Thank you, jazza1971:). The men and ladies of the Kurdish forces have the real 'steel balls':).

I've been lurking here for years now and I registered this account(I forgot the username/email I used 10 years ago when I had a question) just to say how amazing this TR was.

Thank you, tchron, definitely one of most memorable life experiences.

Well, not something for the faint hearted...
With these stamps on the passport, have you been denied a visa or entry somewhere else?

Like other fellows have already said, that's an outstanding TR Daniel, well done! what next now?

Many thanks for sharing

Thanks so much for sharing, particularly all the food shots and some stunning portraits. Although I am aware it is not exactly the same I am left thinking of the film Salt of the Earth and the power of photography to tell a story.

Thank you, flying_blue_white_red:).
Fortunately no problems so far, touch wood. I'm no longer eligible for the US ESTA system though, with my Sudan, Iran visits etc. Off to San Diego early next year so will have to apply for a US visa at the local consulate.
Many thanks, Spymon:). Yes, the portraits were really a highlight for me, very friendly people so didn't mind me taking their photo. Looks like a great documentary too, will definitely have to check it out.

Thank you for the great TR! Haven't traveled quite as much, but interested in venturing to areas like this - once you are in San Diego I would be glad to buy you lunch and some beers in exchange for your insight! I can show you around TJ perhaps :)

A most insightful and enlightening trip report that goes beyond many I've read before (and I tend to spend more time in this FT department than others!) Thanks for sharing your experiences here, which I am sure have opened our eyes and shown us another side to Syria and Kurdistan Iraq which aren't so common in the everyday media reports.

Destruction like this, and trying to imagine the 'before' shot, is almost a shock to the system. Moreover, images like this are something of a rose out of the ashes:

Wouldn't it be neat to compile a hardcover book of the top FT trip reports like this!

Had to re read this one... Still the most amazing report on FT!

Indeed it is. Life comes back to these places though.

Bashiqa (15km East of Mosul - the city was held by Daesh for more than 2 yrs and has been liberated some 6 months ago. It's pretty much 100% destroyed and very few people are back in the city now) a few days ago:

http://fs5.directupload.net/images/170527/rm6yfxvk.jpg

Hey Daniel! By far the greatest travel report on here. How does one go about finding a "guide" and "driver" and "translator" and "guard" to help put together a trip like this? I normally love trip planning but this is the next level. Where do you find people that are trusting to help out with a trip like this?