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jettad Jul 21, 2023 3:09 pm

My trip to Eigg
 
1/3

Hello. This is my first (and most likely last!) trip report that has taken me quite some time to write as I'm not a writer! Hope you enjoy it.

My trip took a long time in planning due to the pandemic and then work. My brother and a few friends like to get together every few years and go on a photo workshop/tour. (Some photos I took will be in the second part). Our last trip was ending as the pandemic was beginning back in 2020, so it was time for another one. We are fans of Bruce Percy's imagery, and finally managed to book one of his photo trips that fit all our budgets and dates, a 5 day workshop in Eigg, Scotland. This report is my trip from Seattle (USA) to Wetherby (England), to the Isle of Eigg (Scotland) and back in March/April 2023.

SEA - LHR

My journey begins with a 20 minute car ride down I-5 to SeaTac International Airport. I will be flying on BA0052, Club World, Seat 7K. I was stressed a bit due to a posting here at FT about being bumped from seat 7K on a 787

After being dropped off at the departures area, check in for BA's Club World was 15 minutes, a bit long, but that may be because I joined the wrong line!! The check in agent was polite, and check in went without any issues. And still in seat 7K. I started to line up at the TSA PreCheck security line at 12:01, and through security by 12:09. Overall I consider that to be a successful check in, less than 26 minutes from drop off to clearing security! Onto the BA Lounge near the S gates, most international long haul flights leave from there, and my flight was leaving from S11, just by the lounge stairs. The BA lounge is not the largest lounge, and does not have the best food offerings, but it is a pleasant place to wait. I used the barcode on the table and was brought a coffee, water and one of the smallest "sandwiches" I've ever seen, I wish I'd remembered to take a photo. The staff there were great, and after an hour or so my flight was called. I would rate my lounge experience as 'meh', It wasn't the best, but it wasn't that bad.

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The BA business lounge at SEA.

I was in group 2, so had to wait a few minutes for boarding. This is where I thought I may lose my 7K seat, but not today! I was scanned through and onto the plane I went. My flight today was on a Boeing B787-900

BA52 MODEL G-ZBKN
SEAT CONFIGURATION 216 seats
8 First 42 Business 39 Eco+ 127 Economy

The seat was the older Club World herringbone configuration (hence my "joy" at getting 7K). I feel as if we (Seattle) will be the last route to get the Club Suites. As I settled down in the seat, boarding finally came to an end, and there was no one sitting in 7E, another bonus. That's one of the major downsides to me with the Club World seating, is staring at someone for the takeoff and landing, although if I get the window seat I'll just look out of the window. The crew were sparse and I don't think I saw or spoke to any of them until we were airborne. The flight was not full (at least in CW), and after takeoff the crew came round with drinks. I tend not to drink alcohol on planes, although I will have a beer with dinner when they have anything other than Heineken, so I had my traditional tomato juice and waited to have something alcoholic later. The scenery was stunning after we had taken off as there were very few clouds (as there usually are). I truly love the mountains of the PNW, especially when covered in snow.

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Today's menu.

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Take off!

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The view looking east after take off.

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Obligitory Mt Rainier photo.

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North Cascades

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Time for tomato juice and nuts.

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Canada

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More Canada.

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More Canada zoomed in!

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Roasted beetroot salad (quite tasty).

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Beef short rib, also quite tasty, but a bit fatty.

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My view to the right for the flight

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Almost there

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Dinner was served and I had the roasted beetroot salad (quite tasty) and the beef short rib, (which was a little fatty, but not too bad), followed by the pistachio mousse. (just okay). Once the desert had been given out, that was the last l saw of the crew for a while. I don't know if they forgot I was in the corner, but I eventually had to use the call button to get them to come back to clear the dessert plate, an apology and an admission that they had indeed forgotten I was there! Once all was cleared I tried to sleep. Always an issue for me on planes, but managed to nap on and off and I was quite happy about that as I was looking out of the window as we flew over northern Canada or Greenland (not sure which) to see the aura borealis dancing. It is one of those things that just mesmerizes me, just stunning! I did take a photo, but thb, I'm not happy with it so won't post it.

Breakfast was served shortly before landing. I just had coffee and a pastry as I was going to go to the arrivals lounge after landing


DISTANCE 7,710km 4,791mi
FLIGHT TIME 9 hours 25 min

Departure 14:53 PDT (18min late)
Arrival 06:57 GMT (7 min early)


After a quick stop clearing immigration and getting my luggage I headed up to the BA Arrivals lounge for some breakfast and a shower. The shower was welcomed, but I do find the shower area to be a little too small, and a bit rundown. Food was next on the agenda, and the offerings there were decent and better (in my opinion) than the food offered on the plane. The lounge was fairly quiet and I enjoyed having a bit of time to drink coffee and eat before the train to London's Paddington Station via the Heathrow Express.


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The arrivals lounge shower.

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BA's business arrivals lounge.

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BA's business arrivals lounge.

to be used for crew, but was reassured by a number of very knowledgeable members who said the Seattle/Heathrow flight seldom moves passengers from this seat.


Kings Cross to York

I took the Heathrow Express (£37 - return ticket) to Paddington and cabbed (£22) it to Kings Cross. It was fairly busy, so it ended up taking me about 35 mins or so. Got to KXC and straight onto the train. As I had managed to get a rewards flight I paid extra for the First Class carriage on LNER's London Kings Cross to York. ($79.58) 11:00am-12:52pm (1h 52mins, 0 changes)

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Waiting for the Heathrow Express

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the Heathrow Express is arriving.

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On the Heathrow Express

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LNER's London Kings Cross to York.

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The menu on the train

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(The coffee stain was me!)

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Crowded, but not full.

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York station

The train journey was pretty uneventful. I am originally from the UK, and I find I just stare out of the window on the train journey up to York, I really miss the UK countryside. At York my brother picked me up and off to Wetherby to stay with my parents for a few days.


Wetherby, Yorkshire

On the first evening in Wetherby I had to get 'proper' fish and chips, so it was off to the Wetherby Whaler. If you are planning a visit to Wetherby it is a nice small town, has a market every Thursday and some nice walks nearby. If after all the walking you are in need of a good beer, The Mews is the place to go, followed by a fantastic vegetarian curry at Mango. I'd highly recommend Mango's, it is really a great restaurant, I've never had a bad experience there, both the food and the staff are fantastic.

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Wetherby Whaler's fish and chips.

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A typical March day in Wetherby (Thursday Market)

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17 minutes later, blue skies!

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Wetherby

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The Mews - GREAT beer.

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Mango - GREAT vegetarian curries.


Wetherby to Glencoe.

After a few days it was off to Scotland for the photo trip. Three of us were travelling up in one car, and we were breaking the trip with a couple of nights in Glencoe. The road trip was uneventful, and after about 6.5 hours we arrived at our hotel, The Clachaig Inn.

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The route from Wetherby, England to Glencoe, Scotland

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The road to Glencoe, Scotland

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The road to Glencoe, Scotland

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The road to Glencoe, Scotland

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The road into Glencoe, Scotland

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Glencoe, Scotland

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Glencoe, Scotland



The Clachaig Inn is a hikers hotel and even in March it was pretty full. It does have three bars/restaurants, one quieter than the other, and one (Snug Bar) was closed when we were there. We, being from Yorkshire, immediately headed to the less quiet one (Boots Bar), where the atmosphere was more pub than hotel bar - much more to our liking.


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The Clachaig Inn

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The Clachaig Inn

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The view from the hotel

The food served in both areas came out from the same kitchen and the menu was pretty much identical. The beer was good here! They had some terrific cask conditioned ales. One of the evenings we were there they had live music (Saturday). The band was quite good and a great evening was had by all!

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A great pint of cask ale.

The rooms were pretty standard, but the ones my brother and I had overlooked the Boots Bar, one of the nights after closing the staff decided to play music incredibly loud which was a bit annoying. They did stop it fairly quickly, but I was wide awake at that point!

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My room at The Clachaig Inn

If you stay there and tend to go to bed early I'd ask not to be in the rooms overlooking the bar. The food there was decent, much better than some restaurants I've eaten at in the UK before. Breakfast was included and was very pleasant. We spent most of our full day walking around Glencoe and taking pictures. It is surprising how busy it was in March, I've heard it is a zoo in the summer months, so my recommendation is to visit Glencoe during the off peak times.

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Glencoe

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Glencoe

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Glencoe

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Glencoe

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Glencoe

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Glencoe

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Glencoe
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Glencoe

jettad Jul 21, 2023 3:10 pm

2/3 This second part is a tad photo heavy, so sorry for that!

Glencoe to Mallaig

My brother talked us into taking the train from Fort William to Mallaig as he said it is one of the best rail journeys in Scotland. We drove from Glencoe to Fort William with plenty of time to have a coffee and pastry at the Wildcat Cafe, a vegan cafe that has some delicious vegan pastries and very good coffee, highly recommend it, even for meat eaters like myself.
The train from Fort William to Mallaig Cost - £14.50 Sun 26 March, 12:12 - 13:38 - 1h 26mins

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The route from Glencoe to Mallaig.

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Fort William

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Fort William

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The Wildcat Cafe, Fort William.

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Fort William

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Fort William

I am glad we were talked into taking the train. We first set off past Loch Eil, with great views of Ben Nevis behind us. We then went over the Glenfinnan Viaduct, better known as the viaduct shown in the Harry Potter movies. They made an announcement about it about 2 minutes prior to going over it and then played some Harry Potter music as we went over the viaduct. We then progressed to the west coast of Scotland where we saw the Isle of Eigg for the first time. We got off at the station before Mallaig (Morar) so we could drive up the coast a little, and have a stop at Silversands Beaches. I've always loved Scotland's incredible scenery, so the train trip was well worth it.

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Our train to Mallaig.

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Our train to Mallaig.

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We are off.

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Ben Nevis

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The Glenfinnan Viaduct

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The view as we crossed the Glenfinnan Viaduct

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The Glenfinnan Viaduct

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The Glenfinnan Viaduct

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Views from the train.

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Views from the train.

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Our first sighting of the Isle of Eigg from the train.

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The path to Silversands Beach

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Silversands Beach

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Silversands Beach

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Silversands Beach

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Silversands Beach

At Mallaig we checked into The West Highland Hotel for one night as we were meeting Bruce and taking the ferry to Eigg the following morning. We ate at a local restaurant (The Cabin) which was pleasant, and then went back to the hotel lounge to watch England vs Ukraine in the UEFA Euro qualifiers with a couple more beers.

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The West Highland Hotel

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The West Highland Hotel

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The West Highland Hotel

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The view from the West Highland Hotel

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The view from my hotel room.

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The church next to the hotel.

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The West Highland Hotel lounge area.



Mallaig to Eigg

We were up early for our ferry to Eigg, and it was a lovely morning to be on a ferry. The water was calm, and thankfully stayed that way for the crossing. We all met at the ferry terminal, and after introductions boarded the ferry to Eigg. The trip was uneventful, and the coffee on board was bad, really bad....

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Eigg from the hotel on the morning of the ferry crossing.

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Eigg from the hotel on the morning of the ferry crossing.

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Eigg from the hotel on the morning of the ferry crossing.

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Eigg from the hotel on the morning of the ferry crossing.

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Meeting at the ferry terminal.

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On board the ferry

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Leaving Mallaig.

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Mallaig

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Views from the crossing.

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Views from the crossing.

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The Isle of Eigg

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Views from the crossing.


After landing we got the island's only taxi, Charlie Galli. CBS did a bit on him a while ago and I think there are other YouTube videos on him. He was an interesting character and I could listen to his stories all day.
We were dropped off at our home for the next 5 days, the Lageorna Guest house and Self Catering cottage. Two of the group stayed in the guest house, and we 3 had the self catering cottage, which was used as the photo workshop base. There are 3 bedrooms there and we drew straws to see who got the en suite bedroom, the large bedroom downstairs and the kids bedroom. As usual, I got the kids' bedroom. We all ate at the restaurant, for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The food was very good, and they catered for vegetarians.

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The view from my bedroom on Eigg

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The Lageorna Guest house and Self Catering cottage.

The trip there was a photo trip, so every day we were up at 5am, and trekked down to the 2 main areas we were there to photograph, the beach at the Bay of Laig and Singing Sands Beach.

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The road to the beach we took 3 times a day, everyday for 5 days.

We'd be back for lunch, then a lecture from Bruce and back down after dinner for the evening. Weather wise it was an okay week. We did get blue skies on a couple of days - we were hoping for more drama! But overall not a bad week. After 5 days it was time to leave. Charlie arrived to take us back to the ferry. It was a good 5 days.

Here are a few of my images from the 5 days. They are not your traditional landscapes, but this is what I enjoy doing.

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jettad Jul 21, 2023 3:11 pm

3/3

Eigg to Wetherby

Our ferry back to Mallaig was the passenger ferry and again we were fortunate to have calm waters for the crossing. I'd hate to do that in choppy waters. In fact the ferry does cancel a fair amount of crossings due to rough waters, so if going be prepared for that.

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The harbour on Eigg, waiting for the ferry.

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Our ferry to Mallaig.

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The ferry

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Goodbye Eigg!

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Views from the ferry crossing.

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The ferry we took going from Mallaig to Eigg 5 days before.

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The ferry we took going from Mallaig to Eigg 5 days before.

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We said our goodbyes to the group and Bruce and headed back to Yorkshire. We decided to break our long drive home with an overnight stay at the Travelodge Perth A9. It was a cheap place just to sleep and up early to continue on the drive home. Of course we had to try the beer at a local brewery, so off to Cullach Brewing for some great beer and pizza. Up early and then it was back to my parents in Wetherby for a few days.


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Cullach Brewing for some great beer and pizza

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Back in Wetherby and time for beans

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Waiting on the London train at York



York - Kings Cross

I took the 14:02 train from York to London Kings Cross ($68.24), a 2 hour, 20mins trip.
A cab to Paddington station. I have to say this was the best London taxi ride I have ever had, and put me in an excellent mood. The driver was good, didn't talk much, the windows were open as it was a lovely warm April day and to top it all off, traffic was quite light! Then I caught the Heathrow Express to T5 which was very crowded. After arriving at Heathrow T5 I had a quick walk to the Sofitel Hotel for the night. I really like the location of the hotel, the rooms are not too bad, but the food there is not great. I don't think I've had a decent meal there. I guess I should have headed back into London, but after all the travelling I'd done I just wanted to eat and go to sleep.

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The walk to the Sofitel Hotel, LHR T5

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The room at the Sofitel Hotel

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The bathroom at the Sofitel Hotel

LHR - SEA

Up at 5:30am as I was travelling on only my second First flight on BA. My first First coincided with the onset of the pandemic, and the Concorde Room had closed a few days earlier, as well as First Wing and the spa. So this time I decided to enjoy it and get to the Concorde Room early to have breakfast. Check in was very pleasant, the First security lane was not open as the border forces(?) were on strike. No problem though as the fast track was very quick. And finally into the lounge. There were about 5 people waiting in front of the entrance immediately after the fast track security, and as each one was turned away, I thought I was in the wrong queue and would be sent packing as well. But thankfully was ushered through into the 'famous' Concorde Room. My first impressions were "okay, it is way better than the business lounge". I had breakfast - full English, and a lot of coffee, which was nice and then out onto the balcony area. Here it seemed as if the area was in constant motion, ever so slight, but there non the less. After more coffee (I'm from Seattle, I really like coffee!) I started to feel a little motion sick, so went back into the lounge area to calm my stomach before the flight. Boarding was at B gates, I walked in the tunnel as I find it very peaceful down there, plus it feels good to have a last walk before a 10 hour flight.

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Breakfast in the CCR

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The menu.

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Coffee. A decent cup! I had 3 more before leaving the lounge.

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The nose cone from my seat.

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The walk to the B gates


Boarding was uneventful. and I was shown to my seat - 2K.

BA0053. MODEL G-ZBKS Boeing B787-900
SEAT CONFIGURATION 216 seats
8 First 42 Business 39 Eco+ 127 Economy

For lunch I had the pea soup, lemon and rosemary British Chicken, which was pleasant and then the passion fruit and hazelnut tart, which was okay.

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My seat

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Taxiing

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Todays menu

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Todays menu

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Todays menu

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The lemon and rosemary British Chicken

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Views, almost home

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The Space Needle

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The stadiums in Seattle


The crew were very attentive, and made up for the CW crew I had on the SEA - LHR flight. I enjoyed the flight very much. Good food, a comfy seat and great service. As much as I'd love to travel First all the time, I'm not sure my wife would be happy about the cost!

DISTANCE 7,710km 4,791mi
FLIGHT TIME 9 hours 57 min

Departure 10:08 BST 18min late
Arrival 11:23 PDT 11min early

Arrival. Off the plane around 11:35 and onto the long walk to baggage claim and the dreaded US Immigration officers. The walk was pleasant, and I was waiting for my luggage shortly after.

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The long walk to baggage claim

I'm always amazed how long it takes baggage to come through at Seattle, it may be just me but it seems much longer than other airports. At least we are in more pleasant surroundings than the previous international baggage claim. Eventually my suitcase arrives, and onto immigration. The last time I was there (December 2022), it took me about 10 mins to go through Global Entry, so I decided to time it. I walked up to the photo machine, didn't need to scan my passport, it took a picture of me, and I went up to the officer on duty. He looked at his computer screen, said my name, I said yes, and he said welcome home. It took exactly 7 seconds from walking up to the Global Entry point to leaving the immigration officer. I honestly could not believe how quickly I was through, and was anticipating another officer to call me over, but nope, that one experience was totally worth the Global Entry fee. Tbh, I'm still a little giddy over it!
Now as I was out a bit earlier than anticipated, I let my wife know not to pick me up, but that I'll take an Uber home. The wait was minimal (I'm assuming that the Uber was already waiting at the pick up spot), the ride was uneventful, and I walked into my house exactly 1 hour and 2 minutes after leaving the plane.

Thanks

SKT-DK Jul 21, 2023 9:41 pm

You said you are not a writer, but I would say you have done a pretty good job at it :tu: Looks like a very scenic trip, and your pictures are stunning!

Thanks for sharing!

T8191 Jul 22, 2023 3:22 am

As I had anticipated, some really great photographs.

Well done all round, and thank you.

sushanna1 Jul 22, 2023 6:09 am

Excellent trip report. Thanks for posting.

HLT1904 Jul 22, 2023 7:22 am

Amazing trip report. Photos were phenomenal and your writing was done very well. I really hope this is not your last trip report. Even if you don't want to write, just upload captioned photos. Thank you for taking the time to post it makes me want to return to Northern England and Scotland.

Gardyloo Jul 22, 2023 10:09 am

Remarkable pictures. Well done!

chollie Jul 22, 2023 11:00 am

Wonderful pictures and you are a great writer! Thank you so much for sharing.

canolakid Jul 22, 2023 1:42 pm

Your nature pictures are wonderful- I am sure there is some camera wizardry to the 'mist' look at the stream- I enjoyed looking at them. And thanks for sharing.

1P Jul 22, 2023 1:46 pm

Terrific pix and a great TR! Thank you!

bowdenj Jul 22, 2023 7:24 pm

You take amazing photos. Thanks for taking the time and doing this trip report

mernman Jul 22, 2023 9:31 pm

Thank you for posting such a well written report along with some amazing pictures!

offerendum Jul 23, 2023 2:02 am

Very interesting report.

ianassum Jul 23, 2023 3:12 am

Wow
Many of the photographs of outdoor scapes deserve giant black frames with a white border - excellent!


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