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Outer Hebrides via BRR
Inspired by Sealink's TR it looks like FT'er also enjoy not flight-only trip reports.
Alas I share some report and pics from my trip to the Outer Hebrides in 2012. Prologue Read the thrillers of Simon Beckett, notably the one called 'Written in Bone' ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/Written-Bon...dp/0553817507/ ) which plays on a fictious island of the Outer Hebrides, of course. Since I am generally not a sun+beach type of tourist and being to the UK since the age of 10, I took that as an inspiration for some holidays out there! Putting on top, I don't like to fly/drive to ONE location/hotel and just return home - just too boo-boring. Preparation After some reading in forums about Scotland and Hebrides I decided that hiking and B+B with some self organized transfer (between islands) would be nice. So, pick what you need and leave other stuff at home - this what I ended up with to leave the door at home! http://s1.directupload.net/images/us...0/h9f9gevc.jpg |
Flying to BRR was: HAM/GLA/BRR. Cannot recall the A/C from HAM to GLA, likely some A319 or so. The blue/black backpack was put into a protective hull and checked, the small 10l was my carry-on. The HAM/GLA leg was just like any other lift - but then..
The leg GLA/BRR is operated by flybe and the gate was.. somewhere. Cannot recall the numbers but I asked back at least twice that I am not entering some no-return area :). Being in an waiting area that would've qualified for taxi-to-city transport aswell I spotted the 'to BRR' announcement - phew. Well, not much different to bussing areas (as I learned in later trips), just no bus. Pick your bags and walk to the plane being an DHC-6 Twin Otter. Enter the plane and look around: http://s7.directupload.net/images/us...0/yvdddirn.jpg Kindly notice the leg room - and the 9/11 door (taken from second last row). Taxi to runway and off we go - literally; half loaded the Otter seems to need like 100m to reach rotate/takeoff speed. Impressive. Weather was pretty good and I was able to take at lease one scenery image: http://s7.directupload.net/images/us...0/twx9udg3.jpg |
In approach to BRR the FP or FO was broadcasting:
"We're now to land on BRR airfield, weather is pretty good. No rain for a change and wind only with gusts up to 20kts so it's unlikely we'll die today". Since the "locals" have been yawning/rolling eyes, this joke isn't really new, but I liked it a bit. Final approach was a bit shaky (crosswind) indeed, but FP did a good job and landed on this unique airfield just fine. You see a lot of water, then the beach pops up and the Otter touches ground without sinking in. Via some 'taxiway' to parking position and unload the SLFs: http://s1.directupload.net/images/us...0/cexas9dt.jpg |
Since it was only some 5km from BRR to my B+B and weather almost fine, I decided to walk this way already. Some looking back to the "airport":
http://s14.directupload.net/images/u...0/nxc9lequ.jpg <from here on, no more airtraffic related pics :) > Many houses are just left behind there and going to ruins http://s7.directupload.net/images/us...0/ocr6seyd.jpg Not really Autobahns there and trees only where the (massive!) wind cannot reach to http://s14.directupload.net/images/u...0/dq5xtbep.jpg More if some like, as said, no more A/C content beyond this point - the returning GLA/HAM was as boring as the HAM/GLA. |
Please post more! These are nice!
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Originally Posted by PAX_fips
(Post 26723317)
If you're driving, always watch out!
http://s1.directupload.net/images/us...1/d24vrdsm.jpg |
Rather with experience.. if some three cars a day are passing by there, that's a lot. ;)
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Weather kicking in.. the hills have some 200m elevation, alas "sky is falling". It went VERY wet for the remains on the way back.
http://s7.directupload.net/images/us...1/us53pct7.jpg If you try to call for help, please be prepared that this box is only accepting phone/credit cards! Didnt try.. http://s7.directupload.net/images/us...1/vbgnphvd.jpg http://s14.directupload.net/images/u...1/i994vz5r.jpg Next stop behind horizont: North America http://s14.directupload.net/images/u...1/5gd9fu64.jpg Had to return to Castlebay from here to catch one of the busses to Vatersay. Two small islands connected by a large dune ( https://goo.gl/maps/iSVpEwttCmH2 ) Western beach http://s1.directupload.net/images/us...1/6dv2sz7l.jpg Eastern one http://s1.directupload.net/images/us...1/egdjkpxy.jpg Eastern again -- crowded place, TWO humans in one spot! http://s14.directupload.net/images/u...1/abhftem5.jpg Actually quite a lot of these dogs, but they usually jumping around all the time http://s1.directupload.net/images/us...1/zhktle2b.jpg Old harbour of Bagh Chornaig http://s14.directupload.net/images/u...1/vau42klj.jpg Causeway back to Barra. The hole in the background provided the stones to build it. http://s14.directupload.net/images/u...1/s3yh53mr.jpg Might be the one providing yesterday's seafood (cod). http://s7.directupload.net/images/us...1/rlzhmc2x.jpg Look back over Vatersay/Uidh http://s14.directupload.net/images/u...1/z3646v3e.jpg Look forward to Castlebay http://s14.directupload.net/images/u...1/gt4ygdal.jpg Total of 6.5h hike for day #4. A rib-eye-steak from those https://www.virtualheb.co.uk/western...and-cattle.jpg for diner made an exhaustive day perfect. |
Originally Posted by PAX_fips
(Post 26727470)
A rib-eye-steak from those
https://www.virtualheb.co.uk/western...and-cattle.jpg for diner made an exhaustive day perfect. |
Tasty monsters :-)
Day #5 - Transfer from Barra to Eriskay/South Uist ( https://goo.gl/maps/xv2mSFMVHfQ2 ) Just wait in front of B+B and stop the bus to take a trip along the western coast from Castlebay to Northbay and ferry starting from peninsula Ardemhor (1.50). To my dismay the day was foggy AND rainy. Bus' anti-fog not working so not seeing much. Ferry "terminal" - the trip for a backpacker was 7.50. http://s1.directupload.net/images/us...1/s63nq7lk.jpg On a sidenote: those red cars (on the ferry, on the right) are postal service. If you're lost, missed the bus or just be exhausted - just wave/talk to them, they're happy to take you back to "civilisation" :D The trip is like 45 minutes and just NO visibility. Thanks to radar we didnt got lost. Just two minutes before arrival the coast of Eriskay was about to see. On Eriskay the bus and postal service is just the same car :cool: So expect a "sightseeing" ride over the island - seeing every postbox and churn around. Also saw a bus where the islanders do their banking, but I dont know (or tried) if you can hitchhike those, too :p - but given their overall friendlyness, I've no doubt that at least when weather goes havoc, they WILL help. Back to the busride, over the causeway that connects Eriskay with South Uist. Really pitty the weather still very bad and no pictures possible. Dropped off in Dalabrog/Daliburgh at the Hotel Borrodale Looking back/landside after a bit of vis is back up there. http://s1.directupload.net/images/us...1/p69doku7.jpg Since outside is sooo bad, let's move here http://s1.directupload.net/images/us...1/zgkoegm6.jpg If you would ask for an Outer Hebrides Whisky - sorry, there's NONE. I've seen a sign on Barra about an investor looking for money to build a destillery, but otherwise nada. Had some scampi dish with chips (inevitable there) and moved to the cozy bed early http://s1.directupload.net/images/us...1/jajzoj87.jpg Note the very limited possibility to open the window (in 1st floor), I'll come back to that later. |
Day #6 - Transfer within South Uist
I was very late with my bookings so I had to change place yet again. On the upside you see and test more places.. Weather is still a mess: http://s7.directupload.net/images/us...1/4svv4qrg.jpg It still impresses me that it rains within fog - not just drizzles, even large drops. Add wind to foggy conditions, they really know how to create weather that soaks you wet everywhere in no time. I had about 6km to transfer and walking that in these conditions wasn't what I was looking for - esp. with the full load "aboard". It's saturday and bus service very limited so I asked for a taxi. Of course those are not just standby next to your place, I think it was one hour til it arrived. Southbound to Polloachara and the Polochar Inn took a while, driving in these conditions isn't actually fun, too. Fare was fair: 6 GBP. Since it was already lunch time, take a seat http://s7.directupload.net/images/us...1/w4zzz742.jpg (soaked coat from me..) Went for a Lasagne - with chips, really. If you find a dish on the hebrides w/o chips, it's dessert. :D Since lack of pictures, more text wall. On the Uists, there's a certain type of found called 'Machair' https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machair where they grow the potatoes for these chips. It's a very unique and awesome taste. Cannot picture the taste and those potatoes are not exported - so you have to go there. Hurry up! Heading up to the room http://s7.directupload.net/images/us...1/xtsx2de9.jpg I had to notice that the rain (the window is seaside) was pushed through by the "breezy" (by islander standards) wind and soaked the floor. Since no other room available, a plethora of bath towels will have to do the job. "Weather will improve soon, no worries!" To warm up, some coffee and a drum of whisky as a recourse helps to study the map for the next hike (the rain will stop, won't it?). Outside for a smoke - well, a bit http://s1.directupload.net/images/us...1/9bu5q7ma.jpg More soaked tourists drop in (literally) and so passes the afternoon with talk. Diner: Crayfish - you guessed it - with chips. I need hiking, this fat input won't be fun otherwise :D And then... out of a sudden, rain stops. http://s1.directupload.net/images/us...1/h9a7g9wx.jpg http://s1.directupload.net/images/us...1/wtuyvtxr.jpg Wind stops, too - SILENCE and wish the clouds a goodbye for the night. http://s14.directupload.net/images/u...1/6wafud9k.jpg http://s14.directupload.net/images/u...1/pd35vx3o.jpg |
Day #7 Transfer to Lochboisdale
Too bad I had no chance to hike on the south coast. Must move again, but it's the last time before returning home. It's sunday - everything closes down. Please dont plan transfers for on a sunday, it's a pain. Weather slightly improving, overcast, windy and no rain but I'd like to avoid carry all my gear over 9km to Lochboisdale ("capital" of South Uist). After a lot of chicken around and helpful phone calls by the landlord there's finally a "taxi" available. Driver was a bit grumpy (my guess: they had to wake him up just for me...) and charged 12 GBP, gave him 15 for gratitude. Same wakeup story for the landlord and at first I was put into something the size and feel of a janitor's storeromm.:confused: But I didn't had time to even unload the bagpack there was a knock on the door and with words of sorry I was walked to a different room "since you're staying several nights". Now that looks better ;) http://s1.directupload.net/images/us...6/h8m9auc7.jpg (even had a bath tub) View - on the right side the ferry pier to Oban http://s14.directupload.net/images/u...6/e8djee69.jpg A short walk around http://s7.directupload.net/images/us...6/v6h3iuc8.jpg http://s1.directupload.net/images/us...6/y8ok6ajp.jpg After all it's still sunday and everything is closed and coming to a stand still. Tomorrow will be an extensive hike so I am not that keen to walk somewhere getting lost and noone around. :eek: Lunchtime anyway so strolling into lobby/bar (picture taken at a later point in time) http://s1.directupload.net/images/us...3/rpnzpknj.jpg And look, everybody is here, place is packed (like 15-20 around the bar alone) and party is on :cool:. I think I had a Chili (yep, with chips) - cannot remember... They dont go out partying on saturday evening, they do that for sunday lunch (and into the evening...) - it was a lot of G+T and whatnot @:-). Day #8 - forced stay inside :rolleyes: Weather goes havoc. Rain "from left" well at over 100km/h. I try a short walk to the tourist-info and a small groceries and already so soaked it's not fun. Quick view from the outside on the hotel looks pretty calm? http://s14.directupload.net/images/u...6/zwlatnu9.jpg Well, no. I had to stop taking this video since I almost lost the camera :eek: Since several new guests come in, I can have at least some talk, sharing experiences -- even with two germans (everywhere..). |
Day #10 - Benbecula, North Uist/Lochmaddy
The rain is gone! The wind not so much, still very strong gusts and I've to change my plans. Replace hike with bus and museum. Trip goes all along west coast of South Uist, over a causeway to Benbecula, along the airport there (BEB/EGPL) which I might use for flyin to my next visit to Outer Hebrides (didn't see the northern part so far). Some more causeways over an awesome area ( https://goo.gl/maps/uznnvKPBZ6A2 ) and east to Lochmaddy. Riding the bus is just that, very bumpy and I was not able to take usable pictures. Some external pictures/info: http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.u...ist/lochmaddy/ I visited the Museum: http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.u...agh/index.html Only takes that haven't been shaken down by gusts http://s14.directupload.net/images/u...6/crh9bdkf.jpg http://s1.directupload.net/images/us...6/ribs64sl.jpg (yes, almost same spot, north view with clouds, south without) Had more luck with a quick video Day #10 will be awesome, doing that and remaining #11/12/13 tomorrow/later. |
Originally Posted by PAX_fips
(Post 26730479)
Tasty monsters :-)
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