Part IX: Playing tourist in Tashkent, Uzbekistan
 

I had one final day to explore the city before getting back to work, so decided to use it to see Tashkent. I'd read that there wasn't a whole lot to see, but I picked some of the higher rated attractions on TripAdvisor, made a loose plan, and set out on foot to explore. I decided to use the Metro to get around, since my hotel seemed to be halfway between two stations, approximately a 10 minute walk from each.

First, the view of the telecom tower outside my hotel window. This was actually highly rated as something to see, but I ran out of time.

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Walking to the metro, I passed a bit of Gagnam...I mean Optical Style. .Even in Uzbekistan...

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First stop was Amir Timur square. .Remember him from yesterday? .I saw his mausoleum in Samarkand. .He's kinda a big deal in Uzbekistan. .On the square sits the fabulously Soviet Hotel Uzbekistan, a monument to "bigger and plainer is better."

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Right next door was the Congress:

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The rest of the post, and lots of pics, on my blog at this link.

Part X: Tashkent, Uzbekistan to Washington, Dulles on Air Astana and Lufthansa
 

Got to the airport at 9pm for my 11:50pm flight, since I'd been warned by several colleagues that immigration to get out of Tashkent could be nasty. .I tried to check in at the VIP terminal again, .but turns out that's only for those flying on Uzbekistan Airways. .No priority anything for other airlines. .There was no wait to check in, however, but there was probably a 30 minute queue for passport control.

The real nightmare began on the other side. .The person manning the baggage scanner decided I was a good target for harassment, and pulled me and my bags aside for a hand search and grope. .And when I say grope, it made the TSA look like naïve innocents. .Seriously, I'm pretty sure there are people hire "professional escorts" who get less of a grope. .Then, it continued on to a very very detailed baggage inspection, going through every little container I had, squirting a little bit of toothpaste out, looking in prescription jars, etc. .Eventually, I'd had enough and refused to answer any further questions until he called a supervisor over. .The supervisor continued the harassment, but when I told him where I'd been working when there, he finally gave up and sent me on my way.

Not that it was much better - the entire airport is one large waiting area, and again there was a lounge, but the doors were locked. .No access for Air Astana. .Rather bizarre. .I ended up just sitting around for nearly 90 minutes trying to kill time until it was time to board.

Air Astana flight 124
Tashkent, Uzbekistan (TAS) to Astana, Kazakhstan (TSE)
Depart 23:50, Arrive 2:55 next day, Flight Time 3:05
Embraer ERJ-190, Registration P4-KCH, Manufactured 2012, Seat 2A

Water, juice, and sparkling wine were offered during boarding, and the flight appeared to be completely full today. We pushed back pretty much on time, and were airborne shortly. .Despite the late hour and being a regional jet, Air Astana pulled out all the stops and served a full hot meal. .Actually quite impressive...starting with warm nuts and wine!

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This was followed with a full hot meal (and wine refills upon pressing the flight attendant call button):

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Shortly before landing, immigration cards were distributed. .I didn't see any way to to an airside transfer in Astana, but it could be possible. .I didn't require a visa with my passport, so I decided to just clear immigration and check in with Lufthansa. .I found the immigration forms mildly amusing, because watermarked across them in large text was the fact that they were free!

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Immigration took less than five minutes, but checked bagged took over 30 minutes to show up! .Not a big issue though, and went upstairs and checked in with Lufthansa quite easily. .Exit immigration and security were a complete non-event, and once again there was no lounge on the other side. .I've never been to a Lufthansa international destination that didn't have a lounge for business class passengers, so this was rather surprising. .The airport had free, and fast-enough-to-Skype internet, so that was good at least, and helped to pass a bit of time.

The rest of the post is on my blog at this link, complete with meal pics from Lufthansa First

Great report!

I don't usually click through to an outside blog, but you have the right amount of teaser here that it always draws me in...

Thanks! It was just much easier than FT-specific tagging all the pics. Glad to see it didn't detract too much!

For some reason, there is a very strong connection between Uzbekistan and Korea. Lots of Korean investment in the country too!

I stayed in Hotel Uzbekistan for 2 nights. It was actually quite nice, great views. Way more character than a western chain :)

Also flew Air Astana from ALA to TAS, great airline!

Flew TK out of TAS, and there was no lounge either, just a horrible waiting area with 2 Euro coke. They wouldnt even take my toilet paper leftover Uzbek Som.

ps. do they still have 1000 as the highest note, so when you change $100, you end up like this?

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It's because Uncle Joe deported tens of thousands or more Koreans to Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan.

Uncle Joe?

I think he's referring to Stalin:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deporta...e_Soviet_Union

Fascinating trip! Well done.

Fascinating history lesson!

That sure explains those OZ and KE flights to ALA/TAS!

There's actually a Daewoo factory in Uzbekistan... you see tons of the Daweoo Damas minivans all over the Fergana valley

...yup...and this is why we travel! Lots to explore and learn out there!

Absolutely - 1000 is still the largest note, and the going rate is about 2850 to the US Dollar, so...

I'm thinking of going to Uzbek next year, what do you guys reckon would be a reasonable daily budget?

My 8 day guided tour with Advantour was about $120 a day in 2011 including internal flight, and all admissions and transport, stayed at very good hotels too. That should give you an idea, but you can do it much cheaper independently if you use public transport, stay at locally owned hotels, etc... But in the summer it was quite hot, and after a month of travelling in the region independently, the tour was perfect.

The country was full of French, Spanish and Italian tourists when I went in 2011. Very few English speaking tourists, I wonder if thats still the case.