in or near Hanoi station.
If you do go to Hanoi: If they make you go all the way around, then it's about a 10 minute walk with bags (turn left out the main station, after a few hundred metres first left onto Nguyen Khuyen and over the railway, first left again onto Tran Quy Cap). So even if you need to pick up tickets for your Lao Cai train, you'll have plenty of time even if your Haiphong train is a little late. If you're near the back of the Haiphong train though, you might as well see if they'll let you across the tracks straight to the other station.
If your train is a bit late in, it'll also block the departure (there's about 15 minutes of single track out of Hanoi as far as Gia Lam) of your train to Lao Cai, and the departure of the train before your train, so everything should be pushed back.
Finally, if things do look to be running desperately late out of Haiphong, you could also see if a taxi would take you to Hanoi. I'd guess that on the meter it'll cost about 1.5 million VND; 70 USD or so. There's a new expressway, so it should take less than 2 hours.
Last edited by eethan; Mar 29, 2016 at 9:18 am
Mar 29, 2016, 8:35 pm
#9
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Hanoi
Programs: BA Silver, Accor + Hilton Gold, YHA Life member
Posts: 64
You will be assigned a particular berth with your ticket, and they'll check tickets when boarding the train at the other stops, so you won't have to worry about someone pinching it. You should be able to ask Baolau to give you an upper berth; despite the snazzy website it's still a manual process on their end (although they do seem to be fine).
Haven't done normal soft sleeper to Sapa, but have on the refurbished trains south of Hanoi. It was fine, which is to say, the Seat61 description was accurate. Not quite as comfy as a French couchette train 5 years ago. To be honest, the private carriages aren't exactly the height of luxury anyway (perhaps about as comfy as a 4-berth French couchette), so you shouldn't worry about missing out on much!
Haven't done normal soft sleeper to Sapa, but have on the refurbished trains south of Hanoi. It was fine, which is to say, the Seat61 description was accurate. Not quite as comfy as a French couchette train 5 years ago. To be honest, the private carriages aren't exactly the height of luxury anyway (perhaps about as comfy as a 4-berth French couchette), so you shouldn't worry about missing out on much!
Mar 30, 2016, 11:52 am
#11
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 1,553
Here's a good site for some initial info that can help you do some further research on the different trains.
Yes, you can buy the 4 berths in a sleeper car for 2 people. We did. In some ways, I kind of felt it's kind of poor form tho. All the people we chatted with in the other cars were really friendly. We're just kind of paranoid about safety/theft on trains, mainly due past research from rail travel in Europe.
Mar 30, 2016, 10:27 pm
#12
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: EWR, SLC, SGN
Posts: 1,113
This is about the southern area, but I'll mention here rather than a new thread since the title is generic.
Note that a bridge collapsed when hit by a barge two weeks ago. All trains for now in the south stop at Bien Hoa, and passengers are put on buses the last hour or so into Saigon. For heading north, buses are also required. Construction of a new bridge should take a few months from now (March 2016).
Note that a bridge collapsed when hit by a barge two weeks ago. All trains for now in the south stop at Bien Hoa, and passengers are put on buses the last hour or so into Saigon. For heading north, buses are also required. Construction of a new bridge should take a few months from now (March 2016).
Mar 31, 2016, 2:40 pm
#14
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 1,553
I suspect it would likely train car dependent.
The four person sleeper car for our train did not have a lot space for luggage. There was a limited amount of space under the bottom bunk for storage. I don't think a thick suitcase would have fit under there and I don't recall any storage space in the upper part of the cabin nor outside our cabin.
We were only going to Sapa for a few days so we left our main luggage at our hotel in Hanoi and packed essentials in our daypacks. If we brought our larger luggage, it would have likely had to just sit on the floor between the bottom bunks or one of the spare bunks I suppose.
The four person sleeper car for our train did not have a lot space for luggage. There was a limited amount of space under the bottom bunk for storage. I don't think a thick suitcase would have fit under there and I don't recall any storage space in the upper part of the cabin nor outside our cabin.
We were only going to Sapa for a few days so we left our main luggage at our hotel in Hanoi and packed essentials in our daypacks. If we brought our larger luggage, it would have likely had to just sit on the floor between the bottom bunks or one of the spare bunks I suppose.
Apr 5, 2016, 6:44 pm
#15
Join Date: Nov 2006
Programs: AA MM PP, MR LT Plat, Globalist
Posts: 1,002
For those wanting to transport luggage to Sapa, perhaps book a private co like Victoria. I booked Hanoi (Gia Lam) to Lao Cai in soft sleeper thru Baolau.vn. - Using the public service for reasons stated previously and hope it isn't too shabby!
Overnight, they sent me a printable boarding pass - with 2D barcode - that I presumably bring to the station. Supposedly I have a reserved seat in Coach 7, Seat 14 - can't find any indication online whether this is indeed the soft sleeper I booked.
Overnight, they sent me a printable boarding pass - with 2D barcode - that I presumably bring to the station. Supposedly I have a reserved seat in Coach 7, Seat 14 - can't find any indication online whether this is indeed the soft sleeper I booked.