A Trip To Sudan
 

My trip to the African country of Sudan. My previous TR's can be found below:

A Trip to Afghanistan
A Journey Through Kyrgyzstan
A Trip Around The Arabian Gulf
A Trip To Yemen
A Trip To Jordan & Israel
A Southern African Adventure
Road Trip to Saudi Arabia & Qatar
Five Days In Japan
Underground In New Zealand
A Trip To Iran
A Trip Around The Mediterranean
A Long Weekend In Paris
A Trip To Ukraine, Belarus & Russia
A Trip To Kenya & Tanzania
Beautiful Thailand
To Muscat For A Travel Magazine
Everest in Full Picture
A Trip To Bali & Dili
A Trip To Northern Iraq
Winter Trip To Europe
Christmas In Mogadishu

Day 0.

Arriving at Terminal 2 at Dubai International Airport (DXB) after work on a Thursday.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Tc.../i-TcvJRJX.jpg

Grabbing a turkey & camembert croissant at an airside café.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Gq.../i-GqbPLbK.jpg

Today's flight was a simple one-way on Flydubai to Khartoum International Airport.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-nj.../i-njXHCJt.gif

Boarding the Flydubai 737-800. Flydubai have 13 flights a week to KRT versus only four on sister company Emirates (EK).
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Fz.../i-FzpCvgk.jpg

Flydubai is a LCC (low cost carrier) with all food & drinks extra. I had pre-ordered a meal of chicken kiev however for 40 AED (~$11).
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Mn.../i-Mn6XVkx.jpg

Disembarking at KRT at ~22:30 local time. KRT is not a particularly busy airport and we were the only flight disembarking on arrival.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-V2.../i-V2ntKjM.jpg

The hotel I was staying at had organised a helper for me, but the process of exchanging my entry permit for a visa on arrival took some time while we waited for the immigration guy to turn up. Next I had my bags x-rayed and they wanted to look at one of my telephoto lenses I had brought. I was worried they might think I was a journalist, but luckily they were ok with it and must have thought it was something else.

Catching a ride to the hotel that they had organised for me.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-jT.../i-jTwtbkk.jpg

Outside the Acropole Hotel. The Acropole is the oldest hotel in Khartoum, founded in 1952 and run by the Pagoulatos family. It is the favoured place to stay for NGO's, UN organizations, journalists (CNN, BBC etc.) and of course tourists.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-XT.../i-XTQRKmZ.jpg

I got to bed just before midnight and had a decent sleep, ready for my first day in Khartoum.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-qC.../i-qCGS478.jpg


Day 1.

The view from the balcony of the hotel early Friday morning. The Islamic weekend so pretty quiet.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-cF.../i-cFLBFjM.jpg

The great breakfast at the Acropole, included in the daily rate.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-p9.../i-p9Hwt6k.jpg

After breakfast I caught up with Mike (centre) along with his brothers Thanasis (left) and George (right) to go through some of things I had planned for my trip. They were very friendly and of great assistance helping me organise everything and can definitely recommend the Acropole Hotel if you come to Khartoum!
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-jD.../i-jD3ZQhW.jpg

With my travel & photo permit and some freshly changed Sudanese pounds, ready to head out and explore some of Khartoum.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Mk.../i-MkXhCL3.jpg

The taxi's in Khartoum were all 1970's bright yellow Toyota's. The hot dry climate, Japanese reliability and a decent mechanic seemed to be key to their long life.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-bC.../i-bC7ZZ6k.jpg

El Gamhuriya Avenue.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Jx.../i-JxsQ6rD.jpg

Omar al-Bashir (centre), the President of Sudan who came to power in 1989 when he led a group of officers in a bloodless military coup. Also currently wanted by the ICC for crimes against humanity related to the Darfur conflict.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-J2.../i-J2HHh6B.jpg

I then walked along Nile Street. Centre is Tuti Island and Khartoum North across the Blue Nile River.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-65.../i-65DZbFp.jpg

A couple of Khartoum locals under the Tuti Island bridge.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-k5.../i-k56LPfh.jpg

First stop of the day, the Sudan National museum, which had some Pharaonic era stone carvings and other ancient antiquities.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-8k.../i-8ksNLB8.jpg

The Statue of King Atlanersa (653 - 643 B.C.).
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-ch.../i-ch3GfPC.jpg

And some Christian frescoes from the pre-Islamic era.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-6q.../i-6qKpSmj.jpg

Some kids cleaning windows at the traffic lights.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-mP.../i-mP8PGQG.jpg

They quickly spotted me and wanted a 'soura' (photo).
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-sF.../i-sFFF67G.jpg

The Corinthia Hotel Khartoum, designed to resemble a ship's sail. It was built and financed by the Libyan government in 2008 and is hence also known by the locals as 'Gaddafi's Egg'.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-p4.../i-p4Wm3K9.jpg

The beautiful atrium from the 14th floor.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Wk.../i-WkdrMxx.jpg

The restaurant on the 16th floor. Unfortunately it was too early to have lunch.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-QV.../i-QV3cmtg.jpg

The Republican Palace Museum, and formerly a church.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-JM.../i-JMfs9xj.jpg

One of the former presidential cars, a Rolls Royce used by the Queen and Prince Charles when visiting Sudan.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Pm.../i-PmMRfTS.jpg

I then walked to Al Shuhada park and bought a glass of sugary Sudanese tea for 2 Sudanese pounds (SDG), or ~25 cents.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-8s.../i-8sPkNLr.jpg

Mural.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-gn.../i-gnTz4Ff.jpg

The Great Mosque (Mesjid al-Kabir).
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-RD.../i-RDb3Hnw.jpg

Corner tea shop.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-vZ.../i-vZCSndc.jpg

Lunch was chicken and turkish bread for 40 SDG (~$4.50).
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-HG.../i-HGzJZTs.jpg

I then went for a wander around the Souk al-Arabi area.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-wx.../i-wxjj3Tb.jpg

Main Street.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-MB.../i-MBVRFx3.jpg

Sponsor.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-5D.../i-5DgfmWq.jpg

White Van.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Br.../i-BrM8Mwb.jpg

Wall.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-PW.../i-PWqXnnG.jpg

Chai.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Wg.../i-WgKWfPF.jpg

Taxi.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Gc.../i-Gcp8gqr.jpg

Radio.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-63.../i-6347Ttm.jpg

Asleep.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-f6.../i-f622zXr.jpg

Mercedes.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-j3.../i-j3N6csJ.jpg

After chilling out back at the Acropole for a while, I then caught a taxi over the Nile to Sita Al Haj Yousef...
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-VM.../i-VMQcQmd.jpg

...to watch some Nuba wrestling.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-vx.../i-vxQVdcb.jpg

Two big guys squaring off.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-2c.../i-2cqDGsw.jpg

Every Friday two teams of wrestlers battle it out in front of several hundred spectators.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-H8.../i-H8VNHZX.jpg

Trying to get the upper hand.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-ww.../i-wwRSqPg.jpg

Pinned down.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Tp.../i-TpFqnL8.jpg

The crowd watching on.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-XJ.../i-XJRHCcJ.jpg

Getting tossed.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Dq.../i-DqsPWHB.jpg

Riled up.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-QW.../i-QWGvP22.jpg

Looking for an opening.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-B3.../i-B3hSpHP.jpg

Thrown to the ground.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-bc.../i-bcCrvQc.jpg

The big comeback!
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-LJ.../i-LJmTBvp.jpg

Everyone was very friendly and was a great way to see what the locals got up too on the weekend.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-p2.../i-p2dHMp3.jpg

Up in the stands.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-kB.../i-kBZwLrJ.jpg

Carrying aloft the victor.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Wc.../i-Wc5fz83.jpg

Cheering on the team.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-ZL.../i-ZLvc3FQ.jpg

Ringside with one of the wrestling teams. They graciously let me sit amongst them to get the previous action shots.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-s3.../i-s3ZDKzq.jpg

Up close and personal.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-x5.../i-x58G66t.jpg

The crowd going wild!!!
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-J5.../i-J5bbsc8.jpg

After a great afternoon watching the wrestling, I caught up with my taxi driver for the trip back to the hotel.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-V6.../i-V64cjcf.jpg

Tasty fish from the Nile for dinner back at the Acropole.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-tc.../i-tcd3ZWG.jpg

Day 2.

Early morning outside the Acropole with the white Landcruiser for the day trip up north.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-39.../i-39JkWN9.jpg

The plan for today was to head north from Khartoum (A) along the main road just east of the Nile, then going offroad to see Musawwarat es-Sufra (B), then onto the ruined ancient city of Naga'a (C), and then back on the main road north to the Pyramids of Meroë(D).
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-97.../i-97mJQbG.jpg

Heading north on the main road at dawn with my driver Awed.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-xG.../i-xGFTCw5.jpg

After 2 hours of driving and several police checkpoints to check my travel & photo permit, we headed offroad in the Landcruiser.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-sF.../i-sFmbwph.jpg

Sheep.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-nx.../i-nxFXM9c.jpg

Some of the black volcanic hills of Meroë.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Gn.../i-GnqPHmw.jpg

At our first stop, Musawwarat es-Sufra.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-xs.../i-xs4BsnX.jpg

Musawwarat es-Sufra is a large Meroitic temple complex dating back to the 3rd century BC.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-v3.../i-v3THNPQ.jpg

There is some debate about the purpose of the buildings, with suggestions including a college, a hospital, and an elephant-training camp.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-jS.../i-jSv9P8N.jpg

The remains of a temple of Apedemak.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-6P.../i-6PCgDPM.jpg

We then headed offroad again across the parched landscape.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-HL.../i-HLN9gzr.jpg

Camels.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-h2.../i-h2hBpst.jpg

The ruined ancient city of Naga'a.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-ch.../i-chmwjwr.jpg

The Temple of Amun at Naga'a.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-3H.../i-3HTFCW2.jpg

Some of the relief carvings.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-k2.../i-k2Dczw7.jpg

The main custodian at Naga'a.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-kz.../i-kztCv3K.jpg

Located to the west of Amun is the temple of Apedemak. Apedemak was a lion-headed warrior god worshipped in Nubia.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-N2.../i-N2JtQSV.jpg

We then drove back to the main road again and drove north for an hour before stopping for lunch.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-4H.../i-4HXpTjp.jpg

Where we had a big plate of fuul, goat, egg and Sudanese bread for 40 SDG (~$4.50).
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Lb.../i-Lb3cDPp.jpg

And some sugary tea (you can see the half-inch of undissolved sugar at the bottom of the glass).
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-82.../i-82hjFFs.jpg

At our final destination, the Pyramids of Meroë.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Zw.../i-ZwdznvV.jpg

The Meroë pyramids were constructed from large blocks of sandstone.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-w5.../i-w5947LK.jpg

The first of the Meroe Pyramids were built about 800 years after the last Egyptian pyramids were completed.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-6W.../i-6WFRKSW.jpg

In the 1800's an Italian explorer, Giuseppe Ferlini, smashed the tops off 40 pyramids in a quest to find treasure.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-x8.../i-x832d64.jpg

The southern cemetery at Begarawiyah.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-rF.../i-rFZsSgC.jpg

And the obligatory camel ride.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-qM.../i-qM6nVHt.jpg

We then headed off for the ~3.5 hour ride south back to Khartoum.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-PS.../i-PSBzrvn.jpg

We got back at about ~6pm, and I went for a wander around night time Khartoum.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-C5.../i-C57bjQT.jpg

Chicken & potatoes for dinner back at the Acropole.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-bP.../i-bPsctRT.jpg

And some delicious dessert to finish.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Cq.../i-Cq5ZJSw.jpg


Day 3.

The view from the balcony at the start of day 3. Much busier than it was on Friday.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-JD.../i-JDbv2p8.jpg

I had run out of Sudanese pounds, so after catching up with my driver I had organised for the day, I got him to take me to exchange some USD at the black market rate (8.5 vs. 6.3 SGD per USD at the official rate).
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Nc.../i-NcCp5GH.jpg

We then headed over the White Nile bridge to the city of Omdurman. The view from the bridge where the White and Blue Nile meet.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-dp.../i-dp7qbsb.jpg

Vegetables, meat and eggs.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Dc.../i-DcZR3C7.jpg

We then drove out to the edge of city...
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-4H.../i-4HVb9HB.jpg

...to the Camel markets.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-3H.../i-3H4szMv.jpg

The main market day was the previous day, but was still plenty to see and photograph.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-kk.../i-kkGLRVR.jpg

A fully grown camel sells for ~9000 SDG (just over $1000).
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-DR.../i-DRPJmg8.jpg

Resting in the shade.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Qw.../i-QwWp22k.jpg

Portrait.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-kd.../i-kd2mLXP.jpg

Unfortunately I didn't bring along enough SDG to buy one.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-PZ.../i-PZVJqHd.jpg

We then drove back into Omdurman to see the Mahdi’s Tomb.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Dx.../i-DxT235K.jpg

Next stop was Souq Omdurman, the largest in Sudan and one of the largest markets in Africa.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-8h.../i-8hSLSxt.jpg

Seamsters.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Vq.../i-VqRDT8w.jpg

Dates.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-BM.../i-BMg5QPF.jpg

The locals were very friendly and were quite fascinated to see a (rare) tourist walking around the markets. This gentleman spoke english very well and we had a good chat.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-xV.../i-xVZNcMV.jpg

Any and all sorts of goods for sale.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Xv.../i-Xv2XmFf.jpg

Limes.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-vG.../i-vG9d93Q.jpg

News.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-xg.../i-xgtFfqt.jpg

The sugary tea started to become addictive.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-pN.../i-pNfkkjm.jpg

Slippers.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-gx.../i-gxSZDmX.jpg

Prayer beads.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-sJ.../i-sJFKzwz.jpg

Perfume.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-dg.../i-dgGpC35.jpg

Shopping.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Pg.../i-PgL2Sc8.jpg

Cane.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-GC.../i-GCmrMjn.jpg

After a great time walking around the Souq, the driver then took me to a nice restaurant beside the Nile.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-9t.../i-9t5Hzrz.jpg

And had some fresh Nile Perch with Sudanese bread, tahine, spicy shatta and fresh watermelon juice for 90 Sudanese pounds (~$11).
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-D8.../i-D8Z4HzN.jpg

Oranges.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-w4.../i-w4bBD2f.jpg

We then drove on to the Omdurman boat builder.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-3B.../i-3B6xzL7.jpg

To see the manufacture of traditional boats.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-3C.../i-3CTZmbK.jpg

Last stop of the day in Khartoum North to see the remains of the Al Shifa Pharmaceutical factory.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-L5.../i-L5NSnmh.jpg

The factory was destroyed in 1998 during Operation Infinite Reach from several Tomahawk cruise missles launched from US Navy warships in the Red Sea.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-7w.../i-7wQx3bx.jpg

The key piece of evidence for the attacks was the apparent discovery of a chemical that could be used to produce VX nerve gas in a single soil sample taken outside the plant during a clandestine CIA operation.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-DX.../i-DX4XpJ3.jpg

American officials later admitted that there was no proof that the plant had been manufacturing or storing VX nerve gas, or had any links to Osama bin Laden.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-TW.../i-TWVpVwQ.jpg

'Shifa' means heal in arabic. The plant produced >50% of the countries medicines, including malaria and TB medication.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-98.../i-98qHBsX.jpg

Millions of dollars in US bank accounts belonging to the factory owner, Salah Idris, were frozen by the US govt after the attack. After he filed a lawsuit in US courts, the US treasury quickly released the funds, implicitly acknowledging that they did not have evidence to justify their actions against him.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-k8.../i-k8ftzNB.jpg

I then headed back to the Acropole hotel, where they graciously let me chill out in my room until the evening with a late check-out.

Going for one last walk through Khartoum before my evening flight back home.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-KV.../i-KVVPxNN.jpg

And went for dinner at the Corinthia Hotel.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-pW.../i-pWkh6PV.jpg

Tasty pizza and banana shake on the 17th floor for 70 SDG (~$8.50).
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-5K.../i-5KMCC37.jpg

At Khartoum International for the 23:25 Flydubai flight back to DXB.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-5L.../i-5LbNbGM.jpg

My passport with two full pages of stamps and stickers.
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-Dc.../i-DcXkrnG.jpg

And about to board the Flydubai 737 at the end of a great trip to Sudan!
http://www.dsw-photo.com/photos/i-NT.../i-NTWHmRZ.jpg

I love your exotic TRs, Daniel! Great photography.

Thank you, iluvdoco:). My first time travelling to a place where I needed a photography permit so was a bit worried. Everything turned out ok though. I did get accosted by a policeman taking a photo of the Acropole Hotel but luckily he soon realised I was just a harmless tourist:).

Amazing as always!

Exotic as always! And again, I would pass....

Another superb report.

How great is your life to be able to jet around so easily?! :)^

Amazing report as always and the amazing photos.

Awesome... good to see George. :) I should have spent an extra day in Sudan, you saw a lot more than I did! Locals indeed were very friendly though and surprised to see a tourist.

Because my great grandfather lived in Sudan for 40 years I always wanted to go for a few days to Khartoum.

But the US State Department have safety warnings advising not to go.

Was it difficult to get a visa etc? Did you feel safe? However if I am correct you are a New Zealander? A nice neutral country.

DanielW, on your travels I'm always curious how you deal with sticking out as the rare tourist/white english speaking guy/etc. Do you ever have to rebuff locals, or are they more often than not friendly and harmless.

I'm about to get started on a TR (need to stay awake a few more hours to try to get back on US time!) where I was in SE Asia and stuck out, to the point that the attention became annoying in one place.

Excellent report, as always. I want to hate you for making me jealous, but I can't bring myself to hate anyone capable of such beautiful reports and photos. :p

krazykanuck , i would love to hear about that trip, because i'm looking at going to SE Asia. I also think your question is very good!

Lovely trip report like always DanielW. You take us to corners of the world that I never would have though looked like they do!

DanielW, did the women not want to go to the wresting match or were they not allowed?

As always, stunning photography and a job well done.