Azerai Luang Prabang (June 2017)

Some background.  This was a three day stop in Luang Prabang, having already stayed two nights at the Peninsula BKK (Grand Deluxe Suite) and Amansara.  We had originally booked into Amantaka but after getting some weird vibes (like utter silence regarding reservation, process, itinerary, etc and lack of clarity regarding inclusions vs. activities listed on the website) we opted for Azerai.  More recent reviews suggest that Amantaka is in great shape, and I hope so.  But given that Amantaka was top dollar (3x Azerai) and not clear at that time as to standards of service etc, we decided to save some money and try Azerai.  As Amansara is our only Aman experience, I cannot compare Azerai to Amantaka directly.  This review is however given against some experience of luxury hotels (PH, 4S and RCCP in NYC, Pen and 4S in HKG, Pen in BKK, and others).

We were met at the airport by a rep for the hotel and delivered to the hotel by van.  The check in process itself was fine, but the assistant GM was kind of a strange bird.  He sat us down and attempted some small talk, I think the idea being to keep us entertained while my card was being processed and the formalities completed, although he never said that.  Worse, the small talk itself was pretty stilted.  In any event, after my card was returned and I signed the papers, he made no move to get up.  After 30 more seconds of this awkwardness, I asked if our room was ready.  At that point he seemed to twig that, just perhaps, we had not come all the way to Laos to chat with him.

The room was small.  I knew it would be, so I say that not as disparagement or by way of surprise.  It was precisely as it appeared on the website, and as I had been led to believe.  Smallness, though, is the predominent feature when you come from a suite at the Pen BKK or Amansara.

The bed was firm and comfortable, and gauzy linen curtains made a nice visual barrier to the perfectly nice shower and bathroom, situated at opposite ends of the entryway.  The blond wood aesthetic is modern, and correctly captured the "affordable luxury" thing they are going for.  I would compare the room to some of the Ws, Andaz and maybe Le Meridien rooms that I have been in, or perhaps a second cousin of 4S, and none of that I mean as faint praise.  We liked its simplicity and thoughtful layout, were glad of solid water pressure, pleasant lighting and excellent air conditioning, and a fair price for the product.

Service was solid.  The GM talked to us when we saw him, and the assistant GM (he of the awkward small talk) asked if he could assist in any way each time we saw him.  All the staff spoke perfect English, and all were very accommodating.  I would say that it was definitely a step above most hotels, but not quite as mind-reading as service can be at some hotels like 4S or Pen.

We had zero service glitches, and one interesting experience.  We had booked a cooking class at a local restaurant, through the hotel, and the restaurant cancelled the class.  The hotel called us the evening before to advise, and to suggest alternatives.  Rather than call my US mobile, though, they thoughtfully called the operator of the boat we were on (a Mekong cruise, also arranged through the hotel) and had him hand his phone to me, which saved a massive international roaming call bill.  The alternative they offered were a private class at an exorbitant cost (which we declined) and a second option at a much lower rate.  I will review that below, but in terms of "service" I would call this a great result: the hotel learned of an issue, found a useful way to communicate with us and offer alternatives, and saw to it that it was made right, all even though the problem was not of their own making.  Kudos.

The hotel rate included a buffet breakfast that was more than adequate for us (pastries, fruit, yoghurts etc) and also a la carte options that looked good although we did not need them.  Laotian coffee is terrific, and a welcome heart-starter each morning.

We ate in the restaurant one other time, and although it was only a midnight snack after a long walk, it was very good.  I really can't count the number of times a hotel has made a mess of the most basic of things (a plate of french fries, which is what my wife wanted) and the Azerai's fries were excellent: hot, salty and crunchy.  The ice cream I wanted was just the ticket.  The best part was that the prices were completely appropriate: $2 for the ice cream and something very much of that ilk for the fries.

Part of the joy of Luang Prabang was the local Lao food, and the fixed exchange rate (US$1 = 8,000 kip) made it very easy to get around, regardless of whether we were in a cafe, at a market, or just getting a beer.  Everyone took USD and gave us change in kip.

The location is fabulous: diagonally across from the entrance to the Night Market and main street.  It is quite near Amantaka, but I think better located.  We walked or biked everywhere, and they have bikes for free for you to borrow.

We arranged a city tour with a lovely guide, Mong, who was utterly immune to the temperature and humidity.  The small museum was interesting, but learning about Lao culture from Mong was more interesting still.  We spent a morning with her getting aquainted with the city and its heritage, and seeing some of the temples etc.  We also took a Mekong cruise, that was very relaxing and scenic.  Not a patch on the Amansara boat ride on Tonle Sap lake, mind you, but very nice in its own way.

The unexpected highlight of the trip, aside from LP itself, was The Bamboo Experience.  This was a family-run affair that ranged through the many uses of bamboo: we fired bamboo crossbows, walked on bamboo stilts, wove bamboo crafts, watched traditional dancing with bamboo poles, and ate a lunch of bamboo foods in a bamboo house.  It sounds hokey to the nth degree as I write it, but it was immensely interesting.  

The ride out there was dispiriting, as we wove on bad and worse roads between dilapidated houses.  The muddy road ended at a farmhouse with a lovely view over a terraced rice paddy and bamboo grove, to the mist-shrouded mountains in the background.  It was serene and scenic.  The owner's nephew was, in effect, MC, translating as various locals shared their expertise with us joining in (i.e. weaving, cooking, etc.)  It was an enterprise started and run by the family, and we were the only ones there even though they accommodate tours as big as 60 during the season.  I think they were putting their best foot forward as the owner confided this was his first group from the Azerai and he hoped we would tell the GM, Gary, of our thoughts.  We gladly told Gary that it was an excellent time spent with Lao peple, learning a little of how they live and enjoying the food.  A cooking class it was not, but memorable all the same.

I am glad we stayed at the Azerai.  For Luang Prabang it was a very well-situated base and very comfortable.  It is not as lovely and private as Amansara, or as rigorously polished as a Four Seasons.  Then again, it is not the same price point, or even close.  If we went back to LP with our girls,  or for a full week or more, I would absolutely stay there again.  If we went back on a special-occasion/romantic trip just with adults, I would try and find recent reviews of Amantaka to see whether the vault up in price is worth it.  That price/value ratio was just not there for us when we went, and I really liked the Azerai in terms of price/value and comfort.  GM Gary is doing a terrific job, and we loved our stay.