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Purdy Feb 26, 2006 1:30 pm

Peking Duck in Beijing
 
Where is the best place in Beijing to have a Peking Duck meal - and what sort of cost should l be expecting to pay

bariummeal Mar 1, 2006 12:59 pm

Go to the famous one where Chairman Mao used to eat - on the 3rd floor of a building on the main shopping street (street called wangfujiang or something like that). All the hotels will tell you. It is great and I think I paid about $20 for 2 people

PTravel Mar 1, 2006 1:23 pm

You want Quan Judo (my pinyin may be wrong). It's the one Bariummeal referenced, but the one he described is a relatively new branch and not as good as the original.

blahman Mar 3, 2006 7:43 pm

Lucky I had photos from my Beijing Trip of the yellow duck figure back in December 2004 -- turns out we went to "Quan Ju De," although the Peiking Duck was not really that good (I've frequently had better outside of Mainland China).

Maybe it was just us at that time. I think it's supposed to be good but we were disappointed.

Fliar Mar 3, 2006 7:54 pm

I went to Da Dong, thanks to a recommendation on FT - and really enjoyed it. I thought the duck was absolutely excellent. But prepared to wait: up to an hour (it helps to make a reservation but not much).

PTravel Mar 3, 2006 8:28 pm


Originally Posted by blahman
Lucky I had photos from my Beijing Trip of the yellow duck figure back in December 2004 -- turns out we went to "Quan Ju De," although the Peiking Duck was not really that good (I've frequently had better outside of Mainland China).

Maybe it was just us at that time. I think it's supposed to be good but we were disappointed.

Which one did you go to (there are at least two in Beijing). The older one (south of Tian Anmin Square, in kind of a seedy neighborhood) is far better than the newer one, which is in some major shopping district the name of which escapes me at the moment. We've had absolutely spectacular meals, there -- not just the best Peking duck, but the best food I've ever had.

blahman Mar 3, 2006 8:51 pm


Originally Posted by PTravel
Which one did you go to (there are at least two in Beijing).

I cannot remember exactly where, but it was in some alley close to a major shopping area with a big yellow duck. We had to walk upstairs -- on one side was the entrance of restaurant, on the other was the toilet.

I don't think it was near Tianamen.

PTravel Mar 3, 2006 10:10 pm


Originally Posted by blahman
I cannot remember exactly where, but it was in some alley close to a major shopping area with a big yellow duck. We had to walk upstairs -- on one side was the entrance of restaurant, on the other was the toilet.

I don't think it was near Tianamen.

That was the new one. We've eaten there. It's good, but not spectacular.

USAFAN Mar 4, 2006 12:44 pm

You can have Original Peking Duck in Hamburg, it's run by the 'Country of China':


Peking-Enten-Haus
Rentzelstraße 48
Univiertel
Hamburg, Germany 20146
Category: Chinese

At the original Peking-Duck-House at Rentzelstraße the Chinese duck master prepares this exquisite several course meal in the traditional fashion. The stylish interior is decorated with Chinese…
I found this with Google:


Beijing and Peking Duck
One should not leave Beijing without sampling Beijing Duck (also known as Peking Duck). A recommended place is the original Peking Duck house --QUANJUDE KAOYADIAN at 32 Qianmen Xi Dajie, Chongwen District, Beijing, China Phone: 010/6511-2418. AE, MC, DC Meals per person without drinks range from $7 to $15.

This restaurant has served Beijing Duck since 1852 and was founded by the creator of the recipe. Nationalized after the 1949 Communist Revolution, it has opened several branches across Beijing, but the one called Lao Ya or Old Duck, South of Tiananmen Square is the most elaborate.

The feast generally consists of: cold duck tongue, sautéed webs, sliced livers, and gizzards to start; a main course of roast duck, to be dipped in plum sauce and wrapped with spring onion in a thin pancake; and duck soup to finish. However, one can order just the roast duck with pancakes which is a complete meal by itself.

PTravel Mar 4, 2006 2:21 pm


Originally Posted by USAFAN
I found this with Google:


Beijing and Peking Duck
One should not leave Beijing without sampling Beijing Duck (also known as Peking Duck). A recommended place is the original Peking Duck house --QUANJUDE KAOYADIAN at 32 Qianmen Xi Dajie, Chongwen District, Beijing, China Phone: 010/6511-2418. AE, MC, DC Meals per person without drinks range from $7 to $15.

This restaurant has served Beijing Duck since 1852 and was founded by the creator of the recipe. Nationalized after the 1949 Communist Revolution, it has opened several branches across Beijing, but the one called Lao Ya or Old Duck, South of Tiananmen Square is the most elaborate.

The feast generally consists of: cold duck tongue, sautéed webs, sliced livers, and gizzards to start; a main course of roast duck, to be dipped in plum sauce and wrapped with spring onion in a thin pancake; and duck soup to finish. However, one can order just the roast duck with pancakes which is a complete meal by itself.

And that's the right Quan Jude!

I'd recommend passing on the cold duck tongue -- the texture is rather strange to a western pallet. Instead, you might substitute stir-fried duck liver. Hmmmm -- delicious!

Note, too, that there are two grades of duck. The price difference is nominal, so go with the "high quality."

Jamoldo Mar 6, 2006 1:56 pm

Beijing Kao Ya (beijing duck)
 

Originally Posted by PTravel
And that's the right Quan Jude!

I'd recommend passing on the cold duck tongue -- the texture is rather strange to a western pallet. Instead, you might substitute stir-fried duck liver. Hmmmm -- delicious!

Note, too, that there are two grades of duck. The price difference is nominal, so go with the "high quality."

I'm surprised I haven't seen Liqun mentioned here. Lots of locals, and now tourists prefer it to the afore mentioned places. Its tougher to get to since its in a hutong, but the duck is authentic and well worth it. Plus you get to experiece a hutong, a traditional beijing neighborhood while you go to the place. Don't worry because everyone there will know that you are looking for Liqun and there are signs in English that will lead you there... Here's some info. Cheers.

Liqun Roast Duck
Liqun Labyrinth
Beijing ; Beijing duck


11 Beixiangfeng Hutong Chongwen
Hours: 10am-10pm
Tel: 010 6702 5681 (info)

SEAUAKID Mar 6, 2006 2:00 pm

Just returned last week from Beijing. Had Quan Jude original location's Peking Duck. Was not impressed. Came out to $14USD for a half-duck, carved right at your table. Other guests at my hotel said they also had better Peking Duck outside of China. Expect lots of tourists at QuanJude.

rar indeed Mar 14, 2006 4:24 pm


Originally Posted by Fliar
I went to Da Dong, thanks to a recommendation on FT - and really enjoyed it. I thought the duck was absolutely excellent. But prepared to wait: up to an hour (it helps to make a reservation but not much).

Interesting name for a restaurant... :p

Insiderdude Apr 16, 2006 1:02 am

Best peking duck is outside of China, IMO - Hong Kong style where they serve it with crepes - actually my favorite places for it is probably here in Western Canada where there's a large contingent of Hong Kong restaurants - Vancouver BC primarily - with a few in Calgary AB and Toronto ON that make the dish pretty tasty and best VFM.

moondog Apr 16, 2006 5:03 am


Originally Posted by Insiderdude
Best peking duck is outside of China, IMO - Hong Kong style where they serve it with crepes - actually my favorite places for it is probably here in Western Canada where there's a large contingent of Hong Kong restaurants - Vancouver BC primarily - with a few in Calgary AB and Toronto ON that make the dish pretty tasty and best VFM.

i'm not sure that's hk style cuz they use creps here too. however, mushu pork/chicken, when you can find it, does not (a crying shame).

party_boy Apr 16, 2006 5:46 am

Oddly enough the last few times I went to China I've been dissappointed with Peeking duck. I personally think it's too oily and for some reason I just think the ducks in China don't have enough meat on them compared to the ducks in the States, Canada, or HK.

moondog Apr 16, 2006 6:31 am


Originally Posted by party_boy
Oddly enough the last few times I went to China I've been dissappointed with Peeking duck. I personally think it's too oily and for some reason I just think the ducks in China don't have enough meat on them compared to the ducks in the States, Canada, or HK.

To boulster your point, last year I was helping a successful (ABC) HK restauranteer survey the Shanghai market, which entailed ordered pretty much everything on the menu at a variety of restaurants. At Jean Gorges, both the duck and the beef were supposedly from Australia, but my restaurant guy cried foul (no pun intended) because both were vastly inferior (he presented a tangible case) to the products coming through known supply chains.

Back on the subject of duck in BJ, I echo those that have said Quanjude is not worth a visit. Some of the others mentioned here are fine (notably Liqun and Da Dong IME), but I personally like the duck at the Xiaowangfu near the Kerry Centre. While definitely an expat loaded (some cynical folk would term "Americanized") establishment, they do it right. For example, their Lazi Ji (chicken interlaced with extremely hot peppers) is some of the best I've ever experienced, but it consists of (relatively) boneless chicken meat. Many Chinese are disgusted by this idea because bones supposedly add flavor, but if you're like me and can't tell the difference, the boneless product in a clean environment is superior to the traditional variety.

Anyway, I have to admit that I like PF Chang's more than 99.9% of the restaurants in these parts so you should take my opinion with a grain of salt. But, please do me a favor; next time you're in town, try one meal at an authentic place with caged pidgeons and cobras on the front stairs and another at Xiaowangfu and get back to me.

tbear Apr 16, 2006 7:45 am

At the QuanJude locations or at the other restaurants for the matter, is the Peking duck always carved with some meat attached to the skin? Cantonese style is skin only served with crepes, which I prefer.

I remember my first time in Beijing back in the late '80s, our tour took us to eat Peking duck. Don't recall the name of the place (and didn't want to :p) but all day long, the local guide kept building us up for the dinner by telling us to save our appetite. Turned out it was just horrible, just plain awful! One contributing factor was the hoisin sauce they used. It was very low quality (as China was still very poor).

Second time in Beijing at the chinese restaurant in the St. Regis, skin was soggy and not crisp. Another disappointment!

You know, many Chinese don't eat the meat as the process for Peking duck doesn't make the meat ideal for eating. We just tell the wait staff to wrap it all up (meat and bones) so we can use it to make rice soup (jook) at home.

GoingAway Apr 18, 2006 8:23 am


Originally Posted by Jamoldo
I'm surprised I haven't seen Liqun mentioned here. Lots of locals, and now tourists prefer it to the afore mentioned places. Its tougher to get to since its in a hutong, but the duck is authentic and well worth it. Plus you get to experiece a hutong, a traditional beijing neighborhood while you go to the place. Don't worry because everyone there will know that you are looking for Liqun and there are signs in English that will lead you there... Here's some info. Cheers.

Liqun Roast Duck
Liqun Labyrinth
Beijing ; Beijing duck


11 Beixiangfeng Hutong Chongwen
Hours: 10am-10pm
Tel: 010 6702 5681 (info)

We went there during my only visit to Beijing and it was an all around great experience. Food was good, the location was interesting as you say embedded in a hutong (which likely won't be there for much longer). One of those hole in the wall type places you'd never go to unless someone local specifically told you it was okay.

PTravel Apr 18, 2006 4:18 pm


Originally Posted by tbear
At the QuanJude locations or at the other restaurants for the matter, is the Peking duck always carved with some meat attached to the skin? Cantonese style is skin only served with crepes, which I prefer.

The default for gweilos at QuanJude is with skin -- my guess is that avoids a lot of problems. ;) However, if you ask, they'll carve it properly. Also, it's worth spending the extra couple of bucks (it is literally, I think, a couple of bucks) for the "top grade" duck.


I remember my first time in Beijing back in the late '80s, our tour took us to eat Peking duck. Don't recall the name of the place (and didn't want to :p) but all day long, the local guide kept building us up for the dinner by telling us to save our appetite. Turned out it was just horrible, just plain awful! One contributing factor was the hoisin sauce they used. It was very low quality (as China was still very poor).
Ah, I would love to have seen China in the 80s. I didn't start going until 1995.


Second time in Beijing at the chinese restaurant in the St. Regis, skin was soggy and not crisp. Another disappointment!
We were at the St. Regis this past January and ate in the restaurant (I was sick and too tired to go out). The food was okay, but only okay, and clearly cooked to appeal to a western palette.


You know, many Chinese don't eat the meat as the process for Peking duck doesn't make the meat ideal for eating. We just tell the wait staff to wrap it all up (meat and bones) so we can use it to make rice soup (jook) at home.
My wife does that. Ummm, good!

jhm Apr 23, 2006 3:32 pm

Don't go to Quanjude (branches in Qianmen, Wangfujing etc) - it's touristy, expensive and trades on its reputation. Go to the other places mentioned in this thread.

I understand that Beijing duck in Beijing is meant to be fatty! Much more than those of us in the west are used to.

ajk2n123 Apr 25, 2006 1:20 pm

Pass on the Peking Duck in Beijing unless you are a Peking Duck aficionado. I was in China this summer, my first, and I have to admit the food didn't do it for me in Beijing. Shanghai and Hong Kong were great. Don't get me wrong I love trying new things but Beijing was another story. Having said that, I did try the Peking Duck at I believe QuanJude (I don't know the exact way it's spelt so I'm using what other posters have used). I have to totally agree with jhm that they only have the reputation and it is in fact touristy and overpriced. As far as price, I think the English menus they have for non-Chinese are inflated, just my gut feeling.

Skip the duck in Beijing and get yourself to Shanghai or Hong Kong, so much great food! First, do the Great Wall before you leave!

PTravel Apr 25, 2006 1:49 pm


Originally Posted by ajk2n123
Pass on the Peking Duck in Beijing unless you are a Peking Duck aficionado. I was in China this summer, my first, and I have to admit the food didn't do it for me in Beijing. Shanghai and Hong Kong were great. Don't get me wrong I love trying new things but Beijing was another story. Having said that, I did try the Peking Duck at I believe QuanJude (I don't know the exact way it's spelt so I'm using what other posters have used). I have to totally agree with jhm that they only have the reputation and it is in fact touristy and overpriced. As far as price, I think the English menus they have for non-Chinese are inflated, just my gut feeling.

Skip the duck in Beijing and get yourself to Shanghai or Hong Kong, so much great food! First, do the Great Wall before you leave!

Wow. I don't agree with any of this at all. To each his own, I suppose, but I love the duck at Quanjude. Which one did you go to? The new one isn't as good as the original, but I didn't find either expensive. I also don't much care for Shangahinese cuisine -- too bland for me, though I know some excellent Shanghai restaurants in Beijing. Hong Kong is great for Cantonese, but when it comes to the entire spectrum of Chinese cooking, Beijing can't be beat.

bumpme Apr 25, 2006 2:03 pm

It's just Duck in Beijing. It's not Peking Duck in Beijing.

ajk2n123 Apr 25, 2006 3:33 pm

PTravel, perhaps I should have given it a second try. I agree with you about "to each his own" and I hope the original poster takes my comments with a grain of salt. That said, the cost is expensive for Beijing, China in my perspective. I don't know what others paid but what I paid is above average for food in Beijing. I agree with the Shanghainese cuisine, what I meant by great food in Shanghai wasn't particularly geared toward just Chinese. You'll have to recommend me some of your excellent restaurants in Shanghai (perhaps some in Beijing as well), I'd love to go back!

bumpme, it's not just duck the name itself is "Peking Duck," like for example General Tso's Chicken. LOL, bad example since Tso's Chicken is so American. Anyway, the original poster specifically asked about having Pekinig Duck in Beijing so saying Peking Duck in Beijing is correct. You might be trying to comment on the fact that Peking = Beijing. Peking of course stems from Japanese imperialism era.

jhm Apr 25, 2006 4:05 pm


Originally Posted by PTravel
when it comes to the entire spectrum of Chinese cooking, Beijing can't be beat.

I second this. The variety of food in Beijing is amazing and getting even better!

If anyone does go to Quanjude, at least for the Qianmen branch (not sure about the other ones), I think there are different levels. You can get takeout duck from the street window, there's the normal bit downstairs and, I believe, an upstairs section which you get to by going round the side. I understand that the duck does get better the higher you go but I've not eaten other than on the ground floor.

moondog Apr 25, 2006 7:54 pm


Originally Posted by ajk2n123
Peking of course stems from Japanese imperialism era.

you mean british, i think. (the brits used romanizations of cantonese words to describe most/all places in china starting in the mid 1800s iirc..... nanking, chungking, canton, hk, etc)

ptravel: i don't think quanjude is a horrible establishment, but my opinion is that some of the other places mentioned are cheaper, better, and less crowded.

PTravel Apr 26, 2006 8:37 am


Originally Posted by ajk2n123
PTravel, perhaps I should have given it a second try. I agree with you about "to each his own" and I hope the original poster takes my comments with a grain of salt.

Reviewing the thread, I noticed that one poster said he prefered P.F.Changs to virtually any restaurant in China, as well as a restaurant that he described as "Americanized." There is definitely a difference between the way Chinese food has been altered for western palettes in the U.S. and Europe, and the "real thing" served in China. I grew up on the westernized stuff, and found that authentic Chinese cooking is an acquired taste. Now, I can't abide the westernized kind. I don't know if this may be a factor for you.

Quanjude serves two grades of duck. We always order the "superior" -- it's a couple of dollars more but, according to my wife, worth it.


That said, the cost is expensive for Beijing, China in my perspective. I don't know what others paid but what I paid is above average for food in Beijing.
The last time we were there, in January, we paid $40 for two "superior" ducks, some soup, a vegetable dish, a duck-liver dish and a couple of beers.


I agree with the Shanghainese cuisine, what I meant by great food in Shanghai wasn't particularly geared toward just Chinese. You'll have to recommend me some of your excellent restaurants in Shanghai (perhaps some in Beijing as well), I'd love to go back!
To tell the truth, I don't have any favorite restaurants in Shanghai. Well, maybe just one -- I'll get the name from my wife. I find the restaurants in Shanghai tend to be on the pretentious side (well, the whole city is like that -- kind of like a New York attitude in Chinese).

PTravel Apr 26, 2006 8:41 am


Originally Posted by moondog
ptravel: i don't think quanjude is a horrible establishment, but my opinion is that some of the other places mentioned are cheaper, better, and less crowded.

Maybe we'll try the others next time we go. When we lived in LA, we used to go to the Monterey Park branch of Quanjude, so it was natural for us to want to try the original when we got to Beijing. I haven't tried Peking duck anywhere else in Beijing, but had it a number of times in Hong Kong. The HK duck didn't compare to Quanjude's "superior" grade duck. Also, we do instruct the chef to carve the skin separate from the meat -- we think the crispy skin is the best part.

ajk2n123 Apr 26, 2006 8:44 am

moondog, you may be right :o

moondog Apr 26, 2006 6:28 pm

Ptravel: You needn’t be bashful about calling me out (be name) on my PF Chang’s preference. It’s a position, in which I feel no shame upholding. In fact, many friends, both inside and outside of the FT community have attacked me on the point before and I’ve always felt that I’ve been able to mount a solid defense.

You see, I’ve been in China off and on since I was 19 years old. In the early days, I ate lots of Chinese food because that’s all I could afford. While it kept my tummy full, I never felt like it was up to the standards of the Tiki Port in Hyannis, MA where I grew up (2 NW drink certs to anyone else who’s dined there).

In any case, I have logged an awful lot of meals at Chinese restaurants over the years, to the point where I can proclaim to have tried almost everything, even <gasp... and apologies to Bitta, Tiffany, and Annabelle> dog. And, I’ve come to realize over time that I was raised with an American palette, which is going to stick with me throughout my life. Incidentally, and off topic, my attitude towards Japanese food is completely different; those guys (including my wonderful girlfriend) make some pretty neat stuff.

Having gotten all that negativity out of the way, I would be happy to accompany you or anyone else here on a “duck run” next time you are in Beijing. In fact, I can even arrange to get our expenses covered by one of the English magazines in town in exchange for writing an article, which could be pretty interesting, given our divergent tastes.

It looks like I’ll be in Beijing for the majority of this year, save August, so please contact me in advance of your trips and we’ll do this place right.

mesadler Apr 28, 2006 4:11 pm

I'll be in Beijing in late May and again in June and would love to partake in a "duck run" and write an article. PM me for details.

jhm Apr 28, 2006 4:35 pm

I would love to return to Beijing soon - it's a great city. I've been there four times (touristy stuff first time and experiencing life for the other three times). Beijing (duck) Do anyone ? :D

Jet2K Apr 28, 2006 6:38 pm

Two ways to make Peking duck
 
Count me in for a Duck DO, my family of three (13-year old son, wife and me) will be in Beijing in mid June.

Most of my chinese friends told me to expect Peking duck in Beijing to be much more oily and less meaty comparing to those in the states. I would like to try the local Beijing version(s) and find out for myself.

Incidentally, there appears to be (at least) two distinct ways to make Peking duck:

1. The soup filled method, after seasoning, fill the chest cavity with hot broth and seal it before roasting; supposedly lets the meat cook slowly from the inside and outside, resulting in more tender and juicy meat.

2. The air roasting method, after seasoning, roast with the chest cavity seasoned but open and unfilled; supposedly give more roasting flavor to the meat, as well as somewhat more crispy skin.

I have no idea how the ducks I had in the states or Hong Kong are prepared, since I just found out about two methods. I would certainly like to find out how the preparation affects the taste for the ones in Beijing.

PTravel Apr 28, 2006 7:22 pm


Originally Posted by Jet2K
Most of my chinese friends told me to expect Peking duck in Beijing to be much more oily and less meaty comparing to those in the states. I would like to try the local Beijing version(s) and find out for myself.

Yes, but . . .

Peking Duck should not be meaty -- the skin is the best part. And it should be crispy, though not dry.

mmj3 Apr 29, 2006 1:45 pm

I'll be in both Beijing and Hong Kong in July. I was really looking forward to duck in Beijing but now wondering if I should save it for Hong Kong. Does anyone recommend places in Hong Kong? Or heck...I can go in both places and compare. :) Personally...some of the best duck I had was in this chinese place in Atlanta. MAN...it was so amazing. Nashville...not really known for chinese food unfortunately.

johnep1 Apr 29, 2006 2:04 pm

I'll be in PEK May 12-15/16 and would enjoy a duck DO.

Jamoldo Apr 29, 2006 3:47 pm

My advice and I have given it in previous pages in this thread, is to go to Liqun in Beijing. You'll not only have a good meal, but also experience a Hutong, a traditional Beijing neighborhood.

Its Peking Duck, so why not try it when you are in Peking?

moondog May 13, 2006 11:19 pm

duck runs
 
Hello all. To all those that contacted me re duck runs, I apologize if I didn't get back to you. I just returned from a trip to xinjiang and was out of the loop. In any case, if you're coming to town and want to eat duck, just let me know your dates and I will try to join.

Incidentally, a friend's family has been in town for the past few days and we have eaten lots of duck. In particular, we hit Dadong, Xiaowangfu, and Li Kang and might try Liqun tonight if our digestive systems are up for it (one logistical problem with duck runs is that eating duck every day does not make for a happy stomach).

Anyway, all 6 of our critics (even the 2-year old) have ranked Xiaowangfu #1 so far because of the unique preparation style (cooked using applewood chips; skin separated from meat) and the nice pancakes. There has been no clear consensus on Dadong v. Li Kang, but I think Li Kang wins by a hair for the food and Dadong, by a large margin, for the experience.

ac-ua May 14, 2006 11:14 pm

I was in Beijing in April and got invited to Dadong, which I thought was really good (didn't know what the cost was though). Strangely, I've heard the Grand Hyatt in Beijing is supposed to have been voted to have the best duck in Beijing by some magazine. Unfortunately, I didn't get a chance to try it. Maybe next time...


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