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A Caribbean Escape - at last!
The Sad Background.
It’s been a long time coming. As with so many members of FlyerTalk, the last 16 months has been a mass of cancellations and disruptions to our travel. Since we returned from the Dominican Republic back in March 2020 PUJ 20a we’ve had 7 holidays cancelled. Malta - Washington D.C. - Antigua - Malta - South Africa - Dominican Republic - Phoenix, AZ. That was 53,960 miles of “not happening”, generating an impressive 0 Tier Points (that should be Tear points, I suppose!). Added salt was rubbed in to the wounds by losing some bargain fares, and the novelty (for us) of flying First to both IAD and PHX. Hey-ho, I’m sure I’m not the only one to have suffered, and many will have suffered worse. At least we’re still here, kicking. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...f58d4cb079.png On the positive side [one must keep a positive attitude in times of trouble] dear old Auntie BA provided us with full refunds for everything - Flights, Hotels, Transfers and Car Rentals, thanks to BA Holidays’ policies! Our only “losses” were a £65 credit note (transit hotel near LHR) and a $632 credit note (Vacation rental in USA). Minimal damage in the great order of things! Travelling at last? Persistence eventually paid off! After exploring numerous destinations where we couldn’t go, and having had our intended Sep 20 trip to ANU consigned to the flames in Jul 20, we wasted little time in booking afresh with BA Holidays. In Sep 20 we finally re-booked ANU for Jul 21. This would be a repeat of our trip in 2017, staying at COCOS. A bold decision, some might say, given the state of the Planet and Covid-19 restrictions? Well, it was only a £600 deposit at that stage, fully refundable, with the balance not due until Jun 21. Furthermore, the Antigua Government’s C-19 restrictions and testing procedures seemed to make the trip more manageable than many other destinations. Meanwhile we watched the UK and Jersey Governments’ rules changing endlessly, with “Traffic Lights” going on and off. The Booking … JER-LGW-ANU, 18 Jul - 29 Jul. BA in CE/CW + Private Transfer + 10 days Accommodation (AI) for c. £5600 … hopefully! And so we watched and waited as the months ticked by. And we got our C-19 vaccinations in Jan and Mar 21, prioritised because we’re both “Old and Vulnerable”! But BA kept sending us emails that raised our blood pressure!!
Mr & Mrs T8191, you’re almost ready to fly! Umm, what does that mean? Aeroplanes? Whee! There’s a novelty! Time to swap a 45.6 Sq Mile island for a 108 Sq Mile island! Living it large! And mounting excitement in the household! 27 Jul 21 … PCR C-19 tests at 11:00, emailed Certificates sent at 22:10. (and we collected the stamped hard copies the following morning). 28 Jul 21 … OLCI for Hotel, as they are trying to minimise close contacts with Staff. Request for Mini-Bar content included! 29 Jul 21 … Assorted Travel Declarations duly filed with UK and AG Governments. 30 Jul 21 … OLCI for BA didn’t work - “please check in at the airport”. Taxi booked for 0530 the next morning as usual … oh, how we hate the JER-UK RedEye!! 31 Jul 21 The moment finally arrived … travelling again. Stumbling around at an ungodly hour, we boarded the Taxi for the 15-min run to the Airport, arriving as usual as they unlocked the doors at 0545! We expected a delay at Bag drop, as OLCI said our passports needed checking. Why? It turned out to be the check of our C-19 tests before travel, which went: “Have you had a PCR test?” “Yes.” So that was easy! Our 2 cases duly tagged through to ANU, and us through Security (yes, I got the full secondary inspection as usual!) before getting to the Lounge - now accepting BA status passengers again. One row of armchairs seemed to have been removed for “distancing” purposes, and the F&B now served for the same reason. Which was fine by us. JER-LHR, BA2767, 0710-0810, A319, CE Seats 1D/F https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...8b41c82ac4.jpg Boarding by Rows, apparently … otherwise seeming to be 2 large groups. Whichever, we were the first up the ramp to the aircraft, had space in “our” overhead lockers and settled in for the normal proceedings. Announcements, push-back, safety demo, taxi and take-off … it all seemed refreshingly familiar. Breakfast was a novelty, a petite Ham and Cheese croissant and a Nutri-Grain bar. Am I impressed? https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...5d0dad2407.jpg At 0800 we landed at LHR and proceeded through the Connections system. This was a novelty for us, and involved a lot of walking, culminating in a BP scanner, a very long escalator and emerging at T5 main security lanes. I think that was South Security, leading to the tedious reverse course and change floors before finally reaching the BA FLounge at about 0830. There were a reasonable number of seats available, and tables and dividers were decorated with QR codes to facilitate ordering. That may be of benefit to many, but this old dinosaur didn’t have that ability. Flagging down a passing staff member was an option, but I just masked up and walked the 15 ft to the Bar and asked for some champagne. Simples! Oh, BTW, it appeared it was “Masks Off” if you were seated. The eventual “escape message” showed on the boards at around 1115, with the jolly declaration of Gate A10B. Oh, a nice long walk AND a Bus. Off we pottered, properly masked again, through the random throng in the Shopping Mall to find our way to an unfamiliar location … where we joined our dedicated throng. Numerous Elders, Children and Sheeple lurked locally, until Group One were directed to board the first bus. A scenic tour of obscure roadways and tunnels delivered us to a lonely remote stand at the south end of T5B which appears, according to Google Earth, to be called “541”. Where our great white bird was waiting for us … which was called “G-VII-something”, and was indeed a 777-200ER fitted with Club Suites! LHR-ANU, BA151, 1225-1600, B777, Club Suites 5A/7A https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...1dd8b9641e.jpg Seating assignment was whatever we could get, after the multiple changes to the booking. However, we both had window seats in the mini [3-row] cabin, so we can’t complain. And at 1210, we watched Bus #3 arrive … as it started to pour with rain. An unexpected benefit of being in Group 1. :) https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...0c8f958933.jpg This is clearly proving to be a popular route, as the First cabin was again being used by some lucky Club pax. And, with bedding items stowed, menus and amenity kits distributed, seatbelts fastened and tray tables stowed, we were treated to the manual Safety Demo. Now I’m not sure if this has been fully evaluated in the Club Suites environment, as those on the opposite side of the cabin can barely see the demo over the tops of the suite enclosure. However, we know about “double bow to the side”, “light and whistle to attract attention” etc, but it just seemed a bit … inadequate? What would have been more useful would have been some briefing notes on how the various bits of the new seat worked, because not everyone on board would be regular readers of the BA Forum here on FlyerTalk. Simple guides such as: how the 3-point seatbelt works; where the tray table release catch is hidden; and which invisible black hole in a dimly-lit black cubbyhole takes the headset plugs. Why black on black, for Heaven’s sake? https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...7156f678ee.jpg Enough moaning from me for now … we’re on our way! All the way northwards past all the T5B stands to Taxiway Bravo, at which point we stopped. And stayed stopped. Oh, NOOOO! Eventually Captain Speaking came on the loudspeakers and explained they were trying to rectify a fault with the Potable Water Pump [or something like that] … which happily they succeeded in doing. And at 1300 or thereabouts, we were airborne and heading for the sun. 1330 - Drinks and Nuts. 1415 - Meal https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...ccdfb5ff8.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...50d6876425.jpg The Fish Pie was actually quite tasty and well-filled, topped with elegantly-piped mashed potato.. The remainder was decidedly uninspiring, particularly the little cauliflower floret. However, this is BA’s Business Class catering … what else was I expecting? With that out of the way, I turned to the rather good IFE and reinforced my inner child by discovering what this Harry Potter thing is all about. Several of the genre were loaded, but being a sensible adult I started at the beginning with “Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone”. And I enjoyed it! There’s nothing like a good dose of escapism on a TATL, and I looked forward to watching “… Chamber of Secrets” on the way home. Tea was served at some later time, and an utterly dismal offering that was. Two (yes, just 2) finger sandwiches, the duty Scone w/Jam and Cream, and a piece of Carrot Cake. That’s really rather downmarket, especially at the end of a notional 8-hour flight. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...1e0883afee.jpg |
Welcome to Antigua
Well, almost but not quite, as BA 151 entered the holding pattern to the west of V. C. Bird International. Whaaaat? It was only a short hold, fortunately, but it gave me a chance to admire the weather we had paid a large sum of money to come and enjoy. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...658a30d6d9.jpg The reason became clear once we had landed, as I saw a Delta wide-body taxying out for departure. ANU only has 4 wide-body airbridges, and no doubt our delayed departure from LHR had mangled the arrivals plot at this end. Sadly, the view of the ramp area also seemed to suggest that BA 151 was at the tail end of a bunch of arrivals. And, disembarking by rows from Door 1L, the worst fears were realised … the queue for the Border stretched from the airbridge into the far distance. “Social Distancing” was NOT a feature, and the crowd stood in the narrow passageway … inching forward a couple of feet from time to time. Meanwhile, connecting passengers squeezed past us to make their way to other flights to smaller Islands. Shuffle forward 5 paces. Wait 5 minutes. Shuffle forward 5 paces. Eventually reach stairs down to the Border, where the flow down is being managed for our safety. And we are then directed to a gentleman holding what appears to be a printout of the aircraft manifest … we present our pre-travel PCR Test certificates, he ticks our names against his sheet, and we are allowed to join the next queue for Immigration. That was actually moving quite quickly by now, and before long we had new stamps in our shiny new Jersey passports and crossed the Border … oh, and remembering safely to retain the departure part of the Immigration card. A quick visit to the Duty Free shop in front of us enabled us to buy some insanely cheap cigarettes (Marlboro @ £22/200, vice £100+ here!). Reclaim was semi-instant, once we found which carousel had been rotating our cases for the last hour. And Customs was equally instantaneous. So outside, and across the roadway to where all the taxi and transfer companies operate. St. James Travel and Tours appears to be the BA Holidays preferred provider of transfers, who we found a few yards to the right of the Terminal exit. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...7055389235.jpg A mild shuffle of paperwork as they collected our Transfer vouchers, and we were then delivered to Dale, our driver, and his rather nice silver Range Rover [with left-hand drive]. And away we go for the 30 minute journey to our destination … with the narrow, bumpy, pot-holed roads we recalled from last time. Nice smooth ride, though … thanks, Dale! And finally, after a very long day (something like 18 hours) we are happily back at COCOS Hotel. https://www.cocoshotel.com/index Masks Off at last! Our cases were conveyed up the hill by one of the hotel’s busy buggies, as we were escorted up to Reception to report in person. There our passports ere again scanned, to facilitate the pre-departure C-19 testing (they think of everything here), and after a quick drink we made our way up the hill to Cottage #25 (Sunset View). https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...cdbbb9bbb0.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...0ceaa4230f.jpg We knew it was going to be a stiff climb from our experiences last time, and Reception offered us a Cottage change in a couple of days to one lower down the hill. We were very grateful! #25 on the left, #7 on the right … evidence of Urban Sprawl! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...65f16fa233.jpg We learned to take it in 3 stages! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...1390cdfdf3.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...b10aa7f5c.jpeg We skipped Dinner, and crashed into bed at about 20:00 for a much-needed 10/12 hour sleep! Sunday, 1 Aug 2021 - the Holiday begins! A leisurely breakfast in the dining room was further enhanced by warm and friendly greetings from staff who remembered us from 2017! After which we ‘lounged’ comfortably for a few hours, enjoying the 30º heat, gentle breeze and lovely view. Our View over Valley Church Beach https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...d45ea1ccc8.jpg Guest Lounge https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...b8dbe65413.jpg Part of Dining Areas https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...0c5a591214.jpg And so we settled in to a leisurely routine of Eat, Drink, Beach, Sleep! We moved to Cottage #3 on Monday the 2nd … a seamless process with staff assistance that only took about 30 minutes from start to finish. In addition to a less-demanding hill-climb, the cottage seemed larger. In addition, the terrace was more shaded and had a more interesting view across Jolly Beach. But we also had easy access to Valley Church Beach … yes, there are 2 beaches to enjoy! All Antigua beaches are Public, but generally speaking the hotel’s areas are treated as private, apart from a few Vendors and Tour sellers … and they are not a nuisance. COCOS has a Bar on both beaches, with a generous selection of beverages to help avoid dehydration. And the Pool is close to the Jolly Beach bar! We found the Bali-Beds by the pool a good place to avoid getting sunburned, with just a 50 yard stroll to the warm water off the beach. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...5218a4d28f.jpg Now obviously a daily account of the trip is inappropriate, so I’ll confine myself to a few observations on the specifics of COCOS, and let those who are really interested explore the hotel’s website … which, incidentally, was substantially updated only a couple of weeks ago. Accommodation. Unusual? However, despite appearances, it was spacious and well equipped. The bed was exceptionally comfortable. The private balcony was a boon to we smokers, of course. Public Space. Essentially a roofed expanse of decking through which the breeze [and small birds] flows constantly. Smoking permitted away from the Dining areas. Hand sanitiser dispensers everywhere. Food. A bit of a disappointment, to be frank. We had one meal (Sirloin Steak, Mash and Veggies) which was completely inedible … Steak so tough we couldn’t cut it, and the Veg not al dente but virtually raw. The Duty Manager quizzed us about it the next morning, and clearly had a word or 3 to the Kitchen as matters improved considerably thereafter. Excellent Soups though! Menus are detailed on the hotel’s website >>> https://www.cocoshotel.com/cocos-hot...-and-resources. Beverage. A decent selection of hard liquor, and drinkable House Wines. The “Cocktail du Jour” was an amusing touch, and the Staff seemed capable of turning out most options if that’s your thing. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...5b51e66ed1.jpg Staff. Universally delightful! Cheerful, friendly, helpful … what more could you want? Other Guests. A multi-national mix with ages from mid-20s to <cough> older folks! The Resort is “Adult Couples” only, and thus pretty quiet. Some same-sex couples, and 2 female friends who decided to masquerade as a couple to be able to enjoy staying here! Weather. Typical Caribbean for this time of year. Some clouds, occasional fairly short spells of heavy rain. Bad https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...94ca15428b.jpg Good https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...2082cbaa2c.jpg Getting Dark! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...de5a5e2d8f.jpg Currency. Local currency is East Caribbean Dollars (ECD) if you must, but USD are widely accepted. That’s what we used. Simples! Most cards accepted - I used my Forex-free Starling Bank debit card (MasterCard) for incidentals. WiFi. Internet an unreliable 3 mbps, although the WiFi did reach our accommodation. Wildlife. Biting insects, I regret: mosquito nets on bed essential, as is bug spray and personal deterrent. Mammals - Mongoose, friendly feral cats in Dining Room! Birds numerous everywhere - Terns, Hummingbirds, various small finches. Fish - Ray and some brown ones, no colourful reef nearby. Polite Restaurant Cat, seeking sustenance.https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...a7422032a5.jpg A Fish Called Ray? https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...9050c83461.jpg |
Going Home
10 Aug 21. Preparation for Departure started. It was pouring with rain, and the hotel decided to provide Room Service breakfasts to all Cottages - impressed! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...4e27b33aaf.jpg Despite the rain, the rather unreliable local Internet allowed us to complete the on-line submission of our UK Passenger Locator Forms, the Jersey equivalent and complete BA’s On-Line Check In. Reception also confirmed our Transfer back to the Airport with the company. At 1700 we joined other guests in the Lounge to receive our Lateral Flow C-19 Tests by the excellent and amusing visiting Doctor … all efficiently organised by the hotel, for a fee of $60 each, and the signed, printed result handed to us about 20 minutes later. Very convenient and thoughtful! 11 Aug 21. Check-out time is 1200, which was accomplished easily. Our cases were conveyed to Reception, to await our driver at 1445. And, on time, Dale arrived to take us away to the Airport … where we arrived at about 1515. And then the fun of foreign travel in C-19 kicked in!
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...9245a15bc3.jpg And eventually … Gate 3 is declared. All the way back to where we emerged from Security, and where boarding started almost immediately. Being in Group 1, we were at the front of the pack … Passports checked again, and after self-scanning our BPs (C-19 precaution?) we were #3 and #4 down the airbridge. ANU-LHR, BA150, 1745-0645, B777, Club Suites 5E/F In the Club Suites mini-cabin again, but this time in a middle pair. We could just see [and touch] each other across the divider, but certainly not an intimate arrangement! Again the Safety Demo was barely visible from 5E. A long taxi down the runway to the 07 threshold … where we hold. Captain Speaking eventually comes on to advise that he’s waiting for the Load Sheet to download: is he using the hotel’s internet server? But eventually, we’re up and away and heading home. After the usual round of Drink and Nuts (why are those packets so damned difficult to open?) it was Dinner Time. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...9d64971b5.jpegWe both chose the Prosciutto wrapped Pork Tenderloin, and were very pleased we did. Unusual, IME, to be offered Pork on a BA l/h, but it was a real success. Very tasty and well presented, it was one of the best “mains” we’ve had on BA. The rest was typically unmemorable, of course! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...bb23ed543b.jpg With that hurdle successfully cleared, it was time for me to go Potter-ing again with “… Chamber of Secrets”. Again enjoyed, and inspiring me to book more BA l/h flights to watch the rest of the genre! Then an attempt to get some sleep, with mixed results. Has anyone noticed how harsh/abrasive the new seat material is? Clearly durable, but a bit like lying on coarse sandpaper! Anyway, I clearly did get some sleep, as I was woken up by the CC delivering my Covid-19 BA Breakfast. Oh, dear, it’s the Bacon Roll again! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...22f5d9d268.jpg We landed at 0630 (15m early) and, as is now the norm, were instructed to remain seated “as we will be disembarking by rows”. Which they did … “Rows 1-7”, and I have no idea what happened after that! Through the long corridors of ‘somewhere at LHR’, following the Purple signs to ‘Flight Connections, all Terminals’ including a ride on the little train from T5B to T5A. More escalators and corridors eventually delivered our battered bodies and brains to … T5 Security (South?). Ah, the Sheeple are out in force, totally unprepared and rummaging in their bags to find 100ml bottles etc, and of course not putting their trays away afterwards. This idleness/ignorance brought the conveyor to a complete halt, until I adopted my assertive side and started stacking the empty ones. A loud “Don’t worry, Madam, I’ll put your tray away for you” made me feel better! The circuitous route from there to the FLounge (along, down, along, up) further restored my circulation, and we slumped into a couple of chairs to wait for the next sector. At which point I was loomed over by the not inconsiderable bulk of our own StevieD, who in company with filthymonkey and others was jetting off to Malta. Gosh, it’s been a long time since I’ve seen another FlyerTalk member in the flesh! And we looked out at a wet, grey airport and reinforced our perpetual desire to get away from the English climate! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...1e15e64974.jpg 12 Aug 21 LHR-JER, BA2772, 1205-1310, A319, CE Seats 2A/C The last sector was totally unmemorable. I can remember the long (400 yard) walk to the North end of T5. Apart from that, I only know that we waited at a Gate, boarded by Rows (Group 1 of course), did all the usual stuff and flew to Jersey! It was well over 24 hours since we got up in Antigua, so my ageing brain-cells were running on minimum fuel! Jersey Arrival - Covid-Style. Baggage reclaim was fairly full and, as luck would NOT have it, our bags were almost the last to be delivered. At which point, we joined the tail end of the long Tensa-barrier queue at the end of the Baggage Hall for C-19 screening. Directed to a booth where our status was checked - our emailed QR codes wouldn’t display on our iPads, but our local Social Security number did the trick. Then to a testing booth for a PCR test (we got the email with the negative result at 1940). And finally, after 30 minutes or more, outside to a taxi to home. And collapse!! And that’s it! It was wonderful to finally get away after 18 months. The entire Covid 19 processing at all the Borders was relatively painless, despite the inevitable queues. BA performed adequately, as did the Hotel. Oh, and 360 BAEC Tier Points [hopefully doubled later with their special deal] and many thousand Avios! Would we recommend COCOS? Probably not, TBH. We actually like it, despite the deficiencies - but it is rather expensive for what it delivers. You would have to consider it carefully, from a personal perspective, before deciding. We will certainly go back, or perhaps try the [flatter] sister property down the coast http://www.keyonnabeachresortantigua.com/cottages.html as we do rather like Antigua … and its people. Thanks for reading! Now it’s time to find somewhere we want to go at a sensible price - and that seems to be a major hurdle right now! A repeat of this trip later in the year would now cost double what we originally paid! :) https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...c749edd88d.jpg |
That croissant looks vile. Excited to see you traveling again though!
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Originally Posted by wakesetter93
(Post 33497991)
That croissant looks vile. Excited to see you traveling again though!
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Thank you for your efforts to get us a trip report. I always enjoy yours.
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Nice to see you back travelling again so that we can read your trip report!
BA service looks a lot better than it was over the festive period! |
Originally Posted by nequine
(Post 33498591)
Nice to see you back travelling again so that we can read your trip report!
BA service looks a lot better than it was over the festive period! |
Delightful diversion on a Tuesday afternoon! I loved every bit of your trip.
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It was fun to read your report. Thanks for doing that. It was a long flight for you, but it looks like a nice place.
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Thanks for posting. We are off to Antigua this Friday and this is very useful for our planning and preparation.
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Originally Posted by Tim_T
(Post 33499755)
Thanks for posting. We are off to Antigua this Friday and this is very useful for our planning and preparation.
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Looks like a nice trip, despite the mess leading up to it (and the queues!). I envy you for being able to travel without quarantine nonsense :(
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Originally Posted by SKT-DK
(Post 33500041)
Looks like a nice trip, despite the mess leading up to it (and the queues!). I envy you for being able to travel without quarantine nonsense :(
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Thank you uncle T for this lovely, detailed and funny trip report. You certainly haven’t lost your writing and importing photo skills.😉. I’m also hoping to start changing tear points into tier points soon.
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