I will spend a month in Paris in November/December in a work/professional capacity. Although I have been to Paris several times (mostly as a tourist), this is my first opportunity for an extended stay. Despite the mostly professional nature of the stay, I will have sufficient time to explore and experience the non-tourist aspects of this wonderful city. Let's start with a couple of questions:

1. Although I intend to walk to my work location on most days (5th arrondissment), I intend to use the Metro often. I know about carnets/tourist specials but wondered if something similar exists for a month long stay. What do the locals use? Pay fares as needed or does a monthly pass exist?

2. I enjoy small jazz venues and, as a (serious) amateur photographer, have a nice collection of performers (natural light, no annoying flash) that I would like to expand. Recommendations appreciated.

3. Major fan of food* and wine. Recommendations of local small restaurants in the Jardin du Luxembourg area would be appreciated. I enjoy going back to favorite spots often and getting to know the owners, staff, etc.

Thanks for your advice and suggestions.

*Just noticed on another thread that November is game season. I really enjoy wild game, especially with a nice red wine (the former because of my rural upbringing).

back when I was doing week+ trips to Paris and surrounds we would have a Carte Orange and get a week long pass for however many regions were needed. I've read here that this has since been replaced by Navigo D�couverte.

Navigo

Suggest you check out the links in post #5 of forementioned thread.

If you're staying in the city (not heading out to CDG or ORY, for instance), then the cheaper plan (Zones 1 & 2 @ €16,80/wk) should suffice.

Definitely nicer than fussing with T tickets, especially if you sometimes put devices in your pockets (e.g. cell phones) that might magnetically erase them.

Thanks. I will check out Navigo.

Admit it - you just posted this message to gloat, didn't you!

One place you want to go near Jardin du Luxembourg is Les Papilles (discussed in other Paris threads) if you can get a reservation:

http://www.lespapillesparis.fr/

If you just want a good Steak Frites (or other similar fare) a good choice is the Boucherie Rouliere at 24, Rue Canettes which is by St. Sulpice, also quite close.

Seattle, glad to hear your time in Paris is approaching. I hope you have found a good apartment.

If you don't take the metro at least twice daily, the pass is not worth it probably. You can calculate that pretty easily, though.

I am a big photography and jazz fan, too. There are a couple of clubs.

- The Lionel Hampton, in a hotel, never been there
- Another one in a boutique hotel close to Place St. Germain, the name of which escapes me right now but it will be easy to find. Nice.
- The Sunset and the Sunrise on Rue Des Lombards, close to Les Halles.
- The Duc des Lombards, directly next to the two above.
- The New Morning in the 10th arrondissement.

Especially those on Rue des Lombards offer the real jazz feeling. Crowded, hot, sometimes smokey, small tables, really good vibes from a knowledgeable audience. You might not know some of the names but just go there and check them out. I didn't know Stefano Di Battista and Emanuele Cisi or Nguyen Le, either, but they sure are great. Sometimes you get to see the big guys like Archie Shepp. The New Morning generally has the bigger names.

The bar at the Hotel du Louvre is a nice jazz bar experience. Very romantic, feels like a movie.

Food:

In the Luxembourg area there is the famous Belgian restaurant Bouillon Racine on Rue Racine. Google it. It's very nice.
Talking about hearty food like game, the Ambassade de l'Auvergne should have something to your liking.
There is also a great fondue restaurant on Rue St. Etienne du Mont . Basically next to the St. Etienne church behind the Pantheon. Not to be mistaken for the big St. Eustache at Les Halles. By the way the church is gorgeous, too and has a nice organ.

In St. Germain itself there is a GREAT pizzeria called Vesuvio. Location description: The church is on one side of the Blvd. St. Germain, the pizza is on the other side at the same level as the church. But when you look over from the church to the other side of the Boulevard all you see is a building with a boutique. This building stands on a sort of island. Vesuvio is behind that building. You will find a mix of locals and tourists and the prices are very reasonable especially for St. Germain. The pizzaiolo is from Napoli and I always went there with my Italian friends for Pizza.

For wonderful Italian food and wine (they have three sommeliers) try the Enoteca in St. Paul (Marais quarter, St. Paul metro). The St. Paul church has a nice Delacroix painting.

I am hungry now. Darn it!

Till

Not smokey anymore

Great suggestion. Vesuvio is one of my favorite spots for pizza. Although since you mention the St. Paul church, I must mention Pizza Momo right next door - 105, Rue St Antoine. I lived on bd Henri IV for several years, and always went to Pizza Momo for my "feu de bois" pizza (wood-fired pizza) "� emporter" (take-away).

Aah, they killed the smoke! Probably better in these rather badly ventilated venues anyway.

Yes, Pizza Momo is also very good. I lived on Rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie for years while I studied there. Miss Paris. Austin has nothing against it, of course. Well, it does have MUCH friendlier people!

Lionel Hampton offers a good selection of concerts... but the atmosphere is terrible (more a business hotel where people prefer chatting than listening to the music).
I can remember here a fifty something executive with a ... very young lady. Suddenly, someone he knew with his wife entered the club and of course the guy could not hide under the chair. It was very funny to see the wife looking at the guy with an embarrassed smile saying who is this young lady?

The Sunset and Sunrise are for true jazz lovers. Tiny club (and generally crowded) with great music. Come at the second set rather than at the first set to let the atmosphere warm up.

The Duc des Lombards is excellent as well. The room is small and the visibilty can be poor from where you are seated.

The New Morning has a much bigger size (but visibility can be bad either). Jazz but also world music tours in the living and cosmopolite 10th arrondissement.

The Bilboquet? It is close to the Bel Ami hotel, but not part of it.
Good music, in an elegant atmosphere (but more for having a late drink than for jazz lovers)

Le Salon du Pantheon
Paris little secret
Upstairs the Cinema du Pantheon
Very nice lounge (decorated by Catherine Deneuve) with terrace, excellent buffet (RSVP)

Cafe de la Nouvelle Mairie
Old style cafe with a trendy clientele (Universal Music headquarters are nearby)

Les Papilles
Nice epicerie fine and bistrot

Brasserie Balzar
Elegant brasserie with traditionnal food (and waiters)

I have not checked this thread for a couple of days. Thanks for all of the information!

Nah, I wouldn't do that.

Thanks for the excellent feedback, Nicolas. The club in St. Germain wasn't the Bilboquet. It was a small hotel kind of like the Lenox but I am pretty sure it wasn't the Lenox. It's on the side of the Place St. Germain, I believe towards St. Michel. Anyway, going through the officiel program under jazz they should have a listing.

Hemingway recommends the potato salad at Brasserie Lipp

I'm very envious of your month in Paris. I keep telling myself that if I lose my job, I'm off to Paris for a month. Really. I'll worry about lining up another job when I get back.

Of course we'll all be expecting a travel blog or at least a trip report posted here on FT.

I love Pizza Momo. In the neighbourhood, I am also a big fan of Pizza San Antiono (rue du Bourg Tibourg): fast service, excellent pizzas.

Vesuvio is great (but really crowded. Some days, no chance to have a seat in less than 45 minutes)

Pizza Positana, rue des Cannettes, is considered as one of the best pizzerias in Paris. I went there with an (Italian) friend, and we were not impressed.

Once, a good friend of mine who worked at that time for the Prime Minister, invited me for lunch... at a pizzeria (Chez Napoli‎ 11 bis, Rue St Placide). It was delicious, with old school service, and the entire Paris diplomatic world was there!!

Another Italian trattoria I love: Le Cherche Midi (22, Rue du Cherche-Midi). The Agnellis have dinner there when in Paris. Basic but delicious Italian cuisine made with great products.