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-   -   To The Frontlines Against ISIS (https://www.flyertalk.com/forum/trip-reports/1770167-frontlines-against-isis.html)

chongsss Jun 5, 2016 2:44 am

Thanks DanielW for another great trip report!

I visited Syria in 2009 and sometimes I couldn't help but wonder what had happened to many of the friendly Syrians whom I crossed path with back then.

DanielW Jun 5, 2016 3:05 am


Originally Posted by SgtRyan (Post 26726854)
Mate, what a TR!! Always enjoy reading yours, but this one tops it. Well done. ^ Where to next? North Korea?

Many thanks, SgtRyan:). North Korea is definitely on my list! Next country is a little more conventional though, Georgia.

Originally Posted by stu1985 (Post 26726855)
Wow - what a brilliant TR! Your first hand experience really shines through in the pictures and the vast amount of information you relay. Really enjoyed reading this.

Thank you, stu1985:). Yes, I did quite alot of background research, both before and after, which helped to understand the conflict as well as contributing to the photo’s I was taking.

Originally Posted by rimoabdallah (Post 26726914)
I've said it before and I'll say it again: Nobody writes trip reports quite like Daniel. Screw EK F if you're going to ISIS frontlines. You go!

Thanks, rimoabdallah:). Definitely no EK F for me, I’m not even sure I like champagne:).

Originally Posted by JohnRain (Post 26726938)
Brilliant report with incredible shots, DanielW! ^^
I admire your risk tolerance, you seem to always push the boundaries a little further.

Thank, JohnRain:). Yes, it was definitely a step up from anything I had ever done before.

Originally Posted by PAX_fips (Post 26726953)
This was intense. Speechless.

Yes, it was an intense experience. It has certainly changed my perspective on a few things in life too.

Originally Posted by blueferrari (Post 26727191)
Thank you, Daniel, for these pieces of gem. It was encouraging and heartbreaking at the same time. Reminder of how priceless the peace and the life itself.
I was troubled seeing that letter written in Indonesian. Being Indonesian Muslim myself, I still can not believe and clearly comprehend what's happening to them, the twist of minds to radical faith. The French-written poem is also very sad.
For me, this tops any other TR ever being written in Flyertalk.

Many thanks, blueferrari:). Yes, ISIS seems to be a magnet for some of the world’s undesirables at the moment, and really makes you feel sorry for the poor people of Syria who are suffering the consequences for this. Hopefully some sort of peace and stability returns soon.

Originally Posted by offerendum (Post 26727401)
Again a very special report - thanks for sharing!

Thank you, offerendum:).

Originally Posted by hirohito888 (Post 26727547)
Thanks for the report. Another great read. ISIS is one bizarre (disgusting and repulsive) militant/terrorist group. Nice that you shed light on what they left behind.

Thanks, hirohito888:). Yes, picking through the detritus of ISIS life was quite a surreal experience. Quite different to the rants and atrocities that they like to show.

Originally Posted by Romanianflyer (Post 26727788)
Just an utterly brilliant, beautiful and touching report. With some magnificent pictures too, of course. Thanks a lot for sharing this with us! I have fond memories of a trip to Syria some 8 years ago - I really do hope for the many hospitabls people of good will in the country, things get better soon.

Thank you, Romanianflyer:). You were very lucky to have visited before the civil war. I can only hope too that life for the Syrian people returns to more peaceful times soon.

Originally Posted by hostageofont (Post 26727843)
Your trip reports are always incredible, but you've really outdone yourself this time. Thank you so much for sharing.

Many thanks, hostageofont:). It was an amazing journey to a place that has seen so much oppression, conflict and horror but has incredible resolve to fight and build on their own new found independence.

Originally Posted by NA-Flyer (Post 26727859)
Wow. Nothing could be better ^^

Thank you, NA-Flyer:).

Originally Posted by AndrewE (Post 26727900)
Thank you , what a great read.
it looks like a hole right through the t-55 barrel - an A-10 round ?

Thanks, AndrewE:). I wouldn’t be surprised if it was. I’ve seen a few video’s with A-10’s supporting the Kurdish forces in Syria. I think A-10’s were originally designed to take out Soviet tanks if they rumbled into West Germany, so seems fitting if they are being used to take out ISIS T-55 tanks now.

Originally Posted by Askartus (Post 26727991)
What an intense, interesting and very informative report - thank you!
Let´s all hope, that peace will come to this part of the world as soon as possible!

Cheers, Askartus:). Yes, with the support of the US and other allies, true peace in Rojava is definitely on the horizon.

Originally Posted by callmedtop (Post 26728065)
Without a doubt the best trip report I've had the pleasure of reading on FlyerTalk. Absolutely incredible pictures.

Thank you, callmedtop:). It was a real privilege to be able to visit this part of the world, and capture the amazingly strong but friendly people.

Originally Posted by londonfog (Post 26728138)
Wow! Incredible, amasing... I still hope you will end up writing a book, actually books.!!This trip alone deserves one.

Thanks, londonfog:). Yes, this journey will definitely take up a chapter or two of a book from all my travels!

Originally Posted by stimpy (Post 26728401)
Great report and thank you mainly for showing people going about their daily lives as we all do. Most of your photos match my own memories from traveling around the ME and Central Asia, but in order to do that I have to forget about the awful atrocities that have been going on in Syria and Iraq and just see it as another place in the world, inhabited by our brothers and sisters.

Thank you, stimpy:). Yes the horrible conflict that has befallen Syria has definitely irreparably changed it. Hopefully with time though, peace returns and some of this damage can be reversed.

Originally Posted by lb8001 (Post 26728644)
I always appreciate your TRs and the wonderful photos you always take of the "everyday people" wherever you are. "Everyday" takes on a whole new meaning in this one - but it's great to see the smiles and the resolute gazes amidst all that s happening there. Truly thank you for a view into this area. Travel safely

Many thanks, lb8001:). Yes, it was great to see the more normal aspects of life in Northern Syria, people in markets and in their homes etc., and not just the stuff you see on CNN etc.

Originally Posted by Ber2dca (Post 26728690)
On the one hand that's pretty cool, on the other I always wonder with trips like that what happens if the traveler gets captured. Do soldiers have to risk their lives to save a dude who's there to write a trip report?

Safety was always paramount and we took all possible precautions by coordinating with the security forces and avoiding any unnecessary risk. Jan has taken many people to Rojava and thankfully every trip they have returned safely.

Originally Posted by phranktzi (Post 26728832)
Thank you for sharing!
This is something that the majority of us will never experience. Glad you are back safe.

Thank you, phranktzi:). Yes, hopefully through these photos people can understand the sacrifices that the Syrian people have made and the extreme forces that are against them.

Originally Posted by transportprof (Post 26728862)
Crikey!
It's going to be hard to go back to reading the litanies of luxury found in the majority of FT trip reports after having experienced your Syrian adventure, even indirectly.
Your reportage is in a class by itself. ^

Many thanks, transportprof:). Yes, more conventional travel after this will be a little harder for me to get excited about for a while for me too:).

Originally Posted by Suzzin (Post 26728905)
This is wonderful, thank you so much. Beautiful photos, and I learned a lot!

Thank you, Suzzin:). It was quite a learning experience for me too.

Originally Posted by Lucentis (Post 26728911)
Incredible, fantastic trip report! Thanks for sharing! Surreal world between civil war, death and normal life...good-looking people, smiles and warmth... Your trip report is much more valuable as most of the "regular" newspaper articles or TV reports. Thanks again and travel safely!

Many thanks, Lucentis:). Yes, it was good to focus on the whole story, and not just a few headlines. From the bustling bazaar in Qamishli to the aftermath at Kobani to the liberated city of Al Shaddadah.

Originally Posted by DallasBeyond (Post 26728955)
Wow, amazing TR! The photographs left me speechless.

Cheers, DallasBeyond:). Yes, so much intense and indescribable photos to capture. It was an amazing experience.

Originally Posted by Speedbird84 (Post 26728994)
Truly amazing, DanielW. This is probably the first TR that I've read through in it's entirety instead of just flipping through the pics and skimming. It's one thing to look at news stories, with which one gains a sort of numbness to what is happening there, but to be able to see these towns in their entirety as well as the people who live there is a privilege. Thank you.
Also, I knew Kurdish women were fighting, but didn't realize the extent to which they were. Nice to see the equality.
Unfortunate that it took this long, but hopefully other countries do so as well.

Thank you, Speedbird84:). Yes, it was good to see the human side that is often missing from the horrific headlines. From filling up a car with smuggled fuel to getting some falafel at a local café.
It was great to meet the famous YPJ fighters too, so brave and committed to defending and fighting for their cause.

Originally Posted by spark787 (Post 26729451)
This is by far the best TR I've read, you really should be working for national geographic! Makes you really appreciate living in a first world country where you only worry about gate lice and economy seats.
I'm quite surprised how organized ISIS is with ID cards and organizational rules and structure.
Do you get a pleasant VIP meeting every time you go to a western country now that you have a syrian stamp on your passport?

Thanks, spark787:). Yes, it was surprising for me too how well organized ISIS was. Al-Qaeda is mainly focused on terror whereas ISIS wants to control and govern too.
They didn’t actually stamp my passport:(. I’ve been to several countries since and no issues so far too.

Originally Posted by SFWanderer (Post 26729776)
Thank you for sharing such an amazing report and its adjoining pictorial that both educated and humanized the conflict for me. I got a greater understanding about the factions fighting against ISIS in your TR than from the daily news media. ^

Many thanks, SFWanderer:). It took me a while to understand the various factions, but hopefully have it sorted now. Quite a complicated conflict and perhaps why peace has been a little harder to reach.

Originally Posted by Dieuwer (Post 26729780)
Do you think you will get a call from the US government?

Ha ha:)!! Not yet, but I figured I am already on their radar with my Somalia, Yemen, Afghanistan and Iran trips:D.

Originally Posted by krazykanuck (Post 26729833)
Fascinating pictures!
Well, luckily for DanielW, he lives in Dubai. Not that lack of jurisdiction had probably ever stopped the US government in the past... ;)

Cheers, krazykanuck:). I haven’t seen any suspicious men in black with wearing dark sunglasses and an earpiece yet:D.

Originally Posted by Bretteee (Post 26729888)
Wow. Fascinating. Would love to go to Kurdistan one day.

Thanks, Bretteee :). Yes, definitely recommend going, to the Iraqi part at least.

Originally Posted by peachtea (Post 26729919)
Wow. What an incredible report. This ought to be in print and read by a much larger audience.
I, too, learned more about the recent history of ISIS campaigns from this report than from any news article. Bravo, DanielW, and may your next trip be to safer climes ^

Thank you, peachtea:). Next country is a little more relaxed and less stress:).

Originally Posted by flyingeph12 (Post 26730041)
Wow. What an amazing and stunning report. Hands down the most captivating TR I've read.
agree and was thinking the exact same thing. This should be published.

Many thanks, flyingeph12:). It took a while to compile but this was a very educating and rewarding report to write for me too.

Originally Posted by flyr16 (Post 26730122)
A fascinating report. Excellent fotos, as always. Thank you for posting and providing a small window into that world.

Thanks, flyr16:). Yes, hopefully it gives a good overall view of the lives in Northern Syria at the moment.

Originally Posted by snabbu (Post 26730134)
How on earth could you top this one!

Absolutely breathtaking. I found myself clinch up reading this, I can't imagine what it would have been like actually being there.
Bravo Daniel, bravo.

Thank you, snabbu:). Yes, I was in a totally different frame of mind than if I was somewhere a little more normal. An amazing journey though and one that I am very grateful to have experienced.

Originally Posted by want2fly4less (Post 26730289)
Incredible report with an amazing insight into Syria.
Thanks for writing it.

Cheers, want2fly4less:). It was a trip I definitely will never forget.

Originally Posted by Annalisa12 (Post 26730340)
Thank you for a very interesting and thorough report. Much appreciated the time you took to compile it.

Thanks, Annalisa12:). I had to do quite a bit of research for this, but it was rewarding and very interesting to do.

Originally Posted by 5DMarkIIguy (Post 26730350)
What an amazing journey! Thanks for sharing with us. I feel nervous reading through the TR in my own home. You, sir, are a brave man. ^

Many thanks, 5DMarkIIguy:). Not sure if I am that brave, but a little too adventurous though maybe:)?

Originally Posted by drdestiny (Post 26730398)
amazing amazing TR.
would it be useful or reasonably cautious to hide some interiors (like the map above) from other intelligence agencies or groups?

Thanks, drdestiny:). We asked if it was ok to take photo’s and it was fine. The map was at the beginning of the presentation and is hence ~18 months old/obselete. There are now a lot less red (ISIS) dots and the blue dots (Peshmerga) have advanced further.

Originally Posted by gooselee (Post 26730433)
Incredible TR - beats the heck out of blurry food pics in flying metal tubes.
Thank you for sharing!

Cheers, gooselee:). Yes, airline food can be tasty but Kurdish cheese and honey in the Qamishli bazaar was a real treat too:).

Originally Posted by mad_atta (Post 26730468)
Amazing, sobering, enlightening trip report. Bravo, DanielW!

I'm impressed at your resourcefulness in organising this trip, and also the calibre of people that you got to talk to. You reference needing a media pass - were you there with the intention of writing a journal or publishing the photographs professionally, or was there some other reason (e.g. going as a journalist was the only way to get in)? If the former, I'd love to see the finished product :)

Many thanks, mad_atta:). I have some options for a wider audience but it was primarily a personal trip for me. The KRG has recently tightened up on the Semalka border crossing though after pressure from Turkey.

Originally Posted by AKCuisine (Post 26730499)
Thank you for taking the time to document such a powerful and well written trip report, DanielW. Your photos are stark and stunning.

Thank you, AKCuisine:). Yes, there was so much destruction yet so much else to see and take in.

Originally Posted by TM78 (Post 26730528)
Wow, i'm speechless. Brilliant TR, excellent photos. Thank you for sharing your journey with us. :)

Thanks, TM78:). It is a pleasure to share with everyone here.

Originally Posted by Jaimito Cartero (Post 26730592)
Definitely the best report I've read on FT ever.
Seeing the people first hand, the suffering, and yet still not giving up is an incredible thing. Hopefully the US will continue to help.

Many thanks, Jaimito Cartero:). The relationship between the Syrian-Kurds and the US definitely seems to be getting stronger, and hopefully an alliance that will remain very much long-term.

Originally Posted by chongsss (Post 26730613)
Thanks DanielW for another great trip report!
I visited Syria in 2009 and sometimes I couldn't help but wonder what had happened to many of the friendly Syrians whom I crossed path with back then.

Thank you, chongsss:). You were very lucky to visit when you did. Hopefully some kind of peace returns soon.

DFW_CK Jun 5, 2016 5:52 am

Daniel - another great trip report that makes me a little bit more educated on what is happening in a part of the world I am so detached from. Glad you are back home safely.

CHSDOC Jun 5, 2016 8:49 am

Amazing. Hope you're submitting for a magazine feature.

Depressing view of Obama's foreign policy at work.

Sorry, can't resist. That'll probably get an edit.

PoincianaKings Jun 5, 2016 9:22 am

DanielW, without a doubt this is the best ever TR on flyer talk. Please can we give the man an award of some sort Matthandy and Moomba?

rdrnnr Jun 5, 2016 10:44 am

You have seriously outdone yourself! Phenomenal TR. Absolutely phenomenal. Props!

+1 to this, also (actually including the poster's mention of POTUS' foreign policy, which I have conveniently "redacted")...


Originally Posted by CHSDOC (Post 26731451)
Hope you're submitting for a magazine feature.


Mr. Strong Jun 5, 2016 10:48 am

DanielW, thanks for sharing an insightful, thoughtful and brilliant TR. Appreciate the time and effort that you put into this.

tsastor Jun 5, 2016 11:45 am


Originally Posted by DanielW (Post 26726645)
My trip to Northern Syria and Iraq, walking through the bustling bazaar in Duhok, inspecting a captured ISIS UAV drone in West Kirkuk, avoiding Syrian Regime checkpoints in Qamishli, seeing first-hand the destruction of Kobanî after surviving the onslaught of over 9,000 ISIS militants, looking over into ISIS territory along the frontlines on the Euphrates river and meeting the brave YPG and YPJ fighters leading the battle against ISIS in the recently liberated Al Shaddadah.

Epic. Invaluable to FT legacy.

pvdecastro Jun 5, 2016 12:20 pm

DanielW, amazing, just amazing !

This is by far, the best piece I've seen on FT.

cmustudent Jun 5, 2016 12:39 pm

This was an incredible, informative, and thought-provoking report. Thank you for giving us a window into what life's like in these parts of the world.

Lan44 Jun 5, 2016 1:01 pm


Originally Posted by pvdecastro (Post 26732226)
DanielW, amazing, just amazing !

This is by far, the best piece I've seen on FT.

^^^^^

chelsea2 Jun 5, 2016 2:51 pm

DanielW - your reports are always a must read when I see them pop up on the trip reports forum list - but this is hands down the best trip report I have ever read on FT. Your ability to convey the chaos, courage, despair, hope and humanity of this region through your words and photos is simply unparalleled. Bravo!!!!

our_kid Jun 5, 2016 2:54 pm

Fascinating and riveting read - YPJ so so brave. Your TR brings real perspective on the news we hear on a daily basis.

The Kurds seem so inviting and kind people :)

GLA Jun 5, 2016 3:01 pm

Great TR! It is marvellous to see such friendship and hospitality in such a troubled part of the world. The pictures of the food remind me of my amazing trip to Lebanon in 2002. Wonderful people in that part of the world. I just wish that one day they will all be able to live in peace.

FTN1898 Jun 5, 2016 3:12 pm

Absolutely stupendous. Thank you for such a great TR.


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